You’re WRONG about SUPER STEEL
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มี.ค. 2023
- Is "super steel" worth the extra cost? How does cpm-m4 work at 65hrc? Why some people are wrong on the whole super steel subject...I make a knife in cpm-m4 and find out.
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Website for more info on this subject www.knifesteelnerds.com
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I'm only two minutes in, but my takeaway from this video is gonna be the workbench on wheels. It's brilliant. The thought has just never crossed my mind. I've just moved so while I'm moving tools and equipment into the garage, I'm gonna make one.
I don't have any space to put such a workbench but I immediately wanted one. Such an elegant solution.
My Dad is religious about having wheels (castors) on pretty much everything in the shop and whatever he's using for storage. It's so convenient and makes things a lot simpler at times.
Yeah, if you were moving shops, just wheel it out the door onto a trailer, haul it to the new place, and unload it. Done.
You just made me remember I got 6 spare wheels. Great for my welders
Every machine in my shop is on casters. Its great.
That’s a nice looking blade dude. Good job man. When they turn out like that, you can call yourself a professional knife maker. You do the heat treating everything yourself. Respect
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words 🙏
No,😊 if you sell one you are a professional.
@@Freekniggers no, a person engaged or qualified in a profession is called a professional.
@@adriaandoelman2577 Yes, engaged in a profession, ie making money from it by selling products or services. This is all a bit pedantic though, and I think we all agree that the knife looks great.
The thing you said about hanging a warped knife for 3 years cracked me up! It reminded me of a story my dad told me when I was a kid. He said the matadors used swords made from Toledo steel, and if they hit a bone and bent the tip the matador could hang the sword tip down and it would straiten the bend. I don't have any idea if it's true or not.
That’s so funny. Obviously steel won’t straighten out merely from gravity however it is amazing how powerful words are especially when it’s our parents words.
Lol, if that worked I would be seriously concerned about the quality of Toledo steel.
If gravity can _straighten_ a bend, then gravity can *make* a bend.
You wouldn't be ably to hold the sword out straight without it flopping over -- if that story were true.
Wondering if that originated in some kind of hazing joke amongst matadors, like tell the new guy these blades can straighten themselves and bend it when he´s not looking.
@@nilsschenkel7149 exactly like going to home depot for cement softener or blinker fluid lmao
Your portable workstation on wheels is an awesome idea. I need to make one of those. Good informative video as always.
Just my thoughts! :D
yeeeah i thought that was neat, too
I'm convinced that M4, k390 and magnacut are all the steels we ever really need for carry knives these days. We live in great times as steel nerds.
I'd take Vanadis 4 Extra for my mid size outdoors fixed blade knives and Elmax for my folders. Check the most boxes for me, even though it's the heat treatment and the bevels and edge geometries, that are far more important for me. I just mentioned what works better for me, after trying almost all the well known steels.
If I didn't have the option of a Super steel, I would be perfectly fine, with a handforged Ballbearing steel on my fixed blades. Checks more boxes than them all. Properly done, easily the best steel for mid size outdoors knives.
Cru-wear is also an excellent steel.
👍👍 Great content even if some choose not to learn from it. I worked as an engineer for 24 years and still appreciate those who spend their time trying to help others. I spent 14 years on a gun forum trying to teach people how to build better rifles, reload and just choose higher performance parts instead of buying a name. In most cases it was a complete waste of time but, please continue some of us are interested in learning the ways of others. I looked for months trying to find a Magnacut with heatreat in that 63-64 range that Larrin recommends with no luck. It looks like I'll have to make some in AELb, 3V, cru-wear and MC then send them out for proper heat treat to see what they will really do.
Could I get a link to your gun form so I can read the content?
Havent found a video on this subject as compressive and transparent as this one. What a journey you are on.
Great video as always!
There's a reason why blade sports competitors use steels like M4, and not 420hc, n690co etc.
