Great video sir. The way you explained how the ammeter works gave me a whole new under standing on how my car works now thank you very much look forward to many more vids. What type of 50 amp fuse do you recommend that you use.
The 50-amp circuit breaker mentioned in the video is a fairly common 12-48VDC marine circuit breaker. To be clear, it’s not part of the charging system, it protects added power wiring for the optional trunk mounted amplifier.
Does the breaker need to go to a power source. Like the battery,and is the amplifier an extra thing added or is that considered the power source. Sorry if this seems like a dumd question
@@seanbullock1422 The amplifier and breaker are not stock loads, it’s an added aftermarket load. Suggest watching the video again, no loads should be added to the battery with this charging system. The suggested Amp breaker install gets its power on the alternator output wire as diagramed.
Wow! that was the best ammeter vid I have ever seen ! Topic of the day ,….working on my 75 Dodge Tradesman van. (Shorty❤) I have had issues with MSD box not seeing consistent 12 V with a mysterious voltage drop through the electrical at start . Tried everything under the sun , relay to MSD ….. On Delay device to fan , Thought there might be a back feed drop throughout the Alt diode ?? Then decided to keep ammeter and do the fleet bypass . Your version putting the load in front of the Ammeter looks better but at least I paralleled the system . Unraveled a taped connection on the old main feed and discovered 😅a hacked butt connector was bad, causing the whole main splice to be choked off. MSD holds power better now at start and elec fan drawing away amps seems bat is holding its charge now . Only small concern is a pulsating ammeter like a heartbeat worth a couple amps moving needle unnaturally. Whoever had been under dash for emergency repair once before ,….did not have double nuts on ammeter studs I learned from your vid . I think I might have had the connection wrong and overtightend primary holding nut . Need to go back now and take a second look at it again. Thank you very much for explaining !
Thanks, I believe that van may have the column mounted ignition switch as well, if so and it has the Molex connector at the bottom of the column, be sure to see my video on the Molex connector for that ignition switch. Lots of voltage drop potential there. th-cam.com/video/cr541LwlqxY/w-d-xo.html
I want to thank you for taking the time to explain this system in such detail.. Where can I find these schematics to refer to when I take on my wiring projects and or trying to troubleshoot something? Appreciate you posting this information! 👍
Thanks, If you go over to to the For B-bodies Only forum, go to Electrical, look for a thread there with this same name, I have links to the slides I made for this video linked there. Tried to link them here, wouldn't let me do it.
Good morning. I assume that running a wire directly from the alternator to the battery to allow a path to charger the battery directly while being effective would make the amp meter not register correctly?
Effective at what exactly? The engine compartment bypass described would indeed be effective at defeating the purpose and function of the original ammeter, as designed, as the full charging/discharging current would no longer be routed through the ammeter as intended. To be clear, these types of modifications are excluded from the subject of this video, loading this charging system in its original state, retaining a fully functional ammeter.
I understand. I was asking while this is an effective way to recharge the battery without pulling as much load through the firewall the gauge would no longer be accurate.
@@jamesloizos439 The described by-pass is promoted by many as a fix, I consider it more of a band aid approach to high resistance issues in the original charge path. One thing not mentioned by most is the need for a fusible link at the battery on this added by-pass run, no greater size/rating than the original fusible link if there are no other wire size upgrades. Without this circuit protection on the by-pass run at the battery, all factory un-fused wiring will have full access to the full current potential of the battery in the event of a short.
I agree. Everything must be fused. I was just trying to think of the best way to add a few relays without mounting anything to my firewall, fender aprons or near the battery. I had planned to mount everything to my rad support.
Best explanation I've see thus far. Thank you for the education.
Great video sir. The way you explained how the ammeter works gave me a whole new under standing on how my car works now thank you very much look forward to many more vids. What type of 50 amp fuse do you recommend that you use.
The 50-amp circuit breaker mentioned in the video is a fairly common 12-48VDC marine circuit breaker. To be clear, it’s not part of the charging system, it protects added power wiring for the optional trunk mounted amplifier.
Does the breaker need to go to a power source. Like the battery,and is the amplifier an extra thing added or is that considered the power source. Sorry if this seems like a dumd question
@@seanbullock1422 The amplifier and breaker are not stock loads, it’s an added aftermarket load. Suggest watching the video again, no loads should be added to the battery with this charging system. The suggested Amp breaker install gets its power on the alternator output wire as diagramed.
@@72roadrunnergtx Thank you very much for your time i am learning a lot from your content. If you put out more i cant wait.
Wow! that was the best ammeter vid I have ever seen ! Topic of the day ,….working on my 75 Dodge Tradesman van. (Shorty❤) I have had issues with MSD box not seeing consistent 12 V with a mysterious voltage drop through the electrical at start . Tried everything under the sun , relay to MSD ….. On Delay device to fan , Thought there might be a back feed drop throughout the Alt diode ?? Then decided to keep ammeter and do the fleet bypass . Your version putting the load in front of the Ammeter looks better but at least I paralleled the system . Unraveled a taped connection on the old main feed and discovered 😅a hacked butt connector was bad, causing the whole main splice to be choked off. MSD holds power better now at start and elec fan drawing away amps seems bat is holding its charge now . Only small concern is a pulsating ammeter like a heartbeat worth a couple amps moving needle unnaturally. Whoever had been under dash for emergency repair once before ,….did not have double nuts on ammeter studs I learned from your vid . I think I might have had the connection wrong and overtightend primary holding nut . Need to go back now and take a second look at it again. Thank you very much for explaining !
Thanks, I believe that van may have the column mounted ignition switch as well, if so and it has the Molex connector at the bottom of the column, be sure to see my video on the Molex connector for that ignition switch. Lots of voltage drop potential there. th-cam.com/video/cr541LwlqxY/w-d-xo.html
I want to thank you for taking the time to explain this system in such detail..
Where can I find these schematics to refer to when I take on my wiring projects and or trying to troubleshoot something?
Appreciate you posting this information! 👍
Thanks, If you go over to to the For B-bodies Only forum, go to Electrical, look for a thread there with this same name, I have links to the slides I made for this video linked there. Tried to link them here, wouldn't let me do it.
Was able to get the slide links added here in the description.
Good morning. I assume that running a wire directly from the alternator to the battery to allow a path to charger the battery directly while being effective would make the amp meter not register correctly?
Effective at what exactly? The engine compartment bypass described would indeed be effective at defeating the purpose and function of the original ammeter, as designed, as the full charging/discharging current would no longer be routed through the ammeter as intended. To be clear, these types of modifications are excluded from the subject of this video, loading this charging system in its original state, retaining a fully functional ammeter.
I understand. I was asking while this is an effective way to recharge the battery without pulling as much load through the firewall the gauge would no longer be accurate.
@@jamesloizos439 The described by-pass is promoted by many as a fix, I consider it more of a band aid approach to high resistance issues in the original charge path. One thing not mentioned by most is the need for a fusible link at the battery on this added by-pass run, no greater size/rating than the original fusible link if there are no other wire size upgrades. Without this circuit protection on the by-pass run at the battery, all factory un-fused wiring will have full access to the full current potential of the battery in the event of a short.
I agree. Everything must be fused. I was just trying to think of the best way to add a few relays without mounting anything to my firewall, fender aprons or near the battery. I had planned to mount everything to my rad support.