My Vulcan often sees ~5600rpm and all I do is oil changes. The Vulcan is unkillable(Unless its on its own terms) mines at 344000km and has plenty of life left. I'm also putting to gether a spec sheet to build a junkyard Vulcan when mine eventually croaks
I have a Vulcan 3.0 2006 year model and I'm having a crank no start. When it will start after a dozen tries it will sound like it fires up but only goes right back off. The garages all said it is a timing issue. So idk what exactly to do. 😔
@@jeremyrainwater2175 Same problem with my 2004 Edge. Turned out to be the fuel pump. Turn the key to "on" and you should hear the fuel pump start momentarily to pressurize the fuel lines and then shut off until you start the engine. There is a fuel pump inertial switch mounted under the dash to the firewall on the passenger side. It's purpose is to trip in the case of an accident to prevent fuel flow to the engine. This switch must be manually reset by pushing down a button on the top of it.
The lease reliable engine that was in the Ranger during this time? Really ? The 3L was the most reliable V6 engine that was in those trucks. The 4.0 overhead valve was really bad for cracking heads. the 4 L single overhead. cam was really bad for breaking time chain gides.. You’re right about the 3 L having to cam sync issues,and somebody’s been a tech for 20 years. I probably changed well over 100 of those. All of the 3 L will have the Cam sync issue. As a tech for over 20 years I’ve changed well over 100 of those, while I’m sure people who have ignored the signs have blown motor for it. I have personally never seen it. Every cam sync that fails generally gives a pretty good warning. It sounds like an overly loud belt chirp and as long as you change it when they start making noise never an major issue. Generally it will get one maybe two swaps in their life as its generally an over 150,000 mile failure most of the time.Every engine has its issues and to blame a motor that was 24 years old that you have no history of for breaking a valve spring means the entire line off engines is trash is a little the hyperbolic if you asked me. PS the 3.0 with the bad heads was from 86 to 89 and never in a ranger
hey, I'm looking into buying a Ranger, my options are: a 3L V6, MT, 89k kms vs 3L V6, AT, 169k kms or a 4L V6, AT, 123k kms... I'm leaning towards the 3L MT because I've read it's the most reliable of all of them, but I'm only learning about trucks (I'm a woman), other than keeping an eye for that cam sync issue, would you think the 3L V6, MT would be the best option regardless of how they say it's a gutless engine? I plan on using it as a daily. hope you can help
@@darktoast808 out of those options that’s definitely the one I would pick. I understand that you’re dealing with an older truck so anything can happen but that’s definitely gonna be the most reliable. And definitely stick with the manual the automatics until they went to the five speed had a lot of problems.
My 2005 Ranger XLT has over 260,000 miles on it without any issues. I don't have to add oil between changes. If you want to give it a little extra get up and go, remove the baffle from the air box.
I bought a 2nd generation sable from neglectful owners. The headgasket was bad because of the constant overheating they did because they didnt take care of coolent system (filled it with hose water 🤦) but it was fine for a moment because it was only a small exhaust leak into my coolent system. But today I just checked my oil, and guess what...it was milky 😢....time for a headgasket and head change
Ive had several rangers in my life. 2 of them 3.0. The one i have now is a 3.0. No problems at all. I change parts just to make them last longer. But never had one brake down. Most of us that love rangers love the 3.0. One big thing to making an old ranger last is you should drive it like an old lady. Dont run them hard and theyll treat you good.
I have a 2002 Ranger with the 3.0 liter engine. I bought it used with 109,000 miles on it and now it has 234,000 miles on it and the engine runs just as smoothly as the day I bought it 14 years ago. Granted the engine is a little tired these days, but it's a 22 year old truck.
Sorry, but i do not agree! The 3.0 is a very reliable engine. Cam phazer IS a common issue, however it gives ample warning of impending failure. Sounds like a chirping serpentine belt. Easy fix. This dude should have purchased a NEW truck covered by a warranty! He purchased a OLD ranger!
