You should ask Cleetus for who fixed neighbor after that crashed. They cut the whole rear off and put one on. A quarter panel and a bit more sheet metal should be no problem, especially since you already have the donor.
@@firefly2472 I think the rear support, legs and aluminum sheeting should be fine. It's away from the battery and the wiring that is there is is probably found on most new cars, lights, reverse camera, hatch motor etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. If it was under body damage then that's a different story but that rear panel and quarter can be spliced and welded in. I'm sure Kyle isn't expecting a show car worthy finish, considering the car will probably be altered drastically in the future. The Tesla like most cars now is designed to crumple and absorb energy, engineers know not to put anything dangerous there because it's a impact zone. I did some time in a frame shop and that thought me how cars are built for safety and everything else comes second nowadays. My boss said any car pre 1970 was built for function first and then what ever was left for safety afterwards.
The quarter panels are very different between the P100D and the Plaid. Plaid has a wider arch to handle the wider rear track. Put the car on a frame machine and replace that rear panel , RH rail and the floor sections , most of the rear of Model S is held together with pop rivets and glue. Try and save the quarter.
I used to work for LKQ and sold "cuts" to body shops. A real legit body shop can cut the back of the car off, and weld your new one to it. When they are done you'll be hard pressed to notice anything. You'd have to crawl underneath and notice the welds.
I've worked in said bodyshops with those kinda panel beaters. Sometimes, even if you crawled underneath, you still wouldn't be able to tell it wasn't a normal repair with brand new parts or even a repair at all.
I think he's doing a good job all things considered. Every Tesla crash I see, it gets totaled for the most insignificant damage ever, so I feel like no one wants to actually work on them. Electric cars are probably gonna become like phones, throw them out as soon as the smallest thing breaks after a couple years. But it's better for the environment, right???? 😁
Exactly. Car damage and buckled metal always looks worse than it is when it's been rear ended. Roll overs, barrel rolls are a different story once all 4 wheels have left the ground
If your replacing the quarterpanel replace the rear panels too thats light work compared the quarter panel makes it easy to fix the inside too also gets your hatch to shut on the right place good luck boiz
Kyle! That hatch and bumper might work with some parts swapped, I think they're pretty similar although both parts were changed slightly during the plaid facelift, hopefully just harnesses to get em working right. The quarter panels for the rear are definitely different, the older car you just picked up has skinner fenders then the plaid so if you do manage to get it to fit they wont be as wide as the rest of the body of the car, might still be fine and just look goofy but just in case someone else doesn't tell ya first, it might be good to know.
it's close enough a good body shop or maybe themselves if they put enough effort can get things lined up thru brute force on the pass. side. Take the frame rail from the other one and swap that out for sure though.
Out of the 2 integras that I’ve gone threw the rebuild process with in Florida. When I went to get the inspection, all they looked at was the vin and the mileage! They didn’t even look at the repair… You guys rule! Thanks for everything!
Yeah the salvage to rebuilt title process here in Indiana just required me to get a state trooper to sign a form saying that it was road legal, all he did on mine was check to make sure all of the lights worked
There is over $500 in doors on that rig! Sick buy buddy!! I honestly suspected you may be using the drivetrain from the plaid for the tube chassis civic lol. Cool idea if you do but either way excited to see what you do with both the plaid and the tube chassis civic 👍👍👍
Good luck to you fellas on this project. One thing's for certain to come out of it,, when you're done imaginee how much you'll learn about work'n with aluminum.. The Boosted Boyz [and our] realm of knowledge continues growing!
For anyone interested the DMV will not be inspecting any damage repair done on salvage cars. All they care about are the airbags and vin numbers on any "major" parts replaced. It 100% is not a safety inspection. I've seen cars go through that didn't have any repair work done at all.
Hey Kyle I seen your video about getting the Honda painted and wanting to upgrade the headlights if you are interested I can build you a set of custom retrofit headlights. If you are interested let me know we can work something out
Rear quarters probably wont fit, plaid facelift is significantly wider, and the car he picked up is pre facelift, hopefully he can still salvage the bumper cover and hatch though, looking hopeful on the hatch.
If they can get that quarter straightened out. Its easily within Kyles skill set to unstitch both the quarter AND the complete back panel (with the trunk lid striker/catch) off the parts car. I'd recommend a panel-beaters advice on the best places to cut the seams, as you only get one shot at that part. They did most of the hard part already tbf.
@15:40 you're pointing and talking about the frame rail. That orange glue around the mounting point of the frame rail is the strongest glue I've ever dealt with. You will damage the casting trying to separate the rail from the hole it's in. That glue is stupid strong! You'll want to cut the rail off very close to the casing then cut pieces out and chisel at the glue and pry out the pieces. The rail goes about 3 inches into the casting. On the donor car carefully cut the cast piece away from the rail if you want to save the frame rail. I do believe you can find some OEM parts on ebay though.
