Posting this comment after I just finished rebuilding my 93’ D4C SE. Thank you so much for going step by step and helping me rebuild my childhood vacuum! 😁
Thank you for putting this together. I just completed a rebuild and also encountered another issue. The aluminum plates were worn and thinned out around the shaft and I had to add a washer to the shaft in order to tighten the whole assembly together. It was one of those simple things that took me too long to figure out.
Thanks for the video Bill, hope this goes good for your 97 as well. I'm picking up 2 cheap project D4's, one non-SE model and one SE, and this is a good video explaining the process of tearing the motor down to change the bearings.
After owning 1 of these for 15 years or more, i didnt know you were supposed to clean the seperator after each use..well it finally broke. After careful inspection i realized the 3/8-24 thread that is machined on the armature was so corroded that i had to drill out the brass nut that holds it on.. Well i welded a piece of 5/8 hot roll round stock on that end and turned it down to the correct dia. Then threaded the end. I just forgot how it goes back together so thanks for this video. I still have to replace the power switch before i try it
@@VacLab It works! Now i need to replace the hose and handle. It's all duct taped together. I really like the unit as i live in the desert and it collects all the dust. Just doing my room i have a collector full od mud.. Thanks again for the vid
Small complication: when I tested the parts as you did in your video, there were sparks at the top where the brushes meet the armature. Moreover, when I initially took the motor apart, there was fuzzy black stuff on top of the bearing at the base of the armature. So I talked to Auntie Google about it and read about the brushes on the manufacturer’s website. (I knew nothing about carbon brushes until I rebuilt a Black and Decker drill from the 70’s). The armature looks fine, it is not pitted or any other thing I read about when it has been damaged. So I went to order new brushes, especially since one of the sets looks like it has a very small chip at the end of the carbon brush. on fine And on the parts page, Rainbow mentions having them « seat » the brushes. It is not entirely clear (to me), what this is, but a semi-educated guess is that they gently curve the end of the brushes with some sanding tool, so the brushes meet with the armature part smoothly. So, I am wondering about all this and decided to ask you about the « seating » and anything else I may need to know. Rainbow warns that if the brushes are not « seated » correctly, they can damage the armature. They also say they will send a video with the brushes for installation - prompting me to wonder why they do not just make that video available on their website so I can figure out what they are talking about - everything is in the visual for me.
I have just changed brushes and bearings in mine but it only consumes 4,5 A maximun. Sounds good in my opinion considering its condition. It has much wear at many points and at the colector of the rotor it has a 1 mm aprox step. Maybe that low A mean that it has lost suction power ??
The rain storm at the end, was this this past weekend? Maybe even yesterday? I ask becauseI live about 3 hours from Windsor, Ontario (which is across from Detroit, MI) on Lake Huron and I was caught yesterday in a downpour. We had rain all day Sunday and a thunderstorm on Monday, so maybe the same system.
Great video, i want to replace the bearings but don't know what to google for, what should i put on google to find that type of bearings ? What is the name/specs of bearings that i need to look for ?
Thanks for the rebuild video. Just rebuilt my D4C SE. The one one problem I now have is the basin and gasket seal area are wet after use. I have replaced the side latches. That helped 70%. The only thing left is to replace the gasket. Anything else I should be aware of?
Thanks. I have a question on the aluminum fans. When rebuilding them they don't seem to be secured to the shaft. How do they spin? Airflow path? Yet they work fine. Vac has great suction.
@@VacLab the fan assembly appears to be one complex piece of engineering. They must of had good reason to build it that way... air flow dynamics and sound DB considerations. I would think other vacs would use a simple one or piece fan system. Amazing.
Thanks for the video. I have my D4B half apart. Not sure which bearing is causing the problem at this point but its smoking. It looked like you used a 6201-KK (metal both sides) at all three locations. Am I right? Thanks
Love your video! I love seeing someone put so much PRIDE in their work. Do you clean the fans when you rebuilt the vacuum? If so what do you use to clean the aluminum fan and stages?
In your video at 2:25, i see an impeller with 3 tabs on its inside diameter. How does that stay in the housing? I removed mine and it seems it needs to be in a fixed position. Thanks
Those screws underneath the pan gasket do not always remove so easily. I had to use a hammer tool that twists a Philip's bit on impact. Also, those bearings do not so willingly slide off the armature shift so easily. What was used to polish up the comutator?
Thanks for the video! This is an amazing vacuum cleaner made in the USA! I'm throm Russia, I have this cleaner. I can not understand. There is a place for a thermal fuse, why isn't it used?
I think that my request about information on replacing the thermal fuse and or power switch comment was deleted on the other video you have on your Channel. My 3rd hand D4C most likely was ran without water, and now does not power up at all.
well.. I got it running.. at this point Im thinking a newer unit would be much better to own..but this is a start. I learned a lot from taking it apart and putting it back together.
