Gotta love the internet bringing 2 stroke brothers together in one place tearem up brothers show us all the ensuing damage!!! Let the hellraising begin!!! Atb Russ.
@@georgegrimm4952 Agreed. There would be a tiny cooling and friction disadvantage but it would get rid of the porosity issue. If a single max run on the dyno is the end goal, plate it. If it is to last a while, sleeve it.
Nice going! I really love the way you guys work together to achieve a goal. People were put on Earth not to exploit, but to help each other. Keep it up and all the best! 👍
Its always a good idea to think about machining operations when making a pattern. A small amount of material in the right place to allow machining for gripping in a vice etc is invaluable. Pays huge dividends in prototype work. For example a bit of extra material around where you had to pack with your strips. A quick mill before lathe work makes other ops easy. When a component needs setting up again, this is super easy. The added bonus is a more confident, firm and distortion free setup right from the start.
Good "stuffing" Shame about that porosity revealing itself after all the work machining it. The casting process is still a work in progress for Alex though and it's no easy thing to master.
Yeah that was a bit of a bummer! But it should still be usable. With a bit of luck the holes might get filled during plating, otherwise I've made the executive decision that they're a feature and called oil retaining holes ;) For the next one I'm going to start with machining some unimportant surface and give it a blast to check before I put in all the work though.
@@Hollaendaren You could insert a steel sleeve, would be more than a repair, but a upgrade. Steel is the much better/stronger material for a cylinder wall. Especially if you want to build the worlds strongest cylinder... (or cast it completely from steel next time...)
@@Chris-yy7qc I'm not sure where you're getting this idea that steel would be better but a sleeve would be a downgrade from a nikasil coating.. Yes steel is a stronger material than aluminum but that has nothing to do with performance. Nikasil has better heat transfer, less friction, lasts longer, can run tighter clearances than a sleeved (or pure iron) cylinder. The only real downsides I can think of are cost and repairs if needed, if you do damage the coating you have to replate the entire bore vs just giving it a quick hone or boring to the next size. But just forget about steel being better for performance. There's a reason pretty much all performance cylinders are aluminum with nikasil ;)
@@Hollaendaren But as one of those bores is junk anyway you could knock up a steel sleeve for it just to prove Alex's thoery will work and he can then get some base figures for tuning etc.
Just a stupid suggestion, those inclusions can be reduced by using a iron liner at the position where you pour. When the molten metal first comes in contact with the mold it can erode the surface taking the mold material in with it into the casting. Damm shame that one came out well.
That's exactly what I suggested for the next casting, glad to hear that it might actually work too :) That would make setup in the lathe a lot easier. Although I think the biggest problem was the roughness of the 3d printed model even before casting. The 2nd cylinder had a really rough bore, impossible to indicate on, so I think the mold had eroded in some spots on that one.
@@Hollaendaren It is a standard practice in a jobbing cast shop. The very best tool steel dies well sorted will leave 1~1.5 mm for machining. In a sand mold 3mm is cutting it pretty close we use 5 mm for one off stuff like you are doing. But your electroplater *should* be able to fill those holes with copper then put the hard face on there for the bore.
great work. i was watching a video from kevin cameron and he said british engineers would inject the molds from the bottom up to prevent air pockets or porosity in casting motorcycle cylinders and cases.
Nice work fella. Just remember that a micrometer loses accuracy when heat from the headstock of the leather gets a chance to transfer into the measuring instrument itself. Good day. Thanks and peace too.
I was wondering about that myself. It seemed a little wide to me. But I though. HEY, what the fuck do I know? Well certainly nothing close to Alex anyway regarding two strokes. I'm so glad he's back on this project. TH-cam had fucking unsubbed me from Alex's TwoStrokeStuffing channel. I thought he was just having a rest or sabbatical.
Awesome project.... creating power out of thin air, I will look for the finished product... Now for the music.... I hated it at first, but now its playing in my head... Im worried. I had that problem with my castings, but degassing helped a lot
Go for it, it's great fun and a very handy skill to have. I learned by doing and watching TH-cam videos, I'm not exactly an expert, learning new stuff all the time :)
I don´t think most people realize the intricate procedures of tuning a twostroke engine. When it comes to fourstroke you just slap a turbo or a compressor on it and you can immediately gain 20-50% horsepower with not to much of a hassle. Two stroke tuning is all about the small details and precision. Flow dynamics and timing is everything. Nice job. Better luck with the next casting though. At least I would not waste nikasil on those. God knows where there could be porosity ready to crack at any time. Perhaps heat shrinking a sleeve inside the bore?
