This is why GMBN Tech is a must for any mtb'r...or actually cyclist...Advise that is as important to know as it is easy to follow and understand!! Well done all involved 👍
Appreciate the video as I'll teaching a few bike maintenance clinic next month. It is always nice to see how you present. Most times when it is time to replace my wore brake pads I find I need to push my piston back into the caliper so there is enough space for the new pads.
Could have done with a tip as to how to break a tyre bead from the rim on the trail, as sometimes they can become very stuck with tubeless tyres. Sometimes you have to get really quite forceful and use big tools to break a tubeless bead.
#ChangingPads. ... Warning... If you have topped up or bled your brakes recently, the reservoir may be full... so when you put new pads in... the thicker pads will require pushing the pistons in a little more... which pumps more oil back up to the reservoir... which is already full. use caution when pushing the pistons in that your not pushing oil out at the top or (as there is a bellows in the top that seals the oil in) your not putting pressure on the bellows which will affect your brake performance. It's a good idea to do a full brake flush when changing pads so you get new fluid, in the correct amount at the same time you fit those new pads... (And it doesn't hurt to give the caliper and disk a good spray over with some brake clean when done. (You can use a paper towel to clean off any excess, and if there was any oil/contaminant on the caliper, a couple of spray/wipe cycles wouldn't go amiss. A cheap can of brake clean should be in every garage/vehicle.
Because of this reason Shimano says bleeding should be done with the pads removed and the bleeding block (the yellow plastic also used to put in sleeves if the hoses are shortened) installed, if bleeding is done with worn pads there will be too much oil in the brake system and the reservoir (essentially a small rubber balloon) could burst in worst case. Pads should be removed anyways during bleeding since they could get contaminated easily.
@@simonm1447 Personally I bleed all my bikes with the pads in so they are bled to match the gap... but then again I'm careful with the bleeds and you can always remove the pads and give them a clean afterwards. But that's me.. and not everyone has a brake block that matches their pads & disk size. At least nowdays most brake systems are mineral oil so no more hygroscopic paint stripper...
@@simonm1447 , first time I changed pads I found that out the hard way, when I pushed in the pistons with a full reservoir and ruined my XTR lever (popped seal). $50 pads and a $125 lever made for a $175 brake pads change. 🤬
@@pgjudo that's sad, but things like this happen sometimes. 20 years ago I swapped tires (from summer to winter) on the family's car, unfortunately the winter rims needed shorter bolts (which the tire shop forgot to give to us when we picked up the wheels), and the now too long ones destroyed both brake pistons of the rear drum brake. Fortunately nothing happened beside the brake damage.
Great video Anna. Too bad this didn't come out sooner as new brand new Orbea MTB suffered from that cable stretch.😁 Gears started slipping so I took it back to my LBS and they just did a quick adjustment on the barrel adjuster and worked!! I guess I could have done it myself, but it is under warranty anyway.
something also to watch on a new bike after a good bit of use... spoke tension... Not often, but sometimes a spoke will be under tight from new, or slacken off with things settling... A simple spin of the wheel and pinging a small spanner, screw driver etc on the spokes gives a constant ping ping ping that should be even... If you get a spoke with a notably different note... its more loose (lower) or tight (higher note) than the others... Also a good test if you get a pinch flat or other hard wheel strike.... Although bikes are very well assembled now days, don't 100% trust that everything is tight... (And then there's things YOU do up... I just did a run on a fast tech drop run and wondered why the bike was bucking me at every turn.... Front axle was loose... I never undo it and didn't check before the ride... so much so that at the top I assumed "something odd" was front bearings and didn't chect the axle even then... till I was at the bottom... Made for a hilarious ride/video for me anyway.
I've got a tire inflation hack video. Just use a strap or some cord wrapped around the centre line of the tire and, snug it down tight to the bead. Use soapy water as well. NO need to shock anything...
not a bad idea... Ratchet tiedown perhaps. Of course a home compressor (or local Garage free air) is usually enough.... (but I run tubes so can actually say I've experimented with MTB... (Plenty of motor bike tyres and even a ride on mower tho... (The latter actually needed brake clean and flame to explode it onto the rim due to small rim size, wide tyre and out of round new tyre from sitting on a shelf... I think the ratchet tie down may have worked but not with the explosion mounting trick... (I have seen this done with MTB but not recommended for the faint hearted... then again using 80PSI to bead a road bike is good for a heart attack when it finally decides to bead... I'm not a jumpy person but it still gets the heckles up.
