How to Trouble Shoot a Leaking Backflow Assembly
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2018
- I will go through a Wilkins 975XL assembly that is leaking that a customer dropped off. I go through some basic RP trouble shooting pertaining to this particular 975XL brought in. I do not cover everything in this video as it didn't have multiple issues. Visit my web page backflow-supply.com/ or facebook at BackflowSupply
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What an educational video. Thorough and succinct explanation. Thank you
Sean was most helpful. I called him needing answers, which he quickly provided. I went to his store, he cleaned up some of the parts and sold me what I needed. My Backflow Assembly works like new for a fraction of the cost of a new one. Thanks
Thanks for taking the time to explain something like this, and even welcoming questions and video suggestions. Much appreciated, we could use more people who want to help like this
Great video! I could see there was a lot of prep work you had to do to set up the valve for this video. Well Done!
Great explanation. Really helps a home owner do it them selves. Thanks.
Correction. Yes you are a videographer. You just don't realize it. This instruction video is as good as it gets on TH-cam.
Great video! Thank you for showing us how to trouble shoot this! Greatly appreciated
Great video! I feel confident about going ahead and tackle my problem. Thanks!!!
We had the exact same problem recently,. We had a professional come out any cleaned out both of the check valves and flipped both washers to the unused side. This seem to fix the issue. Then he tested the Delta pressure across the check valves and everything was within spec. Thank you for this instructional video. It was very useful to help me understand what was going on.
Thank You!
From Chicago .
Your video skills are spot on. Don’t you worry.
Very helpful
Thanks!
Great demonstration. You clarify the operation very well. This is my first experience with a backflow valve. Thanks for a well prepared instructions. I'm looking forward to view your explanation of the valve seat replacement.
I did do a video about these. It is here th-cam.com/video/j2wjlbnI2Dk/w-d-xo.html Let me know if you need more information than this video shows.
Nicely done. Very straightforward. I have a valve just like this that is leaking and now have no fear about checking it and possibly repairing it. We just bought the house, which is 25 years old, and has a lot of deferred maintenance. The water pressure is 80lbs, so we will need a pressure regulator too.
Thanks Monty. Let me know if you have any questions or need parts. 801-355-6736
Thanks for the great information on this backflow preventer
Thank you. My valve, which I installed myself to please the water district, is 16 years old. This leak happened only once before today. That was 10 years ago. I forgot what what I did to fix it last time. I watched a more technical video earlier today that gave me the confidence to tackle the leak. It amazing what I remembered. But your video confirmed for me I made the repair correctly. No stones or debris. Nothing I could see but a depression of wear in the washer so I flipped it over. Repaired for zero cost. Again, thank you.
You are welcome. Just know flipping the disc won't last as long as before you flipped it as it is hitting in the same spot as the side you just flipped. It now doesn't have any support or strength on the other side. It is intended to be a temporary fix.
Nice overview and explanation. Thank you!
Thanks for the excellent explanation of the back flow prevention system and how th trouble shoot!
Thanks. I hope it was helpful.
Thank you so much, I fixed mine after watched your video
Tien, glad you found this helpful and you were able to get it fixed.
Sean
Great video keep em coming
Thank you for your video... very helpful 👌
good video and information. Helpful.
Another great video. thanks
Good video and great explanation. Thanks.
Thanks.
Great video. Thank you.
Nice video! Thank you sir!
Thank you very much! My problem was exactly as described here. Fixed it myself and saved an expense service call from my plumber.
Good video. I could have use the Shut Off tool on all the thousands of shutoff's I worked over the years.
Very helpful - Thanks!
Thanks! That worked to fix my leak!!
FANTASTIC!
Thank you. Do you have a video of the disassembley of the vent portion of the backflow device?
I think you did fine, thanks. Living in Florida we have the annual tests for this.
Very helpful!
Good video
Thank you!
Thank you.
Is there a way I can send you a video of the problem I am having? I’ve cleaned and reseated the two pop-its, checked the gaskets, and flushed all areas. Still have water coming from the hole in the center of the relief check.