Just found your channel, nice work!! Please finish the 4 cylinder I'm dying to see it... I've been dreaming of an engine like that for a long time but using cr500 barrels to make a 2 litre... oh yeah, then fit it to a small car... ooooohhh yeah!!!! Anyway, i just want to hear it run...
Thank you! The 4 cylinder project kind of ended up on the back burner because I realised it probably wasn't going to be finished this winter, but continuing soon!
Hey! I see you are using the same shape inserts as I do for steel (CCMT universal geometry). But I also have CCGT that have geometry for aluminium - much sharper angle. Give them a try, chinese grade works fine - it's like night and day when working on aluminium compared to CCMT. The cut really smooth and you get a real proffesional looking mirror finish.
Hi Nice job, you should try CCGT inserts made for turning alu, I remember way back in my youth that Kreidler tuning cylinders had small recesses (maby d=0,25mm and t= 0,10mm) with regular intervals in the Nicasil plating.
How do you think the piston (ring) will be able to pass the exhaust port? The port is half a cylinder wide, and for now, I am pretty sure the spring will jump into the port. Tell me?
Damn neat to cast a cylinder or two! I would think a shrunk in alloy liner would not only make the 'scrap' cylinder usable but would be easier to change port timing and clean up/re-shape transfers if needed? Doesn't the bore need to be 0.25~0.50 larger to allow for the plating build up?
Yeah, the scrap cylinder could probably be made usable somehow but there's probably going to be more than one iteration of this cylinder so probably not worth the extra effort it would take. I'm really not sure how much the plating will add but I was told around 0.05 mm and to just make it 40.0, it'll be honed before plating and the piston will be made to size after he sees what the final bore ends up at. If it turns out to be too small we'll know for the next one :)
@@Hollaendaren I'll have to get back on his site and take a look at what he's doing now. It would actually be easier to shrink fit a tube into barrel so you have a known material composition. Heat transfer won't be quite as good as witha one piece design but will still be far better than a cast iron sleeve . I forget who is doing alloy plated liners but one of the 'production' 600cc bikes is doing it using dry liners. If it's good enough for a 140?bhp race bike I'm sure it would be fine for a sub 15hp motor
@@peterjones6945 the goal for this motor is at least 24 HP :) for 15 HP you can buy off the shelf cylinders and don't need to cast your own ;) but yeah, I do get your point. Fitting a tube would bring a lot of extra work though because it needs to be ported, you get most of that for free with a cast cylinder. But definitely something to consider I think if this doesn't work out.
@@Hollaendaren Yeah, you'll need a dividing head with tail-stock centre to machine a tube. Machining cylinder would just be a case of making it about 8mm~10mm larger in the bore, heating to about 250c and dropping tube in. The hardest part is making sure everything is aligned properly but if I was only doing a specific type of cylinder I would probably make a fixture. It's a common, simple process on motorcycle engines using cast iron .sleves, I've done a lot of them. Extruded aluminium would probably need much thicker wall but would also have a much better surface finish
Yeah that was a bit of a shame. But it should at least run even with the pitting, and depending on the ring thickness maybe won't even effect performance, I think the pits are small enough to not cause any blow by past the ring. But it'd look a lot nicer without the pits :)
@@Hollaendaren . Yeah we're all with you. I reckon Alex should bolt it all up , run it some heat cycles / run it in and do some dyno run/s. Proof of concept. The design is so radical that in my opinion it could give a noticeable hp rise; that the pitting will only detract from minimally if at-all. As you wrote. Paul . Yeah go for it Alex !!
