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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2024
- Here's a non-pro how-to on my 2008 Toyota Tundra Front Shock Replacement:
Removal of spindle from upper control arm
Removal of stabilizer bar link from stabilizer bar
Removal of strut/shock from vehicle
Replacement of shock using same spring
Replacement of strut/shock back into vehicle
Reattaching stabilizer bar link to lower control arm
Reattaching upper control arm to spindle
Tools Used: Socket set, rubber mallet, spring compressors, large flathead screwdriver, needlenose pliers, standard pliers, small hydraulic jack, magnetic parts holder, impact wrench, air compressor, crescent wrench, 3 inch 3-jaw puller, full set of long-handled metric wrenches, short length of nylon rope, impact socket set (metric), standard socket set (metric), 1/2 inch breaker bar, floor jack, 2 jackstands, 1 14mm short wrench, loosening agent, 1 small tie wrap, wheel chocks, gloves.
Time: 1.75 hours per side including wheel removal.
Tools required shown at the end
I give you hella props bro. I’m about to install the front and rear shocks on my 2012 Toyota Tundra.... thank you very much for taking the time to film the video. PS no one is perfect 👌 on all the names of the parts on the vehicles specially if you are not an every day mechanic 👨🔧 lololololol..... Watching you all the way from Las Vegas 🤙🏽🤙🏽
Thanks for the kind words! I hope this is helpful to you. Good luck!
Great video. I just did my 2012 Tundra while starting and stopping this video all the way to the end. Thanks for the help.
When I changed the upper control arms and ball joints on a similar half ton truck suspension (Expedition / F-150), the key was keeping a floor jack under the working side. I just kept raising and lowering the suspension assembly to relieve tension at each stage. The nuts loosened MUCH more easily and greatly reduced danger of breaking anything or hurting my back. It also took me only a fourth of the time that the first job had taken without this floor jack testing. Stay safe.
It's like watching a horror movie very,very scary. Good that everything came out good. Really helps to be safe and know how to work with vehicles. Safty first. Good video brotherhood 👍🏽⚡🔥💥💯
This was helpful! I want to avoid touching the lower control arm
I like your video and it is helping me understand how to replace the shocks. Thank you for this tutorial. 👍
I'm changing out the struts on my 07 Tundra and I couldn't find anything on TH-cam then I found this video. This helped a lot! Thanks man. I was struggling to detach the upper control arm but now I know a need a puller.
You're welcome! Glad you found it helpful.
ElectricPulse100 I found out that beside the four screws on top and one at the bottom the only thing you need to take off are two bolts that are attach to the disk at the bottom of we're the arm that is holding the strut to take off and you should be able to remove it easier
The 2 bolts holding the spindle onto the lower control arm? That would certainly be easier than taking off the spindle from the upper control arm and the stabillizer bar link. Thanks for the tip for next time!
I am only trying to put shims in on top of the strut.. any tips on how to loosen only the top?
I am no expert but I can't imagine a way to only loosen the top without dropping the spindle or lower control arm first. If it were me, I'd try the spindle first then, if necessary, the lower control arm.
I learned a lot of things Not to Do !
Good job. Getting it done
I noticed that you were able to compress the spring without putting the compressor safety pins in the locked position. I was having that issue with the springs on my 2003 Toyota Sequoia. But I see it can be done. Just be careful and take your time. Thanks!
Good job trying to document and be helpful for all the DYI folks. The cringe-worthy part were you stretch the cable & brake-line, and also putting stress on the rack/pinion arm to try and get that shock out. Hopefully your break lines don't have issues afterwards. The one step I would recommend (not sure if the clearance would allow) is to put that spring compressor on it before disconnecting the top spindle, that way it won't stretch out all the way once it's disconnected. All you really need is a couple inches so if the clamps could help out a little you would have to drop the A-arm too much.
“Never ever point this at anything you wouldn’t want destroyed, just in case the spring clamps fail or...”
