Thanks so much for this video, was tearing my hair out as to why I could read/write an off the shelf 95160, but not one pulled from an ECU. Did your 5V mod and it worked. Thanks again for the super clear instructions.
hello friend I don't know it may be your case but ... I bought a ch341a and what I bought in a virtual store came with a defect ... it even programs but with a malfunction ... so ... what happens when you close the ziff socket all the pins of the ch341a zif socket meet and when he asks to program the eeprom he ch341a sometimes burns the eeprom ... as i decided ... i removed the zif socket and put in a common 16 pin socket cobe right and I managed to program you noticed this defect in yours? found out with a mult-test ... thanks
Simplified 5V mod: just add a jumper between 3.3V and 5V. That's the two pins closest to the 25xx printed diagram. The 3.3V regulator does not blow up from this. Thank you, this worked! M95160
Can you post a picture of the mod please? It would be really appreciated, I'm struggling to find a working SDM unit for my Corsa D and most sellers don't provide the security code...
No need to solder any wires, cut any tracks or lift any legs at all, I just connect another jumper on the pin header between the 3.3v and 5v rails, this effectively bypasses the 3.3v regulator providing only 5v to the ZIF socket and IC.
This is amazing thank you! Instead of busting up the CH341A unit itself. I ended up soldering wires in between the two break-out boards that came with it. For VCC 5 Volt, I just made a jumper that can be attached to the yellow 5 volt pin. Thank you again!
Same here. I had ordered some cables with famale connectors at both ends. Just hook them up onto board. For 5v, I hooked there instead of aditional board and voila. But I have question, maybe someone sees and answers. How I know if I have 8bit or 16 bit? And address length... For me,seemengly most correct one came with address length of 6. I am doing this for the first time, and for now I try only read. I need to compare the programming of instrument cluster from same car but for different engines ( different rpm and speed dials) to make may own design(I want 320 instead of 260)
Comprehensive and cohesive! Thanks. 93C66 read without errors. I soldered an old ethernet cable directly to the socket then ditched AS programmer for Neo Programmer.
Thank you so much for putting this video together. I just followed your instructions and was able to crash reset my SRS computer with a 93c66. The only issue I had was with the programmer software you provided. I was able to read but not write. Downloaded Neo Programmer and was able to write.
Thanks again for this video. You programmed a 93cxx here. I used this guide to program a 95320 today. It worked for me on the 95320 even with 3.3V. Gracias
Tried this out the other day, thanks BTW. One thing I did Different was put a hard drive jumper on the 3v/5v pins on the top. It seemed to work fine. I might still lift the 3v center leg. One heck of a learning curve for peeps like me...lol Changed a XM vin before breaking my cheep clip.
Did you still have to do the custom SOIC8 clip conversion that he did? I purchased a ch341a that came with a SOIC8 adapter. I'm assuming that because of that, I likely just have to plug it in, put the jumper on the 3v/5v pins at the top (I need 5v as well), and I should be good to go?
I wish you would make a more detailed video going over your bodge wiring technique under the pins. That process is very difficult to understand with the visual representation you provided.
Thank you for the lovely video. Worked like a dream. I was rewriting a ST 95 eeprom clearing a crash data as per your instructions by doing the hardware adoption. All went good. Keep up your hard work
Thanks for this video. I haven't flashed an eeprom since repairing Ms Pac Man PCBs, I never thought I'd be doing this again. If this works out you've saved me some big bucks by allowing to reflash a replacement SKREEM module in my Mopar and avoiding the dealership. The old saying "you can't teach an old dog new tricks" is BS. Now if I can figure out how to buy you that coffee....
Hi, Thanks for the tutorial. I've tried to do as in your video using IC FM93C46 taken from EasyTouch GCU Tester's Glucose chip, but without modifying the VCC pin. It also worked with 3.3V VCC voltage, both to read and write this chip.
Hello Dr. Shock and thank you for your videos. I have not been able to find too many videos on this subject and definitely not for a newer GM models. This is very confusing for me as I have absolutely ZERO experience with this. But I feel like you are my only hope in accomplishing what I need to accomplish. I have a 2017 Chevy Traverse and my radio died. Well, it is stuck in a constant boot loop and it occasionally works long enough for the backup camera to work and then usually shut off in the middle of backing up. The reason I am telling you this, is because it is obviously getting power, just possibly not enough power. Any, I took it into the Chevy dealer and they said the infotainment center is dead and needs to be replaced to the tune of $2900. That is not going to happen. I have searched around and found unlocked versions of mine for $600, there is a GM replacement for $1,000. Again, not going to happen. I know there are some tricky things within the system but I found a donor vehicle with a DVD and backup camera like I have, but obviously it is locked. I have a few questions for you. Is it at all possible to purchase a ch341a that has already been adapted to use the 5v for automotive uses? Also, is it possible to copy data from original chip to the donor chip? I assume I would just have to save the old info and load it onto the donor chip. Or would it be easier to just clear the donor chip? Also, do you have any thoughts on what might be causing the original board to go bad? Again, thank you for your videos that are very informative and I look forward to your response.
Thanks. Your best course of action, given what you've wrote, is to find the exact same unit (same GM part number on the white sticker from the same year and model vehicle) and just swap the EEPROM chip from the old one to the donor one. I'm not familiar with the 2017 year so I couldn't tell you which chip it is though. That will still need someone experienced in doing surface mount chip soldering. But that should get you back in business without dealing with the VIN lock or needing an EEPROM programmer. To answer the question though, there are several flavors of these CH341a programmers floating around from different Chinese manufacturers. They all look pretty much the same. But some are already 5V defaulted, though the 3.3V default like I got is the more common hence the mod vid I did.
DrShock, you have given me (51yrs old) renewed faith that i can still learn complicated things. My one question would be, what type of laptop operating system and screen size would be ideal for this type of eeprom reading/writing etc?
Thank you for this video. I have a 2016 Sierra with a Bose Amplifier module that has a internal error. I can save $300 if I can get a salvage yard amplifier module but was wondering if you knew if this eeprom tool would work on that type of system. Alternatively I can swap the chip off of the old module into the "new" module but I don't know if that would be all that's needed on a module like that and I don't want to brick my existing module since it still functions with its quirks. I do have all of the hardware to program a new module from the AC delco website, just would like to save $300. Thank you!
I'm not aware of any sort of VIN lock for an amplifier module, as long as what you are describing is a physically separate unit from the radio module itself. You shouldn't need to edit or touch the amplifier modules' circuit board, and just proceed to re-calibrating the salvage yard amplifier module with SPS2 on Techline Connect using either an MDI or MDI2 scan tool. Now, it's possible that with 2016 and other newer years GM has blocked re-using an used module of this sort within Techline Connect. That is happening more and more with the Global A and newer platforms lately. But I'm not personally familiar with this.
@@DrShock ok thank you. I'm pretty certain this is a separate module from the radio, but if I unplug the MOST bus from the amp the entire radio goes down do I will do some more digging. I am worried about bricking my truck 😂
@@DrShock You are correct. I received the module from the salvage yard today. Plugged it in and it works without programming. I also learned that I have a sub in the console that I do not remember ever working since apparently this amplifier has been non functional since I bought the truck new. I think that replacing this module cleaned up some noise over the network and now my truck shifts normally. How could that be you ask? The amplifier has a signal repeater for the cam sensor to adjust the radio volume as the vehicle accelates. So far so good. Thank you for the video, I'm not sure I would have tried the salvage yard module without it.
Thank you for pinout information, I was able to read S93C66 from my Prius Plug-in 2013 Steering Angle sensor by doing your modification to CH341A. Now I am trying to find proper .bin file for my car, tried one advice to erase portion of data with FF but now instead of reading 850 degrees it reads 0 and lost communication. Others show on video that it should have some data other than FF in the middle of the file. Some forums offer file only for members. Will do more research.
@DrShock My goal for learning this type of technical information is to make my "junkyard" purchased radio in my Chevy Caprice / Holden Commadore work in its new home. The issue for me isnt that the radio is locked but its all in one comboed with the hvac controls so i have no heat or AC at all because of this.. Ive been working on the CH341A setup i purchased from your links this weekend and had moderate success. I was able to get the software and drivers into my new laptop and successfully launched the program. Heres where i have had a few problems. After hooking up the CH341A to an 8-pin EEprom that turns out to be a 64bit chip i did successfully connect and read the chip according to the ASprogrammer software. However the first few times i read it there was no information at all displayed. Confused and somewhat disheartened i looked over how the ribbon from the "black clip on tool" to the reader was connected to insure it was indeed in the 24 slot with the #1 pinout in the correct location. Finding i had reversed the pin one i corrected this and read the chip again. Once again success, but no info at all showing in the software. It wasn't until i moved the ribbon chip pins to the 25 section of the reader that it gave me some form of info. mainly a jumbled letters and stuff along the right side of the screen. Nothing familiar or close to a VIN. So, my question to you is: 1. Could you show a proper way to set up the CH341 usb reader for use in automotive 8-pin reading? 2. Could you maybe give an overview of how to tell what type of chips we are seeing in the boards? 3. Maybe a resource of how to know what kind of chip we are seeing (vs the weird combo of numbers and letters printed on the chip) and how to correlate it with the list of chips in the software would be extremely helpful. 4.Maybe an overview of the ASprogrammer software and setting it for specific auto based uses? 5. Lastly, I recognize that you seem to be able to go straight to the chip on the board that might release the lock off the radio, how is this possible and will you teach us? I wouldn't request any of this without knowing that it requires your time and expertise of which i would gladly donate again for these questions to be answered. I bet more than just me would love the in-depth content as well. Thoughts?
