Thank you very much for sharing the right way to change the brakes, and the reasoning behind the procedure. Really appreciate your help. Please add more HONDA videos. Looking forward to your videos!
Thank you very much for the explanations about Ceramic Extreme properties and warning not to put it on the Slide Pins! I would need to redo the Slide Pins, since applied the Ceramic Extreme on them. Strange that Copilot AI said I can use it on those pins and no warning on the bottle w/that purple Ceramic Extreme. The car was not driven yet after I did that Front Brake job. Hopefully not much damage, since no sliding. Probably those ceramic particles hurt the rubber. Thank you again.
It simply depends on whether the rotor comes off easily or not. Usually you’ll have to because there’s a very tight tolerance that makes removing the rotor difficult.
I might recommend some penetrating fluid such as liquid wrench penetrating oil. At this point, your slider bolts are already ruined and new ones will need to be purchased, so don't be afraid to use locking pliers or anything else you need to do to twist and pull them out. Just be careful of the rubber boots. After getting them out, clean the caliper hole out with brake cleaner and a thin brush if you have one. Then use either 3M silicone or another dedicated brake lube when putting everything back together.
Hello. Another great how to video! Thks. Off topic. It seems as though my drivers front master switch is going bad. The auto up down button does not engage the window up and down. You ever experience that on your car? I have not opened up the door to look at it yet, but am hoping it's not the window regulator. Thks
Does the auto function specifically not work? If you ever disconnect the battery or reset the ECU, this also resets the auto up/down feature. The simple solution is to start with the window all the way up, roll the window all the way down, and then all the way back up again. Then the auto function should work. If the front driver window isn't working in general you can check to see if the 40 amp fuse is blown, it's located under the hood on the passenger side on my car. You can also test the window relay located by the passenger fuses but looking up under the dashboard/glovebox. You can also access the electrical connector for the window motor, and manually apply 12v and a ground to the 2 top male terminals. If it moves like normal, the motor works fine, just be careful doing this as there's no safety feature to stop the motor once it reaches the very top or bottom.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Hello again and thanks for the comprehensive advice. The actual drivers front window button does not move the window up or down when I push it. I assumed it was the window regulator and ordered one, but will check the relay underneath the glove box if I can find it. The other 3 buttons on the master switch operate the windows fine. Sorry about the delayed response I accidentally restricted my comments section and had to figure out how to remove it. Im.not comfortable doing the test on the motor but will definitely look for the relay and fuse. I guessing if the relay or fuse was bad the whole switch would not work? Love watching your videos! Thks again
@@carchk2054 yah good point, the motors don’t often go bad but I’ve heard of it before. It’s most likely your problem here. Thanks for watching as always!
Good morning fellow type s enthusiast. I have an off topic question for you. My 02 tl type s has thrown several different codes at different times lately. first p0304 and p0305 which was cleared by new #4 honda coil pack and thorough cleaning of entire intake system egr iacv tb plates .etc. next it threw a p0131 which was cleared with an oem upstream o2 sensor. all fine for a couple days then threw p0132 code downstream o2 sensor. When i purchased the car in jan 2020, i had the front y pipe cat and that rear o2 sensor installed bc someone stole the cat and the seller was selling without those items. i dont remember if i used an oem o2 sensor. have you ever experienced that p0132 code and if so what was the solution? my car has also been idling low around 600 for a while now without any stalling or acceleration problems. thanks carchk
sounds like an unfortunate coincidence to be getting all these codes at the same time seeing how each code is remedied as you replace the necessary parts. I only have had one issue with an O2 sensor, and that was when I drove over a snow drift which caused the catalytic converter heat shield to be ripped off and yanked on the O2 sensor wire. This caused a bunch of lights to come on and my car only drove in 2nd and 4th gear. The solution was to replace the O2 sensor and the corresponding blown fuse. Not sure what O2 sensor you used (Bosch is notorious for failing), but Denso makes the O2 sensors for our cars. Personally, I bought the O2 sensor from an Acura website, and it's worked perfectly since installing it. Im sure replacing it would fix your CEL code and low RPM issue.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Hello again. well you are correct. after replacing the upstream and downstream o2 sensors, the car is running great. still lower idle but smooth as silk. oh i forgot to mention, i also had to replace the drivers rear window regulator which was broken and left the window in the down position. i used an aisin regulator from rock auto. the o2 sensors were upstream acura part downstream denso part. i knew about bosch sensors being really bad for honda acuras. Thanks again for always responding Carchk
Thank you very much for sharing the right way to change the brakes, and the reasoning behind the procedure. Really appreciate your help. Please add more HONDA videos. Looking forward to your videos!
This author completed the job single handedly (using one hand holding the camera) with ease and confidence. I wish I had a neighbour like him.
haha Thank you! It's not easy sometimes but it makes the quality of the video that much better!
