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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ม.ค. 2019
- Here is a how to guide to leveling you PRUSA i3 MK3 with nylock lock nuts.
This is my first video, so let me know what you would like to see in the future, or if you have any questions.
Here is a link to the gethub post where I got the information: github.com/PrusaOwners/prusao...
Here is a link to the nylock nuts on amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Here is a link to octoprint: octoprint.org/
Here is a link to the octoprint plugin for PRUSA mesh bed leveling: github.com/PrusaOwners/OctoPr...
To make the leveling faster: A M3 Screw has a pitch of 0.5 mm. That means one complete Turn will move the bed up or down about 0.5mm per Turn. So it’s easy for you to say 90 degrees of Turning will be 0.125 mm in Z and so on
THANK YOU. My Pre-Assembled printer always had a significant ridge in the middle that I couldn't ever fix until i found your video. A couple long waits for Amazon and an evening dialing it in and I'm getting the best prints I've ever seen. Thanks for your help!
I'm so happy it helped you!
Thanks for posting this video. It's quite useful to have visual guides in addition to the online guides available. Everyone learns in different ways. Keep it up!
Wow, that was so cool to watch. Thank you. I had no idea until now. I didnt even know you could see the bed that way on your laptop.
Ben thanks for this fantastic video! I finally leveled the bed on my Prusa this evening and things are much much better! The 7x7 firmware was updated as well so I am hoping some of my first layer problems go away! Thanks again this video was perfect for helping me get this completed!
mark9328 I am so glad I was able to help!
I just followed your video for this mod, and the 3x3 calibration squares are coming out beautifully now without having to play around with bed level correction anymore!
Great job on your first video ! I look forward to more from you.
Robothut thank you so much! I am excited to continue making them.
Thanks for making this tutorial. I just bought my some nuts and i'm gonna try it this week. Just one piece of advice that might help: m3 screws have a .5mm pitch, so if your variance at one corner is, say .1 mm from the center, you should try rotating the screw by 1/5 of a full rotation (about 70 degrees). this should help getting things tuned more quickly.
Really helpful I wish I fouund this video a year ago when I got My Prusa MK3s and then I wouldn't have bought another expensive Pinda probe sensor.
Thank you for explaining this process in a video.
Thanks a ton for making this video, man. It really helps me to visualize what I have to do :)
Also, for your first video, you did a hell of a job! Way to go!
@@Jobobn1998 Thank you so much! I have some new videos to get out soon, I just need a little more time :-) I am so glad it helped you!
Immensely helpful. Thank you for putting this together.
I’m so glad you found it helpful!
Thanks for this video. Just went through it with my MK3S and now down to .01 variance. Thanks!
I’m so glad it worked out well for you!
Well, I just finished to adjust my bed level using the 7x7 firmware and with the bed heated.
Now, I'm having a 0.09 variance instead the hideous 0.53 from before.
Thanks again for the tutorial!
hi did u level using the 7x7 or also u use nutslocks ?? i use 7x7 but is not enought to level it. thanks
Thanks man, my bed is now at 0.02. Im so happy. Never had problems but this is a great upgrade!
That’s great!!! I’m glad it worked out for you.
@@bengadget5095 Hey Ben, one more question. Like i said my value was at 0.02, but after 1 or 2 weeks it was at about 0.6. Is that normal or Did I something wrong? Or is it normal that the value is changing?
@@TheOldKenobi I think it's normal for it to change with a couple heating cycles if you don't have the nylocks completely firm. I would do it again with the bed hot, and then make sure the screw is tight against the nylock when you are done.
Ben, I actually tightened my nylocks down between each bed leveling with a 5.5mm wrench. Then for the ones that needed adjusting, I would loosen the nylock slightly, turn the hex bolt, then retighten the nylock. It was a little more tedious but I was worried (probably for naught) that they might vibrate and loosen some. I got my total variance down to .05mm and could probably do better but half the thickness of a hair seems pretty good. Thanks for going through the process. Your video clearly went through and showed the process.
if they're nylock they won't move. ever.
Cheers Ben, great video.
Thanks!
Great video. I may give this a shot. Already have octoprint and nylock nuts, might as well.
How did it turn out? I hope it went easy for you.
