The Germans will never be able to match the thrill of using a Harbor freight tool! The raw fear as you move your hands back away from the gathering heat and the "Jack in the box" anticipation of what could be coming at you at any time. Sparks , parts, flames. It's an extreme sport for the poor. Waiting too long to bring your tool to failure is emasculating.
...aaaand thats where you are wrong. We got the 7 € specials from the Baumarkt with now name on them at all. For those, the failure mode usually is "All of it, at once".
@@noobgamer-qb3gq Aldi sells cheapo tools in Germany? That's hilarious. Here in Murica' Aldi is where you go to buy cheap food from brands you've never heard of lol. They even have off brand fake craft beer.
I'm not even a home gamer and I'm definitely not a professional I just watch these videos because the they're so god damn interesting and this guy is hilarious
I'm not much of a metalworking guy (I'm one of those sadists who enjoys manipulating tree carcasses), but I love AvE's videos. The dude's equal parts interesting and hilarious. I've definitely learned a lot about metal, engineering, electronics, geology, and what makes something super skookum just from watching his stuff.
I'm with you. I help my buddy do some renovation work here and there, but I don't do it on a weekly basis. But I just love to see how this stuff is built and have it explained by someone who knows what the hell they are talking about who is also hilarious.
+AvE I used to work at a sintering plant. If you feel like maybe mentioning that these sintered parts are pressed, removed from the mold and then cooked, that'd be cool. I bet a lot of people who watch your channel may be under the impression that the parts are cooked while under pressure which simply isn't the case. Also some parts go through a sizing press after they've been cooked to further meet very stringent specs before leaving the plant. We are talking presses made in Germany that put down over a million pounds of force on a part that is maybe 6-7 square inches of surface area.
In high vibration environments crimps are more common than tinned multi strand. The reason is the vibration will cause the wire to fatigue at the solder joint since the solder is solid. On aircraft we never tinned, always crimped.
There's a reason why wires aren't tinned - the tin acts as a liquid and slowly changes the shape of a connection so when it was originally tight it becomes loose and prone to electrical malfunction over time. So the lack of tin on the wires is actually a good thing.
This guy is FRIGGIN Greeaat !! He's detail oriented, highly intelligent, seriously knowledgeable, funny as fuck, and extremely informative. He knows his stuff. Even if you don't like tools, manufacturing standards and processes, his verbiage and videos are really enjoyable.
That guard attachment design is how they got rid of an inch of thickness so it can go and get those tight areas that need to be polished. And as I see it a genius idea too. simple and effective. Definitely a longer lasting way to do that, and tool-less shroud removal is a time saver. I hope more power tools will have features like that.
I found AvE about a month ago and this has become a staple in my life. I have to watch one at least one a week. My wife watched the DeWalt grinder one with me and she was laughing so hard from your interesting wording of things. Keep it up you got my attention.
AvE, not sure if you read the comments from old videos, but I think you shouldn't latch on the crown gear as much as you do. In a 2 gear setup, the pinion is always the critical piece, its whats going to fail. That's why its generally made with a higher quality process/material. Having the crown made as good as the pinion is overkill.
Hey AvE, Polymer Technology Master Engineer from Germany here: There are a few more efficient ways to vulcanize the rubber as putting it into an autoclave. The Rubber gets Pre-Mixed at a processing factory and the cable manufacturer buys that as premade strips. Those get fed into an extruder where the twisted cable runs trough a quill die and the rubber gets pressed around that. For the Vulcanisation there are various processes. The Autoclave is usually pretty inefficient because you can only run that batchwise, I think they would use either steam (or in asia Radiation) Pipes, where the cables run through continuously under pressure, or a Molten Salt Bath to Vulcanize that. Since that says 105°C, it is either Natural Rubber, or EPDM (EPDM is more likely, since it has a higher resistance to weather, UV and Ozone influences)
You're Welcome, always happy to share some knowledge! Haven't heard about the molten Lead version yet, but that sure as hell sounds expensive and complicated
It's advised almost universally to never mechanically clamp something that is pre-soldered/tinned. In fact in most jurisdictions (Australia, UK, EU, Canada etc) it is illegal to do such in mains electricity installations. There's a few reasons, the main one is that the tin/solder has unacceptable metallurgical creep. Others are things like tin-whiskers, and oxidation.
I think AvE is referring to actual tinned wire along the entire length, not a soldering process that would be done on the end of the wire. AvE is correct that most shipboard cable will be tinned copper. This does not mean that it was soldered, the individual wire strands are tinned for the entire length of the cable before being insulated in the manufacturing process. This prevents the green growth of death that happens inside of many conductors in harsh environments. I've seen wire be black and corroded many feet in underneath the insulation, I would assume through capillary action.
No critique about the technical points you mentioned, but you can't compare this grinder pricewise to a "normal" (i. e. not pancake) one and then say it's too expensive. Half the money is going into the flat design of the "WEF 9-125 Quick" you have, which is 291€ when I check the manufacturer's list price. The better specced "WEV 10-125 Quick" (a non pancake grinder) that's a little bit more powerful, has adjustable speed and a mechanical safety clutch costs 172€ as opposed to 291€, so substantially less. (if you don't care about the constant speed control that both offer/adjustable speed that the WEV offers, you can also go for the W 9-125 Quick which literally is half the price of the WEF). You can even mount the gear box in 90° increments to convert it to left handed operation ;) . The electronic block does a little bit more than you give it credit for. It switches the grinder off, if you get the disc stuck, tries to keep the RPM constant under load, prevents the grinder to spin up after power loss if the switch is still engaged and has a softstart so it's really easy to start up one handed (btw. how do you use a rat tail grinder one handed? I guess that's the reason why almost all 125mm angle grinders here in Europe come with that thumb switch).
Great video man. Yeah that open-cell foam looks out of place. The trim pots on the electronics are probably for adjusting the "Constantmatic" feature of this particular grinder which is their marketing term for a grinder that maintains a constant rpm even under load. This is probably part of the overload feature you mentioned. Looking forward to your "testing."
It's an air filter, the air is drawn in on that side and exhausted on the other. Good thinking on Metabo's part. Air coming in is always cold and it won't be affected by the motor heat.
Forged/ground/lapped gears, beefy non-plastic connections to your brushes, no-nonsense warnings "Everyone that uses this tool will die. 100% Guaranteed.", guards and safety interlocks that ship and bill separately, full every-single-part exploded schematics free, crucial 'this will break first' parts available at local hardware, plastics that don't immediately decompose in random cutting fluids for parts that have to be plastic, and last but not least: No dead tree carcasses!!!
We use the 6" Metabo angle grinders with abrasive cut-off wheels for doing commercial and industrial sheet metal work. It is one of the best tools I have ever used.
I know the little circular thing on the brushes is to back up a small spring that pops out a little non conductive doinger that stops the motor from getting power. I have rebuilt some of the older metabo grinders.
