Hah, very fair. I was thinking shooting in a hard to exposure environment would be a good for this one but then the whole no one monitoring as the sun rapidly shifted caught up with me rather harshly... thanks for watching.
Thank you! you explained cleary and simply some complicated subjects. and it looks like u know what you are saying. it's hard to find on youtube. i subscribed 10 seconds into the video! 👌
Finally. You are the first of many who actually in clear, clean and well constructed manner where able to explain and deliver how this actually works. Thank you!
Red actually says to raise the ISO to 1600 or higher in daylight / bright scenes because it gives you a better image from shifting dynamic rage to the middle / highlights. They use examples and show how the affects the raw image. You of course have to adjust ND or f-srop ass needed. I think few people really shoot this way but it makes sense once you see the test footage.
Bro thanks for sharing. I am using the Epic Red Dragon and the color on it is amazing. I just added internal ND and a Global Shutter with the Motion Mount. Powerful
Thanks for the video, very informative. I’m gonna share some of my thoughts as I just got the Komodo and watched hours of these traffic light tutorials I don’t understand why everyone keeps making the claim that iso doesn’t matter then they say it matters for highlight/shadow protection. Many sources say that the footage actually directly benefits from the practice that you described (shifting the middle gray point, higher iso when more light and so on). I understood you that it’s more of an exposure adjustment dial for monitoring purposes than something that affects the image directly. And the example with lower iso for moody scenes with less light makes a lot of sense to me, I can see how I would want to have darker look but still expose kind of to the right if possible. But the example with shooting higher iso in bright exterior scenes is strange - I’m either gonna look at annoyingly bright monitor that doesn’t reflect how I want my footage to look, or I will up the iso and then compensate so much with NDs and/or iris that shadows will get noisy. Feels like it’s better to stay at 800/500 and just watch traffic lights, unless there’s actually some benefit for the footage when raising iso
I think the idea of raw is that you can adjust white balance after the fact. I try to get it somewhat close when shooting but have always found the R3D extremely forgiving with color adjustment. Definitely very important to get color balance right in the grade though!
hello, could you please make a new video and talk more on a real life exposure scenarios like this you are sitting by your bed ? what exactly setting you have and what do you use for setting exposure? false colors or GIO Scope?
Totally, my point was that with cameras that have gain, people crank it as a way of making the image feel brighter but it's not a substitute for light on a sensor...
great video ! but ISO has never changed the amount of light hitting the sensor, it's a digital boost of the signal after the sensor, so it's working like every other camera, it's just that in raw ISO are closer to Exposure Index than true ISO on other camera because you're aways recording your native iso and have the choice to modify it in post !
Thanks, you're totally right. Yeah, the way I said that part isn't particularly articulate. My main goal was to try to talk about the affects of approach to exposure on the image and that there is a difference between gain based cameras & raw ones.
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Love when tutorial about exposure starts with clipping on face😅
Hah, very fair. I was thinking shooting in a hard to exposure environment would be a good for this one but then the whole no one monitoring as the sun rapidly shifted caught up with me rather harshly... thanks for watching.
💀
Thank you! you explained cleary and simply some complicated subjects. and it looks like u know what you are saying. it's hard to find on youtube. i subscribed 10 seconds into the video! 👌
Thanks, glad it was helpful
Finally. You are the first of many who actually in clear, clean and well constructed manner where able to explain and deliver how this actually works.
Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
You should show what settings you change on the camera for each given scenario
Red actually says to raise the ISO to 1600 or higher in daylight / bright scenes because it gives you a better image from shifting dynamic rage to the middle / highlights. They use examples and show how the affects the raw image. You of course have to adjust ND or f-srop ass needed. I think few people really shoot this way but it makes sense once you see the test footage.
Love it. Thanks, Sam! 🎥
Hey Sam, amazing content as usual!
Appreciate it!
Bro thanks for sharing. I am using the Epic Red Dragon and the color on it is amazing. I just added internal ND and a Global Shutter with the Motion Mount. Powerful
Thanks for watching. Wow I’ve not heard of the motion mount before
Thanks for the video, very informative. I’m gonna share some of my thoughts as I just got the Komodo and watched hours of these traffic light tutorials
I don’t understand why everyone keeps making the claim that iso doesn’t matter then they say it matters for highlight/shadow protection. Many sources say that the footage actually directly benefits from the practice that you described (shifting the middle gray point, higher iso when more light and so on). I understood you that it’s more of an exposure adjustment dial for monitoring purposes than something that affects the image directly.
And the example with lower iso for moody scenes with less light makes a lot of sense to me, I can see how I would want to have darker look but still expose kind of to the right if possible. But the example with shooting higher iso in bright exterior scenes is strange - I’m either gonna look at annoyingly bright monitor that doesn’t reflect how I want my footage to look, or I will up the iso and then compensate so much with NDs and/or iris that shadows will get noisy. Feels like it’s better to stay at 800/500 and just watch traffic lights, unless there’s actually some benefit for the footage when raising iso
Great video dude!!
Thanks! Really appreciate it
tomorrow hes going to wake up with sore muscles and tension in his left shoulder becouse bro doesent want to put his arm down
Thank you so much how important is white balance on a red camera is that also a lut based idea do you need to adjust your white balance ?
I think the idea of raw is that you can adjust white balance after the fact. I try to get it somewhat close when shooting but have always found the R3D extremely forgiving with color adjustment. Definitely very important to get color balance right in the grade though!
hello, could you please make a new video and talk more on a real life exposure scenarios like this you are sitting by your bed ? what exactly setting you have and what do you use for setting exposure? false colors or GIO Scope?
No iso affects how much light hits your sensor
Totally, my point was that with cameras that have gain, people crank it as a way of making the image feel brighter but it's not a substitute for light on a sensor...
@@samdotroden yeah its just a semantic issue where you phrase it early in a way that could confuse people. Its a great video though👌
@@JohnFultonCGL makes sense, appreciate the feedback and thanks for watching!
I would start and exposure video without overexposing your face 😅
great video ! but ISO has never changed the amount of light hitting the sensor, it's a digital boost of the signal after the sensor, so it's working like every other camera, it's just that in raw ISO are closer to Exposure Index than true ISO on other camera because you're aways recording your native iso and have the choice to modify it in post !
Thanks, you're totally right. Yeah, the way I said that part isn't particularly articulate. My main goal was to try to talk about the affects of approach to exposure on the image and that there is a difference between gain based cameras & raw ones.