Who says this Bike is no good for Hwy? The footage shows she's shifting nicely and that single cyl snarl you can hear is mustard ... looking forward to getting my RE Chrome Classic 500 in a few weeks time - I shall be watching and reading with interest all I can on break in!
The royal Enfield's no different to ride than an SR 500 Yamaha. Even the power is much the same. Picking up my royal Enfield 500 bullet on Tuesday. Can't wait!
Rick Buitendijk cheers thanks, I love my RE. I think most modern bikes are too heavy if not in weight but feel. I am hoping that the rumored 750 twin turns out to be 2 variants. A new constellation/interceptor and a Cintinental GT. I wouldn't sell my bullet but would be tempted for a 750 to go with it.
Imo the RE 750 will have to work very hard to compete with the Bonnie. RE are currently the fifth largest bike manufacturer in the world but export is only a tiny part of their market, they are not export driven.
Jeff Slade. With recent reports on the Himalayan faults it's clear that the new development facility in the UK was started to get proper build and design right. i have doubts that they can re create what they have with the 350 and 500 bullet bikes.
Love watching your videos. I pine for my old RE 500 classic. I had added a sidecar and it was a hoot to ride. My local dealer here in Oregon, USA is going to stop selling Enfields, he has 3 left. One of which is the same colour as yours, really lovely.... I have stopped by twice to sit on it and once to test ride it. I was abruptly reminded of the intense vibration in the grips. I had found heavy, padded aftermarket grips ameliorated that problem greatly.
Steve Miller .Mine was really bad after around 100kph or 60mph. I tried the hard run in method and made a video about it, it made a huge difference with no detrimental effects to the bike. Key consideration has to be the type of roads you use. Back roads and fire trails are great, highway rides not so much. Thanks for the comments
The vibrations were mitigated by the grips and the added weight and bracing of the sidecar made it just fine, albeit slower. I am flopping back and forth weather to buy it or not... it is such a romantic piece of industrial art. It really would be more for back road riding.
I’ve seen a video where the owner of a Classic fitted a Hitchcock 19 tooth front sprocket lowering rpm by 500rpm at 100kmh. Engine felt much less stressed, less vibration.
Thanks Paul - Do you think I can still perform the hard run in at just over 2000km ? Ive been stuck in Sydney during lock down, though planning a longer ride south, where I can wind it up through 3rd and 4th in the 80-110km zone
Just ordered one from the dealer in battle green 😊 Would appreciate a brief write up for run-in up to 500k and what to do after that to get vibrations improved.
The 500km running in will be in the Owners Manual but it's more about restricting work i.e. revs on the motor than speed limits. After 500km still follow the book as a guideline (running in does not stop at 500km) for further running in to 1000km, gradually gradually increasing revs by feel through the gears. After 1000km take it high up the revs, not thrashing it but by feel through the gears. Max power is at 5250, rev limiter at about 5500, max revs (based on piston speed) is probably 6800, hence it cannot be over revved once fully run in. One dodge to reduce vibration is to loosen the engine mounts and run the engine at idle to re-seat the motor and then re-torque the bolts (get a copy of the Service Manual). Also re-torque the head stay and rear frame bolts and the swinging arm bolt (70Nm). The front tank bolt has a rubber mount, do not crush that (latest models have changed the tank mount). Do use a torque wrench because over tightening is counter productive; the swinging arm has nylon bushes that can be crushed. Most of the bar vibrations come up the front frame tube from the engine. With the engine well bedded in it turns more freely and so causes less vibrations. The mirrors stop dancing about and the engine becomes significantly more powerful than when new. Whilst it is running in there is wear in the engine, so it is prudent to use good oil. At first service the oil will come out filthy. Not all of the oil can come out of the engine, there are weirs and dams that stop that. I did a couple of extra oil changes (short changes) converting to full-synth before the oil stayed clean. The last oil has been in the engine for ~1500 miles now and is still like new. Use JASO MA 15W-50, not car oil - wrong type of clutch. Do Not overfill oil; can cause damage, wet sumping. The correct check is run engine at idle until warmed up, switch off and wait 3 minutes (make a cup of tea) then check sight glass (if you wait longer, overnight, the glass will appear overfilled). If there is any oil showing in the glass then you have enough oil and do not top up. The pumps will suck oil when it is half filled, so it will tolerate under filled but not above the top line (and it will spit oil out of the breather). The Service Manual - 2010 is the latest issue but post-2012 bikes differ somewhat, the manual is still workable www.midlandbullets.co.uk/pdf%20files/Workshop%20manual%20Export%20EFI%20models%20Dec%202010.pdf
Many thanks for the thorough brief! I have her up to 120 miles now and when I came home it looked like there was hardly any oil left in the sight glass (I waited 1 minute only, not 3), so I poured in about 1 tea mug of oil to top up until I saw it come just over the half way mark. Should I drain some? Oil in sight glass does not look too bad yet.
