I agree, the tape was the first problem. Should have been shrink tube, worst case... tape the connections then put Shrink over the whole group, but should have been shrink throughout. And leaving all the wires hanging in the back of the radio to bounce around, should have all been Zipped to frame and wrapped with cloth tape to minimize vibration..... no Special school needed, it's common sense installation 101
Honestly, If i paid for this install I'd be upset with the quality of work. Electrical tape on the harness? No closed cell around components? Buddy invest in some heat shrink at least. Throw some deadening material in the jeep enclosures. These are all super cheap things to do that ensure a quality install and what customers expect when they take their vehicles to "Pros"!
I put in a alpine ILX-107 in a wrangler, those plastic radio brackets are the most ill fitting brackets I've ever seen. I had to do a lot of shaving to get it to sit level in the dash.
Same reason why when you go to jiffy lube there's still a quart of oil left in the pan while they are putting the plug back on,these are commercial places that do this for a living and will do it adequately but will never have that personal touch,they dont have time,volume pays the bills. i recently did a install on my car,took me 3 days, if you had come into my garage you woulda thought i was doing surgery on a newborn,lol, a tiny piece of tesa here,a drop of solder over there,touch of paint on a microscopic rust spot,the works.
That is a lengthy install! We do not have a video showing the process, but we have made a MasterSheet for your Wrangler that outlines the process with step-by-step instructions including pictures to help illustrate the process. We include the MasterSheet free with the purchase of gear for your vehicle, but also can sell it if that is all you need. Here is the link to our page for ordering the MasterSheet: www.crutchfield.com/I-rYALc227/p_264MASTER/item.html
Going to be doing this soon to my 2011 JK, does anyone know what size tweeter fits in that factory housing, preferably without having to grind or modify the tweeter?
The harness pictured is the Metra 71-050 speaker harness for select 1999-up Chrysler vehicles: bit.ly/2i1O1QT The "module" you're referring to is the crossover that's included with the Polk Audio DB6501 speakers. For more information on that, feel free to reach out to a product Advisor via the "ContactUs" link on the Crutchfield site. Hope that helps. --Crutchfield
I just installed an aftermarket 10.1 tablet. it came with the can-bus harness that retained the steering wheel controls and the factory alpine sysre. sub included. however the sound mid range and up sound excellent. my sub is almost half or more less punchy... would this be due to a cheap can bus harness or just the fact it was a tablet v factory unit . . tablet out put is 4x42w
It appears you have the 2013 Jeep Wrangler that came with the Alpine audio system. There is a way to retain the fade ability. The new radio must be one that is built to work with the iDatalink ADS-MRR radio installation modules and be installed with that module. The iDatalink compatible radios can be found using this link: www.crutchfield.com/I-rYALc227/g_300/All-Car-Stereos.html?tp=5684&fa=1#&nvpair=AG_General_Features|FFiDatalink_Port
I just cant find a video to explain how the crossover input is connected to amp or car radio since amp and radio usually have rca output right? And the crossover takes a "stripped" cable input?
If you are using an active crossover it will go in-line between the RCA output of your radio and the RCA inputs of your amp. If you are using a passive crossover they will go in-line with the speaker wire and take speaker level inputs.
I've got the Rockford Fosgate 1-165-s. It came with 2 crossovers. I have never used those before. I do not have an aftermarket amp. Just the stock amp that came with the 2013 JKU. Do I need to use the crossovers? How do I hook them up without an amp?
