$6,800 in repair cost plus vehicle down time and lost revenue. All could have been prevented by spending $1,000 - $2,000 in routine maintenence over the 5 years of use. $100 every 4-6 months for oil. Half that if you do it yourself.
5 years is only $500 extra by going 6 m/5k miles interval for oil change vs 12k miles. With weekly discount from autozone or advance autoparts, 5quarts only cost $30 including filter 0w20 synthetic
I personally go on the 6 month change and been using Valvoline and OEM oil filter and so far 171K miles engine running smooth as can be. Being cheap with engine oil change is a gamble against the odds. Thanks for sharing AMD
The Problem is not with the Cost of labour or Parts Quality , It IS the qualified Hands That Works on rebuilding An Modern engine . Bless your HANDS Mr AMD.
When you talked about the cost of the repair being high, yet the owner decided to go for it due to the lack of good used cars it reminded me of something we say on my radio show "the cheapest car to buy is the one you already own!"
I almost always keep my cars until they start "crumbling" - a sharp and relentless increase in repairs. That has varied from 20 years / 270K miles for a 1985 Volvo wagon to 10 years for the 1984 Dodge 600 (Chrysler Lebaron).
I learned two things from this video, you’re a top notch mechanic to perform this level of engine rebuilding and second, you’re one hell of a nice guy for sharing your knowledge, tips and videos to the viewers who enjoy your channel. God Bless you.
Only an expert could've done that job and you are that expert. Your customer learned an expensive lesson (repair cost and lost revenues from down time) but I am glad he used the best toyota mechanic ever.
This has given me a new appreciation for auto technicians. There seemed to be a hundred things to forget or not install correctly or break while disassembling. Everything about this job was truly impressive! Your dealership is lucky to have you.
Just bought a 2021 RAV4 for my wife who drives about 2500 miles a month. I’m definitely getting the oil changed every 5000 miles now. In the long run I am confident it will be worth it. It’s a shame Toyota and others say you only need to do it every 10,000 miles. Thanks for superb videos. I’m going back and watching as many as I can.
I had a 96 Camry I got from a co worker and her family. 4cyl. 200K. Lots of power for a 4 CYL. She mentioned that her father in law had the motor rebuilt under warranty years back. I came across that paperwork in the glove box later, the rebuild was done at 65k . Not sure why the rebuild was done. but it amounted to basically disassembly and a ring job done by Beaverton OR Toyota. I drove the car for 26,000 miles, upon purchasing it I had flushed the motor [3 OIL changes 500 mi. apart} and trans 2x and several later oil changes. Sold it at about 230K. That car used zero oil and had great power and nice clean fluids even after 3000 miles on the oil. Shout out to that guy at Beaverton Toyota for a great job. Remember, its not the fancy shop that matters, its who's doing the work!
Thanks for the advice. I never thought 10,000 miles between oil changes could be good for your engine and was told I'm wasting my money doing it at 5,000 miles. You just proved to me I'm doing the right thing. Thanks again.
I still don't feel comfortable pushing past 8k myself, but it really comes down to what you're putting in it. Mobil 1 has proven their synthetic oil time and time again to last 10k, people going past 5k on conventional though... just no.. don't do that.
What a wonderful nightmare of a story. On the plus side, the quick but detailed disassembly is fantastic. I especially appreciate the arrows to indicate what is being talked about. It's so satisfying to see parts that are not normally seen or accessed by DIYers. And with that, I hope never to see those parts first hand!
Yes the arrows are very useful. Talking about it as if a viewer knows where or what to look at is a big mistake. It reminds me of when people are trying to point out something in the distance as if our eyes are synchronized. They'll give a description sounding like, "It's right over there".
@@Rhaspun very true! Actually reminds me of how my friend saw me add water (many many years ago) to my dad's coolant tank with my friend watching. He attempted to emulate me and rather topped up the engine oil with water in his dad's car. We all know what happened. The difference was I was daily being taught about cars and knew what was what. He had absolutely no idea!
I recently paid $4500 for an engine teardown and water pump replacement in my 2013 Prius at ~160k miles and it was a no-brainer. Even if I have other major work at the 200k mile mark, the way I see it, I paid under $5k for the vehicle to take me another 40k miles, which would still beat the used car market in normal times. Total Cost of Ownership is the key to happiness!
