Love this Mike. This looks so familiar because I have done this exact process with various old hot rods throughout the years (including 2 40 coupes). Thanks, Al
Congrats on getting the engine to turn! I suggest you pull the intake manifold off to check for sludge and rodent nesting. If it's decent inside, give it an oil drain, fill the crankcase with 1 gallon of diesel fuel and add 1 qt of 30 weight oil. If you can get it to start later with this mix in the crankcase, let it idle only. Give it 3 to 5 minutes idle time to get warm, and that diesel/oil mix will liquefy any sludge in the engine so you can drain it out. New oil after that, straight 30 weight.
Great Video and an excellent step- by-step tutorial on automotive resurrection. Definitely cool to keep that one around for a while. When I saw it was 12v with a Negative Ground i was cheering for you! The motor looked big and the “modern” alternator and wires were great signs. Fingers crossed for Ran When Parked!
You were very lucky to have found that car. i have always loved the look of the 1940 front end(GRILLE) . Can't wait to here the motor pop off for the first time.
The sound of flathead with dual's and glass packs is awesome. I owned several Flatheads and you are at a good starting point. Nice Aluminum heads, nice intake, and a slightly easier to work on 8BA. Hopefully, the block doesn't have any cracks in it. You'll know LOL. I never changed mine from 6volt positive ground but that's just me. Good chance that mechanical temp. gauge will work. I found them to be an upgrade from the OEM dual electric units. Can't wait to watch your progress Kevin Mahoney
I am liking your videos. for a state that is so car crazy there seems to be a lack of u-tubers doing things with cars. they mostly seem to be from the rust-belt and I am so getting tired at looking cars that are so rotten that we wouldn't even consider messing with them. but it is what it is and if that is all they have to work with one has to really admire what they are capable of doing with them.
I watch many of the rust belt car TH-camrs. They do have the advantage of having plenty of space to store and work on their projects. Here in Southern California space comes at a premium price, so that might be why there are fewer channels from here.
@@MikeFrankovich being from Fresno, Ca. I know where you are coming from. my first race car shop was about 1,100. sq ft.and I paid $400. per month. My next shop 5 yrs later was 2,500 sq ft and $1,500. per month. (I also did some restorations there a 68 Mustang FB) If you don't have a home with a 2 car garage what are you going to do?
So couple of years ago I bought a 1950 F1 with that same engine and the intake amongst the valves was totally full of mouse nest and then I bought another flat head engine 8ba got it running on the ground and its intake was totally full of mouse nest so if you haven’t yet I hope this helps you out or if anybody else is working on a old 8ba take the intake off and look inside of it and you can also loosen stuck valves easily that way and you will not be able to see through the carburetor intake you have to physically take the whole intake off which is actually a piece of cake Enjoy Alan from IdAho
Just found and sub'd to your channel. I have a 40 Deluxe Tudor Sedan that I purchased +- 1985 from a guy near Merced Ca. Always "more important" things going on so the car is STILL a project. Too involved to get into here. Let's just say, it's finally getting some attention. I will certainly be interested in seeing your progress. I would be all excited about and very anxious to hear that motor!! The body on mine is VERY solid with absolutely no rust but the motor came in pieces. Have a 327 SBC all sitting in it now.
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The car has been upgraded for sure since it has a 49 to 53 8BA engine in it and a Delco 12 volt generator on it.
He didn’t buy it. I also told another friend who’s president of the local Buick club. It’s still up for sale as far as I know. It’s very rough and was close to the fiberglass boat that caught on fire. Hopefully it gets saved.
Hi Mke. Cool car and a great find. That little “block off plate” from your trunk finds is for the transmission. You will see an open observation hole on top of the trans near the bell housing and allows you to check the pressure plate, for example. PS a good question for the former owner is about the transmission. I don’t think Ford offered a floor shift in 1940, you might have a 1939 top loader trans. Edit: researched this, and (as always) info is sketchy and highly debated. One resource I found says Ford built 513 of the EARLY 1940s with floor shift. If yours is one of those, trans number stamped above the pressure plate inspection cover should match the s/n on the frame near the steering box. PSS I think your carbs are Holley 94s, Model 59. I highly recommend dickshotrodcarbs.com for parts and expertise. Dick will rebuild them for you, or sell you the parts and answer questions. Great guy with deep expertise.
You are correct about the transmission. ‘40 was the first year for the column shift Fords and it was common for hot rodders to install a ‘39 trans in their cars.. Swapping the ‘40 steering wheel for the ‘39 “banjo” wheel was often done as well. I suspect that the open radiator was drained to prevent the block from freezing and cracking the block which flatheads were famous for. I look forward to seeing your progress as you get the old girl road worthy once again.
I can see on the column where the shifter was, so the trans was definitely swapped out. I got the carb kits already and I’m going to tackle them myself unless they’re very gunked up.
Old rat droppings get soggy and sticky if they get wet. Wanted to vacuum the engine first. I was careful not to get anything down into the cylinders that wasn’t Marvel Mystery Oil.
Love this Mike. This looks so familiar because I have done this exact process with various old hot rods throughout the years (including 2 40 coupes).
Thanks,
Al
Very cool Mike, you are going to have soooooooooo much fun with the '40. I know your glad the engine turned! 👍👍👍
Congrats on getting the engine to turn! I suggest you pull the intake manifold off to check for sludge and rodent nesting. If it's decent inside, give it an oil drain, fill the crankcase with 1 gallon of diesel fuel and add 1 qt of 30 weight oil. If you can get it to start later with this mix in the crankcase, let it idle only. Give it 3 to 5 minutes idle time to get warm, and that diesel/oil mix will liquefy any sludge in the engine so you can drain it out. New oil after that, straight 30 weight.