As long as you have a receipt in your name for the parts car you bought you can literally take it down like it is at the end of this video and you'll get your rebuilt title for it. I've rebuilt over 30 cars in the past 20+ years and dealt with the regional DMV at Netpark in Tampa and they are pretty easy to get along with. The main thing is to call occasionally and check their rule changes because they change all the time. When I first started doing it you didn't even have to fix blown airbags.
Same as Ohio, they only check to make sure stolen parts aren't on the car. They could give a fuck less how un-roadworthy it is. I'd drive that plaid anywhere though, I want one so bad.
@timcole421 the rules are perfect for private individuals doing it to keep the cars for a while. Unfortunately I've heard some horror stories about some of the shady crap resellers do to save a buck. In Florida tho you don't see too many big dealers that sell rebuilt title cars.
@@jasonpoletta1797 Or yet this is a good example of a "doctored" car in its current state. LOTS of people buy salvage and do a LOT worse (talking welding broken spindles back together) work to make them look nice then put them back on the auction block to sell to some sap who couldn't come look at the car. The only saving grace is I hope these end up in Nigeria or all the other foreign bidders that drive the price up on everything.
Maybe You need to Cut the good back parts from Other Tesla Out, and to weld it than with the original Factore mass on the original Factore points back on to your Tesla, and maybe you need to Cut also the left and ride Back Side stop Light walls, and to Change that to!!!
Its not any wider, "new front bumper with additional air vents and new headlights. The Model S Plaid also has wider side skirts, a ducktail spoiler, and subtly revised 19-inch 'Tempest' alloy wheels"
New respect for you Kyle. Knowing those hammer taps move metal, and relax it into its new position, earned more of my respect. Right on my Boosted Brother!
What do you think they will do? Just do an unlocked Fueltech FT700 Tesla Plaid or do you think they will try to do a crazy hybride? I don't really think a K something will fit for example, without an insane amount of work or maybe not even ever. I still hope the just do it the easy way and unlock the full power and speed with the upcoming Ingenext plugin unlock module for the Tesla S Plaid th-cam.com/video/0N95g8pM6Eg/w-d-xo.html And then take it on some half mile drag events and do some weight mods and run it in Cleatus spectator drag.
I hope this swap works and you get the plaid fixed up, but from my understanding the plaid is a total remodel in terms of engineering and so on, so nothing should be straight swappable without minor modifications through-out
I just wanna say congrats to you guys. Kyle and Wyatt have been working so hard growing the channel over the last few years. It's awesome watching the progress.
Have you verified that a non -Tesla approved repaired car will ever be allowed to charge thru their network. I have a feeling you're in for a big surprise.
I wish I could help him! Been a body tech a long time and it’s so close to lining up just a few more tweaks and I could get the hatch fitting cherry🥵 doing a good job with a tree and strap though!!! Frame rail that’s crunched is loaded with orange panel bonder to the unibody so make sure you heat it with a torch before trying those bolts in case they are coated in it. Some panel bonds take up to 900 degrees to release and can be stronger than welding so keep that in mind if it doesn’t budge just more heat. Good luck buddy!
I rode in a Hyundai Iconiq5 ? 320hp and was impressed as hell with the acceleration not having been in any fast cars lately. Those Plaids have to be insane. Nice job on the days work!!!
I'm sure you have thought of it since posting this but, doing the same process to bend the area for the hatch latch can be replicated using a higher point of pull on the tree. You will be able to utilize the tension of the angle and the torque from the motor to pull that pass. side upwards and out at the same time. Give me a shout-out if it works!
You should look into getting a power pack set. Hydraulic ram with different attachments to straighten frames and body damage. It will allow more control so you don't over stretch things and cause more problems.
Lift up the RR quarter from the bumper area. To pull the buckle out above the wheel. Bolt a 4"x4" steel plate with an eyelet on to that area under that taillight and pull strap it there.
Put a strap through the right rear quarter and tie it up high on the tree with a ladder and drive forward, should pull it out and up and line everything up! It is looking 90% better even if the structure is still just as bad, hahaha.
