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FiTech Starting Issues - How to Diagnose it, and fix it.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ต.ค. 2021
- My FiTech system is having a hard time starting... it takes several cranks, especially when warmed up. I ran into the FiTech team, and we figured out the issue! Let's do some troubleshooting and fix it!
It's time to replace my Carburetor, with a Fuel Injection system from FiTech. Have you ever wondered how to do it? How hard is it? What's involved in the process? Me Too! I've never done it before either, let's see how it goes... In this video, "FiTech Starting Issues - How to Diagnose it, and fix it. " I show what to watch out for when wiring your Throttle Body. This is clearly an Addendum to my existing playlist, because the White Wire needs power while while cranking, not just when keyed on! While this is for my 1969 Pontiac GTO, it is applicable to almost all makes and models of carbureted cars. Subscribe to follow along with the process, and for other project ideas for your ride!
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This channel is all about how to's and what to watch out for, when working on your own car. Mike is at the tail end of rebuilding his Pontiac 400, which is now a Butler Performance 467, because a Roller Lifter Broke! (see link below). Also fresh off of installing a New TREMEC TKO 600 from Silver Sport Transmissions. Subscribe to watch more projects on this built, not bought, 1969 Pontiac GTO.
Here's the latest Walk Around of the GTO, filmed by RestoMods.com • A Walk Around of my "B...
NEW! FMG MERCHANDISE available! Here's the online store for shirts (pick a color), and face masks, (Grey, Black, or Red) fmgmerch.threa...
PARTS USED IN THIS VIDEO:
35204 Master Kit Go EFI 4 System (Power Adder) w/Force Fuel, Fuel Delivery System- fitechefi.com/...
FiTech Force Fuel
fitechefi.com/...
FiTech Throttle Return Spring
fitechefi.com/...
Jegs Throttle Bracket and Return Spring, same as I showed.
www.jegs.com/i...
Solder Splice connectors, from Amazon
www.amazon.com...
FiTech Fuel Return Bung
fitechefi.com/...
Other Playlists of interest;
TREMEC installation, • How to install a Wilwo...
Hydraulic Roller Lifter Fail Inspection, and process:
• Something is still WRO...
Here's the Official Part 1, where Mike starts the preparation of Engine removal
• Pontiac V8 Camshaft Re...
Enjoy, and ask questions by leaving a comment below... See you on the other side!
See the build pics, before and after, at www.fastmontysgarage.com
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#GarageBuilt #DIY #FuelInjection
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Thanks for the advice. Mine was doing the same thing and I watched your video and wired the FiTech to the ignition switch and now it will fire up 2 seconds into the prime shot! Awesome!
Awesome! Great to hear I was able to help... thanks for the comment!
I just bought a car with a crate motor installed with fitech and I have to hold the key forever to start. This is this first thing I’ll look at. Got curious and searched here and found this good tip
Cool... let us know what you find out, and exactly what set up you have. Hope it's an easy fix!
Thanks for keeping the Pontiac hobby going. We need more guys like you. I've been considering FI for awhile, mainly because my 400 L78-w72 is still old school in the way it starts up. The Q-Jet when new on the car ('79 TA) wasn't easy to start, cold or hot. Now with all the power mods and enhancements made to the Q-Jet and the engine it still is tough to start when cold. The FItech is of interest to me so your video(s) on your encounters and fixes are helpful. Maybe someday, I'll go the FI route.
Thanks Bill! Yeah, those days of cranking and cranking, and cranking, and holding the pedal down until the engine is warm enough to stay at idle, feathering the throttle when coming to a stop, are long gone! I highly recommend converting to Fuel Injection. But, if you need an immediate fix to the carb cranking issue... check out this video I did. th-cam.com/video/7-1Mud8DblA/w-d-xo.html It should help with cold starts. Thanks again for the comment!
Ok thank you for the reply an I’ll definitely keep ya posted
Welcome! Keep at it!
Thanks ill look into this on my setup. I have fuel pressure but injectors barely squirt anything and it has been sitting for at least 6 months and now wont start. Ill check all electrical connections and try again
that's no fun... keep us posted!