Great Video and an excellent step- by-step tutorial on automotive resurrection. Definitely cool to keep that one around for a while. When I saw it was 12v with a Negative Ground i was cheering for you! The motor looked big and the “modern” alternator and wires were great signs. Fingers crossed for Ran When Parked!
Thanks. It still has generator and not an alternator. Just ordered a ton of parts today so there will be more updates in the near future.
Great find and super project.The 40 Fords have always been my favorite car and I have a 40 Standard coupe. Thanks for the videos.
Love the videos, fun channel to watch! Awesome car!
Thanks
You were very lucky to have found that car. i have always loved the look of the 1940 front end(GRILLE) . Can't wait to here the motor pop off for the first time.
You have no idea how jealous I am .
The sound of flathead with dual's and glass packs is awesome. I owned several Flatheads and you are at a good starting point. Nice Aluminum heads, nice intake, and a slightly easier to work on 8BA. Hopefully, the block doesn't have any cracks in it. You'll know LOL. I never changed mine from 6volt positive ground but that's just me. Good chance that mechanical temp. gauge will work. I found them to be an upgrade from the OEM dual electric units. Can't wait to watch your progress
Kevin Mahoney
Thanks. I’ve heard it can be tough to find a flathead without cracks. Let’s hope this is a good one.
@@MikeFrankovich They're out there
I am liking your videos. for a state that is so car crazy there seems to be a lack of u-tubers doing things with cars. they mostly seem to be from the rust-belt and I am so getting tired at looking cars that are so rotten that we wouldn't even consider messing with them. but it is what it is and if that is all they have to work with one has to really admire what they are capable of doing with them.
I watch many of the rust belt car TH-camrs. They do have the advantage of having plenty of space to store and work on their projects. Here in Southern California space comes at a premium price, so that might be why there are fewer channels from here.
@@MikeFrankovich being from Fresno, Ca. I know where you are coming from. my first race car shop was about 1,100. sq ft.and I paid $400. per month. My next shop 5 yrs later was 2,500 sq ft and $1,500. per month. (I also did some restorations there a 68 Mustang FB) If you don't have a home with a 2 car garage what are you going to do?
That mirror looks like the ones on my 63Nova SS .
awesome car! subbed! cant wait to see if the engine starts up
My buddy wants to come help get it going, so I’m waiting until he gets a free day.
@@MikeFrankovich right on! hope it starts up 🙂
So couple of years ago I bought a 1950 F1 with that same engine and the intake amongst the valves was totally full of mouse nest and then I bought another flat head engine 8ba got it running on the ground and its intake was totally full of mouse nest so if you haven’t yet I hope this helps you out or if anybody else is working on a old 8ba take the intake off and look inside of it and you can also loosen stuck valves easily that way and you will not be able to see through the carburetor intake you have to physically take the whole intake off which is actually a piece of cake
Enjoy Alan from IdAho
Them heads u got are really cool and hard to find
So I'm starting my 1st restoration restoration project on a 1955 Chrysler Imperial
Just found and sub'd to your channel. I have a 40 Deluxe Tudor Sedan that I purchased +- 1985 from a guy near Merced Ca. Always "more important" things going on so the car is STILL a project. Too involved to get into here. Let's just say, it's finally getting some attention. I will certainly be interested in seeing your progress. I would be all excited about and very anxious to hear that motor!! The body on mine is VERY solid with absolutely no rust but the motor came in pieces. Have a 327 SBC all sitting in it now.
The car has been upgraded for sure since it has a 49 to 53 8BA engine in it and a Delco 12 volt generator on it.
Did your friend buy the 1927 Buick convertible that was next to this where you found it? Would like to see the video of that one.
He didn’t buy it. I also told another friend who’s president of the local Buick club. It’s still up for sale as far as I know. It’s very rough and was close to the fiberglass boat that caught on fire. Hopefully it gets saved.
Is there a reason you didn’t pressure wash before pulling plugs etc?
Hi Mke. Cool car and a great find. That little “block off plate” from your trunk finds is for the transmission. You will see an open observation hole on top of the trans near the bell housing and allows you to check the pressure plate, for example.
PS a good question for the former owner is about the transmission. I don’t think Ford offered a floor shift in 1940, you might have a 1939 top loader trans. Edit: researched this, and (as always) info is sketchy and highly debated. One resource I found says Ford built 513 of the EARLY 1940s with floor shift. If yours is one of those, trans number stamped above the pressure plate inspection cover should match the s/n on the frame near the steering box. PSS I think your carbs are Holley 94s, Model 59. I highly recommend dickshotrodcarbs.com for parts and expertise. Dick will rebuild them for you, or sell you the parts and answer questions. Great guy with deep expertise.
You are correct about the transmission. ‘40 was the first year for the column shift Fords and it was common for hot rodders to install a ‘39 trans in their cars.. Swapping the ‘40 steering wheel for the ‘39 “banjo” wheel was often done as well. I suspect that the open radiator was drained to prevent the block from freezing and cracking the block which flatheads were famous for. I look forward to seeing your progress as you get the old girl road worthy once again.
I can see on the column where the shifter was, so the trans was definitely swapped out. I got the carb kits already and I’m going to tackle them myself unless they’re very gunked up.
if the motor isnt frozen or blown up should be easy to start
😗
Why didn't you clean the motor at the car wash ??? Rat shit in the cylinders will not help.
Old rat droppings get soggy and sticky if they get wet. Wanted to vacuum the engine first. I was careful not to get anything down into the cylinders that wasn’t Marvel Mystery Oil.