Starting next month you can also catch me streaming on twitch! www.twitch.tv/zumikito_miniatures In other news, the glowing brain of the tyranid was inspired by @elminiaturista !
I don’t have steady hands, so I use dry brushing as an alternative to edge highlights, simply follow up a heavy dry brush with a wash. Gives a nice sharp edge on vehicles and armor without the toonish appearance I get when trying to edge highlight. For example a Deathwing color scheme zandri dust spray, heavy dry brush with terminus stone, then wash with agrax earth shade… that gets your armor 90% done. Or dome enough to start working on other colors.
Great to see another 'Explained In 5 Minutes' video. They're all brilliant - clearly explained, informative and entertaining (which keeps me engaged) - and this is no exception. Thank you and please keep making them! I'm also DELIGHTED to see you're going to be streaming! 😀
Best way I've found is to think of it as the 'wet brush dry paint' technique, you want your paint thick because that creates a nice strong colour to apply with (I've left paint to dry for 5-10 minutes before to ensure this and it worked amazing) and then of course the damp brush so that the paint wants to slide off the brush whilst still being smooth.
This video actually fixed my main problem I had. I was wondering why my models were either too dusty or I had too much texture on it. My brush was not damp.
Same here i had one model come out fantastic and was like in figured it out! (No idea what i did different) next model dusty. Cant wait to try it again now that i know whats up
You're the best . I just upvote before watching i like how you dont wast my time. Even the fluff is entertaining. Thanks man for the no bs lessons which keeps my short attention from wondering. If i ever win any painting competition ill be sure to to give credit where credit is due.
Hobby trick call sprue glue… it’s tamiya ultra thin with old sprues tossed in and melted into the glue mix to create a plastic glue. I believe zumikito or another mini painter TH-camr talks about it in another video of theirs. It’s your gap filler only glue, basically one bottle devoted to this stuff, not your regular glue. Hope that helps!
Thanks for explaining the concept with clarity in 5 minutes. A lesser man would have tried to stretch this topic into a boring and redundant 15 minutes.
He paints that Tyranid model in 2 hours and it looks so wicked. Me that would take like 2 days lol. If you dont have a air brush or a spray can. Can you dry brush a light white for a zenithel highlight ?
I love the green carapace, it looks amazing. I was wondering if you could tell me what paint you used as the first green? I have ae similar scheme for mine for the carapace but my first green is very thin and needs sooo many coats to be smooth!
Thanks for the tips! I'm brand new to painting minis and I'm going to be trying drybrushing for the first time on some tyranids. I'm going for a very similar pinky/magenta skin tone and when i saw how awesome the green carapace looked with it, I'm thinking of ditching my original plans (scarlet red). Could you please tell me which greens you used, to help me ponder it over?
I made one from arms, heads, and random guns and stuff. it works really well and I find the familiar shapes and surfaces give a solid feel for how the paint will interact with the surface.
I've been out of mini painting for nearly 15 years. It feels like there have been so many advances and innovations in technique and the equipment available, that I don't know where to start 😂
I will start drybrushing very soon. But what i had to ask. After a session u have to clean your pallet right? Some creators build a pallet out of old plastic pieces or so. I thought that would be very hard to clean up. but if you dont do that then the pigments are still there right and you will eventually reactivate them in the next session. Also if you use very light colors that could be a problem or isnt it if the old paint is totaly dry?
most of the time it's not a problem, but if you are worried about it, you can simply prime the drybrushing palette again so you don't have to clean up anything
Thanks for the quick explanation. After watching a lot of Artis Opus videos on drybrushing I still struggle to get the correct ratio of paint and moisture in my drybrush. Do you think that texture palette helps over some piece of cardboard?
Though I'm still new to drybrushing, the textured palette I bought from AO makes a world of difference as I find it allows the paint to grab the brush better when pulling off of it.
Hello Zumikito, Hello everyone, I'm fairly new here and I was wondering which platforms you use to 3D print your Miniatures or those that you think are the best !
I bought all of them (given this is my profession) and maybe you coud skip on the biggest one and the smallest one. If you have a tight budget, you might even try some cheap make up brushes before comitting to them
This is something completely unrelated to the video, but does anyone know why when im painting resin minis, if i hold part of the model to make it easier to paint, any paint around edges and other close areas keeps coming off. Does anyone know how to fix this? Or is it as simple as using a clear coat after you prime
Sprue goo. When your plastic glue runs low, toss some fine sliced sprue bits in. They dissolve into a liquid plastic paste. Use a new clean glue bottle for gluing, use the goo for filling. As each clean glue bottle runs low, and the brush doesn't reach the bottom, add it to the goo. You can keep a goo bottle going for years.
