Hello there, my friend. I'm also glad you found my channel. Welcome aboard. It's been a long slog, we're up to 135 videos, but this is a detail channel. I go into the minute nitty-gritty of things, so hopefully you'll not get bored too quickly. Regards, John
John, I am so happy you are now restoring a car. So far I have watched every one of your videos since you restored my grandfather’s Philco 37-2670 (hope I got the model right). I couldn’t get into the jukebox thing. It was too complicated for my feeble brain. Also, the pinball machine is too complicated for my taste, too many wires, relays, etc. Your Mish Mash videos are the most entertaining and also provide insight into your life, which is interesting and very real. I admire your outlook and the fact that you finish every project. OK, back to cars. I look forward to this restoration because I have loved cars ever since my older brother put me behind the wheel of our 1939 Mercury and I promptly backed it into a shed in our back yard. Also, I used to chauffer a friend and his girl around the dirt roads surrounding our home town in his dad’s 1940 Ford when I was about fourteen. My first car was a 1957 Chevrolet Bel Air two door hardtop, and after that I owned two 1957 Corvettes (a friend totaled the first one), a 1962 Volvo PV 544, a couple of Olds 88’s, one of the first Lexus LS400’s, etc. I am currently driving a Honda Accord and love it. BTW, I have changed my You Tube moniker since I turned 83. Old for really old and Troller since I troll the Internet incessantly. I love your new old car. Do it justice. Martin
Hellloooooo, Martin, my friend. How the heck have you been? I don't know anyone who's driven a 1939 Merc and a 1940 Ford...except for you, of course. My son owns a '57 Chevy 2DHT. He drove it all through high school. I bought it back in 1972 while in college for $350.00 and gave it to him the day he turned 16-years old. He keeps it in storage and plans to someday get her back on the road. The Olds 88s were also very cool cars. I took my drivers test in a 1959 Olds. It was like driving a fancy, soft riding tank. BTW...I wondered who Old Troller was and was pleasantly surprised to find out it was you. Neat YT handle. Hopefully, I'll get back to the T-Bird project this weekend for at least a little while. Lots more cleaning to do. I want to get it in the garage before the Arkansas heat hits. Once that happens it'll be all she wrote. Martin, it was very good to hear from you again. Stop being so scarce, ya hear? LOL Regards, John
Randy, Thanks, my friend. We'll be getting back to work on it as soon as the temperatures go down. Working in 107 degree heat indexes isn't quite my cup of tea. But it won't be too long. Regards, John
That is the most restorable TB I have ever seen. Here in Wisconsin if they haven't been stored in a barn for years they are usually very rusted out. That floorboard rust is so typical. I have had blowouts with old tires that seemingly looked very good. I had an old Ford F-250 super camper that had tires that looked real good. One of them blew out on me when I was driving on the freeway. Another blew out out on the country roads. I would love to have a vintage car project but my retirement money is spread so thin I can barely keep up with the few electronic restore projects I have. That car was a wonderful find for you.
I saved my nickels and dimes for the day a classic car I liked would possibly float my way. What a shocker to find it just down the road. It was an even bigger shocker that others had so easily passed on it. Regards, John
Looks like you found a pretty nice old bird. My Dad has one the same year painted a copper metallic color. I always loved to drive it. It's pretty neat how the steering wheel shifts to the right to make it easier to get in and out of the car. I was always fascinated with those rear sequential turn signals too. Back when cars had style.
That is one sweet bird ! Won't often see one that rust free up here unless it has been restored or a very expensive original survivor car ! You did great with this find, should be a lot of fun for you esp. when you and the family go for that first ride ! D. in Mi.
You found a really good one there John. That thing is really clean and yeah, the floor boards are a " can do eagy " deal. It will be one heck of a cruiser.
