Hey bro, so having just worked through this process myself and having real difficulties with your process, I found the following additional steps pergected my process: 1) Clean decal with Isopropyl Alc before dropping in water (this was the recommendation from Dr Decal the supplier of paper I used) 2) Clean the dial, I was lazy and used Isopropyl alcohol here but do so at you own risk. 3) Apply Microset with an atomiser spray bottle which will provide an even application across the dial rather than pooling together as you experienced. This will also massively help with applying Decal to dial. All.other steps as per your process. Without the above I couldn't get a Clean transfer and everytime had areas of my print that didn't transfer. My transfers were pit in a white Enamel dial and look really clean and as if printed. Really impressed. Thanks for the tutorial!
your first step is interesting...I'd almost be afraid of isopropyl being too abrasive on the ink, but maybe it's ok if it's fast. Clean the dial, yes, i typically do that i guess, can't remember if I specifically said that or not in this vid. a small spray bottle is a good idea for coverage. thanks for watching and sharing.
@WatchComplications Yeah, it was the recommendation of the supplier to clean the decal with meths, I gave a test print a really good rubbing with iso and had no transfer so seemed safe. Was a little more worried about cleaning the dial with iso but tested it on a test dial I'd bought and no drama. Regardless, ended up seeing much more consistent results adding the above steps! Hopefully that helps others!
I do models and watches. Doing decals with INKJET decal clear or white paper, print your decal then spray a thin layer of flat or semi-flat clear coat of paint over it. Let dry. Now you can do your process and it is done. PS: read the back of bottles. You use them backwards. SOL first and SET second.
I’ve thought about using spray, but I usually do that anyway when a dial is completely done. As for the process, it’s not so much about which is first, it’s that they are a little different. Set is used to help prepare a surface, and Sol is for helping it adhere seamlessly with the surface. Both soften the decal, but Sol a little moreso. In almost all examples I’ve seen of their use, Set is applied first and Sol second. This also works for me. :)
Yes the bottles are numbered as witch to use first. Also there not for filmless decals, it wont penetrate that kind of film. It's for cardiograp style water slide decals. Not what you were using. Different kind of decals. I'm a modeler of 30 years and a watch tinkerer, I've used both those products for years and with standard good model decals they will look painted on. Great video though, just different kind of decals.
Great results! what do you think about using Ghost White Toner products to print white? seems like that's about the cheapest way to print white... might be worth a shot
It's a good question and I have looked into it some, but the white printers/toners are very expensive. You're almost better off painting the dial white and then creating the dial using black for everything except the things you want "printed". Basically everything is black except the negative space.
@@WatchComplications thanks for the reply, yes most of the toners are expensive, but they have some new ones for 150-200 euros last time I checked... The reason I was looking for one is basically you are restricted by the negative print to always have a black background, or always mask everything with the color you are printing, if you want to use some interesting blank dials with unique patterns or textures with dark colors, then adding the white text or markers this way is not really doable.. I have tried it before, only occasion this worked for me was when background was black... other colors were not nice at all. I tried print colors with color printer, it will only look half decent when you have pure basic 4 CYMK colors, which doesn't need mixing different colors, even then it didn't look very nice, as colors are translucent white background is always needed... I'm now searching for a compatible printer if I can find something reasonably priced I would probably test the toner.
either you have to buy a sophisticated enough printer that can use white ink (or go somewhere that has one or order from a decal maker), or you have to paint the dial white and use the black decal to cover the spaces desired leaving "negative space"
I haven't ever used the "film free" decal paper yet. Looks very interesting. I have a laser printer that can also print in white. Let me know if you ever design a face with white details and I can print it up for you to see how it works! Great video as always.
Hi DimensionMachine, do you still have the ability to print in white? I’ve been having a hard time trying to find someone that can, but if you are able to I’d love to work with you on something!
@@kramerdesignco I am sorry. The afore mentioned printer is no longer in use but you could search around for somebody who does laser transfers. You will need to find somebody with a white toner transfer printer. Full disclosure white over a black base is going to be the worst case scenario appearance wise, and you may very well end up not being happy with the result. Plan to iterate and do several experiments. best of luck!
Glad you found it useful. The Micro Set did not leave any residue, very happy about that. The glue that comes with the decals tended to leave a little when I tried it for the first video.
where do you get the blank dials at? Also the holder that you can press your dials into? **EDIT: also where do you get the templates to print with as well as what program?
