Thank you for this video. You have exposed the hypocrisy of manufacturers which make products with inferior/unreliable parts while they also claim that they are concerned about the environment which they are filling up with their badly designed products with poor quality parts.
This is the point I realized that this video won't teach me how vacum cleaners works:D I was interested in how sucction works and how to make it efficient.
@@whackowafer4765 yes i can do that. I work as a siren installer in united states. I can just put a vacuum cleaner motor on a pole that was remade into a siren! Lol ( i can't do that because a vacuum motor is not a siren)
I have a vacuum very similar to this. I had to replace the motor because the brushes/comutator started arcing/sparking really badly. The new motor only cost £12 so pretty cheap. I hope the fan blades don't fail in it. I tested it on DC with my bench PSU at max possible voltage (33+33V in series) and current (3.2A) and it ran much better on DC than AC with no arcing. The new motor does pump out quite a lot of hot air out the back so I only use it for short periods.
Those series wound motors can be quite efficient if constructed properly. They need a soft start for the inrush current, bigger blades, wider air channels and lower rpm. The power consumption could easily be cut down to around 500 W. Edit: the chip is a 8-Bit microcontroller up to 16 MHz with 2 interrupts, 2 timers, 2 kb ROM, and much more. This µC is perfect for creating phase angle controllers, with or without soft start, even current limiting is possible.
i disagree. that badly designed vacuum cleaners are built only for high rev runs. if you will let it rotate only on 500W it will almost have no suction. i will prefer more heavy vacuum cleaner with 550W induction motor. it is enough. look at the saw dust blowers for small wood workshops. 110mm hose and 1000Pa of sucking power. and it runs only at 2850rpms.
That's basically what I said. Bigger blades (i.e. bigger impeller), lower rpm, wider air channels. An induction motor runs at a fixed speed if you run it from the mains. Otherwise you'd need a VF which makes it expensive. Series wound motors can be controlled quite easily with a Triac and a rather simple circuit. And they are very efficient if designed properly. The now commercially used high-speed motors are very inefficient due to losses in the rotor and the large eddy currents in the stator's steel sheets.
ojojojo, może sterować odkurzaczem przy uzyciu laptopa? z procesorem I7? JA pierdole , ludzie, czy wy jesteście juz takimi durniami że do sterowania gównianym silnikiem komutatorowym wymyslonym w czasach dinozaurów chcecie uzywać mikroprocesorów? mózgi przegrzane od onanizmu
Could it be possible that the excess dust around the motor gets sucked in from the the outside due to non sealed motor compartment? because your filters look fairly clean.
This is precisely why I hate modern vacuum cleaners, cheap, loud, poorly made and just a pain in the arse to fix, not to mention single-stage motors are just too weak to be any good, a decent two-stage motor is essential for a good clean-air vac... :)
Miele uses an 18 bladed single stage motor that spins at lower rpms than shark and dyson. It's one of the only few brands of modern vacuums that are actually good.
Alexandru Vasiliu In the United States portable vacuum cleaners cannot exceed 1500 watts due to national electric code and UL. In North America where I live has 120 volt 60 hertz mains. If you want a really good clean air vacuum, a central vacuum with dual oversized lamb electric motors is mandatory.
Ha, you fools, you all were tricked by the vacuum companies, they trick you into getting a higher power vacuum, but in reality, the motor is just more inefficient to use more power.
I have an electrolux vacuum cleaner, the motor is exactly the same, the same screws and so on. My problem was that the rubber seal went bad so it wasn't sucking the air properly. The motor itself was fine, no broken fins.
Since you seem to be in the market for a new vacuum, I can recommend the Meile ones, they're quite quiet and good for the money, which isn't that much. I am surprised they don't have some kind of outlet fan to keep the dust out of the machine on the vacuum you took apart. When you fired the motor and zoomed in on the carbon brushes it looked like it was going to travel though time like in Back to the Future.
Those super-inefficient motors have to have intensive air cooling, so the entire airflow must go through the motor. Thus, all the fine dust must go through the motor. There's probably no other way to build a cheap vacuum cleaner. And anyway, there are always particles small enough to get through all the filters.
@@DiodeGoneWild pokud budeš chtít najít vysavač s motorem, co má vlastní chlazení, tím pádem nasátý bordel neprojde motorem ale jen turbínkou, tak hledej mezi vysavači co pracují s vodou, ty mají motor s vlastním chlazením, takže nasátý prach nikdy neprojde motorem, taky je to pro to, že když nasáváš vodu, tak aby ti vlhký vzduch nešel motorem, nebo když projde pár kapek vody přes pěnový filtr, tak aby ty kapičky nešly skrz motor, taky, když nasáváš vodu, tak motor zvýší otáčky, a průtok vzduchu není tak silný, aby uchladil motor, jen vzniká vakum, který nasává vodu, tak aby byl furt motor chlazenej. Je to líp vymyšlený, protože když u toho ucpeš hadici, tak motor sice zvýší otáčky, ale ta druhá turbínka ho ještě chladí, a chladí tím pádem ještě víc, když se točí rychleji, když ucpu hadici u normálního vysavače, jak je ta Eta Marrel, tak se motor začne celkem rychle ohřívat... Někdy to zkusím do tý doby, než se z toho začne hulit, až najdu nějakej starej novodobej krám :)
@@DiodeGoneWild No. The dust should get captured in a bag or in a bin (if it’s bagless vacuum). Then there should be a filter. Then there should be a motor. No dust in the motor unless filter is never cleaned (is saturated with dust). Or not dust in the motor unless it’s a bad design (filter after motor for example).