Great video, thanks for posting. My backflow valve is leading through the center small hole in the diagraph cover. When I put my finger over the small hole, I can feel it pulsating. I put a new gasket on the diaphragm cover and it stopped the leak for 2 days and then it started leaking again. I also cleaned out the 2 valves and inspected them and also changed the o-rings. What causes the water to be pushed through the small hole in the diagraph cover. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
On the Wilkins 975XL there are 3 reasons it can leak out the center hole on the relief valve cover. One is the o-ring on the relief valve stem that fits into the center of that cover is nicked or torn. Another reason is the plastic piece the o-ring sits around is cracked or damaged. And the last reason is that inside the cover where the o-ring needs to seal is pitted or has corrosion that is not allowing the o-ring to seal or is damaging the o-ring.
Feel free to call me or email me. 801-355-6736 or sean@backflow-supply.com
The test cock #2 no water when you test RP backflow preventer, How to deal with it? Thanks!
explain food lube??? thanks for the info.
Thank you very much for this video. This is so helpful. May I ask you a question? I have to replace a 3/4 valve with a bleeder in my system. I'd like to understand why one valve has a bleeder and the other doesn't? Does it matter which one has a bleeder from the other two? Thank you.
i do not know what you mean by you need to replace a 3/4" bleeder in your system. When you say system are you referring to just the backflow assembly? Do you have the Wilkins 975XL or 975XL2 model? When you say bleeder are you referring to the test cock, the valve with the screw driver slot in it? Is it the one on the inlet ball valve? The inlet is supposed to have a test cock on it. So if you want to replace the test cock only you can. If you have to replace the ball valve with the test cock in it you can get that ball valve, but most models just come tapped and threaded and you can usually just take the old test cock out and reuse it. If you need to replace the ball valve on the outlet side of the assembly it doesn't have a test cock.
If you need to send me pictures you can email me at sean@backflow-supply.com or call at 801-355-6736 on Monday. I will be out in the morning, but will respond to your email or call as soon as I can.
Sean
Thank you for troubleshooting! Sometimes I do wonder why it drips from the relieve port.
I appreciate it very much
Hopefully I gave enough info to help you figure it out. If not contact me again.
His explanation of why the relief valve spilled water was incorrect.
@@jimrylander9143
Why, explain?
Hi great video. I have a small, steady drip coming from the small home in the center of the pressure relief valve of my 975XL. Unfortunately I’ve removed the bolts holding the pressure relief valve on, but I cannot figure out how to take off the round side of the PRV to check if it needs cleaned out. I’ve tried to tap it with a rubber mallet without success.
Jason, if I am understanding you correctly you can't get the relief valve stem assembly out of the cover. That should just pull out. The only thing holding it in is an o-ring on the stem that goes into the cover. Sometimes they can be hard to get out. Just pull a little harder.
My concern is you might have some corrosion build up inside and may have started to pit the inside of the relief valve cover. You will have to take it apart and inspect it.
If you need more help you can call me at 801-355-6736 or email me at sean@backflow-supply.com
@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 thanks very much for your response. I actually am unable to easily pry apart the cover of the pressure relief valve (the round, disc-shaped cover). I suppose I need to use a flathead screwdriver or something to gently pry it apart along it's outer edge.
@@miles267 You could also use a hammer to lightly tap the side of the cover to break it loose.
you did a great job. i wonder if the leakage is directly from a small hole right in the middle of the releaf valve. when i blocked the leakage, some of the leakage occurred at the check valve 2. any comment? does it mean i only need to open the relief valve. and where to get the parts? I have exact the same model 975XL. thanks much.
It would be helpful if we talk on the phone if possible. But the hole in the center of the relief valve cover is there by design. It needs to push air through that as the relief valve moves back and forth. If it didn't it would be stuck do to suction.
I am not sure how leakage would have occurred at the check valve 2 that you would see. I am not sure if you are referring to one of the test cocks that come off the side that have the screwdriver slot or not. But check valve #2 is the portion of the body that points down behind the relief valve portion and has the thread on/off cover.
Give me a call 801-355-6736 if you want to talk about your issues in greater detail.
I am certified to test and repair. Had my own business for over 11 years and am retired now. You are putting the washer holding the disk to the poppet in backwards. The beveled side of the washer is supposed to be against the disc so that as the disc swells (as discs do over time) the washer will not cut the disc. What would be the purpose of beveling the other side? If it was not touching the disc what would be the reason for beveling the washer? If you take apart a new Wilkins 985XL you will find the beveled side is against the disc from the factory. Good video otherwise.
I have been told differently from different testers through the years which way it should go. The one reason that I have been told to have the bevel away from the washer is so that the flat side will hold the disc tighter to the poppet.
Honestly, I have not seen any issue either way and it is not listed in the repair and maintenance instructions on how to put the washer back on when replacing the disc.