Nice video, Ben. Thanks.
Thank you for posting this!
I needed this, thank you.
I'm glad it helped you! Enjoy a level bed :-)
Awesome video! Thank you.
Thank you !
Diffenetly helpful, thanks.
Thank you for the video!!!
Truly helpful. Thanks!!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching it!
Nice Video!
Nice video on the process. If you regularly print with the bed hot, you might want to redo the leveling with the bed up to temperature. The heat does make a difference.
Pete C That is great advice, I will check them again right after a print and see where it is.
@@bengadget5095 and the result is?
@@stiffler8632 I did go ahead and re-level the bed with it hot, and it is holding steady! I continue to get very flat prints off of the bed :-)
I also have an mk2 and would live to see this work on that
I wish I had a MK2 to try, but I don't even know anyone that has one. Sorry
Did you calibrate zxy after moving gantry by hand? I didn't notice. But I think I'll try this on mine. I know that there's slight deviation on mine at the front right corner.
Hey I used this technique but my printer won’t calibrate on the XYZ part, does having the spacers affect that?
Thanks for sharing! I was having an easy time printing objects small and in the center of the bed but experienced warping when I had larger prints covering the entire bed. Therefore I am going to follow the process you have lain out for us.
On another not, would you be able to share the files for the spool holders? I am going to need them when my MMU comes in. (still on back order 0.o) Maybe a thingiverse link? Ty.
Here is the link to the new spool holders that I am printing now (they fit in the RepKord Repbox) www.thingiverse.com/thing:3516858 Here is the link to the spool holders that I have in the video: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3338467
Ben
Could you tell me where you got the´spacer you used? Also, what is that white power supply looking thing on the left side rear?
Donald Olsen the spacer was the original ones that came with the printer. The white power supply thing, is a new enclosure for the einsey board and a raspberry pi together.
You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. Thank you!! Have you had good luck with the mmu?
Thank you ! Yes, I have had a great experience with the MMU2, check out my Instagram for some examples: instagram.com/ben_at_bengadget/
Did you also do the firmware tweak mentioned on the github post? Also, can you confirm that this modification showed real differences in your first layer prints?
I did not do the firmware tweak, as it’s been about 20 years since I’ve compiled anything. :-( My MK3 and MMUv2 have been working well and didn’t want to mess with it.)
I started a 15 hour print or so late last night and have not seen the results from it yet, but it looks great so far. On my other MK3 I also leveled and printed about an eight hour print of the LCD panel for my new Railcore II 300 ZL that I’m waiting to ship :-) and it looks great!
Great stuff. I bought my printer used. Do you know what size spacer you used?
Are used the spacer that came with it just only one of them instead of nine.
Really appreciate the video but would've been great to get a close up shot of everything though.
Your video made this nice and simple. Why are the nuts installed backwards though?
I put them on backwards as I thought that they would give less resistance while adjusting and less heat transfer.
Down to 0.042. Thinking about locktite.
Hey there, got a mk2 went to 2.5 and want to do the nylock, how long are the screws that enter the top of your heatbed? And am I correct I should be able to thread them into the x carriage? because I can't on mine the bolts slide right through from the bottom into the spacers.
The screws for the MK3 bed are: M3x12. You should be able to thread them into the X carriage, but I removed the spacers between the bed and the carriage (that's where the nylock nuts go.) I don't know if it's the same on the MK2 or 2.5 as I don't have one, nor do I know anyone that does :-(
Shouldn't you go and tighten the nylock now so it doesn't move? Aka hold the screw in place and tighten the nylock against the bed?
If not it seems like this would move over time from heating and cooling.
if you don't want to buy additional parts, disassemble everything and reassemble do as I do, just add paper washers where the top is lower and slightly file the steel spacers where the top is high with this method I managed to obtain the same results and I believe is even better because more solid ... however both methods are valid ... change everything with the nylock method, or go to act on the original supports as I did
That is a valid option for sure! It's just not adjustable if you need to again (either to replace the bearings or just as parts wear.)
BenGadget yes exactly it is more difficult, and slow to do ... and as you say you cannot correct precisely as with the mod ... anyway to correct the very crooked areas you can do so ... thanks for the video guide !!
