Great Job Jon! Like Keith said you'll need a thermostat housing with the sensor bung. hehe I said "bung". Chevys have an extra one in the block but Henry apparently did not find them necessary.
Here in the UK We have just installed the efi 500 into a 1949 f100 302 block. If you only have 1 wire dizzy then your tac wire goes to that. Your key switch wire goes to the positing coil. Different wiring for different distributors. We had a 2 wire dizzy but it wasnt tall enough to go past the inlet plenum for timing adjust but if it had then positive dizzy wire would go to positive coil and negative dizzy wire would go to negative coil. Tac would then go to negatie coil wire. We have auto water pump so positive goes to coil positive and other goes to ground. Fan wire off loom goes to positive wire on fan and negative to ground. Fuel pump positive to fuel wire on loom. Fuel pump negative to ground on chasis.inline fuel pump has to be 3 feet away from tank with filter inbetweem tank and pump. Another filter after pump the fuel line to fuel regulator. Fuel pressure needs to be 58 to 60 psi for this system.
Jon glad you finally got it running. Mine is still in the box 😞. I too want the dash temp gauge to work so I bought a new aluminum thermostat housing from Wild Horses. It has a sensor port.
Hey, great video! this helped me out a lot. Just finished doing this to my '81 F100 with a 302. Great tip on connecting the white wire to the Voltage regulator Green/Red wire. The Red/Green solenoid wire only works in Crank pos tho. As far as the temp gauge goes, my new manifold had multiple openings in the coolant pipe, so I just put both the FITech sensor and my stock sensor in them.
Installed on my bronco too and learned the hard way that you can not splice either an existing temp sensor or existing tach wire or you will get signal interferences on both and trip fi tech fault codes and you won't run.
Well produced video. Could you go into more on synchronizing distributor to Fitech. I do detect a problem with the 16ga. wire you spliced to main 14ga. power wire. You should have used 12ga. You are running Fitech, fuel pump, and ignition all on that to small of wire. Remember too that when you ran that ground wire back to batterie, you need to add that length to the power length to calc. amp draw.
+j kropp good info. I didn't even catch that I misspoke. It wasn't 16ga, but now I can't remember if it was 14 or 12. I think the fitech wire is 14 and I bought 14 to match. I didn't think about the power draw from the battery. I need to look at that. Thanks again!
great video, I understand you are just learning, so here is something for future , your dura spark dist. is a 2 wire dist, and while the msd dist is a great unit, I run one myself, you could of run the one you had. I just got my fitec what I'm still unclear about, is if I can still run my msd 6AL box and still use the fitec timing control, mine is going on a 72 Maverick race car, and the msd has all my rev control that I don't want to lose
Yes, the duraspark is a 2 wire distributor, but per fitech it does not work with their system ( or it didn’t at the time of install). The duraspark actually has an extra wire (I think it’s a ground wire) that fitech didn’t know what to do with. I’m sure there’s a work around, but I didn’t take the time to figure it out and just went with the MSD. I didn’t set mine up with a 6AL box, but the instructions say you can to utilize the fitech timing control. Sounds like you have an awesome build. Hope it all works for you 👍🏼
Hey man, I'm sure it's way late, but you can add a 90deg fitting that's more like a TEE going into your intake manifold (water side) with a port available for an additional CLT sensor. Hope all is well, your videos have been super helpful restoring the old family bronco. The one I'm struggling with now is can I roll with a tach and the FITECH on the same wire off of an HEI dist., or will I have issues... I'll figure out one way or another... Either way man, cheers and very helpful videos. I think I owe you a beer at this point.
Based on earlier comments, I'll take caution. Sounds like you can't really share that signal and the FITECH needs it. I guess I'll keep driving her off of sound then.
Jon.., does the fitech reads the “map “ on both sides .., because you are using a dual plane intake that is completely seperated . Theres only the gasget gap I think ..?
Great Information thanks. Wanting to get the go efi 4 because i plan on putting it on a much larger motor in the future but would be putting it on an almost stock 302 truck setup for now. Fitech is advertising this setup for between 250 and 600 hp. How wild is your setup? Is this simply too big for a stock 5 liter? thanks
Thank you very much for your help. A friend question I am connecting the fitech with the msd 6012, just to leave doubts, should I put the output cable of the tach to the blue cable of fitech? Why I understand that msd sends 12v non-negative signal ....