Close enough to just adjust the striker and bump stops 🤣👌🏼 I think the qtr panel is around where it should be but the rear where the striker for the latch is is bent so the liftgate fit is off. You basically got it 💪🏼
"we're getting a new sidewalk, making that property value go up" **proceeds to drag a half burnt shell of a car across the driveway and park it beside a line of other half finished project cars** so much for the property value 🤣🤣🤣
Your pull is mostly breaking welds, perhaps with a frame machine it would be possible. But doing it like this usually means it will not be approved by DOT.
if you cut all that mangled sheet metal out it will be easy to move the panels and get the frame pieces in just leave the rear rail that the gasket and latch is on and cut the rest under it out. once you get it all straight enuf you just replace it with the good metal from the doner
At first I wasn't so sure swapp'n out the hatch's was a good idea - until the uarters and other parts are done - but once they were I could see how making that swap and the bumper serves to help motivate yourselves to continue the remaining work. Lov'n how much better it looks after just one afternoon's sweat and maybe a little blood :)
Hint cut out all of the rear section panels straighten the crash rails on the interior and weld the new panels and stuff off the burnt one! It's easier to move stuff if the known replaced parts are!
I must say that cut to the bumper bar flying off was pretty good😄 Well done on the bodywork as well, it's always going to be better then what it was so that's a great starting point. While I've never been a body man myself I always find it fascinating to understand. Watching the old school body guys like Coldwarmotors (great guy; well worth a follow) you get a better understanding of the process. And so far you guys weren't far off. Given the hard hit your never going to get it right with the original sheet metal, but getting it back into the position it should have been would also be a body shops first step. You always have to thing in the reversal of the process that caused it. So putting tension on the quarter in the opposite direction it was hit in and tapping the mangled metal that was pushed forward wasn't wrong at all. Once in the location it should have been you start replacing the rear end by as you also correctly suggested drilling out the spot welds of the damaged body panels as it would have been mounted in the factory, again reversal of the process of assembly. Get all it correctly aligned, reweld a viola you have done some proper crash damage repair. Given your track record I'd be sceptical to see it get to that point but hey A for afford; well done so far👍
Kyle send that thing to a body shop just to be pulled on a frame machine it will probably cost you 500 bucks but they will pull it straight so you can cut out the bad metal and when you attach the new stuff it straight
you should try to get at least the whole bottom rear of the donor , preferably do the passenger side rearquarter panel still atached too it , the spotwelds should be hidden away enough behind rubber sills inside bagage compartment and behind windows that you can rattlecan the bare spots after welding everything back together with a migwelder and not have to respray the car yes its more work but the car will be basicly back like it left the factory , seems like you be able to drill out everything without to mush throuble on the plaid after cutting away most of the damaged sheetmetal and with the donor you go the other way around and drill out from the backside my guess is the best thing to do is readying the piece cut off the donor is doing it in the grassy spot as that whont scratch the paintwork like a concrete floor would (would still tape a lot of it off with painterstape ) less likely to dent things too make pictures and measure between holes in the bodyworklike from the front seatbelt connection across to the other side and to a hole in the rear corner of the hatch sill , and then see if you can hit the same measurements on the plaid with the piece clamped on before final welding , probably be realy close after putting the new structural member in there and bolting it up to the rearpiece and rear quarter combo clamped around the rear doorsill you might need to get the rear of to slide the structural piece in there anyway so you might as well do it the right way try to save the windows of the donor , they probably be worth something to someone who had their testla broken intoo doors probably be worth enough to get youre investment on the donor back too please dont hack things up because youre in a hurry you got all the sheetmetal and its in the right colour to do it the right way
Boosted plaid here we gooooo! He is gng to do a Fuel Tech Hybrid Honda/Tesla deal. Or gng to try and add more battery's and or motors or both to be a "boosted" Plaid. Watch I am calling it now and did in the original video also thats what their top secret project is and will be. So pumped for it also
I was thinking when you were trying to pull the rear quarter up to meet the hatch that if you pull it out at the bottom of the quarter section, it should twist upward because the impact of that crash may have pushed the bottom part in causing the whole quarter to twist downward.
Go to same day title inspection in Miami (hialeah) they get you in and out in 15 min with your inspection Complete , they are not too in depth with the inspection.
put a bottle jack on the inside on top of the frame and pack a bunch of rolled up jeans or something between the jack and the area around the top of the tail light to conform to its shape and then slowly jack it up into position to it matches the hatch..
You have all the parts needed, JUST DO IT! cut the back off the other one and graph it on. remove the quarter first just encase you need it, take a 4x4 board and wedge it into the tail light while the car is jacked up then slowly drop it. Drop it fast if it barely moves 👌 you have a spool gun and the areas you need to weld are hidden behind a bumper.
I don’t know Florida rules but here in Washington the inspection for re licensing a totaled car they only want receipts for parts and make sure all the vin numbers match, that’s it. I did it with a truck I totaled and didn’t even fix it and it passed.