Hey I'm about to try this method to print a custom date wheel. Do you think it would come out nicely even under the magnification on the crystal. The image is plenty large at about 4000px and extremely sharp. I guess it'll depend on the printer but I'd love to head your thoughts and any other tips you might have on my project.
only way to know for sure is to test it :) But your chances for a good look are improved by having that high of a resolution. numbers and letters usually look fine. It’s angled lines that usually look digital.
Can you do some ultra closeups sometime at an oblique angle to see the texture of the print (not the resolution, I mean like is it glossy, is it 3d a little?)
matte works best for anything decal related on a watch dial, based on my testing so far. maybe if working on a porcelain or enamel surface the glossy results would work, but not on a glossy painted watch dial. The print is simply an ink transfer...there's not much if any texture to it. Any texture is based on film residue that might remain.
Would you consider doing some work for me? I’d be looking for certain things over and over on one sheet that I could just cut out. Just two words nothing crazy. If you can help let me know and we’ll figure it out. I know less than zero about computers.
Unfortunately, I don't function as a dial maker for others' custom or mod projects. I share my knowledge about processes, but the dials I make are for use in watches I make for my brand/clients, or for just general knowledge like I did here.
Happen to be wearing the same Vario tee shirt in blue this morning...😀 I particularly enjoy your custom dial and how to series. Always inspired by them. I will have to go back now and review how you made the decals. Can you print decals with better quality then a laser?
The decals are printed on film-free waterslide decal paper with a laser printer. When I do pad printing, a laser is used to etch the design into a steel plate. All lasers are not created equal. The etching fills with ink and then a pad is used to transfer from the plate to the dial surface. Pad printing is better quality, but these decals can be pretty good also.
Great video! Thanks for showing your whole process. Have you tried with colored decals? I'm curious if the chemicals change the colors at all. Also, what kind of primer and clear coat did you use?
I haven’t done this process with color yet but will soon. Might make a short video of that when I do it. For these dials I used a Rustoleum flat white primer, spray paint.
Esslinger has some brass blanks in a few varieties, could also look for low cost done dials from ofrei, ebay, and the like and then strip them and repurpose, which I do sometimes. Or get a local maker to laser cut some blanks.
two approaches. one, you go the expensive route and buy/use a printer that can print white. two, you have a white base and print everything black except the parts you want exposed.
Always thought microset and microsol were for transfers where the film remains on? Filmless transfers the toner from the film to the dial surface in the oven so microset might help get the surfaces laying closer together but think the microsol kind of dissolves filmed transfers so the film blends in better to the host surface. Interesting to see that it seems to help with filmless too...
yeah, I’m not exactly sure to be honest. What I do know is that it still needs baked, won’t transfer without the heat. But the chemicals certainly seemed to play a role in helping adhesion. It was night and day after the baking depending on whether I used the Micro products or not.
So hey, fun fact: Don't try this on a metallic sunburst dial. It will leave a residue that can't be removed and the decal won't fully adhere. I have tried Goo Gone and scraped with a tooth pick. It was totally worth trying this clever technique. I'll find something to do with the left over sheets, solution, and dial.
same process, just paint the dial black and then apply. The issue and cost is a printer that can print white. White toner is crazy expensive. The other option is using a white dial and then creating a graphic that is black except for what you want to be white.
hi, very good idea, if I have a black dial, its posible to do silver marks? other question, what program do you use to design the dial? thanks best regards
There are three printing approaches to printing a white/silver color. 1. The base dial would need to be that color and then print black on a decal that covers everything except what you want to show. 2. A printer that can print in those lighter shades...not cheap. 3. A black dial and go the old school and quality route of pad printing. As for graphics programs, I typically make my dial designs in an app called Graphic for Apple devices. And sometimes Affinity Design. Hope that helps.
Hi, great vid as usual. I really want to try this myself on a dial with no next, but which does have applied indices. Do you think any damage will come to the indices (which are lumed) in the heating process?
it shouldn’t impact the existing indices. look at some of my other vids, especially the latest one where I compare micro set and micro sol with the sunnyscopa glues. th-cam.com/video/nctLo7Nm1ws/w-d-xo.html
@@WatchComplications Actually I was watching that when I was alerted about your reply lol! Was very useful to see you testing on black dials. My dials have raised indices (which I hope are metal and not plastic), and wonder if they will be effected by the heat. This might be a stupid idea, but is it possible to layer the decals? Apply one, then apply an identical one right on top for a more pronounced look, and a bit of height (and perhaps cover up small imperfections)?