Great video man, know it takes a lot of time to make these damn video let alone put in the Fitech system. I have 2 systems (and no I did not get one "extra" sent to me lol) but boy do I know your struggle X2. They said you could do it in a weekend, no problem... Well I guess I'm like you, mistakes are my middle name. Defiantly took me a few weeks maybe a month to get one old skool started. Theres always a few extra parts you need to order because every vehicle has s different setup. I needed a new dual sending unit for the return line and extra AN fittings which took a few days to get in (another set back). Watch out for the crush washer on the fuel pump fellas! If you don't get it seeded correctly its gonna LEAK! It took Fitech 3 weeks to send me a new F'in washer. Shit like that will slow you down... And piss you off too! I had a MSD ignition box in my system that went bad and I almost gave up trying to get my ride started. When in doubt, start over and KISS that baby (Keep It Simple Stupid) So I took the MSD box out and removed it form the system... well what do you know... it started. Check your timing and maybe just maybe you'll get to take it around the block. Check for leaks, check your work and take it easy till you get the system 100% I found out my AFR was TO HIGH and I was running rich @ 14 AFR so I bumped it down to 12.6 and running much cleaner now! Even though back in the day carbs were the SHIT, now a days very few people know how to properly adjust them. So KISS, the system is pretty solid overall and once you get it in correctly and your motor dialed in you won't regret EFI! Good luck out there. Looking forward to more videos, like your style kat! I think I even heard your wife in background celebrating you got the darn thing started! lol
+Nashville Early Bronco my truck was smoking (out of the tail pipe) pretty good before I adjusted the AFR, bring it down a bit and it will make a big difference. Good luck brother!
Are u located in Nashville tn? If so I’d like to hire u to help finish my fitech tuning, I cannot keep it at idle unless I run a manual 60 degrees of timing I’m beyond frustrated, this kit is far from user friendly
Great information! I recently discovered these carb style efi throttle bodies and I'm wondering how they compare to the modern 302 intakes. My daily driver is a 2001 Explorer with the gt40 heads and intake. How does the Fitech stack up on a motor that already has efi? My other option is Holley Systemax/Trick Flow Track Heat or something similar.
No such thing as a "modern 302", they stopped making them almost 30 years ago. Not throwing stones at you, my "fun car" is running a 1969 block (351W) so it is over 50 years old! Disappointing to go to the local parts store and basic things like thermostat or valve cover gaskets have to be special ordered :-(
@@EdBert the later 302s ditched the distributor in favor of coil packs. So there are a couple modern(for the time) upgrades before they stopped production.
Honestly I didn't know about the other options until I bought this one. Then I started seeing all of them. But from what I've read, this is a solid option (but I didn't do my research)
Found some problems with this truck. Has transfer pump from front to back tank with no vapor recovery. Front pump runs all the time KOER and creates fuel vapor pressure in rear tank also fuel return is at base of the filler neck near the tank. I didn't install this system. I was asked to fix.
Does the tank vent at all? I have a vented gas cap and still have one vent line hooked up. But I can see how pressure could build up quick if I didn’t have that.
Greetings friend, I would like to know in which part of the fitech cable branch is the negative? I see that only the positive (12volt) is connected but the negative does not ... wonder how or where is the negative in the fitech system? I thought it was black wire but I see it says coil not ground
Has anyone else complained (or remarked) as to the HUGE additional pedal effort with the FiTech? Unbelievable. Cannot easily feather the pedal without sending shock waves thru the car frame.
I am trying to figure out if this would work on my F150, I have a 1996 302 I’m building from a bronco, would this do any justice to me getting more power?
+Ethankirsch Kirsch it would work with that engine, but it’s not going to increase horsepower. The FiTech doesn’t really give you much more hp but for me it made my engine run better
Do you have a tach? Or do you just rely on the tach from the FiTech? The reason I'm asking is because of the #999 Gray/Yellow Wire. I'm afraid that if I remove that wire, then I won't get a signal back to my tach on the steering column.
Nashville Early Bronco same here with my 289 but it is so loud on warm up sometimes that I almost thought it was a bearing. It is so loud that I can't even pin point the squeal. Good info on the install.
Nashville Early Bronco just the painless so far. That was the first thing I did, and I knew nothing about vehicles when I did it. Best learning experience I could have had. Still have a carb, but want to make the switch to the FiTech. Just not sure when it will happen. I'm struggling with priority vs. funds right now. I think floor pans are next. Debating on whether to pull the body and sandblast/paint the frame. My fear with that is that I'll be out of commission for a year, which means my boys won't be happy.
