The quality of your patterns and castings continues to improve Steve. You have your drywall mud slurry dialed in pretty close. If you'd like to further reduce those annoying little boogers and leakers around and in the centers of letters and like features, try doing an initial dip, then take a chip brush and work the slurry in those problem areas, then just dip them again. You can use the chip brush indefinitely if you wash it after use. Those boogers are just trapped air bubbles in the slurry but as you've noticed, there is a thin coating between the pattern and the pocket so the boogers do usually pop off with a rap on a center punch or chisel. Using a kush cup/pouring well the volume of your part is a good strategy, especially for multiple parts in the same flask. When the patterns are position close to one another, you must be quixck on the pour or suffer melted adjacent patterns similar to using hot sand. I've always found more massive objects like you owl to be more challenging than thin/unifrom walled parts as far as avoiduing flaws. Keep up the good work. Best, Kelly
Thanks Kelly. I have been going back and trying to manage the bubbles with a brush. I've started trying to use some low pressure air to pop bubbles and push the mud into some of the trouble spots. I just have to keep more of an eye on them. i've been doing 2 coats. the first coat seems to mostly run off with the soapy water. the second coat almost seems too thick. I've been curious about thicker objects and what kind of size limit there would be. the owl definitely took the metal a lot faster then the rest. Thanks for watching and advise. much appreciated.
@@stevesrt8 Working/lightly scrubbing the wetted surface with a soft bush (not just filling in the bubbles) seems to further reduce surface tension so when you redip, the new material lays down better in those areas. When I have fine pattern details, I submerge that portion, remove it, brush that area leaving coverage as if I was brush coating, then redip the whole part. You can also just initially brush such problem areas, let them dry (or not), and then dip. Drywall mud lacks the flow modification and suspension agents of commercial coatings so when you achieve viscosities that dip well, they may not coat (the very hydrophobic) foam as well. Once the surface becomes even slightly covered, that changes. Using Dawn soapm for surfactent is helpful, but can also tend to foam if too much is used. I suspect you mix the slurry before each use. Try not to do it so agressively that it sucks and entrains air into the slurry. As a practical matter, double dipping with a little brushing simplifies things and allows use of common material. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 Thanks for all the help Kelly. It's been a learning experience for sure. I will have to try the brush and re-dip method. i have had my slurry foam up. it takes a few days to get back to normal after that. I am planning to mix a day or 2 in advance now. Cheers
Thanks for the tour of the operation today Steve ! Roe is really going to be happy when he gets his, detail is super on that one! Have a great week buddy !
They all look amazing. The pencil box is very heart felt. A bit of advice, if I may. Take one of the foam pieces. Put in a bucket of water, mark the level. Remove the foam. Know you know the amount of aluminum you’ll need. That will then help you determine the size of the can for the top. Looking forward to your next post.
Great results Steve, every time i watch your videos, I’m amazed at the capabilities of foam castings. I need to practice with my little CNC and try this! Great work and thanks for sharing!
thanks Joel. Foam is a great method. all kinds of big complex stuff is done this way. engine blocks, electric motor casings. works well for sure. its good fun. im pretty limited by the size of my cnc. trying to get more creative.
lol. yeah the lid. i was wondering if anyone would say something haha. most people have lids with giant holes in them anyways so im not too worrried about that haha. i'm still learning myself. learning from mistakes.
wow brother 😳 Hey they all turned out great I’m with you on this one little bit dirty makes it look really really neat.. I personally really like that look👊🏻👊🏻
hey right on. cool man. I've been subbed to you for a while. i went to your channel and see youve been uploading again. i didnt realize. cheer. i got some watching to do
Thanks Man. I use a hot glue gun for the sprues. it can get too hot and melt the foam so it can be a bit of a pain. cant leave it plugged in too long. i use aleene's tacky glue when doing a lamination.
