As an IT Project Manager and DIY enthusiast I spend 80% of the time gathering requirements and proper data before the work even begins. After watching what I can only describe as an unbelievable amount of videos on how to properly solder XT connectors, this is by far one of the best. Information is presented Objectively with appropriate context for the viewer. Great job.
Great video! I have 20+ years experience as a custom A/V technician, and solder almost daily... I’ve been shaking my head at a lot of soldering videos, almost all of them don’t say or show that you heat the object your adding solder to or joining and not melting the solder onto the object or the iron!! Glad you showed the correct way so ppl can really UNDERSTAND whats taking place! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😎
Cheers mate. It's a very basic video, but hopefully covered enough for the average joe to understand. And I think in for this hobby it's more about a good connection than a perfect solder. 👍
I just watched a couple of videos and no one ever says the most important part of soldering like you said. The higher the watt iron the better. They’re probably making a lot of people feel helpless that aren’t using a high watt soldering iron. Burning their finger tips nice and crispy.
I believe the most important thing is that people don't realize your actually heating the part the solder goes on to. Not just the solder itself. Great video even today!👍
Given that after I solder it looks like a first grader's arts and crafts project, I thought I should check this video out. Thanks for the tips! At the very least my confidence is a big higher than before this video, 'till I fire that iron back up, LOL!
It also helps to plug a spare connector into the opposite side of the connector you are soldering. It transfers some of the heat to the spare connector so you don't melt the one you're soldering and it also helps the metal connectors to stay in place if they get to hot.
You can take that one step further by soldering on a few inches of 12AWG wire to each side of your spare heatsink connector, it will pull a good bit more excess heat out of the plugs and keep it from melting the plastic. I've also found that an empty airbrush is excellent for cooling solder joints, just by blowing air over the part immediately after soldering, it's great for temperature sensitive joints.
@@TheExplosiveGuy @Mark Green If have to cool it off then you're getting it too hot using too low of temp on the iron so that it heats up everything before melting. Use a higher temp to get in and out and use 63/37 as it cools faster than 60/40 does. Should not even come close to melting a connector. If it's getting that hot you're going something wrong. Not enough tip temp, too small a tip, and low wattage iron will all cause the connector to get too hot and melt the plastic.
i only had issues like that before i learned how to solder correctly... if you have a hot iron it only takes seconds to finish, connectors can melt do to taking to long leaving iron on connectors...
Nice video. I was always afraid to use high heat. I thought I would damage something but when I finally tried it, I realized I could make the joint and have the heat off in a fraction of the time. It was counter intuitive to me at first but I was holding the heat on for much longer and doing way more damage trying to use a colder iron. And use the biggest chisel tip you can for thick wires like the ones for xt90's. Again, hotter, faster heat transfer made for 1000 percent improvements in my joins.
Yes, lots of heat and less time holding the iron on, once you get the hang of it.... it's really quite easy. My issue with XT90's is trying to get the cable in the hole neatly....I always end up with a couple of strands poking out lol.
@@TomleyRC This is how I do XT90's. Tin the wire, Tin the cup. Connector in the vice with the cup pointing away from me holding the wire pointing towards my chest. Tin iron and hold the iron on the cup for a second to "reheat" it a bit, then I put the wire on it, quickly put a bit of new solder on the iron and then press the wire down with the iron perpendicular to it. when pressing down you will feel the wire sink down into the cup and you can move the iron back and forth to smooth anything down that needs it.
Great tips. I would follow your advice since you have expertise and experience. BTW... I bought a La Traxx for my son and I bought a Pre Runner for myself. I love them with LiPos! Cheers!
The helping hand gadget is Amazing, I use the 60-40 solder mate 👍😁👍 Iam a machine technician by trade , i love soldering 😁 everything you done was bang on mate, fantastic tutorial video, really enjoyed it and I picked up some tips to, really enjoyed every minute of this video as always 👍😁👍
Am a prison officer now so not worked on reall industrial machinery for about 4 years now, 👍😁👍 that's why I love this hobby, always a challenge mate 👍😁👍 love your vids Man,
i just used a pro solder station a friend gave me ,set at 750 degrees and it made soldering so nice.,fast and simple..i have always used cheap irons that sometimes would not get hot enough for some reason and take forever to get a decent bond...