I agree; It's all about the levelized cost per mile. The purchase price of the car plus fuel, repairs, and maintenance, divided by the total number of miles. "To repair or replace"??????? If his transmission holds out, he may have saved money, by doing the engine.
We had changed oil on our 2014 Prius when the maintenance reminder told us to. I noticed the maintenance schedule said 10K miles were good while the reminder was 5K mile. I was about to change to 10K miles when I saw your video that first told me to change every 5K miles. I think you may have saved me a small fortune somewhere in the not-distant future.
Well, I had the 2014 Prius with oil consumption at 150K but not with the piston ring. The prius gen 3rd notoriously have issues with leaking oil around the cam seal. There are a lot of people on the prius forum experienced the issues. No quick fix. The only fix is replace the cam seal that is required to remove the engine. Not very cost effective.
It's not as critical to do it earlier on hybrids because the ICE don't work as much or as hard as conventional ICE cars. Just another mechanic's opinion here.
@@Jack-qn4vt hibrid engine does start and stop more often then a conventional ICE. That is why you should worry more about changing your oil regularly on those type of vehicle.
@@luigicarannante618 I agree with what you said. Start and stop ICE is usually bad for the engine due to the oil isn't often reach the optimum temperature compare to conventional engine.
@@luigicarannante618 We've got a beat up first gen prius and It's getting close to 300k km and in the last couple of years no one's changed the oil and it's running fine with daily driving. Yes eventually it'll fail but no I'm not worried. In my experience the hybrid cars I've serviced always seem to have lighter coloured oil come out comparing to the permanently running ICE cars during a service. If we get data from oil analysts that says yes it's worse then I'll believe you but unless there is data to suggest it, there's no proof that the stop starting of hybrid cars is shortening the engines life or that it degrades the oil faster.
I want to thank you for this video! I got a '17 Camry with the same engine in April. I just did the oil change myself last weekend (95k miles on it) and was set to count down another 10k before changing the oil again. Now that I've seen this...I'm going to keep doing them myself at 5k intervals. It was well maintained before, but only at the car's built in intervals. My car will last so much longer now thanks to your information!
I came in contact with your channel when my car had severe issues with oil consumtion. I saw your video about the different stages and unfortunately my car was in stage 3 and couldn’t be saved. We changed to a newer car since it wasn’t worth fixing the old one though we really liked it. I’ll now be changing oil in the intervals 5000miles/6months to a T as you suggested. Thank you sir for your willingness to share to others your extensive knowledge. I’d suggest you’d call your channel ”The car care genius” since it would be more appropriate 😊 God bless you abundantly sir!
Recently I almost traded my 2016 Corolla for a 2017 Camry(I guess for vanity).When I noticed the Camry was a leased car and the owner changed the oil around every 11,000 miles.Deal breaker.He could of cared less.My Corolla has 85,000 miles on it and I did my own first oil change at 1,100 miles and then my own every 5,000 miles like clock work.My last couple of oil changes I poured the used oil back into the large Penzoil pure Platinum jug and it went right to the top of the jug.Not one drop of burnt oil.I also have only used Toyota oil filters.I dumped my CVT and radiator fluid at 80,000 miles.In the last 5 years I have not gone for a Shell gas station fill up maybe 9 times.Keeping fingers crossed car lasts a long time.Especially these days and times.CCN your the best!
I changed my cvt oil and coolant at 40,000 km, at 50,000 km i will change brake fluid even though it's still super clear, the manual recommended oil change is at 10,000 km but i do it at 8000 km even though the oil i use is good for 25,000 miles (Amzoil).
I was enthralled by this video. I've never seen an engine removed before (I know) and all the ancillary stuff that goes with it. I learned so much, but mostly to ensure that I get oil changes every 5k on my Toyota no matter what.
