Replacing a door skin was always an intimidating project for me until I saw this video. I will give it a try sometime soon. Thank you for putting out this content!
Really good videos on your channel. Lots of information and tips relayed to the viewer with your narration over the time lapse footage. Thanks for putting up such great content.
Мастер своего дела. Спасибо вам, что делитесь своей работой . Такую информацию редко встретишь в интернете. И ещё один момент, одевайте пожалуйста перчатки.
Great explanation! This is where I am at on my 72 Camaro "OverKill". I've got 2 nos door skins for it. Never skinned a door before, so I plan to skin one on my 81 Camaro "Fast Times" as practice using a reproduction skin. I even bought the cheapest repro I could find, just to practice on an old frame I have before I skin the door for the 81 lol. I cut a block of wood and removed all the sharp corners a few months back. I also have a dolly wrapped in some type of rubber and I've purchased a used Killer Tools ART12DX. It uses a air hammer with a dolly behind it. I haven't used it, but plan to practice with it on the spare shell to get the feel for it. Have you used one of those tools? If so any thoughts? Also on the F body 2nd gen Camaro, the top of the skin just tack welds to the door frame at the top in a few spots. My plan is to hold the top pinched together to the frame with some springs clamps and tack in the middle working my way out towards the outer edges. Any other advice of the 2nd gen Camaro door skins would be great. I'll say that to prep a shell and get everything ready is a ton of work, not to mention restoring all the internal door components. I'm almost of the belief that one may be better off buying complete new doors if available, but I haven't made up my mind on that yet because I still believe that a restored door is better than a new one, even though its very labor intensive. I've got a few videos on my channel showing door shell prep. Basically the same way you do it. Blasting/Epoxy. On a side note, these 2nd gen door shells are the heaviest I have ever seen. I plan to skin my doors once My daughter and I finish up this Mustang she bought. We are almost done.
Thanks a lot. If I can also recommend another one of my videos that might help. AMD vs Dynacorn 1973 Challenger door skins. I use a pneumatic door skinning tool in that video and show some tips and tricks on what i do when using it, its not the killer tools one but should be something similar. My opinion is they are great but more of a finishing tool you will still need to do all the grunt work by hand. I have done a second gen trans am door before and think the Challenger doors will be a little bit closer to them with the top support as far as technique so see what you think about that video. I agree saving the doors is a lot of times harder and on my own car (69 Firebird) I have purchased full dynacorn doors. My opinion is if you cane this far and the shells are prepped and cleaned up might go ahead and put the skin on it. Good thing is you can slightly move the skin to make fitment slightly better vs one that is sent to you. Good luck on the build and thanks for the comment. Ill try and take a look when I get a chance on your builds on your channel.
@carthageclassiccars Awesome, I'll definitely check out the other video for sure. I appreciate it and the reply. Im also still looking for some I or H beams. No luck yet, but hopefully, something will turn up on marketplace. If not, Ill just have to buy some 2x2 or 2x3 steel. Keep up the great work!
I usually do not put lizard skin on for sound deadening unless the client is 100% into it. My opinion is with the epoxy there is no better rust prevention and really shooting over rust you are asking for issues down the road unless you treat it with acid. I would personally put the lizard skin over epoxy but usually my go too is dynamat but that is after paint and body work. That way the sanded bodywork dust doesn't get all caked in the lizard skin area. Not saying one way is better then another just the way i have done it.
So I have tried 3m panel bond about 15 plus years ago and eventually pulled the whole skin off the vehicle and scrapped it so this question is a great question for me. What happened is I installed the door on a 80 trans am and like you asked panel bond instead of welding. Everything worked well except when I put the door on the car it needed some gap work. Once I put the welder on the edge and started welding it went to smoking and trying to contaminate the weld. So basically if you plan on gapping or welding on the door the panel bond is NOT a good idea. For the auto body collision industry i would say that is an easier route.
Another nice job. You mentioned blasting and using OSPHO to get to the rust possibly missed. Have you ever used Vinegar to remove rust? What’s your thoughts on those using Vinegar. Does it have a place? Better? Worse? Thanks again for the technical advice.
Thank you! I have never tried vinegar, but saying that I would see how ti works as its also an acid just like Ospho so the process should be similar. I have been happy with the Ospho so haven't had a need to experiment more or found the right need to at this point. If you use vinegar let me know how it works out.
Great channel thanks for the content. I do have a question in your video you just cut the old off and installed the new does it not have to be fitted to the car adjusted or tweaked before welding or does it only fit one way. Thanks again
Thank you and honestly its hit or miss with the different panels. Their are some that installs close to factory, but most others require pulling cutting and slight modifications. This Nova door skins honestly fit really well and the only modification I had to do to really get them perfect if you watch the next video in this playlist is moving the quarter panel body line just slightly.