I solder with a stick and some flintlock. Sometimes I rub two sticks together with solder or use an acetylene torch. It melts all the connectors into a ball. Makes them all standardized.
Thanks for sharing your Knowledge. I also worked on aircrafts. I worked as an Aircraft mechanic in the Army for Four years :-)... i guess Thats the reason why i like you and your Videos :-)
Great video, Tomley! BY FAR the best I've found. Now, I'm going to scroll through the comments to see how many people want to try and argue with an aircraft electrician with 20 years of experience. LOL
Thanks Mike. It’s not perfect, but certainly absolutely fine for this hobby. Some slight differences/tolerances in a proper engineering environment and certainly in the aviation industry. But you’ll not go wrong doing this in the RC Hobby
Fantastic job, dude! 😃 About filling the connection with more solder, it all depends on how much current you're going to pull. For quadcopters, for example, where you have picks up to 130A... Definitely you would need to do that. Otherwise it's no need. 😊
Tomley, thanks for this video. I am putting together an 8XE and am at the electrics stage. I bought some rosin core solder (lead free) off Amazon and, combined with my lack of soldering experience, this solder appears to be quite useless to tin on 10awg wire. I have just given Bill Shorthouse a call and have ordered the same solder you are using. If it still doesn't work then I am in trouble, haha.
Lead Free solder is pretty hard to use. I know a lot of people don't like to have 'Lead'...but sometimes it's the only way. As long as you keep the area well vented, you should be good. Good luck!
Tomley RC well, I’ve bought a small USB fan to blow the smoke away from me, I’ll have the windows open and I’ll use the mask I bought for Covid-19 purposes! Should do the trick 😅
Going to try my first soldering project tomorrow thanks for the tips, have to rewire my esc battery cables ill let you know how it goes lol i got a cheap set was like 35$ came with a lot of stuff including a multi metter but the iron is 60w 120v so should do the job fine
I hate soldering Deans. This video helped though. I need to lose the lead-free stuff and going off memory, this is the first one I've seen where the tinning from the connector & cable was enough solder. That seems to make sense to me. In others they have added more but i liked this tutorial. thanks for the tips.
Yes, lead free is no good really. The cable was quite small on the deans, but the same thing works ok with a bigger one, as long as it's tinned correctly. Some of the cheaper deans can melt very quickly, so worth putting the male/female end on also to help absorb the heat better. 👍
I love soldering. I've got an old reel of Radioshack solder that works perfect. If I buy new 60/40 it just disappears and turns into ash, I dont know if my soldering iron is to hot or what, but I go threw tips like crazy but I can solder XT90s and Deans with a quickness. I had an old Weller 8200 soldering gun and the tip just disintegrated after about 5 uses, idk what i'm doing wrong. The current soldering iron I use is a china brand one that came with like 5 tips it has temp adjustment I keep it at 350 degrees Fahrenheit
Hopefully by now you've purchased a soldering station with a thermostat? My wife got me one for Christmas a 14 months ago. I sure wish I had bought one many years earlier!
@@senseisecurityschool9337 I have bought at least 2 different soldering pencils since. Same luck with the cheap solder, it disappears once I heat it up and nothing ends up on the wire. My old Radio shack reel of solder is just about gone. And I have no idea where to get good solder the hardware store here only carries acid core for plumbing
Ok so John Salt said with XT90 the small irons aren't hot enough. So is a 75W powerful enough for XT90 ? Are wires on batteries or esc when you cut off the old connector already tinned ? Because I've seen guys dipping wires in some resin flux paste and then dipping that in a Solder Pot bath machine. You can buy the metal sticks and melt them in. That does a perfect job. The resin sucks the solder ontovthe wire perfectly.