John, I was told to dump it right down the carb and fill the engine. If there is any rust on the bearings and valves and such it would take it off. I most likely will have the carb done before I try and start it. I just got the car in OCTOBER and hauled it home. I have no garage . I do have tons of angle iron and am going too 0build a massive set of ramps the I can drive the whole car up on. Same as the ones at the car dealerships. Lots of sandblasting and cleaning to do. The lower fender bottoms and dog legs and lower rear quarters have to be rebuilt. The trunk pan may have to be replaced . I am still missing a few pieces that are still at my brothers place somewhere like the front chrome bumper guards and one of the chrome trims like you showed that go under the headlights. I am missing the chrome pieces the go behind the front bumper on the corner of the fenders. I think I have the piece that fills in the middle under the grill. I have two front bumpers and there were two other smaller bumpers in the pile that I thought were off the T-BIRD but ended up being off his 1970 LINCOLN MARK 111. He had so much stuff and hidden everywhere. I have 3 or four sets of tail lights and DASH and front and rear seat off of a blue T-BIRD , drive shafts , 9 in ford off a LINCOLN. Extra rear end centre section. If you could pop up a photo of the chrome that goes behind the front bumper I would appreciate it. It will let me know what I am looking for . I Can't find the corner front signal lights yet either. It's a battle for sure. My brother even has a electric hydraulic hoist that he got from a local WAL-MART sitting on the floor under the LINCOLN. He paid $300.00 For that. So much stuff he collected in his life time.
THANKS for your speedy reply JOHN. I am not sure why my brother had these calipers in his basement but one pair takes 4 pistons and these calipers break in half with two huge bolts bolting them together. Before he died all he said was there was rebuilt calipers in his basement. They were not put together and the pistons got thrown away by his wife. I guess I will have to do more searching. The battle continues, ha ha ha.
Michael, Click on each blue info icon and see if any of the calipers match what you have: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1966,thunderbird,6.4l+390cid+v8,1332997,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper,1704 Meanwhile, if you don't have a 1966 Thunderbird shop manual, then it would be the first thing to buy. In the long run it'll save you a lot of headaches...and money: www.ebay.com/itm/1966-Ford-Thunderbird-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual/140815118865?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D55991%26meid%3D980360e973444994bf230cc27f63db95%26pid%3D100008%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D223396664190%26itm%3D140815118865&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219 Regards, John
As long as the tire is off it's a good time to knock the dirt dauber nests out. That Edsel I had was undercoated as well. Wish they had done that to all cars. Good progress, John!
Hi John. One tip I would give would be to use Por15 on the floor boards inside and out. It's not cheap but it will last. Before you try to start the car clean the points and crank it for a bit to get the oil back into the bearings. Just disconnect the coil wire from the distributor and it won't start. I hope this helps Buddy .
It always helps, my friend. I'll for sure check out the Por15. Brendan and I have already worked out an engine restart plan. In fact, a day ago I picked up some Marvel Mystery Oil that was on sale, two bottles for $7.00. Also, removing the coil wire will be a no-brainer...it's been chewed through by a mouse. LOL Regards, Johnb
John, consider using DuPont 615S™ Self-Etching Primer, and its Converter, DuPont 616S. The self-etching feature provides a phosphoric acid/calcium salt etchant which stays bound to the base of the primer. Variprime provides not only the benefit of extremely good adhesion, it also neutralizes rust, and converts what remains into iron phosphate, which resists the reformation of oxides of iron (paint bubbles), which often returns (on non-etched ferrous metals + 'pot metal'. It provides the most rust protection available; DuPont pioneered the concept of self etching coatings.
Thanks for your channel! I have a 64 t-bird. You should have description on the titles on what your doing in the vids. Would love to see lots of basic ”how to” videos! Cheers from Sweden!
Oh my Goodness. 66 T-bird restore project video's... Awesome. Looking to grab a 69 at some point. Love this particular bird! Be watching all of the videos shortly.
Hello there. It's very good to hear from you. A 1969 T-Bird is a cool-looking car. I hope you find a decent one. But do try to make sure it's not a total rust bucket. Restoring a rust bucket really isn't worth the cost and effort unless it's some kind of ultra-rare jobbie. Just know when to walk away. Believe me, another 69 will soon come down the pike. Again, it's good to have you here. See you next time. Regards, John
I'm actually not in a hurry. More interested in getting something that is operable, needing more upkeep then replace/rebuild if I can manage. So taking a longtime and being patient is what I am working on and with. Thanks for these videos. Looking forward to plowing though a few more tonight.
