Great video, but just a quick physics correction. The graph you show at 1:04 is only relevant in deep water conditions, i.e. before the wave starts to feel the bottom. Under shallow water conditions the speed of a wave is controlled only by the water depth, meaning all waves in a given depth will travel at the same speed once they get to where they actually break (assuming the same bottom medium). The reason high period swell is more challenging is just because the wave size and energy is much greater, not the speed.
Some the wipeouts in this vid could very well have been from too much volume, or too much width in the tail - like at 4:55. A board tailored for long period swells has a lot more involved than just bumping up volume. In the example you provided - if you proportionately went from 30 to 40L keeping length, foil and outline identical you’ll end up with oversized/fat rails that will be a disaster. ...go ahead n ask me how I know ; )
A tip for the number 2 mistake: Take a good heavy wipeout at first, then you'll be more relax than ever ! If you survive ! Lol I've learned on Reunion Island reed breaks. To me there was no choice. Learning to barrel ride was meaning getting cut and smashed on alive coral reefs. Even just learning to surf means that in such places. You get used to it. But I must admit that places like Mentawai is another challenge. Very fast and hollow waves with thick and long long multiples barrels.
Great video Christie, With regards to volume is it more how its distributed in the chest to allow better paddling.. but refined in tail to allow control and hold in the powerful wave face? The advanced surfer definitely shows more composure and the line they draw is not too high or too low in the tube. The lower ability surfer appears to panic or freeze on the takeoff, or move their upper body excessively going down the line. Seems like a lot of the surfers were out of their depth but I bet I would be too without extensive experience surfing reefs, getting used to the power and energy of the swell.
Hi Phil, Christie here, thanks for your comment. My basic theory is that your torso is the heaviest part of your body, so if you want to paddle fast, keep your torso out of the water. Regarding your second observation, I think most of the surfers in these wipeouts didn't have enough volume to get them in early enough. But the second point which I didn't touch on is most surfers lean back when they realize they're going to take a late drop, which is not what experienced surfers do. Get over your board by leaning forward, and follow the board through the drop. If you lean back, as soon as your board finds traction, its going to accelerate without you on it. Of course, leaning too far forward leads to a nose dive, and that balance is at the heart of the conundrum during late drops.
Main factor, I agree is volume, but if it isn't right fir the type of wave or just so fitting, the ROCKER and FOIL contours can allow you to slip in and)or drop down the curved face OR slow that entry if wrong. Independent of overall volume. I had two such identical boards, with different volumes, however the foil on the thinner was different, but got me into any waves in California, so much earlier.
More rocker for hollow powerful waves. The last thing you want are thick rails. Go 3 to 4 inches longer then you short board. If you want a little more volume get a board like a Timmy Patterson as he puts it in the middle of board. Make sure your fitness is on point. Volume isn't always the answer. A place like sunset you will want more volume to absorb the chop and get in.
i got a very nice board way back when volume and liters was no big deal and the latest fins wernt around the old boards were doing real fine on the reef breaks but as they say the times they are changing
@@IanBartleson there are a lot of waves in Mentawai that are more mellow. The WavePark area has 26 waves and at least 1/2 of those would be doable on your 7'2.
@@koro287 Its not to tough, watch the beer, sugar and just eat green stuff till your not hungry. Easy on the meats and cheese :O I jogged to hurry up the metabolic process, but eating different and drinking less beers is what realy did it. See I lost that 40, and started drinking again while still doing the same routine workouts, started gaining weight RIGHT away.
@@koro287 You got this dude, if your in a place with alot of wave action actually you could just surf instead of jog, I live in cape canaveral so we get pretty flat summers.
Having more volume is not good advice. The first thing is if you aren’t confident in heavy water waves then don’t out on slabbing reef breaks. In powerful waves you want less volume unless you are surfing massive waves like waimea. But if you are talking about hollow 6-8 ft your much better off going with a longs board but keep the volume the same. Having too much volume in Powerful waves will cause your rails to be to boxy and not sink into the wave which will cause you to slide out. . You want more volume in smaller waves as you want the board to float more. In more powerful waves you want it to sink into the face. I ride less volume in reef breaks compared to beach breaks as generally you are surfin into a channel and you don’t need the paddle power.