There are four different EEPROMs you can encounter in automotive electronics from the 1990s thru the 20 teens. Those would be the 24XXX series, the 25XXX series, the 93XXX series, and the 95XXX series. You have to correctly identify the EEPROM you're working with, in order to get the adapter ribbon cable plugged into the correct half of the CH341a ZIF socket. Past that there is making sure you get pin 1 lined up with the red line of the ribbon cable/test clip. This is sometimes indicated on the chip by a dot or bevel. Sometimes though there's no physical indication so you have to use the meter to try and identify the pin for Vcc and Vss manually. Another caveat is very few circuit board designs can actually be read in-circuit with a testclip. The vast majority of the time, the EEPROM chip has to be desoldered from the circuit board and read/written that way. Then it can be re-installed onto the board when the reflash is completed. Finally, the cheap asian import testclips are only good for about five reads before they lose their spring tension or the tips bend. If you need do this frequently, I'd highly recommend getting a USA made Pomona Electronics brand testclip for SOIC8/SOP8 devices.
@@DrShock One chip indicates: 24c64wq top line - st208p or st288p bottom line so this would be a 24xxx series? so it would actually have 24/25/93/95 in the number printed on the chip? I think thats where most of the confusion is setting in.
That appears to be a good number yes, 24C64 is a legit EEPROM in the 24XXX series. And yes, the first two digits signify that. But it's actually kinda common for GMs suppliers like Delphi to leave these numbers off and put their own part number on it. When that happens, you need to have more experience in how to figure out what the chip type is manually by trial and error. But in your case, I would proceed with it as a 24XXX series and use the 24 half of the CH341a ZIF socket and set AsProgrammer to this specific chip type of 24C64. You should identify the manufacturer of the chip as well, by the logo silkscreened on it. As there are programming differences from supplier to supplier. AsProgrammer will provide the various chip manufacturers it supports. A good reference for the logos is how-to.fandom.com/wiki/How_to_identify_integrated_circuit_(chip)_manufacturers_by_their_logos/all_logos
Many thanks for the super well narrated video. Q: Microwire 93s56 -w is that the same as a 93C56 for data and programming. I have purchase a new Instrument cluster for my car and I need to change the the Microwire EEprom 93s56-w or program the new from the old. Im not wanting to change mileage on the odometer just copy the old info from old to new. Sorry for my ignorance, but I'm new to this.
All the input pins are already running at 5v brother. This circuit has a fault in it, it’s taking the power from the dc converter to run the ch341a chip to the input pins no matter what. You want to do a mod to make it normally run the input pins at 3v. By cutting a pin the power pin for the chip and taking power from the 3v mosfet as well as talking a line from the same 3v mosfet and putting it to pin 6. This will make your device work properly as originally documented and specified. Then you can do your mod of cutting a 3v pin and taking power from 5. I was writing this comment during this part of the video so I’m not sure if we are referring to the same pins about or not. Maybe you got lucky and got one from China that actually works the way it says but I’ve gotten around 5 and every one had the error which needed me to correct.
There are several of these Chinese designs out there, they all look alike unfortunately. Some are hard wired to 3.3VDC. Others are hardwired to 5VDC. I had the former, and that 3.3VDC is useless for automotive work hence this video.
Followed these instructions to the T on a new black edition.Turns out I had 5v on chip select and you can guess the rest on a 93c66 out of a Toyota immo. I don't know about the traces on the supplied mini board had anything to do with it but that part was left out. I cut them after the zif was killing the programmer. So now I'm back to square one with a fried chip and a car that won't start. Enlighten me on where I went wrong
In making the 93X adapter there are many approaches one might follow, and it was left to the viewer how they wanted to implement the requirements for the adapter using the datasheet crossover info presented in the vid. I went pin by pin on the adapters requirements, using Powerpoint slides I made for this starting at 1:56. If one decided to use one of those little proto boards as an initial basis to implement that info they would have to disassemble it in order to rewire each pin under a microscope to match the slides diagrams as I mentioned I did at 4:11. But this approach was just one possible example of how to go. I could only speculate were you went wrong was in making your zif adapter it did not exactly match the required crossover for each pin, based on your comment.
I did this mod, but the chip was not detected on the IC900 chip in a Lexus ECU. I followed Binh's instructions in his video, and he referenced this video, which I also referenced. When I connect to the clamp to the chip, Windows makes a ding like it recognizes being hooked up to something new, but the software doesn't recognize the chip. Do you have any tips for troubleshooting? My solder joints are probably crappy with a $6 soldering iron outside, and I have no way of knowing if the conformal could is completely removed from the IC, which is still on the PCBA. Maybe the fact Windows recognizes *something* when I connect means all the pins are making good contact. Could it be a driver issue? TIA for any tips. I'm thinking about getting the CH341A v. 1.7 because it has a 5V switch. Is that a drop in replacement for the main CH341A you modified? I presume I still have to modify the connector I install into the main board as per your instructions.
The sound from the Windows operating system has nothing to do with the EEPROM chip. That is just the USB handshake recognition from the programmer itself. In fact, for the programmer I'm showing in this video, hearing this just on connecting to a device is abnormal behavior. It's actually quite rare to be able to use a test clip on an EEPROM in circuit due to the test clip supplying power to the rest of the board inadvertently, so I'd first suggest desoldering the device from the PCB (printed circuit board) and attempting the read that way. This _IC900_ chip you mention seems to be just a 93C56 type EEPROM @ 5VDC. So you'll need to do the 5V mod to the programmer that this video goes over for the correct voltage, as well as the pinout mod so that the programmer can communicate with a 93XXX device using its native 25XXX ZIF socket interface. Lastly, you'll have to use the software I mention in this video in order for the 93XXX to be accessible using this particular programmer.
Nice and successful solution! thanks for the work you've done . Can you use a clothespin with 93xx? not using a ZIP adapter. there are simply difficulties in translating)))))
Test clip I think is what you're asking about when you say _clothespin_ adapter. You would have to make your own cross over cable to use one of those (desolder the little adapter board that usually is at the end of the cable and rewire it as shown in the video). Remember you have to get the pinout shown in the video _cleanly_ for a 93xxx, and the test clip cable will be wired for 24xxx by default.
Gaining hope as I see you repeatedly unlock radios and prep them to learn their new home. I have ordered the tools you suggested; test clip, lead wire, ch341a mini programmer and white thermal grease. Now please advise me on what software I can use on my iMac to run the programmer to get the Delphi 28379849 to mate with my 2013 Acadia. Thanks
Hello Dr Shock,Thank you very much for the good job you're doing.I was Wondering,Is there a way to write or change manually the hexadecimals on the Immobilizer file?Thank you
Thanks. The AsProgrammer software I mentioned (link in the description) handles that part, the main part of the apps window is an editor into the chips memory. So you can type over what's there and change it. It's extremely powerful, and dangerous. Be sure you know what you're changing and why, and have made a backup of the chips contents prior. You could easily _brick_ a module doing such edits.
Great Video ! Would this be a good Alternative for Service programming GM Bcm’s for 2000-2010 approximate years? Might be able to bypass tech 2 interfacing and Gm sos.
Thanks, yeah over the next couple of weeks I'll be posting some videos illustrating exactly some of those concepts, for the early to mid 2000s designs of radios, XM receivers, and BCMs using this modified programmer. The BCMs in particular of these years are locked out of SPS because the Tech2 is designed to treat them as locked once programmed, thus blocking using an used one at all. So I'll be sharing some approaches to get around that.
Dr Shock I have the black CH341A programmer and have performed the +5V out modification but cannot seem to cut the +3.3V trace as you show at the 6:50 mark in the video! The trace coming from the +3.3V pin is not visible as it is on your CH341A programmer. I'm wanting to use this programmer to change the VIN number in a GM radio I purchased from a salvage yard that is "Locked" like in your other video. What will happen if I try to use the programmer as is? Will I damage the EEPROM chip in the radio?? Your videos are excellent and informative!
It may be that they changed the circuit board layout on the latest programmer as this video is from a few years ago. You would need to take a voltmeter and see what the voltage regulator output(s) are on yours to confirm whether it's operating in a 3.3VDC or a 5VDC mode. If you do not have 5V, then you won't be able to write anything to an automotive EEPROM.
@@DrShock If I power up the programmer and measure with a voltmeter across the ground pin and the pin where the the jumper wire was added I get 5.10 volts and it also measures 5.10 volts at the +3.3V pin! So, I believe this should work for the radio........your thoughts??
That's odd for the 3.3VDC pin. I could only speculate the Chinese have broken it in the other direction now. ;-) Yeah, if that's what you're measuring no mods required.
Thank you for this video. Followed the link for the manufacturer's device driver, and seemed to install ok on my Windows10 64-bit,, but I don't see the device listed in my device manager, whether I have it plugged in, or not. Any advice?
Never mind - the device does show up, but not where you expect it. It is in DEvice Manager under "Interface." Now at least I can continue troubleshooting knowing that the driver is installed.
