You should ask Cleetus for who fixed neighbor after that crashed. They cut the whole rear off and put one on. A quarter panel and a bit more sheet metal should be no problem, especially since you already have the donor.
@@firefly2472 I think the rear support, legs and aluminum sheeting should be fine. It's away from the battery and the wiring that is there is is probably found on most new cars, lights, reverse camera, hatch motor etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. If it was under body damage then that's a different story but that rear panel and quarter can be spliced and welded in. I'm sure Kyle isn't expecting a show car worthy finish, considering the car will probably be altered drastically in the future. The Tesla like most cars now is designed to crumple and absorb energy, engineers know not to put anything dangerous there because it's a impact zone. I did some time in a frame shop and that thought me how cars are built for safety and everything else comes second nowadays. My boss said any car pre 1970 was built for function first and then what ever was left for safety afterwards.
The quarter panels are very different between the P100D and the Plaid. Plaid has a wider arch to handle the wider rear track. Put the car on a frame machine and replace that rear panel , RH rail and the floor sections , most of the rear of Model S is held together with pop rivets and glue. Try and save the quarter.
I think he's doing a good job all things considered. Every Tesla crash I see, it gets totaled for the most insignificant damage ever, so I feel like no one wants to actually work on them. Electric cars are probably gonna become like phones, throw them out as soon as the smallest thing breaks after a couple years. But it's better for the environment, right???? 😁
I used to work for LKQ and sold "cuts" to body shops. A real legit body shop can cut the back of the car off, and weld your new one to it. When they are done you'll be hard pressed to notice anything. You'd have to crawl underneath and notice the welds.
I've worked in said bodyshops with those kinda panel beaters. Sometimes, even if you crawled underneath, you still wouldn't be able to tell it wasn't a normal repair with brand new parts or even a repair at all.
Exactly. Car damage and buckled metal always looks worse than it is when it's been rear ended. Roll overs, barrel rolls are a different story once all 4 wheels have left the ground
There is over $500 in doors on that rig! Sick buy buddy!! I honestly suspected you may be using the drivetrain from the plaid for the tube chassis civic lol. Cool idea if you do but either way excited to see what you do with both the plaid and the tube chassis civic 👍👍👍
If your replacing the quarterpanel replace the rear panels too thats light work compared the quarter panel makes it easy to fix the inside too also gets your hatch to shut on the right place good luck boiz
Hey Kyle I seen your video about getting the Honda painted and wanting to upgrade the headlights if you are interested I can build you a set of custom retrofit headlights. If you are interested let me know we can work something out
Rear quarters probably wont fit, plaid facelift is significantly wider, and the car he picked up is pre facelift, hopefully he can still salvage the bumper cover and hatch though, looking hopeful on the hatch.
If they can get that quarter straightened out. Its easily within Kyles skill set to unstitch both the quarter AND the complete back panel (with the trunk lid striker/catch) off the parts car. I'd recommend a panel-beaters advice on the best places to cut the seams, as you only get one shot at that part. They did most of the hard part already tbf.
Out of the 2 integras that I’ve gone threw the rebuild process with in Florida. When I went to get the inspection, all they looked at was the vin and the mileage! They didn’t even look at the repair… You guys rule! Thanks for everything!
Yeah the salvage to rebuilt title process here in Indiana just required me to get a state trooper to sign a form saying that it was road legal, all he did on mine was check to make sure all of the lights worked
Kyle! That hatch and bumper might work with some parts swapped, I think they're pretty similar although both parts were changed slightly during the plaid facelift, hopefully just harnesses to get em working right. The quarter panels for the rear are definitely different, the older car you just picked up has skinner fenders then the plaid so if you do manage to get it to fit they wont be as wide as the rest of the body of the car, might still be fine and just look goofy but just in case someone else doesn't tell ya first, it might be good to know.
it's close enough a good body shop or maybe themselves if they put enough effort can get things lined up thru brute force on the pass. side. Take the frame rail from the other one and swap that out for sure though.