Re: plugging a flat. Back in my day, plugging car flats, after getting the plug in we'd burn the plug tag to the surface of the tire (tyre?). Is that a no no for MTB tire repairs? (imagine all that w/o breaking a nail, how classy is that?!)
I only have one gear that is causing me problems, up and downshifting to the 6th gear. The rest is shifting crisp, what can it be? Is the cog itself worn out?
My bike was doing something like this. It would shift up into the gear just fine, but then have problems shifting down into it. The other gears worked fine. I tracked down the issue to internal friction. There was enough friction in the cables that the derailleur didn't have enough spring force to fully settle down into the shift. Replacing the front shifter housing helped a lot, but didn't completely cure the issue. The rear housing was actually in quite good condition. One thing I do know is that Shimano modified their derailleurs in the '90s to reduce their compatibility with Gripshift (it probably helps them sell more cable and housing too). What I did was I bought a small compression spring from the hardware store, and installed it between the cable clamp and cable stop on the rear derailleur. It helps boost the spring force on the derailleur's parallelogram linkage, and was all I need to get my shifting working fine again.
Could someone help me… can I run my gear cable to the rear mech housed all the way? My cables run so awkward on my bike I was hoping I could house it all the way, my bad if it’s a stupid question lol
My rear disc sounds like 30 mice are chewing when i hit the breaks, wonder hwat that could be? Its not contaminated by anything so it not the squeal, it just sounds like small rodents chewing... so weird
It can probably be contamination. You can clean the pads with alcohol and sandpaper, and clean the rotor with a paper or a rag and alcohol, this should help. If you use a bike just occasionally it can also happen, but in this case it should vanish if the brake has been used a couple of times. Especially the rear brake is jeopardized by contamination if sprays are used for chain lubrication. The best thing is to avoid the usage of oil spray anywhere near disc brakes at all.
@@simonm1447 Hey Simon, thanks for the tip, yeh i thought about that too but havent had the time. I think i ran my brakes really warm on a decent and have glazed the pads maybe?
@@martinhagen2913 Hard to say. On my MTB my disc brakes (Resin pads, MT200s with BS01) ) get quite hot from time to time too, but the pads never glazed, even if the front rotor started to become brown and blue. It's more the opposite, the brake force even got better after they got hot. If they should be glazed the sand paper should make them fine again.
Is it making a sort of a grinding sound? My brakes did that just after I washed my bike. I just uploaded a video the other day on to resolve that issue.
As long as you dont have grease or oil on your fingers you will be fine. Natural skin oils wont contaminate your brakes no matter how many manufacturers tell you it will
Sure, those tipps didnt evolve...because the mechanical problems didnt either...but it is still a different script. And some people who are new to the channel or mtb will appreciate this "reboot" in their actual feed
That's all they do with all there videos, multiple videos of the same, just redone over and over again. It's a shit channel anyways, all the gmbn lot make me embarrassed to be British, these lot are a joke
If you were a newbie looking for tips... do you look at years old ones, or recent ones (Even when this video would work 20 years ago with perhaps only the tubeless on a mountain bike being a bit futuristic. I watched it right through and i was servicing my Magura disks in 2000... and suffering the same alignment issues when I made my own caliper mount for the Hayes on the back. But back the I had to ask people or read a book, or figure it out for myself. Watch this space when ABS becomes the norm for E-Bikes.
This is why GMBN Tech is a must for any mtb'r...or actually cyclist...Advise that is as important to know as it is easy to follow and understand!! Well done all involved 👍
You mean it's like a biking channel for children 😂
@@superchickensoup in reality aren't all Moutain bikers big children at heart!?!😊
More of these, PLEASE !!!
Appreciate the video as I'll teaching a few bike maintenance clinic next month. It is always nice to see how you present. Most times when it is time to replace my wore brake pads I find I need to push my piston back into the caliper so there is enough space for the new pads.
Great little go to for anyone just getting into it. Thank you!
Great tips to always go over, you never know when might need it. I love you Anna! ❤️ 🚴
Gear cable tension and Brake pads are gonna come really handy for me thanks👍
Bookmarking this and will send to my customers who know nothing about the basics.
Nice one Anna, most of it I already knew but no harm in going over it again. Thanks 😊
Could have done with a tip as to how to break a tyre bead from the rim on the trail, as sometimes they can become very stuck with tubeless tyres. Sometimes you have to get really quite forceful and use big tools to break a tubeless bead.