@@carthageclassiccars thanks that makes sense I do not have that option of moving the quarter it was installed years ago by previous owner. I’ll play with it maybe tack it in after I see how it fits on the car. Thanks again cheers
@@mikemattina-qn7cg Good luck with the install, also another option is make the holes larger in the door hinges for more movement. That would also be another option if the window up top is also off. I have also done a video on gaping a car where I have welded on the gaps to open and close them a bit.
Thanks for the great video. I do have a question, With a window frame, it makes the Nova a little more rigid, correct ? But what if you have a door without a window frame would that Shell be more likely to rack Like a Camaro or a Cuda, Would you test fit the door on the car before spot welding in that case Where you might have to twist the door a little bit for alignment. Or is the shell Rigid enough not to twist, Thanks keep the videos coming
I don't feel the window frame puts too much extra support on the inner structure in this case. I have run into a door skin on a 69 firebird once that the inner structure of the car was bent from an accident I should have known as the original door skin didn't align when i got the car. After it was all said and done we ended up replacing the entire door. Usually if I take off the door on a car and the gaps look good I get an idea where the skin will sit especially if it doesn't move like this one there was no wiggle room in it ill just weld it up. But what you suggested if I am questioning the fitment I will go ahead and hold the skin in place and test fit. I have even used celco clamps on 4 outside corners and tack welded up when finished. I am also at an advantage here with this nova I can move the quarter to help align it. Hope that helps answer your question.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge making me a better bodyman
You a welcome, thank you for the comment and watching!
Nice Job, very informative
Thank you very much!
Excellent job!!
Thank you!
Great job! Great video. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome!
Great instructional video. Thanks 👍
you are welcome
Always wondered how this was done, Thanks for the video.
You are welcome glad you enjoyed it!
Always professional I’m doing a 1970 cuda your tips are awesome thank you!
Thank you!
Replacing a door skin was always an intimidating project for me until I saw this video. I will give it a try sometime soon. Thank you for putting out this content!
You are welcome, good luck on your project glad this helped you out.
Awesome job, Just the ticket to round off the Sunday. They came out perfect.
Thank you!
That's the way. Thanks 👍
you are welcome
Really good videos on your channel.
Lots of information and tips relayed to the viewer with your narration over the time lapse footage.
Thanks for putting up such great content.
You're welcome thanks for watching!
Beautiful work. Love the channel
Thank you very much!
Мастер своего дела. Спасибо вам, что делитесь своей работой . Такую информацию редко встретишь в интернете. И ещё один момент, одевайте пожалуйста перчатки.
Thank you! You are right with the gloves usually i put them on.
Awesome videos. You do a really great job of explaining. Thank you thank you!!
Appreciate it!
Great explanation! This is where I am at on my 72 Camaro "OverKill". I've got 2 nos door skins for it. Never skinned a door before, so I plan to skin one on my 81 Camaro "Fast Times" as practice using a reproduction skin. I even bought the cheapest repro I could find, just to practice on an old frame I have before I skin the door for the 81 lol. I cut a block of wood and removed all the sharp corners a few months back. I also have a dolly wrapped in some type of rubber and I've purchased a used Killer Tools ART12DX. It uses a air hammer with a dolly behind it. I haven't used it, but plan to practice with it on the spare shell to get the feel for it. Have you used one of those tools? If so any thoughts? Also on the F body 2nd gen Camaro, the top of the skin just tack welds to the door frame at the top in a few spots. My plan is to hold the top pinched together to the frame with some springs clamps and tack in the middle working my way out towards the outer edges. Any other advice of the 2nd gen Camaro door skins would be great.
I'll say that to prep a shell and get everything ready is a ton of work, not to mention restoring all the internal door components. I'm almost of the belief that one may be better off buying complete new doors if available, but I haven't made up my mind on that yet because I still believe that a restored door is better than a new one, even though its very labor intensive. I've got a few videos on my channel showing door shell prep. Basically the same way you do it. Blasting/Epoxy.
On a side note, these 2nd gen door shells are the heaviest I have ever seen. I plan to skin my doors once My daughter and I finish up this Mustang she bought. We are almost done.
Thanks a lot. If I can also recommend another one of my videos that might help. AMD vs Dynacorn 1973 Challenger door skins. I use a pneumatic door skinning tool in that video and show some tips and tricks on what i do when using it, its not the killer tools one but should be something similar. My opinion is they are great but more of a finishing tool you will still need to do all the grunt work by hand. I have done a second gen trans am door before and think the Challenger doors will be a little bit closer to them with the top support as far as technique so see what you think about that video. I agree saving the doors is a lot of times harder and on my own car (69 Firebird) I have purchased full dynacorn doors. My opinion is if you cane this far and the shells are prepped and cleaned up might go ahead and put the skin on it. Good thing is you can slightly move the skin to make fitment slightly better vs one that is sent to you. Good luck on the build and thanks for the comment. Ill try and take a look when I get a chance on your builds on your channel.