If you had flux on hand, would you put a dab in the bucket on the connectors before tinning them? A bit of flux on the wires before tinning is always nice, and when soldering small electronics things, I heat a bit of flux on the pads to clean them a bit before tinning, to remove oxides. But for fat connectors like these, would you use flux on them? Funny side note.. I'm gonna use XT60s to repair a ceiling halogen lamp that I like... I put in 8x 14W halogen bulbs by mistake.. it was rated for 8x 10W max. With the 14W bulbs total wattage would be 112W, and the transformer was rated for 105W max, so I was pretty sure it had blown its heat fuse. Not so. The 12V secondary of the transformer connected to the halogens with a Tamiya connector. I had noted it was probably getting a bit hot because the cable was already a bit darkened near the connector, but when I opened it up now it was brittle charcoal near the connector, and one of the pins had no continuity to the halogens. It had burned straight off inside the connector. Normal current in this lamp would be around 7A and with the wrong bulbs around 9A. Rated for 15A my ass, connectors were completely oxidized. I know RC and Airsoft people hate Tamiyas, and now I know why. On the plus side, in this case it acted as a fuse on the secondary, and saved the transformer from my stupidity! Not a feature I want from a connector tho, so I'm going with XT60s for the repair!
i was a solder for 7yrs but i just tried to solder some connectors but they would not solder to together i even had it at a high heat i just dont know what i was doing wrong you guys who solder on connectors make so easy me it takes hours and still fail get soldered
Man 🙁 I have a 100 watt soldering iron The wire becomes too hot to Hold af the Plug melts before I can melt the solder . I can only Find Lead free Solder it’s P’eeing me Off. The tip keeps Blackening up I clean it like you . I Tim the wires but it’s when it comes to putting the the wire to the plug it goes Tits up.
Plug a male/female connector on to the other side of the connector to help dissipate the heat. Lead Free Solder is pants... ‘flux’ will help, but not easy to get hold off
- Keep your fingertip much further away from the iron tip when pushing the wire in, in case your fingers or iron slips. Your fingers are way to close at 9:13 for an instructional video. Or grab it with a tool like small pliers and ease it in, which is what I do. Finger tips should never be closer than about 3-4 cm away from the iron tip. - Use a heat gun instead of a flame for the heatshrink, they really are cheap
@@TomleyRC I generally wouldn't recommend beginners try doing that ;) Usually if your technique is correct it won't be an issue. Or use teflon or silicone wire and it's much harder to melt it, you get some more time to work with.
I don't now what I'm doing wrong. My solder just won't melt when I try to tin the wires or terminals. I'm using a 100w gun which I thought would be plenty (but maybe not). It a draper one like this mastertrade.co.uk/drp-71420-draper-71420-soldering-gun-kit-100w-240v.html. I'd appreciate any advice. Really hoped to get my car up and running this weekend
NEED HELP!!! I BOUGHT A EBIKE CONVERSION KIT THE CONTROLLER HAS A YS60 CONNECTOR MY 36V 15 AH LITHIUM BATTERY HAS A XT90 CONNECTOR. I LOOKED EVERYWHERE CANT FIND A SY 60 CONNECTOR ANYWHERE. I AM A NEWBIE TO ELECTRONICS. I KUST WANT TO STOP PEDDLING TO WORK. CAN ANYONE HERE HELP ME OUT WITH SOME TIPS AND ADVICE PLEASE. MY NEXT MOVE IS TO MAKE A VIDEO OF WHAT I GOT AND SEE IF ANYONE CAN HELP ME
Great vids, I'm just waiting for the "experts" to come in and pick holes in everything like they do every soldering vid on youtube but as far as I'm concerned, that was a more than adequate tutorial which will help people to solder to a good strong standard. I've seen some real horror jobs before now www.ronlund.com/images/worst-solder.jpg I agree about lead free, obviously its possible to work with it because pretty the entire electronics industry relies on it but I find it so fussy and unforgiving. It takes a ton of heat to flow and then it stays in a sort of soft, grainy paste like state for a ridiculous amount of time after you remove the heat.
hi way dont u use flux i do better contact with the solder i solder bit different then u ...if u solder SILICONE wire with a very hot iron the solder will go down and under the cover and u wont be able to bend it
Omg! Your solder job is terrible! "advice from a pro"? U serious? You cut way to much isolation off. It sticks out from the contact points of the plug. Everybody can see this. You heat up the connecter first, than the lead? Wtf? If you do this to long, it will melt or at least bend the plug! Just hold your soldering iron inside the contacts and heat up the lead like this. Much faster, master less heat on the plug and no mess on the outside of the contacts! Than do it again and stick the wire in while it's still melted and don't stop heating. This is way faster than you did! And you should always fill the contacts until the wires are INSIDE solder. Best is when you can't see the wire anymore, because it's inside the solder lead. Especially with wire this thin, compared to the contacts! Also : "advice from a pro"... Thumbnail shows you holding the soldering iron on the metal where it would burn your fingers crispy... Gj there m8!