+Ryan Duwe haha! Yeah man when you pull the body prepare to not drive it for a really long time. And if funds are an issue I would not pull the body. That gets really expensive as you keep needing to buy $50 parts you break. All those 50 year old parts are brittle!
Oh hmmm, i thought you could rip out all of the advance mechanism stuff and get it to work... will have to double check forums etc.. Did you confirm it wouldn't work?
It is possible i believe, here is a thread talking about using a conversion harness if you don’t want to splice into it etc: forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/1038778-distriutor-fitech-efi.html
woah! you have time to tune your carb every morning before going to work? (@ 1:46) so you're saying, EVERY DAY before going to work, you set aside time to TUNE your carb? every day? and you blame this on carbs? Are you a Fitech actor or something?
Hey man I'm subbed and watch your videos lately they have helped a lot I did the 600 pa on a 302 I'm in the process of setting timing control but I have a question it seems I have some "blow by" since the install but I'm no mechanic is this too much? Check my Chanel I'll upload a video please
It still could be bad rings but doesn't seem as likely now coolant levels are fine car was stored last winter only ran a couple short times could just be mouisture from what I'm gathering thanks!
Any one wanting to buy a Fitech should think long and hard about wasting your hard earned cash on this system. Months of drama and no support for Fitech. Still not running!! Junk!!!
Great Job Jon! Like Keith said you'll need a thermostat housing with the sensor bung. hehe I said "bung". Chevys have an extra one in the block but Henry apparently did not find them necessary.
+Matt's Garage haha!!! Good deal
Here in the UK We have just installed the efi 500 into a 1949 f100 302 block. If you only have 1 wire dizzy then your tac wire goes to that. Your key switch wire goes to the positing coil. Different wiring for different distributors. We had a 2 wire dizzy but it wasnt tall enough to go past the inlet plenum for timing adjust but if it had then positive dizzy wire would go to positive coil and negative dizzy wire would go to negative coil. Tac would then go to negatie coil wire.
We have auto water pump so positive goes to coil positive and other goes to ground. Fan wire off loom goes to positive wire on fan and negative to ground. Fuel pump positive to fuel wire on loom. Fuel pump negative to ground on chasis.inline fuel pump has to be 3 feet away from tank with filter inbetweem tank and pump. Another filter after pump the fuel line to fuel regulator. Fuel pressure needs to be 58 to 60 psi for this system.
You sir are ok in my book. I plan on doing this same setup in the near future. Thanks for the info!
+kevin maxwell thanks man!
Jon glad you finally got it running. Mine is still in the box 😞. I too want the dash temp gauge to work so I bought a new aluminum thermostat housing from Wild Horses. It has a sensor port.
+Keith Kowalski ah man! I thought for sure you would beat me. Get to it man!
It took me 9 hours. That includes removing smog and making a custom surge tank. It fired right up first try 🤪
Boom! Nicely done
Cool, so can you come do mine 😩😩…
@@screemishnescity what's my reward? 🤣
Hey, great video! this helped me out a lot. Just finished doing this to my '81 F100 with a 302. Great tip on connecting the white wire to the Voltage regulator Green/Red wire. The Red/Green solenoid wire only works in Crank pos tho. As far as the temp gauge goes, my new manifold had multiple openings in the coolant pipe, so I just put both the FITech sensor and my stock sensor in them.
Thanks for trying out with new products. Please note if you see any improvement in gas mileage on the next video.
+Darius Adams you got it! Thanks for watching
you can use a brass tee and install both temp sensors so you have for the fitech and for your dash
Installed on my bronco too and learned the hard way that you can not splice either an existing temp sensor or existing tach wire or you will get signal interferences on both and trip fi tech fault codes and you won't run.
+johnrisham ohhhh!!!! Man that sucks!!! Good to know
Is it possible to run your instrument cluster tach then or no?
Yeah there’s one tach wire for your cluster
lol disregard that last comment. I forgot to finish watching and turns out you answer my question haha awesome video. Can't wait to do one myself
+Hunter Coscia haha no worries
Well produced video. Could you go into more on synchronizing distributor to Fitech. I do detect a problem with the 16ga. wire you spliced to main 14ga. power wire. You should have used 12ga. You are running Fitech, fuel pump, and ignition all on that to small of wire. Remember too that when you ran that ground wire back to batterie, you need to add that length to the power length to calc. amp draw.
