Hey Ryan, great video again! Regarding adding a little bit of absolutes to a whole bunch of synthetics... Our nose, or more precise, our brain loves complex stuff, layered stuff or simply a little bit of subtile noise. Naturals often have hundreds of different components. Some of them in such low concentration that most of us are not able to make them out. Not consciously at least. It is like complex music. You hear the main beat, but what makes it interesting and "natural" are the little imperfections of the musician, often intentionally added, the swing, the groove! Small shift in timing, a little delay of a note. Most people don't even realise about that, but the can feel it. Same with scents. When you have a simple, basic accord, let's say a rose accord with 8 lines, you can make it feel a lot more natural and interesting by adding a little bit of an absolute. Basically by adding one natural you transform your 8-liner into a 400-liner with a lot of micro dosed materials. You make it much more complex, even if the particular materials are not to make out. You add some noise, or better, you add "groove" to your perfume beat. Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Picasso, (Bob Ross?)... Thea all used to overpaint their canvasses, probably because they were expensive. But what also happened is that they added a subtile complexity to the new painting as some of the old color was shining through or just an extra level of texture has been added. Very subtile, not being really able to see the old painting, but somehow to feel it. This makes their paintings so lively, so natural, so realistic. Same with perfumes. For example, I do collect all my perfume waste in a bottle. With time, there are hundreds of materials mixed in various concentrations. it's called "mille fleurs", a thousand flowers. And that stuff gets to smell so darn good with time. Impossible to remake, random mixes, but rich and full and complex in their smell. If you dilute that stuff, let's say to 10% or even 1%, and add one or two drops in your finished perfume, you add micro dosed complexity to your perfume and it just somehow smell a bit more interesting, a bit more appealing, a bit more mystic.
Great explainer. I wonder if I should save some of my leftovers for “complexity drops” for a finished fragrance instead of my perfume block on my front yard 🙂
AHAHAHAHAHA THE WIG 😭 Watched almost all your other videos and realized others commented the bob ross thing too… I’m crying hahah ur killing it my man, keep the lovely content coming ✨
When you revisit the various smelling strips at the end, bear in mind that each time you smell them you are saturating your receptors with the first layers (musks in this case...) so I am not surprised that as you progress, the first layers you have added seem to be disappearing or being "toned down", it's probably a bit of olfactory fatigue / saturation kicking in? Perhaps add a final smelling test done a few hours after the blending and after a nice walk outside, that could be interesting? Thanks for your videos and for patiently sourcing all these formulas: I am learning a lot of tricks and constantly getting surprised at some percentages of materials I would have never used myself in that way, or expected to be used in a similar quantity. Fascinating!
I think you’re on to something. When I revisit the fragrance after a few hours, the blend smells much more harmonious. The top notes I smell at the end in the video were really strong in my nose, but after a few hours, coming back to the blend, I could barely smell them.
@@RyanParfums also check out the book "What the nose knows" by Avert Gilbert, if you haven't already. I believe it mentions at some point that this saturation/olfactory fatigue can be harnessed also as a way of telling small differences between 2 variants of a same blend (you over-expose yourself for a little while to the 1st, then you can smell the nuances and differnces in the 2nd, "by subtraction" almost as your nose "cancels" most of the notes that were in the 1st blend as it gets used to them...). Book has a ton of insight also on other interesting psychological and physiological aspects of smell and smelling.
Most of the time traces of floral extracts are because of budget restrictions, but it depends .e.g tagetes oil is extremely potent and restricted. Regarding vanilla absolute, you get the vanilla effect already from vanillin, if you use the absolute it's because you want the other facets, e.g. spicy, liquorice like, somewhat leathery. You don't really get a more beautiful or realistic vanilla by adding vanilla absolute. Of course price is also a factor here even though it's not prohibitively expensive but most perfumers would spend money on other parts of their formula.
Wish there is Y ysl…. I really want something like this and planning to gift it to my love one, he is a fan of this perfume for quite long time despite having many collections on his cabinet…
Fraterworks shipment arriving Monday, can't wait to get started! 👃 When you use your pipette, do you use one per ingredient? Or do you dip in alcohol between each? Just want to figure out how to avoid cross 'contamination' for lack of a better word. I wasn't sure if each pipette was one time use and then tossed out.
@@AlexN-tx1sm Thank you! So you will use and dispose of as many pipettes as there are ingredients, this is correct? We never want to re-use them, even if only using on same ingredient I assume...
@@isobutylquinoline I know it is pretty waistful but if some materials contaminate it would be a even bigger waste. If you predilute your materials you could use bottles with glass pipettes. The problem is with them that there is a chance of ethanol vaporating out of the bottle which fakes the dilution percentage.