@@WatchComplications hi, thanks for your reply. I need just the art work made so I can make my own decals. I like a paticular style watch and dor sake of copyright would remove logo form the design
A question about the glue suggested by Sunnyscopa. The product suggests their W2 or W1 glue depending on the paper type. I noticed in the video you did not use either one. Does the Microset/sol product replace these? Also, have you tried this on a painted watch dial? I am thinking of painting Brass dials with an enamel, would this work with the heat?
Basically, yes. The W1/W2 glues work ok, but they leave more residue than I would like. Doing it this way gives a cleaner result usually. At least in my testing.
To the second question, these are painted dials, which works fine. I haven't tested it on enamel, but I image it would work ok, just need to use the paper type for polished/smooth surfaces. It's possible you would have to use the Sunnyscopa glue on that surface, but if it were me, I would test with the other method first.
This is the best tutorial I've seen, thanks! Can it be done in reverse- have the black decal cover most of the face, leaving the numbers, etc uncovered? Remove the film as usual, then apply pigment over the entire face, and use some chemical to remove the remaining black decal? That would give the numbers a painted on look.
I'm not sure how you would have a decal that has cutouts for the numbers, if I understand the process you are describing. And about any chemical is going to remove paint, be it the numbers or base paint.
@@WatchComplications basically I'm thinking about if you can invert the black/white? So when it prints, most of the decal is black and will transfer to the face. The numbers, logo, etc will be there as the absence of decal. Kind of like how the film in film cameras is the negative of the actual image.
oh, yeah you can do that, basically white is gaps in a color print, although you can also order decals from some shops that have printers that can print white. Some printers can print white, but cartridges are quite expensive. I haven’t tried that myself but that’s something I could test for a future video…the black with white numerals and markers sort of thing
@@WatchComplications that's it. But a further step, if possible, is to apply paint to the entire dial afterward and somehow remove the decal, so the paint remains on the dial for the numbers, the rest of the face was "protected" from the paint by the black decal.
doesn’t work that way. the decal in my examples is the actual transfer of ink from the film paper to the surface. there is no removing the printing without affecting the surface.
Hey bro, so having just worked through this process myself and having real difficulties with your process, I found the following additional steps pergected my process:
1) Clean decal with Isopropyl Alc before dropping in water (this was the recommendation from Dr Decal the supplier of paper I used)
2) Clean the dial, I was lazy and used Isopropyl alcohol here but do so at you own risk.
3) Apply Microset with an atomiser spray bottle which will provide an even application across the dial rather than pooling together as you experienced. This will also massively help with applying Decal to dial.
All.other steps as per your process. Without the above I couldn't get a Clean transfer and everytime had areas of my print that didn't transfer.
My transfers were pit in a white Enamel dial and look really clean and as if printed. Really impressed.
Thanks for the tutorial!
your first step is interesting...I'd almost be afraid of isopropyl being too abrasive on the ink, but maybe it's ok if it's fast. Clean the dial, yes, i typically do that i guess, can't remember if I specifically said that or not in this vid. a small spray bottle is a good idea for coverage. thanks for watching and sharing.
@WatchComplications Yeah, it was the recommendation of the supplier to clean the decal with meths, I gave a test print a really good rubbing with iso and had no transfer so seemed safe. Was a little more worried about cleaning the dial with iso but tested it on a test dial I'd bought and no drama.
Regardless, ended up seeing much more consistent results adding the above steps! Hopefully that helps others!
@@tobihall2247 yup any additional info that might help is very much welcomed!
@WatchComplications merry Christmas mate!
I do models and watches. Doing decals with INKJET decal clear or white paper, print your decal then spray a thin layer of flat or semi-flat clear coat of paint over it. Let dry. Now you can do your process and it is done. PS: read the back of bottles. You use them backwards. SOL first and SET second.
I’ve thought about using spray, but I usually do that anyway when a dial is completely done. As for the process, it’s not so much about which is first, it’s that they are a little different. Set is used to help prepare a surface, and Sol is for helping it adhere seamlessly with the surface. Both soften the decal, but Sol a little moreso. In almost all examples I’ve seen of their use, Set is applied first and Sol second. This also works for me. :)
Yes the bottles are numbered as witch to use first. Also there not for filmless decals, it wont penetrate that kind of film. It's for cardiograp style water slide decals. Not what you were using. Different kind of decals. I'm a modeler of 30 years and a watch tinkerer, I've used both those products for years and with standard good model decals they will look painted on. Great video though, just different kind of decals.