+j kropp good info. I didn't even catch that I misspoke. It wasn't 16ga, but now I can't remember if it was 14 or 12. I think the fitech wire is 14 and I bought 14 to match. I didn't think about the power draw from the battery. I need to look at that. Thanks again!
MSD = My Spark Disappeared :)
+Beer Money Games! Bwahahaha!!! So true
you can get a water neck from the intake with a temp hole.
+Brian Clark nice thanks!
How good or bad are they on gas milage? I have a 2 barrel holley i plan on daily driving my ford f150 302
great video, I understand you are just learning, so here is something for future , your dura spark dist. is a 2 wire dist, and while the msd dist is a great unit, I run one myself, you could of run the one you had.
I just got my fitec what I'm still unclear about, is if I can still run my msd 6AL box and still use the fitec timing control, mine is going on a 72 Maverick race car, and the msd has all my rev control that I don't want to lose
Yes, the duraspark is a 2 wire distributor, but per fitech it does not work with their system ( or it didn’t at the time of install). The duraspark actually has an extra wire (I think it’s a ground wire) that fitech didn’t know what to do with. I’m sure there’s a work around, but I didn’t take the time to figure it out and just went with the MSD. I didn’t set mine up with a 6AL box, but the instructions say you can to utilize the fitech timing control. Sounds like you have an awesome build. Hope it all works for you 👍🏼
Hey man, I'm sure it's way late, but you can add a 90deg fitting that's more like a TEE going into your intake manifold (water side) with a port available for an additional CLT sensor. Hope all is well, your videos have been super helpful restoring the old family bronco. The one I'm struggling with now is can I roll with a tach and the FITECH on the same wire off of an HEI dist., or will I have issues... I'll figure out one way or another... Either way man, cheers and very helpful videos. I think I owe you a beer at this point.
Based on earlier comments, I'll take caution. Sounds like you can't really share that signal and the FITECH needs it. I guess I'll keep driving her off of sound then.
Thanks man! Haha! I’ll take a beer anytime!
Jon.., does the fitech reads the “map “ on both sides .., because you are using a dual plane intake that is completely seperated . Theres only the gasget gap I think ..?
Not to mechanic savvy, but can I run an hei distributor with this system? By the way, awesome video. Thank you !!
Anybody else scared he was gonna talk like that all the way through?💀 also good vid man
😂😂 sorry, glad it turned out better
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco nah like this was very helpful, is there any non 300$ option for the distributor lol bills be tight
Haha! I get that. I’m not sure of what other distributors work with that one
Great Information thanks. Wanting to get the go efi 4 because i plan on putting it on a much larger motor in the future but would be putting it on an almost stock 302 truck setup for now. Fitech is advertising this setup for between 250 and 600 hp. How wild is your setup? Is this simply too big for a stock 5 liter? thanks
My engine is a stock 302 as well. I put it on the dyno and it made 140hp 😂 so no, it’s not too big for a stock 302. It runs great and I love it.
Good video my brother
Appreciate it
Thank you very much for your help. A friend question I am connecting the fitech with the msd 6012, just to leave doubts, should I put the output cable of the tach to the blue cable of fitech? Why I understand that msd sends 12v non-negative signal ....
I believe that's correct!
Great video man, know it takes a lot of time to make these damn video let alone put in the Fitech system. I have 2 systems (and no I did not get one "extra" sent to me lol) but boy do I know your struggle X2. They said you could do it in a weekend, no problem... Well I guess I'm like you, mistakes are my middle name. Defiantly took me a few weeks maybe a month to get one old skool started. Theres always a few extra parts you need to order because every vehicle has s different setup. I needed a new dual sending unit for the return line and extra AN fittings which took a few days to get in (another set back). Watch out for the crush washer on the fuel pump fellas! If you don't get it seeded correctly its gonna LEAK! It took Fitech 3 weeks to send me a new F'in washer. Shit like that will slow you down... And piss you off too! I had a MSD ignition box in my system that went bad and I almost gave up trying to get my ride started. When in doubt, start over and KISS that baby (Keep It Simple Stupid) So I took the MSD box out and removed it form the system... well what do you know... it started. Check your timing and maybe just maybe you'll get to take it around the block. Check for leaks, check your work and take it easy till you get the system 100% I found out my AFR was TO HIGH and I was running rich @ 14 AFR so I bumped it down to 12.6 and running much cleaner now! Even though back in the day carbs were the SHIT, now a days very few people know how to properly adjust them. So KISS, the system is pretty solid overall and once you get it in correctly and your motor dialed in you won't regret EFI! Good luck out there. Looking forward to more videos, like your style kat!