When I started working as a millwright our shop had nothing but metabo grinders, all the guy swear they are the best. I have worked here for a few years and have yet to see one actually stop working 19 millwrights and so far 0 failures.
It's great when you take these apart, but I salivate when you take apart the chicom shit. Everyone knows that a $300 grinder will at least be okay, but with something cheap from china you have 0 idea what could be lurking within.
note: thermoset's do not melt (you said unlike thermoset plastic these do not melt) . There are thermoplastics, and thermosets. Thermoplastics melt at elevated temperature, thermosets will degrade and then burn, but will not melt.
Michael 1. I think that would sell. Except for in the state of California where " 'men' has been shown to cause cancer." Ron Perlman in a tight white sweater and cargo pants would sell there though.
the cable comes from the Zhongshan Rifeng Electric Cable Co.,Ltd. Guangfeng Gongye Ave, Zhongshan, Guangdong, China METABO have two manufacturing plants Nürtingen and Shanghai (China). makes you wonder if the grinders come from Prc and the truth be out now found this on a british site (tool stop) What this appears to mean is that Metabo not only design and innovate with stereotypical German fastidiousness, they also apply that same mind-set to each element that goes into your Metabo power tools. So, the motor housing, the gear boxes, all of the aluminium, metal and copper bits that turn your drill bit, your grinding disk or spin your saw blade are designed, engineered and manufactured in Germany, Nürtingen. At the Metabo plant. Only then are the component parts sent to their Chinese plant for assembly. What we're trying to say is, Metabo power tools are extremely well made. And that's because 80% of all their machines are still produced in Germany to their exacting design, manufacturing and assembly standards. The other 20% are assembled in their Shanghai factory which utilises the local labour force, but is controlled by German Engineers. In some instances German made parts are even shipped over to the Shanghai factory for assembly, crazy as it might sound, this gives you some idea as to the investment in quality that is being made here.
Howdy, I spent my working years as a Millwright in a Wire and Cable manufacture in Ontario. We had 3 CV lines ( constant vulcanization) to manufacture the rubber cable you were taking about. The rubber came raw in strips that was fed into an extruder that encased the twisted three conductor wire. The wire paid off from gigantic spools and ran down a 300 psi steam tube and turned around on a pulley inside of an autoclave. It then returned to the "takeup spool" under water (to cool). The wire emerged to an accumulator ( allows the constant motion while spools were changed) . Worked there 23 years. That's how we made wire.
I think it'd be awesome if you could make a "FRANKENGRINDER" Take all the good bits from the grinders you dissassemble and examine and make a bullet-proof one. With all the best bits, Top of the range grease, powercords, hobbed gears, bearings, ect........
just a note on the brushes, there is a plastic button inside the brush that pushes out when it gets to a certain point to stop commutation. Recently replaced mine on my metabo and i was surpised it was there.
Inside the brushes on Metabo and Makita they have a little brass button on a spring (that little copper indicator at the top). Once you hit the wear point of the brushes, it shuts the machine down so you cant kill it completely. Point of failure on most metabo machines is the upper / lower output shaft bearings, head side motor bearing, brushes, Marquardt switch on machines that run those old marquardt push fit jobs.. Most metabo machines have shim stacks to adjust the ring / pinion contact; surprised that machine did not.
I'll start by saying this is a great review overall. Now the traditional youtube complaining: Why'd you buy a specialty flat-head grinder and then review it like a normal grinder? The normal Metabos are half that price, bringing it into a much more affordable market position. That said, I'm off to go find a vice.
You have great videos, but I've gotta really give my props to your intermissions, there are a lot of great things I've seen from those. Like that gorgeous tool cabinet from a few days ago.
I cannot get over how well done your reviews are.... The last thing I need is a grinder.. but, I've watched, 3 or 4 video reviews on them!!... (wow!!) lol Keep your stick on the ice...
very true I kept out at work a hft grinder and a almost worn out Bosch grinder they were stolen no biggy one was cheap and the other was about to go into orbit
I forgot to mention that you are by far the Best Tool Review Guy on youtube! I generally regard myself as pretty damn smart, and have worked with and around a lot of very intelligent people, but I will have to say I've never seen anyone with your vast knowledge of Manufacturing & Engineering Processes, every type of Material known to man complete with chemical & molecular breakdowns. I trust your opinion on Tools more than anyone on here. Keep up the good work, and keep it fucking focused. Lol
That was my guess, that open cell foam is used in a lot of filters out there, if there was a mechanical hold down for the cords it would be much stiffer.
I think the foam may also be an indication of use. Basically you send the tool on for repair, they see that foam has not degraded, and they know that they have a legitimate RMA to deal with. At least that is the only reason I could seen for having such a pathetic bit of foam in a High end tool. Not to say that the tool should fail easily, but it might make someones life easier.
As someone who does FDA stainless welding and polishing and uses air grinders all day in the shop(Souix, Dotco, Desouter), when doing field service work and only have 120v electric available, Metabo grinders are the smoothest operating, best feeling tools I've used. We have Makita, Milwaukee, and DeWalt, but the Metabo grinders and Dynafiles are miles ahead when doing precision polishing. I also have a 5" Makita rat tail in my personal shop, but it's been relegated to cut off wheel duty since I picked up a variable speed Metabo 5".
my buddies dad is been running his metabo for close to 20 years now and we beat the hell out of that poor thing. We have had it in the derbie garage for around 15 years and it still goes to work with the old man 5 days a week
Nice job! I've got the cheapo harbor fraught grinder, and after finding myself using it a ton, i was looking into what a good grinder I should buy. Looks like the makita may be on the top of my list
I have owned this model grinder for about almost 2 years now. And used full time at work. The disk stop deal fell out within 4 months of use. Kept falling out until I lost it. Very frustrating because that exposed the gear housing to the elements and now I'm replacing the gear of the head side. The one on the motor side looks fine. But I'm finding out that it's not as easy as I would have thought.
Well it's not completely natural rubber, it's been vulcanized. It will only split and decay 10 years down the road if it's left in the sun the whole time and never used. Moving around the rubber as you use the tool over time actually helps it 'self heal' from weather effects or so I've read that car tires will go much longer without weather cracking if they are regularly driven on. And they are vulcanized rubber as well.
Depending on the additives in the rubber they don't always need pressure to cure. Right type of rubber can just use steam. We call it an atmospheric cure in my line of work. Another way to cure some types of rubber is hot water where water is used for temperature and pressure (may be used for cable manufacturing using extrusion process). Several hundred different types of rubber and several additives for each type.
Some women admit to prefer longer tools for their grinding. These Flachkopf-Winkelschleifer are made to get into tight spots, where a ordinary angle grinder could not fit. I only have the short one, but mine is close to 20 years old and still going strong. I've found it in the scrap heap about two years back. Happily, Metabo parts are still readily available here in Europe - The red switch, too. Good luck with it.
