Thank you sir! I got mine replaced today. It took me a couple of hours, but it was worth it doing it myself and saving the money. Plus I have the satisfaction of knowing it is done correctly. Thank you again for uploading this video!
Very HELPFUL video. Thank you! The bolt removal behind the stabilizer bar at time stamp 2:14 was omitted from the video - I think because it's a major pain to remove and would drag out the video too long. I used a 9/16" box wrench (didn't have a 14mm wrench) and a bucket load of patience to loosen it and fingers to back it out. Reverse the process to reinstall.
Fantastic video. Planning to do this job after i have parts store scan Abs module. My obd doesnt resd abs for the santa Fe. Question. I have seen afternarket parts of just the abs sensor allowing installation on to old hub. Would it be best just to replace the whole hub assembly with after market OE replacement?
Great video very descriptive with clear and concise explanation step by step! If you just wanted to replace the back sensor cap.... do you still have to take this all apart the same way you just explained or will that cap just pry off? Thanks again for your time and help!
I have a 2012 santa fe with the same issues will this video get me in the ball park with this car being a 2015 model Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I’m it a mechanic but I replaced the rotors and brake pads on my 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe. When I finished, the breaks felt great but my two ABS lights came on right after. I don’t remember touching them. Is it possible that they are still good but not connected right or do I need to replace the sensors? How much do these cost? Thanks for the informative video.
Thank you for this video. My question is, I had the C1209, C1211 for the right rear but, at the same time I also received the B1102 for low voltage on the airbag. I’ve seen others get the B1102 with the other codes. I’m not sure what to make of the low battery voltage code. Anything on this?
I’m not too sure about the low voltage on the air bag. I would repair the ABS issue and clear the codes. Sometimes weird things happen when one sensor goes bad. Can cause other codes to show up. Sorry not much more help than that.
Forgot to give you an update after I replaced the hub. Anyhow it went perfectly and surprisingly the low voltage code went away when I changed out the hub as well. Makes no sense to me but it has never returned.
Thanks for the update. One thing I didn’t mention about this repair was that before the codes showed up there was a weird kind of whistle coming from the right rear door area. It would only happen around 60 mph. I tried for several weeks to locate it but never did. The noise went away after replacing the hubs. Just did not make any sense!
I removed the 19mm bolt put of the way buy removing the arm so I could get to the 14mm , such a stupid design, now it won't line up and I can't get back in, any suggestion
Will this problem also cause the tire pressure, brake, and hill assist lights to come on as well? The ABS and traction control lights came on first??? Please see my comment and respond??? HELP!!!
Do you have to replace tge hub mounting bolts with new ones once they have been removed or us it ok to use tge old ones? Some bolts are supposed to be replaced. I'm not sure about Hyundai bolts.
great vid. did you just replaced 1 hub? and that deleted both errors? i replaced 1 on my tucson that was making a stuck noise but the noise still there after installing new shoes, (pads seems to be ok) and i got abs errors from both rear tires
I replaced both rear hubs because I had error codes coming from both sides. Was weird that both sides went out at about the same time. Before replacing the hubs the right side of the SanteFe was making a swishing sound on the right side when driving above 50 mph. I tried to figure out what was causing it, thought it was some sort of wind noise, but never could locate it. After replacing the hubs the noise went away....never dreamed the passenger side hub could’ve caused it. I didn’t replace the brake pads because they still had about 70% left. After replacing the hubs and clearing codes the problem was solved. I purchased Moog hubs from Auto Zone. Hope this information helps!
@@lizardjump995 helps a lot! Thanks! I just changed both rear brake discs from 1 side to the other and clean the Connectors all the abs codes went away but I think I can hear a small noise. Anyways I will check with a bit of speed tomorrow
Had an ABS problem with my 2007 Tucson. The whole darn ABS pump assembly is bad . They don't make them anymore, so I had to find a used one. Hyundai Dealer quoted me a price of $3,638.00 for the unit. I thought he was kidding. Went to Pick and pull and pulled one out of a Kia Sportage. for $80. It was bad. Ordered a guaranteed one from a wrecker. $300 bucks. Life sucks right now.
I know abs brakes are safe but sometimes it would be nice to just bypass them. Amazing the cost to repair or replace some those parts! Thanks for watching!
just did the rear brake pads on a 2013 and bled them. there seems to b low pressure on both calipers. i commanded the abs pump and solenoids on w the scan tool. when i hit the brakes the data pit for all four solenoids does not change from off to on. and neither does the relay....
You mentioned that you bled the brakes? Was the system leaking prior to replacing the rear pads? If it wasn’t leaking you probably didn’t need to open the system to replace the pads. That being said it sounds like there is probably still some air trapped in the system. If air is still trapped the brakes will definitely feel spongy when you depress the pedal. I would go back and bleed the system again to be sure I had all the air out. Thanks for commenting!