Cyril - when the engine is hot the pumps have shifted the oil out of the sump, so you won't see oil in the glass. Put it on the centre stand on level ground, switch off and wait at least 3 minutes (longer is ok but not hours) so the hot oil can drain down into the sump. One minute is probably not long enough. The oil must not then be over the top mark. If you wait over night it will probably go over the top mark. The oil never drops down to the same place twice. It is only an indicator, it is not accurate. My rule of thumb is if I can see any oil in the glass there is enough, do not top up. If I cannot see oil, run the check again. There seems to be less than 100ml between bottom and going over the top mark. If you do top up, run the engine and wait 3 minutes to check level. If you have actually over filled it (check twice), drain some oil from the suction filter; only about a cupful of oil comes out of there anyway and you don't have to remove the cover completely. The pumps will suck oil when half full meaning the engine is tolerant of low oil level but they move oil at about 9 litres per minute not just for lubrication but for oil cooling, meaning it likes to have the correct oil level, and good oil. If you over fill slightly it spits oil out of the breather (been there), straight into the inlet on the clean side of the air filter, messy. I don't recall adding any oil at all since fitting a fatter O-ring to the suction filter cover some 1200 miles ago.
Thank you Jeff, I definitely but in more than 100ml when I topped up, so I'll drain a bit of oil out tomorrow then, just to be on the safe side. The suction filter is the one with 3 small bolts on the underneath of the engine if I'm not mistaken?
Cyril - do check the level properly before draining oil. On my bike there are two sump plug bolts (sump and crankcase), the main oil filter cover on the right hand side has three bolts and the suction filter cover underneath has two bolts (8mm?). Earlier models did have two bolts on the main oil filter cover; RE do change specs without notice. If you open the suction filter cover on the side stand, less oil will drop out (and it is more accessible). Be careful closing the cover that you do not crush the mesh basket of the suction filter; hold the cover closed against the spring with a finger whilst fastening the bolts.
Greetings! Your bike sounds fantastic. I'm the proud owner of a 2017 Classic, brand new with less than 20 miles. Was intending to keep it below 40 mph per the manual, which shouldn't be difficult given that the speed limit in Manhattan is 25, haha. If I understand your break-in suggestion correctly, it sounds like you gently wound it out to the rev limiter in 3rd gear in the range 80 - 100 kph?
Hi, I would probably get a few more steady miles on it, then go for the short burst method I had the first oil change at 500km about 300 or so miles before I gave it short bursts in 3rd and 4th
Walter Rossow well spotted, I thought I had ran over something and didn't notice for a few days. Look closely at the bike before I leave and when I get home. PS it was something I was going to take off. If you can't spot it I'll comment later
Walter Rossow on the exhaust heat shield there is a small boot guard rivoted on. It used to catch on the kick start on the down swing. After I noticed it missing I thought the dealer had removed it. Then I remembered the clanking when reviewing the video footage 😎 not too bothered it was a pain anyway. But you're the first to spot it 👍
Something I noticed fitting the free-flow system was the down pipe could be moved closer to the frame, much neater. And then I got an annoying rattle as the brake lever decided to ping against the exhaust, spanners sorted.
alan gill the standard end can is located under the heat shield and is clamped to the manifold pipe, mine has an amazing sound, but there are lots of aftermarket slip-on end cans available.
