Probably a couple of dumb questions but what do you use to sand and polish for a smooth finish on the parts so you don't have the marks or bits from the runner? And what was that blue ans yellow tool you were using is it a refillable glue Applacator? Or is that some disposable thing
There's never any dumb questions mate, always ask :) I use a hobby knife to trim the nubs then gently grind the blade over the area softly repeatedly to blend it in or use a small hobby file/sandpaper, remember that doing it slowly and carefully and practicing on left over sprue is best before you try on parts. The blue and yellow pot is revell's contacta professional glue, you can reuse or dispose of them when empty.
Quick question, do you use any of the sms directly on any of your painted zoids like primer etc? My saix had a severe reaction. First when using the jet black and then with the black surfacer.
Sometimes I do prime, it depends what I'm doing really. What did the jet black do mate? Is it possible you handled the pieces or kit with grease or any oils etc on your hands? Also the surfacer may be normal, as far as I recall it's meant to be applied then sanded ready for the next coats, so it can come out looking rough.
@@Beastsbuilds Its like the plastic surface softened then hardened as the solvent evaporated causing a wrinklely like effect. Its basically what Scott decribed as whats happened after showing him a photo of it. He says it possibly a fault in the plastic and the sms paint is simply too "hot" for it. The primer did the same thing with just a light dusting. After stripping the paint I've spent about 10 hours scrapping the surface with an olfa knife blade and then sanding to make it look reasonable again. Happened to all the leg frame bits. All the claws came out fine as I used a tamiya primer and then a tamiya gloss black for the hyperchrome. So yeah for this kit the sms will only be used for the colour. I've decanted a couple cans of tamiya and it sprays awesome out of an airbrush. First test piece and spoon look stella.
How strange, depending on the age of the kit, it's possible it's kotobukiya's early plastic, which was pretty brittle on some kits, maybe there's a link there. Sorry that's happened dude, I can't say I've had any issues with SMS paints this far, I'm glad Scotty was there to help, he's a legend!
@@Beastsbuilds Yeah I had this one for over 10 years I think and its not a reissue or marking plus. What I largely notice about it is the plastic isn't uniform in colour and has a swirly/wavey effect in the plastic and alot of the bad reaction was in those areas. Maybe it wasn't mixed properly before injection. But its all good now, just waiting on a scriber kit to arrive so I can clean out paint thats remained in the panel lines.
![ถ้าพี่วุ้นท้อง แป้งจะท้องไปด้วยกัน !!!! [ดูคลิปเต็มหน้าช่อง] #Short | PANG ORNHIRA](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FeyEnVMwitA/mqdefault.jpg)
These vids keep getting better, love it mate keep them coming
Big one next 🙏
Probably a couple of dumb questions but what do you use to sand and polish for a smooth finish on the parts so you don't have the marks or bits from the runner? And what was that blue ans yellow tool you were using is it a refillable glue Applacator? Or is that some disposable thing
There's never any dumb questions mate, always ask :) I use a hobby knife to trim the nubs then gently grind the blade over the area softly repeatedly to blend it in or use a small hobby file/sandpaper, remember that doing it slowly and carefully and practicing on left over sprue is best before you try on parts. The blue and yellow pot is revell's contacta professional glue, you can reuse or dispose of them when empty.
Quick question, do you use any of the sms directly on any of your painted zoids like primer etc? My saix had a severe reaction. First when using the jet black and then with the black surfacer.
Sometimes I do prime, it depends what I'm doing really. What did the jet black do mate? Is it possible you handled the pieces or kit with grease or any oils etc on your hands? Also the surfacer may be normal, as far as I recall it's meant to be applied then sanded ready for the next coats, so it can come out looking rough.
@@Beastsbuilds Its like the plastic surface softened then hardened as the solvent evaporated causing a wrinklely like effect. Its basically what Scott decribed as whats happened after showing him a photo of it. He says it possibly a fault in the plastic and the sms paint is simply too "hot" for it. The primer did the same thing with just a light dusting. After stripping the paint I've spent about 10 hours scrapping the surface with an olfa knife blade and then sanding to make it look reasonable again. Happened to all the leg frame bits. All the claws came out fine as I used a tamiya primer and then a tamiya gloss black for the hyperchrome.
So yeah for this kit the sms will only be used for the colour. I've decanted a couple cans of tamiya and it sprays awesome out of an airbrush. First test piece and spoon look stella.
How strange, depending on the age of the kit, it's possible it's kotobukiya's early plastic, which was pretty brittle on some kits, maybe there's a link there. Sorry that's happened dude, I can't say I've had any issues with SMS paints this far, I'm glad Scotty was there to help, he's a legend!
@@Beastsbuilds Yeah I had this one for over 10 years I think and its not a reissue or marking plus. What I largely notice about it is the plastic isn't uniform in colour and has a swirly/wavey effect in the plastic and alot of the bad reaction was in those areas. Maybe it wasn't mixed properly before injection. But its all good now, just waiting on a scriber kit to arrive so I can clean out paint thats remained in the panel lines.
Yeah that'd do it I reckon, glad it's salvageable though. I still need to get around to Dettol strip testing SMS to see how that fairs.
You use topcoat?
Not on the lacquers unless I'm doing more with it mate!
This is begging for some of SMS's color shift or pearl purples and reds
Thankfully there's another one in the backlog ;)