Hi, great vid! I've just tried this with a 93C56AE off the info Display of my wife's Opel. I wired an adapter as you described but all I got was FF everywhere regardless of whether Pin 6 was Vss or Vcc. I've just noticed on your adapter there are no signs of cut traces before you put the tiny wires around the pins. How does that work? Thanks!
Thanks, yes I _repurposed_ the small adapter board for this by cutting each of the traces that are not needed for the adapter circuit first, and then rewiring it to serve as a 93X adapter instead. I didn't show the specifics of this, as everyone may have a different approach they want to take to making their 93X adapter. I went this route as it's cosmetically cleaner, you cannot tell it was rewired because all the bodge wires are hidden underneath the black plastic of the pin connector. Either way, you definitely cannot leave the original traces in place of anything you would reuse, as that would create short circuits when laying down the 93X adapter wiring! So a couple of tips to account for reading 0xff: - Some circuit designs *cannot* be read in-circuit with a test clip, the chip has to be desoldered from the board and read off board. This is because some circuit designs will allow the test clip power line to power up additional chips, which then create bus contention to read the EEPROM blocking any reading. - Chinese import testclips are of extremely poor quality, you may have to fiddle with them a number of times to make a good connection. Be sure you have the red lined pin one of the chip in the correct orientation. USA made Pomona testclips are a huge upgrade. - Automotive EEPROMs _require_ 5VDC to be written, this is totally different than EEPROMs of the same number and type used in personal computers and consumer electronics. Many circuit designs will require the 5VDC even to read the chip. So you must make the voltage mod also when doing automotive work. - Some chips have a security feature that prevents being read, this requires additional adapter mods that are outlined in the video description. Such chips have a 93Sxxx numbering rather than 93Cxxx.
@@DrShock Very clever! Thanks for the info, it will surely be a huge help! I've tried both on the board and also desoldered it and clipped the chip in. My guess now would be that 5v mod is probably needed to read it. i'll try that next time if I don't ruin anything in the process 😅 Thanks for the info, stuff like this is really hard to come by!
@DrShock, I apologize for the late comments but I have a question @ 3:58 when you were showing your adapter. Did you have to cut the traces for the header pins to the zif socket before connecting the wires as described @ 2:05? And if that's true, do I leave pin 1 and 8 alone since they connect to the zif socket pin 1 and 8 respectively?
That little PCB shown at the time index you're asking about is just something that came for free from the seller of the particular USB EEPROM programmer I showed. It's just an experimentation board and works just fine for making the pin crossover adapter we need for this project. Yes, you cut the traces on that experimental board as needed, if you go that route, and add bodge wires to implement the adapter I showed on the slide drawing. You are only making changes to the experimental board, you don't touch the ZIF socket on the programmer. The only programmer change is related to having 5VDC.
I can see that you still reply to some comments. Legend! Well, I have a problem and need to connect to my Mazda cluster 93c56 to change the speedometer speed. I did all the stuff in the video. I'm so far that (for some reason) it doesn't work at all unless I connect the standard 25xxx ports to the USB Programmer... It doesn't get a reading at all but showing 0 everywhere is better than F I suppose? What do you think? I made sure that every connection is not hitting on some other connection and all connections are working
Try desoldering the chip from the cluster and read it off board. The test clip approach actually only works on a very narrow range of module boards. The vast majority of board designs won't respond to that approach (due to bus contention) and you have to remove the chip first.
@@DrShock even on such an old car? I never really did it and don't want to fuck it up, I mean I did solder today buuuut desoldering is different Edit: it just says check settings
Presuming you have everything else connected properly between the programmer, applicable ZIF socket position and wiring, reading all 0's usually indicates bus contention. That means that the test clip is providing power to other chips at the same time as the EEPROM due to the board design/layout. These other chips are trying to communicate while you are seeking to talk to the EEPROM. This trashes the reads and writes and forces you to remove the chip from the board to progress the issue without all that literal noise. I would verify your setup by trying to read and write a spare EEPROM of this same type on the bench, before proceeding with the cluster. If you cannot read that way, your tool setup is the problem.
@@DrShock actually big thanks for reminding me that my soldering is not the best :D It connected! But... all the things it says doesn't make any sense... It has a bunch of "+" and "/" in a row and some jubberish at the end. any idea?
You dont need to cut the pcb to remove the 3.3V You can actually jumper pins 6 -7 on the data side yellow headers basically putting 5V on the 3.3v line! You could add a switch if you like to do this. So basically keeping the 3.3V 24xxx and 25xxx capability
Sure, but this is an automotive related video. Since there's no use of 3.3V in automotive, it has no value in performing automotive module reprogramming.
Hello DrShock i did everything as in the tutorial step by step with the ch341a device ( cut the trace between 3.3v and pin 8 , solding jump wire between pin 8 and 5v and lift the middle pin) but after putting it in to the usb port window pops up "Device is not working properly" and doesn't recognise it.. where can be the problem?
Was everything working OK _before_ you made the mod? Always a good practice to have a known working setup first given the device drivers and software involved.
@@DrShock i cut the jump wire from pin8 to 5v and put it to 3.3v to restore the original trace ,solder the middle pin of the voltage regulator back and the pc recognise it immediately as before.. but i need it to work on 5v so i can read 93c56 chip
Alright, so you have gotten back to a known good state. So now, for the PC not to recognize the USB device, power to CH341A chip is likely being interrupted. There may be other, alternate, designs floating around for this inexpensive board by now (this video is several years old). Carefully trace out the regulator outputs (both 3.3V and 5V) on _your_ board and determine if they differ from the version I showed. It's also possible your later version of the board does not need this mod.
@@DrShock thank you for the help! Now i see... actually the ch341 in your video has some differents with mine 1. Your has label ch341A and mine is ch341 (without "A") 2. At your device at the opposite side of the 5v pin (1.2.3.TXD.RXD.GND.5v) mine has 1. 2. 3. TXD. RXD. GND. 3.3v So this is maybe the reason why mine is not working
ARGH!! I screwed up. I somehow managed to skip the third step in modifying the programmer. I didn't cut the 3.5v line Thank you for your excellent, clear, informative video that only a dimwit could possibly mess up! *sigh* I hope I didn't kill my EEPROM. Back to Amazon to order another CH341a board.
Sure, you could use a jumper if you think you'll need to use the programmer for non-automotive devices at some point in the future. Some newer programmer versions even already come with a jumper circuit.
I am kind of curious why one would want or need to write chips in automotive? It is an honest question, I work on PCs with this thing at 3.3 often enough but didn't think to use it on my car or truck. As someone else pointed out, it would be nice to figure out a way to bypass the need for a stupid expensive tech2 on our Saab. I'd love to also disable the annoying alarm without disabling the AC. (Stupid ass Saabs have the AC and Alarm tied together via fuse. So that isn't a pop a fuse and forget it situation). I am just curious what else could be written. Like maybe change timing, shifting ranges things like that? Disable dummy lights? shrug just guessing here.
This is a very common exercise in doing radio repair work, but also in instrument clusters and body control modules. You often need to manually re-write the VIN of the vehicle to the EEPROM to use salvage yard parts (used modules) vs buying new ones. This does not remove the need for a scan tool for diagnostics and flashing new calibrations, there's no getting around that requirement with GM vehicles. But it does allow you do things that even the Tech2 would otherwise prevent - reusing used salvage yard modules.
#DrShock I followed all your instructions even connect 5V and install driver and reader software but the CH341A brand QSKAII with test Clip for EEPROM 93c56, reads "FF FF" every time even when it shows red light and green light when reads EEPROM. Please help.
Well for the 93XXX devices you need to build the pin adapter I show in the video. This pin adapter will sit in between the 25XXX ZIF socket on the CH341A and your device. This maps the pins correctly between the two EEPROM designs. So if you have triple checked the adapter wiring, and that you have the pin 1 orientation correct, then you may have a circuit that board that cannot be read in-circuit. This is fairly common, and in which case you'll need to desolder the device and read it out of circuit instead.
Thanks Dr Shock, I finally feel like im in the home stretch. Working on a BCM for 2006 Colorado. The Eprom is a 9365217. Would that be in the 93xxx series? Just starting to the mods.
I would expect it to be a 95xxx type eeprom (perhaps a 95040). But haven't ever worked on a Colorado, so could be different. It won't be identical, different BCM model an all, but you might try my other vid here for that chip type - th-cam.com/video/0Kon-FjD0dM/w-d-xo.html
Great video and explanation. I am waiting for my programmer to show up from the slow boat out of China. Could this process be used to change the VIN on a locked HMI module or MyLink radio? GM SPS does not seem to work for junkyard pulls.
Possibly, depends on the module really. The newer stuff is harder to do this low level way than the older vehicle modules. I can't speak to anything newer than 2012, but for that and older you can usually work at the EEPROM level for most things. Hardest part is knowing where to look, sometimes have to rely on members only forums for that info.
DrShock....I did the mod and checked it several times to make sure it is correct. I can't read anything but 0's from the chip. F's if there is no chip in the pinch(pomona style) clip. I have 3 ch341a black devices. I modified the second one as per your vid., but still can't read the 95080 chip. After looking at a schematic for the CH341a and it looks like the same thing can be accomplished by removing the 3.3v regulator and place a shunt across the 3.3 and 5v pins. This puts 5v on the vcc pins . I will only be using this on automotive eeproms. I still get the same thing when I read the chip. 0's. I've ordered some fresh 95080 chips for play but they haven't arrived yet. Any ideas why I can't read anything but 0's?