Nice video, what about vibrations? I had issues with nylock in the past, screws where vibrating inside the frame
I haven't had any so far. I have re-checked them a couple times, and they are still good :-)
@@bengadget5095 I'll give it a second try, maybe with brand-new screws, old ones may be a bit used, it's better to have a mechanically leveled bed :)
Did you run the XYZ calibration before or after you did the bed leveling?
After I was all done :-)
Has anyone seen any issues with using nylon lock nuts needing adjustment long term? From what I have found nylon lock nut inserts are only rated to max temp 220F.
I have a mk2.5 that I would like to do this to. I think it's a little different than the mk3 though. My standoffs are threaded on top and bottom. There is a screw holding the bed to the standoff and a screw holding the frame to the standoff. Is this how the mk3 works?
Michael Platt I don’t have any experience with the MK2 or any version there of. And sadly I don’t know anybody that has one to actually get my hands on it. Sorry, it is not how the MK3 works. On it, there is the one screw going through the heated bed, then a spacer, then it screws into the frame. This process removes the spacer so you can tighten it more than the spacer would allow. And then ads a nylock nut to keep the bed tight and not moving.
great video, however you put the nylocs on upside down according to your github link
i posted in the Github, but i will also post it here. Ever since my Nylock Upgrade, i have been unable to run a successful Calibration. where did i go wrong?
Man that’s crazy, I have not had any issues with calibration since I’ve done this on three separate MK3s.
I seem to be having an issue. I keep getting z-level enforcered when I try to do the bed leaving via OctoPrint with Prusa plug-in. Have you experienced that before.
Yeah. I had that happen. If your bed is that off to trigger Z-level enforced, you might need to do an XYZ calibration and then go back to mesh leveling.
i'm so confused on how to install this. It's not even listed under the plugins anymore for octoprint... how does one install it? I just tried doing the zip url address and it appears to have installed but I don't see the prusa bed leveling anywhere...
Do you need a Rasberry Pi on your printer to do this or you can do it, by connecting a laptop to the printer?
You can run Octoprint on a RaspberryPi or a computer (linux, mac, or windows) octoprint.org/download/
I still can’t wrap my head around what this is doing. If I got it correct, the nyloc and the screw head is capturing the bed plate? And by doing so, turning the screw will move the bed up or down? Okay, so doesn’t the pinda mesh leveling take care of any unlevelness? What is the advantage of physically leveling the bed?
If the differences of your bed are too big, abl will fail.
Man i love your video but i cant understand something! first i have mk2.5 can i do what you did? also in octoprint i have different graph for bedvisualizer
That's because he's using a different octoprint plugin. It's called PrusaMeshMap or something to that effect. I think it's the preferred one to use
Do you still need to do this now that the heatbed has spacers where you would put the nylon nuts?
Yes, it has always shipped with the spacers, unfortunately there is no way to adjust the spacers, that is why we use the NyLocks. :-)
Does this work with a Mini as well?
Do you need to tighten the nylocks underneath after you get the results you want?
Yes! You will need to hold the screw from the top and then tighten the nut against the heated bed on the bottom to keep the screw from moving again.
what is the addon called in octoprint?
Did you write the pluggin and if so will you be updating it to work with current pip?
Sorry I did not write the plug-in.
Guns are welcome on premises. 🔥🔥🔥
Cool, I got a pack of 8 M3-.50 Lock Nuts at Lowe’s for $1.98 Took me like an hour to find them haha. Lowe’s Item # 755490 Model # 127091 if anyone else is interested in getting them locally. They were tricky to find but the 3mm washers were right next to them so I would grab those too.
if the pcb is not perfectly flat then it certainly should be once you tighten it fully against all of those spacers.... if anything, its the y axis frame underneath that isnt perfectly flat, which isnt surprising especially being powder coated
I am new in 3D printing. What is Octoprint? The printing software?
When you buy a Prusa, there is not software ?
The PRUSA comes with all the software that you need (you really only need the slicer software e.g. PRUSA Slicer, Cura, Ideamaker.)
Octoprint (octoprint.org/) is software that you install on a RaspberryPi, either stock O/S or you can install OctoPi (github.com/guysoft/OctoPi)
Once you have Octoprint installed on your RaspberryPi, plub the USB port on the printer into it, and you can control your printer with it (start prints, change temps, move axis, do time lapses of prints.)
look like that is alot of work . may i know after heated up is that result difference ?
