MIKE!!!! Make a million dollars and turn this saga into a board game, it would be better than playing monopoly. I cant wait for you to win (LOL) Glad to see that it is not getting you down. Best wishes, Yorkshire Rob.
I’m watching this in bed talking out loud my thoughts about the problem. My half asleep wife suddenly says “ he can’t hear you”. True but you still offer advice don’t you?
Dead good these videos of yours, I’ve watched loads and come away with some great tips My big takeaway from this one is that even someone as professional and knowledgeable as you can sometimes have things go wrong, and have to spend ages chasing your tail trying to figure the problem! And you’ve got all the posh tools and the knowhow! Brings hope to a bumbling, amateur mechanic like me? But I bet you end up solving the problem a damned sight quicker than I would😁
Yes Alan = I could have missed this all out and gone straight to a nice engine - but I know you guys have issues with engines that are frustrating, so I do not do this for drama, but to show you a logical process of fault finding!
Hi Mike, I have previously had a rebuilt 300tdi that was pressurising the top of the cylinder head. I checked so many things - even put in new sleeves and pistons. Finally found that the oil separator (plastic thing on the side of the head) was faulty and not doing its job correctly. I seem to remember you could not blow air through the separator with your mouth. Changed the separator and all was fine. Engine still running well to this day. Cheers Nick
Claude machined the block to the pistons supplied - +0.020 The pistons were already fitted with rings - never had a problem in the past Now remember this year with the Malawi 110 and I had to use a ridge reamer to remove the ridge on the to of the cylinders they were so worn? You would have though that would have smoked like hell! Nothing
Also, along the standards rings on .020 pistons theory, maybe the piston would act as a sort of check valve where gas leaks past on the downward intake stroke, but seals well on the compression stroke. Interesting puzzle..
This will be one for the books. I'm wondering about the turbo idea. I would never have thought of that. Maybe check out the whole breather system for blockages. Thanks for the great video Mike.
Loving this Mike, I love a problem solving exercise. Currently in the middle of a thermostat change on a VW 1.8. "Yes bring it round, I'll do that." I will be on my third attempt next week! Had to order a 1/4" universal 10mm socket to get to one bolt. If anyone asks you to do one, you are busy!
@@BritannicaRestorations We all know a Curtis. The guy who loves a bargain without realising that Keeping them on the road costs as much as buying a decent car or more. I doubt the Yaris requires much work. There was a lot of swearing trying to work on a modern front drive car, the only saving grace is the good old You Tube, so many videos to show you the way. Like yourself, I started as a young man with nothing more than the Haynes manual.
Had a similar issue in my landcruiser 1hdt I just rebuilt and installed in my 130.. was very oily and fumy from the crankcase… a couple of days hard running with some weight on her bedded in the rings and runs clean as a whistle now.
Britannica Restorations Ltd I gotta say.. the 80 series 1hdt is a great conversion that is rarely done in these. I think I’m the first one in aus to do it. Hope the tdi all comes good.
Once I had an engine that was over pressurising the crank case and it was the turbo through the oil return, not sure why it was doing it but a new turbo fixed the problem, it was an John deer not an landy.
This sounds mad , but what if the cylinder walls ain't bored parallel. What if there bigger at the bottom of the stroke. Hence the back pressure , check them at the bottom of the stroke.
Mike I think it might be the brake exhauster on the side of the engine, that expels excess pressure into the crankcase causing oil to blow out if it can't pull a vacuum as you know. Or faulty servo. This is what I had, the servo was faulty, it looked like it was pulling a vacuum but it wasn't. Hope this helps
You've still got abnormally high crankcase pressure even though rings in normal range. Have to look for other sources of pressure. Start pulling tubes, but I'm not familiar with PCV circuit.
Mike great set of films showing the fault finding processes Thankyou. Just one point earlier on you said I think that you've bypassed the EGR system could this be giving you a problem?...