I prefer the roofline on the ‘64/‘65 Birds but they are all great! I especially love the Dashboard and speedometer on those! IIRC the dash lights up a very cool green!
Have to get yourself some new weatherstrip/door gaskets ordered. Might want to have the front and rear windows resealed so nothing leaks. I'd bet you can probably find a rim for that from a junk/salvage yard somewhere, being a Ford it was probably the same rim used on a lot of models. I too was surprised this had disk brakes on the front. Going to be a nice cruiser John. You'll have to take us along for it's first drive.
I need some info on your brake calipers. They are four piston calipers right? I have the same car but not running it right now. It needs some work. I have single and 4 piston calipers but no pistons in them. Can i buy pistons or should I just buy new calipers. Did these cars ever have the single piston caliper up front?
Michael, Hello there, my friend. Thanks for dropping in. The 1965 and 1966 T-Birds had dual piston calipers. Rock Auto sells the pistons and rebuild kits. Make sure the piston barrels aren't scored all to bits. If so, I'd say just buy a set of rebuilt calipers. It won't be cheap, but when installed you'll have braking peace of mind. Know what I mean?: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=307078&cc=1332997&jsn=575&jsn=575 www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2046266&cc=1332997&jsn=571&jsn=571 Regards, John
Hi John, That is going to be a really nice car when you have finally completed it my friend. I just don’t envy you the cost of filling her up with gas!
Scott, A 64 Thunderbird? If so, good for you. Not many people still have their first car. Our son does. Keeps it in storage until he has enough time to really get in there and mess with it. About the disc brakes: Are you saying they're the same kind that was used on a 2-ton truck? Regards, John
@@joernone Hi John, I upgraded my front drum brakes to the 65~67 system your car has and the old fellow at the salvage yard where I got them from told me they were the same exact parts used on a 2 ton truck. So Ford didn't start from scratch, they just used something they already had. The only down side of them is there doesn't seem to be any high quality pads avail. They're all cheap, $20 pads. FWIW, the 64 Mustang had a disc brake option and it used these Kelsy Hayes brakes as well except they are 1/2" shorter in length. Of course for the Mustang there are all kinds of high quality pads available. Scott
@@joernone thank you for your response John. actually I was referring to the exterior molding where the roof meets the quarter panel. I am trying to prepare the car to put a new vinyl roof on. The guy who had the car before me cut the vinyl roof off but never took the molding off and I have to get it off to take out the rest of the vinyl and install the new roof. Thank you Tom
Your trunk stayed better than mine but my passenger floor is not bad and the drivers floor had a patch put in but I may replace it so it will look factory. My trunk lid has a bad spot in the underneath framing. My car needs a major cleaning on the bottom. The rear end and spring perches should be removed and cleaned like you did. Instead of replacing the complete springs I might get away with putting a new main ply in. You are right by saying these cars are heavy. Everything in these cars is heavy, even the overhead console is heavy. My car is the 428 option, green with a white painted roof. Car has not been started in 20 years but is not seized. I just put a couple gallons of diesel fuel in the motor. We are in a deep freeze here in eastern CANADA. Car is outside in the snow. Car sat behind my brothers house for 5 years then in his new garage for 15 years.
Michael, When you get the chance why not post a vid of it? Folks like seeing old classics no matter what the condition. BTW...where in the engine did you put 2 gallons of diesel fuel? Regards, John
Hi John!!! How goes the T-BIRD. The lower quarter are bad on my car and i figures this ford would be like all the GM cars where the inside lower quarters have sheet metal that attaches to the lower quarter vertical up To the trunk. People call them the trunk drop offs. I would rather buy them than trying to reproduce them home.