Great results! what do you think about using Ghost White Toner products to print white? seems like that's about the cheapest way to print white... might be worth a shot
It's a good question and I have looked into it some, but the white printers/toners are very expensive. You're almost better off painting the dial white and then creating the dial using black for everything except the things you want "printed". Basically everything is black except the negative space.
@@WatchComplications thanks for the reply, yes most of the toners are expensive, but they have some new ones for 150-200 euros last time I checked...
The reason I was looking for one is basically you are restricted by the negative print to always have a black background, or always mask everything with the color you are printing, if you want to use some interesting blank dials with unique patterns or textures with dark colors, then adding the white text or markers this way is not really doable..
I have tried it before, only occasion this worked for me was when background was black... other colors were not nice at all.
I tried print colors with color printer, it will only look half decent when you have pure basic 4 CYMK colors, which doesn't need mixing different colors, even then it didn't look very nice, as colors are translucent white background is always needed...
I'm now searching for a compatible printer if I can find something reasonably priced I would probably test the toner.
Thanks for the context. I plan to work with some colors next and see what happens. Perhaps I'll eventually get to white.
11:30 200 degrees, but what kind of degrees? The Fahrenheits or the Celsius’s?
Using the degree symbol as an O as in No. 1
Will this process work on an old dial?
age wouldn't matter as much as surface material and texture, so it depends on what you mean by old dial
Is there a way to get a black face with a white text?
either you have to buy a sophisticated enough printer that can use white ink (or go somewhere that has one or order from a decal maker), or you have to paint the dial white and use the black decal to cover the spaces desired leaving "negative space"
What sort of paint did you use on the dial ? Please
I think this was a flat white rustolem primer
@@WatchComplications do you think you could use enamel paint ?
would have to test to see. it’s a little harder to work with . would have to get the layer amount and drying time right
@@WatchComplications ok thanks may give it a go
I haven't ever used the "film free" decal paper yet. Looks very interesting. I have a laser printer that can also print in white. Let me know if you ever design a face with white details and I can print it up for you to see how it works! Great video as always.
sounds good. thanks for watching :)
Hi DimensionMachine, do you still have the ability to print in white? I’ve been having a hard time trying to find someone that can, but if you are able to I’d love to work with you on something!
Hey i'd be interested in getting a dial printed. I have a black dial with white details.
@@kramerdesignco I am sorry. The afore mentioned printer is no longer in use but you could search around for somebody who does laser transfers. You will need to find somebody with a white toner transfer printer. Full disclosure white over a black base is going to be the worst case scenario appearance wise, and you may very well end up not being happy with the result. Plan to iterate and do several experiments. best of luck!
Something which I was waiting forever and ever
Thanks so much for posting the whole process and what you learned form the different iterations! Did you find the Micro Set leaves any residue?
Glad you found it useful. The Micro Set did not leave any residue, very happy about that. The glue that comes with the decals tended to leave a little when I tried it for the first video.
Yes. On my metallic sunburst dial surface it did. As noted in the video, have many test dials and don't use one you can't replace.
where do you get the blank dials at? Also the holder that you can press your dials into? **EDIT: also where do you get the templates to print with as well as what program?
Hey I'm about to try this method to print a custom date wheel. Do you think it would come out nicely even under the magnification on the crystal. The image is plenty large at about 4000px and extremely sharp. I guess it'll depend on the printer but I'd love to head your thoughts and any other tips you might have on my project.
only way to know for sure is to test it :) But your chances for a good look are improved by having that high of a resolution. numbers and letters usually look fine. It’s angled lines that usually look digital.
Can you do some ultra closeups sometime at an oblique angle to see the texture of the print (not the resolution, I mean like is it glossy, is it 3d a little?)
matte works best for anything decal related on a watch dial, based on my testing so far. maybe if working on a porcelain or enamel surface the glossy results would work, but not on a glossy painted watch dial. The print is simply an ink transfer...there's not much if any texture to it. Any texture is based on film residue that might remain.
I know the logo is intended to be a hat; I see a viking longship under sail everytime. Double down on that if it's a nautical theme
interesting perspective. now I think I'll name it "Viking" haha. Thanks for watching!