In Germany Metabo is the prosumer stuff you pick up at the home improvement store and even there Makita has the better rep. If you have a business to run that depends on these tools Hilti and FEIN is your brands of choice.
I've seen plenty of businesses running on Ryobi or similar. Not a good choice for an iron worker 50 stories up but in a shop where you can just grab another one from the rack while it cools off it's no biggie. Sure the nice tools come with warranty, but getting them to actually warranty them is usually more difficult then going to the local skum bags and buying 10 more of said item.
TMoD7007 yea, I was surprised as well. The motors where decent, didn’t overheat, but they where geared a little lower, another reason I wasn’t impressed in the end, makes grinding more of a chore
My company I work for bought 3 regular metabo grinders 4-5 years ago. Maybe longer. All are still going. I build water trucks for them. Grinders in shop are dewalt and metabo. when i am turning an old cement truck into a water truck my grinder is one of the metabos. I been using the same one a real long time. Keep it in my area of shop. As welder i do tons of grinding for prep. If any of my grinders at home die. They will be replaced with a metabo. I have a man-killer old sioux massive grinder that might be older than me. I think it will outlive me and go to new owner at my estate auction. lol
How much of the extra cost do you figure is from the lovejoy coupling and low profile head (vs the other standard grinders)? Not to question your analysis of the stamped part, but so long as the bottom surface is flat, what does it matter? The relative machining of the aluminium gland end is all that counts. Also, the loose connections at the mains seem really confusing...is there something they are doing that isn't readily apparent? could the wire be connected solidly to the spade inside an outer sleeve for strain relief? they obviously know how to make a solid connection, and it seems like a strange place to pinch pennies. BTW, what happened to the Flir? would be interesting to see if those really do get hotter than a $2 pistol... thanks again for your great vids.
It is indeed a very unfair comparison. A similar "normal" grinder (the W 9-125 Quick) costs 147€ (manufacturer's list price incl. tax) while the WEF 9-125 Quick costs 291€ so almost exactly twice as much. About the wire: I guess it's because the power cable will be the first thing to be changed after someone cut through it. And even if a connector is moving around a little it doesn't mean that there isn't a large contact surface area. Typically these "loose" spade connectors have a latch inside that makes prevents them to come off on their own.
I've got one of these that is about 20 years old. Switch is on top, it's about as ergonomic as a stump but it just goes and goes. Frickin bullet-proof and having a fastening nut that doesn't require a wrench is a big plus in my books.
First of all, thank you for taking the time to make these videos mate, really appreciate it. I can honestly say that AvE is probably my favourite TH-cam Channel at the moment. Quality vids and great comedy. A man's man channel! But more importantly... christ does this guy know his shit! He's probably forgotten more than I know!
Still dont get why they choose the Metrology of the Past even if they have to use the Metric system to get there Units precisely enough and the thread stuff well ... China is further than the US in Metrology
I didn't realise that this video was 4 months old. I just came across this channel about a few weeks ago and think they're great! I've had a fair bit of industrial use with Metabo grinders (and Makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee and some Hitachi). Each had their pluses and minuses but I have to say that I'm not a great fan of the Metabo BECAUSE of the Quick Protect magicery. all it seams to do is get in the way of working. Also, as the grinder gets older, it seams to kick in sooner and sooner. I've also had a few Metabos where the cooling impeller becomes detached and no longer spins when the grinder is used. No airflow = hot grinder, quickly! Milwaukee are easily the most powerful I've used and, mechanically, the longest lasting (ok, on par with Makita) but the stupid, flimsy way the guards are attached kills the head to quickly. Milwaukee also have some magicery in them to that feeds more power to them when they slow down under load, which is why they're so powerful, BUT this makes them run really hot. I've burned out a couple of their 6" x 13amp paddle (ugh, hate paddle grinders too!) grinders, even though they're supposed to have thermal overload protection? Anyway, great videos, love them, and your terminology to describe stuff. Thank you!
Looks pretty disappointing for the price. I bought my makita GA5030 for 40 euros, love that grinder works every day, small in the hand, very pleasant to use.
I don't know why I took so long to subscribe, as I've been watching your videos for ever, but man your comic-relief is hands down some of THE BEST on youtube.
I've used Makita, Dewalt, and Metabo. I use my grinders hard on a daily basis. My first Metabo lasted 7 years. The Dewalt that replaced it lasted about 6 weeks, and I hated the feel and sound of the Makita and pawned it off on a new guy and took the Metabo he was issued. When it came time to replace my POS grinder I use out in the garage, I bought a Metabo. Don't regret it one bit.
Love using my Motabo grinder. Fabricating and can grab and start it up one handed. Hold my metal in the other while modifying it to fit exactly. Use Cubitron II grinding pads and champher up to 2 inch steel like it has been machined. Several of my friends that fabricate use them as well.
Jackson Gray My educated guess is that because the solder is ductile and not elastic you take away the wire's elasticity, which, when bolted in, lets the solder flow away from the clamping-force. Therefore the resistance rises and arcing can eventually occur.
Tinned stranded wire in a vibrating environment (when the wire isn't 100% rigidly secured) is a sure way to have a broken wire at some point. Also solder has some very strong "creep" (in short: deforming slowly under stress) so any clamped connection will become loose. Crimping/clamping bare copper forms a way better and reliable connection than a tinned/soldered a wire.
The thing is, that these Metabo grinders are just about the same price as a Makita or Bosch Professional (few slightly different model for slightly different prices but all around 60 to 70€) here in Germany. Fein is about 100€, a cheap Hilti is 90, an expensive one 300€ and around 25€ you get the cheap crap. So if youre looking at realistic prices, this thing is pretty much like all the other stuff, a little better or worse for 5 bucks more or less doesnt really matter to most people.
@17:00 notice that the casting on the head has recesses molded into it for the guard lock to lock into so that the attachment screws aren't the only thing absorbing the shock from the 200-metric-pound gorilla chucking the grinder across the floor at the end of the day...
Question for the master. What's your opinion of Hitachi tools. I was looking for an episode where you reviewed a Hitachi tool and I couldn't find one. I was wondering what effect Hitachi's purchase of Metabo has had on both companies.
Personal experience with metabo tools. Grinder and 1/2 ‘’ hammer drill. Switchs failed after 20 years. 10 years later. They still need new switches. Just got new cheaper tools as the work requirements changed. Good pro tools though. But mostly. Great videos Again Thanks Ave.
Crosslinked polymers are thermoset and cannot be (re)melted. Thermoplastics are the PP, PET, and PE families that can undergo process melting. I love the videos and the accuracy of the info. Keep them coming.
Oldest metabo I have is about 8 years old now - excentric sander- hear its bearings are going now but used it long and hard and never payed attention to the duty cycle rating the 150€ I put down for it has seen me finish what I started with it up to now with no complaints..