I have also just pulled and inspected several of the poppet assemblies in my stock assembled at Wilkins and the bevel on every one is away from the disc.
You do bring up a good point, what is the purpose of beveling the washer? I will send an email to Wilkins and see if I get an answer.
I did send an email to Wilkins and asked the question about which way the seal ring retainer or the metal washer should go. The engineer called me and said that it is not even called out to be beveled and he believes the beveled edge may be the result of removing a sharp edge from manufacturing not a requirement for performance.
I told him that the poppet assemblies I have in stock that came from Wilkins do have the bevel away from the rubber disc, not against it. He said if that is the way they are coming then that is probably the way they should go back on. But he does not believe that it will make a difference in performance either way. This has been my experience in my 21 years doing this as well.
@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 It was taught in class, and at every review class, that the beveled edge is placed against the disc to reduce the possibility of cutting the disc when it swells. Discs that have been in working valves for a long time sometimes swell considerably and blow up to cover the edge of the washer so I could see that this as the reason for the beveled edge. Every new Wilkins 975XL or 950, or ones that are in service that I opened and appeared to be opened for the first time, has the beveled edge toward the disc indicating to me that is the way they come from the factory as the correct position.
It may also mean the the instructors possibly made that up just tell you something to make and you think they know something important!
Either way, good channel.
Great video but I am also getting a small drip from the hole in the middle of the diaphragm cover. Does this require a new diaphragm?
Ken, a leak out of the pin hole on the cover is the result of one of three things, or a combination of them. One is the o-ring on the relief valve stem that goes into the cover is damaged or broken. Second is the stem where the o-ring sits is cracked or broken. And lastly is the cover plate where the o-ring should seal is corroded or pitted. Sometimes if it is only corroded you can carefully chip it off and clean it up and it will solve your problem. But if it has been on long enough to have pitted the brass you will need a new cover plate.
My Febco 825Y does not have a plastic seat. Should it?
The seal presses internally on cast brass seat.
Also, it does no have a relief valve.
Should it?
I replaced all, but I can see at the water meter, the little spinner twirls when it's on.
Shouldn't my zone valves stop that?
Steve, the 825Y does not have plastic replaceable seats. Depending on the age of yours it may have brass replaceable seats.
If you have an 825Y it has a relief valve. This is the assembly that comes off the side and depending on the size of the assembly 4-6 or 8 bolts to hold the cover on.
You replaced all what? Not sure what you mean by the water meter spinner twirling and zone valves stopping that. You may have more than one problem.
I need more information from you. Please call me or email me. 801-355-6736 or sean@backflow-supply.com.
Hi, what does it mean when water is shooting out of the little tiny hold on the side of the bottom next to the bottom vent. At 2:55 in your video it would be shooting out to the right.
That would be one of three issues. Take that round cover off by removing the six bolts. When you take it off the relief valve stem assembly will probably be stuck to the inside of the cover. Pull it out. It would only be held in by the o-ring in the end of the stem. That part that was stuck in the over is what you need to look at. The first issue could be the o-ring on the end of the stem that fits in the cover. It could be cracked, broken, hardened and shrunk a little allowing water by and out the hole on the relief valve cover. The second issue would be the plastic piece the o-ring goes on is cracked or broken. And lastly, the cover where the o-ring needs to seal may have corrosion or be pitted. Take a look at those things. You can contact me by calling 801-355-6736 or emailing me at sean@backflow-supply.com which may be the best way this time of year.
Can you make a video showing how to unseat the plastic beads from inside the number 2 check valve? Thanks!
What do you mean by the plastic beads? If you are referring the the plastic stubs that point into the center of the seat section you just need a flat piece of metal to make contact on two of them and unthread it. I did do a video about the various tools but a lot of homeowners have gotten creative. Here is the link to the other video.
@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 No worries, I figured it out. Thanks for your informative videos.
I have a Wilkins 975XL .25-.50 that is used between my hot water heater and my floor heater boiler for backflow and is leaking. I assume the principles are the same no matter what the size is correct?
Yes. The principal is the same. Follow the same trouble shooting and the parts are similar. It come apart the same way.
Thanks for the vid. Why would rocks be coming trough this? Would repairs by the utility down the line cause these rocks? Thx.
Sorry for the delay in responding. Rocks can come from breaks ahead of the backflow most likely on your own property or from the utility side.