Plastic pippetes the safest use is to use a clean one and direct to garbage, no risk of contamination, with plastic there's no way to get rid of the previous materials well. With materials like IES, Hedione, etc I often put a rubber band on the bottle and keep the pippete on the rubber band in the bottle, now, this is not the best bcs the pippete can easily touch another material so all depends on how you organize. I do use glass pippetes, bcs I do so little and I clean them very very well, but still, always risky, that's why the pros only use the plastic ones, use and direct to garbage
@@AlexN-tx1sm I had that problem when I started out, in only a month or too without using the material the weight of it was already less (this was me checking if there was evaporation, even with undiluted materials this happened). I guess it only makes sense in a professional setting when they are using those materials everyday and use them quick
Sorry if this is a stupid question, I’m a complete beginner, but are all these materials pre-diluted at 10%? It doesn’t mention dilutions in the breakdown, so I’m wondering how one would replicate this without knowing the dilution levels? Thank you for these videos- I’m finding them very helpful!
Been dabbling in perfume making for two years, as far as what I get from dilution of any given material depends on the very nature of that material. If they are in powder form or viscous or their substantivity more than 300 hours and if they have tendency of dominating other materials scent wise,or smell obnoxious in raw form, then you need to dilute them up to your liking (%10,%20,%50)until they smell tame in the nose
In short, most of my materials are diluted to 10%. Occasionally, I'll use a neat material or 50%-dilution in order to boost the concentrate of my test batch. When doing this, I'll adjust the amount I put into the batch to account for the difference in dilution. Unfortunately, in these videos, I have to make a choice: Either I provide the concentrate formula, and I make a small version of it; or I provide the exact formula for what I'm making, which often isn't denoted in parts by weight totaling to 1,000 (often the industry practice). I've chosen to provide formulas, or links to formulas such that they are denoted in parts by weight totaling 1,000. This way any perfumer can easily look at the formula and adjust it as needed to make their desired batch size.
Blending starts at 4:22.
I learn a lot from your videos, thank you!
Thank YOU for checking out the channel!
Hey Ryan, great video again!
Regarding adding a little bit of absolutes to a whole bunch of synthetics...
Our nose, or more precise, our brain loves complex stuff, layered stuff or simply a little bit of subtile noise. Naturals often have hundreds of different components. Some of them in such low concentration that most of us are not able to make them out. Not consciously at least. It is like complex music. You hear the main beat, but what makes it interesting and "natural" are the little imperfections of the musician, often intentionally added, the swing, the groove! Small shift in timing, a little delay of a note. Most people don't even realise about that, but the can feel it.
Same with scents. When you have a simple, basic accord, let's say a rose accord with 8 lines, you can make it feel a lot more natural and interesting by adding a little bit of an absolute. Basically by adding one natural you transform your 8-liner into a 400-liner with a lot of micro dosed materials. You make it much more complex, even if the particular materials are not to make out. You add some noise, or better, you add "groove" to your perfume beat.
Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Picasso, (Bob Ross?)... Thea all used to overpaint their canvasses, probably because they were expensive. But what also happened is that they added a subtile complexity to the new painting as some of the old color was shining through or just an extra level of texture has been added. Very subtile, not being really able to see the old painting, but somehow to feel it. This makes their paintings so lively, so natural, so realistic.
Same with perfumes. For example, I do collect all my perfume waste in a bottle. With time, there are hundreds of materials mixed in various concentrations. it's called "mille fleurs", a thousand flowers. And that stuff gets to smell so darn good with time. Impossible to remake, random mixes, but rich and full and complex in their smell. If you dilute that stuff, let's say to 10% or even 1%, and add one or two drops in your finished perfume, you add micro dosed complexity to your perfume and it just somehow smell a bit more interesting, a bit more appealing, a bit more mystic.
Great explainer. I wonder if I should save some of my leftovers for “complexity drops” for a finished fragrance instead of my perfume block on my front yard 🙂
That intro 🤣🤣👏👏👏
AHAHAHAHAHA THE WIG 😭
Watched almost all your other videos and realized others commented the bob ross thing too… I’m crying hahah ur killing it my man, keep the lovely content coming ✨
When you revisit the various smelling strips at the end, bear in mind that each time you smell them you are saturating your receptors with the first layers (musks in this case...) so I am not surprised that as you progress, the first layers you have added seem to be disappearing or being "toned down", it's probably a bit of olfactory fatigue / saturation kicking in? Perhaps add a final smelling test done a few hours after the blending and after a nice walk outside, that could be interesting?
Thanks for your videos and for patiently sourcing all these formulas: I am learning a lot of tricks and constantly getting surprised at some percentages of materials I would have never used myself in that way, or expected to be used in a similar quantity. Fascinating!
I think you’re on to something. When I revisit the fragrance after a few hours, the blend smells much more harmonious. The top notes I smell at the end in the video were really strong in my nose, but after a few hours, coming back to the blend, I could barely smell them.