The first album I bought with money earned from potatoplucking and plowing with John Deere 2040. Nice to see you made a new career with boltr after the musicindustry went down. Loving your vids. Keep up the chooch 😃
Ave, Great Video as usual. I own several Metabo Grinders, however I do not.own that Pancake version. I haven't had a failure yet, and I've been beating them up daily for 3 years Welding/Fabrication work.
17:00 is it possibly clever where the force is translated into the depressions in the metal casting, and the screws just keep the plastic in place. All the forces on that plate from a drop are going to be lateral as the guard tries to rotate, and those lateral forces will go into the tool body via those detents not via the screws.
Mayhaps - but I looked at it with my thinking cap on -- Any vertical forces wouldn't translate to the detent holder because the collet around the grinder axle would take that force. The only thing translated to the detent is lateral force, and that lateral force goes into those depressions in the main housing. All forces on the shield are converted to rotation by the slot it's mounted on.
Also, that's pretty hefty plastic, not likely to break easily. With the way it's designed and nested into the housing, the only way to get any leverage on those screws is with the guard off and hitting it towards the spindle.
The detents on the shield clip give it a physical rigidity that makes the two screws that hold it in place, not so important when the tool is dropped. The pressure created is dissipated through the recessed areas of the part into the housing, not so much at the screw area of the part. At least that is how I see it.
I used to sell Metabo power tools 40 years ago for Draper tools which are still the largest tool distributors in the U.K. , they were the best tools on the market then and still are today. Do a head to head with any other make and see for yourself. By the way all your vids are fantastic in as much as you entertain and educate at the same time, excellent sense of humour as well 😂
fuck. i love your videos. but sometimes can you just say " its a good un" or "its a bad un" at the start? so i can order the tool online , and then watch your video while my wife beats me for spending money? two birds, you know?
I don't think that would really be the best way to do it. because with the downfalls it has, some things are better than the makita. it just depends on how you use it.
wow. rude. I would never. if i start an AvE video - I finish it. I bet youre the type to stop lending a hand before the jobs done too. The nerve of some people!
Because hardly anything shakes out that way. Including this video. Buying advice is "depends on what you want it for." Recommendations ranged from $20 to $250.
The part at 13:20. It is actually a spade connector. That's why it is loose. And based on some of my experience. It is actually a failure point on my Bosch grinder. The grinder will suddenly stop working. Spend an hour to look inside, and the usual problem is the connector.
We do LOTS of hand grinding slag off of parts that come off our plasma tables. We switched to this brand of grinders on a trial in a few areas. I really liked the way the lock worked compared to other brands as it is much easier to lock. Sadly the extra cost of these did not have a good enough return value in the life of the tool. That said there is value in the operator experience using the tool which was appreciated by the guys who spend a good portion of the day operation the tool. So overall if you factor in the ease of use and possible repetitive stress injuries from using hand grinders daily I do recommend the extra expense of this brand. So for home use, not worth but in a factory environment the cost savings on possible injuries from long term use I highly recommend at least giving these a trial run.
The Germans will never be able to match the thrill of using a Harbor freight tool! The raw fear as you move your hands back away from the gathering heat and the "Jack in the box" anticipation of what could be coming at you at any time. Sparks , parts, flames. It's an extreme sport for the poor. Waiting too long to bring your tool to failure is emasculating.
...aaaand thats where you are wrong. We got the 7 € specials from the Baumarkt with now name on them at all. For those, the failure mode usually is "All of it, at once".
You know we have Lidl and Aldi where they sell dirt cheap tools
Nothing in the world quite as satisfyingly chintzy as picking up your power tools at a German grocery mart :D
@@noobgamer-qb3gq Aldi sells cheapo tools in Germany? That's hilarious. Here in Murica' Aldi is where you go to buy cheap food from brands you've never heard of lol. They even have off brand fake craft beer.
That is too fookin funnay!
I just imagine conference room at Metabo full of suits watching this with someone translating, it would be hilarious.
"Did he just refer to our high quality cable as the 'pokey bit?' 200 lbs gorilla?"
was ist 'skookum'?
Expect to hear from my lawyers.... they love your BOLTRs too!
This Old Tony what?
This Old Tony is the intermission.
This Old Tony I b. I b. B b. Bob. Bob bb. B. B
Sorry I sneezed and it was typing for me
This old Tony what's up man. You got a great channel too.
Metabo Angle Grinder’s gear drive, uses Elkalub (Chemie-Tecknik) brand, GLG 16/N00 “Special Grease”
It's a Lithium ‘Soap’ Grease with a Dropping Point minimum of 170 degrees Centigrade.
I'm not even a home gamer and I'm definitely not a professional I just watch these videos because the they're so god damn interesting and this guy is hilarious
hilarious he is
Same. Also you can learn a lil sumsum.
I'm not much of a metalworking guy (I'm one of those sadists who enjoys manipulating tree carcasses), but I love AvE's videos. The dude's equal parts interesting and hilarious. I've definitely learned a lot about metal, engineering, electronics, geology, and what makes something super skookum just from watching his stuff.
I'm with you. I help my buddy do some renovation work here and there, but I don't do it on a weekly basis. But I just love to see how this stuff is built and have it explained by someone who knows what the hell they are talking about who is also hilarious.
I'm going to log his quips for future use, if I can remember them all.
Like a German virgin - gudenteit! LOL
+AvE I used to work at a sintering plant. If you feel like maybe mentioning that these sintered parts are pressed, removed from the mold and then cooked, that'd be cool. I bet a lot of people who watch your channel may be under the impression that the parts are cooked while under pressure which simply isn't the case. Also some parts go through a sizing press after they've been cooked to further meet very stringent specs before leaving the plant. We are talking presses made in Germany that put down over a million pounds of force on a part that is maybe 6-7 square inches of surface area.
You are correct. Until reading this I was under the impression it worked that way. Thanks for the clarificatipn
In high vibration environments crimps are more common than tinned multi strand. The reason is the vibration will cause the wire to fatigue at the solder joint since the solder is solid. On aircraft we never tinned, always crimped.
There's a reason why wires aren't tinned - the tin acts as a liquid and slowly changes the shape of a connection so when it was originally tight it becomes loose and prone to electrical malfunction over time. So the lack of tin on the wires is actually a good thing.
@@ehsnils I think Ave meant individually tin plated strands, not the use of solder joints at the ends.
Hmm, I most definitely do 100s of solders on aircraft (777 mainly)
Tin is not the same as soldering...
This guy is FRIGGIN Greeaat !! He's detail oriented, highly intelligent, seriously knowledgeable, funny as fuck, and extremely informative. He knows his stuff. Even if you don't like tools, manufacturing standards and processes, his verbiage and videos are really enjoyable.
That guard attachment design is how they got rid of an inch of thickness so it can go and get those tight areas that need to be polished. And as I see it a genius idea too. simple and effective. Definitely a longer lasting way to do that, and tool-less shroud removal is a time saver. I hope more power tools will have features like that.