Try stepping on the bead and pulling up on the wheel 😉
#ChangingPads. ... Warning...
If you have topped up or bled your brakes recently, the reservoir may be full... so when you put new pads in... the thicker pads will require pushing the pistons in a little more... which pumps more oil back up to the reservoir... which is already full.
use caution when pushing the pistons in that your not pushing oil out at the top or (as there is a bellows in the top that seals the oil in) your not putting pressure on the bellows which will affect your brake performance.
It's a good idea to do a full brake flush when changing pads so you get new fluid, in the correct amount at the same time you fit those new pads...
(And it doesn't hurt to give the caliper and disk a good spray over with some brake clean when done. (You can use a paper towel to clean off any excess, and if there was any oil/contaminant on the caliper, a couple of spray/wipe cycles wouldn't go amiss.
A cheap can of brake clean should be in every garage/vehicle.
Because of this reason Shimano says bleeding should be done with the pads removed and the bleeding block (the yellow plastic also used to put in sleeves if the hoses are shortened) installed, if bleeding is done with worn pads there will be too much oil in the brake system and the reservoir (essentially a small rubber balloon) could burst in worst case.
Pads should be removed anyways during bleeding since they could get contaminated easily.
@@simonm1447 Personally I bleed all my bikes with the pads in so they are bled to match the gap... but then again I'm careful with the bleeds and you can always remove the pads and give them a clean afterwards. But that's me.. and not everyone has a brake block that matches their pads & disk size.
At least nowdays most brake systems are mineral oil so no more hygroscopic paint stripper...
@@TheButlerNZ I ride MT200s, they also use mineral oil.
If you buy them seperately (for example for a retrofit) the plastic block is included.
@@simonm1447 , first time I changed pads I found that out the hard way, when I pushed in the pistons with a full reservoir and ruined my XTR lever (popped seal). $50 pads and a $125 lever made for a $175 brake pads change. 🤬
@@pgjudo that's sad, but things like this happen sometimes.
20 years ago I swapped tires (from summer to winter) on the family's car, unfortunately the winter rims needed shorter bolts (which the tire shop forgot to give to us when we picked up the wheels), and the now too long ones destroyed both brake pistons of the rear drum brake.
Fortunately nothing happened beside the brake damage.
Great advice
Great channel
My go to
Great video Anna. Too bad this didn't come out sooner as new brand new Orbea MTB suffered from that cable stretch.😁 Gears started slipping so I took it back to my LBS and they just did a quick adjustment on the barrel adjuster and worked!! I guess I could have done it myself, but it is under warranty anyway.
something also to watch on a new bike after a good bit of use... spoke tension... Not often, but sometimes a spoke will be under tight from new, or slacken off with things settling...
A simple spin of the wheel and pinging a small spanner, screw driver etc on the spokes gives a constant ping ping ping that should be even...
If you get a spoke with a notably different note... its more loose (lower) or tight (higher note) than the others...
Also a good test if you get a pinch flat or other hard wheel strike....
Although bikes are very well assembled now days, don't 100% trust that everything is tight...
(And then there's things YOU do up... I just did a run on a fast tech drop run and wondered why the bike was bucking me at every turn....
Front axle was loose... I never undo it and didn't check before the ride... so much so that at the top I assumed "something odd" was front bearings and didn't chect the axle even then... till I was at the bottom...
Made for a hilarious ride/video for me anyway.
I could listen to you talking about bikes all day.
Great video
Would love some tips about wheels/spokes tensioning added to these
Why, there are already 100s of videos on TH-cam about that
Well, there are 100s of videos on TH-cam about all the other stuff mentioned as well :)
I've got a tire inflation hack video. Just use a strap or some cord wrapped around the centre line of the tire and, snug it down tight to the bead. Use soapy water as well. NO need to shock anything...
not a bad idea... Ratchet tiedown perhaps. Of course a home compressor (or local Garage free air) is usually enough.... (but I run tubes so can actually say I've experimented with MTB... (Plenty of motor bike tyres and even a ride on mower tho... (The latter actually needed brake clean and flame to explode it onto the rim due to small rim size, wide tyre and out of round new tyre from sitting on a shelf... I think the ratchet tie down may have worked but not with the explosion mounting trick...