I have painted for some time already and you could count on your hands how many paint bottles ran out. I wouldn't worry about it - I would rather have a nice model than being too careful with my tools
2:26 I totally disagree with you! I think this is a great style. It could just be a bit more visible. Yeah its not super smooth but who cares? I like this almost-fog-like layer on the armor :)
Another how to not suck video suggestion would be washing! I can’t use acrylic washes! I spend time painting something and then decide to use a wash because your supposed to right lol. Then I’ve screwed everything up. Especially on skins my solution I don’t use washes aside from the occasional pin wash or oil wash. I would love to learn to use acrylic washes! Please help by making a not suck a washes video!
The big issue I have with dry brushing is that always ends up looking flat, dull and chalky. Yes it highlights the raised edges but also makes the surface look two dimensional. And it's just so overused and obvious. Zenithal airbrushing followed with a wash (or pin wash) to always looks SO much better and you can then use edge highlighting to bring out the to top level detail, if needed.
Starting next month you can also catch me streaming on twitch! www.twitch.tv/zumikito_miniatures
In other news, the glowing brain of the tyranid was inspired by @elminiaturista !
The problem with telling us we suck is making everyone who isn't an expert painter feel shit about the minnies we paint
Mr Surfacer
'Don't go in dry': wise words for many situations
Ahhhhh....a visage to life itself 🧐
But what about British comedy....
Was about to type something similar but ya beat me to it xD
*Slaanesh liked that*
No.2 "Dont go in dry" amen brother...amen
Most important step
Thats what she said
Don't you know girls like the bad boys???
Tis what she remarked lol.
Also I believe it was Nerf Super Soaker said it best, "wetter is better!"
I don’t have steady hands, so I use dry brushing as an alternative to edge highlights, simply follow up a heavy dry brush with a wash. Gives a nice sharp edge on vehicles and armor without the toonish appearance I get when trying to edge highlight. For example a Deathwing color scheme zandri dust spray, heavy dry brush with terminus stone, then wash with agrax earth shade… that gets your armor 90% done. Or dome enough to start working on other colors.
I just received the Artis Opus XS D brush....I think it's going to be my edger 😅
Great to see another 'Explained In 5 Minutes' video. They're all brilliant - clearly explained, informative and entertaining (which keeps me engaged) - and this is no exception. Thank you and please keep making them! I'm also DELIGHTED to see you're going to be streaming! 😀
Best way I've found is to think of it as the 'wet brush dry paint' technique, you want your paint thick because that creates a nice strong colour to apply with (I've left paint to dry for 5-10 minutes before to ensure this and it worked amazing) and then of course the damp brush so that the paint wants to slide off the brush whilst still being smooth.
This video actually fixed my main problem I had. I was wondering why my models were either too dusty or I had too much texture on it. My brush was not damp.
Same here i had one model come out fantastic and was like in figured it out! (No idea what i did different) next model dusty.
Cant wait to try it again now that i know whats up
You're the best . I just upvote before watching i like how you dont wast my time. Even the fluff is entertaining. Thanks man for the no bs lessons which keeps my short attention from wondering. If i ever win any painting competition ill be sure to to give credit where credit is due.
I’m trying to figure out what I learned here.
same, its the same shit in every video, nobody has any actual useful information
Great to see you giving drybrushing the 5-minute treatment!
If we cross paths at a con please come and say hello, we could do some in person :)
Will do! Tbh if I didn't see the way you drybrushed your GUO, I wouldn't even give drybrushing a chance 😁
I beg either of you to dry brush a white or bone like deathwing scheme for the community 🎉😊
@@Zumikito😍The Big Papa brings many gifts!
Love your work, man!
You now made me very happy I bought a Leviathan box
The mold line on the necron arm actually looks good to me, almost like the sharp edge of a mechanical part.
If you dont have a dampening pad you can use your wet pallete in a similar manner.
Great to find a video I never knew I missed or needed, thanks for the work.
I'd love to see more bugs painted in this scheme. It is quite cool!