Do you make commissioned knives?, I'd love to have a custom made by you
Thanks for taking the time to do this. I was also doing the same thing on some wood this past weekend.
Great video, as always brother. I started making knives because of you and almost* all of my knowledge has came from you. You're a great teacher as well man, you should think about doing an in depth knife making course locally as well as online, I think it would really take off, especially now that more folks are getting back into bushcraft and bushcrafting knives/gear. I really want your heat treat protocol for that M4 man, I was just talking to a buddy about M4 two days ago and wether or not I should use that or CPM-3V. I love it man ! Have a great day brother!
My first super steel was cpm3v... before that I was used to 440, d2 and 1095.
The bushcraft community had me thinking that 1095 was one of the best steels. But after going to work with 3v every day... I realized that technology was my friend
Edit: If my favorite knife was magically transformed into a D2 blade; I'd still carry it. But I prefer my supersteels 1,000% :)
D2 is almost just as good as CPMs but at a fraction of the price.
Wins hands down on price vs performance.
@@bowez9 Who cares? You're buying a small amount of steel, the difference in price is negligible. Not everyone is poor
@@Eric-zs6rd almost everyone is poor. Supersteels are irrelevant to 99% of knife users.
@@bowez9 D2 is more brittle by a lot.
@@AldoSchmedack do you want a hammer/pry bar or a knife?
At the factory, where I work, we put the parts we harden between two 200 kg blocks of steel. We also have precision grinding machines to get rid of whatever warp remains after.
Having worked with proper tool steel, I can't tell you just how much harder it is to damage in any way. I once tried to debur a hardened work piece with a diamond file. Took me ten minutes of work on a single corner to have an effect that was even noticeable at all.
Thanks for all your work to produce informative videos - greatly appreciated!
so glad you are back making videos. My knives are much happier when I'm well informed about steels
So glad you're back making videos! I missed your snarky expertise :)
I appreciate the light dry humor on this channel. Glad I'm not the only one who hangs frustrating projects on the wall for a few years.
Great work and thanks for sharing. The music and walk through the woods was classic
Another excellent explanation of knives and steel..and how many elements of knife making have to come together in order to make a great knife. The knife you made Alex seems to tick all the boxes…love how the handle looks as well. Impressive! MikeR.
I... Didn't really hear any explanations about why those steels are worth it. Like, what are the *reasons* the steel is "better"? Why does it retain it's edge better? Is it harder? Why isn't it brittle if so?
Hi brother! Welcome to mud season ! 49 degrees here at OBX, NC. Always enjoy your vids. Stay safe up there.
Great video buddy! People who don’t like super steels just don’t know enough about them or don’t care enough to learn why they’re better.
That looks like a pretty useful knife, I didn't know any knife could do some of the things you showed. Could part of the confusion about steel types not only be due to differently carried out heat treatment, but also that some online stores may claim a different steel just because of them being trending?
I know it's not really on topic of video but I absolutely enjoy your rolling workshop that's probably the coolest rolling double-sided work environment I've ever seen great job
This was a lot of fun, and informative. Love seeing steel really put to the test! Hell, it even survived your montage hahaha! Keep it up!
Great video. Very informative and great music to boot👍🏻
I've wanted to start messing around with some of these higher grade steels, I will need to send the blades out for heat treating but that's just one less headache for me, I certainly cannot afford the setup here. I like the idea of a truly durable blade. Love the handle by the way!
I really like how you are always asking questions and questioning your methodology.
Always love the vids and the information you provide. With any steel the proper heat treatment process brings out the best that steel has to offer. Supersteels are considered super for a reason whether it be those that focus on toughness, edge retention, stainless etc.. and a few that balance these qualities amazingly well and provide high marks in all categories. Such a great time to be into knives with all the options we have available and at different price points as well. Thanks for the great vid and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable
I have ballbearing steel knives, that have very similar performance, with many super steels. Actually, the common user, will never know that it wasn''t a super steel used, because that's how good that steel properly made performs. Makes my CPM 3V blades look inferior. (Better edge retention, better edge stability, easier to sharpen, sharper edge) Only steel I like more, (for medium size fixed blades on outdoor knives) is the Vanadis 4 Extra, which I like more than CPM Cruwear.