@@lizardjump995 thanks for responding. I’ve looked at those front hubs online but on the pictures I don’t see where to connect the wires. Am I looking at it wrong? The rear ones you can clearly see where to plug the wires but those front ones seem to be a bit tricky
That’s true but the wheel bearing was making a kind of chirping noise that as a mechanic of over 40 years I had never heard of so I replaced both hubs. Thanks for commenting.
Is there a hub back cap sensor on every wheel? How do you know witch one is bad? My sensor on my dash was on after letting it sit for a week but cleared after driving for 30 minutes?
There is an ABS sensor on each wheel. If the light is on you can scan the system to get the ABS code. Should send you in the right direction for repair. Hope this helps!
I purchased the hubs through Autozone. The hubs I purchase were Moog hubs. Here is a link to Moog to look at them. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching. moog-512326 | Rear Wheel Hub Assembly | 2007-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe
I thought about locating a sensor but decided to replace the hub. In my experience that’s better than replacing a sensor and getting something out of adjustment and still having issues with the ABS and traction light. Also, after replacing the hubs a whistling noise that I had been hearing for a while just went away. Hope this helped! Thanks for commenting!
Thank you sir! I got mine replaced today. It took me a couple of hours, but it was worth it doing it myself and saving the money. Plus I have the satisfaction of knowing it is done correctly. Thank you again for uploading this video!
Really happy to hear the video helped! Thanks for commenting!
Excellent problem description and solution. Well done!
Thanks for watching and comment is much appreciated!
Thanks for the help, I thought I had serious issue but now I feel much better knowing about this easy fix.
Really glad to hear the video helped. The repair is really not too bad to complete. Thanks for the comment!
Thank you, I got it done today, no more lights on my dash. Great video.
Really glad it was useful! Thanks for watching!
Very HELPFUL video. Thank you! The bolt removal behind the stabilizer bar at time stamp 2:14 was omitted from the video - I think because it's a major pain to remove and would drag out the video too long. I used a 9/16" box wrench (didn't have a 14mm wrench) and a bucket load of patience to loosen it and fingers to back it out. Reverse the process to reinstall.
Thank you for your comment! You’re correct that it is a real pain to remove. Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much
I have 2 2015 Hyundai Sonatas with this same problem
You’re welcome! Really glad the video helped!
great video..nice to know it can be fix properly
Really appreciate the comment and hope the video helps!
Fantastic video. Planning to do this job after i have parts store scan Abs module. My obd doesnt resd abs for the santa Fe.
Question. I have seen afternarket parts of just the abs sensor allowing installation on to old hub. Would it be best just to replace the whole hub assembly with after market OE replacement?
Nice video thanks, this is my 2nd time replacing these on my Santa Fe in less than 6years
That seems to be a common issue with them. Thanks for commenting!
Excellent explanation!
Thanks for watching!
Perfect video, it was a lot of help.
Really glad it helped….thanks for watching!
Great video very descriptive with clear and concise explanation step by step! If you just wanted to replace the back sensor cap.... do you still have to take this all apart the same way you just explained or will that cap just pry off? Thanks again for your time and help!
I’m not 100% sure but I think the cap will just pry off the hub. Hope that helps!
I have a 2012 santa fe with the same issues will this video get me in the ball park with this car being a 2015 model
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I would say it will help with your vehicle. The part #s may be different. Thanks for watching!
I’m it a mechanic but I replaced the rotors and brake pads on my 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe. When I finished, the breaks felt great but my two ABS lights came on right after. I don’t remember touching them. Is it possible that they are still good but not connected right or do I need to replace the sensors? How much do these cost? Thanks for the informative video.
Thanks for the video, good education greeting from fiji
Hope it helped! Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment!
Thank you for this video. My question is, I had the C1209, C1211 for the right rear but, at the same time I also received the B1102 for low voltage on the airbag. I’ve seen others get the B1102 with the other codes. I’m not sure what to make of the low battery voltage code. Anything on this?
I’m not too sure about the low voltage on the air bag. I would repair the ABS issue and clear the codes. Sometimes weird things happen when one sensor goes bad. Can cause other codes to show up. Sorry not much more help than that.
It’s most likely the clock spring in the steering wheel that supplies power to the airbag. I had to replace that on my Santa Fe
Forgot to give you an update after I replaced the hub. Anyhow it went perfectly and surprisingly the low voltage code went away when I changed out the hub as well. Makes no sense to me but it has never returned.
Thanks for the update. One thing I didn’t mention about this repair was that before the codes showed up there was a weird kind of whistle coming from the right rear door area. It would only happen around 60 mph. I tried for several weeks to locate it but never did. The noise went away after replacing the hubs. Just did not make any sense!
Sometimes it’s just strange how things work out with no rhyme or reason!
what tool did you use to test for the resistance of the hub?
I used an old Fluke digital ohm meter but any ohm meter will work I just prefer digital. Thanks for commenting!