Michael, The '66 T-Bird is unibody construction...all one piece with no steel frame. Any badly rusted sheet metal will need to be cut out and new metal welded in. It's all part of the fun, my friend. Regards, John
A Car Refurbishing? Now you're talking John, I'm betting that if the radio in this old bird needs help then you know just the guy that can fix it, lol I can give you one invaluable tip that I learned from a mechanic friend many years ago and have used it every time since then. Any bolted on rusty part, I don't care where it is or what it is, Soak that part with the rust busting solvent of your choice (I use WD-40) and be patient and let it do it's job, About 24 hours, And that bolt or screw will come out slicker than butter I promise you. Try this one time and you will be a believer. A couple sprays throughout the first day is best and do the removal job the following day. People make the mistake of thinking a few minutes to an hour is sufficient and they are wrong. I once changed all the shocks on my Olds in a record time of an hour and 30 minutes with no broken bolts or body screws at all because I followed this tip. Try this on that rusty brake bleeder screw and you'll see what I mean, You'll be happy you did
John is that a 352 engine? Do you plan to fire up the engine first, or are you verifying the brakes hold pressure befor you start that? Either way this is going to be a fun summer series. I'll be watching out in the garage with the old Studebaker.
Very cool how its coming out. I wonder i the new engine was designed to run on Unleaded gas ? Not sure if there is a conversion needed for that... either way, you will nail it. You need to put a tube radio in the dash !
I've heard that for a car that takes leaded gas you can adjust the valves to compensate for it running on unleaded....or you can just pour in a bottle of Instead-O-Lead every time you fill the gas tank.
That would be an interesting option I am pretty sure if FM was an option FM stereo was not. It would even better option if they did something weird like Plymouth did, AM only radio with 8 track.
If the car does have an AM radio I'd look for an aftermarket FM converter to mount under the dash which would still be appropriate for the time. I mounted one in a '68 Buick Special I used to have. Found the converter at a yard sale for a dollar, lol.
John, I don't plan on getting rid of them. I want this refurbishment to remain as low-cost as possible...although a nice set of wire wheels would look good. LOL Regards, John
All classic car light sockets (and sheet metal) easily corrode over time. I grew up with those cars and know first-hand what can and will happen. Regards, John
wow, so glad I found this channel, this ought to help a lot as I restore my T-bird, thank you so much for taking the time to share
Hello there, my friend. I'm also glad you found my channel. Welcome aboard. It's been a long slog, we're up to 135 videos, but this is a detail channel. I go into the minute nitty-gritty of things, so hopefully you'll not get bored too quickly.
Regards,
John
John, I am so happy you are now restoring a car. So far I
have watched every one of your videos since you restored my grandfather’s
Philco 37-2670 (hope I got the model right). I couldn’t get into the jukebox
thing. It was too complicated for my feeble brain. Also, the pinball machine is
too complicated for my taste, too many wires, relays, etc. Your Mish Mash
videos are the most entertaining and also provide insight into your life, which
is interesting and very real. I admire your outlook and the fact that you
finish every project. OK, back to cars. I look forward to this restoration
because I have loved cars ever since my older brother put me behind the wheel
of our 1939 Mercury and I promptly backed it into a shed in our back yard.
Also, I used to chauffer a friend and his girl around the dirt roads surrounding our
home town in his dad’s 1940 Ford when I was about fourteen. My first car was a
1957 Chevrolet Bel Air two door hardtop, and after that I owned two 1957
Corvettes (a friend totaled the first one), a 1962 Volvo PV 544, a couple of
Olds 88’s, one of the first Lexus LS400’s, etc. I am currently driving a Honda
Accord and love it. BTW, I have changed my You Tube moniker since I turned 83.
Old for really old and Troller since I troll the Internet incessantly. I love
your new old car. Do it justice.
Martin
Hellloooooo, Martin, my friend. How the heck have you been?
I don't know anyone who's driven a 1939 Merc and a 1940 Ford...except for you, of course. My son owns a '57 Chevy 2DHT. He drove it all through high school. I bought it back in 1972 while in college for $350.00 and gave it to him the day he turned 16-years old. He keeps it in storage and plans to someday get her back on the road. The Olds 88s were also very cool cars. I took my drivers test in a 1959 Olds. It was like driving a fancy, soft riding tank.
BTW...I wondered who Old Troller was and was pleasantly surprised to find out it was you. Neat YT handle.
Hopefully, I'll get back to the T-Bird project this weekend for at least a little while. Lots more cleaning to do. I want to get it in the garage before the Arkansas heat hits. Once that happens it'll be all she wrote.