@@stevesrt8 Buy the lowest melt point hot glue you can and use a high/lo temp glue gun on low setting. Amazon is your friend for both and the check my pattern materials video for the type of glue sticks. The low temp glue and setting won't melt/crater your foam like the the high temp stuff. Also, apply the glue sparingly and swipe/smear joint o make it thin as thin as possible. It will reduce downstream casting flaws. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 ahh. low temp glue. I didn't realize that was a thing. I've been meaning to pick up another gun. Thanks Kelly. I have watched. I picked up some tacky glue based on your recommendation. I'll have to re watch. i don't recall the different glue stick types. Cheers
@@stevesrt8 The tacky glue is great when you need longer work times. Us eit very sparing, smeer the joint between the two parts, weight or bind together for thin joint. Best, Kelly
I see the missing teeth on the blade now. Did you intentionally remove them? All the teeth were still on my blade. The blade won the battle against my fingers.
I was cutting some aluminum on my miter saw and something happened. big bang. scared the crap outta me. those teeth went flying somewhere. i didnt get hurt. just a big fright. thanks for sharing your story. i think i will think of you every time i use my tablesaw now.
man that was a lot of ones to do in a single day, nice! So did you get your venting issue figured out? 6 months or so ago I thought you'd stopped putting it on the back and tried a few other things like that as you were having issues with some filling? Maybe just not as thick coating or ????
yeah.. i think i was going too thick. the first time i tried doing a full coating, it started raining and i think i poured a bit cold. threw me off. full fairly thin coat is the way to go.
@@stevesrt8 i remelted some brass this weekend and did my first copper melt as well. Really need to finish up my open sided lean-to/roofed thing, but the snow got in the way. Want to get a perm spot setup so I don't have to constantly move stuff around ever time I melt.
@@ChatterontheWire copper! nice man. that's awesome. its a lot of gear to store and move for sure. i wish i had the space to have a permanent set up. that would be sweet. wheels on things help. i may add some to my flasks. those 30 pound gas bottles get pretty heavy when full of sand
it is rigid foam insulation. most hardware stores will carry it. different brands have different colors but its all pretty much the same. extruded polystyrene foam
The quality of your patterns and castings continues to improve Steve. You have your drywall mud slurry dialed in pretty close. If you'd like to further reduce those annoying little boogers and leakers around and in the centers of letters and like features, try doing an initial dip, then take a chip brush and work the slurry in those problem areas, then just dip them again. You can use the chip brush indefinitely if you wash it after use. Those boogers are just trapped air bubbles in the slurry but as you've noticed, there is a thin coating between the pattern and the pocket so the boogers do usually pop off with a rap on a center punch or chisel. Using a kush cup/pouring well the volume of your part is a good strategy, especially for multiple parts in the same flask. When the patterns are position close to one another, you must be quixck on the pour or suffer melted adjacent patterns similar to using hot sand. I've always found more massive objects like you owl to be more challenging than thin/unifrom walled parts as far as avoiduing flaws. Keep up the good work. Best, Kelly
Thanks Kelly. I have been going back and trying to manage the bubbles with a brush. I've started trying to use some low pressure air to pop bubbles and push the mud into some of the trouble spots. I just have to keep more of an eye on them. i've been doing 2 coats. the first coat seems to mostly run off with the soapy water. the second coat almost seems too thick. I've been curious about thicker objects and what kind of size limit there would be. the owl definitely took the metal a lot faster then the rest. Thanks for watching and advise. much appreciated.
@@stevesrt8 Working/lightly scrubbing the wetted surface with a soft bush (not just filling in the bubbles) seems to further reduce surface tension so when you redip, the new material lays down better in those areas. When I have fine pattern details, I submerge that portion, remove it, brush that area leaving coverage as if I was brush coating, then redip the whole part. You can also just initially brush such problem areas, let them dry (or not), and then dip. Drywall mud lacks the flow modification and suspension agents of commercial coatings so when you achieve viscosities that dip well, they may not coat (the very hydrophobic) foam as well. Once the surface becomes even slightly covered, that changes. Using Dawn soapm for surfactent is helpful, but can also tend to foam if too much is used. I suspect you mix the slurry before each use. Try not to do it so agressively that it sucks and entrains air into the slurry. As a practical matter, double dipping with a little brushing simplifies things and allows use of common material. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 Thanks for all the help Kelly. It's been a learning experience for sure. I will have to try the brush and re-dip method. i have had my slurry foam up. it takes a few days to get back to normal after that. I am planning to mix a day or 2 in advance now. Cheers
Thanks for the tour of the operation today Steve ! Roe is really going to be happy when he gets his, detail is super on that one! Have a great week buddy !