Hey there great video! One question though - i have a lipo battery that only has the balance leads coming out of it. They are thin wires ... but no thick wires like you have ... It does have two other terminal points but they are just that (soldered points on the battery with no wires coming out of it). It is a 7.4V , 3200 mAh battery from China ... don't even have a C rating on them!
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
As an IT Project Manager and DIY enthusiast I spend 80% of the time gathering requirements and proper data before the work even begins. After watching what I can only describe as an unbelievable amount of videos on how to properly solder XT connectors, this is by far one of the best. Information is presented Objectively with appropriate context for the viewer. Great job.
Thanks Jason. Appreciate the feedback, there are a few ways to solder, but this for me is the easiest and best way for a clean joint. 👍
Make sure you always hold your iron just like he does in the thumbnail. That way you can be super precise.
🤣
And sure that it's ot enough I mean if your skin stick then the solder must be in with a chance.
The word pro on that thumbnail tops it even more
Helpful advice
@@captainchaos3053 Huh? Is that english?
Great video! I have 20+ years experience as a custom A/V technician, and solder almost daily... I’ve been shaking my head at a lot of soldering videos, almost all of them don’t say or show that you heat the object your adding solder to or joining and not melting the solder onto the object or the iron!! Glad you showed the correct way so ppl can really UNDERSTAND whats taking place! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😎
Cheers mate. It's a very basic video, but hopefully covered enough for the average joe to understand. And I think in for this hobby it's more about a good connection than a perfect solder. 👍
I just watched a couple of videos and no one ever says the most important part of soldering like you said. The higher the watt iron the better. They’re probably making a lot of people feel helpless that aren’t using a high watt soldering iron. Burning their finger tips nice and crispy.
I believe the most important thing is that people don't realize your actually heating the part the solder goes on to. Not just the solder itself. Great video even today!👍
I know this was a year ago but after 30 years of automotive soldering myself, you and I solder the same way. Beautiful mate..great video how to.
Thanks mate
Given that after I solder it looks like a first grader's arts and crafts project, I thought I should check this video out. Thanks for the tips! At the very least my confidence is a big higher than before this video, 'till I fire that iron back up, LOL!
haha, glad it's helped you out!
It also helps to plug a spare connector into the opposite side of the connector you are soldering. It transfers some of the heat to the spare connector so you don't melt the one you're soldering and it also helps the metal connectors to stay in place if they get to hot.
thats a great tip thanks
You can take that one step further by soldering on a few inches of 12AWG wire to each side of your spare heatsink connector, it will pull a good bit more excess heat out of the plugs and keep it from melting the plastic. I've also found that an empty airbrush is excellent for cooling solder joints, just by blowing air over the part immediately after soldering, it's great for temperature sensitive joints.
@@TheExplosiveGuy @Mark Green If have to cool it off then you're getting it too hot using too low of temp on the iron so that it heats up everything before melting. Use a higher temp to get in and out and use 63/37 as it cools faster than 60/40 does. Should not even come close to melting a connector. If it's getting that hot you're going something wrong. Not enough tip temp, too small a tip, and low wattage iron will all cause the connector to get too hot and melt the plastic.
i only had issues like that before i learned how to solder correctly... if you have a hot iron it only takes seconds to finish, connectors can melt do to taking to long leaving iron on connectors...
Could’ve use this advice last night
Test joint ,quick pull .no dry joints !!! Very informative !!
