Wooden Window Muntin Bars - Custom Moulding Work
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.พ. 2022
- BECOME A MEMBER OF FINISH CARPENTRY TV:
/ @finishcarpentrytv
GLUE I USE: finishcarpentry.tv
INSTAGRAM: / finishcarpentrytv
EVERY TOOL I USE: www.amazon.com/shop/finishcar...
DeWALT LASER LEVEL I USE: amzn.to/2FI8Td1
STUD FINDER I USE(FAVORITE): amzn.to/30moWXq
FAVORITE TRIM NAIL GUN(MILWAUKEE 18): amzn.to/37Rr3F2
MAIN MITER SAW: amzn.to/2SML4bF
ONLY UTILITY KNIFE I ABSOLUTELY LOVE: amzn.to/39GGYIb
MY TRACK SAW: amzn.to/36rLYy3
SMALL MITER SAW: amzn.to/36kkJWj
SLIDING MITER SAW: amzn.to/39yYo9w
GET A SHIRT HERE: finishcarpentry.tv/
EVERY TOOL I USE: www.amazon.com/shop/finishcar...
VIDEO/CAMERA GEAR*
MAIN CAMERA: amzn.to/2Kk1Tan
LENS: amzn.to/2MReIej
SMALL CAMERA: amzn.to/2KlLbr3
MIC: amzn.to/2Kkbj5O
DRONE: amzn.to/2IPsby0
www.dfwcrownmoulding.com
*above are affiliate links - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![DIY Double Insulated Glass || Save Money [How To]](/img/n.gif)
That Vegas joke came out no where. I loved it!
You are now a true cabinet maker/ designer…. I am so happy that your doing this, keep the trade going.
Its so satisfying that workers keep thriving to do a great job. Thanks Rich, I have been doing this for 47 years ……..reach out if you need to.
Loved your previous job site vids tons… but this content is even more fun in my opinion. Hand made old school doors from scratch with second-hand vintage glass. Heck yea
That music you played during the routing footage was perfect. Your router table was singing with it man, beautiful.
All this for a door in the garage. Your dedication is crazy
Love your dry sense of humor my dude. Came for the expert and beautiful installs. Stayed for the craftsman. Keep ‘em comin.
Mullion/muntin: A mullion is a heavy vertical or horizontal member between adjoining window units. Muntins are the narrow strips of wood that divide the individual panes of glass in a traditional sash.
I never tire of watching you design and build with great craftmanship.
I'll CA GLUE IT AND THROW IT ON MY EBAY 😂🙏
Hey thanks for mentioning Plywood Company. I live near there and did not even know about them. I do now.
The random Vegas joke cracked me up!
Feather boards and a pair of safety glasses should be added to your next shopping list.
You are one of my favorites to watch... not really because you have crazy exotic tastes or incredible equipment, even though that SCM is pretty sweet, it's because you really seem to enjoy doing what you're doing and it shows in the quality of explanation.
Just loaded TH-cam. Said to myself, "That dude still working on that door?" "Wonder if he still has that big hole in the wall at the back of his shop too." Both questions have been answered. Love your channel man.
I just love that you and Scott Brown Carpentry has started on woodworking in your garage. So much to look forward too 😀
Congratulations Richard for using iPad, I have been using mine for few years now for everything in my construction business. It helps me to keep all the info, drawings, pictures, accounting,etc. in one place with the backup in the cloud.
Yeah, I remember driving off a job and losing my first tablet when it slid off my truck lol. Damn that was an expensive day
I use feather boards to hold the work horizontally and vertically. Thanks for posting.
You can now call yourself as a true cabinet maker…..really, I have been doing this for ever…. Great job brother….
Watching you on the router table scared the shit out of me. I have been woodworking for 40+years
1/2" router bit shanks are beast mode.
You should get a spiral upcut bit for your mortises. It will clean out the shavings naturally, keeping the temperature down a bit. Same bit is in your Castle.
Love the Simmer felt router table.... I have had mine for 15+ years and love it
You have now learned the advantage of using router bits with a half inch shank. Stronger and more stable. Thanks for sharing
FYI the addition of sawdust to glues joints is to act as a color matched filler for any gaps. so make sure you use the same sawdust of the material you are gluing
A couple of suggestions. There were going to be 3 but you found the horizontal feather board. Firstly, is a vertical feather board to hold the piece down to the router table. Secondly, take several small costs to achieve your desired profile (for example, if you want a 1” rebate, go for 1/4”, 1/2”, 15/16” and finally 1”). That final finessing pass produces a much finer finish to your profile.