I had issues with my 3.0 I had blown head gasket but I fixed it I shaved the head with a belt sander I cleaned all the freaking acid and freaking wire brush got the coolant problem fixed it causes the head gasket to blow at Port and Paul said damn thing and it went like a raped ape 100 for the upper end gasket kit
@@DeathStrikeVirus hey, I'm looking into buying a Ranger, my options are: a 3L V6, MT, 89k kms vs 3L V6, AT, 169k kms or a 4L V6, AT, 123k kms... I'm leaning towards the 3L MT because I've read it's the most reliable of all of them, but I'm only learning about trucks (I'm a woman), other than keeping an eye for that cam sync issue, would you think the 3L V6, MT would be the best option regardless of how they say it's a gutless engine? I plan on using it as a daily. hope you can help
@@darktoast808 I'm partial to manual anyway, but that 3L V6 MT with only 89k kms is practically new. Mine isn't gutless, but it's the flex fuel and they have bigger injectors. The 3.0 likes higher RPMs so drive it like that and you'll be fine.
I'm starting to think my mazda b300 (ranger same thing) isn't normal because it's a 2002 with 250k miles. Only thing I've ever had to change on it was a dry rotten vacuum line. Still runs like a dream with zero issues.
no that's the standard 3.0L experience. plenty of us have stories about the sheer abuse the 3.0L will shrug off. There was a guy with turbo strapped to his on a completely stock(no even a tune) and he hit 15lbs often. what killed his was it ran out of oil.
@AdamKueflef that sounds dope as hell. I tend to baby my vehicles lol. But from what I've learned. It does best at higher RPM's that I don't think I usually hit highter than like 3500 maybe.
I'm up in ontario Canada and have a 2005 with the 3.0 and the 5spd auto. So far so good 🤞. I took the box off to clean and rust proof the frame right after I bought it a year ago.
The Vulcan 3.0 has an odd engine issue in that it builds up carbon on the piston crowns.This causes it to ping in high load situations as the build-up acts to increase compression. I replaced my heads, which are prone to crack or recess the valve, cleaned the crowns and never had pinging again. Also, a big lesson is an engine flush helped dramatically. I used liquimoly flush, drained and immediately filled with regular oil and let that flush run for 10 minutes (to capture the remaining flushing chemical) and installed an new filter/oil combo. It made a huge difference in quieting the engine noises, smoothness and MPG climbed about 2.
I haven't experienced the pinging issues, but to avoid it my 3.0L only drinks 91 octane. Ive also measured a 1-2l/100km difference when it comes to highway miles.
the 3,0 vulcan is the very very best engine i have ever owned.....no timing chain to worry with owned 4 all over 200000 easy..got one now...282,000,,,two sets of spark plugs....i pay extra to get one in a new truck today....over a ecoboost...
I’m pretty sure you just got super unlucky with this thing. Having the manual 2.3/2.5 is the best and they last forever. My buddy had four all at the same time and all of them had over 250,000 miles
There’s a lemon in every good line of engines. He must have gotten one of those. The AC fan switch? Anything you use daily for 24 + years will break due to wear. Even a Toyota can have switches and relays give. The console? I’ll give him that. Not a good design. I own a 1999 Ranger 3.0 five speed. It has 270,000 and going strong. I got the manual because the automatics are slower and less durable. The AC compressor just broke a few days ago. No big deal. I have a new one on the way. It’s been a good little truck I bought for $2200! Owned it for 6 years. Now this guy is bitter and bias and I get it. We all take risks buying used cars. But take a look around while you’re driving. You’ll see old Rangers all over the place. That should be a testament to their durability. It pays to really take your time to inspect what you buy. No guarantees but… When the engine goes, I’ll buy another one because I’m not going to pay $40,000 to $70,000 for a new truck. Since you already have the fuel tank out, replace the fuel pump. It’s not that expensive and you already know that it’s a pain in the ass to take the bed off to do it when you had the chance. Motoflyteguy. I’m going to subscribe because I want to see you finish it. Good luck.
exacly agree most of the complaints are general thing that breakdown on the truck over 24+ years. My 03 had the coloum shifter issue, but its 21 years old. I also agree about replacing major components. I've become aquainted with my local ranger graveyard owner, and i can get a complete engine and trans for $1000-$1500 depending on how few miles I want. ps. as a 5 speed auto owner mines hit 344000km and has no issues the 5 speed autos seemed to fix a lot of the problems the 4 speed autos had
This guy is full of crap the 304 is one of the most reliable Motors ever made and then here he is putting all this money into this Ranger that he's saying is such a piece of crap makes no sense and the ranger itself is one of the best little trucks ever made
The top of the fuel filler neck where it attaches to the bed is often brittle and prone to leak or emit fumes when the tank is fully topped off. It's not too hard to fix but it does involve detaching the bed.