@@pauloconnor7951 exactly :) there's so much stuff that still needs to be proven, I think the pits are not in the way of anything. Once the concept is proven to work it'd be nice to have one without pits though. But I'm sure there's going to be be more than one iteration of this cylinder so probably have plenty of chances to get it right :)
It would be impossible to machine the transfer ducts and water passages because there's no way to reach them with a milling machine. But a modular billet cylinder would work :) that's something that is on my bucket list, just need to get a dozen or so other projects out of the way first ;)
super fin video .... et lille tricks. prøv at bruge sprit (ethanol) som smøre middel til aluminum. virker meget bedre end olie især ved gevind skæring og savning. (båndsav og rundsav
I think he went overboard on the oval exhaust, it might have too much surface area and pull heat out affecting the scavenging and rebound pulse performance. I did read that ktm is using oval header pipes because they maintain better, smoother flow around bends though. Maybe that's the reason?
Really not sure myself, I don't know anything about casting. But I think Alex has some ideas what went wrong, so just refine his technique a bit and sooner or later it'll be perfect :)
he mcould bore the one with the fault further and have a cast iron bushing inserted in it , if he uses a pistom with a chrome ring it should act close to the same , dies taka some doing to get the ports in and line everything up before pressing the bushing in a hone it to size
Yeah it definitely could be made usable one way or another. But we were already kind of counting on that first one not being usable, I just asked he send it over too so I had one to experiment on, and if it did turn out to be usable that'd have been a bonus.
Hell again. The relocation of Piston Pin. please keep in mind im no expert just a Garage fella. I took a small file ground both sides smooth and thickness of file a couple thou smaller than Piston Ring Groove. Then I used edge of file to file away the old Pin. For the new Pin 3 ideas, One drill hole .010 smaller than a expanding roll pin. 2. drill through the top of the piston into the desired ring locate pin position, then drill ream undersized press new pin in and use TIG small tig weld on top pin, now never come out, 3. Yah another one sorry,,when re drill for pin use drill and tap small thread and screw in small bolt then cut off and clear ,I hope maybe give idea. Thank-you I enjoy much you're Videos. I am also 2 stroke Fiddler.
Maybe Alex should have you machine a chromium sleeve and press it in, because we all know that the plating isn't going to fill those pits....just a thought, good luck and keep'em comin!
Nope, I completely forgot about that. But he hadn't planned for me to do them anyway so I guess it's ok :) he'll glue a plate over it so finish isn't really important, just needs a bit more jb weld maybe :)
Nice machining job but alas a total waste of time. The castings are no good, too many imperfections on the bore and welding them all up would distort the casting too much. Take an x-ray or ultra sound of the barrel and you will find it is like swiss cheese through out.
So I was listening to your accent and it felt familiar. Then I looked through your content and remembered a Dutch/swedish (?) Dude that messed around with snowscooters and puchs on the Dutch PuchForum. Is that you? Great video btw, pretty cool to see a casting go to a full cilinder!
Ha! Yeah that sounds like it's me :) Haven't done much with my Puchs lately though. I guess the closest is the minibike that I built 2 years ago, it has a bunch of Magnum X parts.
Great work! I just can't thank you enough for this!
You're very welcome :) I'm just glad I can help out.
Gotta love the internet bringing 2 stroke brothers together in one place tearem up brothers show us all the ensuing damage!!! Let the hellraising begin!!! Atb Russ.
I thought this was one of his videos and wondered why he sounded different 😂
Why not sleeve it?
@@georgegrimm4952 Agreed. There would be a tiny cooling and friction disadvantage but it would get rid of the porosity issue. If a single max run on the dyno is the end goal, plate it. If it is to last a while, sleeve it.
I’m really glad you guys are working together on this most powerful 2stroke. Just mint boys. Thanks for sharing
what r u meaning by "most powerful 2stroke"?
Daniel Satko go to 2strokestuffing channel
@@frankierutherford1888 i see that channel, but this motor is way off the real most powerfull 2 stroke
Daniel Satko it’s making around 500hp per litre...
@@rabbishekelstein9477 dude stop sniffing that shit. Turbo hayabusa makes 300hp, 500hp makes drag turbo hayabusa
TOTAL ART .... two strokes for ever ........
Thanks!
super excited when this will be done
So am I! :)
Nice going! I really love the way you guys work together to achieve a goal. People were put on Earth not to exploit, but to help each other. Keep it up and all the best! 👍
Thanks! I'm just glad I can help out in this cool project :)
You have now officially partipated to the coolest project on youtube, congrats!
