*** PLEASE NOTE: 110 ft lbs is an INCORRECT torque spec. The CORRECT torque spec is 25 Nm (18.43 lbf ft). Always check the manual for the correct torque specs when working on your bike. We have corrected this error, plus added more detailed information in an update to this video at: th-cam.com/video/Jad4Ha64G1M/w-d-xo.htmlsi=uozXynVl2Aq1lreV.
@@MotoPhotoAdventures I saved a bunch of factory bolts screws etc off my f 800 gs when I was building it up for the TAT. Put them in a ziplock and threw them in my maintenance kit. Best thing I ever did as I had to replace two bolts on the trail and the factory ones worked.
Hi David! Welcome to the channel. Well...we've got an ENTIRE playlist of mods and hacks you can check out: th-cam.com/play/PLMpCu16Bx7xMLl4ieTqBAce95UHO5UuGT.html&si=8jOBL6HmbZusR4ij. I guarantee there are some clever ones in there that you will like. Plus I think you'd really enjoy some of our adventure travel episodes. Here's the first big adventure we did after I picked up the Tuareg...1800 miles around Nova Scotia: th-cam.com/play/PLMpCu16Bx7xPTXncD0Nn3BNq6E_id2I5B.html&si=0n4yMBbT8SGy0wrg. Enjoy!!!
Don' do this Mod !!!!! The Titanium is weaker in shear than the Steel screw it replaces. Cut a slot in end for a screwdriver in OEM screw to extract broken off threaded portion from rear & carry a spare screw in toolkit.
Very interesting! I've never heard this anywhere. Do you have any data? I'm genuinely curious...especially since I just did an update to this video where I purchased a second one for my brake lever side: th-cam.com/video/Jad4Ha64G1M/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bEzlNDYjg4Ly5UqG. My contact at AF1 Racing says they can't keep these bolts in stock...in other words it's a very popular upgrade.
Hi Brie! You are clearly more knowledgeable than I am on this subject. I am certainly no expert. So I asked my contact at AF1 Racing and here is his reply: "We've sold over 150 of them now, and haven’t heard of one single one breaking or making the situation worse." Yet we hear of people breaking their OEM one quite frequently, don't we? As we all know, this is the same bolt used on many other Aprilia and Moto Guzzi street bikes...which nobody expects to take over rocks and roots in the forests and mountains. So maybe he's right? Maybe Aprilia should have not used the same bolt for the Tuareg since it's an adventure bike? Like I said, I'm not an expert. But if nobody else has reported a problem with using the Titanium bolt, I'm going to keep using it.
Titanium is generally stronger than Steel & obviously much lighter, great on a race bike. But it is weaker than Steel in shear (sideways force) the force it would be subject to in this application. It also Galls & the threads "pick up" if not lubricated (if lubricated the torque wrench setting needs reducing by approx 25%) So if snapped off extracting the remaining thread is much harder. Its probable Aprilia OEM bolt is designed to break off to prevent damage elsewhere. The properties of the various metal are well known each has its own strengths & weaknesses but need consideration depending on application.
Hi Brie! You are clearly more knowledgeable than I am on this subject. I am certainly no expert. So I asked my contact at AF1 Racing and here is his reply: "We've sold over 150 of them now, and haven’t heard of one single one breaking or making the situation worse." Yet we hear of people breaking their OEM one quite frequently, don't we? As we all know, this is the same bolt used on many other Aprilia and Moto Guzzi street bikes...which nobody expects to take over rocks and roots in the forests and mountains. So maybe he's right? Maybe Aprilia should have not used the same bolt for the Tuareg since it's an adventure bike? Like I said, I'm not an expert. But if nobody else has reported a problem with using the Titanium bolt, I'm going to keep using it.
Hi Mike! The ones in this video are from T-Rex Racing. I did a complete video review of it in my Tuareg Playlist if you want to check it out: th-cam.com/play/PLMpCu16Bx7xMLl4ieTqBAce95UHO5UuGT.html&si=zuDP8A1ctaOx8oxo. Lots of other good tips in the playlist you might like as well. And we're adding more videos each week. The Tuareg is a new project bike for us...so stay tuned for more!
Good question. It's been asked before. But I don't believe that's the case in this situation. The bolts are "borrowed" parts from Aprilia/Guzzi street bikes. So they weren't designed to take the abuse that an adventure bike gets. We did an update to this video that I think will help answer some questions: th-cam.com/video/Jad4Ha64G1M/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5wWR58v0G2smo7B-.
