Hi Claire! I’m on a fragrance binge at the moment and I was wondering if you can share your thoughts on 31 rue Cambon and if there are any similarities to Belle Âme. I know you have both and I just ordered Belle Âme. I love it! I’m trying to decide whether to purchase 31 rue Cambon or Beige next. First world problems. Thank you!
😂😂 first world problems indeed! Honestly they’re like night and day. Belle Ame is night because it’s darker, richer, a little bit smokey with that tonka resin, where 31RC is sunny yellow, the ylang is very present and along with that rounded citrus opening it’s very bright, any amber type notes are very light and don’t come along for a long while just add a hint of a sticky base but it’s definitely also a chypre. Belle Ame feels more amber to me. Both have fabulous iris but really that’s the only thing in common. It’s quite possible to love one and not the other. I happily love both but find Belle Ame is purely a cold weather choice for me. 31RC I’d choose year round.
Thank you so much for your help Claire! Yes, they are truly two fragrances with lovely iris notes. I’m glad to find out that they are really not similar other than the iris. Have a wonderful weekend!
Oh, 31 Rue Cambon is also my fav Les Exclusive and one of my favourite perfume overall! I bought it a couple of years ago, before the price hike 😊 I also got the EDT for a very affordable price and it's great, but not different enough to hunt imo.
@@SmurfygurlyAbsolutely perfect for a bday dinner and I even got told I smell nice. And as a further bonus, I managed to have a great night without any alcohol. I was worried but turned out I was worried about nothing 😊
Sorry I missed you live again Claire. Apparently Paddock may get a wider release according to Sebastian. Love 31 Rue Cambon. I'm going to a Comète launch event on 11 May. Exciting!
Sounds like beautiful, classy perfumes. That is really great that you get 12 hours plus on Rue Cambon! The exclusifs sometimes can be a bit fleeting. ⚜️⭐️🌟
Thank you for this in-depth review. Would love to know how gardenia from the Les Exclusives line wears. I heard it’s more of a skin scent and doesn’t last long. I’m curious to know your experience with it.
I am a chypre girl and all us older "perfumistas" were very upset when the regulations to no longer allow oak moss went into effect; devastating! I bought the first iteration of 31 Rue Cambon and mine is edt formulation and I still have some juice from my original bottle. I have so many perfumes at this point that I can't finish them all. 31 Rue Cambon was one of the first true modern chypres to come out and it contains no oak moss. I wouldn't describe oak moss as green, but more inky and mossy/musty and rich. I think this is why chypre as a genre of styles today is no longer made and if they are, simply can't compare to what used to be made prior to IFRA restrictions. I guess the younger generations taste is much different as well, but I think it's so sad. You can really smell oak moss in Mitsouko, even the current formulation. Guerlain did a good job preserving this perfume despite the regulations using what newer ingredients are available, I think. I agree, 31 Rue Cambon is elegant and beautiful! Thank you, Julia
I think oak moss is allowed but very restricted, I remember a variation came out where chemists were able to remove the allergens and Aqua Di Parma used that in Quercia. I may not have described it well but I recognise it as it’s in dry downs of The Lovers Tale by FB and Tobacco Rose and Hera by Papillon albeit in a smaller amount than those. Of course it could just be a material that gives an oakmoss effect. Have Chanel confirmed there is definitely no oakmoss? I’d love to learn more!