You should check out some of his other videos... "One of the coolest" is much more apt! ;-)
Very nicely done, looks awsome!
Thank you!
Finally some more quality content!
Thanks!
Awesome to see this side of the project and glad to see another video from you.
Love it, I was really hoping we would get to see this part of the process as well
I felt it was my duty to film the whole process ;)
Awesome stuff dude,,
Can't wait to see this cylinder fitted & running..
That exhaust port pattern looks pretty radical ...👍
Thanks! I can't wait either :)
That exhaust port is GINORMOUS!
Thank you for your skills. I've been watching this with excitement.
Thanks!
Wonderful vid...I visited your channel before...thank you for helping Alex ...you are great machiest and great equipment....👍
Its always a good idea to think about machining operations when making a pattern. A small amount of material in the right place to allow machining for gripping in a vice etc is invaluable. Pays huge dividends in prototype work. For example a bit of extra material around where you had to pack with your strips. A quick mill before lathe work makes other ops easy. When a component needs setting up again, this is super easy. The added bonus is a more confident, firm and distortion free setup right from the start.
This man deserves more views and subs! Glad your back!
Great work brother. Can't wait to see it run.
Watching you doing the work was really awesome 😁
This is awesome. Great work 👍
Wow. You do incredible work. Great job.
great job... looks like a casting fault huh?
cant he have them bored out and sleeves put in?
hope things work out..
Wow, great work!
Thank you!
Awesome video, I'll have to check out the rest of your channel dude!
Great jobb! 👍
Great Video!
Thank you!
nice work
Thanks :)
Awesome work man!
Good "stuffing"
Shame about that porosity revealing itself after all the work machining it.
The casting process is still a work in progress for Alex though and it's no easy thing to master.
Yeah that was a bit of a bummer! But it should still be usable. With a bit of luck the holes might get filled during plating, otherwise I've made the executive decision that they're a feature and called oil retaining holes ;)
For the next one I'm going to start with machining some unimportant surface and give it a blast to check before I put in all the work though.
@@Hollaendaren
Yes a bit of a pre blast to test it out would be a good idea.
@@Hollaendaren You could insert a steel sleeve, would be more than a repair, but a upgrade. Steel is the much better/stronger material for a cylinder wall. Especially if you want to build the worlds strongest cylinder... (or cast it completely from steel next time...)
@@Chris-yy7qc I'm not sure where you're getting this idea that steel would be better but a sleeve would be a downgrade from a nikasil coating.. Yes steel is a stronger material than aluminum but that has nothing to do with performance. Nikasil has better heat transfer, less friction, lasts longer, can run tighter clearances than a sleeved (or pure iron) cylinder. The only real downsides I can think of are cost and repairs if needed, if you do damage the coating you have to replate the entire bore vs just giving it a quick hone or boring to the next size. But just forget about steel being better for performance. There's a reason pretty much all performance cylinders are aluminum with nikasil ;)
@@Hollaendaren But as one of those bores is junk anyway you could knock up a steel sleeve for it just to prove Alex's thoery will work and he can then get some base figures for tuning etc.
Just a stupid suggestion, those inclusions can be reduced by using a iron liner at the position where you pour. When the molten metal first comes in contact with the mold it can erode the surface taking the mold material in with it into the casting.
Damm shame that one came out well.
That's exactly what I suggested for the next casting, glad to hear that it might actually work too :) That would make setup in the lathe a lot easier. Although I think the biggest problem was the roughness of the 3d printed model even before casting. The 2nd cylinder had a really rough bore, impossible to indicate on, so I think the mold had eroded in some spots on that one.
@@Hollaendaren It is a standard practice in a jobbing cast shop. The very best tool steel dies well sorted will leave 1~1.5 mm for machining. In a sand mold 3mm is cutting it pretty close we use 5 mm for one off stuff like you are doing. But your electroplater *should* be able to fill those holes with copper then put the hard face on there for the bore.
Wow, awesome 👍👍
Thanks!
great work. i was watching a video from kevin cameron and he said british engineers would inject the molds from the bottom up to prevent air pockets or porosity in casting motorcycle cylinders and cases.