The crossovers should still be used with the drivers (the woofers and tweeters). We have a video that may help give you ideas on how to go about installing all the parts: www.crutchfield.com/I-rYALc227/learn/video-how-to-install-component-speakers.html Essentially, if your Jeep came without the factory Alpine audio system, then your goal is to wire the crossover to the amp channel in the radio. If your Jeep cam with the stock Alpine audio system, then you will need a lot of gear to complete the install including a new amp and amp installation parts
The external crossovers are needed to ensure that the proper frequencies above a fixed point go to the tweeters, and those below go to the woofers. Using your factory system's crossover would likely send the wrong frequency range to your new tweeters; which degrades their performance and can cause damage over time. For more details or to discuss further, please feel free to contact an Advisor on the Crutchfield website: www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc000/Support/Chat.aspx Thanks, Crutchfield
@@crutchfield So, 2 questions...I recently bought a pair of Kicker coaxials KSC650 100w rms from Crutchfield, to replace my stock soundbar speakers and use with the stock stereo ....Is it NECESSARY to disconnect the stock tweeter since I'm using coaxials? Also, after installing these once, I was dissatisfied with the sound, as the bass sounded overbearing and too muddy (even when backed way down on the unit). Could this be because the stock head unit isn't pushing enough wattage to power these speakers optimally, or do I need to isolate the sound? Or possibly both? Thanks, man!
Hi Garrett, thanks again for your order! The Kicker 47KSC6504s do sound best with an aftermarket amp for power. You can use them with or without the factory tweeter depending on what sounds best to you. If you'd like help choosing an amp or anything further, please let us know.
The integration harnesses we offer for connecting an aftermarket stereo to the stock wiring in the Jeep provide the 12volt switched power for the new stereo.For additional assistance and personalized recommendations, feel free to contact us directly: bit.ly/2jBGHPp Hope that helps!--Crutchfield
Why drill another hole to run tweeter wire & not through the already existing grommet? Also, wouldn't mounting x-over inside the speaker pod cause potential problems like vibration of bass causing plastic cover to rattle, solder of components & screws on x-over to loosen over time & have connection issues? At least if you crimped a spade on wire it wouldn't be so bad, not to mention taking up displacement? There's way better solutions to tweeter install than grinding & just shoving it inside factory grill mount...God forbid there's issues w/ component set and have to return for warranty, what would you tell a consumer that tried sending back a mutilated tweet that they took to a grinder? smh...Most tweets in component sets, including those Polks, allow you to swivel tweet within the bezel it comes with in order to aim it to your liking & for imaging purposes, what this guy did was just lazy. It's attention to details like that which separate top tier installers to "I know a guy, that knows a guy...driveway install". I expected better from Crutchfield.
I understand what you mean about the tweeter being ground down. How would you go about mounting that in the same spot? I'm asking because I'm about to start this weekend on upgrading my speakers.
what is that yellow tool that you use on the screwdriver to remove the speaker what is it called and what brand is it can I order one of those on your website
The tool you're referring to is an offset bit screwdriver used in conjunction with a low-speed power drill. You can purchase that from the Crutchfield website in this Screwdriver SPK4040 kit: www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc000/p_180SPK4040/Skewdriver-SPK4040.html?tp=990 Hope that helps! --Crutchfield
A crossover is used to separate the high and low frequencies to send to the the appropriate speakers. Here is an article that goes more in-depth on how it does that and the different types of crossovers bit.ly/2T9EDji. If you have further questions about what is best for your needs you can connect with one of our Product Advisors here: bit.ly/2DGSzu3
The Polk DB component speakers come with a 1" tweeter.For additional assistance and personalized recommendations, feel free to contact us directly: bit.ly/2jBGHPp Hope that helps!--Crutchfield
Every video I see shows everything; but at no point answers my question... WHAT SIZE SPEAKERS GO IN THE MOUNT? Crutchfield.com says 5 1/4 fit, 6 inch fit, 6 1/2 fit. Which is it. I've sat through tons of these videos and the most basic information simply isn't mentioned. Infuriating.
Both sizes fit. The factory size is closer to 6 1/2" but we include a mounting bracket that would allow you to put a smaller, 5 1/4" in the same opening if you want. The best way to see what speakers fit your vehicle and get personalized advice would be to connect with one of our Product Advisors via phone, chat or email. You can reach them here: bit.ly/2DGSzu3
If I have a head unit with RCA outputs and use those to the amp and then run new speaker wires instead of using the factory wiring...do I need to disconnect the speaker wire leads from the radio harness and cap them off? Or do you leave them attached? I want to run new speaker wire but not sure what to do with the speaker wires on the harness. Thanks.
