Hello Alex, I was wondering what 70 meant on the silicone oil. When I search I found terms like CPS and CST ranging from 100 to 1000. What is equivalent to what you used?
Awesome tip. I got a MV quantum+ and I was wondering which oil grade comes in the diffs. I am not tryinf to achieve anything, just want to grease the thing with the proper WT. Same as factory.
I am so sorry I have just seen this comment… Having opened the diffs on mine, it came with this blue grease in the diff rather than silicone oil. So if you want factory stuff in there, just use lithium grease. :)
How has this held up Alex? Have you bashed it hard and does it hold up? Ive seen very mixed reviews of this truck and don't know if it's worth a buy. I can get one right now for about $280 shipped 🤔
Ok firstly just wanted to say sorry for the lack of response I legitimately only saw this now! It's a good truck and for the money it's fun. It's not indestructible so it depends what you intend to do with it? The lower arms will break first and the rear wing is very weak I've found! However on 3s (with Metsafil lower arms) it fills my needs nicely with only small jumps. I've seen cracks in the body shell forming too but that's only cosmetic. It's worth noting that I've seen other TH-camrs who bash harder than me have broken the shock shafts, turnbuckles, lower arms, rear wing and drive cups do wear out if 3s is used. In fairness, the drive cups wear out on most models anyway.
I'd say $280 (which is £220 in my country) is not a bad price mate however it is a little cheaper over here at £199.00 ($252.55). I got mine used for £100 ($126.91) in mint condition.
Also, I mentioned the weak body shells, there is two things you can do about that: 1. Use shoe goo and drywall tape on the inside of the body or gorilla tape to strengthen it (I used gorilla tape and it still has cracked but not as badly as some) 2. Or you can purchase and paint a clear HD shell that Maverick makes. I've seen a review of one of them on TH-cam and apparently it's much thicker.
Hello mate. Im going to buy this car very soon, and i was thinking... Since this is my first real rc: Should i buy 2s batteries (to get more mAh + cheaper) instead of 3s? Or is it better to buy straight 3s but just use the speed limiter on controller until i get used to it? Thanks on advance.
Sorry for the delayed response!! I would say get 3s for extra power! 2s is a little pants on this car. It’s better to have more fun for a shorter amount of time!
@@itsalexplayz2782 no problem mate. I went with 3s and glad I did 👍 waiting for spring to ride it more. Now just inside tracks with my b64 😁 but the little ive driven this quantum+ it seems damn fun 🔥
nice one!
Thanks!
Hello Alex, I was wondering what 70 meant on the silicone oil. When I search I found terms like CPS and CST ranging from 100 to 1000. What is equivalent to what you used?
Awesome tip. I got a MV quantum+ and I was wondering which oil grade comes in the diffs. I am not tryinf to achieve anything, just want to grease the thing with the proper WT. Same as factory.
I am so sorry I have just seen this comment… Having opened the diffs on mine, it came with this blue grease in the diff rather than silicone oil. So if you want factory stuff in there, just use lithium grease. :)
@@itsalexplayz2782 Thanks Alex.
How has this held up Alex? Have you bashed it hard and does it hold up? Ive seen very mixed reviews of this truck and don't know if it's worth a buy. I can get one right now for about $280 shipped 🤔
Ok firstly just wanted to say sorry for the lack of response I legitimately only saw this now! It's a good truck and for the money it's fun. It's not indestructible so it depends what you intend to do with it? The lower arms will break first and the rear wing is very weak I've found! However on 3s (with Metsafil lower arms) it fills my needs nicely with only small jumps. I've seen cracks in the body shell forming too but that's only cosmetic. It's worth noting that I've seen other TH-camrs who bash harder than me have broken the shock shafts, turnbuckles, lower arms, rear wing and drive cups do wear out if 3s is used. In fairness, the drive cups wear out on most models anyway.
I'd say $280 (which is £220 in my country) is not a bad price mate however it is a little cheaper over here at £199.00 ($252.55). I got mine used for £100 ($126.91) in mint condition.
Also, I mentioned the weak body shells, there is two things you can do about that:
1. Use shoe goo and drywall tape on the inside of the body or gorilla tape to strengthen it (I used gorilla tape and it still has cracked but not as badly as some)
2. Or you can purchase and paint a clear HD shell that Maverick makes. I've seen a review of one of them on TH-cam and apparently it's much thicker.
Hello mate. Im going to buy this car very soon, and i was thinking... Since this is my first real rc:
Should i buy 2s batteries (to get more mAh + cheaper) instead of 3s? Or is it better to buy straight 3s but just use the speed limiter on controller until i get used to it? Thanks on advance.
Sorry for the delayed response!! I would say get 3s for extra power! 2s is a little pants on this car. It’s better to have more fun for a shorter amount of time!
@@itsalexplayz2782 no problem mate. I went with 3s and glad I did 👍 waiting for spring to ride it more. Now just inside tracks with my b64 😁 but the little ive driven this quantum+ it seems damn fun 🔥