Agree 100% - I've never been to the Ments but surf plenty of long period swell (mostly 12 - 20 second interval) all winter and adding volume is the last thing that comes to mind. It's all about length plain and simple. I am in good surfing shape and can ride a regular shortboard efficiently in head high hollow surf up to into about a 15, maybe 16 second period at the right beach or reef. Beyond that you're pushing it precarious and missing some... and by 18 seconds pretty much everything is slipping underneath you. And even some spots require something longer starting at head high and 14 secs. Length and proper foil+rocker is what gives you paddle power, not volume. Pretty amazing some lifelong surfers NEVER pick up on this - too entranced by pros riding small equipment in powerful hollow surf and not realizing a lot of pros have Michael Phelps paddle power. You watch these guys getting pitched all day long and missing waves while riding a shortboard at their height and they just can't figure out what they're doing wrong lol.
I think the biggest mistake is when a low-intermediate decides to travel to the other side of the globe to attempt surfing a world-class advanced wave. Nothing worse than having to give a wave to a knuckle-head who shouldn't even be out in the line-up.
Lol. No biggest mistake surfing over reefs is not being skilled enough to surf over reefs. Thickness of board is not that critical for an experienced rider.
Great advice from one of the most experienced Mentawai reef surfers. Thank you Christie Wavepark
NEED more videos like this. SO GOOD!
Great video, but just a quick physics correction. The graph you show at 1:04 is only relevant in deep water conditions, i.e. before the wave starts to feel the bottom. Under shallow water conditions the speed of a wave is controlled only by the water depth, meaning all waves in a given depth will travel at the same speed once they get to where they actually break (assuming the same bottom medium). The reason high period swell is more challenging is just because the wave size and energy is much greater, not the speed.
Some the wipeouts in this vid could very well have been from too much volume, or too much width in the tail - like at 4:55.
A board tailored for long period swells has a lot more involved than just bumping up volume.
In the example you provided - if you proportionately went from 30 to 40L keeping length, foil and outline identical you’ll end up with oversized/fat rails that will be a disaster. ...go ahead n ask me how I know ; )
Man these videos are perfect
Thanks for the support.
A tip for the number 2 mistake:
Take a good heavy wipeout at first, then you'll be more relax than ever !
If you survive ! Lol
I've learned on Reunion Island reed breaks. To me there was no choice.
Learning to barrel ride was meaning getting cut and smashed on alive coral reefs. Even just learning to surf means that in such places.
You get used to it.
But I must admit that places like Mentawai is another challenge. Very fast and hollow waves with thick and long long multiples barrels.
Best Advice ever -- Took it as a grom and now regular practice, especially when it's YOOOJ
bonbondesel c c
Nice formula...throw in some Rocker too it also really helps on the steep drops.
Great video Christie, With regards to volume is it more how its distributed in the chest to allow better paddling.. but refined in tail to allow control and hold in the powerful wave face?
The advanced surfer definitely shows more composure and the line they draw is not too high or too low in the tube. The lower ability surfer appears to panic or freeze on the takeoff, or move their upper body excessively going down the line. Seems like a lot of the surfers were out of their depth but I bet I would be too without extensive experience surfing reefs, getting used to the power and energy of the swell.
Hi Phil, Christie here, thanks for your comment. My basic theory is that your torso is the heaviest part of your body, so if you want to paddle fast, keep your torso out of the water.
Regarding your second observation, I think most of the surfers in these wipeouts didn't have enough volume to get them in early enough. But the second point which I didn't touch on is most surfers lean back when they realize they're going to take a late drop, which is not what experienced surfers do. Get over your board by leaning forward, and follow the board through the drop. If you lean back, as soon as your board finds traction, its going to accelerate without you on it. Of course, leaning too far forward leads to a nose dive, and that balance is at the heart of the conundrum during late drops.