The hand finish joke was very well thought out!
It was the climax of the video
I found AvE about a month ago and this has become a staple in my life. I have to watch one at least one a week. My wife watched the DeWalt grinder one with me and she was laughing so hard from your interesting wording of things. Keep it up you got my attention.
AvE, not sure if you read the comments from old videos, but I think you shouldn't latch on the crown gear as much as you do. In a 2 gear setup, the pinion is always the critical piece, its whats going to fail. That's why its generally made with a higher quality process/material. Having the crown made as good as the pinion is overkill.
Did you know the METABO is an acronym for "Metallbohrmaschine" which translates directly into metal drilling machine?
as opposed to Haribo....grüssle
Didn’t know that.
In pc science we used a call tracking system. RTFM.
Stands for read the fucking manual.
Hey AvE,
Polymer Technology Master Engineer from Germany here:
There are a few more efficient ways to vulcanize the rubber as putting it into an autoclave.
The Rubber gets Pre-Mixed at a processing factory and the cable manufacturer buys that as premade strips.
Those get fed into an extruder where the twisted cable runs trough a quill die and the rubber gets pressed around that.
For the Vulcanisation there are various processes. The Autoclave is usually pretty inefficient because you can only run that batchwise, I think they would use either steam (or in asia Radiation) Pipes, where the cables run through continuously under pressure, or a Molten Salt Bath to Vulcanize that.
Since that says 105°C, it is either Natural Rubber, or EPDM (EPDM is more likely, since it has a higher resistance to weather, UV and Ozone influences)
You're Welcome, always happy to share some knowledge!
Haven't heard about the molten Lead version yet, but that sure as hell sounds expensive and complicated
Tobias Brinke thank you for your elaboration,
It's advised almost universally to never mechanically clamp something that is pre-soldered/tinned. In fact in most jurisdictions (Australia, UK, EU, Canada etc) it is illegal to do such in mains electricity installations. There's a few reasons, the main one is that the tin/solder has unacceptable metallurgical creep. Others are things like tin-whiskers, and oxidation.
I think AvE is referring to actual tinned wire along the entire length, not a soldering process that would be done on the end of the wire. AvE is correct that most shipboard cable will be tinned copper. This does not mean that it was soldered, the individual wire strands are tinned for the entire length of the cable before being insulated in the manufacturing process. This prevents the green growth of death that happens inside of many conductors in harsh environments. I've seen wire be black and corroded many feet in underneath the insulation, I would assume through capillary action.
No critique about the technical points you mentioned, but you can't compare this grinder pricewise to a "normal" (i. e. not pancake) one and then say it's too expensive. Half the money is going into the flat design of the "WEF 9-125 Quick" you have, which is 291€ when I check the manufacturer's list price. The better specced "WEV 10-125 Quick" (a non pancake grinder) that's a little bit more powerful, has adjustable speed and a mechanical safety clutch costs 172€ as opposed to 291€, so substantially less. (if you don't care about the constant speed control that both offer/adjustable speed that the WEV offers, you can also go for the W 9-125 Quick which literally is half the price of the WEF). You can even mount the gear box in 90° increments to convert it to left handed operation ;) .
The electronic block does a little bit more than you give it credit for. It switches the grinder off, if you get the disc stuck, tries to keep the RPM constant under load, prevents the grinder to spin up after power loss if the switch is still engaged and has a softstart so it's really easy to start up one handed (btw. how do you use a rat tail grinder one handed? I guess that's the reason why almost all 125mm angle grinders here in Europe come with that thumb switch).
Not
How you use a rat tail grinder with one hand? Well.... you just do it. One hand holds the part you're grinding and the other one holds the grinder...
Great comment. But I've used my Milwaukee rat tail one handed many times.
superdau
Thanks for the info.
You need to get plenty of wrist exercises in if you want to use a rat tail one handed, but it can be done!
Great video man. Yeah that open-cell foam looks out of place. The trim pots on the electronics are probably for adjusting the "Constantmatic" feature of this particular grinder which is their marketing term for a grinder that maintains a constant rpm even under load. This is probably part of the overload feature you mentioned. Looking forward to your "testing."
The foam is there in the schematic. You can even buy it as a spare part (and it is used in severel metabo tools).
superdau
What is the part number for the foam? I may have been looking at the wrong model.
German Tool Reviews
344100790 "Einlage selbstklebend" ;)
It's an air filter, the air is drawn in on that side and exhausted on the other. Good thinking on Metabo's part. Air coming in is always cold and it won't be affected by the motor heat.
Yup you are right, I missed it.
This grinder comes from my town never have i been more proud xD
Ways to win AvE's heart: 1) Beer 2) Meats 3) Good snap action
Good snaption / snaptivity
And glass fiber reinforcement
Forged/ground/lapped gears, beefy non-plastic connections to your brushes, no-nonsense warnings "Everyone that uses this tool will die. 100% Guaranteed.", guards and safety interlocks that ship and bill separately, full every-single-part exploded schematics free, crucial 'this will break first' parts available at local hardware, plastics that don't immediately decompose in random cutting fluids for parts that have to be plastic, and last but not least: No dead tree carcasses!!!
All that is well and good, but it got to be STIFF. Who want a hand full of limp tool? 😲😵😞
@@shrikedecil Mrs. AvE, I presume.
We use the 6" Metabo angle grinders with abrasive cut-off wheels for doing commercial and industrial sheet metal work.
It is one of the best tools I have ever used.
Hilti is comparable
I know the little circular thing on the brushes is to back up a small spring that pops out a little non conductive doinger that stops the motor from getting power. I have rebuilt some of the older metabo grinders.
When I started working as a millwright our shop had nothing but metabo grinders, all the guy swear they are the best. I have worked here for a few years and have yet to see one actually stop working 19 millwrights and so far 0 failures.
It's great when you take these apart, but I salivate when you take apart the chicom shit. Everyone knows that a $300 grinder will at least be okay, but with something cheap from china you have 0 idea what could be lurking within.
This where this channel really shines! Love these break downs! Nothing like it ANYWHERE!!!
I've found that if you chug a few Labatt blues and take a few swigs of maple syrup everything he says makes perfect sense :D
I have an oscillating sanding machine from Metabo. My father bought it some time before 1965 and this machine still works well!!
The switch is made like that for easy replacement (had a metabo where the switch got nasty, ordered a replacement and just popped it in)
note: thermoset's do not melt (you said unlike thermoset plastic these do not melt) . There are thermoplastics, and thermosets. Thermoplastics melt at elevated temperature, thermosets will degrade and then burn, but will not melt.
Couldn't those of us who have the sense to stop BEFORE it goes full torch, call that degradation...melting?
+Michael 1. The sense? I rather enjoy letting the smoke out. You get this delightful whiff of electrified blueberries.
+Joe Clark Cancerberry. A new fragrance for men by Dewalkarri Noir.