Cheers dude
Yes a very clear demonstration of what I was doing wrong thanks for posting a easy to follow video of how to do it right. great work
No probs Dan. Glad it was helpful
Thanks for the video. I have been soldering for years but always good to get tips from a pro
Great work ethic. Glad you’re in aviation industry.
thanks Tomley! Learning to solder finally, my Blackjack42 welded itself to my new set of batteries so I had to cut them off
Nice video. I was always afraid to use high heat. I thought I would damage something but when I finally tried it, I realized I could make the joint and have the heat off in a fraction of the time. It was counter intuitive to me at first but I was holding the heat on for much longer and doing way more damage trying to use a colder iron. And use the biggest chisel tip you can for thick wires like the ones for xt90's. Again, hotter, faster heat transfer made for 1000 percent improvements in my joins.
Yes, lots of heat and less time holding the iron on, once you get the hang of it.... it's really quite easy. My issue with XT90's is trying to get the cable in the hole neatly....I always end up with a couple of strands poking out lol.
@@TomleyRC This is how I do XT90's. Tin the wire, Tin the cup. Connector in the vice with the cup pointing away from me holding the wire pointing towards my chest. Tin iron and hold the iron on the cup for a second to "reheat" it a bit, then I put the wire on it, quickly put a bit of new solder on the iron and then press the wire down with the iron perpendicular to it. when pressing down you will feel the wire sink down into the cup and you can move the iron back and forth to smooth anything down that needs it.
Great video. Always looking to improve my soldering skills. Thanks!
Thanks for this video! I'm fairly new to RCs and have found myself needing to solder a few times and this will really help me hone my skills!
Great tips. I would follow your advice since you have expertise and experience. BTW... I bought a La Traxx for my son and I bought a Pre Runner for myself. I love them with LiPos!
Cheers!
The helping hand gadget is Amazing, I use the 60-40 solder mate 👍😁👍 Iam a machine technician by trade , i love soldering 😁 everything you done was bang on mate, fantastic tutorial video, really enjoyed it and I picked up some tips to, really enjoyed every minute of this video as always 👍😁👍
Cheers Tony, I haven't soldered at work for probably about 10yrs... but still enjoy doing it in the garage :)
Am a prison officer now so not worked on reall industrial machinery for about 4 years now, 👍😁👍 that's why I love this hobby, always a challenge mate 👍😁👍 love your vids Man,
Not a job I could do, managing 2 kids is enough haha
i just used a pro solder station a friend gave me ,set at 750 degrees and it made soldering so nice.,fast and simple..i have always used cheap irons that sometimes would not get hot enough for some reason and take forever to get a decent bond...
I saved this one. I haven't soldered much since I was like 12 or 13 when I had my RC10 and I royally sucked at it back then.
I solder with a stick and some flintlock. Sometimes I rub two sticks together with solder or use an acetylene torch. It melts all the connectors into a ball. Makes them all standardized.
Thanks for sharing your Knowledge. I also worked on aircrafts. I worked as an Aircraft mechanic in the Army for Four years :-)... i guess Thats the reason why i like you and your Videos :-)
Awesome mate, something in common then 😎🤘
Great video thanks. 400 degrees was spot on.
Tomley!
Thanks bruv!
I, glad to rely on you for this video.
I’m about to wrap up my Capra, and this is the next to last thing to do.
Thanks for the advice man, I was panicking when my 2 lipos arrived with xt60 and my esc was using deans haha
Impressive and I like the new intro too!
Very good info. Best advice I have seen on soldering
Thank you. I tried to keep it simple so it was easy to understand
@@TomleyRC you are a good teacher..keep it up! More videos
10:57 ....now thats a great idea!! Thank you, Sir!
Yes! Keeps the pins aligned when the plastic gets soft.
Thank you very much. That is the way and amount of solder I was taught to use many years ago !
The thumbnail got me rolling man! Good one!
Excellent video , couldn't fault your advice . I'm also an old aircraft elecy ( long retired ) , lots of soldering then . KUTGW . 🇦🇺😎
Thanks Steven, I enjoy soldering, it can be relaxing if it's not overly complicated.
