Just wanted to leave a comment saying how much I appreciate your videos. I'm a hobbyist doing machining for fun, and your design and design process is exactly what I want to be doing.
Enjoyed this! Can I offer 1 piece of advice though dont use your hand to try and block/stop fluid leaks it only takes around 7bar to break the skin, just let em go turn off the equipment high pressure injection injuries are no joke. Alot of the time they require tissue removal or amputation. Less painful to wipe up a bit of oil.
Hello Michel, nice "modellwork". I like your approach, from my point of view a healthy mix of planning & design, followed by quick hardware realization to see what problems arise in reality. Greetings from Germany, Stefan.
Nice work and a great project 👍😀 For the best part of 20 years I worked in a hydraulic shop as a machinist / mechanic and im retired now. I am also from the Netherlands 🇳🇱. it’s nice to see that you try to make your own pump These plunjer / piston pumps can reach very high pressure and uf i can suggest you make a safety valve first to protect the pump and other parts 😀. The valve you are using is not regulating the pressure you are lucky that the electrical motor is not powerful enough . A true pressure regulator uses a spring and a tapered plunger and by adjusting the spring you can adjust the pressure. You can find examples if you google or i can help you with any tips on hydraulic stuff if you want . Can I suggest that the oil that is on the swash plate side is recirculating in the oil reservoir. This will keep fresh /clean oil flushing through the parts on that side. This oil comes from the leak around the 2 plungers. Also a fine metal mesh as filter on the suction of them pump 👍😀….pls keep sharing these great videos 👍
Dag Gert, bedankt voor je antwoord. Ik ga verder in het Engels, zodat anderen er ook wat aan hebben. That safety valve will certainly be installed, but at a different location. Indeed, that first pressure regulator was not optimal, and I have already replaced it with a tapered pin with a strong spring, and in fact I used that in the video that's why I could regulate the pressure. Still have to update the sketch However, there was no luck in play here. I first calculated the most important parameters, including the maximum pressure, before I started building. See the previous video.The swash plate is sprayed with oil every time the release valve is opened, and that oil flows back into the reservoir through a small channel. It is a bit difficult to see on the drawing, at 31:09 you see an image of the pump with both that small channel and the supply from the valve. A filter with a magnet will be placed in front of the pump's supply pipes, also something for a next video.
very nice work, most of the piston pumps I work on have a small hole drilled through to the round end of the piston and then through to the bronze cap so that as the pressure increases so does the amount of lubrication at the swash plate interface {the common site of pump failure}.
The bronze slipper cap has concentric grooves machined into its face with small gaps in each ridge to allow the cap to float on a thin layer of oil at the working pressure of the system,a look at an exploded diagram of a Rexroth piston pump such as an A10 V will be much clearer than my description,hope that helps. @@Michel-Uphoff
Nice work, I really enjoy your videos, I to am on the same path but mine is a little oriented to the artistic side and I don't want to add my voice either to the videos :)). Please keep on delighting us with your very informative and well executed projects. Best regards, Victor
Michel, that's another great video with a successful outcome, Congrats!! Instead of a "metal paste" for sealing those screws, you might want to look at the Loctite range for a "Teflon paste". I've used their "hi-pressure" version for sealing pneumatic joints without issue & it will allow for any repair work later. HTH, Colin
@@Michel-Uphoff It would seem that my earlier reply got deleted due to the link I provided...the sealant I used easily coped with 150PSI but I believe there's a "higher" pressure version called Loctite 569 that good to 2000KPa
Thank you Colin. 150 PSI and 2000KPa however is not enough. To be on the safe side, I need a seal that can withstand 300 bar. So 30000 KPa or 4500 PSI.
That's fabulous, Michael. 100 bar is nothing to sniff at, and with a beefier motor I think you'd almost certainly get better than that. Shame the first version didn't go entirely to plan, still, you could probably repurpose it as an oil circulating pump, coolant pump, or something of that type. Is there a reason you went for a piston / swash plate pump rather than the rather simpler gear pump setup?
Thank you for your comment! I considered a gear pump, but there were some disadvantages for the planned precision pump. Dosing the precise amount of oil in the pressing cylinder is difficult with a gear pump. With a plunger pump I can add one or even half a turn (roughly 0.5 cm³) and thus press the cylinder down accurately to tenths of a millimeter. The valves in this plunger pump close automatically, and so the pressure in the cylinder remains at the same level. With a gear pump I have to add valves. This pump can be built easily and reliably with modest equipment (a milling machine and a lathe). I didn't have to buy gear cutters for it. More than 100 bar is not necessary for my small press, I had calculated the motor for that (see previous video).