Proceeds to point at face upon reassembly lol
Yeah, dumb move on my part for sure. You still need to check the alignment after reassembly, but it certainly doesn't require staring straight at it.
Chris Oroshiba It all worked out in the end though. I came here to see if maybe my strut and coil assembly had anything to do with my truck squeaking on every tiny bump/to learn how to replace this if that was the issue... looked under my Tundra and noticed some new looking metal on the linkage to the stabilizer bar (from wear and tear), sprayer some oil on it, problem solved... 2 years of squeeking torture, endless searching on forums, multiple visits to the dealership, watching videos and THAT WAS THE PROBLEM?! That’s an inherent flaw in the design that the linkage isn’t in a captured system/in a boot. How the hell am I the only one to have come across this? Lol anyway. Thanks for the vid man.
When I did mine, I put the spring compressor on first and went to town compressing the spring, Then the strut will freely press inward. Good video though.
Great tip! I just could not get the spring compressors installed while the struts were mounted.
Every YT video doesn't have this tip...
Great video and very helpful particularly with the removal of upper control arm using the jaw puller. How may miles did you have on the old shocks before replacing them?
Thanks! I should've replaced them at ~100K mark, which is when I was feeling the vehicle needed it, but due to work, etc., finally replaced them at ~120K.
Who's spring compressor did you use? I can't find one to fit my 4x4 '11 doublecab TRD with the Bilstein shocks.
I used the MacPherson strut spring compressors from Harbort Freight
Thank you for that info.
Interesting, the Harbor Freight manual says it fits wire diameter up to 5/8", my Tundra springs are 3/4".
These say they handle 3/4: mobiledistributorsupply.com/697-garage-and-workshop-supplies/1459-steering-suspension/1493-strut-coil-spring-compressors/27036-macpherson-strut-spring-compressor-oem.html
Bruh!!! Ya doing very well Pro👊
Just did the work on my 08 Tundra put all new upper control arms lower control arms hub and shocks
Great video for the DIY kind of guys !!
Thanks! Apparently it's not the best way to do this, but hopefully you found some insight into one way to get it done.
Yes i came to that realization. The nuts on the bottom of the strut and the little linkage would not come loose. I actually snapped one of the closed ends on my 18 mm wrench.
I was going to see if Rancho has 9000 adjustable shocks for the 2011 Sequoia. Those shocks have been great on sports cars plus Ford Explorers. Yes those are potentially dangerous McPherson Struts. If you can compress the springs on the vehicle, it will save considerable work. Jack the lower control arm as high as possible, install the springs, lower the jack and remove the strut, in theory anyway.
its easier if you take the two big bolts out of the lower ball joint instead of the upper joint this lets you push down on the lower control arm
Thanks for the tip. I'll try that next time. Managing the spindle when it's off the upper control arm was certainly a pain.
great video... but please guys be very careful with the spring compressor tool. if that thing fail and hit u. that will be the end of u. I have seen somebody lose a foot.
EKK - good advice!
Thanks for Sharing this video on TH-cam this video it help alot
Lower control arm will drop low enough to get shock in without messing with uppercontrol arm or spindle
Yep. Learned that after doing this. Thanks for the tip.
Use a large screwdriver or pry-bar to compress the shock up and out of that cradle.
What size are your tires
all you have to use is a strut compressor and compress the spring and it will come right out
Thanks. I tried getting the compressors in. I must not be good at it. I couldn't get both on right to compress it safely.
my abs came on and 4 hi keeps blinking and traction light is on???
cinder block was turned on its side. not the proper way to use it as blocking.
Good call. Thanks for the tip.
Fuck that. That's like space ship shit. I'm going to the Barrio.
I change one and 3 day later it fold
Scary watching you work. PS try sitting.
sitting up not flat on the ground.
This is the dumb hard way ,,, no need to disconect spindle,,,, u disconnect sway bar , loosen lower control arm on frame and disconnect lower control arm on rotor side
Uta tanto video para nada