Hi Mike, Have you got a oscilloscope? I have just started playing around with one on my 300tdi. I have made a pressure sensor using a piezo sensor, this could be used to see the pressure waveform from the dipstick to see if it relates to the cylinders firing or a constant pressure. The piezo wont read the actual pressure but will show the differential in pressure. Just a thought and Good Luck.
If the vented gas isn't smoky, and therefor not exhaust gas, it must be intake gas. How would intake gas get into the crankcase? I'd guess the intake valves are leaking into the rocker area through the guides. This would only happen when the valve is open which would explain why the leak-down and compression tests are good. I know it's a new head, but maybe it's new as in "new problems".
Vely interesting ,presuming all the build tolerances are bob on and it's combustion gasses in crankcase what type of oil are you using to break-in the engine 🤔 I have always used mineral oil to start with and after say 600 miles go onto semi or fully synthetic oils, great video mike 👍
That is a proper head scratcher, and scary after all the work into the engine.. I'd be relieved of it's turbo, but I was also wondering if it could be something as simple as overfilling the oil in crankcase. Although I'd expect different sounds and more issues with seals etc..
Mike, I've no idea what it is but I do wonder how you keep so calm? I'd be throwing things all around the garage by know. Hope you sort it soon, I'm anxiously waiting for the rear salisbury diff rebuild vid.😉
Mike, could it be somehow connected to the turbo somehow putting pressure into the oil system via a defective compressor seal? Or an incorrectly plumbed in crankcase breather hose? Full marks to you for not "doing your nut" over it and calmly "soldiering on"...
I am tending to lead this way now = just need to work out a cunning plan to block the oil return without drying out the turbo - vac pump is capped by the way!
As always it is very puzzling, was wondering if bores are tapered, ie looser down the bore. Wondered if just closing the valves and doing a leak down further down the bore might help....
Mike everything I read said do not let these engines idle when they have just been built. You are a couple of hours in on tick over and may be glazing the bores?
The suspense is killing me , so it must be really annoying for you Mike. Every step I would take you are already doing . Thanks for the fascinating videos , I watch every one . Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮♥️
@@harveysmith100 Ha, good retort ! I'm glad someone shares a similar sense of humour ! After all we wouldn't want to put a " damper" on the situation! Taxi for Springy ! Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮♥️
You gave us some direction there Mike. You mentioned its oil control rather than combustion gasses. Question is how is oil mist at that volume getting into the bean can you used as a test. Whats causing the oil misting......faulty head maybe. Is it a Chinesium head
The compression test and leak down should rule out head problems In the next video I run it with the valve cover off and you can see air is coming up from the crank cases - forcing oil out of the breather
Mike, could it be the oil pressure relief valve stuck closed, have you checked the oil pressure? Or is there an oil restrictor missing somewhere, feed to the head maybe?
I know it doesn't relate to the landy but years back i had an engine strip and rebuild and found a tiny little washer stuck in the bag after rebuild.. Would it hell get oil pressure so engine out,strip and find where the hell this washer went.It worked perfect... Sometimes the issue can be the most simple over looked thing and as i said the other day i'm hoping that is the issue with the 110 but you'll find it,i have faith.
Hi Mike, thanks for the educational videos, really appreciate your effort to share your knowledge and experience. At the problem at hand I can think of only 3 possible issues: 1. The piston sleeve is not the same as n causes compression leak not in the piston position you measure (very law chance). 2. Some of the breathers in the system blocked, creating the pressure due to piston movement. 3. Turbo issue? I never encountered before, but there is always the first time... Waiting anxiously for you to resolve the issue.
If this is the engine where you put the baffle in the valve cover maybe you should try it without, just to eliminate it doing something freaky and unexpected.
No - this is how 300 Tdi are the oil from the rocker travels through the rocker by a drilling and then it leaks out onto the ball on the adjuster and then back into the sump - the valves rely on splash feed to lube them
There's a simplistic way of looking at this. You have gas being pumped. You've eliminated, with this testing, the four cylinders (both pistons and valves) as the source of this pumped gas. That leaves two other gas pumps. The vacuum pump is easily ruled out, leaving only the Turbo. Somehow the turbo is moving gas into the wrong part of the engine. Oil return being the most likely. Weird head related defect being another unlikely possibility. Disconnect the oil return to a catch can, plug the input to the sump and test run (briefly).