I have never repair a backflow preventer, only installed them. I am considering doing a repair on this very one. Just wondering what the success rate might be for repairs in general. I have one 2 hours away from me and the new replacement cost is $600 above what the kit cost. This is sight unseen and I only know water pours out at the bottom. Just trying to decide if I should do the repair or replace the unit. Any suggestions would bew welcome. This doesn't seem to complicated.
Marty. I would ask some questions before you go. Is this on a lawn sprinkler system? How long has this been pouring out the bottom? If it is on a lawn sprinkler system does it stop pouring out the bottom when a zone is on? If it is not on a sprinkler system can you get a greater flow through the assembly to something you can open downstream and see if it stops pouring out the bottom when the flow is going through? This will help you to determine if the issue is in the #1 check or the relief valve. If you suspect backpressure is an issue shut the #2 shut off, off and see if it stops pouring out the bottom. Is this in a place that it could have frozen? Not sure what the kit is that you have but I would take the one that has everything in it if you have to go 2 hours to do it. If you want to discuss this more call me at 801-355-6736 or email me at sean@backflow-supply.com.
What if the inlet valve is not stopping the water flow? I have to turn the water off at the street main valve. Is that a bad inlet valve? And I have a number 4 test cock that is leaking. Can that number 4 test cock be repaired with plumbers tape? I repaired the number one (1) check with a repair kit and the relief valve still leaks. I will repair the relief valve next. Thanks.
Paul, yes it sounds like your #1 shut off is bad if when you turn it off it still lets water come through. Does it slow it down at all?
As for the #4 test cock it depends on why it is leaking and where it is leaking from if plumbers tape will fit it. And when you say plumbers tape I am assuming you mean a teflon type tape.
If you need to you can call me at 801-355-6736 or email me at sean@backflow-supply.com
I need to replace the small ball cock valves on top where the handles are on each side of the main valve. The handles became so corroded because where they were attached had deteriorated. What is your suggestion?
Ben, I can't tell if this is the same question worded differently than the one I just responded to you about or not. But contact me with the info in the last reply if you still need to talk about it.
You mentioned that the washer has a "beveled edge" that goes under the head of the screw. The washer just looked flat to me.
Do you mean it is slightly concave?
In either case, could you be more specific on what way that the metal washer should go? What are we looking for?
Thanks,
Crzzy1
The washer shouldn't be concaved. It should be flat. But one side should extend a fraction wider than the other side. The side that should go against the washer is the longer side. And the edge of this side feels a little more sharp. The other side that is away from the rubber disc is more rounded.
I have found out since that according to Wilkins it doesn't matter, but I have had an experienced technician of several decades tell me it does matter.
I think over time the washer might not be as easy to distinguish the edges as I think they wear away. You should be able to tell by the staining on the washer from the water what side was not against the rubber disc.
Not sure if this helped, but I really think putting it on will not be noticeable.
@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 Thank you for the prompt reply! 🙂
Where did you get that socket adapter tool to shut off the water?
There are different sizes. part numbers WV100, WV101, WV106 backflow-supply.com/collections/backflow-test-kit-accessories
Both of my shut off valves handles are broken. Do I need to replace the whole unit?
It depends. What brand and model and size do you have. Is it just the handles that are broken, or is it the stem that the handle is attached to. How easy is it to turn the stem so the shut off will open and close? You should be able to use a crescent wrench to get on the flat sides of the stem to turn it on and off.
Ball valves can be bought for most models, but sometimes it is more cost effective to replace the assembly when all things are considered. For many brands just the handles can be replaced. If you would like to call me at 801-355-6736 we can talk more about it. Sean
great video, i have a Watts 009m3 is leaking, when i close check valve #2 the leak is stop ,what do i do to repair it
thank
Joseph, it might be better to call me or email me, sean@backflow-supply.com or 801-355-6736. I would like to know what this goes to, is it your lawn sprinkler system? Then I would have follow up questions to that. When water is going through the assembly to something open down stream does it stop leaking? Lets talk. Sean
hi , i have Watt 009 m3 3/4 the relief valve is dripping, what is the problem. the valve located in basement of 2 stories building
thank
Do you have a link to the video changing the seat ?
Yes and no. I did a video talking about the different tools and I show the different tools to do it. I need to do a better one. Here is the link for that video. th-cam.com/video/j2wjlbnI2Dk/w-d-xo.html
My backflow assembly failed test. Check valve #2 was leaking. I changed the ring seal and checked to make sure there was no debris. Reassembled and it still dripped. I took #2 apart again and replaced the 5# spring and reassembled. It still leaks. I can shut off #2 a the dripping stops. What could be the reason it still leaks?