Nice bit of back yard innovation a few pills and it's looking great 👍 you should be able to mix and match enough bits from both cars to get the hatch sorted 👌 great work 🤘
Hey bud. Certified autobody mechanic of 20 years here. Aluminum likes to rip as you can see from under the latch. I know it’s content, but you have the back half of a perfectly good, burnt to the ground Tesla. The time you’ve spent on this, you probably could have moved everything over. I’m sure your future plans, are going to effect the amount of work your doing. It’s definitely fun to watch!
You should ask Cleetus for who fixed neighbor after that crashed. They cut the whole rear off and put one on. A quarter panel and a bit more sheet metal should be no problem, especially since you already have the donor.
With al those electronics and stuff ? Thats gona cost yah more that they want to spend on it i think.
@@firefly2472 I think the rear support, legs and aluminum sheeting should be fine. It's away from the battery and the wiring that is there is is probably found on most new cars, lights, reverse camera, hatch motor etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. If it was under body damage then that's a different story but that rear panel and quarter can be spliced and welded in. I'm sure Kyle isn't expecting a show car worthy finish, considering the car will probably be altered drastically in the future.
The Tesla like most cars now is designed to crumple and absorb energy, engineers know not to put anything dangerous there because it's a impact zone. I did some time in a frame shop and that thought me how cars are built for safety and everything else comes second nowadays. My boss said any car pre 1970 was built for function first and then what ever was left for safety afterwards.
Came here to say the exact same thing
Damn dude can’t prolly buy that bare bones trunk lid for $500
That Tesla isn't as bad that it needs a rear section replaced
The quarter panels are very different between the P100D and the Plaid.
Plaid has a wider arch to handle the wider rear track.
Put the car on a frame machine and replace that rear panel , RH rail and the floor sections , most of the rear of Model S is held together with pop rivets and glue.
Try and save the quarter.
I used to work for LKQ and sold "cuts" to body shops. A real legit body shop can cut the back of the car off, and weld your new one to it. When they are done you'll be hard pressed to notice anything. You'd have to crawl underneath and notice the welds.
It’s called a cut and shut job. Now look up what happens to a cut and shut car when it gets crashed…… a real legit body shop won’t don’t do that.
They don't need to go that far and it's a bad Idea. half cuts aren't safe and many times will never be strait.
@@christopherbeevor9315 bawl those eyes out
I've worked in said bodyshops with those kinda panel beaters. Sometimes, even if you crawled underneath, you still wouldn't be able to tell it wasn't a normal repair with brand new parts or even a repair at all.
@@fast97z24 said a guy named c*nt and son
Take it and the shell to the guys that fixed Neighbor for Cleetus. They did a hell of a job and it looked mint.
He’s too cheap to do all that , unless ol cleeter gets him a discount
That's a GREAT note Courtney. Those gents at that body shop are awesome
was just going to suggest that
Always a good day when boostedboyz uploads a video
Fax 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Yes sir.
AlWaYs A GoOd DaY wHeN ..... uPlOaDs
Honestly 😅
Boostedboiz**
What a great deal. It's like a sore pecker, you can't beat it! Congratulations!
You just lack determination
Lol
The comment section never let's me down after a rough day.
😂😂😂
Dude,,, that's funny! Peace ✌️
'I know a guy that can do it cheaper'
This is the guy 🤣
Tool of choice? A freaking tree🤣🌳
@@ricardo1e93 A stupid idea that works, isn't a stupid idea 🤣
He’s got an oak tree frame machine!
I think he's doing a good job all things considered. Every Tesla crash I see, it gets totaled for the most insignificant damage ever, so I feel like no one wants to actually work on them. Electric cars are probably gonna become like phones, throw them out as soon as the smallest thing breaks after a couple years. But it's better for the environment, right???? 😁
A bottle jack and a couple blocks of wood will do a good job in a more controlled manner.
But you guys did a killer job with that tree 😅
Exactly. Car damage and buckled metal always looks worse than it is when it's been rear ended. Roll overs, barrel rolls are a different story once all 4 wheels have left the ground
Helps when the car has that much instant torque.
Pre-prediction: cutting old the running plaid body and tubing it like Leroy! Call it E-roy!
That's a good idea
Nope definitely not
@@feverdream2661told ya.
I Called it. I Even got the name right.
If your replacing the quarterpanel replace the rear panels too thats light work compared the quarter panel makes it easy to fix the inside too also gets your hatch to shut on the right place good luck boiz
Kyle! That hatch and bumper might work with some parts swapped, I think they're pretty similar although both parts were changed slightly during the plaid facelift, hopefully just harnesses to get em working right. The quarter panels for the rear are definitely different, the older car you just picked up has skinner fenders then the plaid so if you do manage to get it to fit they wont be as wide as the rest of the body of the car, might still be fine and just look goofy but just in case someone else doesn't tell ya first, it might be good to know.