Hi. I have a Rainbow se but after I took the rubber gasket that presses against the water bowl I dont have all those screws to remove that metal plate. How do I remove it?
Mine only had 3 screws for some reason. Yours should come right off unless it was sealed with something or glued on? Try prying it off carefully. Could have corrosion holding it there also??
Excellent instructor video step by step congratulations, I am now in the procedure of a deep rebuild on a d4se and your video helped a lot,, I want to ask as you are expert, I see online as a replacement of the air spider a black part with less plastic shroud than the grey one that the vacuum has from the factory, do you know if that provides better air turbulence? See below the picture’s thanks.imgur.com/IWttMvS
Posting this comment after I just finished rebuilding my 93’ D4C SE. Thank you so much for going step by step and helping me rebuild my childhood vacuum! 😁
@@mich7328 Yay!
Thank you for putting this together. I just completed a rebuild and also encountered another issue. The aluminum plates were worn and thinned out around the shaft and I had to add a washer to the shaft in order to tighten the whole assembly together. It was one of those simple things that took me too long to figure out.
You are very welcome and glad everything worked out in the end.
Hi! I got new brushes, and it works perfectly now! Thank you so much for your video!
Fabulous!
Thanks bud! You've helped me fix my friend's vacuum. All the best
Glad to be of service.
Glad to be of service.
Thanks for the video Bill, hope this goes good for your 97 as well. I'm picking up 2 cheap project D4's, one non-SE model and one SE, and this is a good video explaining the process of tearing the motor down to change the bearings.
Thanks!
After owning 1 of these for 15 years or more, i didnt know you were supposed to clean the seperator after each use..well it finally broke. After careful inspection i realized the 3/8-24 thread that is machined on the armature was so corroded that i had to drill out the brass nut that holds it on.. Well i welded a piece of 5/8 hot roll round stock on that end and turned it down to the correct dia. Then threaded the end. I just forgot how it goes back together so thanks for this video. I still have to replace the power switch before i try it
Good luck!
@@VacLab
Thanks. Im going to need it. As soon as the jb weld dries on that seperator housing its all going back together
@@VacLab
It works! Now i need to replace the hose and handle. It's all duct taped together. I really like the unit as i live in the desert and it collects all the dust. Just doing my room i have a collector full od mud..
Thanks again for the vid
Small complication: when I tested the parts as you did in your video, there were sparks at the top where the brushes meet the armature. Moreover, when I initially took the motor apart, there was fuzzy black stuff on top of the bearing at the base of the armature. So I talked to Auntie Google about it and read about the brushes on the manufacturer’s website. (I knew nothing about carbon brushes until I rebuilt a Black and Decker drill from the 70’s). The armature looks fine, it is not pitted or any other thing I read about when it has been damaged. So I went to order new brushes, especially since one of the sets looks like it has a very small chip at the end of the carbon brush. on fine And on the parts page, Rainbow mentions having them « seat » the brushes. It is not entirely clear (to me), what this is, but a semi-educated guess is that they gently curve the end of the brushes with some sanding tool, so the brushes meet with the armature part smoothly. So, I am wondering about all this and decided to ask you about the « seating » and anything else I may need to know. Rainbow warns that if the brushes are not « seated » correctly, they can damage the armature. They also say they will send a video with the brushes for installation - prompting me to wonder why they do not just make that video available on their website so I can figure out what they are talking about - everything is in the visual for me.
The commutator is what I should have said instead of armature.
Great video Bill awesome Job, love the timelapse music. Keep up the awesome content you are smashing it. That was lot of rain at the end of the video
Great video, I would like to know what you used to clean the motor's rotor where the brushes run against ?
It's a seating/polishing stone. I think I paid $4 for it.
@@VacLab from where?
@@tmotorman search Google and eBay. I nabbed mine many years ago.
Excellent video with great camera positions and narration.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I have just changed brushes and bearings in mine but it only consumes 4,5 A maximun. Sounds good in my opinion considering its condition. It has much wear at many points and at the colector of the rotor it has a 1 mm aprox step. Maybe that low A mean that it has lost suction power ??
4.5 Amps is OK if you have 220VAC, but not if you have 120VAC. Are you located in Europe?
@@VacLab Yes. Must be that. Thanx a lot!
The rain storm at the end, was this this past weekend? Maybe even yesterday? I ask becauseI live about 3 hours from Windsor, Ontario (which is across from Detroit, MI) on Lake Huron and I was caught yesterday in a downpour. We had rain all day Sunday and a thunderstorm on Monday, so maybe the same system.
The storm occurred about 12 hours before the video was recorded. I believe Monday evening in Ohio.
@@VacLab It probably was the same system, then, but I could be wrong.