Mike, sorry for the delay in responding. Assuming we are talking about the 975XL I would remove the plastic seat that threads into the body that the red seal ring seals to. Also the spring on the #2 check is less than 5 lbs. Number 1 check should have the 5 lb spring.
Is this in a place it could have froze? What is this feeding? When you say it stopped dripping when you turned the #2 off I believe you mean the outlet shut off valve and the dripping stops out the relief valve, correct?
If you would like you can call me 801-355-6736 or email me at sean@backflow-supply.com
Is there any school to be pro on install, inspection and certification in arizona
This company does backflow certification classes www.ccenv.com/
I switched out all parts in both valves 1 and 2 and the relief valve and a lot of water is still coming out of relief valve out port. Can you help me with this issue? Please and thanks in advance
Oscar, you may want to contact me through email sean@backflow-supply.com or phone 801-355-6736. First some questions.
Is the kit you bought an actual Wilkins kit and not just one made by some other company for the Wilkins valve? I have seen some of these unauthorized parts sold on Amazon and they are not right. These after market parts invalidate the approval of the assembly since they are not the manufacturer parts.
I had a local customer come in with the parts the person bought off Amazon for this 975XL and he couldn't get it to stop dumping. The parts were not machined right and the o-ring specifically for the end of the RV stem that goes in the RV cover was too thick and wouldn't let the RV move to the closed position.
Next, make sure you have the check springs in the right positions. The heavier of the two springs belongs in the inlet or #1 check assembly, the one that comes off the top of the assembly.
Is this an assembly that has frozen? Was the assembly doing this before you put the kit in?
Let me know and we can run through some other things to check and do some trouble shooting.
I have a Wilkins Zurn Model # 975XL It is leaking out of the diaphragm in the center hole. What is causing this?
The leak out of the hole on the RV cover is one of three reasons or a combination. When you take that cover off the nipple end of the RV assembly may still be stuck in it. The part that fits into the cover has a plastic piece with an o-ring on it. Either the plastic could be cracked or broken or the o-ring is damaged. Lastly, it could be the cover plate inside where the o-ring seals is corroded or pitted. If the corrosion can be cleaned out and it has not pitted the brass you may be good or you may need a new o-ring. But regardless it is one of those reasons or a combination of them. Call me if you need to 801-355-6736
Mine was intermittently discharging a sputter of water every couple of minutes. The plunger in #1 was broken into multiple pieces. I ordered the total rebuild kit and replaced everything. Now it gushes full pressure out the bottom as if there were no valves whatsoever between the city water supply and the bottom of the unit. I disassembled it and reassembled it three times, I'm sure it's put together properly with all parts in the right place. Any ideas?
Check that you have the springs correct. The stronger spring goes in check one and the weaker spring in check two. Also, make sure when you refill the backflow preventer, you open the second, third and fourth test cock and then open the number one ball valve slightly. When all the air comes out of test cock two, close it and repeat for number three and four.
@@45maga47 I will check that and get back. I did not realize 1 and 2 springs were different. I only have 3 test cocks though. I confirmed it is a 975XL. Weird.
@@45maga47 I did indeed have the springs reversed. I switched them out and it lessened the problem, but I still have a constant flow out of the relief opening. Maybe that of a garden hose or a faucet opened halfway instead of the full overwhelming pressure from the city supply. I once again disassembled everything and put it back together, same result. Thank you for your first comment and trying to help. 45 KAG
Greta video! Where did you get that ball valve handle tool? Thanks
* Great *
We sell them. Here is the link for the size used in the video backflow-supply.com/products/small-bv-handle-wrench?_pos=1&_sid=83b8f5cbd&_ss=r and there is one for larger sizes too. backflow-supply.com/products/ball-valve-wrench-large?_pos=2&_sid=83b8f5cbd&_ss=r
How did I fix water spewing out of the tiny hole in the relief valve? I took the 6 bolts off, replaced the #8 O ring, and it still shoots a spray of water out of the relief valve
Doug, I think I answered this in an email to you. Let me know if you were able to get it solved. Email is the best place to get me.