Good luck to you fellas on this project. One thing's for certain to come out of it,, when you're done imaginee how much you'll learn about work'n with aluminum.. The Boosted Boyz [and our] realm of knowledge continues growing!
I just wanna say congrats to you guys. Kyle and Wyatt have been working so hard growing the channel over the last few years. It's awesome watching the progress.
@15:40 you're pointing and talking about the frame rail. That orange glue around the mounting point of the frame rail is the strongest glue I've ever dealt with. You will damage the casting trying to separate the rail from the hole it's in. That glue is stupid strong! You'll want to cut the rail off very close to the casing then cut pieces out and chisel at the glue and pry out the pieces. The rail goes about 3 inches into the casting. On the donor car carefully cut the cast piece away from the rail if you want to save the frame rail. I do believe you can find some OEM parts on ebay though.
New respect for you Kyle. Knowing those hammer taps move metal, and relax it into its new position, earned more of my respect. Right on my Boosted Brother!
As long as you have a receipt in your name for the parts car you bought you can literally take it down like it is at the end of this video and you'll get your rebuilt title for it. I've rebuilt over 30 cars in the past 20+ years and dealt with the regional DMV at Netpark in Tampa and they are pretty easy to get along with. The main thing is to call occasionally and check their rule changes because they change all the time. When I first started doing it you didn't even have to fix blown airbags.
Same as Ohio, they only check to make sure stolen parts aren't on the car. They could give a fuck less how un-roadworthy it is. I'd drive that plaid anywhere though, I want one so bad.
@timcole421 the rules are perfect for private individuals doing it to keep the cars for a while. Unfortunately I've heard some horror stories about some of the shady crap resellers do to save a buck. In Florida tho you don't see too many big dealers that sell rebuilt title cars.
@@jasonpoletta1797 Or yet this is a good example of a "doctored" car in its current state. LOTS of people buy salvage and do a LOT worse (talking welding broken spindles back together) work to make them look nice then put them back on the auction block to sell to some sap who couldn't come look at the car. The only saving grace is I hope these end up in Nigeria or all the other foreign bidders that drive the price up on everything.
Its not any wider, "new front bumper with additional air vents and new headlights. The Model S Plaid also has wider side skirts, a ducktail spoiler, and subtly revised 19-inch 'Tempest' alloy wheels"
Your pull is mostly breaking welds, perhaps with a frame machine it would be possible. But doing it like this usually means it will not be approved by DOT.
What do you think they will do? Just do an unlocked Fueltech FT700 Tesla Plaid or do you think they will try to do a crazy hybride? I don't really think a K something will fit for example, without an insane amount of work or maybe not even ever. I still hope the just do it the easy way and unlock the full power and speed with the upcoming Ingenext plugin unlock module for the Tesla S Plaid th-cam.com/video/0N95g8pM6Eg/w-d-xo.html And then take it on some half mile drag events and do some weight mods and run it in Cleatus spectator drag.
Have you verified that a non -Tesla approved repaired car will ever be allowed to charge thru their network. I have a feeling you're in for a big surprise.
I wish I could help him! Been a body tech a long time and it’s so close to lining up just a few more tweaks and I could get the hatch fitting cherry🥵 doing a good job with a tree and strap though!!! Frame rail that’s crunched is loaded with orange panel bonder to the unibody so make sure you heat it with a torch before trying those bolts in case they are coated in it. Some panel bonds take up to 900 degrees to release and can be stronger than welding so keep that in mind if it doesn’t budge just more heat. Good luck buddy!
For anyone interested the DMV will not be inspecting any damage repair done on salvage cars. All they care about are the airbags and vin numbers on any "major" parts replaced. It 100% is not a safety inspection. I've seen cars go through that didn't have any repair work done at all.