Great video bro, I learned a lot. Sometimes I think my truck is jinks-ed with all the weird shit that goes wrong with it... Now I learned it's just the shoddy way it's built. You forgot to mention the creaky front end due to crappy ball joint boots that rot off and cause the knuckles to start creaking. LOL
There was an issue with the earlier 3.0 liter engines, but Ford did fix those issues. So if you order a 3.0 liter for a 2001 and newer you will get a more reliable engine. As for the fuel lines those are a 5/16th line with both 5/16th and 3/8ths fittings, so you have to buy a 3/8th to 5/16th fitting for one line if you stick with the factory connectors. But I would recommend swapping over to 6AN to quick connect fittings, and running high pressure fuel injection line as those hard nylon lines will break if you do not buy the correct quick connect fittings.
I would HIGHLY recommend changing the timing chain set. I think mine had 220k and stopped running. The chain had stretched so bad it torched the valves and seats.
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger with the 3.0. I must have gotten a good one because the only thing that I have ever had to do is redo the brakes, oil changes, and a fan belt. I have a 130,000 Mi on this and that's all I've ever had to do. This is actually the best vehicle I've ever owned
Ive been abusing the **** out of my 3.0 and while i agree about avoiding it i would do so for a different reason. Ive never had any reliability issues nor have i EVER heard of the 3.0 being unreliable until i saw this, actually all ive heard is praise for this heing a reliable motor. I will say the power and fuel econamy are both pretty awefull. I always hear it gets the power of the 2.5 and the milage of the 4.0 but its a very reliable engine even if you abuse it
agreed on the daily abusing the F**K out of it and being dead reliable. my 03 3.0 has 344000km and I regularly take it 5000+rpm, and only do basic maintenance(oil changes, preventative stuff, etc). I have 4.10's in the rear and get a consistent 10.5l/100km on the highway sitting at 2500-3000rpm. I get 13-17l/100km around town daily driving. while it dosn't get the best mileage its still the most fuel efficient out of my families fleet.
I own a 97 with the 3.0 5sp manual and 4x4. I have owned it since new and you are dead on for all points, except my gutless 3.0 with 365,000 on it is scary with the original gaskets and water pump. I'm not crazy about the intake manifold with the throttle body incorporated into the intake and no body makes a replacement throttle cable. The rest of the items on your list is spot on feel like the engine is a freak. Good luck with you refresh. 😊
Whoa there I had my heads completely rebuilt resurfaced for $325 I can tell you everything about this motor. Bro the things you're saying you are way off base. I rebuilt mine completely 100% for less than 2,400. I need to make a video calling incorrect videos.
Always gonna have this one guy. Less than 2400 eh? I bought a reman for less than that. And you didn't get heads rebuilt for 325. Maybe you got the machining work done for that, but that's not new valves and springs.
I don't think you know what you're talking about. You talk about airplanes and then motorcycles. Maybe you don't know about trucks. Just saying... unless you are the god of everything. @MotoFlightGuy
I just bought a 97 4.0. I hope it doesn't give me problems. I don't have the time or money or knowledge to fix it. I'm helping take care of an austic neice. And the fact it's purple is really gonna piss me off. But it's all I could afford in my price range. And 5he guy that sold it to me lyed. Said there was no problems with it. Drove it home ran fine. Then a couple days later I go out and start it. And I can smell antifreeze. And there was some smoke coming off the engine. I'm hoping it's just a hose though.
Looking at the interior, I don't think this truck was very well taken care of. I have a 2001 ranger XLT with the 3.0 that I have had for over 20 years. Interior still in very good shape and with 202K miles still runs and drives good.