Hi, thanks for your excellent video! I want to ask one problem I am facing with my vacuum cleaner (model: Eureka Forbes Trendy Steel Vacuum Cleaner). One day the zip of the dust bag was open and I used the vacuum cleaner in a dusty area and I immediately smelled something wrong. So, I switched off the machine immediately. Then after some days in opened and cleaned the motor of the vacuum cleaner and cleaned all dust and debris. There was no smell of coil getting burnt. I dropped few drops of machine oil on both the bearings. After starting, I could see lots of sparks near the bushes and different smell coming from the machine. Kindly, suggest the probable problem and its solution.
Either the brushes were worn down or the commutator. You could have tried cleaning the commutator with a polishing compound as well as the gaps in the commutator, or changing the brushes if they are chipped.
That is why I will from now on only use genuine dust bags on my new vacuum. These seem to be better in keeping the machine dist free. For example, they have a kind of rubber seal at the entrance to prevent dust from going around the bag.
Sir is it posibel to make pump out of that thing I mean that pump ? What diference betwean tesla pump and other type of pumps? Im working cinde of some thing similar to turbo pumps but I want purely electric super charger ore turbo. Because simplicity vise . I dont use often speed aplication so I need some litel boost some times.
Tu elektroniku (regulátor) jsem si dal do krabičky, a mam ho na svém vysavači, nebo vrtačce, nebo flexe, co mají jen jednu rychlost. A hodně to využívám!
I always found it incredible the crazy amount of power vacuum cleaners need to suck up dust. Consider this scenario - A builder drilling through concrete with a heavy duty 800 watt hammer drill, plus a 1600 watt vacuum cleaner to collect the dust falling from the hole. Is the vacuum cleaner really doing twice the work of the drill? ;-)
I have exactly the same feeling :). The power is crazy. This is partly because they make the motors too small, cheap and inefficient. The air friction is also quite high in all of those filters and in the entire air path. Finally, the problem is that people choose vac cleaners by power. The more power, the better vac cleaner. So the makers are motivated to make them draw as much power as possible, regardless the suction power. But in the last years, EU starts to regulate this.
for a moment I had four vacuum cleaners a cheap (18€) 12V dry/wet vac, 180W (no brand) a cheap (70€) 220V vacuum, 1600W ("Trevi") an expensive (500€) 220V vacuum, 750W (Dyson DC-03) a cheap (59€) 220V dry/wet vacuum, 1000 W ("Powertek") The 18€ vacuum performs the same as the 70€ vacuum, but with much less power (almost a tenth!) and it also can suck up water, the 500€ vacuum performs the same as the 59€ vacuum, but it has better filtration. Conclusion: I love my 12V vacuum ;D
@@MrOpenGL Yep, that figures. I myself go with shop vacuum cleaners for *substantial* suction, and hand-held (battery-operated) units for lighter work; each is a vastly better machine than these power-fetish-pandering junkers (which squander as much or more electricity than the former, for about as much suction as the latter). When you see that a typical fan heater's motor draws
Components in Vacuum cleaner's must be very standardised these days... or maybe just from the same factory in China. I took apart a broken Vacuum a few months ago and many of the big internal components were IDENTICAL to this one.... especially the motor (even including the same foam wrapped around it's case) I will check the motor (I kept it of course) tomorrow to see if it is Kingclean Electric Company.... or see if it has a different "manufacturer".
The impeller has to physically be as light as possible for the most speed. In this case, the impeller is essentially a soda can but it's well protected or should have been. Matthias Wandel has made a few from wood but they often have trouble starting up and getting up to full speed because of weight so he ends up lightening them. - What I don't understand is how that wood block got in there. I have an Electrolux bagless vacuum and the container for the dust has a physical trap for objects. Well worth the money given all the tiny parts I lose in the carpet.
That wasnt't wood block, that was a rubber cube. I think this used to be a part of the machine, rather than sucked in. It was probably to stop the vibration of the motor, but it got loose. Aluminium is probably a good material for the impeller, but its parts were riveted together very lazily. At 30 000 rpm it just flew apart.
Danyk, are you sure that's a vacuum cleaner, or is it an air-raid siren? That wooden cube was probably responsible for the destruction of the impeller. Someone ran it without a bag.
@@DiodeGoneWild i watched some of your very cool, and dangerous expiriments like the chineese latern, chineese portable electrode water heater, the chineese extension cord expiriment, and the fake apple charger. Those videos were my favorite!