@@DrShock I have two chips 1001xxx Delphi chip and 95080 chip from two different BCMs. Both are removed from the boards. Using the right out of the box adapter and ribbon cable with pomona style clip, I can read both chips. I can't read them if f I use the modified adapter. I didn't try to read them in circuit. My point is, my CH341a programmers do not need a modified adapter.
The little board shown at that time index was just a spare prototyping board I had lying round, that I used as an illustrative example to implement the adapter wiring diagram shown earlier in the video. You can use whatever you want to implement the adapter or even just wire wrap something temporarily.
@@DrShockhi mate I bought the whole kit on ebay and I have your idem little Board. If you have an email address I can send you some pictures. I hope it helps me to read this eeprom. Thanks
I'm not familiar with a 94xxx series eeprom working with this programmer or not. The AsProgrammer software also has no support for any 94xxx devices. You sure you are reading the number correctly?
After following your guide, unfortunately, I was unable to read the 93c86 on my KESSY module for my Volkswagen Phaeton, even after desoldering the chip and reading out of the circuit, is there something I'm missing? I tied pin 6 to ground, then I tried to pin 6 to VCC as recommended for 16bit, even when the 93c should be 8bit like you said, and still nothing, using the CH341a and Dupont connectors to wire everything non-permanently, triple checked everything, using 5v yellow pinout for VCC voltage at 5v, could this be the issue? the other non-VCC pins are still 3.3v, but even then I still should be able to read the EEPROM, could also maybe be that the EEPROM is fried? i also tried to read the donor board's EEPROM out of the circuit and resulted in the same error in As programmer, IC not responding, ive also had so many CH341a drivers installed from previous bios flashing on tons of motherboards, so maybe one could be interfering? should I try a virgin windows environment? Thank you. i also tried using the spare little board to wire the connections permanently onto the board, still using (confirmed) 5v from the yellow pin and still, nothing, might buy another CH341a to mod, as my original was modded from 5v to 3.3v (reverse from what is done in this vid as mine was faulty from factory, would output 9v on 5v pin). tried a fresh 341a from one of my buddies, brand new from the bag, could read 25wxx chips just fine, but same result for trying to read EEPROM from kessy, 93c86. Help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
My initial reaction is some short occurring in your implementation of the pin adapter I go over in the video, or installing it in the wrong section of the programmers ZIF socket. For a 93XXX adapter, it has to plug into the 25XXX section of the ZIF socket, same as with a 95XXX. Do no use the 24XXX section of the ZIF. Another possibility, though you don't mention any "S" in the part number, is a security type of EEPROM. In the description, I go over the additional wiring needed for this type of device to be read/written successfully. Otherwise, I'd offer the following basic guide of problem elimination: - Verify you have the CH341a setup properly by just reading (and writing) a vanilla 24XXXX and 25XXX device. This insures both the CH341a hardware is OK, and that you have the AsProgrammer software correctly installed along with the USB drivers for Windows. - _Carefully_ re-review the 93XXX pinout adapter implementation you have. There should be *zero* bodge wires and/or traces other than those shown in the video slides. Otherwise there will be shorts. Verify that you are getting the correct +5VDC (not +3.3VDC as that 3.3V will not power up an automotive 93XXX correctly) at your adapter on the power pin. Verify the ground pin of your pinout adapter also by using it alone to measure the +5VDC. - Verify that the version of AsProgrammer you are using is the one I recommended, or higher, *only* as earlier versions of that software had severe bugs and would fail to read 93XXX and 95XXX devices. - Try to read a 95XXX device, as this would verify you have the right level of AsProgrammer installed. I hope these steps help. Unless you have an "S" version chip, the problem reading two 93XXX's in a row is most certainly in your setup (presuming of course the chip is an actual 93XXX and marked as such on the silkscreening).
Thanks for this, I have made the modifications and can successfully read a RH56 chip (M93C56) 16bit. However I cannot write to it, Asprogrammer just hangs when attempting to write. I checked the voltage when connected up and measure 4.8v. What are some possible trouble shooting areas? Thanks
@@DrShock Same result. But I believe I have a firmware or driver issue. ASProgrammer V2.0.03a will read but not write using CH34A1 Hardware option. V2.1.0.13 will not work at all on either hardware option.
I need your help pls, would swapping the 93c56 EEPROM from an old bad ECU to a new replacement work with the old keys? Logically I thought it would but I thought I need to ask a specialist, the car is a Lexus is200, both ECUs have the same part no btw
I typically only work on GM modules, and could only say for those that a chip swap between the same part number modules would be fine. For a Lexus, I would expect similar behavior but can't say for sure.
I built this adaptor just like you did and I ohmed it out to make usre it all matched once i was done. However when i go to read a 93c76 8 bit i get a "microwire ic not responding check setting" error. When i put the chip in and plug the unit it both led lights are on and ideas???
The circuit you are attempting to use the test clip on (presuming this is what you meant by "clamp") is likely drawing excessive current. You need to cease using the testclip, and instead desolder the device off the board and examine/program it outside the circuit if so.
Hello. Thank you so much for useful guide. I have a question. I removed voltage regulator for +5V modification. And I shorted voltage regulator's IN and ADJ pad. Does this cause a problem ?
If your Black Edition is like the one I show in the video, this regulator is only for the 3.3V as the USB is supplying regulated 5VDC from the PC connection so it's not needed. But the ADJ is pin 1 on that regulator, and it's probably tied to ground (I don't have the schematic for this Black Edition to confirm) so I wouldn't suggest doing that not knowing. Just leave it as I showed it with pin 2 OUT raised.
There's no voltage select "jumper" on this particular programmer. That's one obvious reason for the bodge wire add. You have to address *both* power up to the device _and_ the programming voltage pulse output. Automotive grade requires 5V for both. Cutting the circuit board trace and bodge wiring it covers just the power up. We need to insure no use of 3.3V sourced for programming so we lift the regulator as well (while not all black edition PCBs are the same I show both mods for completeness).
Haha yeah same exact pins but reverse… so I wonder if they did your changes after you posted this 2 years ago because they all come running 5v across everything like you show doing as the hardware mod, I guess the software mod was too hard for them or they got it wrong because I’ve had to reverse what you have done here obviously by my previous comment
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks so much for this video, was tearing my hair out as to why I could read/write an off the shelf 95160, but not one pulled from an ECU. Did your 5V mod and it worked. Thanks again for the super clear instructions.
hello friend I don't know it may be your case but ... I bought a ch341a and what I bought in a virtual store came with a defect ... it even programs but with a malfunction ... so ... what happens when you close the ziff socket all the pins of the ch341a zif socket meet and when he asks to program the eeprom he ch341a sometimes burns the eeprom ... as i decided ... i removed the zif socket and put in a common 16 pin socket cobe right and I managed to program you noticed this defect in yours? found out with a mult-test ... thanks
@@sjoseph35san34 I've not seen this defect before, probably just a defective low end Chinese ZIF socket.
@@DrShock ok thanks
@@DrShock im brazilian thks so much
Simplified 5V mod: just add a jumper between 3.3V and 5V. That's the two pins closest to the 25xx printed diagram. The 3.3V regulator does not blow up from this.
Thank you, this worked! M95160
ou 341 green
Can you post a picture of the mod please? It would be really appreciated, I'm struggling to find a working SDM unit for my Corsa D and most sellers don't provide the security code...
No need to solder any wires, cut any tracks or lift any legs at all, I just connect another jumper on the pin header between the 3.3v and 5v rails, this effectively bypasses the 3.3v regulator providing only 5v to the ZIF socket and IC.
thanks steve can you post a pic of your jumper set up
Great. Could you show a picture how to do it easier?
Any pictures on where you put the jumper?
whatt phot pic ?
how?
This is amazing thank you!
Instead of busting up the CH341A unit itself. I ended up soldering wires in between the two break-out boards that came with it.
For VCC 5 Volt, I just made a jumper that can be attached to the yellow 5 volt pin.
Thank you again!
Same here. I had ordered some cables with famale connectors at both ends. Just hook them up onto board. For 5v, I hooked there instead of aditional board and voila.
But I have question, maybe someone sees and answers. How I know if I have 8bit or 16 bit? And address length... For me,seemengly most correct one came with address length of 6.
I am doing this for the first time, and for now I try only read. I need to compare the programming of instrument cluster from same car but for different engines ( different rpm and speed dials) to make may own design(I want 320 instead of 260)
Easiest way might be to power up the circuit and check and see whether that’s high or low on that pin
Comprehensive and cohesive! Thanks. 93C66 read without errors. I soldered an old ethernet cable directly to the socket then ditched AS programmer for Neo Programmer.
hi, do you have a photo of your setup?
I have succesfully read an ST 95080 eeprom from a Magnet Marelli IAW-4MW ECU with this modification. Thank you!
Good
Did you use chine programmer
Thank you so much for putting this video together. I just followed your instructions and was able to crash reset my SRS computer with a 93c66. The only issue I had was with the programmer software you provided. I was able to read but not write. Downloaded Neo Programmer and was able to write.
what a life saver. ive been using ponyprog over serial. my desktop died and i needed to write an 93c56 from my laptop. this saved the day.