@@ericbennik2071 I generally have gone 7500. However, I'm going to take the word of a Toyota Master Tech especially now that I can see what waiting too long can do,. Besides, for me it's easy to remember that every time I get an oil change, the tires get rotated. I take delivery of a new Rav4 XSE in about three weeks or so. Now that he talked about what they do, I'm paying for an oil change at 5k and 15k. They cover 10k and 20k. After that, it's every 5k. With a hybrid, it should be very good to go since the engine doesn't run all the time.
Very nice video. My wife drives a 2017 Camry. Just rolled 60,000 miles. I changed the automatic fluid (just drain and flush). My wife was asking why now when I could wait till 90, 000 or 100,000. I just told her I trust experienced mechanics more than the manual. The fluid was quite dark. She mostly drives 10 mile trips in city traffic. I am glad I did that and did not try to save on fluids like the owner of this vehicle.
Absolutely fantastic and detailed video. Hard to believe a car with 200,000 miles was worth it to put a new engine in, just because of oil consumption. Buying make up oil would sure be cheaper. I had a 91 Prelude that burned about 2-3 quarts every 1000 miles and I was running 10w40 and a quart of Lucas oil. It ran great! Sold it will 198,000 miles to a very happy new owner
With my 2019 toyota c-hr i waited until 7k miles for the first two oil changes, then i did the third myself after 5k miles. Now, after seeing this, i think im going back to the good old 3-4k mile oil changes. I like changing my oil and doing it myself and this way i will hopefully never have to face this same fate. I appreciate that this person didnt give up on the car and decided to put the money into fixing the car right and with good parts. Yeah they should definately have changed their oil far more often, but hopefully their lesson is learned and can go much farther than 200k miles without another failure.
@@4af i plan on it, ive seen on some forums some owners complain about trans failures on the C-HR due to a bearing i think. Im not sure if they were all turkish built ones or a mix of turkish and japanese built ones.
This is an interesting tear down. The thing that gets me is how quickly even modern full synthetic oils break down. Yes they have detergents and yes they are rated to go 7,000 miles or more between changes, but I've noticed that my engine, the same 2arfe, would just sound a bit louder after 3,000 miles on the oil, no consumption to note yet. I've shortened the service interval down to 5,000 miles, from the 10k, between changes from the dealer and have had no problems so far. Only at 50k miles so far, I know it only gets 10k a year, but they are all city miles meaning I have to follow what would be the severe service intervals as per the user manual. I'm also following the suggestion from another channel, "Ford Boss Me." The car sits in traffic a lot and what it doesn't accumulate in miles it is made up with idling hours. I hope this helps someone to recognize that we have to adapt our maintenance to the operating conditions of the vehicle. This video was very informative in reminding me to check on simple maintenance tasks. Thank you!
@Michael Benardo If you look up the true Japanese way, then that thing wouldn't be in the shop! It's the bean counters that want a return when things conk out. They don't have much sway if the car lasts longer than the warranty and doesn't need anything major. I can't recall the videos as they have Japanese Kanji as their titles, but they have strict criteria on when and how fluids are changed. Granted like anything, there are owners that ignore these services. It's either the perceived cost or lack of knowledge that can get yah! Also, thank the specifications written on Euro oil. More often than not, it's the reason why i've seen bmws and audis in the shop. The make says 10k miles, period, which leads to them breaking just out of warranty.
Thank you for this video, it gave me a lot of insight. I think $6800 for the repair is not bad. I have a 21 year old Nissan Pathfinder with ~380k miles, my mechanic replaced the engine (I lost coolant intermittently and was unable to locate where) with a used one, cost me just under $6000. One thing I noticed is the fact that everything is rusty from the salt use. When I grew up in Germany no car would survive the state inspection after 10 years because they were completely rusted through the steel. Now my 21 year old Nissan here in CA looks much better, we don't have winters.
The problem isn't winter, the problem is stupid laws. I live in the Nordic countries, drive a 15 year old Volvo, with no rust except surface rust on the underside. The issue you have in Germany etc. is that you have outlawed proper winter tires, so that means they pour tons and tons of salt on the roads to keep them drivable. Which is kinda funny considering, especially Germany being so focused on the environment. That salt reaps havoc on nature and makes people have cars that would have many years on them be scrapped. Total waste of both car owners money, tax payer money and nature.