That's a shame as it looked like a neat machine, it didn't last very long :-(. i Like the purple mains lead lol :-D That chip has only 4 pins used, can't be much in that chip. That motor style seems universal, i've seen many different vaccum cleaners, and the motor is always the same shape. For motors i was taught the center was the armature and the outer is the field coils, rotor and stator is usually applied to alternators.
zx8401ztv it will probably be the TRIAC driver (zero crossing etc), replacing a DIAC and a few other passives most likely. It is essentially a dimmer switch
i just had mine repaired. symptom: vacuum cleaner doesn't shut off on off position of the potentiometer. and doesn't have an ON/OFF switch. fix: after testing and many components checks, the potentiometer needed a cleanup on its lowest position that shuts the chopper circuit. for reference: LG VC6820NRTQY (2000W)
I also gather that these include the most self-serving application imaginable for a thermal fuse: It's not for fire prevention as normal, but just to cut the miserable burning motor off before it's *completely* shorted out, thereby making them "safe" (barely). They're still the most cynical appliance I know by a long way, of course. My proper *shop* vacuum cleaner doesn't have a thermal fuse, because it doesn't need it (as its efficient motor won't burn itself to a crisp, and a vacuum cleaner is far too noisy anyway to want to leave on unattended.)
They channel the airfow and route it under the blades, through the motor. If they were not there, just an empty chamber, then the air would start to rotate with the blades creating a vortex and would not exit (as fast) from the impeller. So in short, they capture the rotating vortex and make an axial flow out of it. There are two sets of stator vanes actually. The one which is shown (the damaged), those pass out the flow to the perimenter, then underneath there is another set of vanes that direct the flow back into the center if the motor.
I have a very old Electrolux Silverado Deluxe model 1505 (circa 1980-83?). It was my grandparent's vacuum. Over the years my wife has bought and used different vacuum cleaners but we always kept the Electrolux upstairs and used it there. Our newest Dyson just never seemed to clean as well, and now it's broken. So I want to keep my Electrolux in good shape should I take it apart and clean the motor, are there any bearings I can oil?
Very instructive video! Can you please explain about the blue batteries you used to test the motor (about 9.5 minutes into the video). What are the voltages and I assume they were connected in series? Thanks.
Thanks for showing how to open the motor. I'm replacing the front bearing of the rotor right now. It made a horrible sound. The small printboard of my hover looks exactly the same, but the IC is programmed by the manufacturer. They are available online, but empty. The working program must be loaded by the manufacturer.
It always confuses me that how Vacuum clear and it's motor prototect itself from intake dust , i could damage it over time if not properly Filtered but even filter isn't enough for long time . So what's the magic tricks
The airflow sequence: the dust should get captured in a bag or bin, then there should be a filter, then there should be the motor/fan. The motor should not get dusty unless the filter is never cleaned and is saturated with dust, or unless it’s badly designed (the filter is after motor for example which is something I’ve seen).
No, a vacuum cleaner doesn't become that dirty even after many years of usage. Either a bag broke spilling its innards, or the bag was inserted incorrectly causing a leak where the collar of the bag should make a sealed connection to the hose. Especially cheap motors don't take this much dirt well due to the resulting imbalance of the impeller, or seizing up of that impeller. BTW, the foam around the motor is for sound dampening.
Haha, seen larger rotors in a hand tool! Time to put on some gloves and tear apart my vacuum cleaner... it's not feeling well... hopefully just too much dust in its innards.
Excellent video. It's very comprehensive and informative. You're an excellent troubleshooter and have great knowledge of electronics. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.If I had a kingdom, I would ask you if you'd like to be the minister (or chief engineer if you don't like being a paper-pusher) of quality control of all things electronic :)
Me:"Ok, I'm going build an LED night light. I need my set of 15 knipex pliers and snips, my 120 driver set from Wera, my hakko solder station, 30 ft of wire, a 1000 pack of LED's(just in case), a 1000 pack of 30k 3w resistors (just in case.. don't want to run the resistors hot), a 1000 pack of 68k 3w resistors (just in case the night light is too bright), 2 condoms and a dozen project boxes with nema 15p plugs built in. I'm ready..." Diode:" I'm going to take this control mooooduuulle from the Cassini space-a craft apart using a paaairr of tweeeeezers and an old soldering iron that'a I found at a Job'a siiite..." DiodeCat:"Meow" Diode: "OOooh.. Kočka is going to help... I thinka he wants to be astronaut.. " Me 1 hour later:"Why won't the LED turn on? It's... Oh, the wall switch is off...."
you could fix the motor by finding a new fan and plastic assembly if you have them , but being able to buy these for under 14£ on ebay its easier just to buy a brand new motor
If I make a working suction motor, it would be an efficient 700 watt 2 stage switched reluctance motor that sounds like an late 1980s through 1990s vacuum cleaner motor and be very very powerful.
guys would anyone help me with this.. 10:00 taking the motor´s upper cover off. I´ve seen few videos where they did it the same way. however mine is the other way, the upper cover is inside the main cover´s ring, not outside. I´ve tried to pry it out with a knife (screwdriver wouldn´t fit), than a screwdriver, I´ve tried a bit of a power, light hammering, but I don´t know how much can I push it. if it helps the piece is Samsung sc15f50ht (reason is commutator is scratched needs sanding at least hopefully that´ll do) thanks. nice video, quite funny however lots of useful info
I have the original royal 501 hand vacuum from arround 1973 (the one with the metal blade) and I did not have to replace anything other than the belt... because it was made in USA
Newfangled stuff. I have a Hoover vacuum cleaner, bought in 1958. The bearings are shot (it sounds like it's grinding rocks) but it still works fine. No idea where it was made. Probably not China.