I think I even heard your wife in background celebrating you got the darn thing started! lol
+Tim R haha! Thanks man! I still need to get mine running a little more lean!
+Nashville Early Bronco my truck was smoking (out of the tail pipe) pretty good before I adjusted the AFR, bring it down a bit and it will make a big difference. Good luck brother!
+Tim R thanks for the tip! I'll try that
I'm curious as to how to FiTech controls timing. What distributor did you buy? I assume it's not a mechanical advance, then?
+Heintz Boy Garage I got the MSD Pro Billet, you lock it out then FiTech can control it.
Did you mean power on and not crank on at about 12 min mark?
Bro can you please walk me thru a fitech install for my 83 monte carlo
use the crossover in the rear of the intake if there is one
Are u located in Nashville tn? If so I’d like to hire u to help finish my fitech tuning, I cannot keep it at idle unless I run a manual 60 degrees of timing
I’m beyond frustrated, this kit is far from user friendly
Great information! I recently discovered these carb style efi throttle bodies and I'm wondering how they compare to the modern 302 intakes. My daily driver is a 2001 Explorer with the gt40 heads and intake. How does the Fitech stack up on a motor that already has efi? My other option is Holley Systemax/Trick Flow Track Heat or something similar.
No such thing as a "modern 302", they stopped making them almost 30 years ago. Not throwing stones at you, my "fun car" is running a 1969 block (351W) so it is over 50 years old! Disappointing to go to the local parts store and basic things like thermostat or valve cover gaskets have to be special ordered :-(
@@EdBert the later 302s ditched the distributor in favor of coil packs. So there are a couple modern(for the time) upgrades before they stopped production.
Hi is it possible to have all original gauges working in concert with the efi system?
Man.... officially jealous. So what made you decide fitech over the holley or edelbrock efi offerings?
Honestly I didn't know about the other options until I bought this one. Then I started seeing all of them. But from what I've read, this is a solid option (but I didn't do my research)
Well I obviously havent done my research either. I had not heard of fitech until now. Let us know how it holds up man.
Looking into doing the same, was wondering how it has held up so far
Great Video
Looks like fuel pump was only change needed. Did the bronco have a compatible tank and fuel return lines already?
No I have a stock tank running the return line up top in one of the vent ports
For the temp run a t to split the port. So u can screw the two Sensors on. 🤙🏽🤙🏽
+Jovan Garcia 👍🏼 thank you!
Where do you find one of those?
It’s there another EFI that doesn’t coast $1k and require a $300 conversion?
Do you have video on how you did your fuel tank return line?
+Demi Cruz no, but I️ just ran a single line from the return on the fitech to one of the vent ports on my tank
Have this system on the same bronco. Any issues with over pressure in fuel tanks?
None yet
Found some problems with this truck. Has transfer pump from front to back tank with no vapor recovery. Front pump runs all the time KOER and creates fuel vapor pressure in rear tank also fuel return is at base of the filler neck near the tank. I didn't install this system. I was asked to fix.
Does the tank vent at all? I have a vented gas cap and still have one vent line hooked up. But I can see how pressure could build up quick if I didn’t have that.
Greetings friend, I would like to know in which part of the fitech cable branch is the negative? I see that only the positive (12volt) is connected but the negative does not ... wonder how or where is the negative in the fitech system? I thought it was black wire but I see it says coil not ground
+RUTH NOEMI MORLES DE CASTELLANOS I believe the fitech is grounded to the engine block. I don't remember running a desperate ground...
Has anyone else complained (or remarked) as to the HUGE additional pedal effort with the FiTech? Unbelievable. Cannot easily feather the pedal without sending shock waves thru the car frame.
Why didnt you go with the 400 hp efi kit?
+oldhawkins the 600 has the timing control
Oh ok.
I am trying to figure out if this would work on my F150, I have a 1996 302 I’m building from a bronco, would this do any justice to me getting more power?
+Ethankirsch Kirsch it would work with that engine, but it’s not going to increase horsepower. The FiTech doesn’t really give you much more hp but for me it made my engine run better
So it’s not going to do anything for me
+Ethankirsch Kirsch probably not if you already had EFI
Do you have a tach? Or do you just rely on the tach from the FiTech? The reason I'm asking is because of the #999 Gray/Yellow Wire. I'm afraid that if I remove that wire, then I won't get a signal back to my tach on the steering column.