Perfect Work!!!!! Greetings from Germany
Lekker bezig daar buurman!
thanks for uploading this
I’m glad I found this channel, love that music 🎶 to!!!
Nice work fella. Just remember that a micrometer loses accuracy when heat from the headstock of the leather gets a chance to transfer into the measuring instrument itself. Good day. Thanks and peace too.
Hope to see the plating process
Alex already uploaded the first plating related video: th-cam.com/video/Esadm0VOt3A/w-d-xo.html
Quality work you do. 1st time here might just hang around and learn some stuff cheers mate.
fantastic stuff! great work, love to follow this project
Nice tools
For the second one even if there is damage in the bore you can still high temperature epoxy a sleeve inside, so it's probably not a loss anyway.
Awesome video! I really enjoyed it:)
Thank you :)
I can't wait for ignition! I'm worried the rings will catch on that super wide exhaust port.
I was wondering about that myself. It seemed a little wide to me. But I though. HEY, what the fuck do I know? Well certainly nothing close to Alex anyway regarding two strokes.
I'm so glad he's back on this project. TH-cam had fucking unsubbed me from Alex's TwoStrokeStuffing channel. I thought he was just having a rest or sabbatical.
Yeah, that exh.port is huuuge.bigger span than Russia reaching across Europe, to Asia !
Awesome project.... creating power out of thin air, I will look for the finished product... Now for the music.... I hated it at first, but now its playing in my head... Im worried.
I had that problem with my castings, but degassing helped a lot
Mooie video ,netjes gedaan man!!
Great vid
Nice job.. Great skills
I see you are wearing your "This Old Tony" T-Shirt. I have one, too. Mine is the cat one. :-) You are awesome! Love Snowmobiles!
Amazing work makes me want to get into machining
Go for it, it's great fun and a very handy skill to have. I learned by doing and watching TH-cam videos, I'm not exactly an expert, learning new stuff all the time :)
The stuffer sent me here ;) so you sir got a new subscriber :)
So if Alex does make the most powerful 50cc 2 stroke, will he be casting some barrels for your 873cc 4 cylinder 2 stroke.
I did ask that maybe he can cast some parts for me sometime to return the favour so who knows ;)
I don´t think most people realize the intricate procedures of tuning a twostroke engine. When it comes to fourstroke you just slap a turbo or a compressor on it and you can immediately gain 20-50% horsepower with not to much of a hassle. Two stroke tuning is all about the small details and precision. Flow dynamics and timing is everything. Nice job. Better luck with the next casting though. At least I would not waste nikasil on those. God knows where there could be porosity ready to crack at any time. Perhaps heat shrinking a sleeve inside the bore?
hello my friend I hope some videos about the 4 cylinders 2stroke !!! I'm from Brazil and big fan of yours!!! big hug from Brazil!!!
Just found your channel, nice work!! Please finish the 4 cylinder I'm dying to see it... I've been dreaming of an engine like that for a long time but using cr500 barrels to make a 2 litre... oh yeah, then fit it to a small car... ooooohhh yeah!!!! Anyway, i just want to hear it run...
Thank you! The 4 cylinder project kind of ended up on the back burner because I realised it probably wasn't going to be finished this winter, but continuing soon!
@@Hollaendaren Awesome!!
You can modify two Trabant engines 4Zylinder 2x600ccm120hp or more is possible hi from Getmany East, Lutz
porosity will crack the cylinder when it got over 100c i would recomend to use a sleave well lubricated
Hey!
I see you are using the same shape inserts as I do for steel (CCMT universal geometry). But I also have CCGT that have geometry for aluminium - much sharper angle. Give them a try, chinese grade works fine - it's like night and day when working on aluminium compared to CCMT. The cut really smooth and you get a real proffesional looking mirror finish.
Sounds interesting! I'll see if I can find some on ebay. Thanks for the tip!
@@Hollaendaren I got mine here: www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/CCGT--CCMT--06--TIPS-BOX-OF-10-698237.html
Hi Nice job, you should try CCGT inserts made for turning alu, I remember way back in my youth that Kreidler tuning cylinders had small recesses (maby d=0,25mm and t= 0,10mm) with regular intervals in the Nicasil plating.