@@RyanParfums also check out the book "What the nose knows" by Avert Gilbert, if you haven't already. I believe it mentions at some point that this saturation/olfactory fatigue can be harnessed also as a way of telling small differences between 2 variants of a same blend (you over-expose yourself for a little while to the 1st, then you can smell the nuances and differnces in the 2nd, "by subtraction" almost as your nose "cancels" most of the notes that were in the 1st blend as it gets used to them...). Book has a ton of insight also on other interesting psychological and physiological aspects of smell and smelling.
the hair piece suits!! another great video Ryan :)
I'm a bit disappointed because i've expected you to paint but cooking some perfume is ok too. Joke aside, I've been waiting for this, great content!
I am a good follower of yours and I have bought some items and started applying. I hope you will come up with a perfume the one D&G
Most of the time traces of floral extracts are because of budget restrictions, but it depends .e.g tagetes oil is extremely potent and restricted. Regarding vanilla absolute, you get the vanilla effect already from vanillin, if you use the absolute it's because you want the other facets, e.g. spicy, liquorice like, somewhat leathery. You don't really get a more beautiful or realistic vanilla by adding vanilla absolute. Of course price is also a factor here even though it's not prohibitively expensive but most perfumers would spend money on other parts of their formula.
Wish there is Y ysl…. I really want something like this and planning to gift it to my love one, he is a fan of this perfume for quite long time despite having many collections on his cabinet…
Excellent video and nice presentation...please Allure Home edition blamch
I will look for a formula :-)
Thanks Ryan! Do you use pipet for disposable intent?
Yes. My pipettes are disposable
Dolce and Gabbana Pour Homme Vintage formulation please....
Fraterworks shipment arriving Monday, can't wait to get started! 👃 When you use your pipette, do you use one per ingredient? Or do you dip in alcohol between each? Just want to figure out how to avoid cross 'contamination' for lack of a better word. I wasn't sure if each pipette was one time use and then tossed out.
Only use one for each ingredient. This is very important.
@@AlexN-tx1sm Thank you! So you will use and dispose of as many pipettes as there are ingredients, this is correct? We never want to re-use them, even if only using on same ingredient I assume...
@@isobutylquinoline I know it is pretty waistful but if some materials contaminate it would be a even bigger waste.
If you predilute your materials you could use bottles with glass pipettes. The problem is with them that there is a chance of ethanol vaporating out of the bottle which fakes the dilution percentage.
Plastic pippetes the safest use is to use a clean one and direct to garbage, no risk of contamination, with plastic there's no way to get rid of the previous materials well. With materials like IES, Hedione, etc I often put a rubber band on the bottle and keep the pippete on the rubber band in the bottle, now, this is not the best bcs the pippete can easily touch another material so all depends on how you organize. I do use glass pippetes, bcs I do so little and I clean them very very well, but still, always risky, that's why the pros only use the plastic ones, use and direct to garbage
@@AlexN-tx1sm I had that problem when I started out, in only a month or too without using the material the weight of it was already less (this was me checking if there was evaporation, even with undiluted materials this happened). I guess it only makes sense in a professional setting when they are using those materials everyday and use them quick
Hibiskus is a specific kind of rose from China, ambrette seed is produced by Abelmoschus moschatus, completely different one.
Thank you!
Cinnamic alcohol - “like a warm blanket in your nose”, LOL
Sorry if this is a stupid question, I’m a complete beginner, but are all these materials pre-diluted at 10%? It doesn’t mention dilutions in the breakdown, so I’m wondering how one would replicate this without knowing the dilution levels? Thank you for these videos- I’m finding them very helpful!
Been dabbling in perfume making for two years, as far as what I get from dilution of any given material depends on the very nature of that material. If they are in powder form or viscous or their substantivity more than 300 hours and if they have tendency of dominating other materials scent wise,or smell obnoxious in raw form, then you need to dilute them up to your liking (%10,%20,%50)until they smell tame in the nose
In short, most of my materials are diluted to 10%. Occasionally, I'll use a neat material or 50%-dilution in order to boost the concentrate of my test batch. When doing this, I'll adjust the amount I put into the batch to account for the difference in dilution.
Unfortunately, in these videos, I have to make a choice: Either I provide the concentrate formula, and I make a small version of it; or I provide the exact formula for what I'm making, which often isn't denoted in parts by weight totaling to 1,000 (often the industry practice).
I've chosen to provide formulas, or links to formulas such that they are denoted in parts by weight totaling 1,000. This way any perfumer can easily look at the formula and adjust it as needed to make their desired batch size.
Is the unit for” 1000” in the formula, in grams? (1k grams) ?
Technically it’s in “parts by weight”, but grams is probably the most common interpretation. So yes, that will work. 😊
What is the similarity?
Very close! We’ll see how it matures
I made Burberry weekend
And i have already charabot Burberry weekend oil based.
And its totally different...
Why ?
I don’t fully understand this question. If you ask again with more detail I can try to answer.
🤣🤗🫶