Great to see you. Thanks for the bottle opener blanks too!
Awesome pours,Silver Scorpion sent me, New subscriber 👍👍👍👍
Thank you very much. much appreciated.
Man you got this casting thing really ironed out. Good looking stuff
Cheers Brother. been learning more and more everytime. you should get a logo sorted out. 😉
They turned out really good Steve brilliant mate am sure Roe will be really happy with it. 🤜🤛👍
Cheer Ali. i'm very happy with it. was worried about all the teeth on it but they came out nice. cheers man. see you thursday
Dang good outcome on all the pieces. Its always great when every piece comes out the way you intended it to.
Thanks Wulf. getting my system down now. im going to try and do a big batch every time i fire up the furnace now for sure.
this is going to be a large pour! nice interlocking pattern!
it was a good amount for sure. probably 30 - 35 pounder total
They all look amazing. The pencil box is very heart felt. A bit of advice, if I may. Take one of the foam pieces. Put in a bucket of water, mark the level. Remove the foam. Know you know the amount of aluminum you’ll need. That will then help you determine the size of the can for the top. Looking forward to your next post.
Thanks Allen. Good tip on the volume. cheers!
Roe sent me. Just subscribed .
Cool! thanks for coming
Fantastic work man !!
Thanks You Sir. Having fun now. finally getting it dialed in
@@stevesrt8 yes you nailed it !!
Great results Steve, every time i watch your videos, I’m amazed at the capabilities of foam castings. I need to practice with my little CNC and try this! Great work and thanks for sharing!
thanks Joel. Foam is a great method. all kinds of big complex stuff is done this way. engine blocks, electric motor casings. works well for sure. its good fun. im pretty limited by the size of my cnc. trying to get more creative.
@@stevesrt8 I wonder if I could make spray foam molds with my 3d printer, then fill them in and cast them similar to your technique?
potentially. i believe artbyadrock did a sprayfoam skull. i havent tried sprayfoam but have heard it doesnt burn out as well as polystyrene.
@@stevesrt8 Ok good to know, I will look at his older videos. Cheers
@@joelshopefullyhelpfulvideo3010 here it is. th-cam.com/video/hYpaGK2bk8E/w-d-xo.html
Great looking stuff there Steve, Dad.
Thanks Dad. definately pleased with the results.
Nicely done. Like I said on your previous video. You are pretty damn good at lost foam castings. Keep it up cause the detail is tremendous 👌
Thank You Sir. Appreciate it.
🔥bons equipamentos, ótimas peças e um excelente profissional, parabéns bem legal 🔥👊
Obrigado Jony. É bom receber um elogio de um profissional.
Nice Like your kiln lid. 😁 You always have such great results in the end. And I like how you tell us what you learned, Cheers!
lol. yeah the lid. i was wondering if anyone would say something haha. most people have lids with giant holes in them anyways so im not too worrried about that haha. i'm still learning myself. learning from mistakes.
@@stevesrt8 yep. learning every day!
wow! just amazing results!
Thank you! Much appreciated.
Very nice results, I gotta try this plaster dip, great video, 🍻
Thanks Man. Cheers. the plaster works well. im still trying to work out the best way to apply it. keep getting bubbles. getting there though.
Wow more awesome video!! And I just follow your channel!
cool! thanks for coming over. hope all is well
@@stevesrt8 you're so welcome and I just ShotOut your channel in my new video I just Uploaded today friend!
wow brother 😳 Hey they all turned out great I’m with you on this one little bit dirty makes it look really really neat.. I personally really like that look👊🏻👊🏻
Thanks Man. i like the contrast. makes it look older also. Cheers
@@stevesrt8 ya man that look is awesome 👊🏻
Thats so cool!