Y'know in yer previous build video, you said and showed the exhaust gas valve thing disconnected and the hose blanked/plugged off. Erm...would that have any thing to do with gasses not being able to vent out and instead going back into the engine causing too much pressure? What would happen if the exhaust gas thing was refitted and the engine venting as per spec??
@@BritannicaRestorations - Thanks for the reply! - Oh well then...the plot thickens! The only other half-arsed suggestion would have been whether or not there was a blanking plug left in when the engine was being painted/blasted or when the engine was getting rebuilt. But that now, when typing this, seems like a totally stupid suggestion. My head was telling me that something is blocking something, or has been sooked in and is blocking something else. Either way, at least we know it's definately ''something'' LOL.
Not checked, but there was a new relief spring and valve fitted - I am sure it is not an over pressurized oil system - air is being forced up the drains in the head/block and not allowing oil to drain back, but be blown out of the breather
MIKE!!!! Make a million dollars and turn this saga into a board game, it would be better than playing monopoly. I cant wait for you to win (LOL) Glad to see that it is not getting you down. Best wishes, Yorkshire Rob.
Good idea Rob - next thing to check is the turbo and see if air is getting in via the return pipe!
What a fabulous video, thank you so much for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love the positive attitude, determination and confidence you will crack it. The world needs more people like you.
This has become a Nice cliffhanger.
King Mike, I 'm already undressed. 🤣
Cheers. 🥃
That’s enough to drive anyone right round the pipe.
Good to have a warm and dry garage at this time of year as it might take a while to suss this!
Indeed! -15c this morning!
100 % faith it will be resolved in the next video, that's the difference between a mechanic and an engineer !
I will find it but it is a mystery!
01:38 here now cant sleep. Looks almost like the gauges used when refilling a aircon.
Fascinating Mike.
I’m watching this in bed talking out loud my thoughts about the problem. My half asleep wife suddenly says “ he can’t hear you”. True but you still offer advice don’t you?
No worries - got the message!
Def a head scratcher
Loving Mikes Cluedo. Just amazing to watch.
Thanks Mike. 👍🏻😉
Glad you enjoyed it
Dead good these videos of yours, I’ve watched loads and come away with some great tips
My big takeaway from this one is that even someone as professional and knowledgeable as you can sometimes have things go wrong, and have to spend ages chasing your tail trying to figure the problem! And you’ve got all the posh tools and the knowhow!
Brings hope to a bumbling, amateur mechanic like me? But I bet you end up solving the problem a damned sight quicker than I would😁
Yes Alan = I could have missed this all out and gone straight to a nice engine - but I know you guys have issues with engines that are frustrating, so I do not do this for drama, but to show you a logical process of fault finding!
@@BritannicaRestorations your brilliant 👍
Hi Mike, I have previously had a rebuilt 300tdi that was pressurising the top of the cylinder head. I checked so many things - even put in new sleeves and pistons. Finally found that the oil separator (plastic thing on the side of the head) was faulty and not doing its job correctly. I seem to remember you could not blow air through the separator with your mouth. Changed the separator and all was fine. Engine still running well to this day. Cheers Nick
I was wondering about his
The standard pistons is what my 2p is on. Nice work Mike very interesting
Claude machined the block to the pistons supplied - +0.020
The pistons were already fitted with rings - never had a problem in the past
Now remember this year with the Malawi 110 and I had to use a ridge reamer to remove the ridge on the to of the cylinders they were so worn?
You would have though that would have smoked like hell!
Nothing
I like the r380 tunnel cover that's a nice piece of kit.
Also, along the standards rings on .020 pistons theory, maybe the piston would act as a sort of check valve where gas leaks past on the downward intake stroke, but seals well on the compression stroke. Interesting puzzle..
This is better than any miss Marple who dunit
lol!
This will be one for the books.