As a knife, Content creator, any time people ask me about technical stuff I divert to your channel
Are you saying you're a knife and a content creator?
@@gilbertopadilla3611 lmao. know im a knife, AND CONTENT CREATOR.
lol yeah i should've proofread that. Mainly posting on tikotk, but I'm trying to step up my youtube game.
plus i need the money, just a got anew vehicle, and a p365xMacro
If I was a knife I would do the same thing
Damn i wish i was a knife too
@@jeanladoire4141 I'm glad I'm still a human.
Been everydaying a Spyderco Para 3 in Maxamet for a year and several months. It's just now needing to be stropped. My first experience with super steel has been exemplary.
It's fun to see you making videos again where you make a knife. Great video bro, I really appreciated your perspective. My every-single-day-of-work knife is an old Spyderco Military in M4, probably around 61-62 HRC. It was so much better than all the 58 HRC M390 I'd ever had, and so far I've never changed it out (4 years running). There are better steels available now, like K390 etc, but my M4 is close enough to all the new stuff I haven't changed it yet.
Really cool how you could manipulate hardwoods and cut down a 3 inch thick tree... That takes a functional edge man. Take care Alex.
I think spyderco is one of the few production knife companies that has their heat treatment figured out for the super steels. I own several m390 knives from other companies and one k390 delica. The delica has such better edge holding! I suspect the others are a lot softer HRC.
Yeah, well, so what? My Tenacious with 8Cr13Mov will slice Velveeta cheese all day long!
@@johnharris7353 Haha, whatever floats your boat bro. The tenacious is a great knife. I just wanted to let Alex know I've had a similar experience with M4.
To be honest your Velveeta consumption is a greater worry to me than your usage of a Tenacious 😜
CPM154 is also very good at hrc of 61-62.
@@phasechange5053 I'd believe it.
This video, with your choices of sound clips and editing make it look and feel almost like a Quentin Tarantino movie, or in other words - a fun, bubbly, entertaining masterpiece! Love it! Thank you so much for that! Subscribed!
Well done, I've been watching your videos for a long time and you're getting way more educated
Very interesting findings, and it make so much sense. One day when I am lucky enough to make my own knives one day I will remember your wise words and experiments. Thank you
Pretty slick way to grind the bevels using the work rest at a set angle and sliding the file guide. I am going to have to try that.
Damn! Now I REALLY want an M4 scandi-grind fixie as my go-to bushcraft knife!!! Wow that really is incredible performance. And another great video, thank you.
Quite impressive. And the shape of the blade is, in my opinion, ideal for turning game into meat. It's the size and shape I use for gutting and skinning. There's a second folding knife that's smaller for gutting as well. Thanks for the info!
Good video, very informative. You have definitely progressed as a knife maker.
Ur the dude ! 65 is my hope in what little I do . But I've been using knives since I was 8 or 9.
Bravo again- thanks for the content and the explanation- as always good info.
Hey Man I do like your videos a lot. They make me going in the workshop and try doing some hot knifes just like yours.
Thanks for inspiration and a happy new Year.
May 2024 be the year of finding the the wholy grail of the supersteel that fits all.
Thanks for watching! Happy new year's to you as well👊
Time tested,Tried and true, trial and error method to figure out the cooling plate set up and method ,good stuff mate ,well done ,saved other lots of time ,thank you :)
With all the efort and skills you put into your blades OD55 I was quite expecting to see a few drops of your own blood being the secret to preventing warping. Great to watch a Master Craftsman at work.
This is true love outdoors55 . I think making your own knives is the way to go if possible . No wonder why so many enthusiasts get into making knives . It’s a great hobby imo .