Thanks again for this video. You programmed a 93cxx here.
I used this guide to program a 95320 today. It worked for me on the 95320 even with 3.3V.
Gracias
Thank you for this. Was able to program 16bit 93C56 EEPROM with your instructions.
Thanks for your detailed work here. I was able to swap out the Alarm module on my '01 Boxter using this modded programmer. Saved about $1000
its work with u?
Great info. I have not done this stuff in years and getting back to my EE roots.
Good thing I watched this vid. Was able to cancel my order. I didn't read the description that this does not support 9346 ic
Tried this out the other day, thanks BTW.
One thing I did Different was put a hard drive jumper on the 3v/5v pins on the top. It seemed to work fine. I might still lift the 3v center leg.
One heck of a learning curve for peeps like me...lol Changed a XM vin before breaking my cheep clip.
Did you still have to do the custom SOIC8 clip conversion that he did? I purchased a ch341a that came with a SOIC8 adapter. I'm assuming that because of that, I likely just have to plug it in, put the jumper on the 3v/5v pins at the top (I need 5v as well), and I should be good to go?
I jumped across the regulator, Vin to Vout basically (5V to 3V) by installing the jumper. I got 5V and yea h it seems like it would work correct?
thanks for the video, the information about 8 or 16 bit for the 93 was very useful
I'm very Happy I found your channel. I love finding new ways to smoke control modules... Cant wait to try this out.. Thank you!
Good bless you and your family really work well on automotive eeproms
I wish you would make a more detailed video going over your bodge wiring technique under the pins. That process is very difficult to understand with the visual representation you provided.
Extremely detailed and super useful info. You are the greatest! Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for that link.
There's lots of other useful info on that site.. Gracias
Work for me thanks i read first 95640 eprom vw blankpunk
Great video, just got one of these for Mother Board bios or Hard drive read, didn't know it had more uses, this should save people a lot of time & $.
Brilliant ! 🤔😏👌👍
Added to my playlist.
Thank you for the lovely video. Worked like a dream. I was rewriting a ST 95 eeprom clearing a crash data as per your instructions by doing the hardware adoption. All went good. Keep up your hard work
Did you have to modify the adaptor for the 95xx too or was that just for the 93xx chips? Cheers
Thanks a lot from Czech !!
Thank you for this very informative video 👍
Works Gread Thanks for this tutorial Video.
당신은 천재에요
You Are my heroooo , thanks and g😊d bless you
Thanks for this video. I haven't flashed an eeprom since repairing Ms Pac Man PCBs, I never thought I'd be doing this again.
If this works out you've saved me some big bucks by allowing to reflash a replacement SKREEM module in my Mopar and avoiding the dealership.
The old saying "you can't teach an old dog new tricks" is BS. Now if I can figure out how to buy you that coffee....
Hi, Thanks for the tutorial. I've tried to do as in your video using IC FM93C46 taken from EasyTouch GCU Tester's Glucose chip, but without modifying the VCC pin. It also worked with 3.3V VCC voltage, both to read and write this chip.
That would be a non-automotive application, so as expected. Consumer electronics use 3.3V devices. Automotive use 5V devices.
@@DrShock OK, thanks
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, the tip was very helpful.
man you are a genius
thank you sir, fixed my car
Thanks so much...solve my problem..best regard
Very helpful thanks
You are awesome! Thank you!
Thanks. I did it and it works.
Thank you very much for video.
very handy information.
Thank's nice tutorial...
Thanks bro it's working well thank a lot
Hello Dr. Shock and thank you for your videos. I have not been able to find too many videos on this subject and definitely not for a newer GM models. This is very confusing for me as I have absolutely ZERO experience with this. But I feel like you are my only hope in accomplishing what I need to accomplish. I have a 2017 Chevy Traverse and my radio died. Well, it is stuck in a constant boot loop and it occasionally works long enough for the backup camera to work and then usually shut off in the middle of backing up. The reason I am telling you this, is because it is obviously getting power, just possibly not enough power. Any, I took it into the Chevy dealer and they said the infotainment center is dead and needs to be replaced to the tune of $2900. That is not going to happen. I have searched around and found unlocked versions of mine for $600, there is a GM replacement for $1,000. Again, not going to happen. I know there are some tricky things within the system but I found a donor vehicle with a DVD and backup camera like I have, but obviously it is locked. I have a few questions for you. Is it at all possible to purchase a ch341a that has already been adapted to use the 5v for automotive uses? Also, is it possible to copy data from original chip to the donor chip? I assume I would just have to save the old info and load it onto the donor chip. Or would it be easier to just clear the donor chip? Also, do you have any thoughts on what might be causing the original board to go bad? Again, thank you for your videos that are very informative and I look forward to your response.
Thanks. Your best course of action, given what you've wrote, is to find the exact same unit (same GM part number on the white sticker from the same year and model vehicle) and just swap the EEPROM chip from the old one to the donor one. I'm not familiar with the 2017 year so I couldn't tell you which chip it is though.
That will still need someone experienced in doing surface mount chip soldering. But that should get you back in business without dealing with the VIN lock or needing an EEPROM programmer.
To answer the question though, there are several flavors of these CH341a programmers floating around from different Chinese manufacturers. They all look pretty much the same. But some are already 5V defaulted, though the 3.3V default like I got is the more common hence the mod vid I did.
Very useful video👍
Nice video. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for this video!
congratulations, your video is the best. i have a cuestion: the pin 6 and pin 5 of 93xx are conected? thanks for your work. grettings from argentina!
thanks, it depends on the device you are working with and its use of the ORG pin 6, so you may want to rewatch this part at 2:52
thanks for this video !
everything works . thx
DrShock, you have given me (51yrs old) renewed faith that i can still learn complicated things. My one question would be, what type of laptop operating system and screen size would be ideal for this type of eeprom reading/writing etc?
I think any laptop 13" screen size and up would be fine. Has to be Windows tho, as there's not _good_ software for doing this on MacOS or ChromeOS.
@@DrShock much obliged my friend. I made sure to purchase a t-shirt today as so many of your videos do help me figure these crazy things out!
Thank you for this video. I have a 2016 Sierra with a Bose Amplifier module that has a internal error. I can save $300 if I can get a salvage yard amplifier module but was wondering if you knew if this eeprom tool would work on that type of system. Alternatively I can swap the chip off of the old module into the "new" module but I don't know if that would be all that's needed on a module like that and I don't want to brick my existing module since it still functions with its quirks. I do have all of the hardware to program a new module from the AC delco website, just would like to save $300. Thank you!
I'm not aware of any sort of VIN lock for an amplifier module, as long as what you are describing is a physically separate unit from the radio module itself. You shouldn't need to edit or touch the amplifier modules' circuit board, and just proceed to re-calibrating the salvage yard amplifier module with SPS2 on Techline Connect using either an MDI or MDI2 scan tool.
Now, it's possible that with 2016 and other newer years GM has blocked re-using an used module of this sort within Techline Connect. That is happening more and more with the Global A and newer platforms lately. But I'm not personally familiar with this.
@@DrShock ok thank you. I'm pretty certain this is a separate module from the radio, but if I unplug the MOST bus from the amp the entire radio goes down do I will do some more digging. I am worried about bricking my truck 😂
@@DrShock You are correct. I received the module from the salvage yard today. Plugged it in and it works without programming. I also learned that I have a sub in the console that I do not remember ever working since apparently this amplifier has been non functional since I bought the truck new. I think that replacing this module cleaned up some noise over the network and now my truck shifts normally. How could that be you ask? The amplifier has a signal repeater for the cam sensor to adjust the radio volume as the vehicle accelates. So far so good. Thank you for the video, I'm not sure I would have tried the salvage yard module without it.
Thank you for pinout information, I was able to read S93C66 from my Prius Plug-in 2013 Steering Angle sensor by doing your modification to CH341A. Now I am trying to find proper .bin file for my car, tried one advice to erase portion of data with FF but now instead of reading 850 degrees it reads 0 and lost communication. Others show on video that it should have some data other than FF in the middle of the file. Some forums offer file only for members. Will do more research.
Tq so mu h sir it is very very usefull for me
Thanks Man,
@DrShock My goal for learning this type of technical information is to make my "junkyard" purchased radio in my Chevy Caprice / Holden Commadore work in its new home. The issue for me isnt that the radio is locked but its all in one comboed with the hvac controls so i have no heat or AC at all because of this..
Ive been working on the CH341A setup i purchased from your links this weekend and had moderate success. I was able to get the software and drivers into my new laptop and successfully launched the program. Heres where i have had a few problems. After hooking up the CH341A to an 8-pin EEprom that turns out to be a 64bit chip i did successfully connect and read the chip according to the ASprogrammer software.
However the first few times i read it there was no information at all displayed. Confused and somewhat disheartened i looked over how the ribbon from the "black clip on tool" to the reader was connected to insure it was indeed in the 24 slot with the #1 pinout in the correct location. Finding i had reversed the pin one i corrected this and read the chip again. Once again success, but no info at all showing in the software. It wasn't until i moved the ribbon chip pins to the 25 section of the reader that it gave me some form of info. mainly a jumbled letters and stuff along the right side of the screen. Nothing familiar or close to a VIN.