Would you consider doing some work for me? I’d be looking for certain things over and over on one sheet that I could just cut out. Just two words nothing crazy. If you can help let me know and we’ll figure it out. I know less than zero about computers.
Unfortunately, I don't function as a dial maker for others' custom or mod projects. I share my knowledge about processes, but the dials I make are for use in watches I make for my brand/clients, or for just general knowledge like I did here.
Love that T-Shirt! Interesting process
One of my favorites :)
Wow Brian. Thanks for a SUPER helpful video
Glad you found it helpful :)
Happen to be wearing the same Vario tee shirt in blue this morning...😀
I particularly enjoy your custom dial and how to series. Always inspired by them.
I will have to go back now and review how you made the decals. Can you print decals with better quality then a laser?
The decals are printed on film-free waterslide decal paper with a laser printer. When I do pad printing, a laser is used to etch the design into a steel plate. All lasers are not created equal. The etching fills with ink and then a pad is used to transfer from the plate to the dial surface. Pad printing is better quality, but these decals can be pretty good also.
Use vector art rather than raster art and you will improve the line edge quality greatly
it is vector based. It’s a limitation of the printer, not the art.
I have a dial which needs painting…. It is an old Lucerne. Do you accept jobs? If not, do you have anyone you can refer the job to?
Sorry, no I do not take that kind of work right now. I recommend searching online for dial restoration providers.
Great video! Thanks for showing your whole process. Have you tried with colored decals? I'm curious if the chemicals change the colors at all. Also, what kind of primer and clear coat did you use?
I haven’t done this process with color yet but will soon. Might make a short video of that when I do it. For these dials I used a Rustoleum flat white primer, spray paint.
Any suggestions on where to get blank watch dials from?.. Just starting out and would like to try
Esslinger has some brass blanks in a few varieties, could also look for low cost done dials from ofrei, ebay, and the like and then strip them and repurpose, which I do sometimes. Or get a local maker to laser cut some blanks.
Thank you
Hey man, just about to trial my own design based on your method! What type of dial paint so you use?
usually some sort of white colored metal primer spray. sometimes a top coat spray, just depends.
Great video, thanks for sharing 👍🤙
glad you liked it
Going to give this a go with color inkjet. Going down the rabbit hole. Thanks for this it’s a great help.
Good luck! The glue that comes with the decals will generally work ok as well.
I ordered the good stuff your using. If I’m going I’m going all the way. Dankiè
Ooooh good taste in the wrist check!!!
thanks for watching!
Can you do white on black?
two approaches. one, you go the expensive route and buy/use a printer that can print white. two, you have a white base and print everything black except the parts you want exposed.
Any reason why to use type B over type A? Your videos are a great resource.
Seems to work better for me on a matte dial, though both can usually work. Type A might be better on a glossy surface.
Always thought microset and microsol were for transfers where the film remains on? Filmless transfers the toner from the film to the dial surface in the oven so microset might help get the surfaces laying closer together but think the microsol kind of dissolves filmed transfers so the film blends in better to the host surface. Interesting to see that it seems to help with filmless too...
yeah, I’m not exactly sure to be honest. What I do know is that it still needs baked, won’t transfer without the heat. But the chemicals certainly seemed to play a role in helping adhesion. It was night and day after the baking depending on whether I used the Micro products or not.
What printer do you use to do these decals?
Brother HL-L3210CW: amzn.to/3cCSGYj
So hey, fun fact: Don't try this on a metallic sunburst dial. It will leave a residue that can't be removed and the decal won't fully adhere. I have tried Goo Gone and scraped with a tooth pick. It was totally worth trying this clever technique. I'll find something to do with the left over sheets, solution, and dial.
Yeah I show this in one of my testing videos on various dial types. It’s best on a matte dial. th-cam.com/video/RwcK_hHJcnQ/w-d-xo.html
Even baking doesn’t help?
Hello. What is the oven temperature?
225f
Amazing ...What printer and decal do you use?
I used Sunnyscopa Type B decal paper and I print on a Brother laser printer.
Awsome video! Which laser printer did you use?
it's in the description Printer (Brother HL-L3210CW): amzn.to/3cCSGYj
Thank you!
Fantastico bravo
thanks!
hi, i loved the video! could you do one about white decals on black dials.
same process, just paint the dial black and then apply. The issue and cost is a printer that can print white. White toner is crazy expensive. The other option is using a white dial and then creating a graphic that is black except for what you want to be white.