Great video, Tomley! BY FAR the best I've found. Now, I'm going to scroll through the comments to see how many people want to try and argue with an aircraft electrician with 20 years of experience. LOL
Thanks Mike. It’s not perfect, but certainly absolutely fine for this hobby. Some slight differences/tolerances in a proper engineering environment and certainly in the aviation industry. But you’ll not go wrong doing this in the RC Hobby
Thanks for this video attempting my first at the weekend
Good luck mate
Fantastic job, dude! 😃
About filling the connection with more solder, it all depends on how much current you're going to pull. For quadcopters, for example, where you have picks up to 130A... Definitely you would need to do that. Otherwise it's no need. 😊
Yeah I guess that would help a bit of the heat dissipate. 👍
Also dependent on the gauge of the wire. He’s using pretty small gauge wire.
@@ubreakitirepairit3569 Good point. 😊
Nice job. Excellent video
Tomley, thanks for this video. I am putting together an 8XE and am at the electrics stage. I bought some rosin core solder (lead free) off Amazon and, combined with my lack of soldering experience, this solder appears to be quite useless to tin on 10awg wire. I have just given Bill Shorthouse a call and have ordered the same solder you are using. If it still doesn't work then I am in trouble, haha.
Lead Free solder is pretty hard to use. I know a lot of people don't like to have 'Lead'...but sometimes it's the only way. As long as you keep the area well vented, you should be good. Good luck!
Tomley RC well, I’ve bought a small USB fan to blow the smoke away from me, I’ll have the windows open and I’ll use the mask I bought for Covid-19 purposes! Should do the trick 😅
thanks tom, great soldering video!!
Was so helpful TH-cam is the best for getting advice thanks tommylee it did help but we r going to try for first time wish me luck thank u
Good luck dude… plenty of practice and you’ll nail it 😎👍
Great video iam a qualified macanic and always been in to rc Great video I do just the same keep up with the great videos
Going to try my first soldering project tomorrow thanks for the tips, have to rewire my esc battery cables ill let you know how it goes lol i got a cheap set was like 35$ came with a lot of stuff including a multi metter but the iron is 60w 120v so should do the job fine
This is an amazing tutorial
Thank you... tried to make it simple
@@TomleyRC it worked really well, i soldered my first xt60 to an esc! thank you
LOL, I wonder how many people notice the way you were holding the soldering iron in the thumbnail? 🤣
Fantastic video.
Cheers mate 👍
Excellent video. Thanks
No probs mate. 👍
Like the new intro
Cheers dude
Wow didnt no you was an aircraft electrician mate 👍👍
I hate soldering Deans. This video helped though. I need to lose the lead-free stuff and going off memory, this is the first one I've seen where the tinning from the connector & cable was enough solder. That seems to make sense to me. In others they have added more but i liked this tutorial. thanks for the tips.
Yes, lead free is no good really. The cable was quite small on the deans, but the same thing works ok with a bigger one, as long as it's tinned correctly. Some of the cheaper deans can melt very quickly, so worth putting the male/female end on also to help absorb the heat better. 👍
Cool video thanks for the info.
No problem 👍
7 WOOHOO FROM TEXAS, COMMENT 2, GREAT VIDEO, KEEP EM COMING. 👍😎😎😎😎😎😎😎
Stephen Harris why you always saying that even in kevin talbot too?
We don't mention Kevin Talbot on this Channel.....he gets upset! 😂
This was very helpful.
Nice video
Great video, thanks for help :)
Simple and informative. Great video, sub'd
Thank you 😎🤘
Thanks really helpful great great vid.
New intro nice
Cheers dude
Great tips thanks👍👍
Great video!!!
I love soldering. I've got an old reel of Radioshack solder that works perfect. If I buy new 60/40 it just disappears and turns into ash, I dont know if my soldering iron is to hot or what, but I go threw tips like crazy but I can solder XT90s and Deans with a quickness. I had an old Weller 8200 soldering gun and the tip just disintegrated after about 5 uses, idk what i'm doing wrong. The current soldering iron I use is a china brand one that came with like 5 tips it has temp adjustment I keep it at 350 degrees Fahrenheit
Yeah, it can be quite relaxing soldering. Not sure why the 60/40 is disappearing?
@@TomleyRC I think maybe it's because it was cheap china stuff. Idk. Or my temp was to hot
Hopefully by now you've purchased a soldering station with a thermostat? My wife got me one for Christmas a 14 months ago. I sure wish I had bought one many years earlier!
