vegadomis32988 not to mention the 16 hrs for the varnish to dry completely. 🙄Still has to wait. I was waiting for the 3rd and final table to come out. lol
Thank you so much for this informative and straight-to-the-point video. I've been searching for someone with Bruce's succinct style in teaching and demonstrating. I'm going to start my small wood craft project now!
this is a big help, i work at home depot in paint dept and i get asked ao much about this. ill definatly be telling them what i learned today and refer them to this video
Marco Acosta I just wanted to say I think this is awesome that you improve your skills and knowledge to pass on to customers. It really helps and is appreciated when asking for assistance at the stores.
This was a great video--I ended up staining two small IKEA dressers for my girls based on the instructions here, and they both turned out looking really nice.
I found a couple nice solid wood chairs on the side of the road, and to learn the best way to stain them, I looked up a how to from This Old House. The boys always do an awesome job at explaining everything in a quick video
Two finish coats to protect. However, the more you use, the deeper the finish. Some projects I've used up to 8 coats. Looks like it is covered in glass and wears like iron. And yes, with dry times, takes at least a week to finish a project.
Water base poly works very well over oil based stain. You just have to let the stain really dry. I wait a week. Varathane Matt poly works great with a foam brush. Looks like you sprayed it on.
This application also applies to floors that have been sanded. When applying the stain remember to keep a wet edge and be able to reach it when wiping it off. Nice video . Thanks
Great video, helped me out a lot. Glad I tried it out on the bottom of my kitchen cart first. I just went ahead and poured it over and used a roller. Didn't work out, it was darker than I wanted it. Second time around I went with the rag method and came out great!
I live in a 1960 built home and the powder room door is hollow. I recently took off the paint with Goof Off, sanded the door on all 4 sides. I'm not sure if I want to repaint it or go with a stain. I'm kind of leary on using stain only bc I tried it before and my son had to fix my goof ups. Plus this is a door...larger piece of wood. What would you advise? I just don't want to have to goof up on this project and have to start over. Thank you, and I really enjoy watching your videos. Very helpful and informative!
It seems no matter what brush is used always leaves brush strokes in the stain as well in the clear coating I thought trying the polyurithane spray method though hear it dries as fast as it goes on causing dry spotting.
I have a question about sanding/ staining engineered lumber. I have four PSL plus Parallam beams and would really appreciate any suggestions about sandpaper grit / stain
All stain left on top will soak in if you buff as you go. I’m currently doing black walnut verneer 3/4 particle board in ebony stain. Fun fact, particle board with double side verneer is cheaper than the 4x16 of verneer that is used per particle board. $70usd per 4x8 sheet of wood vs. the $80 per 2 sheetspree glued to 4x8!particle board
I just bought a palm sander and a pack of 220 grit sandpaper to stain an old nightstand that I built years ago. Do I have to buy all different grits, or can I get away with just using the 220 grit?
My daughter took off some of my table top finish with pancake syrup(long story) My teen daughter spray painted it with the same color hoping I wouldn’t notice but it’s too light... What would someone suggest I do ? Stain? Or? I don’t wanna have to sand it and redo.. It’s a expresso wood color
If it's a small area, then you could get one of those stain markers or wiping stain cloths (they've already got the stain soaked in them) in the same or similar color from Lowes and do a tiny patch test. I'm not an expert so I'd wait for one other suggestion before you make any purchases. I hope you find this helpful!
THANKS - GREAT VIDEO BUT I HAVE A QUESTION!? What if the wood conditioner was laid down on floor support beams as well as the underside of the floor they support, one year ago? I want to add colour to the beams and the under-floor but I don't know if I can? help!!
I’ve sanded it my desk, used a pre-wood conditioner and then stained my desk. It’s been about five days. Now that I’m looking at it, I want it to have another coat. I have not protected with any polyurethane yet. Since it’s been five days, do I have to use pre-wood conditioner before staining it again.? Will it ruin the wood if I just stain it without using conditioner? Or maybe has it been too long between stain coats and shouldn’t I try to stain another coat? I guess what I’m really looking for is how long can you wait between coats of stain? Thank you
Hello good morning love Ur videos and wanted to ask u something im kinda new to this and i been asked to do a project at work since se have an 8 step procedure to finish a bed se are trying to set up the same procedure for the bed rails wich includes toner, sealer,wipe Stalin,sealer,sanding,dry brush,sealer, topcoat Is there Any way i could substitute Any of those steps or material to make the process smaller meaning shorter im trying to do it in half the steps thank u and have a great day!!!