I'm wondering about the turbo idea. I would never have thought of that.
Maybe check out the whole breather system for blockages.
Thanks for the great video Mike.
I'll check it out!
Loving this Mike, I love a problem solving exercise.
Currently in the middle of a thermostat change on a VW 1.8. "Yes bring it round, I'll do that."
I will be on my third attempt next week! Had to order a 1/4" universal 10mm socket to get to one bolt.
If anyone asks you to do one, you are busy!
I do not touch anything except Debbie's motors and my Yaris !
The vehicles Curtis drives are all lost causes!
@@BritannicaRestorations We all know a Curtis. The guy who loves a bargain without realising that Keeping them on the road costs as much as buying a decent car or more.
I doubt the Yaris requires much work.
There was a lot of swearing trying to work on a modern front drive car, the only saving grace is the good old You Tube, so many videos to show you the way.
Like yourself, I started as a young man with nothing more than the Haynes manual.
I remember the days when Haynes used to do gearboxes and axles - those days have gone - too many special tools!
Hi Mike 👍 great video update as always 🤔🤔🤔 I no you will get to bottom of it 🤔got me stumped 🤔🤔 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🚌🚌🚌
You and me both!
@@BritannicaRestorations well its happy time for us over here on the gin 🍸🍸🍸
Had a similar issue in my landcruiser 1hdt I just rebuilt and installed in my 130.. was very oily and fumy from the crankcase… a couple of days hard running with some weight on her bedded in the rings and runs clean as a whistle now.
I noticed in a coming video it was getting better
Britannica Restorations Ltd I gotta say.. the 80 series 1hdt is a great conversion that is rarely done in these. I think I’m the first one in aus to do it. Hope the tdi all comes good.
Once I had an engine that was over pressurising the crank case and it was the turbo through the oil return, not sure why it was doing it but a new turbo fixed the problem, it was an John deer not an landy.
Looks like it!
As I wrote before 10 seconds of compression test 340 psi.
20 seconds well over 400 on my just rebiult 200tdi.
It jumped up in the same time frame - I thing the rings are getting bedded in
At this point I’m going to have to say it has something to do with the turbo. I have zero experience with turbos so it’s just a guess.
This sounds mad , but what if the cylinder walls ain't bored parallel. What if there bigger at the bottom of the stroke. Hence the back pressure , check them at the bottom of the stroke.
Mike I think it might be the brake exhauster on the side of the engine, that expels excess pressure into the crankcase causing oil to blow out if it can't pull a vacuum as you know. Or faulty servo. This is what I had, the servo was faulty, it looked like it was pulling a vacuum but it wasn't. Hope this helps
Already blanked off and still the same!
You've still got abnormally high crankcase pressure even though rings in normal range. Have to look for other sources of pressure. Start pulling tubes, but I'm not familiar with PCV circuit.
Could one of the piston rings be upside down? Looking forward to the update. Love the methodical approach Mike!
Then we would have a pressure drop
Mike great set of films showing the fault finding processes Thankyou.
Just one point earlier on you said I think that you've bypassed the EGR system could this be giving you a problem?...
No, as the non EGR engine has the same breather system - it is very common to remove the EGR as normally they are stuck open or closed
Hi Mike, Have you got a oscilloscope? I have just started playing around with one on my 300tdi. I have made a pressure sensor using a piezo sensor, this could be used to see the pressure waveform from the dipstick to see if it relates to the cylinders firing or a constant pressure. The piezo wont read the actual pressure but will show the differential in pressure. Just a thought and Good Luck.
If the vented gas isn't smoky, and therefor not exhaust gas, it must be intake gas. How would intake gas get into the crankcase? I'd guess the intake valves are leaking into the rocker area through the guides. This would only happen when the valve is open which would explain why the leak-down and compression tests are good. I know it's a new head, but maybe it's new as in "new problems".
