Hello my friend. Great video. I realized this video is older but I thought I would mention this for your safety. Some others have swapped out the red large Nibbi idle knob with the idle screw on the stock carb. Because the Nibbi idle knob has a tapered end and the stock carb's idle screw does not, many people have slightly damaged the slide on the Nibbi carb. When the screw off the stock carb is used rather than the Nibbi idle knob, it causes a bur to form on the slide and has, in many cases caused the throttle to stick wide open. It's recommended that if you are going to use the stock idle screw off the stock carb on the Nibbi that you grind the end of the idle screw to match the Nibbi' s profile otherwise you could experience similar issues. This is one example: Go to 14:40 on this video and watch it from there. Mike talks about the problem and how it causes his throttle to stick wide open. th-cam.com/video/G8cWFI0q088/w-d-xo.html
When you snap the throttle and it takes a min to drop back down to idle, then that means it's too lean. Then if it drops below the happy point of idle and raises back up to its happy point, you have it too rich... So I could starting point on all carburetors on any bike is about three turns to up to three and a half on both air/ fuel mixture screws.... Just thought I'd give you a good rule of thumb... " Twist It & Rip-It!! ". Be safe, and have fun Riding!! 🤙
I’ve had my X-pro Titan 250cc. Mines set up for street with Shinko 705 tire for 2 years. It’s been a solid bike for an around town commuter. I’ve had no problems with the bike to daye
There are several different engines used, the Templar "M" uses a 249cc SOHC making 19hp with a 5 speed transmission (ZONGSHEN CB249F, CB250 ), the Templar "X" uses a 249cc SOHC 19hp with a 6 speed and a counter balance shaft to reduce vibration (Zongshen PR250). The other brands like Hawk have lower powered 12-14hp engines that are still push rod OHV and are actually 223cc or 229cc and there is also some kind of fuel injected one making like 15-17hp but you can't mod that one so you're stuck with the stock performance.
that needle valve is called a metering rod the factory setting is in the middle adjustment is set for based sea level the purpose for the metering rod is made to either enrichment or to lean out fuel mixture if i recall correctly each notch for the clip that allows he needle to go down make the fuel get richer and the higher leans it out also the slide if you get it in backwards when you start it it will run wide open so be carful
Another thing that should make a huge difference is getting a new exhaust. I think that little piece in the middle is causing some type of restriction. Might be a small catalytic converter or something. I had the orion 230cc bike and it had the same exhaust. did the nibbi carb upgrade and exhaust made a huge difference.
@@josephg06 you would have to wait until you actually get a bike then get the pipe for that specific bike. I think Orion makes decatted pipes for their bikes
A PWK 28 Flat Slide would have the adjustments on the other side of the carb. Others may too. What size jet did you settle on? Spark plug test is done with a wide open throttle under load, shut down ignition, pull and examine plug. Otherwise your testing the pilot jet. I just today received my XPRO TITAN 250. I wanted the longer wheelbase and taller seat height. I think there are more after market performance goodies for the 223/232 motors too. Cams, and Big Bore kits.
Thanks for the comment, I will try what you are recommending for the test. The carb is pretty much the same the way I got it from Amazon, I just lowered the circlip on the needle 1 notch, the only other thing I will do is a high flow filter since the carb is a 30mm and the original Xpro was a 28mm and the original filter is definetely restrictive. I will post a new video after I do the filter.
Even if they don't have aftermarket parts specific for that bike you can still do like a big bore kit for a 250 cc moto,r which that is... Will technically it's 249 cc... I think the only parts that would really be specific for that bike would be the exhaust header pipe and the mono-shock...
