This was going on with my fridge after a power outage fried the control board and made the water dispenser run randomly without any provocation which unbeknownst to me created a pool in that panels pocket. Fast forward a few months and all the sudden the lights weren’t working and the water dispenser stopped too. I was completely perplexed as to how the two were connected but it happened at the same time so I knew they were. This video helped me figure it out just now and now I have lights and water again. Thank you so much!!!!
Have you tried unplugging it for 5-10 minutes I’ll check your model number and see if has an inverter, I might be the main board. If you are able to get a video and email it or upload it to TH-cam and let know
If it can help, I had the same issue, it was not the controller but the black wire under the drawer that is broken. Need to remove the side bracket and replace the harness W10512203.
Will this cause the whole unit to run warm? Have this same fridge and the top won’t cool below 40 when set to 33 and the freezer stays around 10 when set to 0. Just noticed I have no lights on the board working. No signs of ice in the fridge condenser.
You might have a bad fan, bad damper , evaporator fan is backwards , the drain tube is clogged up or is missing. If you have a video you , you can upload it to TH-cam and send me the link
@@appliancerepairshorts I’m getting good airflow through the top vent in fridge, after unplugging that board overnight the freezer is now cooling to zero but fridge is still 40°. I was planning on replacing the fan/thermostat assembly thinking it might have a bad thermistor but just noticed this drawer panel has no lights working. Going to confirm it’s getting power and then order a replacement.
@ when you say top vent , are you referring to the vent on the top left in the front? If so, that is your ice maker fan. Your evaporator fan is in the bottom center and blows air vertically. So if you are not feeling air, push in the door switches and feel. It is pretty strong. You can also put it in service mode and select #3or 4 . I don’t remember, but start at 1 and wait a second to you can test everything. You can find your tech sheet on top of the hinge cap
@ didn’t have power to deliboard so I pulled the harness and it had 4 broken wires. Now I have power but still no cooling below 40 when set to 33. Everything seems to works fine, tested fans in menu and everything runs. I think it’s a bad thermistor so it doesn’t know the temps inside. Compressor cycles on and off fine
@@appliancerepairshorts replaced the fan/temp sensors in the fridge after fixing the deli board wire harness didnt change the cooling. Still not cooling before 40 degrees. Really seamed like it was a sensor issue since everything cycles and it cools perfectly and quickly to 40 and then just turns off before getting to the set point. Not sure what else i could swap at this point other then a main board.
This was going on with my fridge after a power outage fried the control board and made the water dispenser run randomly without any provocation which unbeknownst to me created a pool in that panels pocket. Fast forward a few months and all the sudden the lights weren’t working and the water dispenser stopped too. I was completely perplexed as to how the two were connected but it happened at the same time so I knew they were. This video helped me figure it out just now and now I have lights and water again. Thank you so much!!!!
Have you tried unplugging it for 5-10 minutes I’ll check your model number and see if has an inverter, I might be the main board. If you are able to get a video and email it or upload it to TH-cam and let know
If it can help, I had the same issue, it was not the controller but the black wire under the drawer that is broken. Need to remove the side bracket and replace the harness W10512203.
Yes good point, I have ran into that before. Also the deli board board will cause the unit not to turn on- the compressor and lights
Will this cause the whole unit to run warm? Have this same fridge and the top won’t cool below 40 when set to 33 and the freezer stays around 10 when set to 0. Just noticed I have no lights on the board working. No signs of ice in the fridge condenser.
You might have a bad fan, bad damper , evaporator fan is backwards , the drain tube is clogged up or is missing. If you have a video you , you can upload it to TH-cam and send me the link
@@appliancerepairshorts I’m getting good airflow through the top vent in fridge, after unplugging that board overnight the freezer is now cooling to zero but fridge is still 40°. I was planning on replacing the fan/thermostat assembly thinking it might have a bad thermistor but just noticed this drawer panel has no lights working. Going to confirm it’s getting power and then order a replacement.
@ when you say top vent , are you referring to the vent on the top left in the front? If so, that is your ice maker fan. Your evaporator fan is in the bottom center and blows air vertically. So if you are not feeling air, push in the door switches and feel. It is pretty strong. You can also put it in service mode and select #3or 4 . I don’t remember, but start at 1 and wait a second to you can test everything. You can find your tech sheet on top of the hinge cap
@ didn’t have power to deliboard so I pulled the harness and it had 4 broken wires. Now I have power but still no cooling below 40 when set to 33. Everything seems to works fine, tested fans in menu and everything runs. I think it’s a bad thermistor so it doesn’t know the temps inside. Compressor cycles on and off fine
@@appliancerepairshorts replaced the fan/temp sensors in the fridge after fixing the deli board wire harness didnt change the cooling. Still not cooling before 40 degrees. Really seamed like it was a sensor issue since everything cycles and it cools perfectly and quickly to 40 and then just turns off before getting to the set point. Not sure what else i could swap at this point other then a main board.