Oh stop… the Ti bolt has much less sheer strength than steel….it’s about bragging at the local pub.. and should the Ti bolt be subjected to the same forces which result in a steel bolt failure….the Ti bolt may not fail… but the aluminum mount on the frame will…hmmm broken steel bolt vs broken mounting hole….. what would smart money do ? And good luck drilling out that broken Ti bolt….
My wife and I both have Tuaregs. We have a 23 and a 24. I ordered four of these bolts and if I torque them to 25nm the shifter and brake pedals won’t move. I was meticulous in keeping the o-rings in place. If I back off to 20nm they both work. Poking around it seems titanium bolts need less torque particularly when lubricated with anti seize. Anyone else have to use less torque? I don’t want them to fall out but 25nm doesn’t work. I wonder if there are differences in design for 23 and 24 models. I’ve found a number of small changes between the 24 and the 23.
That's very intersting! But it makes perfect sense. I think 20nm seems reasonable. If I were in your shoes, I would reach out to AF1 Racing. They have excellent support and a lot of knowledge about their products.
Yeah you can sanity check pretty easy, there are lookup tables for the material / thread size / bolt size to show how much load physics can support. Most of the torque specs are just coming from this, but there are probably many reasons for variations as well.
![🎤 ไปกันต่อออ! จับฉลากร้องเพลง x P’ #XXSIVK [EP.2] (1/2) เพลงของใครจึ้งสุดน้าา 💓🎤 #MXFRUIT](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mLI_K0sAS4o/mqdefault.jpg)
I noticed on invoice that came with my titanium bolt that AF1 made a note recommending the use of anti-seize lubricant on the threads.
This is true! I've ordered a second titanium pivit bolt for my rear brake pedal and will mention that when I do that video.
I just snapped the titanium bolt off trying to swap out the oem one!!
That's crazy! I would reach out to AF1 Racing. That shouldn't happen. Did you order their antisieze solution?
*** PLEASE NOTE: 110 ft lbs is an INCORRECT torque spec. The CORRECT torque spec is 25 Nm (18.43 lbf ft). Always check the manual for the correct torque specs when working on your bike. We have corrected this error, plus added more detailed information in an update to this video at: th-cam.com/video/Jad4Ha64G1M/w-d-xo.htmlsi=uozXynVl2Aq1lreV.
From the number of bolt failures reported on the Facebook group, this seems like sound decision. - Frank
Yup...and an easy fix to make! Thanks for the comment.
Don’t forget to throw the old one into your tool bag to have as a spare.
Oooh...excellent tip, my friend! - Chris
@@MotoPhotoAdventures
I saved a bunch of factory bolts screws etc off my f 800 gs when I was building it up for the TAT. Put them in a ziplock and threw them in my maintenance kit. Best thing I ever did as I had to replace two bolts on the trail and the factory ones worked.
@@scudrunneradv3269 that is seriously a fantastic tip, man! Thank you!!!
If you're going to upgrade one bolt at a time, not only will you have to make 482 (I counted them) videos, but you'll never have time to ride! LOL
Anything for content! 😂 - Frank
@@OneOldManRiding correct
HAHA...great point, Steven! I just know this is a common point of failure. So don't worry, I'll be leaving the other 481 alone. 🙂
Thanks for this. It seems like every bike I've ever owned had a "do this as soon as you get it home" list. Any more for the Tuareg?
Hi David! Welcome to the channel. Well...we've got an ENTIRE playlist of mods and hacks you can check out: th-cam.com/play/PLMpCu16Bx7xMLl4ieTqBAce95UHO5UuGT.html&si=8jOBL6HmbZusR4ij. I guarantee there are some clever ones in there that you will like. Plus I think you'd really enjoy some of our adventure travel episodes. Here's the first big adventure we did after I picked up the Tuareg...1800 miles around Nova Scotia: th-cam.com/play/PLMpCu16Bx7xPTXncD0Nn3BNq6E_id2I5B.html&si=0n4yMBbT8SGy0wrg. Enjoy!!!
Don' do this Mod !!!!! The Titanium is weaker in shear than the Steel screw it replaces.
Cut a slot in end for a screwdriver in OEM screw to extract broken off threaded portion from rear & carry a spare screw in toolkit.
Very interesting! I've never heard this anywhere. Do you have any data? I'm genuinely curious...especially since I just did an update to this video where I purchased a second one for my brake lever side: th-cam.com/video/Jad4Ha64G1M/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bEzlNDYjg4Ly5UqG. My contact at AF1 Racing says they can't keep these bolts in stock...in other words it's a very popular upgrade.
