My only comment is to put some kind of grease on the bare metal. That bare metal on bare metal contact will rust back together worse than when you had to wrestle it apart. Any kind of grease that comes in a tube will work; like Hi temp, moly, synthetic, implement, chassis, red n tacky, silicone, white lithium, graphite, etc. You may or may not have any on hand. I can’t think of any super thick grease that won’t ooze out that you might have on hand.
Excellent job!!! One thing I would recommend is a blast cabinet with glass bead to bead blast the parts with. But nothing wrong with how you guys did this restoration. I have done this many times in the past, too. I haven't had much luck with the various rust conversion chemicals out there. Always messy cleanup afterwards with so-so results. Thanks for sharing.
Has an owner of a New England factory in its 4th generation, I love the commitment you have to honor the past and tradition. We have lost so much knowledge about craftsmanship in exchange for cost reduction. This type of enterprise accomplishes the blending of the past with the present.
Cool tools! It would’ve been interesting to see an explanation of how this lasting jack works and what the knobs and controls do. Next time introduce the person doing the work and narration please! We want to meet the whole team!
What a fascinating device. A bit of oil or grease on the areas of unpainted metal will help the tool to not get seized up. It will make future disassembly and adjustments much easier.
I very much appreciate that you want to see things brought back to "close to perfect", and that you're not afraid (seemingly enthusiastic) about showcasing the character and age of things. I've for years fantasized about inheriting a large shop, filled with machines that aren't made anymore; I'm envious of your haul. The few in the know about the mechanical marvels of the past are disappearing and it is the enthusiasm that you, others (and myself) have about their renaissance in modernity, that gives me hope for their saving. Thanks for bringing another one back to functionality.
That's a cool project. I bounce from project to project so I restore parts the lazy way: Coat it with CitriStrip, wrap it in plastic, wait 24 hours hours then scrape the easy stuff, repeat as needed. Soak the unpainted/rusty parts in vinegar for 1-2 days, lightly wire brush whatever comes off, repeat as needed.
If you restore any other equipment I would definitely recommend testing for lead paint, the kits are pretty cheap. I just finished a project for school where we restored a lathe from the early 1900’s. We decided we should test the paint and sure enough it was lead, so we had to be very careful to not create any dust. We had to do all of the paint removal chemically, and then the rust removal outside. Always worth checking whenever it’s something old
A great job. I am always amazed at talent some persons have in repairing, restoring old items from years past. I unfortunately am a left handed person in a right handed world. I really enjoy the new Rose channel. Wishing I could have the knack for repairing items as well..
PB Blaster works exponentially better than WD-40. It is a true penatrating oil where as WD-40 was created to displace water. The 40th water displacing formula. I disagree about the stink. IMHO, nothing is as bad as gear oil and I have never experienced lingering PB Blaster stink after a round of personal hygiene, but it does have a unique scent, no doubt there.
@@567jmr6 yep the wd stands for water displacement and was the 40th formula. Growing up my dad always had it and I love that old look of the can. I have heard that wd40 could be bad for moving parts too because of the water displacement. I haven't experienced that, but I don't use it as much unless it's all that's around.
@@jdlackey88 oh I hear ya there, I don't find as bad as gear oil, but it works in a different way than WD40 which stands for water displacement. PB actually penetrates rust. But I don't thinks it's close to the smell of differential fluid or other gear oils. I'm gonna smell like I've been working with metal all day anyway. And if that doesn't work, there's always map gas... just keep the heat on the nut so it expands more than the stud.
Why didn't you sandblast it? & get it powdercoated (durability) or at least put some decent primer &/or undercoat on it? & instead of breaking things taking it apart, engage some skills in how to break corrosion bonding, like judicious use of heat and acidic chemicals. That wooden dowel is toast. It will fail on you. Get a woodturner to make you a new one. & square nuts instead of hex nuts on fasteners usually dates something to pre-1920s, when hex nuts became mass-produced and more common.
30% Off Rose Anvil Scratch & Dent Leather Goods here while supplies last - bit.ly/3pgTw4Z
Incredible restoration. And for the algorithm
I really liked that you kept many original parts, like the square nut
This is a cool restoration!
Please put some grease on that swivel or it'll be rusted like crazy in no time.
You guys should invest in a sandblasting machine. It makes rust removal for projects like these super easy and satisfying.
Can’t wait for the Rose Anvil Boots
My only comment is to put some kind of grease on the bare metal. That bare metal on bare metal contact will rust back together worse than when you had to wrestle it apart. Any kind of grease that comes in a tube will work; like Hi temp, moly, synthetic, implement, chassis, red n tacky, silicone, white lithium, graphite, etc. You may or may not have any on hand. I can’t think of any super thick grease that won’t ooze out that you might have on hand.
Well done. Nice John Deere color scheme. Will make those folks in WI happy
Excellent job!!!
One thing I would recommend is a blast cabinet with glass bead to bead blast the parts with. But nothing wrong with how you guys did this restoration. I have done this many times in the past, too. I haven't had much luck with the various rust conversion chemicals out there. Always messy cleanup afterwards with so-so results. Thanks for sharing.