If you will not be powering any speakers off the aftermarket stereo, there's no need to connect the factory speaker wires to the aftermarket stereo's harness. If they are already connected, there's no need to disconnect them as long as the opposite ends terminate in a factory speaker plug that keeps the positive and negative ends from contacting each other. For additional assistance and personalized recommendations, feel free to contact us directly: bit.ly/2jBGHPp Hope that helps.--Crutchfield
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You make it look so fast and easy. I'm doing a HU, speaker, and sub install tomorrow. Probably gonna take me into Friday...
Great installer I wish my local sound shops were as professional as Crutchfield.......thumbs up
i wouldent trust my car with those doggy fucks everything he did was wrong
+krazywog u go to special school?
I agree, the tape was the first problem. Should have been shrink tube, worst case... tape the connections then put Shrink over the whole group, but should have been shrink throughout. And leaving all the wires hanging in the back of the radio to bounce around, should have all been Zipped to frame and wrapped with cloth tape to minimize vibration..... no Special school needed, it's common sense installation 101
Amazing walk through bro well done
Why don't you use heat shrink tubing instead of electrical tape? It would just look more professional.
I was just going to say that same thing
Honestly, If i paid for this install I'd be upset with the quality of work. Electrical tape on the harness? No closed cell around components? Buddy invest in some heat shrink at least. Throw some deadening material in the jeep enclosures. These are all super cheap things to do that ensure a quality install and what customers expect when they take their vehicles to "Pros"!
I put in a alpine ILX-107 in a wrangler, those plastic radio brackets are the most ill fitting brackets I've ever seen. I had to do a lot of shaving to get it to sit level in the dash.
Super useful video, thank you. Can you list the speakers you installed please.
Why are head units mostly empty space? You'd think companies would put bigger amps in them maybe?
Sealed box, why didn't you add some poly a sound deadner?
Not saying that you guys don’t do good work but I do my own installs and they are cleaner than these are...
Heatshring, Tesa tape...
Same reason why when you go to jiffy lube there's still a quart of oil left in the pan while they are putting the plug back on,these are commercial places that do this for a living and will do it adequately but will never have that personal touch,they dont have time,volume pays the bills. i recently did a install on my car,took me 3 days, if you had come into my garage you woulda thought i was doing surgery on a newborn,lol, a tiny piece of tesa here,a drop of solder over there,touch of paint on a microscopic rust spot,the works.
great job
Join the new millennium and buy a damn impact driver.
I was hoping to see the driver's side speaker removal and re-install, that's the hard one. Do you have a link to that?
What year is your Jeep?
@@crutchfield it’s a 2013 JK 2 door with the Alpine system.
That is a lengthy install! We do not have a video showing the process, but we have made a MasterSheet for your Wrangler that outlines the process with step-by-step instructions including pictures to help illustrate the process. We include the MasterSheet free with the purchase of gear for your vehicle, but also can sell it if that is all you need. Here is the link to our page for ordering the MasterSheet:
www.crutchfield.com/I-rYALc227/p_264MASTER/item.html
Going to be doing this soon to my 2011 JK, does anyone know what size tweeter fits in that factory housing, preferably without having to grind or modify the tweeter?
There's no direct fit for the factory tweeters; but you should be able to replace them if you make your own brackets. Would you like help choosing?
Great video how to...
So your gonna need another crossover for the driver side?
what type of module and speaker wire harness you used ?
The harness pictured is the Metra 71-050 speaker harness for select 1999-up Chrysler vehicles: bit.ly/2i1O1QT
The "module" you're referring to is the crossover that's included with the Polk Audio DB6501 speakers. For more information on that, feel free to reach out to a product Advisor via the "ContactUs" link on the Crutchfield site.
Hope that helps.