JB Weld would fill those pit holes pretty good.
This is great stuff im telling you!!!
How do you think the piston (ring) will be able to pass the exhaust port?
The port is half a cylinder wide, and for now, I am pretty sure the spring will jump into the port. Tell me?
Watch 2stroke stuffings videos for an explanation :) basically a special piston with a retained ring.
fine wrk!
✌😎
Nice T shirt!
This Old Tony ❤️
Hahahahaha perfect intro. 😂💪
Damn neat to cast a cylinder or two! I would think a shrunk in alloy liner would not only make the 'scrap' cylinder usable but would be easier to change port timing and clean up/re-shape transfers if needed? Doesn't the bore need to be 0.25~0.50 larger to allow for the plating build up?
Yeah, the scrap cylinder could probably be made usable somehow but there's probably going to be more than one iteration of this cylinder so probably not worth the extra effort it would take. I'm really not sure how much the plating will add but I was told around 0.05 mm and to just make it 40.0, it'll be honed before plating and the piston will be made to size after he sees what the final bore ends up at. If it turns out to be too small we'll know for the next one :)
@@Hollaendaren I'll have to get back on his site and take a look at what he's doing now. It would actually be easier to shrink fit a tube into barrel so you have a known material composition. Heat transfer won't be quite as good as witha one piece design but will still be far better than a cast iron sleeve . I forget who is doing alloy plated liners but one of the 'production' 600cc bikes is doing it using dry liners. If it's good enough for a 140?bhp race bike I'm sure it would be fine for a sub 15hp motor
@@peterjones6945 the goal for this motor is at least 24 HP :) for 15 HP you can buy off the shelf cylinders and don't need to cast your own ;) but yeah, I do get your point. Fitting a tube would bring a lot of extra work though because it needs to be ported, you get most of that for free with a cast cylinder. But definitely something to consider I think if this doesn't work out.
@@Hollaendaren Yeah, you'll need a dividing head with tail-stock centre to machine a tube. Machining cylinder would just be a case of making it about 8mm~10mm larger in the bore, heating to about 250c and dropping tube in. The hardest part is making sure everything is aligned properly but if I was only doing a specific type of cylinder I would probably make a fixture. It's a common, simple process on motorcycle engines using cast iron .sleves, I've done a lot of them. Extruded aluminium would probably need much thicker wall but would also have a much better surface finish
fantastic
Great view of a unique build. How was your bandsaw blade after going through the casting sand?
Wow and bugger at the same time; for the pitting. Cast several more I suppose; until they're right huh ?
Yeah that was a bit of a shame. But it should at least run even with the pitting, and depending on the ring thickness maybe won't even effect performance, I think the pits are small enough to not cause any blow by past the ring. But it'd look a lot nicer without the pits :)
@@Hollaendaren . Yeah we're all with you. I reckon Alex should bolt it all up , run it some heat cycles / run it in and do some dyno run/s. Proof of concept. The design is so radical that in my opinion it could give a noticeable hp rise; that the pitting will only detract from minimally if at-all. As you wrote. Paul . Yeah go for it Alex !!
@@pauloconnor7951 exactly :) there's so much stuff that still needs to be proven, I think the pits are not in the way of anything. Once the concept is proven to work it'd be nice to have one without pits though. But I'm sure there's going to be be more than one iteration of this cylinder so probably have plenty of chances to get it right :)
@@Hollaendaren . agreed. Hurry up Alex; "the suspense is killing me" :)
The music was extremely distracting. Interesting machine work but the music nearly ruins the video.
Could one not be machined out of a solid billet aluminium ? Until the casting process is conquered.
Great work by the way 👍🏻
It would be impossible to machine the transfer ducts and water passages because there's no way to reach them with a milling machine. But a modular billet cylinder would work :) that's something that is on my bucket list, just need to get a dozen or so other projects out of the way first ;)
winter in scandinavia is stressful, cant imagine how much you guys have to drink when its completely fucking dark all the time
The small pits are nota problem after nicasil. They will fuction as lubrication holes.
super fin video .... et lille tricks. prøv at bruge sprit (ethanol) som smøre middel til aluminum. virker meget bedre end olie især ved gevind skæring og savning. (båndsav og rundsav
2 Stroke Never Die
Do you use variable frequency drives or do you have 3-phase in your garage for your lathe and mill?