Main factor, I agree is volume, but if it isn't right fir the type of wave or just so fitting, the ROCKER and FOIL contours can allow you to slip in and)or drop down the curved face OR slow that entry if wrong.
Independent of overall volume.
I had two such identical boards, with different volumes, however the foil on the thinner was different, but got me into any waves in California, so much earlier.
More rocker for hollow powerful waves. The last thing you want are thick rails. Go 3 to 4 inches longer then you short board. If you want a little more volume get a board like a Timmy Patterson as he puts it in the middle of board.
Make sure your fitness is on point. Volume isn't always the answer. A place like sunset you will want more volume to absorb the chop and get in.
i got a very nice board way back when volume and liters was no big deal and the latest fins wernt around the old boards were doing real fine on the reef breaks but as they say the times they are changing
Brilliant video...is there a part 1 somewhere on mistakes? Haha nvm found it👌
Do you think a 7’2 single fin would be good for these waves?
Depends on how well you know how to ride the board. Have you tested it before in serious hollow waves?
@@christiecarter no, I’ve only ridden it once
@@IanBartleson there are a lot of waves in Mentawai that are more mellow. The WavePark area has 26 waves and at least 1/2 of those would be doable on your 7'2.
awesome thank you!
never hurts to lose a little weight too if your a heavier guy. I lost 40 pounds now the lip can throw me way further.
LOL ! love it. But thats the truth and as an old guy thats my focus now,not trying to buy my way out !
@@koro287 Its not to tough, watch the beer, sugar and just eat green stuff till your not hungry. Easy on the meats and cheese :O I jogged to hurry up the metabolic process, but eating different and drinking less beers is what realy did it. See I lost that 40, and started drinking again while still doing the same routine workouts, started gaining weight RIGHT away.
@@koro287 You got this dude, if your in a place with alot of wave action actually you could just surf instead of jog, I live in cape canaveral so we get pretty flat summers.
Having more volume is not good advice. The first thing is if you aren’t confident in heavy water waves then don’t out on slabbing reef breaks. In powerful waves you want less volume unless you are surfing massive waves like waimea. But if you are talking about hollow 6-8 ft your much better off going with a longs board but keep the volume the same. Having too much volume in Powerful waves will cause your rails to be to boxy and not sink into the wave which will cause you to slide out. . You want more volume in smaller waves as you want the board to float more. In more powerful waves you want it to sink into the face. I ride less volume in reef breaks compared to beach breaks as generally you are surfin into a channel and you don’t need the paddle power.
Agree 100% - I've never been to the Ments but surf plenty of long period swell (mostly 12 - 20 second interval) all winter and adding volume is the last thing that comes to mind. It's all about length plain and simple. I am in good surfing shape and can ride a regular shortboard efficiently in head high hollow surf up to into about a 15, maybe 16 second period at the right beach or reef. Beyond that you're pushing it precarious and missing some... and by 18 seconds pretty much everything is slipping underneath you. And even some spots require something longer starting at head high and 14 secs. Length and proper foil+rocker is what gives you paddle power, not volume. Pretty amazing some lifelong surfers NEVER pick up on this - too entranced by pros riding small equipment in powerful hollow surf and not realizing a lot of pros have Michael Phelps paddle power. You watch these guys getting pitched all day long and missing waves while riding a shortboard at their height and they just can't figure out what they're doing wrong lol.
Thank you sir
thank you for this. WIll do
You're so welcome!
🔥🔥🔥
Thanks!
And no Giant Kick Outs!!
simply put
My advise is crack open a cold one and watch other surfers make mistakes from the shore. Much safer :)
I think the biggest mistake is when a low-intermediate decides to travel to the other side of the globe to attempt surfing a world-class advanced wave. Nothing worse than having to give a wave to a knuckle-head who shouldn't even be out in the line-up.
Lol. No biggest mistake surfing over reefs is not being skilled enough to surf over reefs. Thickness of board is not that critical for an experienced rider.
All u have done is show guys that aren't great surfers that are out of there depth
Which is about 50% of all surfers when the swell gets over 6ft.
@@wavepark Agreed. I was out there in 2017 and needed more volume.