RC Pit-Stop EP38 - Soldering XT150 Connectors
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2016
- RC Pit-Stop EP38 - Soldering XT150 Connectors
A few people have asked me to show them how I solder my XT150 connectors, so I figured I'd a video and show you how I do it.
Please note that this is not a video telling how you should do it, it's merely a video showing you how I solder these connectors to my batteries.
Hope this video helped you out a bit in some way and thank you for watching. :)
RC HOT TIP: Choosing the right RC Connectors:
• RC HOT TIP: Choosing t...
Hobbyking XT150 Connectors: hobbyking.com/en_us/xt150-con...
2 in 1 Wire Stripper/Cutter: hobbyking.com/en_us/2-in-1-wi...
Soldering Iron: hobbyking.com/en_us/soldering...
Aussie RC Playground Facebook page:
/ aussiercplayground
Intro done by Wiziquad:
/ wiziquad
Music purchased from:
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Track used for intro:
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Artist:
Olive Musique - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I use a block of wood with holes drilled in it to do what Mr. Jig does.
Same here. Helps to keep the heat in too.
@@HouseholdDog Yes, me too.
Thanks for this video Vas! I was on the fence with Castle Creations connectors that Chris (Hemistorm) uses, it wasn't until the idea of connecting Parallel & Series batteries together without an additional connector it all made perfect sense. Thank you Vas!!
So I changed from XT60 with an Y-wiring to the simple XT150-setup as you suggested. Very easy and fast work - just 1 hr to resolder all my 7 lipos, 2 charging cable and 2 ESC. And very reliable as I know about the correct soldering after pulling the cap over the plug.
Thanks for this.
These XT 150 are great and easy to solder it's the only plugs I use on all my Crawlers from ESC to batteries. Plus it makes everything interchangeable.😎👍🤘great video buddy, like the jig
Great job using the closeups on this video....definitely the best how to solder vids on youtube....I learn to solder in trade school 35+ years ago....I learned how to silver solder refrigeration lines and airconditioning units....that uses tons more heat than lead based electrical solder...transitioning to electronics was easy
Thanks Craig. :)
This is the best soldering video i've ever watched. Those wire strippers were awesome looking. Mite, have too order one... Thanks, for another great vid. :)
Thank you for watching, glad I could help. :)
Thanks Vas
It's nice to see that I am doing it the correct way or at least very similar to your method.
I like the thicker cone shaped tip. Just means I can slide it in between the wire and the plug to form a good bond.
Garszy
the non lead based solder is a high silver content solder. It works great, you just need Flux to get the solder to adhere to the connectors or wire. I have always used novak solder and Flux and have always had really good luck.
Great vid Vas, very informative. I hate soldering but I might give it another try now.
Great vid ma. I'm about to change to xt150 and this helps me a lot!!
Great video I am not the best at soldering all that information and tips are going to help me big time, I need to change my plugs on all my batteries so thankyou Vas that was a big help and I would watch any other tips as well for smaller connectors as well so thanks for sharing that with all us 2 big thumbs up.
lol thanks Vas ! I'm just getting the XLX finished up but because of the MMX updated firmware has been released. This video couldn't of came at a better time !!! Thanks for helping us Vas👊
Good safety hint! Shorts on Lipos are anything else then fun. Like your videos.
Thanks Vas, I use that Mr.jig also,, it takes me forever to do my bullets. Think I'll try the pliers method.
You do a great job of every rc thing you do i love your vids and your accent mate.
Great demo 👍
i realize this video is not recent but about your jig if you have spent the $ on one i suggest you use the oversized hole but toss in a shrinked heat shrink or two to insulate the jigg from the connector or as i did later on after the heat shrink was working but....; I filled the oversized hole with silicon and use a bullet that i greased with a thin film so that it can pull out easy after the silicon dried up & voila! a tite fit that do not carry heat away as much, i hope my solution to this issue helps out drilled wood blocks work well too,,Cheers & TY for your video
Good job brother good breakdown and in my opinion that's some good soldering dude really good same way I've been doing it heating it all up solidifying and sinking the cable in beautiful looks good
Thank you. 🙂🤜🤛
Great tutorial
That helps alot thanks I've had trouble soldering👍
Thanks, that was very useful.
Useful video.
Thanks a lot, very helpful for me !!!!