$2000 for overhaul with rebuilt torque converter. I've put about 1500 miles on it now and it was by the best thing I did. Shifts great and gets better fuel economy now.
I have a 2000 Ford ranger ext. cab 4x4 automatic its used for picup and deliveres of mowers and golf carts, so it pulls a trailer every day has timbren overloads on it It has 297,000 miles on it, does not use a drop of oil, i have replace the coil pack once, and just now after being ran daily by different drivers do i have a engine issue. bad valve on cylinder 5. So we will pull the heads and put new valves . guides and seals in it. 297.000 miles i love this engine so much a coup[le of years ago i bought another 2000 ford ranger ext cab 4x4 3.0 manual transmision and it now has over 220,000 miles on . The 3.0 is a great engine the only fault i have with the trucks is the frame rust, which is a Ranger issue. Other then that i have not a single issue with these trucks, and i totally disagree with you about that motor.
3.0 is the best engine they put into a ranger. that does not mean the 3.0 is a good engine. the cam synchro taking out the oil pump is what did mine in. if I had known what the slight inconsistent ticking noise was I would've fixed it but I thought it could've been anything at the time.
I have a 2001 Ranger with the 3.0L and it has 230,863 miles on the Original engine! The transmission on the other hand is CRAP!!! I've put a shift kit in it but, it still needs rebuilt.
Hmmmm, I have the 4.0, and it has had issues. I've always heard the 3.0 is better. Dunno.. but I've not had most of your "common" issues. I've had others. 😆
I've never had problems with pulling the fuel lines on these if you have the right tool. I just don't think this guy knows anything about what he's doing with cars or trucks for that matter. Stick to your airplanes buddy! There's a reason that there is a following for the Rangers and that's because they are pretty much the most bulletproof little truck you can get. I've had three with the 3.0 and I've never had any issues. As a matter of fact I've made money selling them off because people give me mad money for them. Probably the most reliable honest little truck you can get. Hence the cult for them.
This 130,000 me Ranger with the 3.0 l has been more reliable any Toyota Camry that I've owned. That's saying a lot. Yes I will put the Ford Ranger as a better and more reliable vehicle than a Toyota Camry
The 3.0 vulcan is notoriously reliable. Some say its as durable as the inline 6 300
My Vulcan often sees ~5600rpm and all I do is oil changes. The Vulcan is unkillable(Unless its on its own terms) mines at 344000km and has plenty of life left. I'm also putting to gether a spec sheet to build a junkyard Vulcan when mine eventually croaks
I have a Vulcan 3.0 2006 year model and I'm having a crank no start. When it will start after a dozen tries it will sound like it fires up but only goes right back off. The garages all said it is a timing issue. So idk what exactly to do. 😔
@jeremyrainwater2175 check your timing chain
@@jeremyrainwater2175 Same problem with my 2004 Edge. Turned out to be the fuel pump. Turn the key to "on" and you should hear the fuel pump start momentarily to pressurize the fuel lines and then shut off until you start the engine. There is a fuel pump inertial switch mounted under the dash to the firewall on the passenger side. It's purpose is to trip in the case of an accident to prevent fuel flow to the engine. This switch must be manually reset by pushing down a button on the top of it.
The lease reliable engine that was in the Ranger during this time? Really ? The 3L was the most reliable V6 engine that was in those trucks. The 4.0 overhead valve was really bad for cracking heads. the 4 L single overhead. cam was really bad for breaking time chain gides.. You’re right about the 3 L having to cam sync issues,and somebody’s been a tech for 20 years. I probably changed well over 100 of those. All of the 3 L will have the Cam sync issue. As a tech for over 20 years I’ve changed well over 100 of those, while I’m sure people who have ignored the signs have blown motor for it. I have personally never seen it. Every cam sync that fails generally gives a pretty good warning. It sounds like an overly loud belt chirp and as long as you change it when they start making noise never an major issue. Generally it will get one maybe two swaps in their life as its generally an over 150,000 mile failure most of the time.Every engine has its issues and to blame a motor that was 24 years old that you have no history of for breaking a valve spring means the entire line off engines is trash is a little the hyperbolic if you asked me.