At first I wasn't so sure swapp'n out the hatch's was a good idea - until the uarters and other parts are done - but once they were I could see how making that swap and the bumper serves to help motivate yourselves to continue the remaining work. Lov'n how much better it looks after just one afternoon's sweat and maybe a little blood :)
Rear body panel, trunk floor, some pulling, new hatch, new taillights, new rear bumper and you'll be good. The pulling of the "frame rails" should help straighten the quarters and some minor bodywork would get them right. Or just section in the quarters at the sail panel and dog legs
I rode in a Hyundai Iconiq5 ? 320hp and was impressed as hell with the acceleration not having been in any fast cars lately. Those Plaids have to be insane. Nice job on the days work!!!
I must say that cut to the bumper bar flying off was pretty good😄 Well done on the bodywork as well, it's always going to be better then what it was so that's a great starting point. While I've never been a body man myself I always find it fascinating to understand. Watching the old school body guys like Coldwarmotors (great guy; well worth a follow) you get a better understanding of the process. And so far you guys weren't far off. Given the hard hit your never going to get it right with the original sheet metal, but getting it back into the position it should have been would also be a body shops first step. You always have to thing in the reversal of the process that caused it. So putting tension on the quarter in the opposite direction it was hit in and tapping the mangled metal that was pushed forward wasn't wrong at all. Once in the location it should have been you start replacing the rear end by as you also correctly suggested drilling out the spot welds of the damaged body panels as it would have been mounted in the factory, again reversal of the process of assembly. Get all it correctly aligned, reweld a viola you have done some proper crash damage repair. Given your track record I'd be sceptical to see it get to that point but hey A for afford; well done so far👍
I hope this swap works and you get the plaid fixed up, but from my understanding the plaid is a total remodel in terms of engineering and so on, so nothing should be straight swappable without minor modifications through-out
Lift up the RR quarter from the bumper area. To pull the buckle out above the wheel. Bolt a 4"x4" steel plate with an eyelet on to that area under that taillight and pull strap it there.
Nice bit of back yard innovation a few pills and it's looking great 👍 you should be able to mix and match enough bits from both cars to get the hatch sorted 👌 great work 🤘
Close enough to just adjust the striker and bump stops 🤣👌🏼 I think the qtr panel is around where it should be but the rear where the striker for the latch is is bent so the liftgate fit is off. You basically got it 💪🏼
Put a strap through the right rear quarter and tie it up high on the tree with a ladder and drive forward, should pull it out and up and line everything up! It is looking 90% better even if the structure is still just as bad, hahaha.
definately did some good. i think the structural beam once changed like you said and all the what nots buttoned up itll pass inspection. doesnt need to be perfect just safe in their books :D
Reminds me of a garage I used to work at they would connect a forklift to things and let it rip 😂 fair play tho that's actually a decent job you did I bet it felt good at the end of the day seeing what you managed to do
You should look into getting a power pack set. Hydraulic ram with different attachments to straighten frames and body damage. It will allow more control so you don't over stretch things and cause more problems.
I'm sure you have thought of it since posting this but, doing the same process to bend the area for the hatch latch can be replicated using a higher point of pull on the tree. You will be able to utilize the tension of the angle and the torque from the motor to pull that pass. side upwards and out at the same time. Give me a shout-out if it works!
if you cut all that mangled sheet metal out it will be easy to move the panels and get the frame pieces in just leave the rear rail that the gasket and latch is on and cut the rest under it out. once you get it all straight enuf you just replace it with the good metal from the doner
Hey bud. Certified autobody mechanic of 20 years here. Aluminum likes to rip as you can see from under the latch. I know it’s content, but you have the back half of a perfectly good, burnt to the ground Tesla. The time you’ve spent on this, you probably could have moved everything over. I’m sure your future plans, are going to effect the amount of work your doing. It’s definitely fun to watch!