Louis Holland im for sure lacquer finish cant go back and forth cause it dry much much faster than poly but i assume all finish should be 1 stroke because going back and forth can see brush lines/marks
So I followed this process and my project came out beautifully except for one problem. I noticed fingerprints after I stained the wood. How do I fix this and avoid it in the future?
what would be the best way to apply polyurethane and stain for a newbie? I used a lambswool stain applicator on my counters once and I dont know if i got as even a look as id want and had a bunch of uneven spots with the clearcoat thanks in advance
Stain: old t-shirt or similar material, Polyurethane: bristle brush (don't use the sponge brushes), Combination stain/polyurethane (like PolyShades by Minwax): bristle brush
Ive used the Minwax pre-stain and always with varying results... As you can see they still got blotching, save yourself a ton of time and money, look into the Charles Neil Anti Blotching pre color conditioner.
Hello, will this process work when refinishing cabinets? Also, does the type of wood matter? I'm pretty sure i have a typical cabinet setup, what i mean by that is the type of wood used. Thanks.
I shake my poly to stir it, but when you open it, blow all the bubbles to the side of the can, or you can pour the amount you want to use into another container and if you do it slow all the bubbles will stay in the can.
Not sure why you would ever shake it. There is literally no added benefit to shaking vs stirring, but there is the added negative of having bubbles from shaking.
+Andres “CadazzReborned” Cadungog Poly repels moisture, stain doesn't. If you use it on outside wood it needs maintenance. That is it needs to be reapplied once a year or so or the protection fades.
For total noobs like me, it would be nice to post in the description above links to the materials used in vid. Mainly I want to know the type of brushes and rags to use. Also what are the advantages/disadvantages to go water base vs oil base.
Christopher Dillman water based dries faster, which can be a negative because you have to work quicker. (same idea behind glue-sometimes fast drying is bad). Water based has less chemicals, and the rags you use can't spontaneously combust. Water based poly generally doesn't change the color of the wood. Oil based will usually amber or yellow light woods à little bit. I have found it much easier to find a full range of oil based products at home centers. You can almost always find water based poly, but I don't recall water stain. If you use water based anything, you need to wet the wood after sanding, let the grain rise, then lightly sand again before any products go on. Otherwise the water based product will raise the grain and you'll have a bad surface. As for durability I oil based poly is harder but not by a lot. Not enough to get excited about. Last, mineral spirits is the solvent for oil based finish, water is the solvent for water based.
So i finished a table with poly but now I want to round over the edges (should have done it before the paint) Anyone have any advice on doing this? Should I sand off the edge and restain it, or will that look horrible? Thanks
I've read that with the stain, it should be stirred rather than shaken because shaking can introduce air bubbles. What's your take on that? It seems that bubbles in stain don't matter too much. It's going to spread and soak anyway. If anything, I'd be more concerned that the shaking could expose the stain to more oxygen, slightly hardening the drying oil, but I don't know if that's significant. I'm pretty inexperienced in staining. Is it necessary to mix/stir the stain every few minutes while applying?
I've been having a problem with finish ,using stain with poly waterbased,ordered 4 cans of dark walnut for some reason there's grit i the stain,I thought the first time I stained a piece of this end table that maybe I didn't clean all the dust off, so I removed the stain cleaned and vacuum the piece and even wiped it with a brand new rag ,same thing grit all through stain,removed stain again now thi king it's the bush maybe picking up dust from thin air? Bought a new brush and started again putting stain on with new brush ,clean surface and there's the grit,what the hell is going on, HELP!
The polyurethane i used i think is dry and is making streak marks from the paint brush bristles. It has now dried overnight and i know have streaks in my finish. Do you think i should sand it all down and buy new polyurethane and apply that from scratch? or can i just sand it down and re-apply it? as of now i have a lot of surface to sand. so if possible i want to use a orbital sander. would that be a big problem if i was careful?