I really do like your videos! Hope there still will be plenty in the future!
Greetings from Germany💚🤘
Great vid and information. I love any steel treated and edge made for its specific use. Best steel I've gotten so far is 50100-b. It must be heat treated right because I haven't broken or wore it down yet. You vids are great and I rewatch many of them. Take Care and Stay Safe.
That's the steel that Ka-Bar uses on their knives. Cold Steel called it Carbon V back in the days, now Ka-Bar, I guess for marketing reasons, calls it "1095 Cro Van" when in reality, that steel has nothing to do with 1095. I like it more than the more simple 1095. Probably has better edge stability, which I really appreciate on a steel! My all time favorite, non Super Steel, is the 52100, or let's call it Ballbearing steel, because that's what made me drop my mouth open, when I witnessed how it performs, on a couple of custom knives I own.
What an incredible steel and video keep it up I love watching you so much 🔥❤️
I have learned more about knifes and sharpening than in all others combined
Impressive knife making. Love the work bench on wheels.
Damn 64 hrc and no chipping. Would love to see how the work on chef knives and see how far they'll go before chipping and breaking. Im nodda fan of stainless but now I'm contemplating buying some aluminum plates.. Keep up the good work. I always look forward to your videos, you rock!
65😬
I wonder how hard it is to get a S grind on a supersteel. I could see it being a great kitchen knife if you’ve got a guy with the skills and equipment to sharpen it.
@@WARnTEAfor a kitchen knife stainless is quite important, so besides aebl/14c28n, magnacut is the only super steel that would make sense. A few makers make kitchen knives from it.
those first two aren't supersteels, just very good ones. The best non-powder steels I think.@@thorwaldjohanson2526
@@WARnTEA Speaking of kitchen knives; have you seen Rahven's HIC/elastic ceramic knives? The channel Cedra and Ada gear did a test on a prototype made out of this material and cut through sisal rope 2350 times (!!!!) before it dulled the knife enough that it didn't easily cut through a sheet of paper. Regular steel would go between 50 to 200 times before doing similar. Super steels like 300 to 500 times or so.
Anyways, it's a type of elastic/flexible ceramic that has the best of both worlds-ceramics very, very high hardness but without the extreme brittleness. You can actually significantly flex these knives without breaking them. They are also super light weight and obviously non oxidizing/rusting.
And unlike with the traditional ceramic knives, you can actually sharpen them fairly easily with diamond.
I was surprised by how relatively inexpensive they were as well. I expected them to charge hundreds of dollars for these knives, but you can get a small pairing knife for around $19 US, and their largest knife around $70 US dollars (I'm quickly guesstimating conversion from CHF to USD).
The only downside is that the shipping is expensive (they are located in Switzerland). But they have free shipping if you spend 100 CHF and over. (For me, the shipping would have been around $43 US, so I just bought as close to 100 CHF as I could).
I wonder if they will ever transition over to other style of knives? They are probably still have significantly less toughness than most steels, but it might be interesting to see a San Mai version-have the core HIC and the 2 outer reinforcing sides, steel.
Either way, sounds like it is amazing for at least kitchen knives now (I'm looking forward to receiving the ones I ordered).
Learned a lot. Thanks!
To help with warping I also don't do any pregrinding other than profiling the knife and do all my grinding after. I wet grind with new ceramic belts and it is not that bad or maybe I am just used to it. Any pregrinding can increase chances of a warp. Love all your vids! P.S. M4 is tough stuff.
That tool bench on wheels is awesome…..love it.
Im right there with you, I just graduated from O1 to AEB-L due to a new kiln, have just put my first handle on and am hand sanding that at the moment, keen to see how it works out, but I must say its a lot harder to work the soft steel, my blades stayed straight but I clamped them, might try your vice method, I had actually considered that before I saw your video but was worried about dropping them on the floor as I put them in the vice...