Kudos Mike, on the diagnostics but I would expect more from you, and for the GTO as far as a permanent solution. If I may suggest, not splicing into a dedicated circuit to draw power for another, you're setting yourself up for possible future issues. Why not have a seperate underhood power distribution center. You can have a distribution block setup with both a dedicated 12v source and IGN. source, with separate fused circuits from a single unit. Not only does this make for a safer, cleaner electrical system, you can get a PDC with additional circuits so if you wanted to add any future accessories underhood, they can each have there own dedicated fused circuit. No splicing into circuits. They make them with relay circuits also, so you could have a relay circuit to starter solenoid, No more starter issues when engine hot. I wouldn't be satisfied with anything less than a full 12v IGN. source at my Fi-Tech, this solution would provide that full 12v needed.
Hey Ricky now thats some good info there. It'll be easier to diagnose a single electrical component to it's fault. Thank you for sharing. I learned something new from the both of you.
Yeah, Good point Rickey. Clearly, I had my head wrapped around fixing the issue. I think I do have a couple available circuits in the current fuse block. Thanks for the tip!
An update on this ... I called FiTech to find out what the AMP draw is on that keyed wire. It's zero. lol. All that wire does is monitor voltage, as long as it's above 8 or so, it allows the computer to remain on, and draws power from a dedicated battery in wire. So, not as bad as we first thought. :)
Great Video, and it was exactly what fixed my vehicle. Thanks for the in-depth video. Thanks again.
Great to hear! Thanks for the comment!
great vid bruh. when I start my rebuild I will watch every single one of the vids you made on this subject. I have a 68' WT block in my 68 firebird. I'm pretty sure I spun a bearing.
Thanks Brother... sorry to hear about your spun bearing, I guess you can now upgrade some components. Ha, ha...
I’m getting ready to install an Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI in my 69 mustang. My biggest concern is this 12v switched wire. I’m taking the advice of others on the mustang forums and running a new auxiliary fuse box. From there I will connect in the EFI. I just ordered a painless box #70107. Best of luck with your builds… I enjoy the videos… thanks!
Thanks Matt... just make sure you test that voltage while cranking. You never know what wire has power, for which car, etc... sounds like the Mustang forums have it nailed. Thanks for the comment, for others to learn from. See ya!
Nice work and I am impressed. I thought of doing this kind of system on Bonnie but it just to fancy for her I think. On most of my cars it can get messy with ballast resistor /points wiring. I only mention this because at the start the points get a pure 12v from the starter motor (sometimes there is a spade on the starter for this) wire then in run position the wiring switches to going through the ballast to make the points last longer. A long story, like it do, but you're in the same ballpark here. Keyed start voltage (or lack of it) and running voltage are a great subject to cover. Love that 80psi oil pressure! I also must say I love my Edlebrock fuel pump as it is quiet. Can't wait to see what you do about the fuel pump you have. Bobby
Thanks Bobby! Yeah, very similar in supplying power. Forgot to mention that the Keyed switch wire for the FiTech unit does NOT draw any power, it just looks for more than 8 volts ish, kind of like a relay, for the computer. Then the computer has a dedicated 12volt supply line to the battery. Thanks for the comment... and, yeah, I can't wait for my new fuel pump to get here. Taking forever!
Goodjob on the problem solve. Your fuel pressure at idle is a bit high . Only need around 45psi base pressure 🙌👊
Thanks... I'd agree that fuel injection systems don't need much at idle. However, most retro fit fuel systems have static regulators, and they're set at 58 to 60psi. As is mine. Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty ahh didn't realize it was a static regulator
Hi Mike. Sharing your experience is usefull. I had the same issue on my vette when i first started my xfi fast 2.0
I spent a lot of time to figure out what's going on. I even thought my ecu was burnt 😳. And after a very bad night i found the issue. Same as yours !!!
Ha! Yeah, I had given up and thought was just that way it's gonna be... glad I talked with the FiTech crew. Also good to know that other FI throttle bodies have the same internal relay. Thanks for sharing!