Has an owner of a New England factory in its 4th generation, I love the commitment you have to honor the past and tradition.
We have lost so much knowledge about craftsmanship in exchange for cost reduction. This type of enterprise accomplishes the blending of the past with the present.
Oh my!!!! I remember this channel!!!!
Cool tools! It would’ve been interesting to see an explanation of how this lasting jack works and what the knobs and controls do. Next time introduce the person doing the work and narration please! We want to meet the whole team!
What a fascinating device. A bit of oil or grease on the areas of unpainted metal will help the tool to not get seized up. It will make future disassembly and adjustments much easier.
I very much appreciate that you want to see things brought back to "close to perfect", and that you're not afraid (seemingly enthusiastic) about showcasing the character and age of things. I've for years fantasized about inheriting a large shop, filled with machines that aren't made anymore; I'm envious of your haul. The few in the know about the mechanical marvels of the past are disappearing and it is the enthusiasm that you, others (and myself) have about their renaissance in modernity, that gives me hope for their saving. Thanks for bringing another one back to functionality.
That's a cool project.
I bounce from project to project so I restore parts the lazy way:
Coat it with CitriStrip, wrap it in plastic, wait 24 hours hours then scrape the easy stuff, repeat as needed.
Soak the unpainted/rusty parts in vinegar for 1-2 days, lightly wire brush whatever comes off, repeat as needed.
If you restore any other equipment I would definitely recommend testing for lead paint, the kits are pretty cheap. I just finished a project for school where we restored a lathe from the early 1900’s. We decided we should test the paint and sure enough it was lead, so we had to be very careful to not create any dust. We had to do all of the paint removal chemically, and then the rust removal outside. Always worth checking whenever it’s something old
Such a. Good job, would be nice to get a retro hand painted like “brand” mark on it that says something like “Jerrys Lasting Machine”
A great job. I am always amazed at talent some persons have in repairing, restoring old items from years past. I unfortunately am a left handed person in a right handed world. I really enjoy the new Rose channel. Wishing I could have the knack for repairing items as well..
Great job. 👍
Looks great. There's nothing wrong with replacing wood parts, though... especially wormy brittle stuff. It's meant to be replaced.
For future reference, a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and kerosene is a god tier penetrating fluid for getting stuck bolts out.
I love how the time lapse video looks almost like stop motion
God damn that green pops!
That was really cool👌
11:30 what song is this
This was super cool
Very kool resto
I hope you guys tested the paint for lead before brushing it.
wow. fantastic restoration! bravo!! 😻😻😻
Damn we used to have a freeman shoes in beloit Wisconsin a long time ago went out of business when I was a kid.
This is so cool
I loved it!
Shouldn't you have started with a touch of primer before going with the paint?
Should've used a sand blaster
I like to use PB blaster instead of wd40. Works a little better imo
I would rather not stink like PB Blaster for 3 days straight though. Its up there with transmission fluid and gear oil, just sticks with you.
PB Blaster works exponentially better than WD-40. It is a true penatrating oil where as WD-40 was created to displace water. The 40th water displacing formula. I disagree about the stink. IMHO, nothing is as bad as gear oil and I have never experienced lingering PB Blaster stink after a round of personal hygiene, but it does have a unique scent, no doubt there.
@@567jmr6 yep the wd stands for water displacement and was the 40th formula. Growing up my dad always had it and I love that old look of the can. I have heard that wd40 could be bad for moving parts too because of the water displacement. I haven't experienced that, but I don't use it as much unless it's all that's around.
@@jdlackey88 oh I hear ya there, I don't find as bad as gear oil, but it works in a different way than WD40 which stands for water displacement. PB actually penetrates rust. But I don't thinks it's close to the smell of differential fluid or other gear oils. I'm gonna smell like I've been working with metal all day anyway. And if that doesn't work, there's always map gas... just keep the heat on the nut so it expands more than the stud.
Go Pack Go!
What were the names of the shoes that Larry's family made ?
Excellent job!!!
Why didn't you sandblast it? & get it powdercoated (durability) or at least put some decent primer &/or undercoat on it? & instead of breaking things taking it apart, engage some skills in how to break corrosion bonding, like judicious use of heat and acidic chemicals. That wooden dowel is toast. It will fail on you. Get a woodturner to make you a new one. & square nuts instead of hex nuts on fasteners usually dates something to pre-1920s, when hex nuts became mass-produced and more common.
Amazing work!
Ssg hoodie?
So you took a lasting jack from Wisconsin and then painted it John Deere/ Packers colors? LOVE IT!
Signed,
A Wisconsinite 😉🤣
awesome work. Looks great!
Like #500! Should probably wear gloves when handling chemicals, safety first!
Smashing job tho!
Oustanding.
Instead of a chemical bath should have ultrasonic cleaned them for the health of the material
Also just curious did all the knobs go back on
Lasting Jack x John Deere
Why didn’t you just have it sand blasted ?
RESTORED a 1930's EUDORA II Shoe Widener th-cam.com/video/QGi_r2JDu8s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=3NjLlGVv8Ozn7cqB