If you are in the UK then www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/page.php?currentpageref=113 and the EFI systems are at the bottom of the page - they will ship just about anywhere in the world. The 50's system does add a couple of ponies, perhaps due to the removal of the excessive weight of the original "towing-a-log" system, it is a really heavy bit of plumbing. To mine I've added a K&N filter, Power Commander V, AutoTune AT-200, all of which add up to a significant increase in torque (which wasn't shabby to start with). The top speed is much the same due to gearing but it gets there quicker. No, it doesn't turn it into a super-sports, more like a Velo Venom with more torque. One of the reasons the EFI doesn't accelerate as quickly as expected is not so much the long stroke 84x90 but the massive 8.4kg crank. Do note that removing the original system removes the cat (which I gather is a liner on the oem down pipe), this is ok in the UK but may not be elsewhere.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
Who says this Bike is no good for Hwy? The footage shows she's shifting nicely and that single cyl snarl you can hear is mustard ... looking forward to getting my RE Chrome Classic 500 in a few weeks time - I shall be watching and reading with interest all I can on break in!
The royal Enfield's no different to ride than an SR 500 Yamaha. Even the power is much the same. Picking up my royal Enfield 500 bullet on Tuesday. Can't wait!
Thank you. A good honest review of the bike it's nice to see someone riding the bike as it should be ridden
Great review, you nailed it! I bought myself the Desert Storm variant and loving every minute on it!
Rick Buitendijk cheers thanks, I love my RE. I think most modern bikes are too heavy if not in weight but feel. I am hoping that the rumored 750 twin turns out to be 2 variants. A new constellation/interceptor and a Cintinental GT. I wouldn't sell my bullet but would be tempted for a 750 to go with it.
Imo the RE 750 will have to work very hard to compete with the Bonnie.
RE are currently the fifth largest bike manufacturer in the world but export is only a tiny part of their market, they are not export driven.
Jeff Slade. With recent reports on the Himalayan faults it's clear that the new development facility in the UK was started to get proper build and design right. i have doubts that they can re create what they have with the 350 and 500 bullet bikes.
Wow ! are the roads always so clear ? I thought North East Cornwall was good, except for July and August.
Love watching your videos. I pine for my old RE 500 classic. I had added a sidecar and it was a hoot to ride. My local dealer here in Oregon, USA is going to stop selling Enfields, he has 3 left. One of which is the same colour as yours, really lovely.... I have stopped by twice to sit on it and once to test ride it. I was abruptly reminded of the intense vibration in the grips. I had found heavy, padded aftermarket grips ameliorated that problem greatly.
Steve Miller .Mine was really bad after around 100kph or 60mph. I tried the hard run in method and made a video about it, it made a huge difference with no detrimental effects to the bike. Key consideration has to be the type of roads you use. Back roads and fire trails are great, highway rides not so much. Thanks for the comments
The vibrations were mitigated by the grips and the added weight and bracing of the sidecar made it just fine, albeit slower. I am flopping back and forth weather to buy it or not... it is such a romantic piece of industrial art. It really would be more for back road riding.
I did. It vibrates a lot less than my last RE. I have ordered the grips... but it doesn't seem to need them so much.
I’ve seen a video where the owner of a Classic fitted a Hitchcock 19 tooth front sprocket lowering rpm by 500rpm at 100kmh. Engine felt much less stressed, less vibration.
Nice man. hugs from Brazil
Great vid mate. It's sounding very healthy these days.
loved your review !!! kudos
Kalpataru Sengupta cheers thanks for comments
Thanks Paul - Do you think I can still perform the hard run in at just over 2000km ? Ive been stuck in Sydney during lock down, though planning a longer ride south, where I can wind it up through 3rd and 4th in the 80-110km zone
Hi, thx for the excellent review. Question: is this bike good for a 6'4 feet, 300 pounds man?