I just watched a video where the guy swapped out the idle screw on the Nibbi carb with the stock carb idle screw. The stock idle screw actually went in farther than it should have and put an indention on his slide. Just thinking that could be an issue on your bike as well. Im about to do the Nibbi 30 swap on my Templar X right now actually. Trying to piece together the best info from multiple videos and forums
Thank you for mentioning that. The original carb idle adjust seems to have a pointy end, the Nibbi idle needle adjustment is rounded. Perhaps rounding off the end could be done if issues arise. Mine seems to be working fine. I don't mess with it a lot. (Set and forget). I typically adjust the throttle cable adjustment on perch and tighten as needed.
Didn't know that was standard practice. Consider some of the screws on this bike may not be the best , In this case I was just looking for the easiest, fastest way I suppose. Thanks for bringing up another way to do this.
@@michaelcro2941 - look for your DB- K model here (the motorcycle) xprousa.com/pages/product-support Once you find it click on the link and it will take you where the downloadable owner manuals are located. xprousa.com/pages/maintenance-for-db-k012 My model 5 speed Templar is the DB-K012, your model may be different. Parts here: xprousa.com/collections/db-k012-k5-cb250ftemplar-parts Filter here: xprousa.com/collections/db-k012-k5-cb250ftemplar-parts/products/340-905005?variant=49456609263776 Have fun.
Why not just use premium gas?!? It doesn’t cost much more it’s like $5 total the 10 cents you save using regular won’t be much savings when you blow your motor it’s not worth taking the chance
Hello my friend. Great video. I realized this video is older but I thought I would mention this for your safety. Some others have swapped out the red large Nibbi idle knob with the idle screw on the stock carb. Because the Nibbi idle knob has a tapered end and the stock carb's idle screw does not, many people have slightly damaged the slide on the Nibbi carb. When the screw off the stock carb is used rather than the Nibbi idle knob, it causes a bur to form on the slide and has, in many cases caused the throttle to stick wide open. It's recommended that if you are going to use the stock idle screw off the stock carb on the Nibbi that you grind the end of the idle screw to match the Nibbi' s profile otherwise you could experience similar issues. This is one example: Go to 14:40 on this video and watch it from there. Mike talks about the problem and how it causes his throttle to stick wide open. th-cam.com/video/G8cWFI0q088/w-d-xo.html
@@christopherfcunha - Thank you for the information.
@@pricedownmall you are very welcome.
When you snap the throttle and it takes a min to drop back down to idle, then that means it's too lean. Then if it drops below the happy point of idle and raises back up to its happy point, you have it too rich... So I could starting point on all carburetors on any bike is about three turns to up to three and a half on both air/ fuel mixture screws.... Just thought I'd give you a good rule of thumb... " Twist It & Rip-It!! ".
Be safe, and have fun Riding!! 🤙
I’ve had my X-pro Titan 250cc. Mines set up for street with Shinko 705 tire for 2 years. It’s been a solid bike for an around town commuter. I’ve had no problems with the bike to daye
There are several different engines used, the Templar "M" uses a 249cc SOHC making 19hp with a 5 speed transmission (ZONGSHEN CB249F, CB250 ), the Templar "X" uses a 249cc SOHC 19hp with a 6 speed and a counter balance shaft to reduce vibration (Zongshen PR250).
The other brands like Hawk have lower powered 12-14hp engines that are still push rod OHV and are actually 223cc or 229cc and there is also some kind of fuel injected one making like 15-17hp but you can't mod that one so you're stuck with the stock performance.
that needle valve is called a metering rod the factory setting is in the middle adjustment is set for based sea level the purpose for the metering rod is made to either enrichment or to lean out fuel mixture if i recall correctly each notch for the clip that allows he needle to go down make the fuel get richer and the higher leans it out also the slide if you get it in backwards when you start it it will run wide open so be carful
Man this is a good carb review😊
Great job, good and useful information. Keep us posted with how it holds up.
Haven’t watched the video yet but that bike is beautiful brother
Another thing that should make a huge difference is getting a new exhaust. I think that little piece in the middle is causing some type of restriction. Might be a small catalytic converter or something. I had the orion 230cc bike and it had the same exhaust. did the nibbi carb upgrade and exhaust made a huge difference.