There’s a coolant crossover pipe behind the engine between the block and the firewall that can leak over time once the gasket gives out. It’s kind of hard to pinpoint as the leak isn’t in the most common areas.
@@oriondragos5876 This started to leak about 8 years ago on a trip. A tire shop put the car on a lift and showed me the water dripping, I had lost coolant the day before. They suggested to use stop leak as a band aid since it is impossible to get to, which eventually plugged it (the radiator as well, so I had that one cleaned).
@@NorthernContrarian Sweden, Norway, and Finland may get away leaving the snow on the road. Traffic in Germany is too heavy in order to allow that. They started using grit in the 1980s in town, but the problem was that the snow soon turned to ice. Many accidents resulted from that, and from the fact that many drivers had no idea how to handle the situation. Later when the steel of the car was galvanized cars lasted much longer.
I haven’t seen all your videos, but I think this one was my favorite. However, I wish you showed us where you put all the parts you removed and how you kept them organized while doing the engine work. I have long wondered how professionals, who work on several vehicles at once, keep track of all the pieces! Thank you, please make more like this one!
This engine looks so abused from outside not just from inside. I strictly follow oil change rule, 6 months or 5k miles oil change after I watched video on this Channel about oil consumption. And I'm happy and my car is happy. Thank you AMD thousand times!!!! God bless you 🙏.
Great video, I have a 2011 2AR-FE that was using 1 quart of oil in about 300 miles. All of it was in #1 cylinder (confirmed by pulling spark plug). Mileage was 156,000.Oil consumption was getting worse and had been going on for around 1 year. I ran compression check and it was good. I took to dealer who convinced me a leak down test was needed (waste of money) and it as good as well. I was convinced it was in the rings and was about ready to just keep pouring oil in until it died. It wasn't worth the money of a major engine rebuild or replacement. As a last ditch effort I poured #1 cylinder full of sea foam for one week. The level never went down so I assumed it wasn't getting to rings. Next I filled the cylinder at BDC and put air pressure. Then rotated the crank until valves closed and cylinder held pressure. Refill with sea foam and use 50 psi air pressure for 10 minutes or so. Use an old spark plug to make a fitting to hold pressure. Use a wrench or socket to hold the crankshaft or else air pressure will push it down and open the valves. Sea Foam - Berryman, Kerosene probably any solvent would work. Basically you are just freeing up the oil control ring by forcing solvent past the compression rings. Letting solvent sit on piston didn't work but some air pressure did the trick. Don't forget change the oils if you try this. Hope this helps someone out - I didn't think it would work at first but it did. Good luck 11/1/2023 - update, engine still doing ok. Uses oil but nothing like it was when the oil control ring was stuck. My son daily drives it to school and work. Current milage 177,000 so 21,000 miles from doing the solvent procedure.
This is actually quite good. I watched a few vids and guys to take on this issue but never seen anyone used air pressure. You gotta be a bit more clear for new guys. - BDC == bottom dead center - Before any step, rotate the crank to see how pistons respond. Use (drop in) chop sticks to mark the heights. While at it, blow air into cylinders to see how the valves open and close under specific cylinders. Seeing an animation of how engines run may be helpful. - Order matters and it will take time - Quite creative to use air pressure ... not liquid pressure (you can't use the latter, not strong enough to rotate the crank, this is what leads to bent piston rods during driving thru water) Two separate procedures, one after another: 1) fill at BDC, plug in spark plug opening with custom fitting, blow and pressurize the chamber, rotate til valve closes, let it sit there. 2) Refill with seafoam while valve are closed (doesn't have to be at BDC) and put in air pressure thru custom old spark plug fitting connected to air compressor.
I like it so much I have to reply more! It is more convenient to open up valve cover and access the spark plug tubes. It also enables you to see which valves are closed, opened. I just de-gunk my pistons and the best part for me is ... there is ready made air accessory hose that has threads (that fits spark plug hole) on one end and compressor connection on the other end; no need to make custom fitting using old spark plug. The context for his comment is one piston or combustion chamber. To hold pressurized chamber, you need to do while both sets of valves are closed. That happens at 2 times: 1) the end of compression stroke at which piston is topmost 2) the end of power stroke, aka the just before the start of exhaust stroke. Piston is at BDC I prefer the 2). Make sure you adjust the compressor so that it stops at 50 psi max. Unplug the compressor, empty the air, plug in the hose to piston, plug back in the compressor ... all so that air is pumping into the cylinder gradually, rather than abrupt rush-in
Wow, I never thought The Car Care Nut was this high level expert in auto-mechanics. Thank you for having this channel for us sir, this kinda stuff shouldn't even be free to watch.