The most ridiculous case of planned failure is an electric outboard motor for a boat. Everything is stainless steel, except the one part which makes it fail after a year (the end of the warranty in the USA, here it's 2 years by law). It has the drive pin of the propeller that is not stainless steel but normal steel, therefore it rusts and seals itself in the hole, then it breaks and you can't get it out to put a new one. I had to drill it out and replace it with a stainless steel piece after the dealer told me they don't carry replacement parts for the motor in Europe and I would have had to import them (out of warranty) from the USA at a grand total of 75€ (the cost of the whole motor was 169€!!!!!!), that is for a 2cm length, 3mm diameter steel rod...
Yes, made for the dump ( I wounder when the first vacuum cleaners with fixed dust bags will come , similar to glues batteries in apple products & Microsoft Surface ) ... usually planned obsolescence is referred to made for the dump , while the computer is simply technological obsolescence
Jakej smysl má ten vysavač s univerzálním motorem,když triak odepne pouze v průchodu nulou při sinusovce.Nejspíš kvůli výkonu motoru,chtěl bych vidět ten klasickej motor a takovýma parametrama :D
Jasně že ten vysavač je jen na střídavý napětí. Jenže s indukčním motorem by tam musely bejt převody na rychlo a ještě by ten motor byl větší než celej vysavač. Tenhle motůrek je více méně přímotop, ale zase je malej, levnej a ten vysavač uzvedne i drobná uklízečka. A ostatně, všechen příkon vysavače se postupně změní na teplo. Něco rovnou ztrátama ve vinutí, a ten zbytek vzdušným třením.
@@tusharkabir2970 What about the small suppression capacitor across the main input? I’ve seen that in a couple of devices. Are those motors universal DC motors?
Thank you for some useful info its a shame to spend so much money to buy junk Made in China as far as it all goes all vacuumed seem to suffer the same problems And most of them are made in China so the story is its so much a treat to learn something new to handle the chaotic episodes the randomly occur like a complete malfunction Or a mechanical meltdown of some kind best to keep it as clean as possible Thank you for sharing
When he stuck that screwdriver into the socket, I knew I'd have to stick around and keep watching!
With two hands and both sides of the circuit exposed, rather dangerous indeed.
Thank you for this video. You have exposed the hypocrisy of manufacturers which make products with inferior/unreliable parts while they also claim that they are concerned about the environment which they are filling up with their badly designed products with poor quality parts.
Love the test with the meter, very safe
This is the point I realized that this video won't teach me how vacum cleaners works:D I was interested in how sucction works and how to make it efficient.
Sounds like an air raid siren
Fu Sensei yes
Fu Sensei yeah :D
Yeah
@@whackowafer4765 yes i can do that. I work as a siren installer in united states. I can just put a vacuum cleaner motor on a pole that was remade into a siren! Lol ( i can't do that because a vacuum motor is not a siren)
I was about to write that
I have a vacuum very similar to this. I had to replace the motor because the brushes/comutator started arcing/sparking really badly. The new motor only cost £12 so pretty cheap. I hope the fan blades don't fail in it. I tested it on DC with my bench PSU at max possible voltage (33+33V in series) and current (3.2A) and it ran much better on DC than AC with no arcing. The new motor does pump out quite a lot of hot air out the back so I only use it for short periods.
The motor runs at 30,000 RPM so it can destroy pretty soon
Those series wound motors can be quite efficient if constructed properly. They need a soft start for the inrush current, bigger blades, wider air channels and lower rpm. The power consumption could easily be cut down to around 500 W.
Edit: the chip is a 8-Bit microcontroller up to 16 MHz with 2 interrupts, 2 timers, 2 kb ROM, and much more. This µC is perfect for creating phase angle controllers, with or without soft start, even current limiting is possible.
i disagree. that badly designed vacuum cleaners are built only for high rev runs. if you will let it rotate only on 500W it will almost have no suction. i will prefer more heavy vacuum cleaner with 550W induction motor. it is enough. look at the saw dust blowers for small wood workshops. 110mm hose and 1000Pa of sucking power. and it runs only at 2850rpms.