*Ron Pearlman in a tight white sweater and cargopants*
Michael 1. I think that would sell. Except for in the state of California where " 'men' has been shown to cause cancer." Ron Perlman in a tight white sweater and cargo pants would sell there though.
Sounds like you've had this Ron Perlman fantasy for awhile :P
the cable comes from the Zhongshan Rifeng Electric Cable Co.,Ltd.
Guangfeng Gongye Ave, Zhongshan, Guangdong, China METABO have two manufacturing plants Nürtingen and Shanghai (China). makes you wonder if the grinders come from Prc and the truth be out now found this on a british site (tool stop) What this appears to mean is that Metabo not only design and innovate with stereotypical German fastidiousness, they also apply that same mind-set to each element that goes into your Metabo power tools.
So, the motor housing, the gear boxes, all of the aluminium, metal and copper bits that turn your drill bit, your grinding disk or spin your saw blade are designed, engineered and manufactured in Germany, Nürtingen. At the Metabo plant. Only then are the component parts sent to their Chinese plant for assembly.
What we're trying to say is, Metabo power tools are extremely well made.
And that's because 80% of all their machines are still produced in Germany to their exacting design, manufacturing and assembly standards. The other 20% are assembled in their Shanghai factory which utilises the local labour force, but is controlled by German Engineers.
In some instances German made parts are even shipped over to the Shanghai factory for assembly, crazy as it might sound, this gives you some idea as to the investment in quality that is being made here.
I've had this grinder for two years and love it
in the old days, tools were metal and used to get so damn hot you had to give them a break
Howdy,
I spent my working years as a Millwright in a Wire and Cable manufacture in Ontario.
We had 3 CV lines ( constant vulcanization) to manufacture the rubber cable you were taking about.
The rubber came raw in strips that was fed into an extruder that encased the twisted three conductor wire. The wire paid off from gigantic spools and ran down a 300 psi steam tube and turned around on a pulley inside of an autoclave. It then returned to the "takeup spool" under water (to cool). The wire emerged to an accumulator ( allows the constant motion while spools were changed) . Worked there 23 years. That's how we made wire.
I'm glad you're featuring ThisOldTony, one of my favorite youtubers for sure. Some real machining porn along with a good dose of humor.
The first 50 seconds of this boltr is raw absolute Ave in it's purest form. Love it
I think it'd be awesome if you could make a "FRANKENGRINDER" Take all the good bits from the grinders you dissassemble and examine and make a bullet-proof one. With all the best bits, Top of the range grease, powercords, hobbed gears, bearings, ect........
You would probably end up with a uglier than usual hilti
the 4 grinder teardowns are of my favorite videos of yours, and ive watched atleast 100. Good stuff!
just a note on the brushes, there is a plastic button inside the brush that pushes out when it gets to a certain point to stop commutation. Recently replaced mine on my metabo and i was surpised it was there.
Inside the brushes on Metabo and Makita they have a little brass button on a spring (that little copper indicator at the top). Once you hit the wear point of the brushes, it shuts the machine down so you cant kill it completely.
Point of failure on most metabo machines is the upper / lower output shaft bearings, head side motor bearing, brushes, Marquardt switch on machines that run those old marquardt push fit jobs.. Most metabo machines have shim stacks to adjust the ring / pinion contact; surprised that machine did not.
I'll start by saying this is a great review overall. Now the traditional youtube complaining:
Why'd you buy a specialty flat-head grinder and then review it like a normal grinder? The normal Metabos are half that price, bringing it into a much more affordable market position.
That said, I'm off to go find a vice.
You have great videos, but I've gotta really give my props to your intermissions, there are a lot of great things I've seen from those. Like that gorgeous tool cabinet from a few days ago.
11:20 the red dot is a seal for the glued in spring inside the brush to pull the brush away from the commutator when the brush is worn down!
Merlinkatamari same as festeringtool
Have 4 of the normal metabo grinders 2 years now at work all flap disc work still going perfectly I love them
I actually fall asleep to tonys vids. He's my Bob ross
Zendail there is an entire industry for that here on TH-cam. ASMR videos.
*raises an eyebrow and goes squinty eyed* Hmm...methinks we may be cousins...but I don't see a resemblance...
+zendell37 Did you play EQ back in the 2000s
Zendail
I don't know...I did a lot of things in the 2000's I can't quite remember...
Either way, unless you're a middle aged guy with a broke back who played video games all day i doubt its you :D
I cannot get over how well done your reviews are.... The last thing I need is a grinder.. but, I've watched, 3 or 4 video reviews on them!!... (wow!!) lol Keep your stick on the ice...
Good vid. Just by a case of horrible freight grinders and you don't have to cry when they are stolen
very true I kept out at work a hft grinder and a almost worn out Bosch grinder they were stolen no biggy one was cheap and the other was about to go into orbit
This is the most important point I consider when buying a tool, when you drop it off the ladder, how much pain will you feel.
I forgot to mention that you are by far the Best Tool Review Guy on youtube! I generally regard myself as pretty damn smart, and have worked with and around a lot of very intelligent people, but I will have to say I've never seen anyone with your vast knowledge of Manufacturing & Engineering Processes, every type of Material known to man complete with chemical & molecular breakdowns. I trust your opinion on Tools more than anyone on here. Keep up the good work, and keep it fucking focused. Lol
you got your ... what in the vice?
The vernacular in AvE's vids are what keeps me watching! Legend in the making.
Silly question. Is that little bit of foam an air filter? If its on the "in" side of the airflow would that keep it cool enough to prevent melting?
That was my guess, that open cell foam is used in a lot of filters out there, if there was a mechanical hold down for the cords it would be much stiffer.
I think the foam may also be an indication of use. Basically you send the tool on for repair, they see that foam has not degraded, and they know that they have a legitimate RMA to deal with. At least that is the only reason I could seen for having such a pathetic bit of foam in a High end tool. Not to say that the tool should fail easily, but it might make someones life easier.
As someone who does FDA stainless welding and polishing and uses air grinders all day in the shop(Souix, Dotco, Desouter), when doing field service work and only have 120v electric available, Metabo grinders are the smoothest operating, best feeling tools I've used. We have Makita, Milwaukee, and DeWalt, but the Metabo grinders and Dynafiles are miles ahead when doing precision polishing. I also have a 5" Makita rat tail in my personal shop, but it's been relegated to cut off wheel duty since I picked up a variable speed Metabo 5".
Perfect thing to watch while doing my homework at 1AM.
my buddies dad is been running his metabo for close to 20 years now and we beat the hell out of that poor thing. We have had it in the derbie garage for around 15 years and it still goes to work with the old man 5 days a week
Nice job! I've got the cheapo harbor fraught grinder, and after finding myself using it a ton, i was looking into what a good grinder I should buy. Looks like the makita may be on the top of my list
I have owned this model grinder for about almost 2 years now. And used full time at work. The disk stop deal fell out within 4 months of use. Kept falling out until I lost it. Very frustrating because that exposed the gear housing to the elements and now I'm replacing the gear of the head side. The one on the motor side looks fine. But I'm finding out that it's not as easy as I would have thought.