Thx.
Nice Review , thanks
Tristan Burrows thanks for the comment
Love this review.
B Buse cheers for your comment. Check out the other RE videos I uploaded on my channel and subscribe to see my next video 😎
I will! Cheers 😊
👍
Just ordered one from the dealer in battle green 😊 Would appreciate a brief write up for run-in up to 500k and what to do after that to get vibrations improved.
The 500km running in will be in the Owners Manual but it's more about restricting work i.e. revs on the motor than speed limits. After 500km still follow the book as a guideline (running in does not stop at 500km) for further running in to 1000km, gradually gradually increasing revs by feel through the gears. After 1000km take it high up the revs, not thrashing it but by feel through the gears. Max power is at 5250, rev limiter at about 5500, max revs (based on piston speed) is probably 6800, hence it cannot be over revved once fully run in.
One dodge to reduce vibration is to loosen the engine mounts and run the engine at idle to re-seat the motor and then re-torque the bolts (get a copy of the Service Manual). Also re-torque the head stay and rear frame bolts and the swinging arm bolt (70Nm). The front tank bolt has a rubber mount, do not crush that (latest models have changed the tank mount).
Do use a torque wrench because over tightening is counter productive; the swinging arm has nylon bushes that can be crushed.
Most of the bar vibrations come up the front frame tube from the engine. With the engine well bedded in it turns more freely and so causes less vibrations. The mirrors stop dancing about and the engine becomes significantly more powerful than when new.
Whilst it is running in there is wear in the engine, so it is prudent to use good oil. At first service the oil will come out filthy. Not all of the oil can come out of the engine, there are weirs and dams that stop that. I did a couple of extra oil changes (short changes) converting to full-synth before the oil stayed clean. The last oil has been in the engine for ~1500 miles now and is still like new. Use JASO MA 15W-50, not car oil - wrong type of clutch.
Do Not overfill oil; can cause damage, wet sumping. The correct check is run engine at idle until warmed up, switch off and wait 3 minutes (make a cup of tea) then check sight glass (if you wait longer, overnight, the glass will appear overfilled). If there is any oil showing in the glass then you have enough oil and do not top up. The pumps will suck oil when it is half filled, so it will tolerate under filled but not above the top line (and it will spit oil out of the breather).
The Service Manual - 2010 is the latest issue but post-2012 bikes differ somewhat, the manual is still workable
www.midlandbullets.co.uk/pdf%20files/Workshop%20manual%20Export%20EFI%20models%20Dec%202010.pdf
Many thanks for the thorough brief! I have her up to 120 miles now and when I came home it looked like there was hardly any oil left in the sight glass (I waited 1 minute only, not 3), so I poured in about 1 tea mug of oil to top up until I saw it come just over the half way mark. Should I drain some? Oil in sight glass does not look too bad yet.
Cyril - when the engine is hot the pumps have shifted the oil out of the sump, so you won't see oil in the glass. Put it on the centre stand on level ground, switch off and wait at least 3 minutes (longer is ok but not hours) so the hot oil can drain down into the sump. One minute is probably not long enough. The oil must not then be over the top mark.
If you wait over night it will probably go over the top mark.
The oil never drops down to the same place twice. It is only an indicator, it is not accurate.
My rule of thumb is if I can see any oil in the glass there is enough, do not top up. If I cannot see oil, run the check again. There seems to be less than 100ml between bottom and going over the top mark.
If you do top up, run the engine and wait 3 minutes to check level.
If you have actually over filled it (check twice), drain some oil from the suction filter; only about a cupful of oil comes out of there anyway and you don't have to remove the cover completely.
The pumps will suck oil when half full meaning the engine is tolerant of low oil level but they move oil at about 9 litres per minute not just for lubrication but for oil cooling, meaning it likes to have the correct oil level, and good oil.