You should ask Cleetus for who fixed neighbor after that crashed. They cut the whole rear off and put one on. A quarter panel and a bit more sheet metal should be no problem, especially since you already have the donor.
With al those electronics and stuff ? Thats gona cost yah more that they want to spend on it i think.
@@firefly2472 I think the rear support, legs and aluminum sheeting should be fine. It's away from the battery and the wiring that is there is is probably found on most new cars, lights, reverse camera, hatch motor etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. If it was under body damage then that's a different story but that rear panel and quarter can be spliced and welded in. I'm sure Kyle isn't expecting a show car worthy finish, considering the car will probably be altered drastically in the future.
The Tesla like most cars now is designed to crumple and absorb energy, engineers know not to put anything dangerous there because it's a impact zone. I did some time in a frame shop and that thought me how cars are built for safety and everything else comes second nowadays. My boss said any car pre 1970 was built for function first and then what ever was left for safety afterwards.
Came here to say the exact same thing
Damn dude can’t prolly buy that bare bones trunk lid for $500
That Tesla isn't as bad that it needs a rear section replaced
The quarter panels are very different between the P100D and the Plaid.
Plaid has a wider arch to handle the wider rear track.
Put the car on a frame machine and replace that rear panel , RH rail and the floor sections , most of the rear of Model S is held together with pop rivets and glue.
Try and save the quarter.
'I know a guy that can do it cheaper'
This is the guy 🤣
Tool of choice? A freaking tree🤣🌳
@@ricardo1e93 A stupid idea that works, isn't a stupid idea 🤣
He’s got an oak tree frame machine!
I think he's doing a good job all things considered. Every Tesla crash I see, it gets totaled for the most insignificant damage ever, so I feel like no one wants to actually work on them. Electric cars are probably gonna become like phones, throw them out as soon as the smallest thing breaks after a couple years. But it's better for the environment, right???? 😁
Take it and the shell to the guys that fixed Neighbor for Cleetus. They did a hell of a job and it looked mint.
He’s too cheap to do all that , unless ol cleeter gets him a discount
That's a GREAT note Courtney. Those gents at that body shop are awesome
was just going to suggest that
I used to work for LKQ and sold "cuts" to body shops. A real legit body shop can cut the back of the car off, and weld your new one to it. When they are done you'll be hard pressed to notice anything. You'd have to crawl underneath and notice the welds.
It’s called a cut and shut job. Now look up what happens to a cut and shut car when it gets crashed…… a real legit body shop won’t don’t do that.
They don't need to go that far and it's a bad Idea. half cuts aren't safe and many times will never be strait.
@@christopherbeevor9315 bawl those eyes out
I've worked in said bodyshops with those kinda panel beaters. Sometimes, even if you crawled underneath, you still wouldn't be able to tell it wasn't a normal repair with brand new parts or even a repair at all.
@@fast97z24 said a guy named c*nt and son
Pre-prediction: cutting old the running plaid body and tubing it like Leroy! Call it E-roy!
That's a good idea
Nope definitely not
@@feverdream2661told ya.
I Called it. I Even got the name right.
A bottle jack and a couple blocks of wood will do a good job in a more controlled manner.
But you guys did a killer job with that tree 😅
Exactly. Car damage and buckled metal always looks worse than it is when it's been rear ended. Roll overs, barrel rolls are a different story once all 4 wheels have left the ground
Helps when the car has that much instant torque.
What a great deal. It's like a sore pecker, you can't beat it! Congratulations!
You just lack determination
Lol
The comment section never let's me down after a rough day.
😂😂😂
Dude,,, that's funny! Peace ✌️
Always a good day when boostedboyz uploads a video
Fax 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Yes sir.
AlWaYs A GoOd DaY wHeN ..... uPlOaDs
Honestly 😅
Boostedboiz**
damn...i was thinking Kyles balling out on this thing. but $500 is a nuts deal lol
not really. all that's left is some.trim panels and a hatch lid. the rest is useless. It's worth maybe $600 if you part it out. $125 scrap.