--Crutchfield
I just installed an aftermarket 10.1 tablet. it came with the can-bus harness that retained the steering wheel controls and the factory alpine sysre. sub included. however the sound mid range and up sound excellent. my sub is almost half or more less punchy... would this be due to a cheap can bus harness or just the fact it was a tablet v factory unit . . tablet out put is 4x42w
I absolutely hate the fact that you lose fader option. Is there a way around this? can you make your own connect radio to rear speakers?
It appears you have the 2013 Jeep Wrangler that came with the Alpine audio system. There is a way to retain the fade ability. The new radio must be one that is built to work with the iDatalink ADS-MRR radio installation modules and be installed with that module. The iDatalink compatible radios can be found using this link:
www.crutchfield.com/I-rYALc227/g_300/All-Car-Stereos.html?tp=5684&fa=1#&nvpair=AG_General_Features|FFiDatalink_Port
I just cant find a video to explain how the crossover input is connected to amp or car radio since amp and radio usually have rca output right? And the crossover takes a "stripped" cable input?
If you are using an active crossover it will go in-line between the RCA output of your radio and the RCA inputs of your amp.
If you are using a passive crossover they will go in-line with the speaker wire and take speaker level inputs.
I've got the Rockford Fosgate 1-165-s. It came with 2 crossovers. I have never used those before. I do not have an aftermarket amp. Just the stock amp that came with the 2013 JKU. Do I need to use the crossovers? How do I hook them up without an amp?
The crossovers should still be used with the drivers (the woofers and tweeters). We have a video that may help give you ideas on how to go about installing all the parts:
www.crutchfield.com/I-rYALc227/learn/video-how-to-install-component-speakers.html
Essentially, if your Jeep came without the factory Alpine audio system, then your goal is to wire the crossover to the amp channel in the radio. If your Jeep cam with the stock Alpine audio system, then you will need a lot of gear to complete the install including a new amp and amp installation parts
Would there had been a problem simply attaching the new tweeter using existing wiring? Why running it to the crossover?
The external crossovers are needed to ensure that the proper frequencies above a fixed point go to the tweeters, and those below go to the woofers. Using your factory system's crossover would likely send the wrong frequency range to your new tweeters; which degrades their performance and can cause damage over time.
For more details or to discuss further, please feel free to contact an Advisor on the Crutchfield website: www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc000/Support/Chat.aspx
Thanks,
Crutchfield
Whats the name of snobs playing at the end
Great video! Do you happen to know what the wpc and impedence load is on those stock OEM head units? Thanks!
Thanks, Garrett. We do not have power specs for factory speakers. Impedance does vary as well. What are you hoping to install specifically?
@@crutchfield So, 2 questions...I recently bought a pair of Kicker coaxials KSC650 100w rms from Crutchfield, to replace my stock soundbar speakers and use with the stock stereo ....Is it NECESSARY to disconnect the stock tweeter since I'm using coaxials? Also, after installing these once, I was dissatisfied with the sound, as the bass sounded overbearing and too muddy (even when backed way down on the unit). Could this be because the stock head unit isn't pushing enough wattage to power these speakers optimally, or do I need to isolate the sound? Or possibly both? Thanks, man!
.. sorry, this is for a '15 Wrangler:)
Hi Garrett, thanks again for your order! The Kicker 47KSC6504s do sound best with an aftermarket amp for power. You can use them with or without the factory tweeter depending on what sounds best to you. If you'd like help choosing an amp or anything further, please let us know.
@@crutchfield thank you!
Hi! where did you get the acc. 12v on the jeep?