Martin, it was very good to hear from you again. Stop being so scarce, ya hear? LOL
Regards,
John
Enjoy your videos on the T-bird.
Have seen them all. Keep up the great job you are doing.
Randy,
Thanks, my friend. We'll be getting back to work on it as soon as the temperatures go down. Working in 107 degree heat indexes isn't quite my cup of tea. But it won't be too long.
Regards,
John
That is the most restorable TB I have ever seen. Here in Wisconsin if they haven't been stored in a barn for years they are usually very rusted out. That floorboard rust is so typical. I have had blowouts with old tires that seemingly looked very good. I had an old Ford F-250 super camper that had tires that looked real good. One of them blew out on me when I was driving on the freeway. Another blew out out on the country roads. I would love to have a vintage car project but my retirement money is spread so thin I can barely keep up with the few electronic restore projects I have. That car was a wonderful find for you.
I saved my nickels and dimes for the day a classic car I liked would possibly float my way. What a shocker to find it just down the road. It was an even bigger shocker that others had so easily passed on it.
Regards,
John
Looks like you found a pretty nice old bird. My Dad has one the same year painted a copper metallic color. I always loved to drive it. It's pretty neat how the steering wheel shifts to the right to make it easier to get in and out of the car. I was always fascinated with those rear sequential turn signals too. Back when cars had style.
Yess!!! I like it. Your the only guy I watch that don't work on cars. My dreams came true :-) Greatings from Norway
Ingvar,
Thanks, my friend. I like positive people. It's very good to hear from you.
Regards,
John
That is one sweet bird ! Won't often see one that rust free up here unless it has been restored or a very expensive original survivor car ! You did great with this find, should be a lot of fun for you esp. when you and the family go for that first ride ! D. in Mi.
You found a really good one there John. That thing is really clean and yeah, the floor boards are a " can do eagy " deal. It will be one heck of a cruiser.
Carl,
I can't tell you how much I've wanted a 1966 T-Bird...but in cruiser terms a 1962 Olds Starfire would have been even cooler. LOL
Regards,
John
Wow, what a great project car! Same year as my old Volkswagen. I just got that in the garage to start working on this year.
John, I was told to dump it right down the carb and fill the engine. If there is any rust on the bearings and valves and such it would take it off. I most likely will have the carb done before I try and start it. I just got the car in OCTOBER and hauled it home. I have no garage . I do have tons of angle iron and am going too 0build a massive set of ramps the I can drive the whole car up on. Same as the ones at the car dealerships. Lots of sandblasting and cleaning to do. The lower fender bottoms and dog legs and lower rear quarters have to be rebuilt. The trunk pan may have to be replaced . I am still missing a few pieces that are still at my brothers place somewhere like the front chrome bumper guards and one of the chrome trims like you showed that go under the headlights. I am missing the chrome pieces the go behind the front bumper on the corner of the fenders. I think I have the piece that fills in the middle under the grill. I have two front bumpers and there were two other smaller bumpers in the pile that I thought were off the T-BIRD but ended up being off his 1970 LINCOLN MARK 111. He had so much stuff and hidden everywhere. I have 3 or four sets of tail lights and DASH and front and rear seat off of a blue T-BIRD , drive shafts , 9 in ford off a LINCOLN. Extra rear end centre section. If you could pop up a photo of the chrome that goes behind the front bumper I would appreciate it. It will let me know what I am looking for . I Can't find the corner front signal lights yet either. It's a battle for sure. My brother even has a electric hydraulic hoist that he got from a local WAL-MART sitting on the floor under the LINCOLN. He paid $300.00 For that. So much stuff he collected in his life time.
Looking forward to seeing this project. The car looks in fairly good shape.
Pete,
She's in very good shape for the shape she's in. LOL
Regards,
John
THANKS for your speedy reply JOHN. I am not sure why my brother had these calipers in his basement but one pair takes 4 pistons and these calipers break in half with two huge bolts bolting them together. Before he died all he said was there was rebuilt calipers in his basement. They were not put together and the pistons got thrown away by his wife. I guess I will have to do more searching. The battle continues, ha ha ha.