Hi Brie! You are clearly more knowledgeable than I am on this subject. I am certainly no expert. So I asked my contact at AF1 Racing and here is his reply: "We've sold over 150 of them now, and haven’t heard of one single one breaking or making the situation worse." Yet we hear of people breaking their OEM one quite frequently, don't we? As we all know, this is the same bolt used on many other Aprilia and Moto Guzzi street bikes...which nobody expects to take over rocks and roots in the forests and mountains. So maybe he's right? Maybe Aprilia should have not used the same bolt for the Tuareg since it's an adventure bike? Like I said, I'm not an expert. But if nobody else has reported a problem with using the Titanium bolt, I'm going to keep using it.
Titanium is generally stronger than Steel & obviously much lighter, great on a race bike.
But it is weaker than Steel in shear (sideways force) the force it would be subject to in this application.
It also Galls & the threads "pick up" if not lubricated (if lubricated the torque wrench setting needs reducing by approx 25%) So if snapped off extracting the remaining thread is much harder.
Its probable Aprilia OEM bolt is designed to break off to prevent damage elsewhere.
The properties of the various metal are well known each has its own strengths & weaknesses but need consideration depending on application.
Hi Brie! You are clearly more knowledgeable than I am on this subject. I am certainly no expert. So I asked my contact at AF1 Racing and here is his reply: "We've sold over 150 of them now, and haven’t heard of one single one breaking or making the situation worse." Yet we hear of people breaking their OEM one quite frequently, don't we? As we all know, this is the same bolt used on many other Aprilia and Moto Guzzi street bikes...which nobody expects to take over rocks and roots in the forests and mountains. So maybe he's right? Maybe Aprilia should have not used the same bolt for the Tuareg since it's an adventure bike? Like I said, I'm not an expert. But if nobody else has reported a problem with using the Titanium bolt, I'm going to keep using it.
👍thanks a lot for this very value tip. I recognized the beautiful crash bars on your aprilia, where did you get them?
Hi Mike! The ones in this video are from T-Rex Racing. I did a complete video review of it in my Tuareg Playlist if you want to check it out: th-cam.com/play/PLMpCu16Bx7xMLl4ieTqBAce95UHO5UuGT.html&si=zuDP8A1ctaOx8oxo. Lots of other good tips in the playlist you might like as well. And we're adding more videos each week. The Tuareg is a new project bike for us...so stay tuned for more!
If it breaks out on the dirt... and if you have a spare - how do you remove the old threaded portion?
That's exactly correct! I'm currently uploading un "update" video that addresses questions like that.
If the bolt doesn’t break, what does? A lot of times things are reigned to break to save more expensive or important parts!!
Good question. It's been asked before. But I don't believe that's the case in this situation. The bolts are "borrowed" parts from Aprilia/Guzzi street bikes. So they weren't designed to take the abuse that an adventure bike gets. We did an update to this video that I think will help answer some questions: th-cam.com/video/Jad4Ha64G1M/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5wWR58v0G2smo7B-.
Oh stop… the Ti bolt has much less sheer strength than steel….it’s about bragging at the local pub.. and should the Ti bolt be subjected to the same forces which result in a steel bolt failure….the Ti bolt may not fail… but the aluminum mount on the frame will…hmmm broken steel bolt vs broken mounting hole….. what would smart money do ?
And good luck drilling out that broken Ti bolt….
Thanks for watching! Cheers...
My wife and I both have Tuaregs. We have a 23 and a 24. I ordered four of these bolts and if I torque them to 25nm the shifter and brake pedals won’t move. I was meticulous in keeping the o-rings in place. If I back off to 20nm they both work. Poking around it seems titanium bolts need less torque particularly when lubricated with anti seize. Anyone else have to use less torque? I don’t want them to fall out but 25nm doesn’t work. I wonder if there are differences in design for 23 and 24 models. I’ve found a number of small changes between the 24 and the 23.
That's very intersting! But it makes perfect sense. I think 20nm seems reasonable. If I were in your shoes, I would reach out to AF1 Racing. They have excellent support and a lot of knowledge about their products.
Don’t use ty bolts in sheer situations!!
They will break faster!!
Grade 8 or 9 or Chromoly.
Thanks for sharing!
110Nm?
Yeah...I was given that number in one of the forums. But it's WAY off! I believe the correct number is around 30
Yeah you can sanity check pretty easy, there are lookup tables for the material / thread size / bolt size to show how much load physics can support. Most of the torque specs are just coming from this, but there are probably many reasons for variations as well.