I was going to add a router table insert - I have several and the principle is to have the insert hole as close to but not touching the router bit - but I’m not going to preach that you must as I don’t know if you must.
I only buy the best (and usually the most expensive) router bits I can afford and go for the 1/2” shank option if it’s available. I’ve had several bits fail on me with one whizzing past my ear. Sobering experience.
Excellent post as I was about to write the same especially about the feather boards. I was yelling at the screen during the first pass using his hands and I was literally freaking out. Both horizontal and vertical feather boards are a must not only for safety for for consistent cuts.
I also noted he was taking the entire cut depth with one pass which caused the first 1/4 shank bit to snap but he did the same with the 1/2 shank bit but it didn't fail. Yeah, making multiple passes at different depths to the final depth is a must for a clean cut.
I purchase my router bits at MLCS, Eagle America and Woodcraft depending what's in stock for my needs. Cheers!
@@TheFlatlander440 thank you for your reply. I’m in the UK and buy virtually all my bits from Wealden Tools in Kent. I’ve found them to be very good and, as they are only about 5miles away, I can collect if I’m desperate. I have bought Whiteside bits and also a speciality bit from William angle. Although I haven’t used them, I’m told that Titman bits are very good. My advice would be not to buy these sets of bits; even if they are from a reliable manufacturer (many are not) you just won’t use some of the shapes. Have a good day.
John needs a shoutout, carpenter turned videographer. Excellent work all around.
Funny as! I want this pro from time to time...."what stays in vegas" got me!!!!!!
FUNNY!
An up spiral router bit would hog out the material cleanly and would not heat up like the morticing bit that broke. When you are running a long continuous mortise, evacuating the sawdust is important.
downward spiral on a router table.
@@Durrttyy respectfully, no, that isn’t the correct interpretation. An up spiral bit pulls the chips up toward the router- so is ideal for routing mortises, deep slots and grooves. A down spiral bit pushes the chips away from the router so is excellent for through cuts and for pattern routing as they leave the top edge of the cut clean. Compression bits combine both up and downward cutting force so are useful for center through cuts in plywood and laminates. I use all three and all have their specific uses with both hand held and router table applications.
14:27
Your TH-cam pal cleans up glue in this manner--Matt from Next Level Carpentry.
You may want to consider a few different feather boards. You could definitely 1 vertically on your fence as well as your deck to hold pressure down and against the fence for cleaner routering.
I agree with the feather boards. And watch them fingers they come in handy
Featherboard makes it so much easier to keep the feed in constant and not have to work about keeping the pressure on the piece when passing the bit.
Also thought I would say that I have excellent results from Whiteside router bits. Keep up the good work Richard. Nicely done
Great work. We all love watching. You might think about beveling the edges of the tongues on you moulding. That gives the glue somewhere to go and it makes glue up easier. Just a thought. Keep up the good work!!
You care about craftsmanship…… I am truly moved by you
love the attention to detail youre putting into this. wish i had your skills and patience. bravo.. pleasure to watch 👍👍
Beautiful craftsmanship.
You may also want to look into featherboard type guides for applying downward pressure. It would attach to the fence.
awesome work! and you're right on about those damn shorts, they suck you in to a time warp.
You’re making good progress with your new shop and tools. Good job.
Richard, this is not meant as a put down but as a craftsman who teaches his craft to us, consider watching the hundreds upon hundreds of videos out there of this kind of work, the right way, wrong way, better way, alternate way, etc. Lots of it is common sense, but some of it is counter-intuitive as well. Easier, cheaper, and safer to learn from others' mistakes instead of exposing yourself to possible injury and unnecessary costs.
The door is coming along great for a first wood working project and if you thought you spent money on tools before, hold on to your ass because you're in for a ride now. 😂
I agree !! Richard has alot to learn about joinery techniques…..I fear one of those machines will “bite” him as he doesn’t really understand their potential danger…
I always thought muntin bars were those sheep-flavored snacks from Nature Valley.