Bruce yes, there is a difference, it is better to level the bed heated up.
Maybe a stupid question but why should you do this procedure with the nylocks?
You have auto bed leveling that compensates the difference in level/height!
Or is that not precise enough, i do not understand it.
The mesh bed leveling will allow for the printer to have a virtual level bed. it will move the Z-Axis (hotend) up and down to have the same height first layer.
This is great for first layer adhesion, however it doesn't actually make the whole print level and square. This is really only a problem when you are printing large, flat, or full bed prints. At that point, you want to have a truly level bed, so your part is actually flat and square.
I hope this helps, let me know if I can clarify anymore.
@@bengadget5095 Ah i do understand it now, thanks!
I want this. How do I connect my laptop to prusa printer to do this. Do I install octoprint on windows machine.
No, typically Octoprint is installed on a RaspberryPi. Search for OctoPi to get an easy start. When it’s up and running you handle it by it’s web-interface on a device of your choice.
I just downloaded octoprint for my windows PC but I'm have trouble understanding the software and being able to use it to test the bed variance
Have you added the Bed Level Visualizer plug-in? plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/bedlevelvisualizer/
What does the nyloc nut accomplish if it just spins with the rest of the screw? I'm just curious.
Joseph Vaughn when you get to perfectly level you can lock it against the bed so it doesn’t move, or if it barely moves you can leave it as is and it doesn’t let the screw move, so your bed hight stays the same.
@@bengadget5095 Oh yep. You are right! I got mine to .03 variance, I'd say that's probably close enough. Thanks for this video, I used it a bunch.
why are the nuts build in with the nylon part facing the printbed?
I turned them over so there would be less contact with the bead for heat transfer, but in the end I don't think it makes any difference.
could you make a video showing how to get octoprint-prusameshmap? this is something I have been wanting to do but for some reason the prusa plugin will not show up.
I'll second this. I can't get it working on my setup. I am using a Raspberry pi though.
If it's not showing up in the plugin repository list for you, just put the URL into the install from URL field:
"github.com/PrusaOwners/OctoPrint-PrusaMeshMap/archive/master.zip" (without the quotes)
Yes, I will, I am currently working on the Railcore II 300ZL and then I will do that next :-)
i recently bought the mk3s+ and im wondering why and should i make this mod?
if you have no problems then you don't need to mess with anything. i got an mk3 a few months ago specifically so I didn't have to mess with repairs, tweaking and mods. it so nice just to print and not having to tweak things all the time. if you got a printer because you like to make and mess with things, then you can do this just for fun.
Is this like a one-time-leveling or do I need to re-level it at some point?
The prusa have mesh leveling anyway, so in theory you don't need to adjust at all the bed. But starting from a good reference is a very good approach. I don't think you need to readjust it any soon.
So the goal is to not have a bed slanted and center dipeed by 1-2mm and rely on the mesh leveling done in software but actually make the bed flat and level to start with.
In terms of printing quality is debatable. Mesh leveling is cool to print on the most croked beds with no noticable differece but still the best result is to print on a flat and level bed. this way the mesh leveling will have minimal corections to do. And if the bed becomes a bit uneven by some reason then the mesh leveling will sort it out.
It's not hard to fire up the octoprint mesh leveling plugin from time to time to see if values are still decent. They are not to be perfect. As seen in the video, the original orientation as 1mm difference! and printed flawlessly but still is nice to go from a flat condition and the mesh leveling just fine adjusting.
If you’ve done it hot you may not need to do it again. However it doesn’t hurt to check it every few months anyway.
I’m a bit confused about opening the program part , is it something you have to install ?
It can be installed on a RaspberryPi or a computer (PC or Mac)
I have now 0.011 variance ... 😎
Please explain the computer app and how you are using it, or at least a link to some explanation of it.
It's the bed leveling plugin in Octoprint.
There is a link to it in the video description. It is Octoprint + PRUSA Mech Bed Leveling plugin, running on a RasberryPi 3. I am just connecting to it via WiFi with my web browser.