Thanks for recommending that.
i plan on buying one of these bikes. what exhaust would u recommend
@@josephg06 you would have to wait until you actually get a bike then get the pipe for that specific bike. I think Orion makes decatted pipes for their bikes
@@JibbaTheHoot gotcha
A PWK 28 Flat Slide would have the adjustments on the other side of the carb. Others may too. What size jet did you settle on? Spark plug test is done with a wide open throttle under load, shut down ignition, pull and examine plug. Otherwise your testing the pilot jet. I just today received my XPRO TITAN 250. I wanted the longer wheelbase and taller seat height. I think there are more after market performance goodies for the 223/232 motors too. Cams, and Big Bore kits.
Thanks for the comment, I will try what you are recommending for the test. The carb is pretty much the same the way I got it from Amazon, I just lowered the circlip on the needle 1 notch, the only other thing I will do is a high flow filter since the carb is a 30mm and the original Xpro was a 28mm and the original filter is definetely restrictive. I will post a new video after I do the filter.
Even if they don't have aftermarket parts specific for that bike you can still do like a big bore kit for a 250 cc moto,r which that is... Will technically it's 249 cc... I think the only parts that would really be specific for that bike would be the exhaust header pipe and the mono-shock...
I just watched a video where the guy swapped out the idle screw on the Nibbi carb with the stock carb idle screw. The stock idle screw actually went in farther than it should have and put an indention on his slide. Just thinking that could be an issue on your bike as well. Im about to do the Nibbi 30 swap on my Templar X right now actually. Trying to piece together the best info from multiple videos and forums
Thank you for mentioning that. The original carb idle adjust seems to have a pointy end, the Nibbi idle needle adjustment is rounded. Perhaps rounding off the end could be done if issues arise. Mine seems to be working fine. I don't mess with it a lot. (Set and forget). I typically adjust the throttle cable adjustment on perch and tighten as needed.
at the end of your video you are adjusting the air not the idle screw, the idle screw is the red one.
change the idle screw back they are different and the wrong one you used can make the throttle stick open !!!! ☠☠☠☠☠☠☠👀
Can you show where the voltage regulator is, or would be
I just bought thr nibbi 28 carb looking forward
@@IForgeWeight - For the Templar? Not 30?
@@pricedownmall it's 223cc not the true 250.cc
@pricedownmall go look at my page I just built a true 250cc quaf with a nibbi 28 carb
@@IForgeWeightall templars have the “true” 250cc tho…
Look up the cb 223 titan dlx
Why not remove the rear sub-frame ,then air tube and panels are out of your way ? Standard practice in any cycle shop .
Didn't know that was standard practice. Consider some of the screws on this bike may not be the best , In this case I was just looking for the easiest, fastest way I suppose. Thanks for bringing up another way to do this.
New rider here how do i know what size air filter to buy for this bike?
@@michaelcro2941 - look for your DB- K model here (the motorcycle)
xprousa.com/pages/product-support
Once you find it click on the link and it will take you where the downloadable owner manuals are located.
xprousa.com/pages/maintenance-for-db-k012
My model 5 speed Templar is the DB-K012, your model may be different.
Parts here:
xprousa.com/collections/db-k012-k5-cb250ftemplar-parts
Filter here:
xprousa.com/collections/db-k012-k5-cb250ftemplar-parts/products/340-905005?variant=49456609263776
Have fun.
Thank you buddy
Why not just use premium gas?!? It doesn’t cost much more it’s like $5 total the 10 cents you save using regular won’t be much savings when you blow your motor it’s not worth taking the chance
@@joshhansen1749 - True, I think I ended up doing that after I adjusted the carb. Not all high octane fuel is made the same.
It’s 9:1 compression. No
Reason for high test
Came to vid to see how to take seat off and that’s the only thing he did off camera smh
10mm bolt is underneath fender, seat slides off.