This was a good tutorial. Thank you for teaching me something new.
What green paints did you use on that tyranid?
Really enjoying your videos Zumikito. Great advice, humour, and cool techniques to try. Keep up the good work!
Great Video full of useful tips. Thank you!
Circular motion also works if your are lightening up a base coat after shading, note BEFORE highlighting edges and stuff.
Does anyone know what product is used at 0:52 ? Sounds like an easier way to fill up gaps than milliput or greenstuff!
Hobby trick call sprue glue… it’s tamiya ultra thin with old sprues tossed in and melted into the glue mix to create a plastic glue. I believe zumikito or another mini painter TH-camr talks about it in another video of theirs. It’s your gap filler only glue, basically one bottle devoted to this stuff, not your regular glue. Hope that helps!
@@conorboehm746 thanks mate!
Thanks for explaining the concept with clarity in 5 minutes. A lesser man would have tried to stretch this topic into a boring and redundant 15 minutes.
Hey, Zumikito, thank you for your videos - I am using them as a manuals for improving my painter skills❤❤❤
Betting butts to brushes is never a winning strategy. A good video for speeding up the mass painting
Could you give advice for when drybryshing to avoid paint entering recesses such as when painting the Necron tesseract vault?
are you able to give a little detail on the colours/method for the brain section? I really like the look of it and want to try it myself
Cool tips. Thank you.
Awesome! Thanks for this video, you really point out everything us sucky painters need to hear
Dude, I watch these just to laugh at your jokes! Bonus... it makes me want to try more dry brushing! Model looks great.
He paints that Tyranid model in 2 hours and it looks so wicked. Me that would take like 2 days lol. If you dont have a air brush or a spray can. Can you dry brush a light white for a zenithel highlight ?
I love the green carapace, it looks amazing. I was wondering if you could tell me what paint you used as the first green? I have ae similar scheme for mine for the carapace but my first green is very thin and needs sooo many coats to be smooth!
the very first layer was russian green from ak!
I too would like to know the colors used
If you have a bitz box you can take a few (different shapes) and practice. You can test everything, pressure, brushes, paint, .....
Thanks for the tips! I'm brand new to painting minis and I'm going to be trying drybrushing for the first time on some tyranids. I'm going for a very similar pinky/magenta skin tone and when i saw how awesome the green carapace looked with it, I'm thinking of ditching my original plans (scarlet red). Could you please tell me which greens you used, to help me ponder it over?
What's the thing you're using to get the paint off your brush before doing the dry brushing? I really like it.
A texturepallete.
You can make your own. Just glue a bunch of plastic bits packed close together.
What is that palette you use in the background?
it's a textured palette from Artis Opus
I made one from arms, heads, and random guns and stuff. it works really well and I find the familiar shapes and surfaces give a solid feel for how the paint will interact with the surface.
@@Zumikito How do you clean it between sessions?
I've been out of mini painting for nearly 15 years. It feels like there have been so many advances and innovations in technique and the equipment available, that I don't know where to start 😂
Great videos…thanks.
I like your style of content. You paint pretty good also! lol
I will start drybrushing very soon. But what i had to ask. After a session u have to clean your pallet right? Some creators build a pallet out of old plastic pieces or so. I thought that would be very hard to clean up. but if you dont do that then the pigments are still there right and you will eventually reactivate them in the next session. Also if you use very light colors that could be a problem or isnt it if the old paint is totaly dry?
most of the time it's not a problem, but if you are worried about it, you can simply prime the drybrushing palette again so you don't have to clean up anything
where did you get that painting mat? that would be great for me to test how much i paint i have
What is the Matt/pad youre using to get the extra paint off called ?
How do you get wash I’ve been stuck on how to get it can you help me😅
What drybrushes are you using here and where did you get them? Thanks!
what kind of paint did you use, if it's not a secret ?)
I'm interested in colors
Yeah, I'd love to know what the colours are here?
Do I dry brush before or after using paint
What's the stuff you use to fill the gaps, a Tamiya product from the look of it?
Ok, Thin Cement!
Hi, what is the brush you were using for dry brushing please?
Is it wise to just dry brush a mini instead of highlighting it manually? If so why or why not
ciao la base dove metti i colori, che materiale è?
Great tips! A damp dry brush is new to me. By the way, I cannot find your "sprue glue" video. Is it only on Patreon?