He might be better off just trying to tweak the old fender back into place, it’s not far off
@@RileyNewcomb get what he can close and take chunks off the donor car to piece the rest of the crumpled up parts
it's close enough a good body shop or maybe themselves if they put enough effort can get things lined up thru brute force on the pass. side. Take the frame rail from the other one and swap that out for sure though.
Out of the 2 integras that I’ve gone threw the rebuild process with in Florida.
When I went to get the inspection, all they looked at was the vin and the mileage!
They didn’t even look at the repair…
You guys rule! Thanks for everything!
Yeah the salvage to rebuilt title process here in Indiana just required me to get a state trooper to sign a form saying that it was road legal, all he did on mine was check to make sure all of the lights worked
There is over $500 in doors on that rig! Sick buy buddy!! I honestly suspected you may be using the drivetrain from the plaid for the tube chassis civic lol. Cool idea if you do but either way excited to see what you do with both the plaid and the tube chassis civic 👍👍👍
Good luck to you fellas on this project. One thing's for certain to come out of it,, when you're done imaginee how much you'll learn about work'n with aluminum.. The Boosted Boyz [and our] realm of knowledge continues growing!
damn...i was thinking Kyles balling out on this thing. but $500 is a nuts deal lol
not really. all that's left is some.trim panels and a hatch lid. the rest is useless. It's worth maybe $600 if you part it out. $125 scrap.
@@dustyc324 a hatch alone with glass is around 1000
@@dustyc324 lol just pulling numbers out your ass there. There are a couple thousand dollars worth of parts/ panels left.
@@CantFocus I don't see it.
@@dustyc324 Which means... that you are blind and don't see the value. Doesn't mean it's not worth more than what you're saying.
It's actually pretty amazing that the hatch lines up as good as it does, with the old oak tree frame machine
For what it's worth, I'm really impressed with my outcome of the tesla with the strap and tree method. Great work, guys.
For anyone interested the DMV will not be inspecting any damage repair done on salvage cars. All they care about are the airbags and vin numbers on any "major" parts replaced.
It 100% is not a safety inspection.
I've seen cars go through that didn't have any repair work done at all.
Hey Kyle I seen your video about getting the Honda painted and wanting to upgrade the headlights if you are interested I can build you a set of custom retrofit headlights. If you are interested let me know we can work something out
So proud of you guys! Have come a long way. I'm always looking forward to the uploads.
With your welding skills and common sense you should have no problem doing the rear quarters. Your a smart guy
yore*
@@mcf3778
Rear quarters probably wont fit, plaid facelift is significantly wider, and the car he picked up is pre facelift, hopefully he can still salvage the bumper cover and hatch though, looking hopeful on the hatch.
If they can get that quarter straightened out. Its easily within Kyles skill set to unstitch both the quarter AND the complete back panel (with the trunk lid striker/catch) off the parts car. I'd recommend a panel-beaters advice on the best places to cut the seams, as you only get one shot at that part.
They did most of the hard part already tbf.
But YOU'RE not. 😂
@15:40 you're pointing and talking about the frame rail. That orange glue around the mounting point of the frame rail is the strongest glue I've ever dealt with. You will damage the casting trying to separate the rail from the hole it's in. That glue is stupid strong! You'll want to cut the rail off very close to the casing then cut pieces out and chisel at the glue and pry out the pieces. The rail goes about 3 inches into the casting. On the donor car carefully cut the cast piece away from the rail if you want to save the frame rail. I do believe you can find some OEM parts on ebay though.
As long as you have a receipt in your name for the parts car you bought you can literally take it down like it is at the end of this video and you'll get your rebuilt title for it.
I've rebuilt over 30 cars in the past 20+ years and dealt with the regional DMV at Netpark in Tampa and they are pretty easy to get along with. The main thing is to call occasionally and check their rule changes because they change all the time.
When I first started doing it you didn't even have to fix blown airbags.
Same as Ohio, they only check to make sure stolen parts aren't on the car. They could give a fuck less how un-roadworthy it is. I'd drive that plaid anywhere though, I want one so bad.
@timcole421 the rules are perfect for private individuals doing it to keep the cars for a while. Unfortunately I've heard some horror stories about some of the shady crap resellers do to save a buck.
In Florida tho you don't see too many big dealers that sell rebuilt title cars.
@@jasonpoletta1797 Or yet this is a good example of a "doctored" car in its current state. LOTS of people buy salvage and do a LOT worse (talking welding broken spindles back together) work to make them look nice then put them back on the auction block to sell to some sap who couldn't come look at the car. The only saving grace is I hope these end up in Nigeria or all the other foreign bidders that drive the price up on everything.