PS the 3.0 with the bad heads was from 86 to 89 and never in a ranger
hey, I'm looking into buying a Ranger, my options are: a 3L V6, MT, 89k kms vs 3L V6, AT, 169k kms or a 4L V6, AT, 123k kms... I'm leaning towards the 3L MT because I've read it's the most reliable of all of them, but I'm only learning about trucks (I'm a woman), other than keeping an eye for that cam sync issue, would you think the 3L V6, MT would be the best option regardless of how they say it's a gutless engine? I plan on using it as a daily. hope you can help
@@darktoast808 out of those options that’s definitely the one I would pick. I understand that you’re dealing with an older truck so anything can happen but that’s definitely gonna be the most reliable. And definitely stick with the manual the automatics until they went to the five speed had a lot of problems.
My 2005 Ranger XLT has over 260,000 miles on it without any issues. I don't have to add oil between changes. If you want to give it a little extra get up and go, remove the baffle from the air box.
one of the most reliable engines. probably most reliable of the options. just bc it happened to u doesnt make it "most common".
I bought a 2nd generation sable from neglectful owners. The headgasket was bad because of the constant overheating they did because they didnt take care of coolent system (filled it with hose water 🤦) but it was fine for a moment because it was only a small exhaust leak into my coolent system. But today I just checked my oil, and guess what...it was milky 😢....time for a headgasket and head change
Ive had several rangers in my life. 2 of them 3.0. The one i have now is a 3.0. No problems at all. I change parts just to make them last longer. But never had one brake down. Most of us that love rangers love the 3.0. One big thing to making an old ranger last is you should drive it like an old lady. Dont run them hard and theyll treat you good.
Great advice 👍
How did it get 400k miles with this engine that's apparently no good
I have a 2002 Ranger with the 3.0 liter engine. I bought it used with 109,000 miles on it and now it has 234,000 miles on it and the engine runs just as smoothly as the day I bought it 14 years ago. Granted the engine is a little tired these days, but it's a 22 year old truck.
Sorry, but i do not agree! The 3.0 is a very reliable engine. Cam phazer IS a common issue, however it gives ample warning of impending failure. Sounds like a chirping serpentine belt. Easy fix. This dude should have purchased a NEW truck covered by a warranty! He purchased a OLD ranger!
the 3.0 is literally the best of the three.
Viewers, don't listen to this guy. This is a very reliable engine, much more so than the 4.0.
I had issues with my 3.0 I had blown head gasket but I fixed it I shaved the head with a belt sander I cleaned all the freaking acid and freaking wire brush got the coolant problem fixed it causes the head gasket to blow at Port and Paul said damn thing and it went like a raped ape 100 for the upper end gasket kit
@@Brian-jz1pi mine has about 100k miles of pizza and door dash delivery. Runs like a bear.
@@DeathStrikeVirus hey, I'm looking into buying a Ranger, my options are: a 3L V6, MT, 89k kms vs 3L V6, AT, 169k kms or a 4L V6, AT, 123k kms... I'm leaning towards the 3L MT because I've read it's the most reliable of all of them, but I'm only learning about trucks (I'm a woman), other than keeping an eye for that cam sync issue, would you think the 3L V6, MT would be the best option regardless of how they say it's a gutless engine? I plan on using it as a daily. hope you can help
@@darktoast808 I'm partial to manual anyway, but that 3L V6 MT with only 89k kms is practically new. Mine isn't gutless, but it's the flex fuel and they have bigger injectors. The 3.0 likes higher RPMs so drive it like that and you'll be fine.
@@Brian-jz1pi some earlier years did have the head lift issue causing the gaskets to go, but the 2000 refresh fixed it.
I'm starting to think my mazda b300 (ranger same thing) isn't normal because it's a 2002 with 250k miles. Only thing I've ever had to change on it was a dry rotten vacuum line. Still runs like a dream with zero issues.
no that's the standard 3.0L experience. plenty of us have stories about the sheer abuse the 3.0L will shrug off. There was a guy with turbo strapped to his on a completely stock(no even a tune) and he hit 15lbs often. what killed his was it ran out of oil.