All I can imagine is a far side comic… bunch of old sheep sitting at the bar havin a beer. 😂
😂
You mean it's not a place where sheep go to unwind with a couple of cold ones? 😄
Russel the ram walks into the bar …. with a glazed look on his face. This ones on the house. Says the bar tender.
Good stuff Richard. I've been watching your channel for a long time and the content is always interesting. I bought the Dewaukita hoodie some time back and its been so warm in NJ so looking forward to wearing it more often. Take care.
Great job Richard love it mate ….Thanks for Sharing this with us 👍👍👍👍
"it's still good. I'll CA glue it and throw it on my ebay" lolololol 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂
You have very good ideas my friend, congratulations.
Really enjoy these videos. Shows a lot of the learning process most TH-camrs leave out
I watch all of your content keep em rolling thank you for your videos!
I've always enjoyed.a leg of lamb and a pint of ale at my local mutton bar.
Heck yes. Been waiting for new videos!
Nice that you got the Vegas vacation, sorry about the STDs. 😂
You're the man Rich! Keep up the good work
Nice; I think you’re getting the hang of it.
I see you have the best router table 😂 love my table
I like watchin this door come together. Nice job Richard
Great job brother...the door is coming together nicely!!
Loving this Richard!
That was a dope process..😎😎 this dude has become one of my favorite carpenter to watch on TH-cam..
I don't think there is a quarter inch shaft router bit in existence that would hold up with that kind of heat build up. Unless you get into three phase motors, 50-100 dollar router and shaper bits, you're gonna need some patience. You're not dealing with finger-jointed pine anymore. You are figuring it out, my friend, keep it going. Imagine what you'd have to charge a client to do this, learning on your own projects is doubly rewarding.
Great video Richard !!
FWIW - I didn't see you face joint the piece first before planing. Thanks for sharing!
When are you going to set up a assembly station? All the fancy tools and tripping around the shop.
So close..
I hate to be that guy but man you should be wearing safety glasses or something on that router table. Especially considering that bit breaking…could have been really bad.
New line of merch - broken bits from finish carpentry tv🤔😎 I think it would be a bit of mastalgia.
The door build is evolving quite nicely 👍
"I'll just CA glue it and throw out on my ebay" 🤣🤣🤣
You seem to never have a problem paying top dollar for the best tools in your shop. Why skimp on your bits? I've used Whiteside router bits forever with NEVER an issue. Great video Richard, that's quite a door!!
Interesting take on the moulding usually you just pin nail the moulding instead of putting a grove for the moulding nice work
I had a feeling this is what you were thinking of doing. Just didn't know the terminology and what not.
I was concerned when that 1/4" router bit broke that it would have damaged the rail, but I guess you got lucky.
I would suggest only using only 1/2" collet bits for any shaper/router processes. Looks great so far; Good luck.
Dog heard you say Rabbit.
As you start making your own trim even on small projects it will expand your capabilities as you could match old trim or do custom trim
Looks good
Great video! Trim carpentry on a small scale? Clever profile and design. Want to see how you fix the two interior muntins. (Still trying to figure out muntin vs mullion - and to stop autocorrect from changing these two terms). You solved the problem of the exposed edges. Glad that broken bit was contained. Scary possibilities considering the speed a router turns at.
Great stuff, your videos have guided me through many trim jobs at home and the professional tricks and insight are great. Glad to see this new type of video and congrats on your growing show biz career. Would love more info on types of wood and why it’s used in particular applications and where the terms come from, like “cove” why is it called that?
2:55 thought: "no featherboards?" 4:17 thought: "there you go." 9:06 thought: "bit's pretty high for a single pass." 9:28 thought: "there it goes." Lol looks awesome though. I've always used glue and sawdust to make filler for hardwoods. Generally I just put the glue on for around 5-10 minutes until it coagulates a little and then I add sawdust and sand it. Works great with hardwoods. Can't even tell. Can definitely save the day in some cases.
I learned the saw dust trick from Next Level Carpentry.
Now see I would have done that completely different, but then mine also would have looked like a 4yr. old got a hold of daddy's tools. Yours is turning out much better.
Your making my back ache. Did someone cut the legs off your router table?