So, my question to you is:
1. Could you show a proper way to set up the CH341 usb reader for use in automotive 8-pin reading?
2. Could you maybe give an overview of how to tell what type of chips we are seeing in the boards?
3. Maybe a resource of how to know what kind of chip we are seeing (vs the weird combo of numbers and letters printed on the chip) and how to correlate it with the list of chips in the software would be extremely helpful.
4.Maybe an overview of the ASprogrammer software and setting it for specific auto based uses?
5. Lastly, I recognize that you seem to be able to go straight to the chip on the board that might release the lock off the radio, how is this possible and will you teach us?
I wouldn't request any of this without knowing that it requires your time and expertise of which i would gladly donate again for these questions to be answered. I bet more than just me would love the in-depth content as well. Thoughts?
There are four different EEPROMs you can encounter in automotive electronics from the 1990s thru the 20 teens. Those would be the 24XXX series, the 25XXX series, the 93XXX series, and the 95XXX series. You have to correctly identify the EEPROM you're working with, in order to get the adapter ribbon cable plugged into the correct half of the CH341a ZIF socket.
Past that there is making sure you get pin 1 lined up with the red line of the ribbon cable/test clip. This is sometimes indicated on the chip by a dot or bevel. Sometimes though there's no physical indication so you have to use the meter to try and identify the pin for Vcc and Vss manually.
Another caveat is very few circuit board designs can actually be read in-circuit with a testclip. The vast majority of the time, the EEPROM chip has to be desoldered from the circuit board and read/written that way. Then it can be re-installed onto the board when the reflash is completed.
Finally, the cheap asian import testclips are only good for about five reads before they lose their spring tension or the tips bend. If you need do this frequently, I'd highly recommend getting a USA made Pomona Electronics brand testclip for SOIC8/SOP8 devices.
@@DrShock One chip indicates: 24c64wq top line - st208p or st288p bottom line so this would be a 24xxx series? so it would actually have 24/25/93/95 in the number printed on the chip? I think thats where most of the confusion is setting in.
That appears to be a good number yes, 24C64 is a legit EEPROM in the 24XXX series. And yes, the first two digits signify that. But it's actually kinda common for GMs suppliers like Delphi to leave these numbers off and put their own part number on it. When that happens, you need to have more experience in how to figure out what the chip type is manually by trial and error.
But in your case, I would proceed with it as a 24XXX series and use the 24 half of the CH341a ZIF socket and set AsProgrammer to this specific chip type of 24C64. You should identify the manufacturer of the chip as well, by the logo silkscreened on it. As there are programming differences from supplier to supplier. AsProgrammer will provide the various chip manufacturers it supports. A good reference for the logos is how-to.fandom.com/wiki/How_to_identify_integrated_circuit_(chip)_manufacturers_by_their_logos/all_logos
@@DrShock Thank you for your help. Trial and error has been my greatest teacher along my life.
Many thanks for the super well narrated video. Q: Microwire 93s56 -w is that the same as a 93C56 for data and programming. I have purchase a new Instrument cluster for my car and I need to change the the Microwire EEprom 93s56-w or program the new from the old. Im not wanting to change mileage on the odometer just copy the old info from old to new. Sorry for my ignorance, but I'm new to this.
Thanks. Almost, the "S" indicates it is a security featured device, check the video description for some additional tips with these types.
Perfect video!
By the way 25 series and 95 are spi, not sip. SPI for serial peripheral interface.
Aaa..where you been before,thanks
Great .Tnks.
All the input pins are already running at 5v brother. This circuit has a fault in it, it’s taking the power from the dc converter to run the ch341a chip to the input pins no matter what. You want to do a mod to make it normally run the input pins at 3v. By cutting a pin the power pin for the chip and taking power from the 3v mosfet as well as talking a line from the same 3v mosfet and putting it to pin 6. This will make your device work properly as originally documented and specified. Then you can do your mod of cutting a 3v pin and taking power from 5. I was writing this comment during this part of the video so I’m not sure if we are referring to the same pins about or not. Maybe you got lucky and got one from China that actually works the way it says but I’ve gotten around 5 and every one had the error which needed me to correct.
There are several of these Chinese designs out there, they all look alike unfortunately. Some are hard wired to 3.3VDC. Others are hardwired to 5VDC. I had the former, and that 3.3VDC is useless for automotive work hence this video.
Followed these instructions to the T on a new black edition.Turns out I had 5v on chip select and you can guess the rest on a 93c66 out of a Toyota immo. I don't know about the traces on the supplied mini board had anything to do with it but that part was left out. I cut them after the zif was killing the programmer. So now I'm back to square one with a fried chip and a car that won't start. Enlighten me on where I went wrong
In making the 93X adapter there are many approaches one might follow, and it was left to the viewer how they wanted to implement the requirements for the adapter using the datasheet crossover info presented in the vid. I went pin by pin on the adapters requirements, using Powerpoint slides I made for this starting at 1:56. If one decided to use one of those little proto boards as an initial basis to implement that info they would have to disassemble it in order to rewire each pin under a microscope to match the slides diagrams as I mentioned I did at 4:11. But this approach was just one possible example of how to go. I could only speculate were you went wrong was in making your zif adapter it did not exactly match the required crossover for each pin, based on your comment.
thanks for video
Cool
It seems like the software in the description turned into NeoProgrammer now
I did this mod, but the chip was not detected on the IC900 chip in a Lexus ECU. I followed Binh's instructions in his video, and he referenced this video, which I also referenced.
When I connect to the clamp to the chip, Windows makes a ding like it recognizes being hooked up to something new, but the software doesn't recognize the chip.
Do you have any tips for troubleshooting? My solder joints are probably crappy with a $6 soldering iron outside, and I have no way of knowing if the conformal could is completely removed from the IC, which is still on the PCBA. Maybe the fact Windows recognizes *something* when I connect means all the pins are making good contact. Could it be a driver issue? TIA for any tips. I'm thinking about getting the CH341A v. 1.7 because it has a 5V switch. Is that a drop in replacement for the main CH341A you modified? I presume I still have to modify the connector I install into the main board as per your instructions.
The sound from the Windows operating system has nothing to do with the EEPROM chip. That is just the USB handshake recognition from the programmer itself. In fact, for the programmer I'm showing in this video, hearing this just on connecting to a device is abnormal behavior.
It's actually quite rare to be able to use a test clip on an EEPROM in circuit due to the test clip supplying power to the rest of the board inadvertently, so I'd first suggest desoldering the device from the PCB (printed circuit board) and attempting the read that way.
This _IC900_ chip you mention seems to be just a 93C56 type EEPROM @ 5VDC. So you'll need to do the 5V mod to the programmer that this video goes over for the correct voltage, as well as the pinout mod so that the programmer can communicate with a 93XXX device using its native 25XXX ZIF socket interface. Lastly, you'll have to use the software I mention in this video in order for the 93XXX to be accessible using this particular programmer.
We’re you ever able to figure this out ?
Nice and successful solution! thanks for the work you've done . Can you use a clothespin with 93xx? not using a ZIP adapter.
there are simply difficulties in translating)))))
Test clip I think is what you're asking about when you say _clothespin_ adapter. You would have to make your own cross over cable to use one of those (desolder the little adapter board that usually is at the end of the cable and rewire it as shown in the video). Remember you have to get the pinout shown in the video _cleanly_ for a 93xxx, and the test clip cable will be wired for 24xxx by default.
Gaining hope as I see you repeatedly unlock radios and prep them to learn their new home. I have ordered the tools you suggested; test clip, lead wire, ch341a mini programmer and white thermal grease. Now please advise me on what software I can use on my iMac to run the programmer to get the Delphi 28379849 to mate with my 2013 Acadia.
Thanks
Sadly, I'm not aware of _any_ software that exists for MacOS which supports this particular chip programmer.
Hello Dr Shock,Thank you very much for the good job you're doing.I was Wondering,Is there a way to write or change manually the hexadecimals on the Immobilizer file?Thank you
Thanks. The AsProgrammer software I mentioned (link in the description) handles that part, the main part of the apps window is an editor into the chips memory. So you can type over what's there and change it. It's extremely powerful, and dangerous. Be sure you know what you're changing and why, and have made a backup of the chips contents prior. You could easily _brick_ a module doing such edits.
Great Video ! Would this be a good Alternative for Service programming GM Bcm’s for 2000-2010 approximate years? Might be able to bypass tech 2 interfacing and Gm sos.
Thanks, yeah over the next couple of weeks I'll be posting some videos illustrating exactly some of those concepts, for the early to mid 2000s designs of radios, XM receivers, and BCMs using this modified programmer. The BCMs in particular of these years are locked out of SPS because the Tech2 is designed to treat them as locked once programmed, thus blocking using an used one at all. So I'll be sharing some approaches to get around that.
DrShock Can you please teach how you modify it? I don't know where to start. How did you connect/modify the traces?
Dr Shock I have the black CH341A programmer and have performed the +5V out modification but cannot seem to cut the +3.3V trace as you show at the 6:50 mark in the video! The trace coming from the +3.3V pin is not visible as it is on your CH341A programmer. I'm wanting to use this programmer to change the VIN number in a GM radio I purchased from a salvage yard that is "Locked" like in your other video. What will happen if I try to use the programmer as is? Will I damage the EEPROM chip in the radio?? Your videos are excellent and informative!