Great vid mate👍👍
thanks , that was very helpful
that's funny. I thought I was the only one using the plyer with rubber band method, one of those portable little clamp vices work well too except they do melt sometimes. thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the vid mate
Good video. I use the same jig. Try heating it with a heat gun i.e heat soak it first then it stays hot as does the plug works well. Good post. Thanks
Thanks a lot! This connector seems a ton better & easier to solder than Dean plugs.
Im using a piece of wood with holes in it.Almost zero heat dissipstion and the solder remains several seconds in boiling condition :)
great awesome video!
You need the correct soldering tip called a 5 mm wedge with a 400° C temp! soldering time should not be any longer than 5 Seconds.. .
Aussie guy nicely done!
You know your stuff. I should put those on my Xmaxx battery and esc wires
Actually it's the other way around the fluxes used with lead free solder are toxic while tin/lead solder uses rosin flux which is relatively harmless. So the smoke from tin/lead solder is fairly safe while you need to be more ventilation with soldering lead free solder. Also the boiling point of lead is 3180 °F five times it's melting point so there's no need to worry about lead vapor when soldering.
Good job
I like how you did the connector without getting any solder on the outside of the bullet connector. This way it snaps in easily and also allows the plastic housing to rotate freely.
Thank you. :)
aussie rc playground nice vid :D might come in handy
good job
Good info
Thanks for the video I did buy the wire cutters strippers ..
I followed your instructions exact and it only took me 12 hours to solder 6 cables.
lol
That music really helps stay in the groove while soldering!
Spot on Vas
Nice and informative video!
A jig made out of a piece of wood should work better than the aluminium one.
You can also use a wet rag to hold the wire while soldering.
This is what I did - I took a 6" section of 2x4, and drilled different sized holes in the 4" and 2" sizes. The reason I did both is so I can either have the block sit flat or on edge, depending on how much slack there is in the cable (for the ESC end)
I use the same jig, what I found works best is I put the connectors in the next bigger size and it eliminates the heat dissipation problem. What soldering station do you use?
Hey thanks Buddy for the tips :)0
AWESOME VIDEO THANKYOU!! NICE ADDITION WITH THE PORN MUSIC BACKGROUND ALSO! JK. VERY HELPFUL VIDEO.
I put these XT150 connectors on my Arrma Senton and it's running 61 mph stock with 6s Basher 4000 mAh battery. I did not do a speed run with the dean's connectors, but compared to the speed runs done on TH-cam, there is no need to change my pinion to the 16T it comes with.
can these connectors be put on ESC to motor connection? would there be any gains in more power or less heat?
Thanks mate! I'm a newbie getting into high voltage bushless systems.
High voltage....lmao
@@nuhbiwan ?
@@mr.velocitystack4133 that is not high voltage. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_voltage
There are indeed high voltage brushless motors, but these rc motors are definitely not that kind
@@nuhbiwan Oh, okay. Well, I'm still learning. Thanks for the info.
@@mr.velocitystack4133 in the end, it's a hobby, so there are a lot of terms, that are applied incorrectly, but I guess it is ok, as long as you don't call youself an engineer like j. Bardwell does. He messes up a lot, but no one cares.
So for dual batteries in a series do you have to have a set running from the esc also?
Awesome
That's so funny, its exactly what I do, elastic band and my pliers even have yellow plastic over the handles. works great.
great video. loved the soldering technique. helped me a bunch. just one thing, can you send me the name of the scissors and the wire stripper so I can purchase them?
Hey Vas, whats the verdict on the hobby king soldering station?
Great video. Would it be better to desolder the old connectors, rather than cutting? Just thinking , to save cutting the length unnecessarily and making the battery shorter.
Cutting is easy and if there's enough cable, a few millimeters isn't going to matter. But yes, you can desolder if your iron is good enough. 👍
How would you connect xt150 on a y Harness on the max 8 esc?
Hobbyking sells ESC and Battery pairs of the XT150s. The difference in the sets is what is Red and Male in one set is Red and Female in the other with the appropriate sized cap too. Also, after breaking some smaller gauge wires trying to pull the cap in place, I learned to run the wire through a slightly open pair of pliers and rest the bottom of the cap against the pliers, and using my other hand and a 2.5mm hex driver, I push the metal connector until it snaps in place. Essentially, instead of pulling the wire and connector into the cap, I hold the cap and push the metal connector into it.