Great video👍
Hey bud, just seen your post of the progress on the door. I recently started my first total custom cabinet project for a customer so i get the excitement you have on your door. I too live in the DFW area that's what attracted me to your channel. I was in the glass business for 35 years until about 2 years ago. I'm totally not picking at your work. you rally are good at what ever you decide to tackle
i get the need to use an antique glass in your door ( a door this nice is well deserving of
it ) but heads up on a couple of things. 1st. and most important the glass should be a safety glass. it would be one of three types. Tempered, Laminated, or plastic for obvious reasons lets trash the plastic idea.
1st Tempered is what most people use but when it comes to antique glass the thing you love about it can be its down fall. The distortion is caused buy little imperfections in the glass derived by the manufacturing process used (at the time glass was blown in a cylinder shape then cut in half and heated to lay flat ish ). Those imperfections will be sand particles or small air bubbles in the glass which when heated going thru the tempering process will cause the glass to explode, or waves in the glass will be thickness differences which also has the same effect in the tempering process this will also damage other glass' in the process . You might find a glass company that will try it, but probably not, and if you do they wont guarantee its success. Also it has to be cut to its finished size prior to the process and must be a minimum of 18" in one direction to go thru the tempering process locally.
2nd Laminated is what you see most of all in windshields of your car the process takes two pieces of glass and laminates them together with a film between. this is your best chance for successfully meeting the LAW when it comes for glass in a door. it will still have some risk of breakage so you still wont get a guarantee but the process needs
considerable y less heat, 1200 degrees to temper versus about 400 to laminate it, but the glass has to be a minimum of 1/8" thick and it will be laminated to another piece of 1/8" thick glass. giving you total thickness of just over 1/4" thick which may be a problem for you .FYI i have seen that you could actually make laminated glass in your oven at home maybe another DYI video for you.
PS For support and strength the dividers between the glass should go thru and be mortised into the framing top and bottom or you could make them fake by applying them to the glass inside and out that would make the glass one piece.
keep up the good work looking forward to the completion
Always liked your job site videos but I enjoy your new content quite a bit more actually.
Try Whiteside router bits. They are expensive but I do love em.
good job
I've been wondering how your shop door was coming along. Cool!
Very cool ,your getting good ive been watchingfor years and have used you tips and i thank you ,it's always fun learning new stuff .one word of advice get some good no.2 pencils and stop using carpenter pencil they make way to fat of a line to be accurate, when building furniture I use a good fine tip pencil and making knife that line can really mess ya up when your trying to be accurate. Thanks again for the great videos
I also use a vertical hold down on my router table
Really enjoying watching you become a woodworker! How is the combination machine working out?
Nice job man. I was wondering how you were going to install the glass. I used to be a Marvin winder installer and we did a lot of super old homes. Had a guy who specialized in lead muntins. He billed a fortune for that work. Also, drives me nuts when I see people write down mutton. Nah man, don't want any dead lamb on my winders lol.
Look maybe they do want a leg of lamb in their window
Looks great with high quality workmanship! But I have one question, how are you going to replace a broken window pane ?
Lmfaooooo bro that was hilarious my wife just looked at me I started cracking up 😂 lol 😂 i
Hmm, mutton bar. Learn something new everyday. Also, I'll be looking out for your CA glued router bit on EBay! that had me ROFL!
Munton
@@JT_70 learned another thing! Thanks for the correction. I couldn't quite make it out.
A featherboard to help with the feed in for the router table would make it easier to keep contact with the bit.
Wow did he really say that about Vegas, now we know what he’s thinking about
A question about wainscot panels is you have time. If I use 1/4" birch plywood for my panels, do I still need to use glue? Love your channel!!!
Only buy Whiteside Router Bits!
Use a solid carbide spiral bit.
Yo, get some safety glasses!
Checkout Stoggles
Are the 2 center dividers going to miter into the outer frame? If so , shouldn’t you have cut all the miters on the perimeter frame b4 gluing?
Hi, joined today...What's the easiest way to find the part 2 or part 3 video once you see the initial video/topic?
The yellow holder is nit 💛 l never seen one before
Haha …laughing out loud…”CA glue it and throw it on eBay”
What size and make of router do you have in your table? Where did you get the router table? I really like that table!
Do I see an assembly table in your future for the shop?
FANCY.
Quick question - just wondering why you didn’t use the shaper on your new machine? You can get a spindle which accepts router bits (I have one in my Felder CF531).