If you are using AEB-L use Roman Landes heat treat recipe . Cliff Stamps website used to have the recipe but since he passed away the website is no more. It may still be about on one of the knife forums somewhere .
LMFAO at that man in steel meme. So freaking good!
Cutting that sapling in half was bad ass!
That thing is crazy sharp!!!
Nice work with that knife. I like your big workbench thing too.
Impressive thanks for the info
Thanks for the knowledge
Sick! And I agree. Magnecut, m4, cruwear etc
I am 37 and my father has made knives as long as I can remember. I have seen a lot of nice knives but have not wanted any as much as I want that knife... but with a nice brass guard(front quillon only) Very nice job. How Do I Make One?
Great vid man could you do a vid reviewing the spider co resilience?
M4 is one of my favorite steels. I have a big old Benchmade I think contego in cpm M4 and it's super nice. I feel like I've lucked out on most of my knives with heat treatment except for one in s35vn which seems freaking soft! I also have noticed a big difference in s30v in 2 different Spyderco knives. One is awesome and will take a hair whittling sharpening and hold it while the other just doesn't want to get as sharp ever and seems to need attention more often.
I think knifesteelnerds explained the likely reason for this in a collab with another creator if you're interested. Something with carbide structure iirc
Can vouch on the s30v, I have a manix 2 and xl and the xl steel has to be sharpened more often.
I'm only a hobbyist and noticed that problem laying the blank down first as the first problem you have shown, Agree
Wow❤ As for the blade.
Not for the handle, just a maddle of choice but well made .
Can I use cheap oils for the quenching is the major question, Sir I'm subscribed now
Thanks you got my attention now 😂
Thanks
Great video. One thing I don't like about the handle of the knife, there's no hand guard or however that part is called that prevents the palm from slipping onto the blade when the knife is pushed.
It's all well and good if the knife is dry but once it's used in some wet environment and the handle gets slippery, it's just one bad thrust and your fingers can get sliced pretty good.
Still, the blade itself is an awesome piece of fully functional art and the sharpness is pure marvel.
Might want to think about making some bolt on scales for all your test blades. Especially if all your blades are the same pattern. Even aluminum scales would be easier on your hand than the bare tang and you can’t break aluminum, but micarta would probably hold up as well.
yes M4 my favorite steel i use it for my personal hunting knives you might want to try a sand blast finish. It looks really good and you can skip the higher grit sanding 120 grit is the highest i go then sand blast with a cheap harbor freight sand blaster screen some dry sand from your yard and your golden
The topic alone got you a sub! Rock on!
Great stuff. I like the heritage steels. Saw blades and wrenches, springs & files, wagon wheel tyre for wrought, or anchor chain… discs from the farm, old stuff turned into useful tools. The new high tech stuff is super. I like the old. Peace
Hay glad to see you back at it ❤
Can i ask what happens if you dip the super steels in feric acid and stone wash them or just leave them dark to finish? You metioned they are hard to finish, what other finishes will the super steels take ?
I totaly thought you were going to say,after 3 years the warp disappeared, too funny!
Outstanding job young man!
M4 my precious. CPM M4 and Bohler K390 are my absolute favorite steels. Haven't tried any of the steels of the last 5 years to compare them to. As you say, its pretty hard to go back. Also, I think I am going to build a workbench with wheels.... Brilliant idea
I haven't used it yet, so far I've worked on A36 (cheapo practice steel), 1095 and 440c.
I've tried to find some super-alloy blanks, but I can only seem to find them available in large - and very expensive - portions.
Good choice on steel. I haven't had a chance to try it yet but like everything I hear. I would like to compare it to M4 at high hardness.