I removed the 19mm bolt put of the way buy removing the arm so I could get to the 14mm , such a stupid design, now it won't line up and I can't get back in, any suggestion
Will this problem also cause the tire pressure, brake, and hill assist lights to come on as well? The ABS and traction control lights came on first??? Please see my comment and respond??? HELP!!!
Sorry I haven’t responded sooner….. this will absolutely cause these lights to illuminate.
Can you just replace the sensor instead of the complete hub?
I would recommend replacing the whole assembly.
Do you have to replace tge hub mounting bolts with new ones once they have been removed or us it ok to use tge old ones? Some bolts are supposed to be replaced. I'm not sure about Hyundai bolts.
You can reuse the old bolts as long as the threads are in good condition. Thanks for the comment!
Where you get the hub ??
I purchased the hub assembly from Auto Zone. Moog was the brand name.
great vid. did you just replaced 1 hub? and that deleted both errors? i replaced 1 on my tucson that was making a stuck noise but the noise still there after installing new shoes, (pads seems to be ok) and i got abs errors from both rear tires
I replaced both rear hubs because I had error codes coming from both sides. Was weird that both sides went out at about the same time. Before replacing the hubs the right side of the SanteFe was making a swishing sound on the right side when driving above 50 mph. I tried to figure out what was causing it, thought it was some sort of wind noise, but never could locate it. After replacing the hubs the noise went away....never dreamed the passenger side hub could’ve caused it. I didn’t replace the brake pads because they still had about 70% left. After replacing the hubs and clearing codes the problem was solved. I purchased Moog hubs from Auto Zone. Hope this information helps!
@@lizardjump995 helps a lot! Thanks! I just changed both rear brake discs from 1 side to the other and clean the Connectors all the abs codes went away but I think I can hear a small noise. Anyways I will check with a bit of speed tomorrow
Had an ABS problem with my 2007 Tucson. The whole darn ABS pump assembly is bad . They don't make them anymore, so I had to find a used one. Hyundai Dealer quoted me a price of $3,638.00 for the unit. I thought he was kidding. Went to Pick and pull and pulled one out of a Kia Sportage. for $80. It was bad. Ordered a guaranteed one from a wrecker. $300 bucks. Life sucks right now.
I know abs brakes are safe but sometimes it would be nice to just bypass them. Amazing the cost to repair or replace some those parts! Thanks for watching!
Exellent!!
Thanks for the comment!
just did the rear brake pads on a 2013 and bled them. there seems to b low pressure on both calipers. i commanded the abs pump and solenoids on w the scan tool. when i hit the brakes the data pit for all four solenoids does not change from off to on. and neither does the relay....
You mentioned that you bled the brakes? Was the system leaking prior to replacing the rear pads? If it wasn’t leaking you probably didn’t need to open the system to replace the pads. That being said it sounds like there is probably still some air trapped in the system. If air is still trapped the brakes will definitely feel spongy when you depress the pedal. I would go back and bleed the system again to be sure I had all the air out. Thanks for commenting!
On the rotor there's 2 screws to hold it on but what's the other bolt on the side of the rotor?
Not sure which bolt you are referring to. If you can take a picture of it I can more readily describe it. Thanks!
Thank u sir
Thanks for watching!
Do front wheels also have these sensors on the hub?
There are sensors on the front wheels also. Thanks for watching!
@@lizardjump995 thanks for responding. I’ve looked at those front hubs online but on the pictures I don’t see where to connect the wires. Am I looking at it wrong? The rear ones you can clearly see where to plug the wires but those front ones seem to be a bit tricky
You should of replace the hub back cap sensor only they sell them at dealership for $35
That’s true but the wheel bearing was making a kind of chirping noise that as a mechanic of over 40 years I had never heard of so I replaced both hubs. Thanks for commenting.
Is there a hub back cap sensor on every wheel? How do you know witch one is bad? My sensor on my dash was on after letting it sit for a week but cleared after driving for 30 minutes?
There is an ABS sensor on each wheel. If the light is on you can scan the system to get the ABS code. Should send you in the right direction for repair. Hope this helps!
Hey Ryan how do you do this without taking it all apart or is that still needed just replace the cap and not the whole hub correct? Thanks
@@nathanadams3650 you need the special service tool from Hyundai or you can’t do it I have one since I’m a dealer technician at Hyundai in Houston
Where did you bought the hub? It was original or what kind?
I purchased the hubs through Autozone. The hubs I purchase were Moog hubs. Here is a link to Moog to look at them. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
moog-512326 | Rear Wheel Hub Assembly | 2007-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe
Awesome! Thanks
You’re welcome!
You can’t just replace the sensor because my hub bearing is good
I thought about locating a sensor but decided to replace the hub. In my experience that’s better than replacing a sensor and getting something out of adjustment and still having issues with the ABS and traction light. Also, after replacing the hubs a whistling noise that I had been hearing for a while just went away. Hope this helped! Thanks for commenting!