(I have seen this done with MTB but not recommended for the faint hearted... then again using 80PSI to bead a road bike is good for a heart attack when it finally decides to bead...
I'm not a jumpy person but it still gets the heckles up.
What tool brand would you recommend?
Aprendizado para mim na parte de furo do pneu ; vedação com tubless = OBRIGADO
New pads don’t just get installed. You must push the pistons back in to make room for the increased thickness of the new pads.
Re: plugging a flat. Back in my day, plugging car flats, after getting the plug in we'd burn the plug tag to the surface of the tire (tyre?). Is that a no no for MTB tire repairs? (imagine all that w/o breaking a nail, how classy is that?!)
I only have one gear that is causing me problems, up and downshifting to the 6th gear. The rest is shifting crisp, what can it be? Is the cog itself worn out?
My bike was doing something like this. It would shift up into the gear just fine, but then have problems shifting down into it. The other gears worked fine. I tracked down the issue to internal friction. There was enough friction in the cables that the derailleur didn't have enough spring force to fully settle down into the shift. Replacing the front shifter housing helped a lot, but didn't completely cure the issue. The rear housing was actually in quite good condition. One thing I do know is that Shimano modified their derailleurs in the '90s to reduce their compatibility with Gripshift (it probably helps them sell more cable and housing too). What I did was I bought a small compression spring from the hardware store, and installed it between the cable clamp and cable stop on the rear derailleur. It helps boost the spring force on the derailleur's parallelogram linkage, and was all I need to get my shifting working fine again.
Awesome.
Could someone help me… can I run my gear cable to the rear mech housed all the way? My cables run so awkward on my bike I was hoping I could house it all the way, my bad if it’s a stupid question lol
Yes you can, all new bikes are like that, and much better for muddy conditions too..👍
Can you still ride tubeless even if you have a small ding in the rim?
If it's not leaking then it's all good bro, but try to make sure it's mostly smooth.
My rear disc sounds like 30 mice are chewing when i hit the breaks, wonder hwat that could be? Its not contaminated by anything so it not the squeal, it just sounds like small rodents chewing... so weird
It can probably be contamination.
You can clean the pads with alcohol and sandpaper, and clean the rotor with a paper or a rag and alcohol, this should help.
If you use a bike just occasionally it can also happen, but in this case it should vanish if the brake has been used a couple of times.
Especially the rear brake is jeopardized by contamination if sprays are used for chain lubrication. The best thing is to avoid the usage of oil spray anywhere near disc brakes at all.
@@simonm1447 Hey Simon, thanks for the tip, yeh i thought about that too but havent had the time. I think i ran my brakes really warm on a decent and have glazed the pads maybe?
@@martinhagen2913 Hard to say. On my MTB my disc brakes (Resin pads, MT200s with BS01) ) get quite hot from time to time too, but the pads never glazed, even if the front rotor started to become brown and blue. It's more the opposite, the brake force even got better after they got hot.
If they should be glazed the sand paper should make them fine again.
Is it making a sort of a grinding sound? My brakes did that just after I washed my bike. I just uploaded a video the other day on to resolve that issue.
Great information, just a shame it was filmed in the dark.
👍🏼👍🏼
Don't know any of that stuff been riding for years
It killed me a little inside when she touched the brake pad braking surface.
As long as you dont have grease or oil on your fingers you will be fine. Natural skin oils wont contaminate your brakes no matter how many manufacturers tell you it will
Might aswell delete the old video so it doesnt look like a "rinse and repeat" video because its pretty much the same video lol.
Sure, those tipps didnt evolve...because the mechanical problems didnt either...but it is still a different script. And some people who are new to the channel or mtb will appreciate this "reboot" in their actual feed
That's all they do with all there videos, multiple videos of the same, just redone over and over again.
It's a shit channel anyways, all the gmbn lot make me embarrassed to be British, these lot are a joke
If you were a newbie looking for tips... do you look at years old ones, or recent ones (Even when this video would work 20 years ago with perhaps only the tubeless on a mountain bike being a bit futuristic.
I watched it right through and i was servicing my Magura disks in 2000... and suffering the same alignment issues when I made my own caliper mount for the Hayes on the back.
But back the I had to ask people or read a book, or figure it out for myself.
Watch this space when ABS becomes the norm for E-Bikes.
Charlie can you tell me why my planets are dead
You're probably not watering your planets enough,
or leaving them orbiting the sun too close during the day.