Yeah man! I thought so too lol. Got another one ready for my other boy. Haven’t poured it yet. Cheers
Awesome 👍
Thank You Kan! cheers
Cool
Cheers Sir.
Morning Steve, coming over from Cruiser Mac, awesome coins you made him. New Sub, /cheers ScrapBongo Liked
hey right on. cool man. I've been subbed to you for a while. i went to your channel and see youve been uploading again. i didnt realize. cheer. i got some watching to do
They all came out great Steve! What do you use for glue, to glue them together?
Thanks Man. I use a hot glue gun for the sprues. it can get too hot and melt the foam so it can be a bit of a pain. cant leave it plugged in too long. i use aleene's tacky glue when doing a lamination.
@@stevesrt8 Buy the lowest melt point hot glue you can and use a high/lo temp glue gun on low setting. Amazon is your friend for both and the check my pattern materials video for the type of glue sticks. The low temp glue and setting won't melt/crater your foam like the the high temp stuff. Also, apply the glue sparingly and swipe/smear joint o make it thin as thin as possible. It will reduce downstream casting flaws. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 ahh. low temp glue. I didn't realize that was a thing. I've been meaning to pick up another gun. Thanks Kelly. I have watched. I picked up some tacky glue based on your recommendation. I'll have to re watch. i don't recall the different glue stick types. Cheers
@@stevesrt8 The tacky glue is great when you need longer work times. Us eit very sparing, smeer the joint between the two parts, weight or bind together for thin joint. Best, Kelly
Hello from the rising sun Japan I am a new subscriber
優しい言葉ありがとうございます。すべてが順調であることを願っています。
@@stevesrt8 お元気ですか
I have you added with my metal channel now. I have thought about the lost foam. I would like to try it out
thanks man. i've been digging it. keep an eye out for cool foams. i like hitting up dollar stores.
Liked and subbed from the Silver Scorpoin 👍 😊
Cheers man.
Oooooh do me! Do me!
sounds good haha. cheers. on the list now
@@stevesrt8 just came over from silver scorpion!
I see the missing teeth on the blade now. Did you intentionally remove them? All the teeth were still on my blade. The blade won the battle against my fingers.
I was cutting some aluminum on my miter saw and something happened. big bang. scared the crap outta me. those teeth went flying somewhere. i didnt get hurt. just a big fright. thanks for sharing your story. i think i will think of you every time i use my tablesaw now.
man that was a lot of ones to do in a single day, nice! So did you get your venting issue figured out? 6 months or so ago I thought you'd stopped putting it on the back and tried a few other things like that as you were having issues with some filling? Maybe just not as thick coating or ????
yeah.. i think i was going too thick. the first time i tried doing a full coating, it started raining and i think i poured a bit cold. threw me off. full fairly thin coat is the way to go.
@@stevesrt8 good to know in case I get off my butt and do this with all the foam I have cut one of these days!
@@ChatterontheWire lol. i've been waiting to see you do it forever now. once you start you'll probably get addicted
@@stevesrt8 i remelted some brass this weekend and did my first copper melt as well. Really need to finish up my open sided lean-to/roofed thing, but the snow got in the way. Want to get a perm spot setup so I don't have to constantly move stuff around ever time I melt.
@@ChatterontheWire copper! nice man. that's awesome. its a lot of gear to store and move for sure. i wish i had the space to have a permanent set up. that would be sweet. wheels on things help. i may add some to my flasks. those 30 pound gas bottles get pretty heavy when full of sand
First like 👍
Lol. Cheers. hope you guys are feeling better. ttys
@@stevesrt8 yeah… all good these days.
The castings are coming out great!
cool vid
Cheers Lee.
Nice bro
Thank you Sir. Cheers
Congratulations
thank you. Cheers
What type of foam do you use?
it is rigid foam insulation. most hardware stores will carry it. different brands have different colors but its all pretty much the same. extruded polystyrene foam
😍 i wish that if you could gift me cubic pens box. ,
thank you. I'm very pleased with it.
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