Maybe You need to Cut the good back parts from Other Tesla Out, and to weld it than with the original Factore mass on the original Factore points back on to your Tesla, and maybe you need to Cut also the left and ride Back Side stop Light walls, and to Change that to!!!
I believe the plaid has wider rear quarters I think!
Ya they are a bit wider so I'm not sure they will fit!
Its not any wider, "new front bumper with additional air vents and new headlights. The Model S Plaid also has wider side skirts, a ducktail spoiler, and subtly revised 19-inch 'Tempest' alloy wheels"
New respect for you Kyle. Knowing those hammer taps move metal, and relax it into its new position, earned more of my respect. Right on my Boosted Brother!
After reading the specs on the new upcoming FT700 I already know what you guys up to 💪🏽✌🏽
gonna be a sick "prius":)
i just watched a few videos on the prius ft700 and its pretty crazy.... im pretty lost on how they are using oxygen and acetylene as a power adder
What do you think they will do?
Just do an unlocked Fueltech FT700 Tesla Plaid or do you think they will try to do a crazy hybride?
I don't really think a K something will fit for example, without an insane amount of work or maybe not even ever.
I still hope the just do it the easy way and unlock the full power and speed with the upcoming Ingenext plugin unlock module for the Tesla S Plaid th-cam.com/video/0N95g8pM6Eg/w-d-xo.html
And then take it on some half mile drag events and do some weight mods and run it in Cleatus spectator drag.
With the way they're talking I feel like he's planning to cut the panels off and exocage it to make an E-Roy.
@@testarossagzb5582 for shits and giggles my prediction is an e-sand rail. btw all of the FT controllers will support electric.
I hope this swap works and you get the plaid fixed up, but from my understanding the plaid is a total remodel in terms of engineering and so on, so nothing should be straight swappable without minor modifications through-out
I say swap the whole rear. You and Wyatt can absolutely do it.
I just wanna say congrats to you guys. Kyle and Wyatt have been working so hard growing the channel over the last few years. It's awesome watching the progress.
With all the good sheet metal from the burnt car, and the fact you guys can weld, I would try and do a cut and splice job on it!
Have you verified that a non -Tesla approved repaired car will ever be allowed to charge thru their network. I have a feeling you're in for a big surprise.
I don't think that's much of a factor for what he has planned. He can still use other DC fast charger networks anyhow. EA is pretty big.
My understanding is if it’s not repaired through the network you’ll never get your charging privileges back
It's the boostedBOTS. Ole Witt will hard wire a fuel tech controlled 220 plug offna a welder ifin need be 😂
"Now let's tap around it with a hammer." Proceeds to grab a 10lb sledge and and goes to town. Boosted Boiz Body Work - "We'll get you kind of ok"
Finally, a decent TH-cam video! Always a good day when the Boiz post a video!
did you miss the roomieoffical upload today... its been a great day for youtube content
I wish I could help him! Been a body tech a long time and it’s so close to lining up just a few more tweaks and I could get the hatch fitting cherry🥵 doing a good job with a tree and strap though!!! Frame rail that’s crunched is loaded with orange panel bonder to the unibody so make sure you heat it with a torch before trying those bolts in case they are coated in it. Some panel bonds take up to 900 degrees to release and can be stronger than welding so keep that in mind if it doesn’t budge just more heat. Good luck buddy!
Dude I am loving the tesla content. Especially the home fixes for almost no money
Home fixes on a $50,000 USD write off. haha
@@3UZFE 50? That is a six figure car lol
@@timcole421 He paid $50,000 from the salvage auction.
@@3UZFE Yeah and it is a 100k car
I am soo empresses by how well that worked! Great work boys!🎉🎉
2:57 first thing they do is destroy the parts they need 😂😂😂😂.
You and Whistlin Diesel have some very different ideas on Teslas today. Lol.
I rode in a Hyundai Iconiq5 ? 320hp and was impressed as hell with the acceleration not having been in any fast cars lately. Those Plaids have to be insane. Nice job on the days work!!!
Dude so awesome to see the content grow and diversify!
Pretty sure the rear quarters on the plaid are wider than the P100D. Something to be aware of if you're considering swapping them.
Yo guys, get yourself a porta power set, they are almost as good as an oak tree, love your channel ❤️
Almost 🤣
I'm sure you have thought of it since posting this but, doing the same process to bend the area for the hatch latch can be replicated using a higher point of pull on the tree. You will be able to utilize the tension of the angle and the torque from the motor to pull that pass. side upwards and out at the same time. Give me a shout-out if it works!