Hi Julia, sorry to jump in, but I love chypres too, and let me reassure you, there are quite a perfumes which still contain real oakmoss and do smell of it. Not only Mitsouko. I have been looking for that deep emerald moss effect you mentioned, and I managed to find it in .... modern Aromatics Elixir. More than anywhere else. But there are more still available today, I am talking of the current versions, not vintages: Papillon Tobacco Rose (here, oakmoss is mixed with mineralic feel of ambergris, if you love this effect, it's fabulous, mixed with that tea rose!) Miss Dior edt Originale (the yellow juice, not pink!! It's still very green in the opening, galbanum and moss slaps you in the face, and slowly it unravels into a lush white bouquet, musky and nostalgic. Hermes Eau d'Hermes (long tall bottle) this is spicy, if you love cumin, you're like me, laughing, as this one is such a warm and beautiful spicy chypre with many facets and oakmossy base. And if you enjoy something a little dirtier (or a lot dirtier, haha), with a nice dose of leather, tobacco, hay and carnation - look no further, than Papillon Salome. Aaaand, if you want something lighter in character, there is Chant d'Aromes, which smells so close to vintage Ma Griffe, that I feel I want it just for that! All the perfumes mentioned above do contain oakmoss in their ingredient lists. There are few which are still quite mossy, but do not contain the real oakmoss: Bandit Piguet (2023 version) is dark green, muted, not sharp. And Chanel Coromandel - which makes me think of Jai Ose Guy Laroche with its silvered patchouli and moss impression! Sorry to bombard you with all the above. I love oakmoss and have been on the lookout for last couple of years!face-blue-smiling
@@Smurfygurly Hello, yes, that's my understanding as well, that is is very restricted, even tree moss is. I trust Victoria of Bois de Jasmine. She is a trained professional perfumer and she confirmed this in a blog post years ago. I think at the time this perfume was made, there were no other similar chemicals available and as you say, they could have used a small amount, but the buzz at the time was that it was a chypre, in a modern style that used none of it. Revisiting it now, it sure smells like a classic chypre though on my skin not very long lasting. like on yours. Maybe the new EDP is something I need to try. Is it possible the EDP has moss or a newer aroma chemical where as the original EDT doesn't? That's an interesting thought? If you can smell it in your EDP, then I agree with you, perhaps they are not saying, or they revised successive batches? Investigation needed! lol. oxJulia
@@tubereuse_criminelle Hi there! Yes, I do know it is still in use, especially in niche. Rogue Parfums is one small perfumer I know states they are not IFRA compliant and there are more. I was speaking of how it was back in time when the discontinuations were new and we were very upset with what was being done to our beloved chypres. This is before Fragcom and youtube mind you! I have not smelled the modern Aromatic Elixir. Years ago I did, but not sure which formulation. I own and have smelled many Papillions, omg, wonderful house, but not that one, so thank you so much for the suggestion. I do love cumin and I do love skank! I am 63 and grew up in that era where perfumes were big, loud and unapologetic, or were available in extrait form to dab on for evening and a bit more subdued. My Mothers signature perfume was Miss Dior and I can't take the reformulations that in my own opinion completely destroyed a beautiful chypre, so I will pass on that one. I own lots of vintage Ma Griffe in several forms and LOVE it. I can smell the difference between oak moss, Evernia Prunastri and tree moss, Pseudevernia Furfuracea because I noticed at the time moss was restricted, my beloved Halston (the original one) had switched oak moss for tree moss on the list of ingredients on the box. That was really interesting because I wondered what all the fuss was about and I could totally smell how the tree moss was inferior to oak moss; yes, it gives a similar effect, but it's not the same to my nose. I also think the entire situation was based on flawed testing and BS honestly. The rest of the great selection of perfumes you note I have only smelled in vintage and I own a few of them.:o). Thank you so much for sharing your perspective and suggestions! I love perfume so much! oxJulia
Hi Claire! I’m on a fragrance binge at the moment and I was wondering if you can share your thoughts on 31 rue Cambon and if there are any similarities to Belle Âme. I know you have both and I just ordered Belle Âme. I love it! I’m trying to decide whether to purchase 31 rue Cambon or Beige next. First world problems. Thank you!
😂😂 first world problems indeed! Honestly they’re like night and day. Belle Ame is night because it’s darker, richer, a little bit smokey with that tonka resin, where 31RC is sunny yellow, the ylang is very present and along with that rounded citrus opening it’s very bright, any amber type notes are very light and don’t come along for a long while just add a hint of a sticky base but it’s definitely also a chypre. Belle Ame feels more amber to me. Both have fabulous iris but really that’s the only thing in common. It’s quite possible to love one and not the other. I happily love both but find Belle Ame is purely a cold weather choice for me. 31RC I’d choose year round.