Hey Mike
I have been having problems with my Fi tech .Call there tech support and all they do is run circles and never get straight answer. Did everything they said and car is still not running right after a month. I think Fi tech needs to expand or there tech support and knowledge base. So now I am going back to my old distributor and using mechanical to advance the timing
They make it look so easy on you tube videos, but to be very straight forward . Fi tech would not be my first choice anymore because of tech support it is really bad. Its great that you got your car running great but would never recommend a Fi tech system to anyone ever again. Just to much of a hassle dealing with this type of EFI.
Cheers
Brother Fred, I'm so sorry to hear that. The issues I've had, have been because of my faulty installation. If you need to brainstorm possible solutions, let me know. Thanks again for your comment, it's very helpful for all of us to learn from each other. See ya!
Great video Mike.
Thanks Brother!
I finally got my 75 dodge truck to start! After a month of frustration. It still shows zero for the rpm's but at least it starts finally some progress. I found the fan was enabled and I'm not running an electric fan. After i disabled it then it will at least start now!
Awesome! Getting there!
Mike, I don't know to what extent you've redone the original wiring on your car, so what I'm about to say may be moot and off-target, but just in case... Originally, I believe your car would have had two battery-positive connections to the points-type distributor, one for key-on, and one for cranking the engine. The key-on would have been through resistor wire so as to drop the voltage (to about 9V IIRC) and therefore prolong the life of the points. The cranking wire would have supplied the full beans (12V) to the distributor for the hottest possible spark while cranking. Obviously, once HEI distributors came along, the resistor wire was no longer needed, and 12V could be supplied to the distributor all the time (as it is on my '74 Firebird Formula 400). The reason I mention it is that I noticed that after you got some voltage to the Fitech unit while cranking, it still didn't seem to be the full 12V, dropping to 9ish volts instead. Maybe it's just voltage drop, but OTOH it got me to thinking about the old wiring for the original points-type distributor, and I wondered if somehow that old resistor wire was still lurking about on your car. Food for thought. Great videos, keep 'em coming.
Great point Griff... It's a new Painless Harness. I suspect the voltage drop is due to the HEI unit. I would prefer 12volts constant. So, I'll probably look for another path at some point. Just need to make the time. ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty It is just general draw from the starter while it is under load.
Mine did the same thing, thanks for the video. Where do I het a fuel pressure gauge for under the dash?
Glad I could help... yeah, use this gauge... www.amazon.com/dp/B002DTCSTC?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzmikemont-20&creativeASIN=B002DTCSTC&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.2MZLR4U0XI069&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d_asin Here's the video I did about it. th-cam.com/video/G8tvOfbVqp8/w-d-xo.html
I used a 30 Amp relay, using the electric chock as the trigger. Wire direct 12 volt battery.
I was originally using the electric choke sending wire, but that had zero volts when cranking. This wire is the internal relay for the Throttle Body, there's a separate wire that goes directly to the battery. All is good now... thanks Jay!
Hi Mike , I have a Go 400hp and can't get my injectors to fire , fault code says my injectors are faulty ( all 4 of them ???? ) , I never thought about checking the crank rpm . I'm going to check power from my dizzy thanks 👍
Yikes! I haven't heard of that issue before. I would agree that all four aren't firing? Yeah, check the wiring... let us know what you find!
Thanks for the video, but I was wondering; why does it seem to happen long after you have been driving the car (like since the Fitech installation)?? Because we all have installed Fitech systems before, and like in my case, I am just now experiencing this issue (long after 6,000 miles of problem-free driving)?
Gerry, great question. I've had the issue since day one... but, not always the same behavior, as it's kind of related to battery strength. For me, I didn't know my alternator wasn't charging well. So, at the end of a cruise, or after driving, I had an especially hard time starting the car. Both starter speed, and lack of spark to self-kick start. When cold, the battery was fresh off a tender, so it would kick faster. Not sure why you're experiencing it later... maybe a similar issue, or wiring is loose? Let us know what you figure out!