@@bengadget5095 can Octoprint be installed on a Mac and be connected to the printer via USB cable?
@@mkacox Yes it can, here is a link to the setup info: github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Setup-on-Mac
Is that Octoprint? I'm trying to figure out how to get that graph and I don't have Octoprint
It's a plugin for Octoprint so you can't really do it without it.
@@Enverex That's a bummer. Feels like something that should have been in Proterface
@@JordanRosenwald The output is available directly from the printer with terminal code G81, so anything that can speak to the printer can technically get that data and do whatever it wants with it (be it create a graph, table, etc).
It is Octoprint, you can install it on your computer if you don't use a RaspberryPi: octoprint.org/download/
When bed is hot variance is 0.11 when is cold is 0.022 it’s normal? .... ok after i try to adjust all screws when bed it’s hot now i have 0.02 at 70 degrees .. and 0.06 at 85 degrees and 0.06/0.07 when bed is 60 degrees ... cool 😎
It does change with heating and cooling for sure! Very nice!
Does this still work? I installed that plugin but it would not load the image after a bed level check.
If you're having issues I would suggest getting on the PrusaOwners github and asking for support there. Also make sure you followed all the installation instructions for the plugin.
@@Zaf9670 I figured it out.
@@Lethalrosedose how you figured it out, i can not solve this problem. there is no image after a bed level check can you please tell me how :)
@@berkoak this was a long time ago but I think I just reinstalled the plugin.
Necesitamos una raspberry para poder conectar el pc a la prusa no? es decir no se puede hacer sin raspberry?
Marco A. Gonzalez no you do not have to use a raspberry pie, you can use in a Windows or MacOS or I think Linux computer
@@bengadget5095 y como conecto el pc a la prusa? Con el cable usb? Y luego abro octoprint en el pc?
si, eso es correcto
Is this the same for the mk3s?
Yes it is!
Is it me or are your nylock nuts on backwards? Wouldn't that mess up the threads on the screws and in turn mess up the threads on the Y carriage? If you look at the Github page, the nuts are threaded onto the screws "properly" so the flat side of the nut is facing/against the bottom of the bed. Like this raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/PrusaOwners/prusaowners/images/Bed_levelling.jpg
I put them on backwards as I thought that they would give less resistance while adjusting and less heat transfer.
BenGadget ok if it works👍. I tried it with a spare screw and nylock and I saw that it basically rethreaded the screw. I wasn’t about to screw it into the Y carriage. Then found the github link and see they show it differently.
@@NoFlyDrone Interesting, I didn't have any screws that were messed up, but that is a good point of the threads not lining up correctly.
@@bengadget5095 Yeah maybe your nylock nuts are a little different but on mine the metal threading on the nut is in the direction as if you were using it in normal orientation so it kind of screws up the threading if you force it backwards. I did it the way shown on the Github and it's working out OK. Just fine tuning now. Thanks for the video though, it helped visualize the steps!
@@NoFlyDrone A trick would be to pre thread the nuts. Run them once the normal way to get the nylon to thread then reverse it. Should help avoid mauling the threads.
2:34 He's using a much larger driver (7 ¾) than I am.
hello Ben i have a daubt, can i send a mail with a screenshot?
GUIDO REZZA Sure send it to ben@bengadget.com
The concept of adjusting by adjusting screw and locking nut is not new. The true variant that makes a rigid spaced riser and ajustable is by having two nuts To lock the screw on each reference plane (bed and frame). It goes like Screw-bed-nut1-nut2-frame. The nut1 butts against underside of bed, and nut 2 butts on top of frame. Ideally insert some washers too (between nut and bed and between nut2 and frame) but must very thin, space is at premium.
Then you must be able to tighen those nuts with bed in place (a thin open end wrench from the side).
The procedure is the same as you tighten nuts1 loosley on the bed (so it can turn the screw on the bed) and fist butt up the nut2 to lock nut1 so it does not move while adjusting. Adjust as presented in video and then:
1 Hold the screw head from top.
2. Loosen nut 2 from nut1
3. Tighten the nut 1 against bed
4. Tighten nut 2 against frame
Re-check (doing the final locking of nuts will certainly move by a very tiny amount from initial calibration as those gaps are closed and screw thread extended in the frame threads). Now the screw is the only one that changes the distange but it is locked in place. So for each minor readjustment you need to hold the head of the screw and loosen both nuts, and turn the screw accordingly, retighten and recheck. It is more fiddly in the last part to keep locking and unlocking nuts from the side but is the best method.