Natural rubber? You mean tree spooge?
No. Tree schmoo. Learn moar Canukistani.
tree shmooo
Natural rubber.....the stuff that splits and decays 10-12 years down the road.
Well it's not completely natural rubber, it's been vulcanized. It will only split and decay 10 years down the road if it's left in the sun the whole time and never used. Moving around the rubber as you use the tool over time actually helps it 'self heal' from weather effects or so I've read that car tires will go much longer without weather cracking if they are regularly driven on. And they are vulcanized rubber as well.
That was definitely what I was thinking. Surely silicone would be better and cheaper? Or maybe it doesn't go bad cause reasons?
Depending on the additives in the rubber they don't always need pressure to cure. Right type of rubber can just use steam. We call it an atmospheric cure in my line of work. Another way to cure some types of rubber is hot water where water is used for temperature and pressure (may be used for cable manufacturing using extrusion process). Several hundred different types of rubber and several additives for each type.
AvE featured This Old Tony. Life is good.
Some women admit to prefer longer tools for their grinding.
These Flachkopf-Winkelschleifer are made to get into tight spots, where a ordinary angle grinder could not fit. I only have the short one, but mine is close to 20 years old and still going strong. I've found it in the scrap heap about two years back. Happily, Metabo parts are still readily available here in Europe - The red switch, too. Good luck with it.
In Germany Metabo is the prosumer stuff you pick up at the home improvement store and even there Makita has the better rep. If you have a business to run that depends on these tools Hilti and FEIN is your brands of choice.
Lukas danke,
I've seen plenty of businesses running on Ryobi or similar. Not a good choice for an iron worker 50 stories up but in a shop where you can just grab another one from the rack while it cools off it's no biggie. Sure the nice tools come with warranty, but getting them to actually warranty them is usually more difficult then going to the local skum bags and buying 10 more of said item.
Had 2 fein grinders, junk, went back to metabo. Cracked both gear heads wtf
TMoD7007 yea, I was surprised as well. The motors where decent, didn’t overheat, but they where geared a little lower, another reason I wasn’t impressed in the end, makes grinding more of a chore
I have a 86 Porsche 944 and it's the best made vehicle I have every seen.
You must have got the grinder assembled during Oktoberfest.
My company I work for bought 3 regular metabo grinders 4-5 years ago. Maybe longer. All are still going. I build water trucks for them. Grinders in shop are dewalt and metabo. when i am turning an old cement truck into a water truck my grinder is one of the metabos. I been using the same one a real long time. Keep it in my area of shop. As welder i do tons of grinding for prep. If any of my grinders at home die. They will be replaced with a metabo. I have a man-killer old sioux massive grinder that might be older than me. I think it will outlive me and go to new owner at my estate auction. lol
"You got your *WHAT* in a vice?!"
I have no idea how I ended up finding this guys channel, but I am so glad I did. Interesting videos and funny too!
How much of the extra cost do you figure is from the lovejoy coupling and low profile head (vs the other standard grinders)? Not to question your analysis of the stamped part, but so long as the bottom surface is flat, what does it matter? The relative machining of the aluminium gland end is all that counts. Also, the loose connections at the mains seem really confusing...is there something they are doing that isn't readily apparent? could the wire be connected solidly to the spade inside an outer sleeve for strain relief? they obviously know how to make a solid connection, and it seems like a strange place to pinch pennies. BTW, what happened to the Flir? would be interesting to see if those really do get hotter than a $2 pistol... thanks again for your great vids.
It is indeed a very unfair comparison. A similar "normal" grinder (the W 9-125 Quick) costs 147€ (manufacturer's list price incl. tax) while the WEF 9-125 Quick costs 291€ so almost exactly twice as much.
About the wire: I guess it's because the power cable will be the first thing to be changed after someone cut through it. And even if a connector is moving around a little it doesn't mean that there isn't a large contact surface area. Typically these "loose" spade connectors have a latch inside that makes prevents them to come off on their own.
I was meaning the loose spade connectors at 12:40. If they aren't getting good contact it would increase the electrical resistance and heat up.
I've got one of these that is about 20 years old. Switch is on top, it's about as ergonomic as a stump but it just goes and goes. Frickin bullet-proof and having a fastening nut that doesn't require a wrench is a big plus in my books.
"One Helluva Cord" - that was my nickname back in high school.
First of all, thank you for taking the time to make these videos mate, really appreciate it. I can honestly say that AvE is probably my favourite TH-cam Channel at the moment. Quality vids and great comedy. A man's man channel! But more importantly... christ does this guy know his shit! He's probably forgotten more than I know!
"Good luck finding a metric bolt"
But I have a few thousand lying around?
Still dont get why they choose the Metrology of the Past even if they have to use the Metric system to get there Units precisely enough and the thread stuff well ... China is further than the US in Metrology
I didn't realise that this video was 4 months old. I just came across this channel about a few weeks ago and think they're great!
I've had a fair bit of industrial use with Metabo grinders (and Makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee and some Hitachi).
Each had their pluses and minuses but I have to say that I'm not a great fan of the Metabo BECAUSE of the Quick Protect magicery. all it seams to do is get in the way of working. Also, as the grinder gets older, it seams to kick in sooner and sooner.
I've also had a few Metabos where the cooling impeller becomes detached and no longer spins when the grinder is used. No airflow = hot grinder, quickly!
Milwaukee are easily the most powerful I've used and, mechanically, the longest lasting (ok, on par with Makita) but the stupid, flimsy way the guards are attached kills the head to quickly.
Milwaukee also have some magicery in them to that feeds more power to them when they slow down under load, which is why they're so powerful, BUT this makes them run really hot. I've burned out a couple of their 6" x 13amp paddle (ugh, hate paddle grinders too!) grinders, even though they're supposed to have thermal overload protection?
Anyway, great videos, love them, and your terminology to describe stuff. Thank you!
Looks pretty disappointing for the price. I bought my makita GA5030 for 40 euros, love that grinder works every day, small in the hand, very pleasant to use.
"works every day, small in the hand, very pleasant to use." nomtalkinbout
Giggity giggity.
If you know what I mean :D
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
I don't know why I took so long to subscribe, as I've been watching your videos for ever, but man your comic-relief is hands down some of THE BEST on youtube.
found a ton of hilti and metabo at a local pawn shop, great price, seems unused. would you suggest purchase?
Lol stolen from the jobsite for sure
I've used Makita, Dewalt, and Metabo. I use my grinders hard on a daily basis. My first Metabo lasted 7 years. The Dewalt that replaced it lasted about 6 weeks, and I hated the feel and sound of the Makita and pawned it off on a new guy and took the Metabo he was issued. When it came time to replace my POS grinder I use out in the garage, I bought a Metabo. Don't regret it one bit.