@@senseisecurityschool9337 I have bought at least 2 different soldering pencils since. Same luck with the cheap solder, it disappears once I heat it up and nothing ends up on the wire. My old Radio shack reel of solder is just about gone. And I have no idea where to get good solder the hardware store here only carries acid core for plumbing
Ok so John Salt said with XT90 the small irons aren't hot enough. So is a 75W powerful enough for XT90 ? Are wires on batteries or esc when you cut off the old connector already tinned ? Because I've seen guys dipping wires in some resin flux paste and then dipping that in a Solder Pot bath machine. You can buy the metal sticks and melt them in. That does a perfect job. The resin sucks the solder ontovthe wire perfectly.
If you had flux on hand, would you put a dab in the bucket on the connectors before tinning them? A bit of flux on the wires before tinning is always nice, and when soldering small electronics things, I heat a bit of flux on the pads to clean them a bit before tinning, to remove oxides. But for fat connectors like these, would you use flux on them?
Funny side note.. I'm gonna use XT60s to repair a ceiling halogen lamp that I like... I put in 8x 14W halogen bulbs by mistake.. it was rated for 8x 10W max. With the 14W bulbs total wattage would be 112W, and the transformer was rated for 105W max, so I was pretty sure it had blown its heat fuse. Not so. The 12V secondary of the transformer connected to the halogens with a Tamiya connector. I had noted it was probably getting a bit hot because the cable was already a bit darkened near the connector, but when I opened it up now it was brittle charcoal near the connector, and one of the pins had no continuity to the halogens. It had burned straight off inside the connector. Normal current in this lamp would be around 7A and with the wrong bulbs around 9A. Rated for 15A my ass, connectors were completely oxidized. I know RC and Airsoft people hate Tamiyas, and now I know why. On the plus side, in this case it acted as a fuse on the secondary, and saved the transformer from my stupidity! Not a feature I want from a connector tho, so I'm going with XT60s for the repair!
Thank you for posting this : )
No problem Del
GREAT HELP
i was a solder for 7yrs but i just tried to solder some connectors but they would not solder to together i even had it at a high heat i just dont know what i was doing wrong you guys who solder on connectors make so easy me it takes hours and still fail get soldered
Ive got a 30w iron. It clumps up and the solder doesn't soak into the wire. Definitely need an upgrade..
That tumbnail tho
😅👌
lol I just had to pop in and comment on the Thumbnail, looks like that would hurt hanging on to the heated part of the soldering iron :P
Only reason I opened this too lol.
Ive got a notorious v5 i want to change connectors on the truck to xt90 what do u do with the temp wire
the thumbnail made me flinch
I think I used too much tin. Is there any way to remove excess?
Hi Tom I have a esc with 14awg wire with xt90 connector, is that OK by any chance
6:12 is that the map connecter or female connecter...sorry I'm new to this
got a link to the solder you use?
Which Is better more lead, alloy, tin or others??? For the solder
Lead.... but obviously that's the worst thing to breathe in
Thanks for the vid. Would a weller expert 100w work on a xt90?
Yes, anything over 75W should work fine :)
@@TomleyRC thanks so much. Ive been strugling for 2 days wondering why i cant get it to work
Man 🙁 I have a 100 watt soldering iron
The wire becomes too hot to Hold af the Plug melts before I can melt the solder .
I can only Find Lead free Solder it’s P’eeing me Off. The tip keeps Blackening up I clean it like you . I Tim the wires but it’s when it comes to putting the the wire to the plug it goes Tits up.
Plug a male/female connector on to the other side of the connector to help dissipate the heat. Lead Free Solder is pants... ‘flux’ will help, but not easy to get hold off
This video fills me with false confidence i can do this 😂 directly to a lipo cell
Can't tell you how many soldered joints I've had to unsolder because I forgot the shrink tube. Hahah.
:-)!! Very good video!!
Thank you
400 degrees C or F?
I melted a connector... I'm not sure what to do now.
He used Xt60 on the cr right?