@AdamKueflef that sounds dope as hell. I tend to baby my vehicles lol. But from what I've learned. It does best at higher RPM's that I don't think I usually hit highter than like 3500 maybe.
@@germanchavez8204 your to nice to it. It becomes a completely different engine after 3k
@AdamKueflef so I've heard. That they run best after 3700 rpm. Drive it like a rented mule, as they say.
I'm up in ontario Canada and have a 2005 with the 3.0 and the 5spd auto. So far so good 🤞. I took the box off to clean and rust proof the frame right after I bought it a year ago.
what did you use to rust proof it? looking to buy one myself in BC, and I know we don't get real snow here, but would still be good to know!
@@darktoast808 phosphoric acid
@@donnicholson3170 i need to rust proof my Alberta truck. any recommendation on what brand to go with?
@@AdamKueflefany brand of phosphoric acid. It ain't cheap but it does the job. Once treated I fluid film over it.
The Vulcan 3.0 has an odd engine issue in that it builds up carbon on the piston crowns.This causes it to ping in high load situations as the build-up acts to increase compression.
I replaced my heads, which are prone to crack or recess the valve, cleaned the crowns and never had pinging again.
Also, a big lesson is an engine flush helped dramatically. I used liquimoly flush, drained and immediately filled with regular oil and let that flush run for 10 minutes (to capture the remaining flushing chemical) and installed an new filter/oil combo.
It made a huge difference in quieting the engine noises, smoothness and MPG climbed about 2.
I haven't experienced the pinging issues, but to avoid it my 3.0L only drinks 91 octane. Ive also measured a 1-2l/100km difference when it comes to highway miles.
i got a 2000 3.0 got 215k miles no problems just the regular needed new wires spark plugs and 02 censors
the 3,0 vulcan is the very very best engine i have ever owned.....no timing chain to worry with owned 4 all over 200000 easy..got one now...282,000,,,two sets of spark plugs....i pay extra to get one in a new truck today....over a ecoboost...
These are the MOST reliable engines.
Well my 3.0 is getting beat and used and abused! Regular oil changes and spark plugs and it's good!
I’m pretty sure you just got super unlucky with this thing. Having the manual 2.3/2.5 is the best and they last forever. My buddy had four all at the same time and all of them had over 250,000 miles
There’s a lemon in every good line of engines. He must have gotten one of those. The AC fan switch? Anything you use daily for 24 + years will break due to wear. Even a Toyota can have switches and relays give. The console? I’ll give him that. Not a good design. I own a 1999 Ranger 3.0 five speed. It has 270,000 and going strong. I got the manual because the automatics are slower and less durable. The AC compressor just broke a few days ago. No big deal. I have a new one on the way. It’s been a good little truck I bought for $2200! Owned it for 6 years. Now this guy is bitter and bias and I get it. We all take risks buying used cars. But take a look around while you’re driving. You’ll see old Rangers all over the place. That should be a testament to their durability. It pays to really take your time to inspect what you buy. No guarantees but…
When the engine goes, I’ll buy another one because I’m not going to pay $40,000 to $70,000 for a new truck.
Since you already have the fuel tank out, replace the fuel pump. It’s not that expensive and you already know that it’s a pain in the ass to take the bed off to do it when you had the chance. Motoflyteguy. I’m going to subscribe because I want to see you finish it. Good luck.
exacly agree most of the complaints are general thing that breakdown on the truck over 24+ years. My 03 had the coloum shifter issue, but its 21 years old. I also agree about replacing major components. I've become aquainted with my local ranger graveyard owner, and i can get a complete engine and trans for $1000-$1500 depending on how few miles I want.
ps. as a 5 speed auto owner mines hit 344000km and has no issues the 5 speed autos seemed to fix a lot of the problems the 4 speed autos had
This guy is full of crap the 304 is one of the most reliable Motors ever made and then here he is putting all this money into this Ranger that he's saying is such a piece of crap makes no sense and the ranger itself is one of the best little trucks ever made
@@patricklutz647 I don't recall saying the Ranger trucks are junk in this video. I'm pointing out all of the issues they have.