Hi Mike, I have a Fitech 38350 system for TPI Chevy's on my Corvette. I did find that my feed wire was on the accessories, so I switched to the old Distributor "pink" wire. The engine now "fires" for a second, then dies. There are no RPM showing on the handheld during the crank, only briefly when the engine fires. I checked my voltage, and it stays above 10v at all times. The tech on duty is new and follows the installation manual only. The master tech, Dillon, is scheduled to call me tomorrow about this problem. Since most of the videos on TH-cam are the Carburetor replacement models, the wiring is different and I find that annoying since hundreds of these 38350 and 51' models are sold annually. Summit sold 23 already this year. Fitech should have a huge troubleshooting guide and solution manual by now. L98 and LS engines are a dime a dozen!~ Thanks for your video it helped me and I am sure others.
Hey Peter, sorry to hear about your frustrations... As you might have guessed, I don't know how that TPI system works. Is "Dillon" with FiTech? I know most of their tech staff are very good. If you figure it out, please let us know what the issue was. Thanks!
Yes. Dillon is one of their top tech's. I will let you know what the solution is as the systems do have common dna!
@@petercermak4095 Great! Can't wait to hear...
I'm having the same problem, I thought it was the distributor wasn't compatible, so I changed to a hei distributor and I still show a zero when I crank on it. I also do have 10v keyed while cranking?
So I don't know what to do from here? The hei distributor is only 2 wires one for the blue tach wire and one for the battery.
@@jaredgeeting2320 Did you test voltage while cranking? Per the video, I had voltage keyed on, but as soon as I went to crank it dropped to zero. I had to find another source for power. (In this video I used the same power lead to the HEI unit as power for the Fitech system) Please confirm.
Too much for me I don't have the patience to work it out, I guess I will keep the old Edelbrock SS (stomp and start) it works everytime, although I do enjoy your videos have learned a lot.
Ha! Nothing wrong with having a carb... thanks for the comment!
Nice job Mike.
Thanks John!
The circuit board is built into the throttle body. It is subjected to high under hood temperature and I hope it has a very high quality electronic circuit board. If it proves to be reliable and long lasting I will be interested. I hope for your sake its built well. I wonder what FiTech has to say about that
Yeah, we all know electronics don't like heat. What does Fitech say? They said, "we now have a 3 year warranty" so, there's that. Ha ha.
@@FastMonty If its made in China I hope it's fine China. They should really stick to porcelain
@@chriscimino7854 That's funny... where else do circuit boards come from?
I had a similar issue with my sniper. I did have power while cranking but when i ran other accessories it drained power from the ecu. So temporary i used that same hot wire to trigger a relay and now feed power to the ecu from the battery thru the relay. Works great although not final
Yeah, I like it... I'm sure there are better ways of wiring for me too... I just wanted power, lol. Good idea with using a relay.
Installing Sniper and Hyperspark on my 68 Firebird, doing the same thing. Glad to see it worked out for you, adds confidence that it should work on mine as well.
@@kevinw6282 Yep, good to be aware of the possible issue. Good luck!
@@kevinw6282 thanks . Runs great , no troubles after that. Just gotta make sure you have clean power. Good luck to you
Thanks 👍
Welcome!
I think I'm having the same issue. I'm gonna check for the 12 v connection
Awesome... let us know how it goes!
I have a FT 30004 on a 400+ cid V8. I do NOT have the problem discussed in this video. The battery is NEW and of the appropriate CCA and reserve. Key on is good. Battery voltage is present at the coil (and the white wire) when the key is turned on and during cranking. Distro is an HEI with a matched coil. RPMs are present during cranking, fuel pressure is as expected. Vacuum at idle is as it was with the carb this unit replaced. Coil + is appx BAT+ when running and varies somewhat during cranking (11.0 - 11.9). When idling, the TPS is "0" and the IAS drifts between "5" and "7", usually settling at "6" around 180 degrees engine temp. Since swapping from an Edelbrock 1406 to this FT, it has NEVER started well; certainly NOT when cranked the first 2x. It does, however, start on the 3rd attempt when cold. When hot it starts up 1st time, though it cranks slower than when cold, which is expected.