When WhistlinDiesel uploaded video of a Tesla at the same time 😅😅
You should look into getting a power pack set. Hydraulic ram with different attachments to straighten frames and body damage. It will allow more control so you don't over stretch things and cause more problems.
Lift up the RR quarter from the bumper area. To pull the buckle out above the wheel. Bolt a 4"x4" steel plate with an eyelet on to that area under that taillight and pull strap it there.
Put a strap through the right rear quarter and tie it up high on the tree with a ladder and drive forward, should pull it out and up and line everything up! It is looking 90% better even if the structure is still just as bad, hahaha.
Close enough to just adjust the striker and bump stops 🤣👌🏼 I think the qtr panel is around where it should be but the rear where the striker for the latch is is bent so the liftgate fit is off. You basically got it 💪🏼
A Boostedboiz x Goonzquad collab would be fire
"we're getting a new sidewalk, making that property value go up"
**proceeds to drag a half burnt shell of a car across the driveway and park it beside a line of other half finished project cars**
so much for the property value 🤣🤣🤣
Your pull is mostly breaking welds, perhaps with a frame machine it would be possible. But doing it like this usually means it will not be approved by DOT.
I would swap the whole quarter. I know it would be a good bit of work, but you never know. Looking forward to seeing what you do with it!
if you cut all that mangled sheet metal out it will be easy to move the panels and get the frame pieces in just leave the rear rail that the gasket and latch is on and cut the rest under it out. once you get it all straight enuf you just replace it with the good metal from the doner
At first I wasn't so sure swapp'n out the hatch's was a good idea - until the uarters and other parts are done - but once they were I could see how making that swap and the bumper serves to help motivate yourselves to continue the remaining work. Lov'n how much better it looks after just one afternoon's sweat and maybe a little blood :)
Hint cut out all of the rear section panels straighten the crash rails on the interior and weld the new panels and stuff off the burnt one! It's easier to move stuff if the known replaced parts are!
holy crap when you showed it at the end with taillights and bumper on I thought you were trolling by showing another tesla lol. Very impressive work.
That Tesla and your Ford Super duty both have something in common. Aluminum Bodies
Tezzy looks brand new... Hell yeah nice job boiz...👏🏾
14:12 hooooolyyyy spooks thats amaaaaazing 😮😮😮😮
What about taking it to the place that fixed Cleetus's "Neighbor" rear end damage? I think they could make it like new.
Shade Tree body works lol. You do what you got to do. Looking much better 👌
Have always liked the idea that the plaid is really the ultimate sleeper. Can’t tell the difference from the outside.
I must say that cut to the bumper bar flying off was pretty good😄 Well done on the bodywork as well, it's always going to be better then what it was so that's a great starting point. While I've never been a body man myself I always find it fascinating to understand. Watching the old school body guys like Coldwarmotors (great guy; well worth a follow) you get a better understanding of the process. And so far you guys weren't far off. Given the hard hit your never going to get it right with the original sheet metal, but getting it back into the position it should have been would also be a body shops first step. You always have to thing in the reversal of the process that caused it. So putting tension on the quarter in the opposite direction it was hit in and tapping the mangled metal that was pushed forward wasn't wrong at all. Once in the location it should have been you start replacing the rear end by as you also correctly suggested drilling out the spot welds of the damaged body panels as it would have been mounted in the factory, again reversal of the process of assembly. Get all it correctly aligned, reweld a viola you have done some proper crash damage repair. Given your track record I'd be sceptical to see it get to that point but hey A for afford; well done so far👍
Do the quarter and spare wheel well might as well get it over with so theres no issues switching it over
Put a jack on inside frame rail. Use a softner of some sort and lift the quarter. May come up more
You HAVE to name this thing Terminator… you even said “the metal has a memory” 💪😎😂😂👌
You got an amazing deal on the 🔥 Tesla! I know that there's not much left of it, but well worth it for the parts that you need.
Kyle send that thing to a body shop just to be pulled on a frame machine it will probably cost you 500 bucks but they will pull it straight so you can cut out the bad metal and when you attach the new stuff it straight
I think it looks way better than before. Nicely done fellas. The car looks bran new.........ish!!!