When I had my 08 Yaris I did all the oil changes at 3,000 mile intervals. Never burnt a drop of oil. Always used Pennzoil Platinum. I’ve switched from 5W-30 to 5W-20 then 0W-20. It has about 112,000 miles. Ending up giving the car to my mom who drives it in the summer and drives a beater Subaru Forester in the winter. Kind of regretted it. My current car, a 2017 Chevy Volt ended up having Battery Energy Control Module failure after 2 years of ownership, that was covered under warranty. But the EGR valve and cooler was clogged and costed me $1000 to fix it. Both issues cropped up at the same time. I ended up buying a 1 Owner 08 Prius as a backup car in case the Volt breaks again.
I own the very same car, and notice loss of oil after checking my oil. It wasn't very bad, but after watching this video and a couple other videos of you saying "change your engine oil every 5000 miles or 6 months!" I started at 55,000 miles and will for now on changing my oil every 5,000 miles! Thank you 🙏
Thank you my brother. In the current crazy used car market, fixing and driving our cars untill the wheels fall off is certainly a smart financial decision!
@@driverman9528 Same here brother! My 2012 Camry has been my bread and butter. She may be boring to drive but she has never let me stranded anywhere in the last 10 years.
Smelled oil burning from a 1991 Toyota 3 liter V6, less than 10,000 miles, mounted inside the 1-Ton truck chassis. Oil changed often, left me feeling the future longevity might be limited. Your video caught my attention, thanks for posting.
I really, really enjoyed this video. I wish I could give you 100 thumbs up for this. Very well shown without the non sense and extra blabbering trying to over explain a point. I can't believe you crammed all this goodness in just 22 minutes. I really hope you do more like this to share with us. Thank you
I have always changed my oil every 2,000 miles. Oil is cheaper than this. I don't drive 2,000 miles a year any more so I change the oil once a year with about 1,500 miles on it. The oil looks clean but if you want to keep you extented warranty you have to. You are a great tech. I new the converter would be junk with the engine burning that much oil.
I want to thank you. Your videos have helped me with my Toyota Tacoma (2TR-FE) which had an oil consumption problem. I was able to reverse the consumption almost completely using Marvel Mystery Oil to clean the rings. I had to go at a higher concentration (40%) and thicker oil (5W30) since MMO thins out the oil. I had to also 3D print a part I designed in order to install a valve cover breather filter inline with the vent tube at the top of the valve cover. The only time my truck eats oil now is if I drive it really hard (over 4500 rpm). Thank you for the education.
Subscribed! Very worthwhile 22 min and 15 seconds spent watching this video and listening to your well presented disassembly and reassembly procedure; as well as your analysis and explanations. And don't forget -- 5,000 mile oil changes for sure!
Hello, I am fairly new to your channel and enjoy your content. I also have an aircraft mechanic son who likewise enjoys your content. Now, some background. We have owned Toyotas since 1981 and until we bought our 2007 Camry 4 cylinder never had a drop of oil between changes. At one time I changed the oil every 3000 miles and when I went to full synthetic went to 5,000 changes. The 07 Camry was using a quart about every 3,000 miles when we sold it with about 170K miles. It didn't consume enough for Toyota to fix the engine under the excessive usage program. We put about 15,000 miles on/year so the car had 3 oil changes per year. We had a 98 4Runner V6 which was sold with about 170k miles and didn't use any oil and sold a 97 Camry with about 220k miles that likewise didn't use any oil. So I was maintaining the 07 Camry as you recommended. I think I'm going back to a 3k mile oil change interval. Continue your wonderful pieces and God Bless You and your family.