Sorry brother... In all honesty, mine sometimes did that too. The main issue for this video was hot starting rarely worked, which is how I came across this issue. Anyway, I think you might need to experiment with your Cold Crank Fuel setting. As an experiment, try keying on when cold... do not crank it. When you hear the throttle body "squirt", key off. Wait a few seconds, key on again. Wait for it to squirt, then try cranking. If it immediately fires, you need more cold crank fuel. Let us know what happens, and thanks for leaving a comment. Oh, and don't touch the gas pedal... sometimes a habit of us carb guys... doing so tells the throttle body NOT to send that pump squirt.
@@FastMonty CCF was not the problem as I had already mod'd that for the 60 degree start. As it turns out, the starting AFR was a bit too lean, and so I add some to the After Start Fuel and that cleared the issue. I change only 1 thing at a time and judge the result based on the starting characteristics on the following day. So now, all is good.
@@backthatthingupyoyoy That's fantastic news! Thanks for sharing for others to learn from... have fun!
I left my Superformance cobra with a 460 and the FiTech 600hp carburetor sit for a year on the lift whi renovated a 77 Porsche Targa. Now I’m not getting any fuel into the carburetor; no squirt no flow. I have fuel and oil pressure, spark everything worked fine a year ago. What can you suggest trying? Wes
Good question John... sorry you're going through that frustration. I'm curious to know, where is the fuel pressure sending unit? Most are at the pump... typically when a car sits for a long time, the sediment in the fuel tank settles on the bottom and can get pulled into the pump when first firing it up... clogging the filter, after the point of fuel pressure measurement. Anyway, just thinking out loud... let me know what you find.
I’ve installed the fitech ultra ram with the force fuel but my injectors are not opening up I’m getting the right amount of fuel pressure I checked all my grounds and power connections and there all good .. I’m lost . Do you have any suggestions
Hey Duke, sorry to hear it's not behaving... unfortunately I have no experience with their tunnel ram. I'd try and call FiTech... good luck, and let us know what you find out!
Imagine the frustration if you hadn’t run into those guys who told you where to look and diagnose the problem. Potentially could have took forever to figure that out.
Ha! Yeah, potentially... But, things do happen for a reason, and I may have finally mentally broke down and called them. lol
My fitech used to run good but I left it one night in the garage and it runs really bad and it can't stay on idle and it runs waaaaaaayyy rich like 10.7 afr my hg is at -11.
Ohhh, that's no bueno. Mechanically speaking, too much air in the exhaust would cause an over rich condition. ie, an exhaust leak. Check your header bolts and exhaust connection. Assuming those are good, check for any loose electrical fittings. Other than that, it would be something internal, that I'm not an expert on yet... keep us posted on your findings!
Question. Couldnt the white wire coming out of the fitech 6 pin connector be tied into the distributor battery + terminal and get the same results?
Good question. The answer is yes. I was running HEI at the time, and didn't want to tap that wire. Thanks for the comment!
Hello. Good video! Questions. If you have a fully charged battery and don't run the car for 2 weeks does the FiTech FI computer drain the battery to a no start condition? Do you know the current draw? If the computer drains the battery to a no start condition does it reset the computer and all the past learning has been lost. Another question..sorry. Can you back-up the current FiTech map so if you need to unhook the battery for maintenance you don't loose your settings? THANKS!!
Thanks Danno... good questions. The battery draw is minimal unless you have the handheld connected. No one can predict how long a non-tendered battery will last, because everyone's car is different. That said, if the battery is removed, the data stored on the FiTech unit will remain intact. Hope that helps!
@@FastMonty It sure does help and thanks for the reply! I'm working on a 1971 Camaro. Many of your videos directly pertain to my build. I have a 1995 LT1 and T56 that I've stored for 20 years and guess where its going minus the OPTI and FI from that era. Engine and Tranny only have 25K miles on it. I built a engine test stand and will use it to test out the LT1. Probably change every gasket and seal on it before I install it in the 71'.
@@Danno74Z Nice! Can't wait to see it, when it's done. Keep us posted!
Fitech tech line isn't very helpful. I bought a $2200 Ultra Ram for sbc. Installed easy enough, but the IAC values on the handheld, regardless of where the IAC screw was set on initial set-up, would read 0 and -14. No matter where i set up the initial timing (typically 10° - 12°) the parking idle was too high and you couldn't dial the IAC values down to between 3-10. The tech videos were basically useless because the handheld units they showed predated the modern one that came in my kit. I missed 3 big car shows before i finally pulled the Fitech system off and put it on the shelf, indefinitely. Had to go back to the stock carb and intake. It was frustrating to say the least, and the issue was never resolved. So far has been a waste of $2200.