The top of the fuel filler neck where it attaches to the bed is often brittle and prone to leak or emit fumes when the tank is fully topped off. It's not too hard to fix but it does involve detaching the bed.
@@4estral yeah I've replaced the filler neck assembly since this video due to that lol
Great video bro, I learned a lot. Sometimes I think my truck is jinks-ed with all the weird shit that goes wrong with it... Now I learned it's just the shoddy way it's built. You forgot to mention the creaky front end due to crappy ball joint boots that rot off and cause the knuckles to start creaking. LOL
There was an issue with the earlier 3.0 liter engines, but Ford did fix those issues. So if you order a 3.0 liter for a 2001 and newer you will get a more reliable engine. As for the fuel lines those are a 5/16th line with both 5/16th and 3/8ths fittings, so you have to buy a 3/8th to 5/16th fitting for one line if you stick with the factory connectors. But I would recommend swapping over to 6AN to quick connect fittings, and running high pressure fuel injection line as those hard nylon lines will break if you do not buy the correct quick connect fittings.
Ive thought about doing some fuel upgrades to my 03 thanks for the advice!
Mine has 209k and runs good. Am i doomed😮
I would HIGHLY recommend changing the timing chain set. I think mine had 220k and stopped running. The chain had stretched so bad it torched the valves and seats.
Hey, you ever figure out what to replace those trim cam.
@@sonjiaj1156 I got cheap ones on Amazon and they are junk and leaking. Currently trying to figure out a solution
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger with the 3.0. I must have gotten a good one because the only thing that I have ever had to do is redo the brakes, oil changes, and a fan belt. I have a 130,000 Mi on this and that's all I've ever had to do. This is actually the best vehicle I've ever owned
Ive been abusing the **** out of my 3.0 and while i agree about avoiding it i would do so for a different reason. Ive never had any reliability issues nor have i EVER heard of the 3.0 being unreliable until i saw this, actually all ive heard is praise for this heing a reliable motor. I will say the power and fuel econamy are both pretty awefull. I always hear it gets the power of the 2.5 and the milage of the 4.0 but its a very reliable engine even if you abuse it
agreed on the daily abusing the F**K out of it and being dead reliable. my 03 3.0 has 344000km and I regularly take it 5000+rpm, and only do basic maintenance(oil changes, preventative stuff, etc). I have 4.10's in the rear and get a consistent 10.5l/100km on the highway sitting at 2500-3000rpm. I get 13-17l/100km around town daily driving. while it dosn't get the best mileage its still the most fuel efficient out of my families fleet.
I own a 97 with the 3.0 5sp manual and 4x4. I have owned it since new and you are dead on for all points, except my gutless 3.0 with 365,000 on it is scary with the original gaskets and water pump. I'm not crazy about the intake manifold with the throttle body incorporated into the intake and no body makes a replacement throttle cable.
The rest of the items on your list is spot on feel like the engine is a freak.
Good luck with you refresh. 😊
swapping to a composite upper intake of 2000+ gets you better flow and replaceable throttle body(plus option to 60mm TB swap)
2002 ranger 3.0l , 5spd , 309,000 mi, dude stick to air planes and motorcycles.
Gee wiz, only 24 years old and it has problems....... The problem with new cars is that they don't stay new very long. Go Figure...
I'm happy with my 1999 Ford ranger with the 3.0 and it's past 246000 miles
Just curious why you didn't V8 swap it?
More work, more expense, and this is just a commuter truck
I have a 07 ranger with a 3L
Has 250000 miles on it. Runs good kind a weak. But if it goes out i do a 302 swap or an ls swap
my ranger has 411000 miles just piad 2000 to have the head gasket and heads redone and now the manifolds are leaking
Whoa there I had my heads completely rebuilt resurfaced for $325 I can tell you everything about this motor. Bro the things you're saying you are way off base. I rebuilt mine completely 100% for less than 2,400. I need to make a video calling incorrect videos.
Always gonna have this one guy. Less than 2400 eh? I bought a reman for less than that. And you didn't get heads rebuilt for 325. Maybe you got the machining work done for that, but that's not new valves and springs.