Thank you very much for the explanations about Ceramic Extreme properties and warning not to put it on the Slide Pins! I would need to redo the Slide Pins, since applied the Ceramic Extreme on them. Strange that Copilot AI said I can use it on those pins and no warning on the bottle w/that purple Ceramic Extreme. The car was not driven yet after I did that Front Brake job. Hopefully not much damage, since no sliding. Probably those ceramic particles hurt the rubber. Thank you again.
If you don't need to replace the parking brake, do you still need to press down the parking brake teeth before you replace the rotor? Thanks.
It simply depends on whether the rotor comes off easily or not. Usually you’ll have to because there’s a very tight tolerance that makes removing the rotor difficult.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thanks!
My caliper sliding pin is seized what do i do to take it out
I might recommend some penetrating fluid such as liquid wrench penetrating oil. At this point, your slider bolts are already ruined and new ones will need to be purchased, so don't be afraid to use locking pliers or anything else you need to do to twist and pull them out. Just be careful of the rubber boots. After getting them out, clean the caliper hole out with brake cleaner and a thin brush if you have one. Then use either 3M silicone or another dedicated brake lube when putting everything back together.
I really appreciate your work!
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching :)
Nice one, I've seen many recommending akebono pads + centric rotors but I went with centric sets for all four wheels instead. Keep up the good work :)
Thanks for the continued support Joon! Centric is a great brand!
Hello. Another great how to video! Thks. Off topic. It seems as though my drivers front master switch is going bad. The auto up down button does not engage the window up and down. You ever experience that on your car? I have not opened up the door to look at it yet, but am hoping it's not the window regulator. Thks
Does the auto function specifically not work? If you ever disconnect the battery or reset the ECU, this also resets the auto up/down feature. The simple solution is to start with the window all the way up, roll the window all the way down, and then all the way back up again. Then the auto function should work. If the front driver window isn't working in general you can check to see if the 40 amp fuse is blown, it's located under the hood on the passenger side on my car. You can also test the window relay located by the passenger fuses but looking up under the dashboard/glovebox. You can also access the electrical connector for the window motor, and manually apply 12v and a ground to the 2 top male terminals. If it moves like normal, the motor works fine, just be careful doing this as there's no safety feature to stop the motor once it reaches the very top or bottom.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Hello again and thanks for the comprehensive advice. The actual drivers front window button does not move the window up or down when I push it. I assumed it was the window regulator and ordered one, but will check the relay underneath the glove box if I can find it. The other 3 buttons on the master switch operate the windows fine. Sorry about the delayed response I accidentally restricted my comments section and had to figure out how to remove it. Im.not comfortable doing the test on the motor but will definitely look for the relay and fuse. I guessing if the relay or fuse was bad the whole switch would not work? Love watching your videos! Thks again
@@carchk2054 yah good point, the motors don’t often go bad but I’ve heard of it before. It’s most likely your problem here. Thanks for watching as always!
I have the same car, with the oil leaking. Can you do a video on the engine gaskets when it's time for you to replace it? Thanks
The most common leak seems to be the VTEC solenoid. th-cam.com/video/tTb15E-Yk6U/w-d-xo.html < I fixed my oil leak from there.
Good morning fellow type s enthusiast. I have an off topic question for you. My 02 tl type s has thrown several different codes at different times lately. first p0304 and p0305 which was cleared by new #4 honda coil pack and thorough cleaning of entire intake system egr iacv tb plates .etc. next it threw a p0131 which was cleared with an oem upstream o2 sensor. all fine for a couple days then threw p0132 code downstream o2 sensor. When i purchased the car in jan 2020, i had the front y pipe cat and that rear o2 sensor installed bc someone stole the cat and the seller was selling without those items. i dont remember if i used an oem o2 sensor. have you ever experienced that p0132 code and if so what was the solution? my car has also been idling low around 600 for a while now without any stalling or acceleration problems. thanks carchk
sounds like an unfortunate coincidence to be getting all these codes at the same time seeing how each code is remedied as you replace the necessary parts. I only have had one issue with an O2 sensor, and that was when I drove over a snow drift which caused the catalytic converter heat shield to be ripped off and yanked on the O2 sensor wire. This caused a bunch of lights to come on and my car only drove in 2nd and 4th gear. The solution was to replace the O2 sensor and the corresponding blown fuse. Not sure what O2 sensor you used (Bosch is notorious for failing), but Denso makes the O2 sensors for our cars. Personally, I bought the O2 sensor from an Acura website, and it's worked perfectly since installing it. Im sure replacing it would fix your CEL code and low RPM issue.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Hello again. well you are correct. after replacing the upstream and downstream o2 sensors, the car is running great. still lower idle but smooth as silk. oh i forgot to mention, i also had to replace the drivers rear window regulator which was broken and left the window in the down position. i used an aisin regulator from rock auto. the o2 sensors were upstream acura part downstream denso part. i knew about bosch sensors being really bad for honda acuras. Thanks again for always responding Carchk
@@carchk2054 awesome! Glad you got everything fixed! Keep up the great work
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thk u