Thank you so much for your help Claire! Yes, they are truly two fragrances with lovely iris notes. I’m glad to find out that they are really not similar other than the iris. Have a wonderful weekend!
31 Rue Cambon is my favorite of the Exclusifs, but I love Le Lion as well.
Oh, 31 Rue Cambon is also my fav Les Exclusive and one of my favourite perfume overall! I bought it a couple of years ago, before the price hike 😊 I also got the EDT for a very affordable price and it's great, but not different enough to hunt imo.
Bought 31 Rue Cambon yesterday. Wore it last night to a friend’s birthday dinner. Love it 🎉
🥳 congratulations 🙌 ooh isn’t it beautiful! Perfect for a party.
@@SmurfygurlyAbsolutely perfect for a bday dinner and I even got told I smell nice. And as a further bonus, I managed to have a great night without any alcohol. I was worried but turned out I was worried about nothing 😊
Catching up on videos and thoroughly enjoying the chanel exclusifs
Thanks Elaine they are a really nice classic line of perfume.
Sorry I missed you live again Claire. Apparently Paddock may get a wider release according to Sebastian. Love 31 Rue Cambon. I'm going to a Comète launch event on 11 May. Exciting!
Ooh how fun Tim! I’m hoping it’ll be at duty free tomorrow when I head off to Cyprus but I know it’s unlikely.
Sounds like beautiful, classy perfumes. That is really great that you get 12 hours plus on Rue Cambon! The exclusifs sometimes can be a bit fleeting. ⚜️⭐️🌟
Yes they really vary in performance! Must be properly tested first for sure.
I love the New Comete from that collection!!
I’m desperate to try it!
Comete is stunning 😍
Love and own both of these. Rue is top tier!!!
Thank you for this in-depth review. Would love to know how gardenia from the Les Exclusives line wears. I heard it’s more of a skin scent and doesn’t last long. I’m curious to know your experience with it.
Thank you, I’ll review it next with Beige.
@@Smurfygurlyawesome! Thank you.
I know I've smelled 1932 but can't remember it. I just remember it being not that strong. Appreciate the review!
I was like that Jim, I smelled it several times in shops but couldn’t really remember. Having a decant is so helpful in truly testing a perfume.
31 Rue Cambon is a fav of mine. Makes me feel elegant.❤️
Yes elegant is the word! 💖
these 2 are my all time fav fragrance 🙈🙈 they are very similarly aristocratic
Yes that’s a great word to describe them!
I have Boy. That's the only one of the Les Exclusives I have.
I am a chypre girl and all us older "perfumistas" were very upset when the regulations to no longer allow oak moss went into effect; devastating! I bought the first iteration of 31 Rue Cambon and mine is edt formulation and I still have some juice from my original bottle. I have so many perfumes at this point that I can't finish them all. 31 Rue Cambon was one of the first true modern chypres to come out and it contains no oak moss. I wouldn't describe oak moss as green, but more inky and mossy/musty and rich. I think this is why chypre as a genre of styles today is no longer made and if they are, simply can't compare to what used to be made prior to IFRA restrictions. I guess the younger generations taste is much different as well, but I think it's so sad. You can really smell oak moss in Mitsouko, even the current formulation. Guerlain did a good job preserving this perfume despite the regulations using what newer ingredients are available, I think. I agree, 31 Rue Cambon is elegant and beautiful! Thank you, Julia
I think oak moss is allowed but very restricted, I remember a variation came out where chemists were able to remove the allergens and Aqua Di Parma used that in Quercia. I may not have described it well but I recognise it as it’s in dry downs of The Lovers Tale by FB and Tobacco Rose and Hera by Papillon albeit in a smaller amount than those. Of course it could just be a material that gives an oakmoss effect. Have Chanel confirmed there is definitely no oakmoss? I’d love to learn more!