The integration harnesses we offer for connecting an aftermarket stereo to the stock wiring in the Jeep provide the 12volt switched power for the new stereo.For additional assistance and personalized recommendations, feel free to contact us directly: bit.ly/2jBGHPp Hope that helps!--Crutchfield
Why drill another hole to run tweeter wire & not through the already existing grommet? Also, wouldn't mounting x-over inside the speaker pod cause potential problems like vibration of bass causing plastic cover to rattle, solder of components & screws on x-over to loosen over time & have connection issues? At least if you crimped a spade on wire it wouldn't be so bad, not to mention taking up displacement? There's way better solutions to tweeter install than grinding & just shoving it inside factory grill mount...God forbid there's issues w/ component set and have to return for warranty, what would you tell a consumer that tried sending back a mutilated tweet that they took to a grinder? smh...Most tweets in component sets, including those Polks, allow you to swivel tweet within the bezel it comes with in order to aim it to your liking & for imaging purposes, what this guy did was just lazy. It's attention to details like that which separate top tier installers to "I know a guy, that knows a guy...driveway install". I expected better from Crutchfield.
I understand what you mean about the tweeter being ground down. How would you go about mounting that in the same spot? I'm asking because I'm about to start this weekend on upgrading my speakers.
what is that yellow tool that you use on the screwdriver to remove the speaker what is it called and what brand is it can I order one of those on your website
The tool you're referring to is an offset bit screwdriver used in conjunction with a low-speed power drill. You can purchase that from the Crutchfield website in this Screwdriver SPK4040 kit: www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc000/p_180SPK4040/Skewdriver-SPK4040.html?tp=990
Hope that helps!
--Crutchfield
What about the wire puller do you sell that to on the website
The Wire Worm? Yes: www.crutchfield.com/I-rYTVc180/p_042DM4533/Pro-Fit-Wire-Worm.html?tp=990 Hope that helps!--Crutchfield
Where can I get an offset screwdriver attachment?
carson doran Home Depot, Lowe's or Amazon.
What is a crossover used for?
A crossover is used to separate the high and low frequencies to send to the the appropriate speakers. Here is an article that goes more in-depth on how it does that and the different types of crossovers bit.ly/2T9EDji. If you have further questions about what is best for your needs you can connect with one of our Product Advisors here: bit.ly/2DGSzu3
what size tweeter is that?
The Polk DB component speakers come with a 1" tweeter.For additional assistance and personalized recommendations, feel free to contact us directly: bit.ly/2jBGHPp Hope that helps!--Crutchfield
Every video I see shows everything; but at no point answers my question... WHAT SIZE SPEAKERS GO IN THE MOUNT? Crutchfield.com says 5 1/4 fit, 6 inch fit, 6 1/2 fit. Which is it. I've sat through tons of these videos and the most basic information simply isn't mentioned. Infuriating.
Both sizes fit. The factory size is closer to 6 1/2" but we include a mounting bracket that would allow you to put a smaller, 5 1/4" in the same opening if you want. The best way to see what speakers fit your vehicle and get personalized advice would be to connect with one of our Product Advisors via phone, chat or email. You can reach them here: bit.ly/2DGSzu3
i`m sorry head unit wire harness
The head unit wiring harness featured in the video is this PAC RP4-CH11 radio replacement interface: bit.ly/2hUlT2l
Hope that helps!
--Crutchfield
Man its weird looking at a left hand drive JK
its weird driving on the right side of the road ; P
i am highly disappointed in Crutchfield now... always use water proof connectors or heat shrink... never tape a soldered connection
Looooooser
Haha...totally bullshitting your customers. Why didn't you do the drivers side speakers?
Theyre harder to do lol
Wow, this was seriously boring!
What did you expect? It's a speaker install not a boxing match lol
If I have a head unit with RCA outputs and use those to the amp and then run new speaker wires instead of using the factory wiring...do I need to disconnect the speaker wire leads from the radio harness and cap them off? Or do you leave them attached? I want to run new speaker wire but not sure what to do with the speaker wires on the harness. Thanks.
If you will not be powering any speakers off the aftermarket stereo, there's no need to connect the factory speaker wires to the aftermarket stereo's harness. If they are already connected, there's no need to disconnect them as long as the opposite ends terminate in a factory speaker plug that keeps the positive and negative ends from contacting each other. For additional assistance and personalized recommendations, feel free to contact us directly: bit.ly/2jBGHPp Hope that helps.--Crutchfield
Thanks. Called you guys and got the answer on phone. Install came out great.