That's basically what I said. Bigger blades (i.e. bigger impeller), lower rpm, wider air channels. An induction motor runs at a fixed speed if you run it from the mains. Otherwise you'd need a VF which makes it expensive. Series wound motors can be controlled quite easily with a Triac and a rather simple circuit. And they are very efficient if designed properly. The now commercially used high-speed motors are very inefficient due to losses in the rotor and the large eddy currents in the stator's steel sheets.
ojojojo, może sterować odkurzaczem przy uzyciu laptopa? z procesorem I7? JA pierdole , ludzie, czy wy jesteście juz takimi durniami że do sterowania gównianym silnikiem komutatorowym wymyslonym w czasach dinozaurów chcecie uzywać mikroprocesorów? mózgi przegrzane od onanizmu
Jedno video ma o striedavých jednofázových motoroch naučilo viac ako niekoľkohodinová výučba v škole. 👍
Could it be possible that the excess dust around the motor gets sucked in from the the outside due to non sealed motor compartment? because your filters look fairly clean.
This is precisely why I hate modern vacuum cleaners, cheap, loud, poorly made and just a pain in the arse to fix, not to mention single-stage motors are just too weak to be any good, a decent two-stage motor is essential for a good clean-air vac... :)
Miele uses an 18 bladed single stage motor that spins at lower rpms than shark and dyson. It's one of the only few brands of modern vacuums that are actually good.
I hate modern vacuum cleaners which are really weak. A real vacuum cleaner should have at least 2000watts
Alexandru Vasiliu In the United States portable vacuum cleaners cannot exceed 1500 watts due to national electric code and UL. In North America where I live has 120 volt 60 hertz mains. If you want a really good clean air vacuum, a central vacuum with dual oversized lamb electric motors is mandatory.
Ha, you fools, you all were tricked by the vacuum companies, they trick you into getting a higher power vacuum, but in reality, the motor is just more inefficient to use more power.
@@davidperry4013 stop being Miele shill. You’re stupid if you buy a new vacuum these days that is not bagless.
I have an electrolux vacuum cleaner, the motor is exactly the same, the same screws and so on. My problem was that the rubber seal went bad so it wasn't sucking the air properly. The motor itself was fine, no broken fins.
Since you seem to be in the market for a new vacuum, I can recommend the Meile ones, they're quite quiet and good for the money, which isn't that much. I am surprised they don't have some kind of outlet fan to keep the dust out of the machine on the vacuum you took apart.
When you fired the motor and zoomed in on the carbon brushes it looked like it was going to travel though time like in Back to the Future.
Those super-inefficient motors have to have intensive air cooling, so the entire airflow must go through the motor. Thus, all the fine dust must go through the motor. There's probably no other way to build a cheap vacuum cleaner. And anyway, there are always particles small enough to get through all the filters.
@@DiodeGoneWild pokud budeš chtít najít vysavač s motorem, co má vlastní chlazení, tím pádem nasátý bordel neprojde motorem ale jen turbínkou, tak hledej mezi vysavači co pracují s vodou, ty mají motor s vlastním chlazením, takže nasátý prach nikdy neprojde motorem, taky je to pro to, že když nasáváš vodu, tak aby ti vlhký vzduch nešel motorem, nebo když projde pár kapek vody přes pěnový filtr, tak aby ty kapičky nešly skrz motor, taky, když nasáváš vodu, tak motor zvýší otáčky, a průtok vzduchu není tak silný, aby uchladil motor, jen vzniká vakum, který nasává vodu, tak aby byl furt motor chlazenej.
Je to líp vymyšlený, protože když u toho ucpeš hadici, tak motor sice zvýší otáčky, ale ta druhá turbínka ho ještě chladí, a chladí tím pádem ještě víc, když se točí rychleji, když ucpu hadici u normálního vysavače, jak je ta Eta Marrel, tak se motor začne celkem rychle ohřívat... Někdy to zkusím do tý doby, než se z toho začne hulit, až najdu nějakej starej novodobej krám :)
@@DiodeGoneWild No. The dust should get captured in a bag or in a bin (if it’s bagless vacuum). Then there should be a filter. Then there should be a motor.
No dust in the motor unless filter is never cleaned (is saturated with dust). Or not dust in the motor unless it’s a bad design (filter after motor for example).
Excellent accent! :-D
I'm pretty sure that the wooden block you found sent that flimsy metal impeller to Valhalla.
Ahhh thanks! I didn’t think of that
Now just turn it up a little bit,
*ramps up to absolute Maximum turns* xD
Hi, thanks for your excellent video!
I want to ask one problem I am facing with my vacuum cleaner (model: Eureka Forbes Trendy Steel Vacuum Cleaner). One day the zip of the dust bag was open and I used the vacuum cleaner in a dusty area and I immediately smelled something wrong. So, I switched off the machine immediately. Then after some days in opened and cleaned the motor of the vacuum cleaner and cleaned all dust and debris. There was no smell of coil getting burnt. I dropped few drops of machine oil on both the bearings. After starting, I could see lots of sparks near the bushes and different smell coming from the machine.
Kindly, suggest the probable problem and its solution.
Either the brushes were worn down or the commutator. You could have tried cleaning the commutator with a polishing compound as well as the gaps in the commutator, or changing the brushes if they are chipped.
That is why I will from now on only use genuine dust bags on my new vacuum. These seem to be better in keeping the machine dist free. For example, they have a kind of rubber seal at the entrance to prevent dust from going around the bag.