Yikes. I'm sorry to hear that. I know nothing about tunnel rams... I've had good success so far. I'll keep my ears pealed for ya. Thanks for the heads up.
I think you just solved my problem. No rpm on handheld and no volts while cranking at whit wire. Hmmmmmm
Awesome! Keep us posted, especially on where you decided to tap your white wire into. Thanks for the comment!
Hows the FI-Tech running for you?
Runnin Great!
Glad you figured out that it was the keyed on power wire . Great Video ass usual . that 10 gauge wiire is probably why you were seeing over 9 volts instead of 7 like the F.i.tech guys were saying. What do you think.?
Thanks... the FiTech guys were just saying you need at least 7 volts, for it to work, on whatever source you find. I need to find out how many amps it requires... hmmm just incase I need a dedicated circuit. We'll see.
@ 3:46 is that a oil pressure line going to the gauge inside the car? If that plastic line gets nicked or melts on a hot surface and oil sprays on the exhaust your car will go up in flames. Please keep an eye on that line.
Totally agreed, but not as risky as my fuel pressure line going inside the cabin... ha, ha... just living life on the edge. You know, like taking off with my seat back and tray table down. :)
@@FastMonty Just remember your system is only as strong as your weakest link. I'd hate to see I told you so. Good luck 👍
@@automech01 Ha! Totally agree. Both lines will be changed soon, all part of the plan. Thanks!
My Fitech 30005 is not doing the initial injection to start the car.
Has 50psi fuel pressure
What to do?
Sorry to hear that... It's not squirting? Maybe you need 58psi or more? Why only 50 psi?
Hi Mike I've been watching a lot of your fight Tech videos I'm new to this world I've got one that I installed a couple years ago and I'm having issues seeing if you might be of assistance
I'm always here... while I'm not an expert, I can definitely make recommendations. Let me know.
I was having these issues! Though when hot it starts but then stalls and is hard to start! Think it is related?
Maybe. Check the cranking voltage. Let us know what you find out.
@@FastMonty Yes, I will. Normally these old cars took the dizzy voltage from the starter circuit during cranking. Wonder if I can duplicate? It is the season and got to keep it reliable if I am to cruise with the wifey.
@@quickboat22 Yeah, I ended up doing the same... let us know what works!
@@FastMonty So I went out to the garage connected the hand held and cranked it to see if I had RPM. After a couple seconds It started immediately! Never touched the pedal and it idled. It is in the 90's in garage today. I have the 8 injector 8-1200hp unit but the tuning maps are very weak if I got out the lap top. Do you have a good source for knowledge in tuning these? Or random TH-cam Vids are all we have?
@@quickboat22 Awesome! Unfortunately, no, I don't know of any good sources for tuning... As, I haven't done it myself yet either... one of these days, as you know. Thanks for the update!
If you had an electric choke on your old carburetor you could of use that I believe.
Ummm, you could use what? Wrong video?
@@FastMonty the voltage from the wire that was hooked up to the electric choke. Couldn’t have you tapped into that?
@ArmyGreenFJ ahhh that's the wire I was using, apparently it has zero volts while cranking.
@@FastMonty ahh i see.
I’m having that same issue 😓… just don’t feel as confident messing with mine!
I believe in you Roman! You won't hurt anything by busting out that voltmeter to verify that it's a supplied cranking power problem. Good luck!
@@FastMonty thank you
Which Fiteck are you using? I have a mean street but haven’t started engine yet.
It's a Go EFI Power Adder 600. I don't think it matters what one you have, just make sure you have more than 7 volts on the keyed wire, when cranking. Always learning... ha, ha...
@@FastMonty yep that’s why I’m always watching. Good luck.
@@Roadglide911 Ha! Thanks for the comment!
I have a question for you. I've watched your videos and it's been a big help, but I'm having a problem with my fitech go easy street model.