Where can i get a small lathe Like yours and what do i have to pay for that? I do bot think of the proxxon lathe, more of the little cutoff wheel Type with DC Motor.
My lathe is the Proxxon PD400. The price varies per country. I paid roughly € 2000 for it, but you probably want all kinds of accessories and that add up as well. Google for Proxxon PD400.
@@medienmond You mean the mini grinder at the very beginning of the video with which I cut those hardened shafts?? I built it myself. See my channel for the six videos about the construction of this tiny tool grinder.
Yes I considered it. In my opinion, gear pumps are not suitable if you want to be able to precisely dose small amounts of oil. After all, this is going to be a small precision press. But if you want more flow, and the amount of oil does not need to be precise, and you add a check valve, then a gear pump can also be used. Of course you will have to make the teeth and all fits very accurately, which is not that easy. Also see my answer at @wibblywobblyidiotvision 6 days back.
I found it on amazon and jetsinc called a JTS Hand Vise. Just bought one, and plan to drill a hole in the jaws and use it for a number of things. Glad I saw it. I'm a tool hound like most of us and said "Hey I don't have one of those". LOL...........Now I have 2. One German made and one just like that one. Yeah, I'm a tool addict........ I admit it. And I'm not even trying to cut down.🤫
Yes, that is a jeweler's vise aka a hand vise. I modified it slightly by drilling a small hole right in the center and perpendicular to the faces. I also made the wooden handle removable, so that I can clamp the round steel 'tang' of the vise into the snug of a magnetic base.
I'm not doing you any favors with my English pronunciation, but if you all could understand Dutch, it would save me a lot of extra work. My life would be so much easier. 😉
@@Michel-Uphoff Thank you kindly. Also I presume the 4"/80mm chuck from them. I don't have very accurate machines, so I'll need to watch more of your videos to see how you mounted the three jaw chuck to the tilting rotary table. Excellent video content, thanks for sharing, and greetings from Hamburg, Germany.
@@Michel-Uphoff Indeed very good machines. I have the PD400 and a smaller proxxon BFW40 mill. In hindsight I should have saved some more money and buy the FF500. Now I run sometimes out of power and table size.
@@Michel-Uphoff I'm no expert but as I saw on industrial pumps, they are also bronze. I bet its some kind of alloy with less wear, but for general use standard bronze more than enough. Also you could heat treat and grind the face of swivel plate for better wear resistance.
Just wanted to leave a comment saying how much I appreciate your videos.
I'm a hobbyist doing machining for fun, and your design and design process is exactly what I want to be doing.
Thank you!
Enjoyed this! Can I offer 1 piece of advice though dont use your hand to try and block/stop fluid leaks it only takes around 7bar to break the skin, just let em go turn off the equipment high pressure injection injuries are no joke. Alot of the time they require tissue removal or amputation. Less painful to wipe up a bit of oil.
You're right, it is very bad practice to try to stop such a leak with bare hands.
@@Michel-Uphoffyea but I can't say that my reaction would have been any different in the moment though.
Such a beatiful unit (both of them)!!! The steel, brass and the DC motor makes just the perfect blend, hydraulikpunk!
Nice watching you put things in proper order along with some interesting piano music.
Really impressive! Monkey like shiney! This is very neat.
Brilliant design and build I’ll wait and see the completion of the project as I might attempt to build a copy of your design. Thank you for sharing 😊.
Incredibly interesting and fine work! ☺️
Clever use of a tea basket.
Hello Michel, nice "modellwork". I like your approach, from my point of view a healthy mix of planning & design, followed by quick hardware realization to see what problems arise in reality. Greetings from Germany, Stefan.
Nice work and a great project 👍😀
For the best part of 20 years I worked in a hydraulic shop as a machinist / mechanic and im retired now.
I am also from the Netherlands 🇳🇱.
it’s nice to see that you try to make your own pump
These plunjer / piston pumps can reach very high pressure and uf i can suggest you make a safety valve first to protect the pump and other parts 😀.
The valve you are using is not regulating the pressure you are lucky that the electrical motor is not powerful enough .