I don't know what this accent is but it's amazing.
Sir is it posibel to make pump out of that thing I mean that pump ?
What diference betwean tesla pump and other type of pumps?
Im working cinde of some thing similar to turbo pumps but I want purely electric super charger ore turbo.
Because simplicity vise .
I dont use often speed aplication so I need some litel boost some times.
Did you reassemble it
Which one shorts usually or more often, the stator or the rotor windings?
the rotor
Very interesting testing with the 18650 batteries!
Nice explaination, thanks for the video.
Raid siren sound!
Tu elektroniku (regulátor) jsem si dal do krabičky, a mam ho na svém vysavači, nebo vrtačce, nebo flexe, co mají jen jednu rychlost. A hodně to využívám!
Fantastic video! You could give this thing a second life and velcro it to your car roof.
It sounds like me when I step on a Lego
Its not an vacum cleaner its an tornado/nuke/tsunami siren
I always found it incredible the crazy amount of power vacuum cleaners need to suck up dust. Consider this scenario - A builder drilling through concrete with a heavy duty 800 watt hammer drill, plus a 1600 watt vacuum cleaner to collect the dust falling from the hole. Is the vacuum cleaner really doing twice the work of the drill? ;-)
I have exactly the same feeling :). The power is crazy. This is partly because they make the motors too small, cheap and inefficient. The air friction is also quite high in all of those filters and in the entire air path. Finally, the problem is that people choose vac cleaners by power. The more power, the better vac cleaner. So the makers are motivated to make them draw as much power as possible, regardless the suction power. But in the last years, EU starts to regulate this.
for a moment I had four vacuum cleaners
a cheap (18€) 12V dry/wet vac, 180W (no brand)
a cheap (70€) 220V vacuum, 1600W ("Trevi")
an expensive (500€) 220V vacuum, 750W (Dyson DC-03)
a cheap (59€) 220V dry/wet vacuum, 1000 W ("Powertek")
The 18€ vacuum performs the same as the 70€ vacuum, but with much less power (almost a tenth!) and it also can suck up water, the 500€ vacuum performs the same as the 59€ vacuum, but it has better filtration.
Conclusion: I love my 12V vacuum ;D
@@MrOpenGL Yep, that figures. I myself go with shop vacuum cleaners for *substantial* suction, and hand-held (battery-operated) units for lighter work; each is a vastly better machine than these power-fetish-pandering junkers (which squander as much or more electricity than the former, for about as much suction as the latter).
When you see that a typical fan heater's motor draws
@@DiodeGoneWild Don't forget the leakage. Anyway, 6 years later, vacuum cleaner power has come down and efficiency went up.
0:08 sounds like an air raid siren
Thank you very much!
The IC is SONiX 8-Bit Micro-Controller SN8P2501B
But why?
I have been using a 30 year old vacuum cleaner from eurica fobes(I got the spelling wrong ) and it still works fine!!!
Components in Vacuum cleaner's must be very standardised these days... or maybe just from the same factory in China.
I took apart a broken Vacuum a few months ago and many of the big internal components were IDENTICAL to this one.... especially the motor (even including the same foam wrapped around it's case)
I will check the motor (I kept it of course) tomorrow to see if it is Kingclean Electric Company.... or see if it has a different "manufacturer".
The impeller has to physically be as light as possible for the most speed. In this case, the impeller is essentially a soda can but it's well protected or should have been. Matthias Wandel has made a few from wood but they often have trouble starting up and getting up to full speed because of weight so he ends up lightening them.
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What I don't understand is how that wood block got in there. I have an Electrolux bagless vacuum and the container for the dust has a physical trap for objects. Well worth the money given all the tiny parts I lose in the carpet.
That wasnt't wood block, that was a rubber cube. I think this used to be a part of the machine, rather than sucked in. It was probably to stop the vibration of the motor, but it got loose. Aluminium is probably a good material for the impeller, but its parts were riveted together very lazily. At 30 000 rpm it just flew apart.
U need a vacuum cleaner to clean the vacuum cleaner 😂
you explained well man thx
Danyk, are you sure that's a vacuum cleaner, or is it an air-raid siren? That wooden cube was probably responsible for the destruction of the impeller. Someone ran it without a bag.
How long did it work , before it broke ?
Its construction is exactly like my LG vacuum.
All the cheap vac cleaners are made more or less the same way because there is no other way to build a cheap vac cleaner :).
hi there, DiodeGoneWild!
@@DiodeGoneWild i watched some of your very cool, and dangerous expiriments like the chineese latern, chineese portable electrode water heater, the chineese extension cord expiriment, and the fake apple charger. Those videos were my favorite!
@@DiodeGoneWild i subscribed to you! :)
EVEN MORE SAAALLLTT
That's a shame as it looked like a neat machine, it didn't last very long :-(.
i Like the purple mains lead lol :-D
That chip has only 4 pins used, can't be much in that chip.
That motor style seems universal, i've seen many different vaccum cleaners, and the motor is always the same shape.