I have 3-phase, so no need to mess around with stuff like that :)
always like lathe action
You got another subscriber. Where r you located?
Thanks :) I'm in northern Sweden.
@@Hollaendaren that explain the biltema stuff 😀 I'm from Norway
I think he went overboard on the oval exhaust, it might have too much surface area and pull heat out affecting the scavenging and rebound pulse performance. I did read that ktm is using oval header pipes because they maintain better, smoother flow around bends though. Maybe that's the reason?
I would hone those too size when you get them closer
Porosity possibly due to problems in the degassing of the alluminium?
Really not sure myself, I don't know anything about casting. But I think Alex has some ideas what went wrong, so just refine his technique a bit and sooner or later it'll be perfect :)
Hi. Novice machinist here. Why didn't you use an angle plate to hold the cylinder when flattening the intake flange?
Because I don't have one :) still on my wishlist.
Rings wont last a heat cycle! Follow up video?
I dont think it will hold together when it runs......
but it is a kewl project !!
Excelent, disculpa. Que no te puedo escribir en inglés, tengo que armar mi pc,excelentes trabajos!!!!
High pressure liquid aluminum injection casting would be just the ticket. It would cost tens of thousands , maybe hundreds of thousands to set up.
he mcould bore the one with the fault further and have a cast iron bushing inserted in it , if he uses a pistom with a chrome ring it should act close to the same , dies taka some doing to get the ports in and line everything up before pressing the bushing in a hone it to size
Yeah it definitely could be made usable one way or another. But we were already kind of counting on that first one not being usable, I just asked he send it over too so I had one to experiment on, and if it did turn out to be usable that'd have been a bonus.
Great video
New subscriber
Cheers
Dave
Thank you!
Hell again. The relocation of Piston Pin. please keep in mind im no expert just a Garage fella. I took a small file ground both sides smooth and thickness of file a couple thou smaller than Piston Ring Groove. Then I used edge of file to file away the old Pin. For the new Pin 3 ideas, One drill hole .010 smaller than a expanding roll pin. 2. drill through the top of the piston into the desired ring locate pin position, then drill ream undersized press new pin in and use TIG small tig weld on top pin, now never come out, 3. Yah another one sorry,,when re drill for pin use drill and tap small thread and screw in small bolt then cut off and clear ,I hope maybe give idea. Thank-you I enjoy much you're Videos. I am also 2 stroke Fiddler.
Why was it designed not to be sleeved?
Good question preferrably with Iron. Problem solved.
did you degas the metal before casting it?
Why dont you just use a sleeve in that? then you wouldn't have to worry about doing your own plating ?
this is aluminum or steel?
what happened to the 4 cylinder rotax project?
Whats happening with the 4 cyl? I want to see that baby RUN!!
Maybe Alex should have you machine a chromium sleeve and press it in, because we all know that the plating isn't going to fill those pits....just a thought, good luck and keep'em comin!
Did you do the exhaust inspection port cover holes?
Nope, I completely forgot about that. But he hadn't planned for me to do them anyway so I guess it's ok :) he'll glue a plate over it so finish isn't really important, just needs a bit more jb weld maybe :)
"It's a nitrous injection port I mean inspection hole, he told me..."
Nice machining job but alas a total waste of time. The castings are no good, too many imperfections on the bore and welding them all up would distort the casting too much. Take an x-ray or ultra sound of the barrel and you will find it is like swiss cheese through out.
So I was listening to your accent and it felt familiar. Then I looked through your content and remembered a Dutch/swedish (?) Dude that messed around with snowscooters and puchs on the Dutch PuchForum. Is that you?
Great video btw, pretty cool to see a casting go to a full cilinder!
Ha! Yeah that sounds like it's me :) Haven't done much with my Puchs lately though. I guess the closest is the minibike that I built 2 years ago, it has a bunch of Magnum X parts.
Mycket intressant.
Jävligt nyfiken jag också.
Great work but did not get to the end MUSIC !!! ARRRRR.