+Ryan Duwe I don't have a tach, just rely on the fitech. Isn't the green wire carrying the signal to the tach? I can't remember the painless number
Yes, you're correct. I asked the question prior to looking at the book. My bad.
Haha! No worries
Does the EFI require fuel return line?
It does
Was that squeal at the end from your belt or a bearing?
+mercurysun6 belts. They squeal a lot. I don’t even hear it anymore 😂
Nashville Early Bronco same here with my 289 but it is so loud on warm up sometimes that I almost thought it was a bearing. It is so loud that I can't even pin point the squeal. Good info on the install.
+mercurysun6 haha yeah I hear you. Thanks
Do you have aftermarket gauges as well?
No just the stock ones
What intake manifold was used with this swap?
Edelbrock performer I believe. 2122
Was the accessory on, but not crank on wire the pink one?
That's the one! And man, I swear I tested it during crank and it read 12V, but then I called painless and they said I was crazy.
Nashville Early Bronco that explains so much. I was having issues with my amp a while back and couldn't figure out why until I just watched this.
Haha! Yep. In the painless instructions it makes you think it's crank on... but it's not. Did you do the FiTech or just the Painless?
Nashville Early Bronco just the painless so far. That was the first thing I did, and I knew nothing about vehicles when I did it. Best learning experience I could have had. Still have a carb, but want to make the switch to the FiTech. Just not sure when it will happen. I'm struggling with priority vs. funds right now. I think floor pans are next. Debating on whether to pull the body and sandblast/paint the frame. My fear with that is that I'll be out of commission for a year, which means my boys won't be happy.
+Ryan Duwe haha! Yeah man when you pull the body prepare to not drive it for a really long time. And if funds are an issue I would not pull the body. That gets really expensive as you keep needing to buy $50 parts you break. All those 50 year old parts are brittle!
it is not good to connect any ground wires to the negative battery terminal
Will this work with a HEI distriputor?
I don’t think it does
I thought you could use a duraspark distributor with these Fitech units as well...?
I thought so too, but my duraspark wasn’t a true 2-wire distributor. Who knew
Oh hmmm, i thought you could rip out all of the advance mechanism stuff and get it to work... will have to double check forums etc.. Did you confirm it wouldn't work?
It is possible i believe, here is a thread talking about using a conversion harness if you don’t want to splice into it etc: forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/1038778-distriutor-fitech-efi.html
Interesting, I’ll check that out.
So more than a year later how is it holding up?
It’s starting to show signs of failure. Having some issues with the hand held controller right now
Is it something you'd buy again
I would probably go with the Holley sniper, but that’s the “grass is always greener” mindset talking.
yea I hear ya man
Hopefully you get your kinks worked out. thanks for the quick responses.
Thanks
Isn't that 600 a little too big for the 302
100%
When he said install EFI on my 302 in my 1979 Ford Bronco, I came......
😂😂
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco all kidding aside, great video man, it told me exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks buddy!!
Awesome! Happy to help
Hey can you put this on with the factory wiring harness?
woah! you have time to tune your carb every morning before going to work? (@ 1:46) so you're saying, EVERY DAY before going to work, you set aside time to TUNE your carb? every day? and you blame this on carbs? Are you a Fitech actor or something?
Tuning/tweaking/turning the two screws up front really not knowing what I'm doing... Let's use the word "tune" lightly
100th comment. I should be appreciated😂
You are very appreciated! Haha!
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco awesome
Hey man I'm subbed and watch your videos lately they have helped a lot I did the 600 pa on a 302 I'm in the process of setting timing control but I have a question it seems I have some "blow by" since the install but I'm no mechanic is this too much? Check my Chanel I'll upload a video please
Thanks man! Just commented on your video
It still could be bad rings but doesn't seem as likely now coolant levels are fine car was stored last winter only ran a couple short times could just be mouisture from what I'm gathering thanks!
+Troy mackeod let's hope so!
Any one wanting to buy a Fitech should think long and hard about wasting
your hard earned cash on this system. Months of drama and no support
for Fitech. Still not running!! Junk!!!
Carb fanatic? Nope. EFI hater? Not really. Disappointed with the FiTech? You bet. Not worth the money or the time required to monkey with it.
😆
Don't waste your money on fitech it's garbage ask me how I know. I'm broke down all the time because of it.
I think you like your own face much more than you should there...