How to Make Perfume: Santal 33 (type)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ต.ค. 2024
- Today I blend a formula in the style of Santal 33 from Le Labo. You can find the formula on the great subreddit PerfumeryFormulas:
/ le_labo_santal_33_type...
#Perfumer #Perfumery #IndependentPerfumer #Perfume #Cologne #FragComm #DIYPerfume
Just found your channel... It feels like the Mr Rogers of perfuming. So calm and comforting... Love it!
Ryan, you cannot imagine how valuable your videos are. ❤
Thanks, Ryan! I’ve made a version of this almost a year ago, using a slightly different formula, but I haven’t had many ingredients that I have now. It was still really great. So I might try this one soon!
Nice! I’m going to try this formula today.
60% ISO E Super is insane!
Man it seems like I should spray myself with timbersilk almost every fragrance has iso e super in it
They try to make it cheaper. Greed has no ends! Just look at some decades ago perfumes. Heavy as hell and projecting, without much hedion and ISO E. Nowadays with the pricing of materials and IFRA limits every perfume became a scented whisper
@@Mahdizenzone yes almost every one of them is mostly musk, iso e super and hedione. Why even buy a bunch of different ones
Thank u Ryan i will try this formula
I'm still looking for a formula for Vetiver 46.
Love Le Labo!
I haven’t found one either. I’ll keep my eyes open.
Thanks Ryan for your work!!! It's so inspiring!
When you say "tea" quality when you're talking about Cypriol, are you talking about the tannic, leathery facet of regular Black Tea? Because Tea smell is so subtle and intense at the same time... it smells dry but is fresh and watery in other way. It has facets of wood, leather, and ozonic in a weird way... Nothing better than open a new fresh can/box of bagged tea and inhale deeply!
Yes! You put it well - "subtle and intense... dry but fresh... watery..."
I liken that smell, that vibe, to Tea. I wish I could pinpoint it down to a molecule (the same way I'd say that Fennel smells of Methyl Chavicol, instead of saying that Fennel smells like Licorice). Alas, I don't have a reference for that :-|
@@RyanParfums yes, I know, it's so complex but not in the "it's so frustrating" way. It's so tempting to get to know it all and test all the molecules and interactions I guess. You need chemist friends with GCMS machines at their basements. :). You sould make some tier list videos talking about what you percieve about molecules and chords: The most "old lady parfum" molecules, the most fresh molecules. It would be Great!
Vertenex (PTBCHA), Dihydro- ambrettolide (Hexadecanolide), Phenoxanol (rose abs pentanol / Mefrosol), I don't have florhydral so not sure I can use Floralozone smell ozonic; Florhydral is more floral according to my reading.
there's another formula for santal 33 floating around. would be interesting if you mix that as well to compare
Where do you get these formula? Awsome video.
Link is in the video description. Reddit.
If you follow the formula with a total part of 1000, usually for how many ml of perfume?,
Ryan do you add BHT to your perfume concentrate to prevent oxidation?
Yes I do!
Rosemary and Eucalyptus smiler but I prefer eucalyptus over Rosemary.
HI RYAN CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT "PTBCHA" STANDS FOR IN THIS AND OTHER FORUMLAS? THANKS!
It’s Vertenex! It also goes by other names:
Lorysia
4-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate
Para Tertiary Butyl Cyclohexyl Acetate
PTBCHA 🙂
This doesn’t look anything like I would imagine. I did call the Australian Sandalwood. I thought for sure Kephalis would be in there.
Interesting.
a follover from SPAIN
Is a carrier oil required to be mixed into the aroma chemical? Like coconut oil, jojoba, or dpg, I heard that aroma chemical should not be applied directly to the skin.
typically i dilute it with dpg(Dipropylene glycol) or just dilute it with ethanol
Absolutley fine to apply the mixed concentrate directly to skin. Perfumers do it all the time. The effect is the same as if you apply the same amount of concentrate diluted with alcohol: the alcohol evaporates in a matter of seconds or minutes, and all the aromachemicals and naturals remain on your skin surface. Commercial perfume oils contain a carrier mainly to make the fragrance easier to apply with a roller or dabber stick.
What program do you use for the frangrance pyramid?
Formulair
Does anyone know what PTBCHA stands for in this formula and others ?
It stands for PTBCHA. It’s a material with that name
Where do you get the GCMS done if needed? Any Lab you can suggest.
I've heard good things about WB2 Lab Co, based in China. Search for them on LinkedIn.
@@RyanParfums
Yes i have experience with them…Thank you brother.
Best wishes
The price per 100ml here in malaysia doesn't make sense, especially when most of it is iso. Rm1200++ which is about 300usd+
Frustrating. But remember, that money also goes to paying marketing costs, distribution, salaries and commissions for many people up and down the supply chain…
Perhaps ISO E Super helps this fragrance bloom into the beauty that it is - rather than being a perfumers cop out. It’s kind of like saying you don’t think the cost of the Empire State Building is fair (if it were selling) because it’s only made of cheap steel. 🧐
@@yadiyhadini8698
You can purchase from India.
Yea the level of expensive hoops a business has to jump through to make a product, get you to notice it, and get it to your part of the world is what you are paying for.
Aaron Terrence Hughes will give anecdotes of these sorts of headaches from time to time.