For motors i was taught the center was the armature and the outer is the field coils, rotor and stator is usually applied to alternators.
zx8401ztv it will probably be the TRIAC driver (zero crossing etc), replacing a DIAC and a few other passives most likely. It is essentially a dimmer switch
What type of motor is it???
i just had mine repaired.
symptom: vacuum cleaner doesn't shut off on off position of the potentiometer. and doesn't have an ON/OFF switch.
fix: after testing and many components checks, the potentiometer needed a cleanup on its lowest position that shuts the chopper circuit.
for reference: LG VC6820NRTQY (2000W)
I also gather that these include the most self-serving application imaginable for a thermal fuse: It's not for fire prevention as normal, but just to cut the miserable burning motor off before it's *completely* shorted out, thereby making them "safe" (barely). They're still the most cynical appliance I know by a long way, of course.
My proper *shop* vacuum cleaner doesn't have a thermal fuse, because it doesn't need it (as its efficient motor won't burn itself to a crisp, and a vacuum cleaner is far too noisy anyway to want to leave on unattended.)
You are a wild man. Your “field test” skills are scary.
That vacuum cleaner could be used as a tornado siren.
I love your English accent .
Is it gaven to you for repair?
I love this guys accent,
could be used for some other projects !!!!
Can anyone please explain: the plastic blades that seem to be curved the opposite way to the airflow path.. what are they for?
They channel the airfow and route it under the blades, through the motor. If they were not there, just an empty chamber, then the air would start to rotate with the blades creating a vortex and would not exit (as fast) from the impeller.
So in short, they capture the rotating vortex and make an axial flow out of it.
There are two sets of stator vanes actually. The one which is shown (the damaged), those pass out the flow to the perimenter, then underneath there is another set of vanes that direct the flow back into the center if the motor.
nice work
Beautiful.
Great video.
I have a very old Electrolux Silverado Deluxe model 1505 (circa 1980-83?). It was my grandparent's vacuum. Over the years my wife has bought and used different vacuum cleaners but we always kept the Electrolux upstairs and used it there. Our newest Dyson just never seemed to clean as well, and now it's broken. So I want to keep my Electrolux in good shape should I take it apart and clean the motor, are there any bearings I can oil?
Very instructive video! Can you please explain about the blue batteries you used to test the motor (about 9.5 minutes into the video). What are the voltages and I assume they were connected in series? Thanks.
Thank you so much your video helped me
9:38 motor can start from 3 volt!????
More like 7.4V.
The batteries provide sufficient current to run this universal motor.
More like 8.4v if fully charged batteries. Enough voltage to turn it slowly, yeah.
superb explanation
Thanks for showing how to open the motor. I'm replacing the front bearing of the rotor right now. It made a horrible sound.
The small printboard of my hover looks exactly the same, but the IC is programmed by the manufacturer. They are available online, but empty. The working program must be loaded by the manufacturer.
It always confuses me that how Vacuum clear and it's motor prototect itself from intake dust , i could damage it over time if not properly Filtered but even filter isn't enough for long time . So what's the magic tricks
The airflow sequence: the dust should get captured in a bag or bin, then there should be a filter, then there should be the motor/fan.
The motor should not get dusty unless the filter is never cleaned and is saturated with dust, or unless it’s badly designed (the filter is after motor for example which is something I’ve seen).
No, a vacuum cleaner doesn't become that dirty even after many years of usage. Either a bag broke spilling its innards, or the bag was inserted incorrectly causing a leak where the collar of the bag should make a sealed connection to the hose. Especially cheap motors don't take this much dirt well due to the resulting imbalance of the impeller, or seizing up of that impeller. BTW, the foam around the motor is for sound dampening.
16:11 I want more! I want flamezz! :D
nice siren
Hi bro I want motor top side impler.my vacuum damage in this part
1:21 its 3 am i am about to go fall asleep and now i am fully awake after this moment.
Where are you from?
Haha, seen larger rotors in a hand tool!
Time to put on some gloves and tear apart my vacuum cleaner... it's not feeling well... hopefully just too much dust in its innards.
Excellent video. It's very comprehensive and informative. You're an excellent troubleshooter and have great knowledge of electronics. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.If I had a kingdom, I would ask you if you'd like to be the minister (or chief engineer if you don't like being a paper-pusher) of quality control of all things electronic :)
Where is he from?
How much did that vacuum cleaner cost?
not much, about 50 dollars.
Me:"Ok, I'm going build an LED night light. I need my set of 15 knipex pliers and snips, my 120 driver set from Wera, my hakko solder station, 30 ft of wire, a 1000 pack of LED's(just in case), a 1000 pack of 30k 3w resistors (just in case.. don't want to run the resistors hot), a 1000 pack of 68k 3w resistors (just in case the night light is too bright), 2 condoms and a dozen project boxes with nema 15p plugs built in. I'm ready..."
Diode:" I'm going to take this control mooooduuulle from the Cassini space-a craft apart using a paaairr of tweeeeezers and an old soldering iron that'a I found at a Job'a siiite..."
DiodeCat:"Meow"
Diode: "OOooh.. Kočka is going to help... I thinka he wants to be astronaut.. "
Me 1 hour later:"Why won't the LED turn on? It's... Oh, the wall switch is off...."