A true pressure regulator uses a spring and a tapered plunger and by adjusting the spring you can adjust the pressure.
You can find examples if you google or i can help you with any tips on hydraulic stuff if you want .
Can I suggest that the oil that is on the swash plate side is recirculating in the oil reservoir.
This will keep fresh /clean oil flushing through the parts on that side.
This oil comes from the leak around the 2 plungers.
Also a fine metal mesh as filter on the suction of them pump
👍😀….pls keep sharing these great videos 👍
Dag Gert, bedankt voor je antwoord. Ik ga verder in het Engels, zodat anderen er ook wat aan hebben.
That safety valve will certainly be installed, but at a different location. Indeed, that first pressure regulator was not optimal, and I have already replaced it with a tapered pin with a strong spring, and in fact I used that in the video that's why I could regulate the pressure. Still have to update the sketch However, there was no luck in play here. I first calculated the most important parameters, including the maximum pressure, before I started building. See the previous video.The swash plate is sprayed with oil every time the release valve is opened, and that oil flows back into the reservoir through a small channel. It is a bit difficult to see on the drawing, at 31:09 you see an image of the pump with both that small channel and the supply from the valve. A filter with a magnet will be placed in front of the pump's supply pipes, also something for a next video.
Nice work Michel! Best, Job
Dankjewel Job 😊
Your a master craftsman sir
Looking forward to the next video
Very nice job
very nice work, most of the piston pumps I work on have a small hole drilled through to the round end of the piston and then through to the bronze cap so that as the pressure increases so does the amount of lubrication at the swash plate interface {the common site of pump failure}.
Interesting! I have some trouble to picture this. Could you elaborate?
The bronze slipper cap has concentric grooves machined into its face with small gaps in each ridge to allow the cap to float on a thin layer of oil at the working pressure of the system,a look at an exploded diagram of a Rexroth piston pump such as an A10 V will be much clearer than my description,hope that helps.
@@Michel-Uphoff
@@bigsmoke6189 Thank you.I will take a look.
Very nice...
That first song..... it's so beautiful!!! But I can't find it anywhere.... Also, love your work!
See: pixabay.com/users/innovations4u-16492502/
Nice work, I really enjoy your videos, I to am on the same path but mine is a little oriented to the artistic side and I don't want to add my voice either to the videos :)).
Please keep on delighting us with your very informative and well executed projects.
Best regards,
Victor
Lovely work! Will you be making the plans available once the design is complete? I would happily pay for a set.
Maybe I will. But first I have to produce a decent working tiny press. That will take a number of weeks.
Michel, that's another great video with a successful outcome, Congrats!!
Instead of a "metal paste" for sealing those screws, you might want to look at the Loctite range for a "Teflon paste".
I've used their "hi-pressure" version for sealing pneumatic joints without issue & it will allow for any repair work later.
HTH, Colin
Thank you Colin 😊
What pressure were those pneumatic joints exposed to?
@@Michel-Uphoff It would seem that my earlier reply got deleted due to the link I provided...the sealant I used easily coped with 150PSI but I believe there's a "higher" pressure version called Loctite 569 that good to 2000KPa
Thank you Colin. 150 PSI and 2000KPa however is not enough.
To be on the safe side, I need a seal that can withstand 300 bar. So 30000 KPa or 4500 PSI.
Great work! Very interested to see how this project turns out.
You'll have to have some patience. At the moment I am working on another project. But in a few months I will resume work on the hydraulic mini press.
That's fabulous, Michael. 100 bar is nothing to sniff at, and with a beefier motor I think you'd almost certainly get better than that. Shame the first version didn't go entirely to plan, still, you could probably repurpose it as an oil circulating pump, coolant pump, or something of that type.
Is there a reason you went for a piston / swash plate pump rather than the rather simpler gear pump setup?
Thank you for your comment!
I considered a gear pump, but there were some disadvantages for the planned precision pump.
Dosing the precise amount of oil in the pressing cylinder is difficult with a gear pump.
With a plunger pump I can add one or even half a turn (roughly 0.5 cm³) and thus press the cylinder down accurately to tenths of a millimeter.
The valves in this plunger pump close automatically, and so the pressure in the cylinder remains at the same level.
With a gear pump I have to add valves.
This pump can be built easily and reliably with modest equipment (a milling machine and a lathe).
I didn't have to buy gear cutters for it.