Even better is to use two nylocks on each screw insted of two normal nuts but nylocks are taller and there is not enough space available. Normal nuts are good enough as those nuts will be tight in the end and lock everything. So i'm not concerned about loosening.
The down side is that you need to have good access from the side and acces those nuts. I have a prusa mk3s and will do this in short time and i will use two normal nuts. From what I see there is enough space for a flat open end wrench for those nuts to be tighten from the side and enough space for two nuts . The middle is the reference fixed. with original spacer so no need to worry about it.
So the Prusa original spacer is about 5.5mm tall. Let's say 5mm. A normal m3 nut is 2.35mm (2.31, 2.32, top reading 2.35). A nylock m3 is 3.95mm. I'd say two normal nuts is the best approach and have enough space to fit and leave about 0.7mm worth of adusting. If or some reason the two nuts actually don't fit you can put a washers on the the center stand this gains aditional space for all perimeter screws. I might add a washer to center stand to gain enough clearance for all screws to add at least a washer against the underside of the bed. (it's not nice to twist and lock against delicate pcb coat underneath). Also take creat care with the side wrenching! if you are not careful you may marr the underside of the bed while manipulating the wrench! Take great care not to scrape the wrench against the underside of bed while mainipulating the nuts!
Also do not tighten those nuts too much to avoid striping the screw! A side wrench with normal open end wrench gives you so much leverage that you must tighten with one finger. M3 is delicate and can strip with a normal screwdriver grip, an allen key gives about double leverage when long part is the handle, and an open end nut wrench is about double or triple the lenght so a lot more leverage quadruple leverage ! so DO NOT FIST GRAB the delicate m3 nut with the wrench.
Anyway. The concept of adjusting screw and locking nut to lock the position of the screw is veavily used in any adjustable mechanical system like valve thermal clearance on a car engine, or the distance between brake shoes and drum for parking brake (to spin in normal mode and to bite a bit when hand brake is applied about 2-3 tooth and have enough stroke left to fully actuate, and when release to fully realease the shoe.. it's a screw and an nut on it that space out the cam and brake shoe). The key difference is that screw and nut are solidly locked and nut is tight. and not left loose so you can turn the screw. If you need such action then two axial thrust bearings would be the corect choice but is literaly no space for that in this aplication.
While the extra nuts are indeed a better option, there just isn’t the space under the bed for this. It’s easier and still functions great just to do the single lock nut against the bed.
19 minute tutorial and not 10 seconds about why this is needed.
This tutorial is for people who want to install the mod but do not want to follow the written instructions. It's up to you whether or not you want to. I'm not trying to sway anybody one way or the other.
Now heat your bed and do it again :(
Editing video really isn't that hard guys. If you can figure out how to hack a 3d printer, running Davinci Resolve (Free) should be a piece of cake. In short, there is no reason these videos need to be 19 minutes, its painful.
Or at the very least, some bookmarks, please. Thank you for sharing, really dont mean to seem ungrateful.
Nice video. But dont buy this printer i have it for one year .
Could you provide more information on why someone shouldn't buy it? This seems to be a highly recommended printer from multiple people and sources. What would you recommend instead?
@@krizzo I have two of these MK3s and I don't think it can be beat for the money, I am excited for the new PRUSA XL (core XY printer)
Any reason to not buy it? What kind of reasons do you have? I have two and love both of them (I have 3 others that I don't at all, lol)
I just got my MK3s and I agree with Ben. There are cheaper printers out there, and I have one, the Monoprice Maker Select V2 but they do not hold a candle to the Prusa. for the sub 1K printers, you can not beat it.
Pablo ... pablo argues that you don't have to buy this printer? I think it is the best for this price, so if you do not give the reasons your comment is worth less than zero hello and avoid shooting bullshit
Your bed is so dirty. I hope you don't put your hand on it and than you clean it. Because it's maybe the reason of your problems of bed.
Thank you for the video!