@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 Thank you very much. I did get your email. I gave up and called my irrigation guy. He claims he did what I tried already, replacing the O ring. I don't get it, it worked for him. Said there was a crease; I don't see how causes water to spray out but oh well, ready for another season!
@@user-sz9zh6gz3o Glad you got it working.
I just replaced a backflow with a brand new one, but there is a slow drip coming out of the relief valve, why?
Is this on a lawn sprinkler system? IF so open a valve downstream and see if it stops leaking out of the relief valve while the zone is running. If it does there is something wrong in the first check valve. It is not uncommon on a new install for debris in the line to get caught in the first check which causes the leak out of the relief valve. Take it apart, clean and flush if necessary and put it back together and see if it works.
If it doesn't stop leaking while the zone is running the problem is in the relief valve. take it apart and clean and put back together.
On occasion the seat could have a crack in it from the factory but it is rare.
Contact me if you have questions. Best way is by email, sean@backflow-supply.com. Phone you may have to wait for a call back. 801-355-6736 or I try and check this at least once a day.
I have a brand new backflow just out of the box that’s leaking just like that
What about the number 1 valve that's leaking out the airflow ???
Bradley, what are you calling the air flow? If you need to call me you can. 801-355-6736 or email, sean@backflow-supply.com
i have the same Backflow assembly but when i turn it on today after winter, water gushing out from releaf valve and wont stop. actually when i first turn it on it was leaking from the releaf valve so i removed and put it back from then onwords water just gushes out from releaf valve. how can i fix it , please help.
Did you come in today and get parts for this?
@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 no i m in Franklin TN
@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 i was able to stop gushing out of Relief valve but not able to completely stop leaking. now its still leaking even after changing all the parts.
Interested in the seat tools you offer. 2
These tools come as a set. I have three options. Below are the links to my web store where you can see a picture and price.
One Wilkins makes, backflow-supply.com/products/seat-removal-set-950-975xl?_pos=1&_sid=01114a747&_ss=r
One by Arbiter backflow-supply.com/products/set-of-6-wilkins-seat-tools?_pos=3&_sid=02a48e62d&_ss=r
And the last one backflow-supply.com/products/wilkins-only-seat-removal-tools?_pos=1&_sid=02a48e62d&_ss=r
Any thoughts?
it is not uncommon for a new install to leak. There could have been debris, such as rocks, sand or rust in your pipes that when turned on got stuck in the #1 check.
I am assuming this is on a lawn sprinkler system. If so turn a zone on that will get more flow going through the heads than what is coming out of the relief valve. If it stops leaking out of the relief valve when the zones are running the problem is in the #1 check assembly. If it doesn't it is in the relief valve. Almost always it is in the #1 check assembly.
If you determine it is in the #1 check take it apart and look for rocks, rust, even teflon tape or pipe dope. Clean it out, flush the line for a minute or so with the part out and the cover off then reassemble and try again.
If you still need assistance you are welcome to call me at 801-355-6736.
What does the number 4 test cock have to do with the number 1 check valve? You failed to explain how the number 4 test cock stopping the relief valve from leaking means that. Your number one check is bad?
Opening the #4 test cock or if necessary opening a valve down stream that gets a greater flow through the assembly than what is coming out of the relief valve is a means of trouble shooting if the issue is the #1 check or the relief valve. It in effect allows the relief valve to fully close if it is a number one check issue. But if it is a relief valve issue it doesn't matter if water is flowing or not and you will know where to focus your efforts in your repair or cleaning.
Are you a certified Backflow Tester
I have been, but not currently.
WHat you do is get a rebuild kit. I completed mine less than hour.. Dont brother to troubleshoot, buy the rebuild kit.
This is an option but there are different ways of thinking. Neither is wrong and both have their benefits.
Kudos for the "SHUT-OFF TOOL", but you shouldn't be promoting that homeowners are allowed to repair BFP's, unless they are certified!!!
I know this is a little late in replying, but just noticed it. I suppose that depends on where you live, because in this region homeowners can do their own repairs. I guess you should check local codes.
Great ...now you have homeowners repairing backflows...they arent trained and qualified to repair and test any testable backflow device !!! Thats why plumbers have licenses to protect our public water utility
I understand your concern. However, they are going to do it anyway and in many places codes allow them to do it. These videos are also not just for them but those that are licensed to do it. Many of them do not understand how to do it either and know very little about installation requirements for them.
Union plumber much?
Did he just use a tool for a shut off valve....video skipping in 3,2,1
Thank you!
Thank you.