@@dustyc324 a hatch alone with glass is around 1000
@@dustyc324 lol just pulling numbers out your ass there. There are a couple thousand dollars worth of parts/ panels left.
@@CantFocus I don't see it.
@@dustyc324 Which means... that you are blind and don't see the value. Doesn't mean it's not worth more than what you're saying.
There is over $500 in doors on that rig! Sick buy buddy!! I honestly suspected you may be using the drivetrain from the plaid for the tube chassis civic lol. Cool idea if you do but either way excited to see what you do with both the plaid and the tube chassis civic 👍👍👍
If your replacing the quarterpanel replace the rear panels too thats light work compared the quarter panel makes it easy to fix the inside too also gets your hatch to shut on the right place good luck boiz
Hey Kyle I seen your video about getting the Honda painted and wanting to upgrade the headlights if you are interested I can build you a set of custom retrofit headlights. If you are interested let me know we can work something out
With your welding skills and common sense you should have no problem doing the rear quarters. Your a smart guy
yore*
@@mcf3778
Rear quarters probably wont fit, plaid facelift is significantly wider, and the car he picked up is pre facelift, hopefully he can still salvage the bumper cover and hatch though, looking hopeful on the hatch.
If they can get that quarter straightened out. Its easily within Kyles skill set to unstitch both the quarter AND the complete back panel (with the trunk lid striker/catch) off the parts car. I'd recommend a panel-beaters advice on the best places to cut the seams, as you only get one shot at that part.
They did most of the hard part already tbf.
But YOU'RE not. 😂
Out of the 2 integras that I’ve gone threw the rebuild process with in Florida.
When I went to get the inspection, all they looked at was the vin and the mileage!
They didn’t even look at the repair…
You guys rule! Thanks for everything!
Yeah the salvage to rebuilt title process here in Indiana just required me to get a state trooper to sign a form saying that it was road legal, all he did on mine was check to make sure all of the lights worked
It's actually pretty amazing that the hatch lines up as good as it does, with the old oak tree frame machine
Kyle! That hatch and bumper might work with some parts swapped, I think they're pretty similar although both parts were changed slightly during the plaid facelift, hopefully just harnesses to get em working right. The quarter panels for the rear are definitely different, the older car you just picked up has skinner fenders then the plaid so if you do manage to get it to fit they wont be as wide as the rest of the body of the car, might still be fine and just look goofy but just in case someone else doesn't tell ya first, it might be good to know.
He might be better off just trying to tweak the old fender back into place, it’s not far off
@@RileyNewcomb get what he can close and take chunks off the donor car to piece the rest of the crumpled up parts
it's close enough a good body shop or maybe themselves if they put enough effort can get things lined up thru brute force on the pass. side. Take the frame rail from the other one and swap that out for sure though.
For what it's worth, I'm really impressed with my outcome of the tesla with the strap and tree method. Great work, guys.
Good luck to you fellas on this project. One thing's for certain to come out of it,, when you're done imaginee how much you'll learn about work'n with aluminum.. The Boosted Boyz [and our] realm of knowledge continues growing!
So proud of you guys! Have come a long way. I'm always looking forward to the uploads.
I just wanna say congrats to you guys. Kyle and Wyatt have been working so hard growing the channel over the last few years. It's awesome watching the progress.
2:57 first thing they do is destroy the parts they need 😂😂😂😂.
@15:40 you're pointing and talking about the frame rail. That orange glue around the mounting point of the frame rail is the strongest glue I've ever dealt with. You will damage the casting trying to separate the rail from the hole it's in. That glue is stupid strong! You'll want to cut the rail off very close to the casing then cut pieces out and chisel at the glue and pry out the pieces. The rail goes about 3 inches into the casting. On the donor car carefully cut the cast piece away from the rail if you want to save the frame rail. I do believe you can find some OEM parts on ebay though.