Oh no, it's free and in the end screen of this video!
Where did you get the texture mat from?
Thanks for the quick explanation. After watching a lot of Artis Opus videos on drybrushing I still struggle to get the correct ratio of paint and moisture in my drybrush. Do you think that texture palette helps over some piece of cardboard?
Though I'm still new to drybrushing, the textured palette I bought from AO makes a world of difference as I find it allows the paint to grab the brush better when pulling off of it.
Almost spat out my dinner @ 3:48
Hello Zumikito, Hello everyone, I'm fairly new here and I was wondering which platforms you use to 3D print your Miniatures or those that you think are the best !
Which sizes would you recommend from the Artis Opus drybrush range, Zumikito?
I bought all of them (given this is my profession) and maybe you coud skip on the biggest one and the smallest one. If you have a tight budget, you might even try some cheap make up brushes before comitting to them
@@Zumikito I actually have a cheap makeup brush set.. I just really love the look of those Artis Opus brushes 🤣That's so sad...
Cany you explain how to clean dry brushes?
love that beard
This is something completely unrelated to the video, but does anyone know why when im painting resin minis, if i hold part of the model to make it easier to paint, any paint around edges and other close areas keeps coming off. Does anyone know how to fix this? Or is it as simple as using a clear coat after you prime
What do you use to fill in the gaps? I have been trying liquid greenstuff but I am never happy with the resoults.
Sprue goo.
When your plastic glue runs low, toss some fine sliced sprue bits in.
They dissolve into a liquid plastic paste.
Use a new clean glue bottle for gluing, use the goo for filling.
As each clean glue bottle runs low, and the brush doesn't reach the bottom, add it to the goo.
You can keep a goo bottle going for years.
I tryed to remove a mold line on a halbard and bent it 😭
Thank you bro ❤
This was hilarious, thanks XD
i have two armies the one i play with and the one i paint to look good. the army play with i don't mind if it looks frumpy they are game models lol.
Necrons having mold lines isn't really a problem, it goes with the aesthetic
Im shit at painting. Those space marines look fine to me. I would play.
Don't go in dry. Words to live by!
How can you make dry brushing less wasteful?
I have painted for some time already and you could count on your hands how many paint bottles ran out. I wouldn't worry about it - I would rather have a nice model than being too careful with my tools
Me looking at the one which it should look like: "Hey, that's me!"
2:26 I totally disagree with you!
I think this is a great style. It could just be a bit more visible. Yeah its not super smooth but who cares? I like this almost-fog-like layer on the armor :)
6. Support any flimsy delicate parts, so you don't knock them off.
Another how to not suck video suggestion would be washing! I can’t use acrylic washes! I spend time painting something and then decide to use a wash because your supposed to right lol. Then I’ve screwed everything up. Especially on skins my solution I don’t use washes aside from the occasional pin wash or oil wash. I would love to learn to use acrylic washes! Please help by making a not suck a washes video!
Don't, oil washes are just superior.
Dilute your wash before applying?
Better to use multiple pale washes, to get the darkness you require, than accidentally wash with too dark a shade.
You were going to mention how to easily fill the gaps before Drybrushing. Hints are welcomed.
Spruegoo
How I have to find a way to prove this is not helpful for the cheeks XD
rules 2, 3, & 5 are for more than just miniatures. Or so I've been told... apparently I am also optimised for speed. 😂
The big issue I have with dry brushing is that always ends up looking flat, dull and chalky. Yes it highlights the raised edges but also makes the surface look two dimensional. And it's just so overused and obvious.
Zenithal airbrushing followed with a wash (or pin wash) to always looks SO much better and you can then use edge highlighting to bring out the to top level detail, if needed.
A lot of times i try to remove these stupid moldlines and when i paint, i see how much i havent seen 😂😂
Always go in dry ...
slap chop shows those mold lines like no other, you think you got em all but nope...slap chop finds them
Mould lines on necrons aren't as bad as with something like Nids. They still look like shit though.
if your players need classes to read cards they definitely don't see any caps on miniatures xD
You didn’t address the worst drybrushing mistake: streaks.
Man has a lot of faith in not drybrushing small details to bet his ass cheeks on it.
vid needs time stamps for the individual tips
*promosm* 😆
I can't imagine spending 2 hours on a mini. There is no in game value for the extra work.
Water melon
wasd
First comment🎉
Bro what is this accent?