Michael,
Click on each blue info icon and see if any of the calipers match what you have:
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1966,thunderbird,6.4l+390cid+v8,1332997,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper,1704
Meanwhile, if you don't have a 1966 Thunderbird shop manual, then it would be the first thing to buy. In the long run it'll save you a lot of headaches...and money:
www.ebay.com/itm/1966-Ford-Thunderbird-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual/140815118865?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D55991%26meid%3D980360e973444994bf230cc27f63db95%26pid%3D100008%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D223396664190%26itm%3D140815118865&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219
Regards,
John
As long as the tire is off it's a good time to knock the dirt dauber nests out. That Edsel I had was undercoated as well. Wish they had done that to all cars. Good progress, John!
I've since found that all 1966 T-Birds were undercoated...maybe the 1964 and 1965 models as well.
Regards,
John
Hi John. One tip I would give would be to use Por15 on the floor boards inside and out. It's not cheap but it will last. Before you try to start the car clean the points and crank it for a bit to get the oil back into the bearings. Just disconnect the coil wire from the distributor and it won't start. I hope this helps Buddy .
It always helps, my friend. I'll for sure check out the Por15. Brendan and I have already worked out an engine restart plan. In fact, a day ago I picked up some Marvel Mystery Oil that was on sale, two bottles for $7.00. Also, removing the coil wire will be a no-brainer...it's been chewed through by a mouse. LOL
Regards,
Johnb
John, consider using DuPont 615S™ Self-Etching Primer, and its Converter, DuPont 616S. The self-etching feature provides a phosphoric acid/calcium salt etchant which stays bound to the base of the primer. Variprime provides not only the benefit of extremely good adhesion, it also neutralizes rust, and converts what remains into iron phosphate, which resists the reformation of oxides of iron (paint bubbles), which often returns (on non-etched ferrous metals + 'pot metal'.
It provides the most rust protection available; DuPont pioneered the concept of self etching coatings.
Looks really good! Looking forward to more videos like this!
Thanks, my friend. They'll be coming along shortly.
Regards,
John
Thanks for your channel! I have a 64 t-bird. You should have description on the titles on what your doing in the vids. Would love to see lots of basic ”how to” videos! Cheers from Sweden!
She'a a real beauty, and that Wimbeldon White is the perfect color. I have a 1970 Cougar convertible I call "Old Betsy!"
Park,
It's just something for me to while away my golden years. LOL
Regards,
John
Oh my Goodness. 66 T-bird restore project video's... Awesome. Looking to grab a 69 at some point. Love this particular bird! Be watching all of the videos shortly.
P.S. auto liking all video's.
Hello there. It's very good to hear from you.
A 1969 T-Bird is a cool-looking car. I hope you find a decent one. But do try to make sure it's not a total rust bucket. Restoring a rust bucket really isn't worth the cost and effort unless it's some kind of ultra-rare jobbie. Just know when to walk away. Believe me, another 69 will soon come down the pike.
Again, it's good to have you here. See you next time.
Regards,
John
I'm actually not in a hurry. More interested in getting something that is operable, needing more upkeep then replace/rebuild if I can manage. So taking a longtime and being patient is what I am working on and with. Thanks for these videos. Looking forward to plowing though a few more tonight.
I prefer the roofline on the ‘64/‘65 Birds but they are all great! I especially love the Dashboard and speedometer on those! IIRC the dash lights up a very cool green!
Thanks for your reply.
Take it easy. Sending you and your wife all the best. I will be looking for your update on TH-cam.
Have to get yourself some new weatherstrip/door gaskets ordered. Might want to have the front and rear windows resealed so nothing leaks. I'd bet you can probably find a rim for that from a junk/salvage yard somewhere, being a Ford it was probably the same rim used on a lot of models. I too was surprised this had disk brakes on the front. Going to be a nice cruiser John. You'll have to take us along for it's first drive.
All SOP, my friend.
Regards,
John
65 up disc brakes.....the steel wheels are specific for the T Bird to clear those huge calipers.....the rear doesn't matter
I got a pile of them T-BIRD manuals on the floor in the living room. Never thought to look at them yet. I'm not too SWIFT ,ha ha ha.