It's a learning curve to grind those high hardness steels. It also made the reason that course grit sharpening is more effective make sense. I had heard ceramic belts are designed to be ran fast enough to fracture to expose fresh sharp edges. BAD IDEA WITH ULTRA HARD STEEL. At high hardness the ratio of pressure + grit hardness+ pressure. The last one pressure requires some critical thinking since grit sharpness and how much total surface the grit covers. For me this has meant only brand new belts will cut well. It's then really important to be careful not to dull the belt by profiling or anything else that will damage the first sharpe edges of grit. The other thing that can be done is lowering surface area like with a 1" belt or those expensive Blue Actrinox belts from VSM have larger spacing on grit. That last one really impressed me and if memory serves I was able to rough grind about 6 M4 and M2 blades with all but the first one being 66Rc the First was only 64rc but was an 11" Bowie out of nearly 3/8 stock.
Loved this video, because it tempts me to go try some superman vs winter soldier steel, but I have 2 huge deterrents:
1. If I lose a cruwear or maxamet knife I will sink into a deep cripling depression of which I will be on the 5 O’ clock news
2. Some one grabs it real quick to do something stupid like pry and it snaps in half, which is the same result, the 5 O’ clock news, but now I’ve committed manslaughter
Love me some M4 on my folding knives. Spyderco seems to do very well with it and my Benchmades perform very well too. I'm sure there's much performance to gain from careful custom construction and heat treat but in my experience these two manufacturers get enough from M4 steel to warrant its cost.
I do get where some come from though and feel 154CM or AUS-8A is a better choice for lower end or fixed blade knives that will see heavy use.
Recently I got a little EDC knife with 4" Magnacut blade @ 65RC and tested it the way I usually do... processing game. If you ever processed a boar you know how hard they are on knives and I got two of them the other night. Went trough both of them, bone and everything (chest and pelvis) and absolutely no damage to the edge. Some stropping and was back to shaving. Since the knife was small and I couldn't get a good grip and a lever I had to baton trough the pelvis bones.
3V is usually my steel of choice but it doesn't even compare.
I haven't worked with magnacut yet but will at some point. I think they have the heat treat figured out now as it seems some makers we're having issues with it at first. But again I believe that is in the past. Glad to hear some feedback on it under real world use👍
putting guid pins in the 4 corners helps greatly
I've seen hundreds of knives, and that knife is one of the finest...
every bit of this is fantastic. Solid info, rad shop on wheels, and i laughed a bunch. Thanks!
I have a couple high end super steel knives and they're amazing. Maybe they've been hyped too much and expectations were exaggerated. While performance is undeniably better, the difference is not like going from bronze to steel. I'll continue carrying my Spyderco super steel lock blades while making beasts out of more forgiving tool steels because I don't have the tech for those super-specific heat treatments.
I don’t have any experience with custom super steels but I’ve been thoroughly impressed with all the factory knives I have in it . Every steel has its place but I’ll never go back to traditional steels for my hunting knives .
Well said brother very well said indeed 👏🏼👏🏼 have a beautiful day my friend and keep on with the good work 🫵🏻👍🏼
My personal EDC is made from CPM 10V at 65 HRC, full height convex, 18dps secondary, around .01 BTE, and it can whittle antler with no issues.
As you know, it's for me it's great to find some one who takes these great steels to 65 hrc and has gotten comfortable there. Thanks TSL.
That looked like a verry good heat treatment job.
I am from Toronto Canada.I used to work at a company called Deisel Equiptment LTD.
I once made a knife from a broken auger saw blade.
All I did was grind the blade to shape (including the edge)
and put the holes for the rivets (copper)with a torch.
and used the torch to heat the edge brite red and
dropped it in gear grease,made a handle (full tang)
from red oak and someone baught the thing from me for $200.00
and we could`nt dammage it,we tried.And it didnt warp or chip (EVER).
The guy used it for ROOFING,talk about ABUSE,Good job on that knife. 🙂
What you made, looks like MAGIC!! I have a benchmade CPM M4 folder (popular about 7 years ago,),, and honestly,, don't think it's special at all.. It not hard to sharpen (stone, diamond plate, doesn't matter.) doesn't stay sharp whittling away at soft wood.... will give it a chance again and see if my opinion changes.