So how does Bosch angle grinders stack up to Makita, Metabo, Fein, DeWalt etc.?
Bosch angle grinder tear down coming up next?
Bosch isn't worth the time, not for years.
Good for car parts, not power tools.
Love using my Motabo grinder. Fabricating and can grab and start it up one handed. Hold my metal in the other while modifying it to fit exactly. Use Cubitron II grinding pads and champher up to 2 inch steel like it has been machined. Several of my friends that fabricate use them as well.
Horsecock style.
I know what I'm calling it from now on :j
Usually I just say "that kind that I don't like."
The teasers in the last 3/4 vidjeos were drinving me CRAZY. You really know how to add suspense.
The wire connections are not tinned because tinning wires in Germany is not allowed. Don't know any details though.
Marine cables and wires are not tinned either.
I know you don't know any details, but like, in a more general sense, like, why? For what purpose?
Jackson Gray My educated guess is that because the solder is ductile and not elastic you take away the wire's elasticity, which, when bolted in, lets the solder flow away from the clamping-force. Therefore the resistance rises and arcing can eventually occur.
Just for the same reason u should never use a soldering iron when u work on your cars electric system.
Tinned stranded wire in a vibrating environment (when the wire isn't 100% rigidly secured) is a sure way to have a broken wire at some point. Also solder has some very strong "creep" (in short: deforming slowly under stress) so any clamped connection will become loose. Crimping/clamping bare copper forms a way better and reliable connection than a tinned/soldered a wire.
The thing is, that these Metabo grinders are just about the same price as a Makita or Bosch Professional (few slightly different model for slightly different prices but all around 60 to 70€) here in Germany. Fein is about 100€, a cheap Hilti is 90, an expensive one 300€ and around 25€ you get the cheap crap.
So if youre looking at realistic prices, this thing is pretty much like all the other stuff, a little better or worse for 5 bucks more or less doesnt really matter to most people.
@17:00 notice that the casting on the head has recesses molded into it for the guard lock to lock into so that the attachment screws aren't the only thing absorbing the shock from the 200-metric-pound gorilla chucking the grinder across the floor at the end of the day...
Question for the master. What's your opinion of Hitachi tools. I was looking for an episode where you reviewed a Hitachi tool and I couldn't find one. I was wondering what effect Hitachi's purchase of Metabo has had on both companies.
Real question: why does he know this stuff? I’m very impressed and in awe whatever the answer is.
Personal experience with metabo tools. Grinder and 1/2 ‘’ hammer drill.
Switchs failed after 20 years.
10 years later. They still need new switches. Just got new cheaper tools as the work requirements changed.
Good pro tools though.
But mostly. Great videos
Again
Thanks Ave.
“Say you’re doing a meth lab in Guadalajara...” lol
Crosslinked polymers are thermoset and cannot be (re)melted. Thermoplastics are the PP, PET, and PE families that can undergo process melting. I love the videos and the accuracy of the info. Keep them coming.
This guy is great! Love his reviews.
Oldest metabo I have is about 8 years old now - excentric sander- hear its bearings are going now but used it long and hard and never payed attention to the duty cycle rating the 150€ I put down for it has seen me finish what I started with it up to now with no complaints..
Nice video again Ave. Been wondering for a while. Are you the singer from Crash test dummies? ;) Greetings from Norway
The first album I bought with money earned from potatoplucking and plowing with John Deere 2040. Nice to see you made a new career with boltr after the musicindustry went down. Loving your vids. Keep up the chooch 😃
We have this grinder in the welding shop. Best grinder I ever used. The braking system is amazing.
"If you ain't over 200 pounds, you'll be weighed in a child care center" goes the saying, I hear.
Ave, Great Video as usual. I own several Metabo Grinders, however I do not.own that Pancake version. I haven't had a failure yet, and I've been beating them up daily for 3 years Welding/Fabrication work.
17:00 is it possibly clever where the force is translated into the depressions in the metal casting, and the screws just keep the plastic in place. All the forces on that plate from a drop are going to be lateral as the guard tries to rotate, and those lateral forces will go into the tool body via those detents not via the screws.
Yes but then again, one unlucky hit from the other side and its gone...
Mayhaps - but I looked at it with my thinking cap on -- Any vertical forces wouldn't translate to the detent holder because the collet around the grinder axle would take that force. The only thing translated to the detent is lateral force, and that lateral force goes into those depressions in the main housing. All forces on the shield are converted to rotation by the slot it's mounted on.
frollard People manage to destroy anything if its not oversized enough...
Also, that's pretty hefty plastic, not likely to break easily. With the way it's designed and nested into the housing, the only way to get any leverage on those screws is with the guard off and hitting it towards the spindle.
The detents on the shield clip give it a physical rigidity that makes the two screws that hold it in place, not so important when the tool is dropped. The pressure created is dissipated through the recessed areas of the part into the housing, not so much at the screw area of the part. At least that is how I see it.
Played backwards at 19:21, AvE says 'and that it did spot weld it'. And now you know...
I used to sell Metabo power tools 40 years ago for Draper tools which are still the largest tool distributors in the U.K. , they were the best tools on the market then and still are today. Do a head to head with any other make and see for yourself. By the way all your vids are fantastic in as much as you entertain and educate at the same time, excellent sense of humour as well 😂
fuck. i love your videos. but sometimes can you just say " its a good un" or "its a bad un" at the start? so i can order the tool online , and then watch your video while my wife beats me for spending money? two birds, you know?
I don't think that would really be the best way to do it. because with the downfalls it has, some things are better than the makita. it just depends on how you use it.
Or you just skip the vigeo to the last 2 minutes
wow. rude. I would never. if i start an AvE video - I finish it. I bet youre the type to stop lending a hand before the jobs done too. The nerve of some people!
It's no good to stop giving a handy before the other guy is finished.
Because hardly anything shakes out that way. Including this video. Buying advice is "depends on what you want it for." Recommendations ranged from $20 to $250.
The part at 13:20. It is actually a spade connector. That's why it is loose. And based on some of my experience. It is actually a failure point on my Bosch grinder. The grinder will suddenly stop working. Spend an hour to look inside, and the usual problem is the connector.
LOL! Its like you know me, I have a 1979 W116 300SD.
We do LOTS of hand grinding slag off of parts that come off our plasma tables. We switched to this brand of grinders on a trial in a few areas. I really liked the way the lock worked compared to other brands as it is much easier to lock. Sadly the extra cost of these did not have a good enough return value in the life of the tool. That said there is value in the operator experience using the tool which was appreciated by the guys who spend a good portion of the day operation the tool. So overall if you factor in the ease of use and possible repetitive
stress injuries from using hand grinders daily I do recommend the extra expense of this brand. So for home use, not worth but in a factory environment the cost savings on possible injuries from long term use I highly recommend at least giving these a trial run.