Can the trunk drop offs be bought? The piece that attaches the lower quarter to the trunk.
Michael,
Do you mean the flat, vertical sheet metal inside the trunk on both sides?
Regards,
John
I need some info on your brake calipers. They are four piston calipers right? I have the same car but not running it right now. It needs some work. I have single and 4 piston calipers but no pistons in them. Can i buy pistons or should I just buy new calipers. Did these cars ever have the single piston caliper up front?
Michael,
Hello there, my friend. Thanks for dropping in.
The 1965 and 1966 T-Birds had dual piston calipers. Rock Auto sells the pistons and rebuild kits. Make sure the piston barrels aren't scored all to bits. If so, I'd say just buy a set of rebuilt calipers. It won't be cheap, but when installed you'll have braking peace of mind. Know what I mean?:
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=307078&cc=1332997&jsn=575&jsn=575
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2046266&cc=1332997&jsn=571&jsn=571
Regards,
John
Hi John,
That is going to be a really nice car when you have finally completed it my friend. I just don’t envy you the cost of filling her up with gas!
Gordon,
I'll probably fill her up twice per year. LOL
Regards,
John
My first car was a 64 and I've still got it after 41 years.
BTW, your disc brakes are Kelsey Hayes parts originally from a 2 ton truck!
Scott,
A 64 Thunderbird? If so, good for you. Not many people still have their first car. Our son does. Keeps it in storage until he has enough time to really get in there and mess with it. About the disc brakes: Are you saying they're the same kind that was used on a 2-ton truck?
Regards,
John
@@joernone Hi John, I upgraded my front drum brakes to the 65~67 system your car has and the old fellow at the salvage yard where I got them from told me they were the same exact parts used on a 2 ton truck. So Ford didn't start from scratch, they just used something they already had. The only down side of them is there doesn't seem to be any high quality pads avail. They're all cheap, $20 pads.
FWIW, the 64 Mustang had a disc brake option and it used these Kelsy Hayes brakes as well except they are 1/2" shorter in length. Of course for the Mustang there are all kinds of high quality pads available.
Scott
This is going to be a really nice driver!!!
I sure hope so, my friend...as long as it's safe to drive. We don't anyone else on the road to get hurt.
Regards,
John
In the day those 4piston Kelsey's really stopped well but they are trouble when old & stuck.
Ps never turn ac on below freezing ruins the drier and won't unscrew without major problems.😁
I am new to these great videos. can someone please tell me which video may address removal of roof molding?
Thomas,
If you mean inside molding just remove the screws.
Regards,
John
@@joernone thank you for your response John. actually I was referring to the exterior molding where the roof meets the quarter panel. I am trying to prepare the car to put a new vinyl roof on. The guy who had the car before me cut the vinyl roof off but never took the molding off and I have to get it off to take out the rest of the vinyl and install the new roof.
Thank you
Tom
Tom,
Here's how it's done, my friend:
th-cam.com/video/doEhMQctVmo/w-d-xo.html
Regards,
John
Your trunk stayed better than mine but my passenger floor is not bad and the drivers floor had a patch put in but I may replace it so it will look factory. My trunk lid has a bad spot in the underneath framing. My car needs a major cleaning on the bottom. The rear end and spring perches should be removed and cleaned like you did. Instead of replacing the complete springs I might get away with putting a new main ply in. You are right by saying these cars are heavy. Everything in these cars is heavy, even the overhead console is heavy. My car is the 428 option, green with a white painted roof. Car has not been started in 20 years but is not seized. I just put a couple gallons of diesel fuel in the motor. We are in a deep freeze here in eastern CANADA. Car is outside in the snow. Car sat behind my brothers house for 5 years then in his new garage for 15 years.
Michael,
When you get the chance why not post a vid of it? Folks like seeing old classics no matter what the condition. BTW...where in the engine did you put 2 gallons of diesel fuel?