Great video, i want to replace the bearings but don't know what to google for, what should i put on google to find that type of bearings ? What is the name/specs of bearings that i need to look for ?
They sell complete bearing sets on ebay. Just go there and search for your model vac / machine. Should only be $10. or $12.
Thanks for the rebuild video. Just rebuilt my D4C SE.
The one one problem I now have is the basin and gasket seal area are wet after use.
I have replaced the side latches. That helped 70%.
The only thing left is to replace the gasket.
Anything else I should be aware of?
The basin and gasket will always be slightly wet after use.
Thanks.
I have a question on the aluminum fans.
When rebuilding them they don't seem to be secured to the shaft.
How do they spin? Airflow path?
Yet they work fine. Vac has great suction.
@@billdukacz166 fans are normally never secured to the shaft. They will all spin normally when compressed together by the nuts.
@@VacLab the fan assembly appears to be one complex piece of engineering.
They must of had good reason to build it that way... air flow dynamics and sound DB considerations.
I would think other vacs would use a simple one or piece fan system. Amazing.
Thanks for the video. I have my D4B half apart. Not sure which bearing is causing the problem at this point but its smoking. It looked like you used a 6201-KK (metal both sides) at all three locations. Am I right? Thanks
Shouldn't matter. All new bearings are sealed anyway. Not sure they even make the metal side seals anymore.
Love your video! I love seeing someone put so much PRIDE in their work. Do you clean the fans when you rebuilt the vacuum? If so what do you use to clean the aluminum fan and stages?
I put them in the sink with dish detergent and use a tooth brush.
In your video at 2:25, i see an impeller with 3 tabs on its inside diameter. How does that stay in the housing? I removed mine and it seems it needs to be in a fixed position. Thanks
Go to partswarehouse.com for an exploded parts diagram for a D4C.
@@VacLab
It was upside down
Those screws underneath the pan gasket do not always remove so easily. I had to use a hammer tool that twists a Philip's bit on impact.
Also, those bearings do not so willingly slide off the armature shift so easily.
What was used to polish up the comutator?
I use a seating stone. Search eBay or Google for one.
I have few hoover windtunnels from the 90's and 00's, but I don't know the size of the bearings are
I did the same to mine, sounds great! I wonder if you will make some particles test now that it was completely cleaned
Changing the bearings and polishing the commutator wouldn't affect the particle emissions.
How much do you normally charge for a rebuild like this? Do you also replace the motor brushes? Thanks
Good job buddy
Thanks for the video! This is an amazing vacuum cleaner made in the USA! I'm throm Russia, I have this cleaner. I can not understand. There is a place for a thermal fuse, why isn't it used?
This is a self cooling motor. Notice the small top fan and white hood? Also realize the bottom fans are moving cool air from the water.
Are the bearings used the 608zz bearings?
I think that my request about information on replacing the thermal fuse and or power switch comment was deleted on the other video you have on your Channel. My 3rd hand D4C most likely was ran without water, and now does not power up at all.
You need to trace the electrical paths with an ohm meter to check for connectivity.
@@VacLab Thank You. I believe heat builds up once the unit is powered down and the thermal fuse fails at that point..is this likey the cause?
@@theo.i.c.channel1908 take it to a repair shop for evaluation.
well.. I got it running.. at this point Im thinking a newer unit would be much better to own..but this is a start. I learned a lot from taking it apart and putting it back together.
@@theo.i.c.channel1908 you can learn quite a bit from the disassembly and re-assembly process. Glad to hear it's running again.
Hi. I have a Rainbow se but after I took the rubber gasket that presses against the water bowl I dont have all those screws to remove that metal plate. How do I remove it?
All the D4C SE's I've seen have screws in the metal plate.
Mine only had 3 screws for some reason. Yours should come right off unless it was sealed with something or glued on? Try prying it off carefully. Could have corrosion holding it there also??
what was used to clean the shaft at speed near the brushes?
Pumice
How long was the video in real time?
Over 30 minutes.
what is the name / size of bearing that i need to look for ?
All three are 6201 types. I get everything from eBay in a 10 pack.
@@VacLab thx :)
Good ending! 👍
You need to talk to tell me what you’re doing
Great! It's a safe for.me. greetings of Rome!
Make a video a 1997 rainbow refurbished
@ChaseTheNewYears2024 it would look the same as the 1993 model.
@@VacLab Do a 1993 Rainbow Vacuum D4C SE Whole House Cleaning Refurbished
No hepa filter on d4?!🤬
HEPA filtration arrived with the E2 series in 1998.
Excellent instructor video step by step congratulations, I am now in the procedure of a deep rebuild on a d4se and your video helped a lot,, I want to ask as you are expert, I see online as a replacement of the air spider a black part with less plastic shroud than the grey one that the vacuum has from the factory, do you know if that provides better air turbulence? See below the picture’s thanks.imgur.com/IWttMvS