I heard you say there are better steels out now, but that depends on what you're prioritizing.
I had never previously considered CPM-M4 as a material I'd like in a knife until watching this video and researching CPM-M4.
M4 looks like it's the absolute best knive steel in terms of having both edge retention and toughness. I don't see anything else that even rivals M4 if you prioritize both those attributes.
So, its corrosion resistance is low, and its ease of sharpening is low (on paper). You said that it wasn't particularly tough to sharpen, and with edge retention like that, you'd sharpen less anyway.
I personally don't care all that much about corrosion resistance, at least not when I could have a tough knife with incredible edge retention.
I imagine there are coatings to help with corrosion resistance.
I'm very excited about the CPM-M4. Thank you so much for showcasing it for us!
I'm a retired tool maker, and I made my moose skinner, and camp knife using 01 tool steel, ht to 60rc, and my knightly dagger and machete are made from a 1960s 10ft saw blade from a paper mill. It has a few points less carbon than 01, and I heat blued the back of the machete to temper it back to about 50rc. That blade of yours would give mine a run for it's money, but I wonder how it would handle moose, or grizzly hair, although, it handled everything you threw at it like a champ. That stabbing out a chip made shivers run up my spine, and was amazed that the tip still remained. Every factory made knife I've ever owned needed to be sharpened, every time I use it, and don't hold an edge any better than barbed wire. Your blade is the first I've seen in a long time, that you could call a masterpiece. Thanks for sharing.
I made a blade from M3 HSS, and it's plenty tough and easy to get hair-popping sharp. A strange thing I am still investigating is that I can store it very sharp for a few months, and it loses sharpness. It's stored in dry, stable temperature and humidity, and there are no visible signs of rust or corrosion.
I am here for some advice.
I heat treated my knife, tempered it, hand sanded and polished the blade to a mirror finish. And realise I didn't drill no fooken pin holes for the handle.
It's a file knife and the serrations are still there... Can I just epoxy wood to it? What would you do in this situation?
Btw your videos helped me get a super sharp and durable edge on this knife. Bloody epic.
Been packing a spyderco police 4 k390 and like you were saying it’s hard to go back even after zdp189 hap40 cpm s90v the k390 has just been night and day been over a year sharpened once stropped several times… it’s just amazing
Check out ericasedc for her collab with a custom maker (Levi...). K390 with 65 hrc. Her personal one is at 66.5. Saaa...weet.
@@robertbarnum7541 ya I keep up with her I like her content
Dude I love you work bench going to steel that one
Wow, great video. Very informative
Thank you for the video!
Hope you are looking after yourself.
At one point I was trying to find if I could buy a tungsten carbide knife. Imagine, no more sharpening, just don't drop it.
There are some, but they look like razors, not work knives.
Would it be worth your time to sell the M4 knives at ~$400 each ?
It's kinda a weird business model, huh?
Make a knife that lasts for ever and you never have repeat business..
Make a knife that breaks or dulls easy, and you can "upsell" knife care kit.
I've been pretty happy with both of my m390 blades. That is to say, I've never sharpened either one of them and they're still sharp somehow.
Brilliant Alex just brilliant 👏 if you ever sell knives, I'd love one if your m4 s👌
Good video and info. Love the knife.
Love your content!
Also too many people judge a steel based on the factory edge when the performance can noticeably increase after a few sharpenings for a production knife.
It's pretty simple. The more resistant a knife is to sharpening, the more resistant it is to dulling. If you want a light-duty knife, that you can keep extremely sharp, you want an easier sharpening steel. If you want a knife that will stay reasonably sharp for a long time, you want a harder sharpening steel.
Great job bro I'm interested in knowing what the HRC is on S110V i think you have the same PM2 that i have thank you😊