However - with the valve cover off - same pressure - see part 2
What about the oil restriter stoping to much oil in top end
Modern small hole front cam bush fitted and restriction not touched in the head - all factory
Vely interesting ,presuming all the build tolerances are bob on and it's combustion gasses in crankcase what type of oil are you using to break-in the engine 🤔 I have always used mineral oil to start with and after say 600 miles go onto semi or fully synthetic oils, great video mike 👍
That is a proper head scratcher, and scary after all the work into the engine.. I'd be relieved of it's turbo, but I was also wondering if it could be something as simple as overfilling the oil in crankcase. Although I'd expect different sounds and more issues with seals etc..
Most of the oil is on my floor! I had to re fill it yesterday!!
Mike, I've no idea what it is but I do wonder how you keep so calm? I'd be throwing things all around the garage by know.
Hope you sort it soon, I'm anxiously waiting for the rear salisbury diff rebuild vid.😉
I get used to it with Land Rovers!
Salisbury coming over winter!
Mike, could it be somehow connected to the turbo somehow putting pressure into the oil system via a defective compressor seal? Or an incorrectly plumbed in crankcase breather hose?
Full marks to you for not "doing your nut" over it and calmly "soldiering on"...
I am tending to lead this way now = just need to work out a cunning plan to block the oil return without drying out the turbo - vac pump is capped by the way!
As always it is very puzzling, was wondering if bores are tapered, ie looser down the bore. Wondered if just closing the valves and doing a leak down further down the bore might help....
Mike. The suspense is killing everyone ! That 'old knock' was still a concern ? V.
Mike everything I read said do not let these engines idle when they have just been built.
You are a couple of hours in on tick over and may be glazing the bores?
If it were the case then the compression would be lower?
The suspense is killing me , so it must be really annoying for you Mike.
Every step I would take you are already doing .
Thanks for the fascinating videos , I watch every one . Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮♥️
Cheers!
"I think Mike has done a video on replacing dodgy suspension."
I'll see myself out and I'll leave the door open to let the tumbleweed blow out.
@@harveysmith100
Ha, good retort !
I'm glad someone shares a similar sense of humour ! After all we wouldn't want to put a " damper" on the situation!
Taxi for Springy !
Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮♥️
@@springy-2112 Well that was more than equal to my nonsense!
@@harveysmith100
Teamwork 👍🏻
We could be the most cheesy double act , ( with no audience ) ever !
👍🏻☮♥️
With an action like that you'll be getting a call from Grimethorpe Colliery Band
lol!
You gave us some direction there Mike. You mentioned its oil control rather than combustion gasses. Question is how is oil mist at that volume getting into the bean can you used as a test. Whats causing the oil misting......faulty head maybe. Is it a Chinesium head
The compression test and leak down should rule out head problems
In the next video I run it with the valve cover off and you can see air is coming up from the crank cases - forcing oil out of the breather
Mike, could it be the oil pressure relief valve stuck closed, have you checked the oil pressure? Or is there an oil restrictor missing somewhere, feed to the head maybe?
It seems that way but the Tdi has restrictions in the front camshaft bush and the head gasket - if not the head would fill with oil!
On a ford if the rocker shaft was installed wrong thay would leak to much oil and cause consumption valves to wet
I wish it were that simple!
If not compression gas what else? You didn't overfill the oil did you Mike? Can the vac or lift pump cause pressure? It's a conundrum for sure.
more oil on the floor than in the engine! Vac pump blanked off!
Head gasket??
I know it doesn't relate to the landy but years back i had an engine strip and rebuild and found a tiny little washer stuck in the bag after rebuild..
Would it hell get oil pressure so engine out,strip and find where the hell this washer went.It worked perfect...
Sometimes the issue can be the most simple over looked thing and as i said the other day i'm hoping that is the issue with the 110 but you'll find it,i have faith.
Cheers!
Hi Mike, thanks for the educational videos, really appreciate your effort to share your knowledge and experience.
At the problem at hand I can think of only 3 possible issues:
1. The piston sleeve is not the same as n causes compression leak not in the piston position you measure (very law chance).