I have a 1975 dodge power wagon with a 318.
I installed the fitech system and I was using a perpronix distributor with a coil, and it wouldn't read to the ecu unless I was trying to start it. It also wasn't showing any rpm while cranking. I do have 10v keyed. Fitech tech said try an Hei distributor so I did.
I can read and send to the ecu no problem but I'm still at a zero while cranking and I still have 10v keyed wire. Do you have any suggestions? Did I maybe not set it up right on the hand held or is it another problem? Also the blue fitech tach wire is going to the tach wire on the distributor.
After starting, does the RPM show up on the handheld?
It won't start
@jaredgeeting2320 ohhhh. With your hand held, key on, go to fault codes, hit clear codes, key off. Wait a minute. Try starting.
It at least started for a min when I disabled the fan! Some progress at least. I'll try clearing the fault codes
@jaredgeeting2320 progress! Maybe also add a jumper wire from the "ground" on the throttle body to a known good ground and/or negative terminal. Lots of issues created by faulty ground paths. Keep us posted!
Is it just me or does that fuel gage show empty?
Sure does. Good observation. But, doesn't mean there isn't fuel. Thanks.
Mr. Monty. Why does your fuel pressure gauge say "Must be Mounted outside of vehicle" ???
Ohhhh, you know why... ha, ha... just livin life on the edge. (I'll be changing to a Stepper Motor version, but dang those are not cheap) Thanks!
@@FastMonty You can call me "Mr Fire watch". Doing this suff all my life, I have some really good burn down stories. None of the mine. but have saved a few. Fire dept once said I was the best equipped civilian they ever ran into. I'l leave you alone for awhile 👍
@@63grandsport11 Ha! That's awesome... good to have Mr Fire Watch lookin out. Thanks again!
What's wrong with system if it starts runs fine but soon engine warms up car shuts down while driving
Totally depends on the symptoms. Ie is it stalling, are you Cruising, coming to a stop, wide open throttle,etc?
... bigger wire's are always better
That's what she said! ha!
not to smart putting that fuel gauge inside the car, if the gauge goes bad and leaks you will have a big problem
Yup, I'm aware... saving up for some Stepper Gauges, which are 4x the price of mechanical.
My car started fine for a day. And now it’s having issues starting. I’m pulling my hair out
Frustrating, I know. Do you have any error codes? Try clearing the codes, even if you don't have any. Then double check all wiring. Just takes one wire to come loose, and it won't cooperate. Let us know how you figure it out!
@@FastMonty zero error codes. I’m thinking my IAC screw is faulty. Hopefully not. Im sitting at 150 IAC. And the car stalls at 130 ish.
@@FastMonty I will try to clear error codes too. The car was running consistently and starting consistently but I did not like the 150 IAC. But there a lot going on with my project. So there’s probably more at fault than just the IAC.
@@motor_citymuscle288 Yeah, multiple variables makes it complicated. I agree with tackling that IAC value. Let us know how it goes.
@@FastMonty I messed with the timing and did what I could to reset the IAC and the car won’t start now. I have spark…. I’ll be calling FiTech on Monday.
Get rid of that plastic oil pressure tube to your gauge! Your asking for problems!
Agreed. Already done. Replaced it with a -04 Stainless Steel braided hose. Thanks for looking out!
Check your email I sent you those Pics of the 68 GTO.
I checked... no email. Maybe the files you sent are too big?
resent
@@CTSV2018 Got it. Lookin good!
fitec is junk and has no tech support i went back to carb it runs better and does not run battery dead after a week of sitting
Bummer... mine is running great, and waayyyy better than my carb. No battery issues either... maybe someone wired it wrong?
@@FastMonty it was wired like the instructions said sad thing is i have a complete gm setup i went with fitec because it was a cleaner looking system this was on a car i built for my wife to drive now she is scared the car will quit on her
@@benscoggins3149 Sorry to hear that... Fuel Injection can be sensitive, BUT, it should make your car more reliable. Mine fires right up, and never stalls. Unlike my carb set up. Hopefully you figure something out, to get your wife driving. Good luck! Let me know if you ever have any questions, and I'll do my best to help.