Laird Hamilton: PTSD from surfing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- Laird Hamilton contemplates mental observations of surfing, including how expert surfers can read the water and interpret what’s in front of them to understand the weight of what lurks behind them. Hamilton also talks about surfers learning to recover from post-traumatic big-wave syndrome, as there’s nowhere to go mentally but down after surviving a monster wave.
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Episode debuted nationwide in 2018.
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Great questions and he actually lets the guest talk. Great interviewer.
I am 100% PTSD/TBI Disabled Army combat veteran. I liked how he stated that he wouldn't compare his to let's say mine. The symptoms he shared are so common to affliction and I applaud him for sharing that. We tend to see it as not being "man" enough to handle whatever the trauma was.
Many times I have wondered how you guys must feel after coming back from combat. I am sure it is very challenging to say the least. Don't ever think you guys aren't appreciated.
Vietnam Vet here I have an Afgan Vet Bud who surfs and has gone to this Non-Profit amazingsurfadventures.org/programs/operation-surf-4-veterans/
Any high can bring about PTSD. We are not evolved for serious highs, we are only here due to the relative stability of our ancestors. Anything that takes us out of that, be it extreme combat, or shooting drugs into your system, to even riding a wave as this video. It all takes us to an unstable level of arousal. And to live a stable life after you've experienced extremes is hard due to the systems need to equalise. It tries to stabilize in the middle. And the middle of an extreme experience can be miles away from day to day normality. PTSD can affect anyone no matter your main occupation.
saiyaniam Man, I was thinking the same. I believe that is why a lot of Musicians Overdose and Suicide. The Highs of putting on a huge show, all the applause, the alcohol and drugs, ... then the letdowns of getting back to quiet times, getting older... Then Surfers, like in Hawaii during flat spells, how do you stay at peace when you crave intense experiences.
@@saiyaniam yea, I'm a pro cage fighter & I might as well admit that I'm an adrenaline junky. Scott Hall I'm his E60 interview spoke about what you touched on. Great insight
These interviews are fantastic.
Laird is so knowledgeable. I tend to find too many idiots on TH-cam and not enough of this.
One day, working at the surf school that used to be based by the Hanalei Pier, one of our guests went surfing. Loved it, came back and rented a board to go out to the main break. 2 hours later she comes back....first things out of her. mouth..... "I just met Lord Hamilton...he gave me some tips on surfing...' EPIC!!!
What do you think about when you’re riding a wave?
- Nothing. I just ride the wave.
Best possible answer.
Like the ultimate in the moment moment
Excellent interview. The one and only great Laird Hamilton.
Thank you so much, glad you enjoyed it! -AD
I've been in surf 10 feet high and even that was terrifying. Thought I would never come to the surface. Would rather be on a clean glassy 6 footer any day.
Legend. Thanks Laird. Have to be a little different to chase monsters. Respect.
Watched every segment. Very cool listening to Laird. What an animal. Classic.
Smart man, i appreciate him sharing his mind set and difficulties. Some people will never know what it is like, others will find comfort that it is a phenomenon that has as well, that they are not alone and there is nothing abnormal about them.
Thank You Master Laird
Just a surfer knows
And You are in my opinion the best and the beast
First I've heard of PTSD from surfing, makes sense though, crazy..
I have a big career audition tomorrow... there is no human more inspiring than Laird Hamilton... I need his Mojo and courage
Nice description of visualization: Observe it from in it, not from outside it.
Thank you for allowing your guests to talk!!!!!!!
I am a sport motorcyclist and can relate totally to what is saying. Focus
Not thinking meaning using all your senses to perform confidently, relaxed & in control.
He was 54 when this was done. No gray anywhere?
Noey Tindol Just for Men coloring
Noey Tindol that or really good genes. My dad didn’t have grey until his fifties. And didn’t start losing hair until mid sixties, for instance. Ole Laird here is the 1% of the 1%. Some people just age well. But don’t discount him dying his hair.
No one likes looking old.
@Jeff Z being "super active" doesn't affect hair colour. plenty of the best athletes throughout history have had bad hair loss or were bald before 40
Love how Laird describes
The real Aquaman, What a stud. Water Genius. He is always saying something right. Always. !
The ultimate improv.
He could have actually explained a common PTSD issue with near drownings and watersports but basically tells us he gets depressed when the fun is over.
No he’s talking about the reaction your body has after extreme highs. It has nothing to do with the fun being over. It’s the come down after a high stress experience where your body was in fight or flight mode and you’ve used up a lot of your adrenaline. Learn to listen
so well done!! hits the points really well..
WATER READERS🌊💙🙌🏼
Fascinating love you stay safe,Love Ed Vedder too
The surfing GOAT
j jj indeed
Kelly is far and away the goat. Laird is not on his level. It’s not even close.
@@scottjobe you’re funny
@@boogieheads Kelly has paddled into far heavier waves than laird. There's plenty of video evidence of this, perhaps you should educate yourself.
@@boogieheads That doesn't make him the greatest of all time, that makes him a pioneer of big wave surfing. He's not even the greatest big wave surfer of all time at this point. He's a pioneer. But he can be your goat.
Do him and Kelly ever kick it?
Makes totally sense
Study the surf and confyion
Anything to nurture the system.....
are there the full interviwes with no cuts??
34thncrenshaw there is a playlist of all the clips but I don’t know about uncut
If you pay
epic athlete
blast zone...carnage......exploded......ptsd.....self destruct.......let’s go have fun🤪
Lol. With big wave surfing, "inside"" and "too deep" are actually bad things.
His neck is bigger than most mens thighs.
From paddling...base of my neck use to be wider than my head.
laid looks like Zack Efrons Dad
Very well said 👊...Just a heads up I’m following #drjohnaking.I like to read his work on PTS, you might appreciate it as well.I have often found them to be hugely challenging(in a good way).
Mr Hamilton, you've surely heard what great things CBD oil has been doing for our vets!? Everyone has thier own form of PTSD basically!! The absolute best.... the purest CBD (or one of the very purest) that you will everfind is Naturest Nutrients!!!!!!! I did the homework because i have two adult children with severe challenges/disabilities and i didnt want them having second best CBD!!! Listen to the interview about my children on TH-cam, called "Is CBD being suppressed" Natures
PTSD from recreation? I mean, really? Come on.
Lol are you dumb?
@@johnjacob3160 Not as dumb as Laird. Recreation may scare the shit out of you, but it requires repetitive similar trauma to create PTSD....but thanks for the correction, genius
This ain’t recreation!
@@donaldbrough207 Repetitive violent emotional trauma generates PTSD...He may have childhood trauma, but the surfing would not be the cause of PTSD. Stupid to claim it would.
mulhollanddose You actually are fucking dumb. You can get PTSD from so many situations. You can definitely get it from less stressful things than big wave surfing, and its often from only one event. Shut the fuck up. You have no idea what you’re talking about. You can literally look it up right now. It doesn’t “require repetitive similar trauma” you fucking dumbass lmao
Wtf this guy is demented
Surfing PTSD..🤭