@carthageclassiccars Awesome, I'll definitely check out the other video for sure. I appreciate it and the reply. Im also still looking for some I or H beams. No luck yet, but hopefully, something will turn up on marketplace. If not, Ill just have to buy some 2x2 or 2x3 steel. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for your detailed Work Rick do you not put a coat of lizard skin on the Inner side of the door skins for sound deadening plus rust inhibition
I usually do not put lizard skin on for sound deadening unless the client is 100% into it. My opinion is with the epoxy there is no better rust prevention and really shooting over rust you are asking for issues down the road unless you treat it with acid. I would personally put the lizard skin over epoxy but usually my go too is dynamat but that is after paint and body work. That way the sanded bodywork dust doesn't get all caked in the lizard skin area. Not saying one way is better then another just the way i have done it.
How do you think panel adhesive would work on the fold over flange instead of spot welding?
So I have tried 3m panel bond about 15 plus years ago and eventually pulled the whole skin off the vehicle and scrapped it so this question is a great question for me. What happened is I installed the door on a 80 trans am and like you asked panel bond instead of welding. Everything worked well except when I put the door on the car it needed some gap work. Once I put the welder on the edge and started welding it went to smoking and trying to contaminate the weld. So basically if you plan on gapping or welding on the door the panel bond is NOT a good idea. For the auto body collision industry i would say that is an easier route.
Another nice job. You mentioned blasting and using OSPHO to get to the rust possibly missed.
Have you ever used Vinegar to remove rust? What’s your thoughts on those using Vinegar. Does it have a place? Better? Worse?
Thanks again for the technical advice.
Thank you! I have never tried vinegar, but saying that I would see how ti works as its also an acid just like Ospho so the process should be similar. I have been happy with the Ospho so haven't had a need to experiment more or found the right need to at this point. If you use vinegar let me know how it works out.
Great channel thanks for the content.
I do have a question in your video you just cut the old off and installed the new does it not have to be fitted to the car adjusted or tweaked before welding or does it only fit one way.
Thanks again
Thank you and honestly its hit or miss with the different panels. Their are some that installs close to factory, but most others require pulling cutting and slight modifications. This Nova door skins honestly fit really well and the only modification I had to do to really get them perfect if you watch the next video in this playlist is moving the quarter panel body line just slightly.
@@carthageclassiccars thanks that makes sense I do not have that option of moving the quarter it was installed years ago by previous owner. I’ll play with it maybe tack it in after I see how it fits on the car. Thanks again cheers
@@mikemattina-qn7cg Good luck with the install, also another option is make the holes larger in the door hinges for more movement. That would also be another option if the window up top is also off. I have also done a video on gaping a car where I have welded on the gaps to open and close them a bit.
Thanks for the great video. I do have a question, With a window frame, it makes the Nova a little more rigid, correct ? But what if you have a door without a window frame would that Shell be more likely to rack Like a Camaro or a Cuda, Would you test fit the door on the car before spot welding in that case Where you might have to twist the door a little bit for alignment. Or is the shell Rigid enough not to twist, Thanks keep the videos coming
I don't feel the window frame puts too much extra support on the inner structure in this case. I have run into a door skin on a 69 firebird once that the inner structure of the car was bent from an accident I should have known as the original door skin didn't align when i got the car. After it was all said and done we ended up replacing the entire door. Usually if I take off the door on a car and the gaps look good I get an idea where the skin will sit especially if it doesn't move like this one there was no wiggle room in it ill just weld it up. But what you suggested if I am questioning the fitment I will go ahead and hold the skin in place and test fit. I have even used celco clamps on 4 outside corners and tack welded up when finished. I am also at an advantage here with this nova I can move the quarter to help align it. Hope that helps answer your question.
Yes, thanks
Is Osvo what you.used on the bare steel after media blasting. I googled Osvo and don't see no results. Please respond with what yoy actually used
Ospho
How much at a shop
If you have something you want to get worked on feel free to email me at carthageclassiccars@gmail.com
My Dream car 68-72 Nova. But the dream is slipping away, i’m 60 and i’m so Broke i can’t Pay Attention
haha I know the feeling I am all over the place also, thanks a lot for watching and the comment.
Keep it up!!! Get to the top quicker > 'Promo sm'.
Thanks for the advice!
Great job, great video! Thanks for sharing.
thanks appreciate it