It may be that they changed the circuit board layout on the latest programmer as this video is from a few years ago. You would need to take a voltmeter and see what the voltage regulator output(s) are on yours to confirm whether it's operating in a 3.3VDC or a 5VDC mode. If you do not have 5V, then you won't be able to write anything to an automotive EEPROM.
@@DrShock If I power up the programmer and measure with a voltmeter across the ground pin and the pin where the the jumper wire was added I get 5.10 volts and it also measures 5.10 volts at the +3.3V pin! So, I believe this should work for the radio........your thoughts??
That's odd for the 3.3VDC pin. I could only speculate the Chinese have broken it in the other direction now. ;-) Yeah, if that's what you're measuring no mods required.
Thank you for this video. Followed the link for the manufacturer's device driver, and seemed to install ok on my Windows10 64-bit,, but I don't see the device listed in my device manager, whether I have it plugged in, or not. Any advice?
Never mind - the device does show up, but not where you expect it. It is in DEvice Manager under "Interface." Now at least I can continue troubleshooting knowing that the driver is installed.
Hi, great vid! I've just tried this with a 93C56AE off the info Display of my wife's Opel. I wired an adapter as you described but all I got was FF everywhere regardless of whether Pin 6 was Vss or Vcc.
I've just noticed on your adapter there are no signs of cut traces before you put the tiny wires around the pins. How does that work?
Thanks!
Thanks, yes I _repurposed_ the small adapter board for this by cutting each of the traces that are not needed for the adapter circuit first, and then rewiring it to serve as a 93X adapter instead. I didn't show the specifics of this, as everyone may have a different approach they want to take to making their 93X adapter. I went this route as it's cosmetically cleaner, you cannot tell it was rewired because all the bodge wires are hidden underneath the black plastic of the pin connector. Either way, you definitely cannot leave the original traces in place of anything you would reuse, as that would create short circuits when laying down the 93X adapter wiring!
So a couple of tips to account for reading 0xff:
- Some circuit designs *cannot* be read in-circuit with a test clip, the chip has to be desoldered from the board and read off board. This is because some circuit designs will allow the test clip power line to power up additional chips, which then create bus contention to read the EEPROM blocking any reading.
- Chinese import testclips are of extremely poor quality, you may have to fiddle with them a number of times to make a good connection. Be sure you have the red lined pin one of the chip in the correct orientation. USA made Pomona testclips are a huge upgrade.
- Automotive EEPROMs _require_ 5VDC to be written, this is totally different than EEPROMs of the same number and type used in personal computers and consumer electronics. Many circuit designs will require the 5VDC even to read the chip. So you must make the voltage mod also when doing automotive work.
- Some chips have a security feature that prevents being read, this requires additional adapter mods that are outlined in the video description. Such chips have a 93Sxxx numbering rather than 93Cxxx.
@@DrShock Very clever!
Thanks for the info, it will surely be a huge help! I've tried both on the board and also desoldered it and clipped the chip in. My guess now would be that 5v mod is probably needed to read it. i'll try that next time if I don't ruin anything in the process 😅
Thanks for the info, stuff like this is really hard to come by!
@DrShock, I apologize for the late comments but I have a question @ 3:58 when you were showing your adapter. Did you have to cut the traces for the header pins to the zif socket before connecting the wires as described @ 2:05? And if that's true, do I leave pin 1 and 8 alone since they connect to the zif socket pin 1 and 8 respectively?
That little PCB shown at the time index you're asking about is just something that came for free from the seller of the particular USB EEPROM programmer I showed. It's just an experimentation board and works just fine for making the pin crossover adapter we need for this project. Yes, you cut the traces on that experimental board as needed, if you go that route, and add bodge wires to implement the adapter I showed on the slide drawing. You are only making changes to the experimental board, you don't touch the ZIF socket on the programmer. The only programmer change is related to having 5VDC.
@@DrShock Thank you for the helpful tip! That definitely steered me in the right direction. Cheers~ 👍👏👏
How can use RXD TXD GND point by usb programmer 341a please one video upload
I can see that you still reply to some comments. Legend!
Well, I have a problem and need to connect to my Mazda cluster 93c56 to change the speedometer speed. I did all the stuff in the video. I'm so far that (for some reason) it doesn't work at all unless I connect the standard 25xxx ports to the USB Programmer... It doesn't get a reading at all but showing 0 everywhere is better than F I suppose?
What do you think? I made sure that every connection is not hitting on some other connection and all connections are working
Try desoldering the chip from the cluster and read it off board. The test clip approach actually only works on a very narrow range of module boards. The vast majority of board designs won't respond to that approach (due to bus contention) and you have to remove the chip first.
@@DrShock even on such an old car? I never really did it and don't want to fuck it up, I mean I did solder today buuuut desoldering is different
Edit: it just says check settings
@@DrShock well I desoldered the chip just now and... its not really working :/
Presuming you have everything else connected properly between the programmer, applicable ZIF socket position and wiring, reading all 0's usually indicates bus contention. That means that the test clip is providing power to other chips at the same time as the EEPROM due to the board design/layout.
These other chips are trying to communicate while you are seeking to talk to the EEPROM. This trashes the reads and writes and forces you to remove the chip from the board to progress the issue without all that literal noise.
I would verify your setup by trying to read and write a spare EEPROM of this same type on the bench, before proceeding with the cluster. If you cannot read that way, your tool setup is the problem.
@@DrShock actually big thanks for reminding me that my soldering is not the best :D It connected! But... all the things it says doesn't make any sense... It has a bunch of "+" and "/" in a row and some jubberish at the end. any idea?
hi sir, do you know about a good free o cheaper mileage calculator? or someone who do it cheaper
You dont need to cut the pcb to remove the 3.3V You can actually jumper pins 6 -7 on the data side yellow headers basically putting 5V on the 3.3v line! You could add a switch if you like to do this. So basically keeping the 3.3V 24xxx and 25xxx capability
Sure, but this is an automotive related video. Since there's no use of 3.3V in automotive, it has no value in performing automotive module reprogramming.
Hello DrShock i did everything as in the tutorial step by step with the ch341a device ( cut the trace between 3.3v and pin 8 , solding jump wire between pin 8 and 5v and lift the middle pin) but after putting it in to the usb port window pops up "Device is not working properly" and doesn't recognise it.. where can be the problem?
Was everything working OK _before_ you made the mod? Always a good practice to have a known working setup first given the device drivers and software involved.
@@DrShock i cut the jump wire from pin8 to 5v and put it to 3.3v to restore the original trace ,solder the middle pin of the voltage regulator back and the pc recognise it immediately as before.. but i need it to work on 5v so i can read 93c56 chip
Alright, so you have gotten back to a known good state. So now, for the PC not to recognize the USB device, power to CH341A chip is likely being interrupted. There may be other, alternate, designs floating around for this inexpensive board by now (this video is several years old). Carefully trace out the regulator outputs (both 3.3V and 5V) on _your_ board and determine if they differ from the version I showed. It's also possible your later version of the board does not need this mod.
@@DrShock thank you for the help! Now i see... actually the ch341 in your video has some differents with mine
1. Your has label ch341A and mine is ch341 (without "A")
2. At your device at the opposite side of the 5v pin (1.2.3.TXD.RXD.GND.5v) mine has 1. 2. 3. TXD. RXD. GND. 3.3v
So this is maybe the reason why mine is not working
I cannot get this too work. I can read, verify, blank check, and erase, but cannot write 93c46 eeprom.
ARGH!! I screwed up. I somehow managed to skip the third step in modifying the programmer. I didn't cut the 3.5v line
Thank you for your excellent, clear, informative video that only a dimwit could possibly mess up!
*sigh* I hope I didn't kill my EEPROM. Back to Amazon to order another CH341a board.
what did it do to your board? I have one that i didnt cut the 3.5 v line but it didnt cause any damage
What if just connect 5v and 3,3v pins with jumper? The question is only if to remove stabilizer or leave it on the PCB...
Sure, you could use a jumper if you think you'll need to use the programmer for non-automotive devices at some point in the future. Some newer programmer versions even already come with a jumper circuit.
I am kind of curious why one would want or need to write chips in automotive? It is an honest question, I work on PCs with this thing at 3.3 often enough but didn't think to use it on my car or truck. As someone else pointed out, it would be nice to figure out a way to bypass the need for a stupid expensive tech2 on our Saab. I'd love to also disable the annoying alarm without disabling the AC. (Stupid ass Saabs have the AC and Alarm tied together via fuse. So that isn't a pop a fuse and forget it situation). I am just curious what else could be written. Like maybe change timing, shifting ranges things like that? Disable dummy lights? shrug just guessing here.
This is a very common exercise in doing radio repair work, but also in instrument clusters and body control modules. You often need to manually re-write the VIN of the vehicle to the EEPROM to use salvage yard parts (used modules) vs buying new ones. This does not remove the need for a scan tool for diagnostics and flashing new calibrations, there's no getting around that requirement with GM vehicles. But it does allow you do things that even the Tech2 would otherwise prevent - reusing used salvage yard modules.
#DrShock I followed all your instructions even connect 5V and install driver and reader software but the CH341A brand QSKAII with test Clip for EEPROM 93c56, reads "FF FF" every time even when it shows red light and green light when reads EEPROM. Please help.