More than 100 bar is not necessary for my small press, I had calculated the motor for that (see previous video).
Where can i get a small lathe Like yours and what do i have to pay for that? I do bot think of the proxxon lathe, more of the little cutoff wheel Type with DC Motor.
My lathe is the Proxxon PD400. The price varies per country. I paid roughly € 2000 for it, but you probably want all kinds of accessories and that add up as well. Google for Proxxon PD400.
@@Michel-Uphoff i do mit mean the proxxon. I need that small cutoff wheel Type Thing with x/y screws to move the Part...
@@medienmond You mean the mini grinder at the very beginning of the video with which I cut those hardened shafts?? I built it myself. See my channel for the six videos about the construction of this tiny tool grinder.
Remarkable.
Nice work, what do you think about a gear pump? is it more difficult to build what do you think?
Yes I considered it.
In my opinion, gear pumps are not suitable if you want to be able to precisely dose small amounts of oil. After all, this is going to be a small precision press. But if you want more flow, and the amount of oil does not need to be precise, and you add a check valve, then a gear pump can also be used. Of course you will have to make the teeth and all fits very accurately, which is not that easy.
Also see my answer at @wibblywobblyidiotvision 6 days back.
@@Michel-Uphoff thanks 4 your answer
Perfecto!
I love that Clamp with the wooden handle on it you were using to hold the reamer. Would love to know where you got it? Great work. Loved the video.
I found it on amazon and jetsinc called a JTS Hand Vise. Just bought one, and plan to drill a hole in the jaws and use it for a number of things. Glad I saw it. I'm a tool hound like most of us and said "Hey I don't have one of those". LOL...........Now I have 2. One German made and one just like that one. Yeah, I'm a tool addict........ I admit it. And I'm not even trying to cut down.🤫
Yes, that is a jeweler's vise aka a hand vise. I modified it slightly by drilling a small hole right in the center and perpendicular to the faces. I also made the wooden handle removable, so that I can clamp the round steel 'tang' of the vise into the snug of a magnetic base.
The voice has definitely been improved :) I hope we will get a human voice one day haha
great video btw
I'm not doing you any favors with my English pronunciation, but if you all could understand Dutch, it would save me a lot of extra work. My life would be so much easier. 😉
@@Michel-Uphoff Unfortunately I only speak french, spanish and english 🙃
Did you bolt your PD400 to the wooden bench or is it just screwed to the splash guard? Very nice build btw.
No, I did not secure it, I placed a layer of thick PVC foil between the worktop and the drip tray, so that the lathe cannot move.
What little 80mm dividing apparatus is that you used to cut the drill holes around the cylinder, looks perfectly sized for min mills.
That is a Vevor 4" tilting rotary table with a 80 mm self centering 4 jaw chuck. See my review here:
th-cam.com/video/_mmUwDNqHMQ/w-d-xo.html
@@Michel-Uphoff Thank you kindly. Also I presume the 4"/80mm chuck from them. I don't have very accurate machines, so I'll need to watch more of your videos to see how you mounted the three jaw chuck to the tilting rotary table. Excellent video content, thanks for sharing, and greetings from Hamburg, Germany.
Nice work! what grade of steel did you make the body out of?
Just out of 11SMn30 (free machining steel)
be carfull trying to catch high pressure jets , they can actually penetrate the skin or in worst case cut you like a knife
Yes, I know those jets can be dangerous, but as you can see the pressure was less than 50 bar.
Are those Proxxon machines?
Yes they are. Both 'flagships' from Proxxon, the PD400 lathe and the FF500/BL mill.
@@Michel-Uphoff Indeed very good machines. I have the PD400 and a smaller proxxon BFW40 mill. In hindsight I should have saved some more money and buy the FF500. Now I run sometimes out of power and table size.
@@MrXanderjanssen You might be interested in my videos over these machines 🙂
👍
The music at 02:38 is insaaaaaaaaaanee..... 😍
Have you tried exchanging one of those steel washers with a teflon one instead? Lot less friction.
Teflon can't handle the compression forces I'm afraid. The 'pucks' are made from bronze. Bronze can handle (on average) 600 MPa, Teflon around 25.
@@Michel-Uphoff I'm no expert but as I saw on industrial pumps, they are also bronze. I bet its some kind of alloy with less wear, but for general use standard bronze more than enough. Also you could heat treat and grind the face of swivel plate for better wear resistance.