New respect for you Kyle. Knowing those hammer taps move metal, and relax it into its new position, earned more of my respect. Right on my Boosted Brother!
Dude so awesome to see the content grow and diversify!
I say swap the whole rear. You and Wyatt can absolutely do it.
I am soo empresses by how well that worked! Great work boys!🎉🎉
Kudos to yall!! You boys did an outstanding job!
As long as you have a receipt in your name for the parts car you bought you can literally take it down like it is at the end of this video and you'll get your rebuilt title for it.
I've rebuilt over 30 cars in the past 20+ years and dealt with the regional DMV at Netpark in Tampa and they are pretty easy to get along with. The main thing is to call occasionally and check their rule changes because they change all the time.
When I first started doing it you didn't even have to fix blown airbags.
Same as Ohio, they only check to make sure stolen parts aren't on the car. They could give a fuck less how un-roadworthy it is. I'd drive that plaid anywhere though, I want one so bad.
@timcole421 the rules are perfect for private individuals doing it to keep the cars for a while. Unfortunately I've heard some horror stories about some of the shady crap resellers do to save a buck.
In Florida tho you don't see too many big dealers that sell rebuilt title cars.
@@jasonpoletta1797 Or yet this is a good example of a "doctored" car in its current state. LOTS of people buy salvage and do a LOT worse (talking welding broken spindles back together) work to make them look nice then put them back on the auction block to sell to some sap who couldn't come look at the car. The only saving grace is I hope these end up in Nigeria or all the other foreign bidders that drive the price up on everything.
Finally, a decent TH-cam video! Always a good day when the Boiz post a video!
did you miss the roomieoffical upload today... its been a great day for youtube content
Tezzy looks brand new... Hell yeah nice job boiz...👏🏾
I believe the plaid has wider rear quarters I think!
Ya they are a bit wider so I'm not sure they will fit!
Its not any wider, "new front bumper with additional air vents and new headlights. The Model S Plaid also has wider side skirts, a ducktail spoiler, and subtly revised 19-inch 'Tempest' alloy wheels"
Dude I am loving the tesla content. Especially the home fixes for almost no money
Home fixes on a $50,000 USD write off. haha
@@3UZFE 50? That is a six figure car lol
@@timcole421 He paid $50,000 from the salvage auction.
@@3UZFE Yeah and it is a 100k car
Your pull is mostly breaking welds, perhaps with a frame machine it would be possible. But doing it like this usually means it will not be approved by DOT.
so much better cant wait to see it finshed well done lads
After reading the specs on the new upcoming FT700 I already know what you guys up to 💪🏽✌🏽
gonna be a sick "prius":)
i just watched a few videos on the prius ft700 and its pretty crazy.... im pretty lost on how they are using oxygen and acetylene as a power adder
What do you think they will do?
Just do an unlocked Fueltech FT700 Tesla Plaid or do you think they will try to do a crazy hybride?
I don't really think a K something will fit for example, without an insane amount of work or maybe not even ever.
I still hope the just do it the easy way and unlock the full power and speed with the upcoming Ingenext plugin unlock module for the Tesla S Plaid th-cam.com/video/0N95g8pM6Eg/w-d-xo.html
And then take it on some half mile drag events and do some weight mods and run it in Cleatus spectator drag.
With the way they're talking I feel like he's planning to cut the panels off and exocage it to make an E-Roy.
@@testarossagzb5582 for shits and giggles my prediction is an e-sand rail. btw all of the FT controllers will support electric.
Have you verified that a non -Tesla approved repaired car will ever be allowed to charge thru their network. I have a feeling you're in for a big surprise.
I don't think that's much of a factor for what he has planned. He can still use other DC fast charger networks anyhow. EA is pretty big.