Thankyou
Hahaaaaa the thumbnail! 🤣🤦🏼♂️
I was wondering when someone would notice :)
- Keep your fingertip much further away from the iron tip when pushing the wire in, in case your fingers or iron slips. Your fingers are way to close at 9:13 for an instructional video. Or grab it with a tool like small pliers and ease it in, which is what I do. Finger tips should never be closer than about 3-4 cm away from the iron tip.
- Use a heat gun instead of a flame for the heatshrink, they really are cheap
I use my fingers as a guide to how hot the insulation is getting, good for small cables, not good for larger ones lol
@@TomleyRC I generally wouldn't recommend beginners try doing that ;) Usually if your technique is correct it won't be an issue.
Or use teflon or silicone wire and it's much harder to melt it, you get some more time to work with.
I don't now what I'm doing wrong. My solder just won't melt when I try to tin the wires or terminals. I'm using a 100w gun which I thought would be plenty (but maybe not). It a draper one like this mastertrade.co.uk/drp-71420-draper-71420-soldering-gun-kit-100w-240v.html.
I'd appreciate any advice. Really hoped to get my car up and running this weekend
Double check your soldering the right wires...haha
😎🤘
NEED HELP!!! I BOUGHT A EBIKE CONVERSION KIT THE CONTROLLER HAS A YS60 CONNECTOR MY 36V 15 AH LITHIUM BATTERY HAS A XT90 CONNECTOR. I LOOKED EVERYWHERE CANT FIND A SY 60 CONNECTOR ANYWHERE. I AM A NEWBIE TO ELECTRONICS. I KUST WANT TO STOP PEDDLING TO WORK. CAN ANYONE HERE HELP ME OUT WITH SOME TIPS AND ADVICE PLEASE. MY NEXT MOVE IS TO MAKE A VIDEO OF WHAT I GOT AND SEE IF ANYONE CAN HELP ME
Great vids, I'm just waiting for the "experts" to come in and pick holes in everything like they do every soldering vid on youtube but as far as I'm concerned, that was a more than adequate tutorial which will help people to solder to a good strong standard. I've seen some real horror jobs before now
www.ronlund.com/images/worst-solder.jpg
I agree about lead free, obviously its possible to work with it because pretty the entire electronics industry relies on it but I find it so fussy and unforgiving. It takes a ton of heat to flow and then it stays in a sort of soft, grainy paste like state for a ridiculous amount of time after you remove the heat.
Yes, some people are very OCD with stuff like this. If I was soldering an Aircraft component I'd be a bit more precise, but for this job, it's fine :)
My xt60 starts to melt before the tin does
hi way dont u use flux i do better contact with the solder
i solder bit different then u ...if u solder SILICONE wire with a very hot iron the solder will go down and under the cover and u wont be able to bend it
Flux isn't that easy to get hold of in the UK. And yes, you are correct on the Silicone insulation, good practice to Solder with the wire horizontal
The thumbnail 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Who's the pro😂😂
90a connector with 20a wire... "advice from pro"
Omg! Your solder job is terrible!
"advice from a pro"? U serious?
You cut way to much isolation off.
It sticks out from the contact points of the plug. Everybody can see this.
You heat up the connecter first, than the lead? Wtf? If you do this to long, it will melt or at least bend the plug!
Just hold your soldering iron inside the contacts and heat up the lead like this. Much faster, master less heat on the plug and no mess on the outside of the contacts!
Than do it again and stick the wire in while it's still melted and don't stop heating. This is way faster than you did! And you should always fill the contacts until the wires are INSIDE solder. Best is when you can't see the wire anymore, because it's inside the solder lead. Especially with wire this thin, compared to the contacts!
Also : "advice from a pro"... Thumbnail shows you holding the soldering iron on the metal where it would burn your fingers crispy...
Gj there m8!
A professional what? Certainly not a professional at soldering.
You talk to damn much just show us
Mute it then :)
Hey there great video! One question though - i have a lipo battery that only has the balance leads coming out of it. They are thin wires ... but no thick wires like you have ... It does have two other terminal points but they are just that (soldered points on the battery with no wires coming out of it). It is a 7.4V , 3200 mAh battery from China ... don't even have a C rating on them!
In aus our wall socket is 240v is a 60w solder the same regardless of power supply as your wall sockets are a different volts would I still need a 60w