I Think overview about Coral End Table Finish: Aviator Grey same same , and see entertainmentfurniture.vhosted.biz/coral-end-table-finish-aviator-grey-912-cat01.html The cellular, organic patterns of the Arktura Coral line extend the full length of the form, providing a visually compelling experience. Inspired by nature It online shopping is on a steep trajectory these days in terms of both sales volume and traffic. People are finding it comfortable shopping from their homes rather than going out and wasting a lot of time and money. Searching for Coral End Table Finish: Aviator Grey is basically fun on net as you grow numerous options to select. If you are looking for Coral End Table Finish: Aviator Grey
I was told you CAN put water-based Polyurethane over an oil stain, as long as you first wipe the dried & stained wood with a rag & light spray of 50/50 water & alcohol. My project came out OK, only a long-term test will reveal if this was OK.
+Nathan Jones I did used the same method on teak doors but, i used varathane gun stock it was dark Dark brown so i had to stop...I need to know what stain matches golden yellow brownish which is beautiful teak wood...i dont want to change the colour..i need natural stains for the teak wood
There are lots of different options for finishes. If you stick with Minwax, there's Clear Satin, which still has a bit of sheen, but there are other finishes that wouldn't have any. You could also go with a wax finish, if the piece of furniture isn't something that's regularly interacted with and if it won't be exposed to moisture.
One of the best shows ever
This video taught me a lot in 5 mins. Very informative 😀
I was thinking the same thing! Very informative! 🤝
"I don't have 8 hours to wait so I had time to make a second table that was already stained and dried after 8 hours" hahaha gotta love TV magic!
vegadomis32988 not to mention the 16 hrs for the varnish to dry completely. 🙄Still has to wait. I was waiting for the 3rd and final table to come out. lol
Lmao
I was just about to write the same thing and I saw your comment. :-)
Thank you so much for this informative and straight-to-the-point video. I've been searching for someone with Bruce's succinct style in teaching and demonstrating. I'm going to start my small wood craft project now!
Amazing! Straight to the point and solid information
1:18 you missed a spot :) Good advice actually. I'm working on some wood and searched on youtube for advice. This is just what I needed. Thanks.
Thank you for the quick yet informative video.
this is a big help, i work at home depot in paint dept and i get asked ao much about this. ill definatly be telling them what i learned today and refer them to this video
Marco Acosta I just wanted to say I think this is awesome that you improve your skills and knowledge to pass on to customers. It really helps and is appreciated when asking for assistance at the stores.
This was a great video--I ended up staining two small IKEA dressers for my girls based on the instructions here, and they both turned out looking really nice.
Thank you guys for showing me how to use stain.
Graet video. Precise, informative and not preoccupied with plugging brand names. Thanks for clearing up some of my confusion.
petestrat07
.
This was extremely helpful. Thank you.
I found a couple nice solid wood chairs on the side of the road, and to learn the best way to stain them, I looked up a how to from This Old House. The boys always do an awesome job at explaining everything in a quick video
Great job!👌🏻
thank you MR.Bruce
Very informative and right to the point.
Two finish coats to protect. However, the more you use, the deeper the finish. Some projects I've used up to 8 coats. Looks like it is covered in glass and wears like iron. And yes, with dry times, takes at least a week to finish a project.
Thanks Bruce
What I've learned from this, is that I should always wait until the last minute to do things.
I work best under pressure 😂
Water base poly works very well over oil based stain. You just have to let the stain really dry. I wait a week. Varathane Matt poly works great with a foam brush. Looks like you sprayed it on.
This application also applies to floors that have been sanded. When applying the stain remember to keep a wet edge and be able to reach it when wiping it off. Nice video . Thanks
Love the video I going to try this on a dresser I’m redoing
Most helpful video!!!
Great video, helped me out a lot. Glad I tried it out on the bottom of my kitchen cart first. I just went ahead and poured it over and used a roller. Didn't work out, it was darker than I wanted it. Second time around I went with the rag method and came out great!
Good vid. should of watch before I did this the first time. Live and learn.