Awesome dude that WAS PERFECT
Vas,
Firstly mate as always great tutorial 👍🏻👍🏻
I have a question if you could help.....I am wanting to swap all my batteries to xt150, is there any issues with using them in 2s-3s setups eg (yeti/Rock Rey)? I just want to eliminate as many different connectors as possible..
You'll be adding a lot of weight to smaller 2S & 3S LiPos. Why not use XT60s for them and either XT150s or XT90s up to 6S. These 7mm XT150s are really for voltages at 6S and up. You can plug EC5 LiPos into XT90 devices but not the other way around. They are 5mm bullets. Unless you're using mostly 6S and up, no need to add the extra weight and bulk. But go for it if that's what you want.
cheers, I just needed to find out how the hood is pulled on not pushed on...after.
can you charge this battery with cradle clips
Solder with Pb fumes not because of mix itself, but because it has flux in it already :)
how do you make them waterproof ? inject something after they are finished ? I use a powerful fan facing away from me to deal with solder smoke, the smoke gets sucked into the vacuum created by the fan, but it doesn't make your stuff cold, also usually solder outside. The other way to do it is solder on top of the oven and use the extractor fans that are commonly installed above ovens.
I don't do anything to make them waterproof, however, I avoid water where possible, so that sort of thing doesn't concern me much. That said, I believe any connector is naturally "waterproof" to an extent, so I don't thing you need to do anything. 🤷♂️
great video! i'm new to the rc world. can someone tell me- with these connectors, do you then need an adapter to plug into charger?
No the white connector
hi vas,is the bothe black and red wire are using the male xt150?or the red is a female xt150.thanks
Plugging them in without a y-cable of somesort is even better for double capacity, perfect
Well it's nice to no I soldered up like 15 sets " WRONG " I've been glueing my plastic caps on because they kept falling off I didn't slid them down the wire first I tryed it an didn't realize you had to pull so hard to set them 😬oops I got some fixing to do ,thank you for the enlightenment!!!👌🏻
Hey man. If they fit together ok, work when connected and there is no chance of the caps coming off and causing a short, don't worry about it. I did something similar when I stuffed up my first EC5's and they're still working.
An alternate way to solder these that I recently discovered is to use a grinding wheel on a dremel to open up the side of the cup like some bullet connectors have. Then you an solder them like an XT90.
is the red cable generally used for the female connector?
Thanks for all the useful information. I bought some xt150 connectors to use between my motorcycle stator and rectifier. The stator produces 80V at 6.000rpm . You think these connectors will hold up? Thanks!
Good question... Can't say for sure, I guess it really depends on the amps. Volts is one thing, but amps is where you'll see if the connectors can hold up or not. 🤷♂️
@@AussieRCPlayground the xt150 can handle current up to 150amps ?
Is that true?
Most motorcycles have a 30-40amp fuse anyway
Yeah, can handle up to 150amps (hence the name). It wouldn't hurt to try it, I guess.
Fumes are from flux, not from lead in solder. Greetings.
+1
What’s the temperature setting for soldering xt150?
Aussie RC Playground can you do a review and run of the traxxas funny car?
How many watts is the iron? It should’ve transferred the heat better.
Good job aussie rc. Good information. Everyone in the hobby should learn how to use a soldering iron properly and safely. A torch is not how to do this.
Everything I’ve ever read about soldering batteries says “power source” always gets female connector. Why are you using one of each on your battery?
So I can connect my batteries in series without needing a Y connector, so I connect the female from one battery to the male of the other battery. And it also avoids plugging in the battery to the ESC with the wrong polarity. 😉
What is difference xt150 6mm vs 7mm
12:00 noooo all that solder will go wayyy down into the wire. i know this makes it stiff but i believe the main reason this is bad is because if that solder weakens or even breaks, down in the wire, you connection is compromised, sorta like tempered glass.
No, that's not correct at all. Been doing this for years, no such problems.
Yep, you are correct, regardless of how other people have been doing it for years. What it does is to basically convert a stranded wire into a single "solid core" exactly at the point where you need the flexibility of a stranded wire.