Pretty accurate
you could fix the motor by finding a new fan and plastic assembly if you have them , but being able to buy these for under 14£ on ebay its easier just to buy a brand new motor
A siren, Sounds like someone just escaped from prison.
Some expensive brands use brushless motors
1:36 don't try this at home, lab. or whereever!
Can I use vacuum cleaner for high voltage plasma exp??
If I make a working suction motor, it would be an efficient 700 watt 2 stage switched reluctance motor that sounds like an late 1980s through 1990s vacuum cleaner motor and be very very powerful.
I love the hum that it makes something with my vac I just barely turn it on then off again quickly just to hear that hummmmmmmmm.
I hit that subscribe button for that English accent fella. :)
Good job sir
Sounds like a federal signal STH-10 siren
Nicely explained.tkq
9:27 got me so good lmaooo
Feels like I’m watching Tony Stark invent the Iron Man suit.
Nobody: Škoda Felicja without exhaust at 3AM: 0:08
How to open motor?? I can't figure out, stuck on this stage from last week. Urgent help needed. Thanks.
guys would anyone help me with this.. 10:00 taking the motor´s upper cover off. I´ve seen few videos where they did it the same way. however mine is the other way, the upper cover is inside the main cover´s ring, not outside. I´ve tried to pry it out with a knife (screwdriver wouldn´t fit), than a screwdriver, I´ve tried a bit of a power, light hammering, but I don´t know how much can I push it.
if it helps the piece is Samsung sc15f50ht
(reason is commutator is scratched needs sanding at least hopefully that´ll do)
thanks. nice video, quite funny however lots of useful info
This video gave me a nerdgasm🤓
11:28 Fist fighter ???
I have the original royal 501 hand vacuum from arround 1973 (the one with the metal blade) and I did not have to replace anything other than the belt... because it was made in USA
Newfangled stuff. I have a Hoover vacuum cleaner, bought in 1958. The bearings are shot (it sounds like it's grinding rocks) but it still works fine. No idea where it was made. Probably not China.
@Joachim Shekelberg To be fair planned obsolescence is nothing new. I don't expect to last more than about 85-ish years in total myself.
I like your accent
Are you Czech?
He is Czech having very bad accent. :-)
@@peterx7623 Charming accent.
It's universal
It absolutely obvious had been made for the junk
( = Planned Obsolescence ) with multiple weaknesses
Yes, that's surely a planned obsolescence. Or a planned failure (because obsolescence usually comes with things like computers or smartphones).
The most ridiculous case of planned failure is an electric outboard motor for a boat. Everything is stainless steel, except the one part which makes it fail after a year (the end of the warranty in the USA, here it's 2 years by law). It has the drive pin of the propeller that is not stainless steel but normal steel, therefore it rusts and seals itself in the hole, then it breaks and you can't get it out to put a new one. I had to drill it out and replace it with a stainless steel piece after the dealer told me they don't carry replacement parts for the motor in Europe and I would have had to import them (out of warranty) from the USA at a grand total of 75€ (the cost of the whole motor was 169€!!!!!!), that is for a 2cm length, 3mm diameter steel rod...
Yes, made for the dump ( I wounder when the first vacuum cleaners with fixed dust bags will come , similar to glues batteries in apple products & Microsoft Surface ) ...
usually planned obsolescence is referred to made for the dump , while the computer is simply technological obsolescence
Jakej smysl má ten vysavač s univerzálním motorem,když triak odepne pouze v průchodu nulou při sinusovce.Nejspíš kvůli výkonu motoru,chtěl bych vidět ten klasickej motor a takovýma parametrama :D
Jasně že ten vysavač je jen na střídavý napětí. Jenže s indukčním motorem by tam musely bejt převody na rychlo a ještě by ten motor byl větší než celej vysavač. Tenhle motůrek je více méně přímotop, ale zase je malej, levnej a ten vysavač uzvedne i drobná uklízečka. A ostatně, všechen příkon vysavače se postupně změní na teplo. Něco rovnou ztrátama ve vinutí, a ten zbytek vzdušným třením.
You need a vacuum cleaner to vacuum clean the vacuum cleaner during repair -;)
You need a vacuum to clean that vacuum.
good job clouseau
No schematic this time?
why universal motor doesn't need run capacitor like the induction motor??
thanks for your response
No.
It is because the universal notor is kind of dc motor but the ac motor requires a capacitor to shuft the current forwards.
@@tusharkabir2970 What about the small suppression capacitor across the main input? I’ve seen that in a couple of devices. Are those motors universal DC motors?
I'm surprised that the sparks from the brushes don't set the built up pieces of dust on fire, lol
Thank you for some useful info its a shame to spend so much money to buy junk
Made in China as far as it all goes all vacuumed seem to suffer the same problems
And most of them are made in China so the story is its so much a treat to learn something new to handle the chaotic episodes the randomly occur like a complete malfunction
Or a mechanical meltdown of some kind best to keep it as clean as possible
Thank you for sharing