"Ill Just Tap Around With A Hammer" Proceeds To Beat The Sh*t Out Of It. Hahaha Boosted Boiz AutoBody "Heavy In The Hand, Light On The Wallet"
you should try to get at least the whole bottom rear of the donor , preferably do the passenger side rearquarter panel still atached too it , the spotwelds should be hidden away enough behind rubber sills inside bagage compartment and behind windows that you can rattlecan the bare spots after welding everything back together with a migwelder and not have to respray the car
yes its more work but the car will be basicly back like it left the factory , seems like you be able to drill out everything without to mush throuble on the plaid after cutting away most of the damaged sheetmetal and with the donor you go the other way around and drill out from the backside
my guess is the best thing to do is readying the piece cut off the donor is doing it in the grassy spot as that whont scratch the paintwork like a concrete floor would (would still tape a lot of it off with painterstape ) less likely to dent things too
make pictures and measure between holes in the bodyworklike from the front seatbelt connection across to the other side and to a hole in the rear corner of the hatch sill , and then see if you can hit the same measurements on the plaid with the piece clamped on before final welding , probably be realy close after putting the new structural member in there and bolting it up to the rearpiece and rear quarter combo clamped around the rear doorsill
you might need to get the rear of to slide the structural piece in there anyway so you might as well do it the right way
try to save the windows of the donor , they probably be worth something to someone who had their testla broken intoo
doors probably be worth enough to get youre investment on the donor back too
please dont hack things up because youre in a hurry you got all the sheetmetal and its in the right colour to do it the right way
Props to the new camera guy, great work boosted fab
Still a dang good job for $500, ggz- Boosted Boi Body Werkz 👽👍✨
Boosted plaid here we gooooo! He is gng to do a Fuel Tech Hybrid Honda/Tesla deal. Or gng to try and add more battery's and or motors or both to be a "boosted" Plaid. Watch I am calling it now and did in the original video also thats what their top secret project is and will be. So pumped for it also
Yeah I was thinking that too 😎👍
Put a bottle jack in the truck with a piece of wood to try to bring the quarter panel up, worth a shot!
Wow, a Tesla is its own frame pulling machine. Outstanding.
You may find the rear quarters are wider on your refreshed plaid.
Yeah I said the same thing. Hopefully he realizes before he tries to make it work
Kudos to yall!! You boys did an outstanding job!
Starting in a driveway, in the "backyard" to now a big channel an big shop.. It is definitely showing
I was thinking when you were trying to pull the rear quarter up to meet the hatch that if you pull it out at the bottom of the quarter section, it should twist upward because the impact of that crash may have pushed the bottom part in causing the whole quarter to twist downward.
Go to same day title inspection in Miami (hialeah) they get you in and out in 15 min with your inspection Complete , they are not too in depth with the inspection.
Bodywork Boiz
Did I see the FRS in the background?
put a bottle jack on the inside on top of the frame and pack a bunch of rolled up jeans or something between the jack and the area around the top of the tail light to conform to its shape and then slowly jack it up into position to it matches the hatch..
You have all the parts needed, JUST DO IT! cut the back off the other one and graph it on. remove the quarter first just encase you need it, take a 4x4 board and wedge it into the tail light while the car is jacked up then slowly drop it. Drop it fast if it barely moves 👌 you have a spool gun and the areas you need to weld are hidden behind a bumper.
I don’t know Florida rules but here in Washington the inspection for re licensing a totaled car they only want receipts for parts and make sure all the vin numbers match, that’s it. I did it with a truck I totaled and didn’t even fix it and it passed.
"Dual motor" badge on the back of a Plaid. She's a sleeper now 😂😂
“She’s good” while simultaneously ripping a hole.. lmao
If you are closer to Wisconsin I would be honored to do that for you Kyle. It's kind of a good time not very busy.. you really need a frame machine.
I am a certified Tesla technician. And I am pretty certain that the quarter on the plaid is wider than the p100d.
Get a big slide hammer! You don’t need a kit because you can just fab your own brackets. Or even weld to the panel and slide hammer it
Cracked me up, when you said its like trying to put Lipstick on a Pig ahaha
Nice bit of back yard innovation a few pills and it's looking great 👍 you should be able to mix and match enough bits from both cars to get the hatch sorted 👌 great work 🤘
This is a good demonstration about how modern car bodies can hide some pretty major damage.
That subscriber is a real one! Thank you!!
Id just bring both cars up to the same place that fixed Neighbor for cleetus and let him fuse them together
Hey bud. Certified autobody mechanic of 20 years here. Aluminum likes to rip as you can see from under the latch. I know it’s content, but you have the back half of a perfectly good, burnt to the ground Tesla.
The time you’ve spent on this, you probably could have moved everything over. I’m sure your future plans, are going to effect the amount of work your doing. It’s definitely fun to watch!
Yo I’m not gonna lie that thing looks 1000 times better than before, great work y’all should call it sexy nightmare lol 😂😂😂
Well done but I thought you guys were gonna cut off the back half of the burnt Tesla and put it on the good one
Get that qauter higher before cuting save you in the long run heat will help with the glue around that rail to