Well for the 93XXX devices you need to build the pin adapter I show in the video. This pin adapter will sit in between the 25XXX ZIF socket on the CH341A and your device. This maps the pins correctly between the two EEPROM designs. So if you have triple checked the adapter wiring, and that you have the pin 1 orientation correct, then you may have a circuit that board that cannot be read in-circuit. This is fairly common, and in which case you'll need to desolder the device and read it out of circuit instead.
Can we program 3-wire serial? I have programmed Microwire, but what about 3-wire serial?
That would be an algorithm function of the software used with this programmer, not of the programmer hardware itself. So the answer is _it depends_
Thanks Dr Shock, I finally feel like im in the home stretch. Working on a BCM for 2006 Colorado. The Eprom is a 9365217. Would that be in the 93xxx series? Just starting to the mods.
I would expect it to be a 95xxx type eeprom (perhaps a 95040). But haven't ever worked on a Colorado, so could be different. It won't be identical, different BCM model an all, but you might try my other vid here for that chip type - th-cam.com/video/0Kon-FjD0dM/w-d-xo.html
Do you have a clip or adapter that will work with A86D (93C86) that is MSOP8 size?
Why choose 16bit and not 8bit with the 93C series?
Great video and explanation. I am waiting for my programmer to show up from the slow boat out of China. Could this process be used to change the VIN on a locked HMI module or MyLink radio? GM SPS does not seem to work for junkyard pulls.
Possibly, depends on the module really. The newer stuff is harder to do this low level way than the older vehicle modules. I can't speak to anything newer than 2012, but for that and older you can usually work at the EEPROM level for most things. Hardest part is knowing where to look, sometimes have to rely on members only forums for that info.
DrShock....I did the mod and checked it several times to make sure it is correct. I can't read anything but 0's from the chip. F's if there is no chip in the pinch(pomona style) clip. I have 3 ch341a black devices. I modified the second one as per your vid., but still can't read the 95080 chip. After looking at a schematic for the CH341a and it looks like the same thing can be accomplished by removing the 3.3v regulator and place a shunt across the 3.3 and 5v pins. This puts 5v on the vcc pins . I will only be using this on automotive eeproms. I still get the same thing when I read the chip. 0's. I've ordered some fresh 95080 chips for play but they haven't arrived yet. Any ideas why I can't read anything but 0's?
You trying to read this 95080 desoldered from the board or in-circuit? If the later, remove it from the board and re-try.
@@DrShock I have two chips 1001xxx Delphi chip and 95080 chip from two different BCMs. Both are removed from the boards. Using the right out of the box adapter and ribbon cable with pomona style clip, I can read both chips. I can't read them if f I use the modified adapter. I didn't try to read them in circuit.
My point is, my CH341a programmers do not need a modified adapter.
Hi mate, I'm italian. Not have understend in 4.33 minutes, where to solder the pin 2 to pin 5 or pin 6. Thanks
The little board shown at that time index was just a spare prototyping board I had lying round, that I used as an illustrative example to implement the adapter wiring diagram shown earlier in the video. You can use whatever you want to implement the adapter or even just wire wrap something temporarily.
@@DrShockhi mate I bought the whole kit on ebay and I have your idem little Board. If you have an email address I can send you some pictures. I hope it helps me to read this eeprom. Thanks
Hi mate. I have eeprom model 94320. For read this eeprom is idem the procedure for 95320? Thanks
I'm not familiar with a 94xxx series eeprom working with this programmer or not. The AsProgrammer software also has no support for any 94xxx devices.
You sure you are reading the number correctly?
@@DrShock yes mate. I have read correctly the number. This eeprom there is into a radio blaupunkt
👍
After following your guide, unfortunately, I was unable to read the 93c86 on my KESSY module for my Volkswagen Phaeton, even after desoldering the chip and reading out of the circuit, is there something I'm missing? I tied pin 6 to ground, then I tried to pin 6 to VCC as recommended for 16bit, even when the 93c should be 8bit like you said, and still nothing, using the CH341a and Dupont connectors to wire everything non-permanently, triple checked everything, using 5v yellow pinout for VCC voltage at 5v, could this be the issue? the other non-VCC pins are still 3.3v, but even then I still should be able to read the EEPROM, could also maybe be that the EEPROM is fried? i also tried to read the donor board's EEPROM out of the circuit and resulted in the same error in As programmer, IC not responding, ive also had so many CH341a drivers installed from previous bios flashing on tons of motherboards, so maybe one could be interfering? should I try a virgin windows environment?
Thank you. i also tried using the spare little board to wire the connections permanently onto the board, still using (confirmed) 5v from the yellow pin and still, nothing, might buy another CH341a to mod, as my original was modded from 5v to 3.3v (reverse from what is done in this vid as mine was faulty from factory, would output 9v on 5v pin).
tried a fresh 341a from one of my buddies, brand new from the bag, could read 25wxx chips just fine, but same result for trying to read EEPROM from kessy, 93c86.
Help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
My initial reaction is some short occurring in your implementation of the pin adapter I go over in the video, or installing it in the wrong section of the programmers ZIF socket. For a 93XXX adapter, it has to plug into the 25XXX section of the ZIF socket, same as with a 95XXX. Do no use the 24XXX section of the ZIF.
Another possibility, though you don't mention any "S" in the part number, is a security type of EEPROM. In the description, I go over the additional wiring needed for this type of device to be read/written successfully.
Otherwise, I'd offer the following basic guide of problem elimination:
- Verify you have the CH341a setup properly by just reading (and writing) a vanilla 24XXXX and 25XXX device. This insures both the CH341a hardware is OK, and that you have the AsProgrammer software correctly installed along with the USB drivers for Windows.
- _Carefully_ re-review the 93XXX pinout adapter implementation you have. There should be *zero* bodge wires and/or traces other than those shown in the video slides. Otherwise there will be shorts. Verify that you are getting the correct +5VDC (not +3.3VDC as that 3.3V will not power up an automotive 93XXX correctly) at your adapter on the power pin. Verify the ground pin of your pinout adapter also by using it alone to measure the +5VDC.
- Verify that the version of AsProgrammer you are using is the one I recommended, or higher, *only* as earlier versions of that software had severe bugs and would fail to read 93XXX and 95XXX devices.
- Try to read a 95XXX device, as this would verify you have the right level of AsProgrammer installed.
I hope these steps help. Unless you have an "S" version chip, the problem reading two 93XXX's in a row is most certainly in your setup (presuming of course the chip is an actual 93XXX and marked as such on the silkscreening).
Thanks for this, I have made the modifications and can successfully read a RH56 chip (M93C56) 16bit. However I cannot write to it, Asprogrammer just hangs when attempting to write. I checked the voltage when connected up and measure 4.8v. What are some possible trouble shooting areas? Thanks
If you're still working with a testclip, I would try desoldering the device from the PCB and programming it off board first.
@@DrShock Same result. But I believe I have a firmware or driver issue. ASProgrammer V2.0.03a will read but not write using CH34A1 Hardware option. V2.1.0.13 will not work at all on either hardware option.
I need your help pls, would swapping the 93c56 EEPROM from an old bad ECU to a new replacement work with the old keys? Logically I thought it would but I thought I need to ask a specialist, the car is a Lexus is200, both ECUs have the same part no btw
I typically only work on GM modules, and could only say for those that a chip swap between the same part number modules would be fine. For a Lexus, I would expect similar behavior but can't say for sure.
@@DrShock Thanks, I appreciate it, there's only one way to know then..
I built this adaptor just like you did and I ohmed it out to make usre it all matched once i was done. However when i go to read a 93c76 8 bit i get a "microwire ic not responding check setting" error. When i put the chip in and plug the unit it both led lights are on and ideas???
If you are attempting to read the still chip soldered in the circuit with a test clip, you might try desoldering it and reading it on its own instead.
My usb port and the ch341 chip become very hot when i use the clamp. Do you have an explanation? My ch 341a is not modified at time.
The circuit you are attempting to use the test clip on (presuming this is what you meant by "clamp") is likely drawing excessive current. You need to cease using the testclip, and instead desolder the device off the board and examine/program it outside the circuit if so.
@@DrShock yes it's the test clip (I'm not English native, I'm a froggy). Thank you for your answer.
Hello. Thank you so much for useful guide. I have a question. I removed voltage regulator for +5V modification. And I shorted voltage regulator's IN and ADJ pad.
Does this cause a problem ?
If your Black Edition is like the one I show in the video, this regulator is only for the 3.3V as the USB is supplying regulated 5VDC from the PC connection so it's not needed. But the ADJ is pin 1 on that regulator, and it's probably tied to ground (I don't have the schematic for this Black Edition to confirm) so I wouldn't suggest doing that not knowing. Just leave it as I showed it with pin 2 OUT raised.
@@DrShock i read eeprom today. Thank you so much again :)
There's no voltage select "jumper" on this particular programmer. That's one obvious reason for the bodge wire add. You have to address *both* power up to the device _and_ the programming voltage pulse output. Automotive grade requires 5V for both. Cutting the circuit board trace and bodge wiring it covers just the power up. We need to insure no use of 3.3V sourced for programming so we lift the regulator as well (while not all black edition PCBs are the same I show both mods for completeness).
Haha yeah same exact pins but reverse… so I wonder if they did your changes after you posted this 2 years ago because they all come running 5v across everything like you show doing as the hardware mod, I guess the software mod was too hard for them or they got it wrong because I’ve had to reverse what you have done here obviously by my previous comment