I’ve torn into quite a few of these and found the low tension oil control rings just worn out. The compression rings were not frozen. Good video as always 👍🏻
@Incog Nito I agree. We purchased a 2007 Yukon XL when it was virtually brand new. Oil changes every4-6k miles….started burning a quart every 2k miles before it had 30k miles on it. A GM technician told me it was 100 percent due to the low tension rings started in 2007. I even turned off the cylinder deactivation, it did nothing to decrease oil useage.
@@hokie9910 Thts y in 2007 nd up a lot of car makers had oil burning issues especially Toyota nd especially after 2008 economic crash they were making it so cheap back then
@@andersonrodriguez8258 yeah and the new regs on mpg came into affect…it’s interesting if you look at a 2006 Yukon and a 2007 Yukon the difference in real world mpg is like .6mpg with low tension rings and cylinder deactivation. What a load of crap we have been forced to accept.
But do you have experience tearing into a low tension oil control ring Toyota engines that had 3,000-5,000 mile oil changes? If not, then you cannot know whether Toyota engines with low tension oil control rings have deminished durability.
Mr. AMD I know you tried and tried to discourage the customer from investing that much money for a 216K mile vehicle. He had his reasons and probably figured he had earned enough on this car through the rideshare business to invest some of the profits back into the vehicle. As an owner of a 2011 Camry with a 2AR-FE engine thank you for the detailed pictures. I love your channel!
Thanks for a great video. 👍🏻 I have a 2008 Highlander with 208k miles, I change the oil and filter myself every 5k miles and use Mobile1. Never have to add oil between changes.
I run Mobil 1 for 10k miles no problemo on all my vehicles since the 80's . I do change the filter every 3 months, and with my Rav 4 I just got a Baxter spin on oil filter adapter. You are a wizard on the engine change. Bravo.
Mobil 1 is not as good as it used to be but is as good as today's competitors. Everyone started using base oil to make "synthetic" as a cost savings. Mobil 1 was pure synthetic but cost $20 a quart originally. So they know start with base oil as well.
Hi my brother! This has been a very intriguing topic for me. I spent some time looking at my past oil change receipts last week. I've been changing my oil every 5000 miles since brand new and oil consumption started at 130K miles regardless. For me, the main culprit feels like stop-and-go traffic and the added one hour of idling during lunch hour every single day. I often debate in my mind now if I should have done 3000 mile oil changes from the start to combat this abuse!
Time to choose for a Toyota hybride car. It runs electric during stop-and-go traffic and also your climate control runs without using the engine. My 2010 uses no oil at all, and gets every 5000 miles fresh oil. A no-brainer !! :-)
Try cleaning out the oil side. Marvel mystery oil. Or get a professional BG engine flush. I use marvel mystery oil right before I change oil (500 miles before) and it does a great clean up, on my 2 4Runners.
@@wimschoenmakers5463 Sounds awesome! Do hybrids have enough get up and go? I'm usually too late with catching up with tech 🙂. Also how long/miles do the batteries last in hybrids?
@@JAMESWUERTELE I'll give them a try! Thanks! I tried liquimoly once in the past and it was good for next 2500 miles. Will lookup marvel and BG products.
I am doing the same thing this customer did. I bought a used 2011 Scion XB with the 2.4 engine on 9/14/2020. The Scion had oil consumption problems. I having a remanufactured long block engine installed at a total cost of $7,000.00 because I really love the car.
