Almost finished printing it! I had to cut it to fit in the printers, but I've just finished reassembling the head using LocTite gel for initial bonding, then using a 3D pen to fill and further bond it, then wood filler. A couple of sanding/priming cycles, and it's pretty good! The bust part had to be cut in three parts, and the final part is printing right now. I've ordered a 2-pole switch so that I can not only light an LED, but I'm using the second poles to put a pigtail on it that can control a low-voltage wireless remote such as a garage door opener or something similar.
I love that. I want one that just slightly bigger and if or when I get to it , I want to hook it up to something so it is practical and can actually do something
What type of potentiometer did you use for the switch? The dial is very tiny and I am having trouble finding one that fits. It is the one electronic not mentioned.
I just ordered a 2 position 2-pole rotary switch on Amazon - about $9. I used that so it would light the LED, but also have the ability to control something else (such as the hidden panel to the bat-cave!).
Hi! Amazing model and finish work. This kind of stl file, it can be printed in a fdm printer? Thanks for the increidble video. Sorry for my poor english. Im from argentina.
I know it's late for a reply, but I'm doing a great print on my FDM printers. I did have to cut it with Meshmixer to fit it on my two printers (modified Ender 3 and a CR-6). I just finished re-assembling the head, filling, sanding, and priming it. I had to cut the bust portion in 3 pieces. Two are printed; the third should be done either tomorrow night or the following morning.
I think it's due to printer's sub-par lightbox design. Most mSLA printers have several, like roughly half a dozen, high power LEDs that sit at the bottom of the printer and provide the powerful light that cures the resin. Each LED sits in its own reflector to try to beam shape it. Where two of these reflectors butt up against each other, there's a line where the light power reaching the resin is much weaker. This makes it impossible to perfectly calibrate the exposure and have that be valid across the whole print surface, it'll be good across most of it except too weak near those boundary lines. At this point one might say "they should take a page out of monitor and TV manufacturers' playbook, those have solved the problem adequately" but due to low wavelength and high light power density, the materials used there aren't suitable, so they can't just buy something off the shelf and have it work. But they definitely should put some extra engineering effort into this. Slicers are also unaware of this design deficiency and don't do anything to compensate for it.
Consider wearing gloves or finger cots when working with epoxy putty, or any uncured resin product, or at least recommending that the viewers do that, i think public figures are on duty to try to set a good example and try to keep their audience safe even if their personal risk assessment is different. In uncured state, they're all prone to cause allergic sensitisation, and while probability isn't high that it'll hit you or any given person in particular, if and when it happens, well that's it, you're never getting rid of it and it's just going to get worse, with in some extremely rare cases life threatening consequences. I think a lot of people in the hobby space just don't know about it, or don't know how bad it can really get. That crack? Uneven curing from the printer, where different backlight chambers connect? Pity manufacturers haven't resolved this better, this seems like one of those fundamental things that you'd want them to get right eventually.
my birthday video. love it
Happy birthday!
Almost finished printing it! I had to cut it to fit in the printers, but I've just finished reassembling the head using LocTite gel for initial bonding, then using a 3D pen to fill and further bond it, then wood filler. A couple of sanding/priming cycles, and it's pretty good! The bust part had to be cut in three parts, and the final part is printing right now. I've ordered a 2-pole switch so that I can not only light an LED, but I'm using the second poles to put a pigtail on it that can control a low-voltage wireless remote such as a garage door opener or something similar.
I love that. I want one that just slightly bigger and if or when I get to it , I want to hook it up to something so it is practical and can actually do something
Great idea. Yeah, you would just scale it up to what you want it to be.
Another cool project! Well done, Kevin! you have the right tools/supplies for the desired effect every time it seems :) Keep it up!
Thanks!
What type of potentiometer did you use for the switch? The dial is very tiny and I am having trouble finding one that fits. It is the one electronic not mentioned.
I just ordered a 2 position 2-pole rotary switch on Amazon - about $9. I used that so it would light the LED, but also have the ability to control something else (such as the hidden panel to the bat-cave!).
Do you have a link to the dial you used for this project?
It would be great if you will print and paint a Berserk figure😍
I would love to make this but the Duke is no longer on your site. Can you help?
Hi! Amazing model and finish work. This kind of stl file, it can be printed in a fdm printer? Thanks for the increidble video. Sorry for my poor english. Im from argentina.
I know it's late for a reply, but I'm doing a great print on my FDM printers. I did have to cut it with Meshmixer to fit it on my two printers (modified Ender 3 and a CR-6). I just finished re-assembling the head, filling, sanding, and priming it. I had to cut the bust portion in 3 pieces. Two are printed; the third should be done either tomorrow night or the following morning.
Let's go old chum..we haven't one moment to lose!!
Can still heat Adam West saying that.
I'm guessing you got a C&D, since the file is no longer on your site?
i cant get this file, why?
Does the downloadable model have the hole in the head?
Nope, That was a mistake in the print. Not sure why it happened, I think it was just a missed support.
I think it's due to printer's sub-par lightbox design. Most mSLA printers have several, like roughly half a dozen, high power LEDs that sit at the bottom of the printer and provide the powerful light that cures the resin. Each LED sits in its own reflector to try to beam shape it. Where two of these reflectors butt up against each other, there's a line where the light power reaching the resin is much weaker. This makes it impossible to perfectly calibrate the exposure and have that be valid across the whole print surface, it'll be good across most of it except too weak near those boundary lines.
At this point one might say "they should take a page out of monitor and TV manufacturers' playbook, those have solved the problem adequately" but due to low wavelength and high light power density, the materials used there aren't suitable, so they can't just buy something off the shelf and have it work.
But they definitely should put some extra engineering effort into this.
Slicers are also unaware of this design deficiency and don't do anything to compensate for it.
What do you mean by that??? 🤣😂🤣
Consider wearing gloves or finger cots when working with epoxy putty, or any uncured resin product, or at least recommending that the viewers do that, i think public figures are on duty to try to set a good example and try to keep their audience safe even if their personal risk assessment is different. In uncured state, they're all prone to cause allergic sensitisation, and while probability isn't high that it'll hit you or any given person in particular, if and when it happens, well that's it, you're never getting rid of it and it's just going to get worse, with in some extremely rare cases life threatening consequences. I think a lot of people in the hobby space just don't know about it, or don't know how bad it can really get.
That crack? Uneven curing from the printer, where different backlight chambers connect? Pity manufacturers haven't resolved this better, this seems like one of those fundamental things that you'd want them to get right eventually.
Very true. I will make sure to remember to do that. Thanks for the reminder.
Tony Stark - "I need it."