It is true, that on thick wires like this, you usually can get away with it as it has enough physical strength to withstand every day handling , but ideally, the wire that emerges from the shell should NOT have solder "wicked into it" - but should still be stranded. This is especially true with thin wires in other connectors. Crimp if you can - or use JUST enough solder to make a properly wetted joint if you cannot. Do NOT overfill so it "wicks" up into the rest of the wire.
It is also one of the reasons why (where the design allows) cable connectors should be crimped (they are ALWAYS crimped in industry and power distribution and not soldered). Then you find people who crimp them *AND* "solder them for "good measure", which once again DECREASES reliability.
It's a great shame that they do not do a sensibly priced crimpable version of the XT150, the Anderson connectors are crimp based - but you pay a hefty price for them and the excessive platic shell limits heat dissipation on high current links.
How is that Soldering Iron holding up , do you like it ? Thinking about ordering it
To be honest, my more expensive iron died a couple of months back and I've been using this non-stop ever since and it hasn't failed me yet. For the price it is, you can't beat it.
Hi, what XT150 plug you solder on the ESC, a red big sleve on plus and a black smal on minus? I look for the right sets of XT150 plugs for my LiPos and ESCs.
ESC: Red large sleeve with male. Black small sleeve with female.
Battery: Red small sleeve with female. Black large sleeve with male.
Hope that helps. 😊
@@AussieRCPlayground Thanks for your Info.
Is this a default plug setup or is this your default?
This is the default setup. If you look on the Hobbyking site and see how they sell the ESC side and battery side connectors, it's exactly like that. 😉
@@AussieRCPlayground OK, thank you very much :)
friicken eh, vas! im going to xt 150's!
What would you recommend for just 4s use?? In terms of connectors
it matters less about the voltage(4s 14.8v) and more about the amps being drawn from the machine.
i heard 63-37 is the best way to go for our sensitive components
63/37 has higher melting point. So it takes longer to melt and turns back ti solid very fast so it can be trickey to use. But it does a really good job if u do it correctly. No difference other than that
what is the benefit of using that size of a connector with a wire of this gauge?
only thing I could think of is a more robust mechanical connection. certainly don't need it for power transfer, a 4mm bullet would work fine.
If you find a way to heat your plug without a soldering iron, you could have less exposed wire insulation. Have a nice day!
Electrical tape covering the cut wire is also a possibility. - For safety.
I noticed XT150's can come in a blue color as well. What's the benefit of that?
Blue is used for the series connector on 12S power systems so you don't mistakenly dead short two batteries together. Red to red, black to black blue to blue.
Thanks for the info.
What's a bat-tree?
If you use flux the wire will take the solder better and faster.
Flux allows the solder to get down into the individual wires and prevent holes or cavities which can result in cold solder joints. Bigger wires (12AWG & lower) should be fluxed before soldering.
It is so true.
Late reply, but you can see the wires he's using are flux core. So no need to add more flux.
what is the name of this battery? it's exactly the one I'm looking for.
Turnigy 5000mAh 2S 7.4V 60C Hardcase Pack
hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-5000mah-2s-7-4v-60c-hardcase-pack.html
If you are using lead solder then most of the fumes coming off is just the flux boiling off... Not the lead... Otherwise there would be no point in putting lead in it if it just boiled off too. The lead is there to stop it cracking over a long time, it's a far far superior solder.
Hey Buddy can you do the X/T 90 Please >/
Just a quick question would a blow torch work for something like this?
I think that's best suited for other applications, but I've never used one myself, so can't say for sure. I would think that a live flame would melt the silicone tube surrounding the wire. I think a soldering iron works best in this case.
I use dremel gas soldering iron. works perfect.
I small torch can work well.
I use a lighter
What temp do u like to solder at
For batteries
Thanks a lot for sharing this video, im preparing to move to XT150, and this really showed me how to do it.
Btw do you recommend the normal XT150 or Amass AS150?
+Pabula up to you what you'd prefer. I use XT150 from Hobbyking and I'm very happy with them.
Why remove the batteries video?
I brought 2 bags of 5 pairs so i wont run out anytime soon :>
Wow great video :D Nice tutorial especially for someone like me who doesnt know a thing about soldering! I`ve been thinking about buying the xt150 connector but i dont have a soldering iron. Is the one that you used in the video any good? I liked it because it's very cheap xD Cheers