Regards,
John
Hi John!!! How goes the T-BIRD. The lower quarter are bad on my car and i figures this ford would be like all the GM cars where the inside lower quarters have sheet metal that attaches to the lower quarter vertical up To the trunk. People call them the trunk drop offs. I would rather buy them than trying to reproduce them home.
Michael,
The '66 T-Bird is unibody construction...all one piece with no steel frame. Any badly rusted sheet metal will need to be cut out and new metal welded in. It's all part of the fun, my friend.
Regards,
John
A Car Refurbishing?
Now you're talking John, I'm betting that if the radio in this old bird needs help then you know just the guy that can fix it, lol
I can give you one invaluable tip that I learned from a mechanic friend many years ago and have used it every time since then.
Any bolted on rusty part, I don't care where it is or what it is, Soak that part with the rust busting solvent of your choice (I use WD-40) and be patient and let it do it's job, About 24 hours, And that bolt or screw will come out slicker than butter I promise you. Try this one time and you will be a believer.
A couple sprays throughout the first day is best and do the removal job the following day.
People make the mistake of thinking a few minutes to an hour is sufficient and they are wrong. I once changed all the shocks on my Olds in a record time of an hour and 30 minutes with no broken bolts or body screws at all because I followed this tip.
Try this on that rusty brake bleeder screw and you'll see what I mean, You'll be happy you did
John is that a 352 engine? Do you plan to fire up the engine first, or are you verifying the brakes hold pressure befor you start that? Either way this is going to be a fun summer series. I'll be watching out in the garage with the old Studebaker.
Go here and pick up the video at time 21:32
th-cam.com/video/nRAh-TF-2AQ/w-d-xo.html
Regards,
John
THANKS JOHN, the calipers I have look like the first set in the ad ( A-1 - cardone-184403) $ 87.00 .
Very cool how its coming out. I wonder i the new engine was designed to run on Unleaded gas ? Not sure if there is a conversion needed for that... either way, you will nail it. You need to put a tube radio in the dash !
I've heard that for a car that takes leaded gas you can adjust the valves to compensate for it running on unleaded....or you can just pour in a bottle of Instead-O-Lead every time you fill the gas tank.
That would be an interesting option I am pretty sure if FM was an option FM stereo was not. It would even better option if they did something weird like Plymouth did, AM only radio with 8 track.
If the car does have an AM radio I'd look for an aftermarket FM converter to mount under the dash which would still be appropriate for the time. I mounted one in a '68 Buick Special I used to have. Found the converter at a yard sale for a dollar, lol.
Keep those steel wheels they are specifically made to clear the front calipers.
John,
I don't plan on getting rid of them. I want this refurbishment to remain as low-cost as possible...although a nice set of wire wheels would look good. LOL
Regards,
John
joernone ....if you do change the wheels you would have to use spacers.....there are nice wire caps out there
It's a money pit. But enjoyable as a retired mechanic I'll stick to my radios!
Joe,
It's only a money pit if I let it become so. Not going to happen, my friend. It's called self-discipline.
Regards,
John
I have to disagree Sir. These older cars are tough and when you take care of them they take care of you. Beside the fact they need to be saved.
Bobby Tectalabyss .no disrespect to John but after fifty plus years work on them the enjoyment has worn off for me. To each their own. Sincerely Joe.
Man this looks like a money pit. A whole lot of rust. Still love the car...
gas tank behind back seat, reminds me of my old Galaxy.
Don,
Correction, my friend...vertical tank. LOL
Regards,
John
John, looks like you're busier now that you're retired!
Crist,
Not really, my friend. I've learned to intelligently allocate my time.
Regards,
John
I wonder what Buzz is going to restore.....????? Hmmmmm?????
That's not really undercoating, it's sound deadener that was applied to all T-Birds on the assembly line
Watch the light sockets and wiring.... fords are good for them corroding ...
All classic car light sockets (and sheet metal) easily corrode over time. I grew up with those cars and know first-hand what can and will happen.
Regards,
John
Just remove and replace those grease zerks on the ft. calipers, you can always clean the threads up with a tap if needed.
Sam,
Do tell. LOL
Regards,
John
Great car! Check out he Thunderbird I’ve been restoring on my channel
No, dry rot is not good. You are not a kid.