My understanding is if it’s not repaired through the network you’ll never get your charging privileges back
It's the boostedBOTS. Ole Witt will hard wire a fuel tech controlled 220 plug offna a welder ifin need be 😂
I wish I could help him! Been a body tech a long time and it’s so close to lining up just a few more tweaks and I could get the hatch fitting cherry🥵 doing a good job with a tree and strap though!!! Frame rail that’s crunched is loaded with orange panel bonder to the unibody so make sure you heat it with a torch before trying those bolts in case they are coated in it. Some panel bonds take up to 900 degrees to release and can be stronger than welding so keep that in mind if it doesn’t budge just more heat. Good luck buddy!
For anyone interested the DMV will not be inspecting any damage repair done on salvage cars. All they care about are the airbags and vin numbers on any "major" parts replaced.
It 100% is not a safety inspection.
I've seen cars go through that didn't have any repair work done at all.
You and Whistlin Diesel have some very different ideas on Teslas today. Lol.
Yo guys, get yourself a porta power set, they are almost as good as an oak tree, love your channel ❤️
Almost 🤣
I think it looks way better than before. Nicely done fellas. The car looks bran new.........ish!!!
Dude that came out badass!!! Keep up the great work
When WhistlinDiesel uploaded video of a Tesla at the same time 😅😅
Shade Tree body works lol. You do what you got to do. Looking much better 👌
Very impressive Kyle!! I like it brother
At first I wasn't so sure swapp'n out the hatch's was a good idea - until the uarters and other parts are done - but once they were I could see how making that swap and the bumper serves to help motivate yourselves to continue the remaining work. Lov'n how much better it looks after just one afternoon's sweat and maybe a little blood :)
14:12 hooooolyyyy spooks thats amaaaaazing 😮😮😮😮
Rear body panel, trunk floor, some pulling, new hatch, new taillights, new rear bumper and you'll be good. The pulling of the "frame rails" should help straighten the quarters and some minor bodywork would get them right. Or just section in the quarters at the sail panel and dog legs
Body boiz collision repair. 10/10
I rode in a Hyundai Iconiq5 ? 320hp and was impressed as hell with the acceleration not having been in any fast cars lately. Those Plaids have to be insane. Nice job on the days work!!!
Definitely looks a lot better well done 💪
Boyz I need that RD1! She looks clean!
With all the good sheet metal from the burnt car, and the fact you guys can weld, I would try and do a cut and splice job on it!
You got an amazing deal on the 🔥 Tesla! I know that there's not much left of it, but well worth it for the parts that you need.
Nice from far-Far from nice! LOOKS GOOD
Props to the new camera guy, great work boosted fab
I would swap the whole quarter. I know it would be a good bit of work, but you never know. Looking forward to seeing what you do with it!
I must say that cut to the bumper bar flying off was pretty good😄 Well done on the bodywork as well, it's always going to be better then what it was so that's a great starting point. While I've never been a body man myself I always find it fascinating to understand. Watching the old school body guys like Coldwarmotors (great guy; well worth a follow) you get a better understanding of the process. And so far you guys weren't far off. Given the hard hit your never going to get it right with the original sheet metal, but getting it back into the position it should have been would also be a body shops first step. You always have to thing in the reversal of the process that caused it. So putting tension on the quarter in the opposite direction it was hit in and tapping the mangled metal that was pushed forward wasn't wrong at all. Once in the location it should have been you start replacing the rear end by as you also correctly suggested drilling out the spot welds of the damaged body panels as it would have been mounted in the factory, again reversal of the process of assembly. Get all it correctly aligned, reweld a viola you have done some proper crash damage repair. Given your track record I'd be sceptical to see it get to that point but hey A for afford; well done so far👍
It's a lot better! Nice work.
Pretty sure the rear quarters on the plaid are wider than the P100D. Something to be aware of if you're considering swapping them.