2. Some of the breathers in the system blocked, creating the pressure due to piston movement.
3. Turbo issue? I never encountered before, but there is always the first time...
Waiting anxiously for you to resolve the issue.
There are no sleeves on this engine, there is only one breather on the top of the motor, - could be turbo!
@@BritannicaRestorations Time to break out the smoke tester.
first of all, i´m not a expert, can the new turbo core be defective????...a passage between oil passage and exhaust part???(maybe a bad ring)
If this is the engine where you put the baffle in the valve cover maybe you should try it without, just to eliminate it doing something freaky and unexpected.
Same
Can you have excessive oil being pumped to the cylinder head?
No - this is how 300 Tdi are the oil from the rocker travels through the rocker by a drilling and then it leaks out onto the ball on the adjuster and then back into the sump - the valves rely on splash feed to lube them
What is the oil level showing on the dipstick? Any chance at all that there could be to much oil in the engine?
Actually it is lower than normal!
There's a simplistic way of looking at this. You have gas being pumped. You've eliminated, with this testing, the four cylinders (both pistons and valves) as the source of this pumped gas. That leaves two other gas pumps. The vacuum pump is easily ruled out, leaving only the Turbo. Somehow the turbo is moving gas into the wrong part of the engine. Oil return being the most likely. Weird head related defect being another unlikely possibility. Disconnect the oil return to a catch can, plug the input to the sump and test run (briefly).
This is my next coarse of action - but I have to work out how to do it!
My guess is either to much oil in the engine or bad valve seals.
Nope - when running with the valve cover off, there is no pressure out of the guides - as for oil, most of it is on the floor!
@@BritannicaRestorations Hmmm scratching chin🤔
@@BritannicaRestorations Ok how about this to much positive crankcase pressure because the cyclone breather is not functioning properly. 🤞
Cant be the exhaust side as there no burnt gases, has to be the charge/intake side Mike, looks like the Turbo has to be prime suspect #1
Looking that way!
Is the vac pump pulling air from somewhere? How about doing the leak down test while moving the piston down the barrel in case the barrel is not true
vac pump plugged at the pump - if not at TDC the piston will move on its own
Y'know in yer previous build video, you said and showed the exhaust gas valve thing disconnected and the hose blanked/plugged off. Erm...would that have any thing to do with gasses not being able to vent out and instead going back into the engine causing too much pressure? What would happen if the exhaust gas thing was refitted and the engine venting as per spec??
No the ERG valve should not have any effect as the early engines did not have this fitted - but the same breathing system
@@BritannicaRestorations - Thanks for the reply! - Oh well then...the plot thickens! The only other half-arsed suggestion would have been whether or not there was a blanking plug left in when the engine was being painted/blasted or when the engine was getting rebuilt. But that now, when typing this, seems like a totally stupid suggestion. My head was telling me that something is blocking something, or has been sooked in and is blocking something else. Either way, at least we know it's definately ''something'' LOL.
Lol!
Hi Mike, What is the oil pressure by digital gauge?
Not checked, but there was a new relief spring and valve fitted - I am sure it is not an over pressurized oil system - air is being forced up the drains in the head/block and not allowing oil to drain back, but be blown out of the breather
Could it be a turbo fault? Exhaust gas pulsing down the oil drain pipe.
I am thinking this way
My last suggestion would be the oil restriction in the head gasket is to big!
Good idea but this block has the later cam bushing at the front with the smaller hole and the head gasket has not been touched - restriction in place
@@BritannicaRestorations This is better than reading an Agatha Christie crime novel! 😃
Thanks. Is it the crankcase breather to the air cleaner??
Don't think so
...got me baffled mate....however I've been sitting here naked for over an hour now and the party hasn't started yet.... ;)
Get the scotch out - be round in 5..
@@BritannicaRestorations 😂😂😂👍
20% is clearly okay, the green portion of the gauge indicates where you want to be in terms of pressure loss.
Good thing to eliminate!
Turbo pressurising sump.
Could be!
I would do a trip to Niagara falls for a lunch with wife , and a gallon of oil in the boot , come back and see .....
lol!