I don't think you know what you're talking about. You talk about airplanes and then motorcycles. Maybe you don't know about trucks. Just saying... unless you are the god of everything. @MotoFlightGuy
I just bought a 97 4.0. I hope it doesn't give me problems. I don't have the time or money or knowledge to fix it. I'm helping take care of an austic neice. And the fact it's purple is really gonna piss me off. But it's all I could afford in my price range. And 5he guy that sold it to me lyed. Said there was no problems with it. Drove it home ran fine. Then a couple days later I go out and start it. And I can smell antifreeze. And there was some smoke coming off the engine. I'm hoping it's just a hose though.
Where did you get the remanned engine?
I ordered it through a salvage yard company that also deals with suppliers for reman engines. The Y-Yard in Effingham, IL
I got mine from PowerTorque through O'Reilly, 2200. Stay away from the 5.4 triton from them
Looking at the interior, I don't think this truck was very well taken care of. I have a 2001 ranger XLT with the 3.0 that I have had for over 20 years. Interior still in very good shape and with 202K miles still runs and drives good.
Cost for trans overhaul?
$2000 for overhaul with rebuilt torque converter. I've put about 1500 miles on it now and it was by the best thing I did. Shifts great and gets better fuel economy now.
Ssy bro did the tailwind sell yet?
Not yet
I have a 2000 Ford ranger ext. cab 4x4 automatic its used for picup and deliveres of mowers and golf carts, so it pulls a trailer every day has timbren overloads on it It has 297,000 miles on it, does not use a drop of oil, i have replace the coil pack once, and just now after being ran daily by different drivers do i have a engine issue. bad valve on cylinder 5. So we will pull the heads and put new valves . guides and seals in it. 297.000 miles i love this engine so much a coup[le of years ago i bought another 2000 ford ranger ext cab 4x4 3.0 manual transmision and it now has over 220,000 miles on . The 3.0 is a great engine the only fault i have with the trucks is the frame rust, which is a Ranger issue. Other then that i have not a single issue with these trucks, and i totally disagree with you about that motor.
3.0 is the best engine they put into a ranger. that does not mean the 3.0 is a good engine. the cam synchro taking out the oil pump is what did mine in. if I had known what the slight inconsistent ticking noise was I would've fixed it but I thought it could've been anything at the time.
I have a 2001 Ranger with the 3.0L and it has 230,863 miles on the Original engine! The transmission on the other hand is CRAP!!! I've put a shift kit in it but, it still needs rebuilt.
The fuel line connecters are one of those push not pull things bud
Great video. With your budget you had better drive it forever.
Hmmmm, I have the 4.0, and it has had issues. I've always heard the 3.0 is better. Dunno.. but I've not had most of your "common" issues. I've had others. 😆
We want Thorp content! That is all…
Don't forget the very common timing cover coolant leak issue on the 3.0 Vulcan.
I herd the 4.0 wa yhr worst one thats why i got the 3.0. My 2.3 is way faster lol
i bet this guys' wife complains to her boyfriend about her husband's constant bitching.
Try again
Phenomenal truck and motor but things can happen with closing in on 300k miles so these rants can be helpful nonetheless
Lol, 3.0 is extremely reliable. I have 320k. Change your oil.
@@levi3633 changing oil has zero effect on valve springs or head gaskets.
I have a 2000 Ranger with 167k and it runs great !
Production numbers say 👍👍👍
I've never had problems with pulling the fuel lines on these if you have the right tool. I just don't think this guy knows anything about what he's doing with cars or trucks for that matter. Stick to your airplanes buddy! There's a reason that there is a following for the Rangers and that's because they are pretty much the most bulletproof little truck you can get. I've had three with the 3.0 and I've never had any issues. As a matter of fact I've made money selling them off because people give me mad money for them. Probably the most reliable honest little truck you can get. Hence the cult for them.
This 130,000 me Ranger with the 3.0 l has been more reliable any Toyota Camry that I've owned. That's saying a lot. Yes I will put the Ford Ranger as a better and more reliable vehicle than a Toyota Camry
Bro we don't feed trolls over here