Use distilled water.
yes, that is a good option.
Very interesting video. Thanks!
thanks for watching :)
What brand of matte clear coat do you use? Great video.
Krylon UV-resistant matte clear coat
yes, your help is very good, , thanks a lot
glad it helps
Good thinking with the micro sol set. Did you bake at 200 fahrenheit? (98 celcius) and how much dpi is your laserprinter?
I think I baked at 225f for 20min. Resolution is 2400 x 600 dpi
hi, very good idea, if I have a black dial, its posible to do silver marks? other question, what program do you use to design the dial? thanks
best regards
There are three printing approaches to printing a white/silver color. 1. The base dial would need to be that color and then print black on a decal that covers everything except what you want to show. 2. A printer that can print in those lighter shades...not cheap. 3. A black dial and go the old school and quality route of pad printing. As for graphics programs, I typically make my dial designs in an app called Graphic for Apple devices. And sometimes Affinity Design. Hope that helps.
Hey Brian you doing good
busy but ok!
Ya same thinking about video ideas next video probably going to be a rocket league
You know of anyplace to get your own applied emblems?
google electroformed nickel stickers and you'll find some options
Hi, great vid as usual. I really want to try this myself on a dial with no next, but which does have applied indices. Do you think any damage will come to the indices (which are lumed) in the heating process?
it shouldn’t impact the existing indices. look at some of my other vids, especially the latest one where I compare micro set and micro sol with the sunnyscopa glues. th-cam.com/video/nctLo7Nm1ws/w-d-xo.html
@@WatchComplications Actually I was watching that when I was alerted about your reply lol! Was very useful to see you testing on black dials. My dials have raised indices (which I hope are metal and not plastic), and wonder if they will be effected by the heat.
This might be a stupid idea, but is it possible to layer the decals? Apply one, then apply an identical one right on top for a more pronounced look, and a bit of height (and perhaps cover up small imperfections)?
Look at my video on that specific topic: th-cam.com/video/s6-WAOx0pbM/w-d-xo.html
I need to make a watch dial replacement decal. does anyone offer a service to help? thanks
designing, printing, or both? it couldn’t be anything branded since that gets into trademark territory. or are you talking your own design?
@@WatchComplications hi, thanks for your reply. I need just the art work made so I can make my own decals. I like a paticular style watch and dor sake of copyright would remove logo form the design
A question about the glue suggested by Sunnyscopa. The product suggests their W2 or W1 glue depending on the paper type. I noticed in the video you did not use either one. Does the Microset/sol product replace these? Also, have you tried this on a painted watch dial? I am thinking of painting Brass dials with an enamel, would this work with the heat?
Basically, yes. The W1/W2 glues work ok, but they leave more residue than I would like. Doing it this way gives a cleaner result usually. At least in my testing.
To the second question, these are painted dials, which works fine. I haven't tested it on enamel, but I image it would work ok, just need to use the paper type for polished/smooth surfaces. It's possible you would have to use the Sunnyscopa glue on that surface, but if it were me, I would test with the other method first.
Thanks! Have you tested light designs on dark painted dials?
that's up next in this series. I have some dark dials and want to see what visual impact the glue or residue makes on the dial.
This is the best tutorial I've seen, thanks! Can it be done in reverse- have the black decal cover most of the face, leaving the numbers, etc uncovered? Remove the film as usual, then apply pigment over the entire face, and use some chemical to remove the remaining black decal? That would give the numbers a painted on look.
I'm not sure how you would have a decal that has cutouts for the numbers, if I understand the process you are describing. And about any chemical is going to remove paint, be it the numbers or base paint.
@@WatchComplications basically I'm thinking about if you can invert the black/white? So when it prints, most of the decal is black and will transfer to the face. The numbers, logo, etc will be there as the absence of decal. Kind of like how the film in film cameras is the negative of the actual image.
oh, yeah you can do that, basically white is gaps in a color print, although you can also order decals from some shops that have printers that can print white. Some printers can print white, but cartridges are quite expensive. I haven’t tried that myself but that’s something I could test for a future video…the black with white numerals and markers sort of thing
@@WatchComplications that's it. But a further step, if possible, is to apply paint to the entire dial afterward and somehow remove the decal, so the paint remains on the dial for the numbers, the rest of the face was "protected" from the paint by the black decal.
doesn’t work that way. the decal in my examples is the actual transfer of ink from the film paper to the surface. there is no removing the printing without affecting the surface.