Thank you so much for this video. I now feel confident to start my project. 👍
you all are my go to guys in the know. thanks
Grace Serena Christie d Dr ess making
This very much helped. I was using sponge brushes and would have to sand it after the second coat, thanks for the tip!
Great video thanks for sharing
I live in a 1960 built home and the powder room door is hollow. I recently took off the paint with Goof Off, sanded the door on all 4 sides. I'm not sure if I want to repaint it or go with a stain. I'm kind of leary on using stain only bc I tried it before and my son had to fix my goof ups. Plus this is a door...larger piece of wood. What would you advise? I just don't want to have to goof up on this project and have to start over. Thank you, and I really enjoy watching your videos. Very helpful and informative!
Great advice and video!! Thank you
Great video. Thanks
when he missed that tiny spot with the wood conditioner it triggered my ocd
Same lol
All of us
Garnett Miller dres St dress making
8
L6ress making
0,,I HAVE BEEN THERE AREifted CoolCats
Very helpful. Keep it up!
Thanks for the methods sir
Thanks for excellent video
can you do a you tube on applying stain, then applying linseed oil and the times to wait before application
what will you recommend for new yellow cedar deck?
Love this video! Great job guys!
nice explanation great job what kind of color is it sorry to ask im learning. about wood
I didn’t do it but watch it though. You good at that. 😝
It seems no matter what brush is used always leaves brush strokes in the stain as well in the clear coating I thought trying the polyurithane spray method though hear it dries as fast as it goes on causing dry spotting.
Hey everyone there's no law saying you have to stain first - you can just poly and enjoy the natural wood colour if you like.
This is one thing I have yet to master properly is staining. I sometimes get blotches in areas so I think I'll use pre-stain conditioner next time.
I use gel stains which work great
Wonderful
I have a question about sanding/ staining engineered lumber. I have four PSL plus Parallam beams and would really appreciate any suggestions about sandpaper grit / stain
All stain left on top will soak in if you buff as you go. I’m currently doing black walnut verneer 3/4 particle board in ebony stain. Fun fact, particle board with double side verneer is cheaper than the 4x16 of verneer that is used per particle board. $70usd per 4x8 sheet of wood vs. the $80 per 2 sheetspree glued to 4x8!particle board
I just bought a palm sander and a pack of 220 grit sandpaper to stain an old nightstand that I built years ago. Do I have to buy all different grits, or can I get away with just using the 220 grit?
I sanded the poly but think I may have sanded some of the stain off. What to do and how can I tell?
If im doing a cabinet, should I stain one face at a time? Or try to do it all at once? Im using a oil based stain and oil uterine
My daughter took off some of my table top finish with pancake syrup(long story) My teen daughter spray painted it with the same color hoping I wouldn’t notice but it’s too light... What would someone suggest I do ? Stain? Or? I don’t wanna have to sand it and redo.. It’s a expresso wood color
If it's a small area, then you could get one of those stain markers or wiping stain cloths (they've already got the stain soaked in them) in the same or similar color from Lowes and do a tiny patch test. I'm not an expert so I'd wait for one other suggestion before you make any purchases. I hope you find this helpful!
THANKS - GREAT VIDEO BUT I HAVE A QUESTION!? What if the wood conditioner was laid down on floor support beams as well as the underside of the floor they support, one year ago? I want to add colour to the beams and the under-floor but I don't know if I can? help!!
I’ve sanded it my desk, used a pre-wood conditioner and then stained my desk. It’s been about five days. Now that I’m looking at it, I want it to have another coat. I have not protected with any polyurethane yet. Since it’s been five days, do I have to use pre-wood conditioner before staining it again.? Will it ruin the wood if I just stain it without using conditioner? Or maybe has it been too long between stain coats and shouldn’t I try to stain another coat? I guess what I’m really looking for is how long can you wait between coats of stain? Thank you
I have doubt please give me clarify if I use mimwax stain ofter I will use mimwax water Base spar urithene what will happen?
Good video! How long should one wait before removing the excess stain?
Do you seal or condition? Sanding sealer that is.
When do you seal vs condition?
Do you use both?
Hmmmm, should have watched this video before starting my project.
This Old House?!