If you over fill slightly it spits oil out of the breather (been there), straight into the inlet on the clean side of the air filter, messy.
I don't recall adding any oil at all since fitting a fatter O-ring to the suction filter cover some 1200 miles ago.
Thank you Jeff, I definitely but in more than 100ml when I topped up, so I'll drain a bit of oil out tomorrow then, just to be on the safe side. The suction filter is the one with 3 small bolts on the underneath of the engine if I'm not mistaken?
Cyril - do check the level properly before draining oil.
On my bike there are two sump plug bolts (sump and crankcase), the main oil filter cover on the right hand side has three bolts and the suction filter cover underneath has two bolts (8mm?). Earlier models did have two bolts on the main oil filter cover; RE do change specs without notice.
If you open the suction filter cover on the side stand, less oil will drop out (and it is more accessible). Be careful closing the cover that you do not crush the mesh basket of the suction filter; hold the cover closed against the spring with a finger whilst fastening the bolts.
Greetings! Your bike sounds fantastic. I'm the proud owner of a 2017 Classic, brand new with less than 20 miles. Was intending to keep it below 40 mph per the manual, which shouldn't be difficult given that the speed limit in Manhattan is 25, haha. If I understand your break-in suggestion correctly, it sounds like you gently wound it out to the rev limiter in 3rd gear in the range 80 - 100 kph?
Hi, I would probably get a few more steady miles on it, then go for the short burst method I had the first oil change at 500km about 300 or so miles before I gave it short bursts in 3rd and 4th
Paul Grocock thanks for responding. Makes sense to me. I'll wait until after first service!
hey great video ...does this technique work with classic 350
Nice driving
What fell off at 20:28?
Walter Rossow well spotted, I thought I had ran over something and didn't notice for a few days. Look closely at the bike before I leave and when I get home. PS it was something I was going to take off. If you can't spot it I'll comment later
Walter Rossow on the exhaust heat shield there is a small boot guard rivoted on. It used to catch on the kick start on the down swing. After I noticed it missing I thought the dealer had removed it. Then I remembered the clanking when reviewing the video footage 😎 not too bothered it was a pain anyway. But you're the first to spot it 👍
Nice bike and videos. I'm going to be buying one in a few weeks. Cheers.
Walter Rossow check out the video I uploaded yesterday and thanks for commenting 👍
Something I noticed fitting the free-flow system was the down pipe could be moved closer to the frame, much neater. And then I got an annoying rattle as the brake lever decided to ping against the exhaust, spanners sorted.
Can we change the exhaust of this bike?? Is their any slot provided for it??
alan gill yes there are loads of after market exhausts available
+Paul Grocock i want a picture of ur silencer? Is it possible?
alan gill the standard end can is located under the heat shield and is clamped to the manifold pipe, mine has an amazing sound, but there are lots of aftermarket slip-on end cans available.
If you are in the UK then www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/page.php?currentpageref=113 and the EFI systems are at the bottom of the page - they will ship just about anywhere in the world. The 50's system does add a couple of ponies, perhaps due to the removal of the excessive weight of the original "towing-a-log" system, it is a really heavy bit of plumbing.
To mine I've added a K&N filter, Power Commander V, AutoTune AT-200, all of which add up to a significant increase in torque (which wasn't shabby to start with). The top speed is much the same due to gearing but it gets there quicker. No, it doesn't turn it into a super-sports, more like a Velo Venom with more torque.
One of the reasons the EFI doesn't accelerate as quickly as expected is not so much the long stroke 84x90 but the massive 8.4kg crank.
Do note that removing the original system removes the cat (which I gather is a liner on the oem down pipe), this is ok in the UK but may not be elsewhere.
And it will be very kind of u, if u make a video on the sound and silencer of your bike
alan gill check out my other off road video I uploaded the other day it has good exhaust sounds
KPH!, we're British, please give an MPH too. Pretty please 😉😊