I hope this swap works and you get the plaid fixed up, but from my understanding the plaid is a total remodel in terms of engineering and so on, so nothing should be straight swappable without minor modifications through-out
Lift up the RR quarter from the bumper area. To pull the buckle out above the wheel. Bolt a 4"x4" steel plate with an eyelet on to that area under that taillight and pull strap it there.
That’s impressive well done Kyle 👍
Nice bit of back yard innovation a few pills and it's looking great 👍 you should be able to mix and match enough bits from both cars to get the hatch sorted 👌 great work 🤘
If I'm not mistaken the plaid is wider at the back than other model s'.
Great video. I'm really enjoying the Tesla videos 💙👊
Awesome work brother you guys are so brave hooking to a tree a just pulling like a boss
Love the eVTuned frame machine
Personally I like your idea with fixing it. Keep at the hard work man💪🏻
Close enough to just adjust the striker and bump stops 🤣👌🏼 I think the qtr panel is around where it should be but the rear where the striker for the latch is is bent so the liftgate fit is off. You basically got it 💪🏼
Wish me a happy birthday Kyle 🎂. Great content as always.
Do the quarter and spare wheel well might as well get it over with so theres no issues switching it over
Wow you have yourself a good flip with that or something really nice
The good ole trusty tree 😁👌 they can be a blessing and a curse.
A Boostedboiz x Goonzquad collab would be fire
Nice work lads
Put a strap through the right rear quarter and tie it up high on the tree with a ladder and drive forward, should pull it out and up and line everything up! It is looking 90% better even if the structure is still just as bad, hahaha.
That Tesla and your Ford Super duty both have something in common. Aluminum Bodies
definately did some good. i think the structural beam once changed like you said and all the what nots buttoned up itll pass inspection. doesnt need to be perfect just safe in their books :D
Incredible boys 👍👍
Best auto / body channel on TH-cam.
Put a jack on inside frame rail. Use a softner of some sort and lift the quarter. May come up more
Reminds me of a garage I used to work at they would connect a forklift to things and let it rip 😂 fair play tho that's actually a decent job you did I bet it felt good at the end of the day seeing what you managed to do
Kyle, considering what you were using to pull that thing out, it actually came out looking pretty good!😄👍
You should look into getting a power pack set. Hydraulic ram with different attachments to straighten frames and body damage. It will allow more control so you don't over stretch things and cause more problems.
Damn son that thing is looking really good!
so were did the Black NSX come from lol and GREAT JOB USING THE TREE FOR THE TESLA
unreal job, that is sick
lol you guys are a trip i freaking love it
A professional body work shop wouldn't touch that. You Boiz are nutz lol
This build process is starting to feel like a BisforBuild project. 👍🏼👍🏼
You HAVE to name this thing Terminator… you even said “the metal has a memory” 💪😎😂😂👌
Wow, a Tesla is its own frame pulling machine. Outstanding.
Yo I’m not gonna lie that thing looks 1000 times better than before, great work y’all should call it sexy nightmare lol 😂😂😂
I'm sure you have thought of it since posting this but, doing the same process to bend the area for the hatch latch can be replicated using a higher point of pull on the tree. You will be able to utilize the tension of the angle and the torque from the motor to pull that pass. side upwards and out at the same time. Give me a shout-out if it works!
If you are closer to Wisconsin I would be honored to do that for you Kyle. It's kind of a good time not very busy.. you really need a frame machine.
bro that worked crazy good! boosted bodywork ftw!
if you cut all that mangled sheet metal out it will be easy to move the panels and get the frame pieces in just leave the rear rail that the gasket and latch is on and cut the rest under it out. once you get it all straight enuf you just replace it with the good metal from the doner
Hey bud. Certified autobody mechanic of 20 years here. Aluminum likes to rip as you can see from under the latch. I know it’s content, but you have the back half of a perfectly good, burnt to the ground Tesla.
The time you’ve spent on this, you probably could have moved everything over. I’m sure your future plans, are going to effect the amount of work your doing. It’s definitely fun to watch!