Ah man, I grew up on this show. I miss it!
it's still on
AtrumNoxProductios
AtrumNoxProductions great work
Absolutely love this video.......was going to do that liquid epoxy until I saw this video
Hello good morning love Ur videos and wanted to ask u something im kinda new to this and i been asked to do a project at work since se have an 8 step procedure to finish a bed se are trying to set up the same procedure for the bed rails wich includes toner, sealer,wipe Stalin,sealer,sanding,dry brush,sealer, topcoat Is there Any way i could substitute Any of those steps or material to make the process smaller meaning shorter im trying to do it in half the steps thank u and have a great day!!!
I was told you can't put Poly on like. Paint one clean stroke if you miss a spot try get it on next coat.
Louis Holland im for sure lacquer finish cant go back and forth cause it dry much much faster than poly but i assume all finish should be 1 stroke because going back and forth can see brush lines/marks
So I followed this process and my project came out beautifully except for one problem. I noticed fingerprints after I stained the wood. How do I fix this and avoid it in the future?
I wish i knew the color of the finish. I liked the color it had before you whip it off the table.
Gun stock. He says it around 2 minutes in.
i love this show and i am a kid keep up the work
Nice explanation, Thank you.
what would be the best way to apply polyurethane and stain for a newbie? I used a lambswool stain applicator on my counters once and I dont know if i got as even a look as id want and had a bunch of uneven spots with the clearcoat thanks in advance
Stain: old t-shirt or similar material, Polyurethane: bristle brush (don't use the sponge brushes), Combination stain/polyurethane (like PolyShades by Minwax): bristle brush
How do you polish the finish ? Thanks
Ive used the Minwax pre-stain and always with varying results... As you can see they still got blotching, save yourself a ton of time and money, look into the Charles Neil Anti Blotching pre color conditioner.
Every "expert" contradicts the others with literally everything.
Very few crafts have clearly agreed upon methods. However, this is all pretty normal advice. Watch a bunch, try a few you like, see what happens
Are matching chairs done the same way? I'm refinishing a dining table and chairs.
Hello, will this process work when refinishing cabinets? Also, does the type of wood matter? I'm pretty sure i have a typical cabinet setup, what i mean by that is the type of wood used. Thanks.
I shake my poly to stir it, but when you open it, blow all the bubbles to the side of the can, or you can pour the amount you want to use into another container and if you do it slow all the bubbles will stay in the can.
Not sure why you would ever shake it. There is literally no added benefit to shaking vs stirring, but there is the added negative of having bubbles from shaking.
+Neon Lemon because it would be one less tool to clean or sometimes ppl are too lazy to grab a stick, etc.
+Neon Lemon What a Bridget Jones moment!:)))
Hi. How do I varnish MDF, Light oak colour?
is it ok to use for outdoor furniture?
does it repel rain or moisture?
+Andres “CadazzReborned” Cadungog Poly repels moisture, stain doesn't. If you use it on outside wood it needs maintenance. That is it needs to be reapplied once a year or so or the protection fades.
cool...thanks for the info buddy...
Used this method on mahogany for my guitar body and what a great turn out! Thanks Bruce!
God i have not these guys in years.
Hi! Could you please comment when to choose oil based vs water based conditioner/stain/finish ?
Thank you.
Greg
Do you sand in between coats of stain and when you're done? And do you sand in between coats of polyurethane and when you're done?
For total noobs like me, it would be nice to post in the description above links to the materials used in vid. Mainly I want to know the type of brushes and rags to use.
Also what are the advantages/disadvantages to go water base vs oil base.
Christopher Dillman water based dries faster, which can be a negative because you have to work quicker. (same idea behind glue-sometimes fast drying is bad).
Water based has less chemicals, and the rags you use can't spontaneously combust.
Water based poly generally doesn't change the color of the wood. Oil based will usually amber or yellow light woods à little bit.
I have found it much easier to find a full range of oil based products at home centers. You can almost always find water based poly, but I don't recall water stain.
If you use water based anything, you need to wet the wood after sanding, let the grain rise, then lightly sand again before any products go on. Otherwise the water based product will raise the grain and you'll have a bad surface.
As for durability I oil based poly is harder but not by a lot. Not enough to get excited about.