Hi Julia, sorry to jump in, but I love chypres too, and let me reassure you, there are quite a perfumes which still contain real oakmoss and do smell of it. Not only Mitsouko. I have been looking for that deep emerald moss effect you mentioned, and I managed to find it in .... modern Aromatics Elixir. More than anywhere else. But there are more still available today, I am talking of the current versions, not vintages: Papillon Tobacco Rose (here, oakmoss is mixed with mineralic feel of ambergris, if you love this effect, it's fabulous, mixed with that tea rose!) Miss Dior edt Originale (the yellow juice, not pink!! It's still very green in the opening, galbanum and moss slaps you in the face, and slowly it unravels into a lush white bouquet, musky and nostalgic. Hermes Eau d'Hermes (long tall bottle) this is spicy, if you love cumin, you're like me, laughing, as this one is such a warm and beautiful spicy chypre with many facets and oakmossy base. And if you enjoy something a little dirtier (or a lot dirtier, haha), with a nice dose of leather, tobacco, hay and carnation - look no further, than Papillon Salome. Aaaand, if you want something lighter in character, there is Chant d'Aromes, which smells so close to vintage Ma Griffe, that I feel I want it just for that! All the perfumes mentioned above do contain oakmoss in their ingredient lists. There are few which are still quite mossy, but do not contain the real oakmoss: Bandit Piguet (2023 version) is dark green, muted, not sharp. And Chanel Coromandel - which makes me think of Jai Ose Guy Laroche with its silvered patchouli and moss impression! Sorry to bombard you with all the above. I love oakmoss and have been on the lookout for last couple of years!face-blue-smiling
@@Smurfygurly Hello, yes, that's my understanding as well, that is is very restricted, even tree moss is. I trust Victoria of Bois de Jasmine. She is a trained professional perfumer and she confirmed this in a blog post years ago. I think at the time this perfume was made, there were no other similar chemicals available and as you say, they could have used a small amount, but the buzz at the time was that it was a chypre, in a modern style that used none of it. Revisiting it now, it sure smells like a classic chypre though on my skin not very long lasting. like on yours. Maybe the new EDP is something I need to try. Is it possible the EDP has moss or a newer aroma chemical where as the original EDT doesn't? That's an interesting thought? If you can smell it in your EDP, then I agree with you, perhaps they are not saying, or they revised successive batches? Investigation needed! lol. oxJulia
@@tubereuse_criminelle Hi there! Yes, I do know it is still in use, especially in niche. Rogue Parfums is one small perfumer I know states they are not IFRA compliant and there are more. I was speaking of how it was back in time when the discontinuations were new and we were very upset with what was being done to our beloved chypres. This is before Fragcom and youtube mind you! I have not smelled the modern Aromatic Elixir. Years ago I did, but not sure which formulation. I own and have smelled many Papillions, omg, wonderful house, but not that one, so thank you so much for the suggestion. I do love cumin and I do love skank! I am 63 and grew up in that era where perfumes were big, loud and unapologetic, or were available in extrait form to dab on for evening and a bit more subdued. My Mothers signature perfume was Miss Dior and I can't take the reformulations that in my own opinion completely destroyed a beautiful chypre, so I will pass on that one. I own lots of vintage Ma Griffe in several forms and LOVE it. I can smell the difference between oak moss, Evernia Prunastri and tree moss, Pseudevernia Furfuracea because I noticed at the time moss was restricted, my beloved Halston (the original one) had switched oak moss for tree moss on the list of ingredients on the box. That was really interesting because I wondered what all the fuss was about and I could totally smell how the tree moss was inferior to oak moss; yes, it gives a similar effect, but it's not the same to my nose. I also think the entire situation was based on flawed testing and BS honestly. The rest of the great selection of perfumes you note I have only smelled in vintage and I own a few of them.:o). Thank you so much for sharing your perspective and suggestions! I love perfume so much! oxJulia
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