Last, mineral spirits is the solvent for oil based finish, water is the solvent for water based.
Hi, can I use natural oil on top of the stained wood? to protect
Not for wood already sealed by polyurethane.
Which paint type you have used to stain the wood????
So i finished a table with poly but now I want to round over the edges (should have done it before the paint) Anyone have any advice on doing this? Should I sand off the edge and restain it, or will that look horrible? Thanks
I've read that with the stain, it should be stirred rather than shaken because shaking can introduce air bubbles. What's your take on that? It seems that bubbles in stain don't matter too much. It's going to spread and soak anyway. If anything, I'd be more concerned that the shaking could expose the stain to more oxygen, slightly hardening the drying oil, but I don't know if that's significant.
I'm pretty inexperienced in staining. Is it necessary to mix/stir the stain every few minutes while applying?
I've been having a problem with finish ,using stain with poly waterbased,ordered 4 cans of dark walnut for some reason there's grit i the stain,I thought the first time I stained a piece of this end table that maybe I didn't clean all the dust off, so I removed the stain cleaned and vacuum the piece and even wiped it with a brand new rag ,same thing grit all through stain,removed stain again now thi king it's the bush maybe picking up dust from thin air? Bought a new brush and started again putting stain on with new brush ,clean surface and there's the grit,what the hell is going on, HELP!
The polyurethane i used i think is dry and is making streak marks from the paint brush bristles. It has now dried overnight and i know have streaks in my finish.
Do you think i should sand it all down and buy new polyurethane and apply that from scratch?
or can i just sand it down and re-apply it?
as of now i have a lot of surface to sand. so if possible i want to use a orbital sander. would that be a big problem if i was careful?
What did you do?
I have a question.... after applying 2nd cost of POLY do I have to light sand it again with 220?? Thank you so much!!
yeah, always give polyurethane a light sanding after it dries to knock the bubbles out
Do you sand after the SECOND coat of polyurethane?
Did you thin the stain before you painted it on because yours looked like it was still wet when you wiped it off.
Hi what color stain should I use a redwood mantel. Thanks
I Think overview about Coral End Table Finish: Aviator Grey same same , and see entertainmentfurniture.vhosted.biz/coral-end-table-finish-aviator-grey-912-cat01.html The cellular, organic patterns of the Arktura Coral line extend the full length of the form, providing a visually compelling experience. Inspired by nature It online shopping is on a steep trajectory these days in terms of both sales volume and traffic. People are finding it comfortable shopping from their homes rather than going out and wasting a lot of time and money. Searching for Coral End Table Finish: Aviator Grey is basically fun on net as you grow numerous options to select. If you are looking for Coral End Table Finish: Aviator Grey
Would it be less error prone to use a aerosol polyurethane if you don't have a sprayer?
4injvstice for me it caused more bubbles, I liked smoothing it out with a brush
I was told you CAN put water-based Polyurethane over an oil stain, as long as you first wipe the dried & stained wood with a rag & light spray of 50/50 water & alcohol. My project came out OK, only a long-term test will reveal if this was OK.
Hello All,
at the end of the process, can you also add a coat of Epoxy resin?
Bruce is the main! Conditioning the wood? 2 coats of poly. Things I would have never known.
I know this channel is targeted to homeowners but polyurethane is just about the last topcoat I would use.
What about staining after you filled in holes with wood puddy?
Can we use the same method on TEAK WOOD and other woods....Please suggest
Yeah any wood is fine with this.
Thank u Nathan..GBU
+Nathan Jones I did used the same method on teak doors but, i used varathane gun stock it was dark Dark brown so i had to stop...I need to know what stain matches golden yellow brownish which is beautiful teak wood...i dont want to change the colour..i need natural stains for the teak wood
what if i want a flat finish after stain not a glossy wet look. how do i go about that
There are lots of different options for finishes. If you stick with Minwax, there's Clear Satin, which still has a bit of sheen, but there are other finishes that wouldn't have any. You could also go with a wax finish, if the piece of furniture isn't something that's regularly interacted with and if it won't be exposed to moisture.
How to finish butcher block counter tops
im planning to stain a dining table that already have stained before-is there any problem for doing that?