a lot of people don’t realize how important is to change oil every 4-5k miles max, also trans every 40k , just oil change will make your car run more than 200k miles without any big repairs
Hey dude, I also deliver for a living. I put 3000 miles a month on my car. Your videos are great. I didn't even know my 2014 hybrid Camry had a battery air intake, fan, and filter until I watched one of your vids. I didn't have a filter on my air intake. I got one from the dealer and it's on now. I cleaned the fan with compressed air. You convinced me to change my oil at 5000 miles instead of 6000. Also, I changed the transmission fluid with your help. God bless you sir
You do the best car videos on TH-cam. Clearly you are one of the most competent mechanics I've seen and your videos are content rich with excellent pacing. I'm a self described gearhead by avocation. But I'm now older and have sadly done my last engine and other big jobs. I appreciate doing it vicariously through you. I was an audi enthusiast but moving to Toyota. Audis are not affordable to me if I can't do my own work. I think your customer made a good decision. Better a devil you know than one you don't especially with you in their corner. You mentioned you've seen 100 cars with rings like this. I understand oil degradation and need for proper maintenance. I also think if you have seen that many failures based on user error then there is a design issue. The vast majority of people simply press pedals and have no idea what is under the hood. That we can have these incredible machines owned and operated as an appliance is a testament to engineering. Amazes me. Still, that many similar failures informs me of a design issue. Clearly a lot of people will not meet the best oil change frequency, especially people who only keep their cars up to 100k miles or so This then reflects poorly on Toyota as they get a reputation for oil burning engines. Thank you for sharing your expertise and all you put into these videos. They are a gift to so many, myself included. PS That comment along the lines of "let's hope it starts". I love that moment when it actually does. Anyone who has torn down an engine knows that moment of doubt and feeling of completion when it purrs.
@@tomlees7477 same with my 2020 Camry. Dealer told me Toyota says every 10k so that's what they do. They won't change it at 5000 for the first free 36k oil changes. Kinda perplexing.
@@jerrygreitens2522 just change it with your own money after 5k then get your free oil change after 5k more miles. That way you still get your free oil change.
If you catch your high oil consumption early it can be easily corrected. Mine was burning a qt in 100-200 miles and now shows no oil usage after 500 miles so far. WD40 (or seafoam) down spark plug holes every day and turn engine over with plugs out the next day before adding more. Keep doing this for a week. Put plugs back and drive high rpm for 10 miles or so. Do this again for a second week then drive 10 more miles and change oil. So far this has worked for me. Continue removing sludge from engine using seafoam or similar solvent based engine cleaner in engine oil a few hundred miles before each oil change.
Really good work/job, video and advice. I remember when oil change intervals were 3k miles and jiffy lube and every dealer loved that. Having driven 400k miles with 2 Lexus vehicles with the v6 1mzfe engine I believe 5k oil change intervals and switch to synthetic kept sludge away.
Excellent and educational video. I had a car with the 2AR-FE engine . I change the motor and filter oil every 5,000 miles, using Mobil 1 0W-20 and Mobil 1 oil filter. I also add 300ml of Liqui Moly 2009 Anti-Friction Oil Treatment every other oil change. Of course I also will be changing the engine coolant more often than the scheduled factory recommendation . Hopefully this engine will last more than 200,000 miles.
I had the option to spend $17,000 on a brand NEW Toyota Corolla 'L' (automatic), or to go and buy a used 2015 Camry for $14,000. I know for sure that the NEW Corolla will come with a BRAND-NEW engine that won't have a previous owner that did not change the oil often enough. These days it is far safer/cheaper to buy NEW than used.
As a quick screening check on any used car (I have only bought 3 new ones in 50 years of driving) I look at the dipstick above the "full" line. If I see varnish I thank the seller for his time and keep looking. My 2014 Prius, at 147K miles, has just shiny metal above the full line. BTW, the second car I bought new - a Dodge 600 - was the worst car I ever owned. The carburetor died in the first week, and things didn't go any better.
totally agree, buy your car brand new and most important have your new car dealership change your oil when required by car manual, dont trust cheap side car auto mechanic.
@@crow_2k11beatsbydre8 if i buy a new car i will not be going back there for nothing, my dad bought a new truck and never went back to dealer for servicing in the 4yrs he owned it, master cylinder seal failed he fixed it himself and sold it 1 month after and within the same week it crashed
@@19910602011 Your new car dealership always use OEM parts and side mechanics usually dont. And your new car dealership mechanics/techs are trained to fix and diagnose your vehicle properly. As far as oil change you can do it yourself, but when you resale your vehicle you wont have service records to prove the oil change was done.
The manual for my 2013 Scion XB, 2AZ-FE, states 6 months or 5,000 miles, and to check the oil level at every fill up. I do these things and so far so good.
I have a '10 Lexus hybrid SUV that's burning a lot of oil and my mechanic told me he thinks it's more worth it to sell it soon than to fix it. It's just going to be a never ending cycle of repairs and I think that's a fair and honest assessment.
I think its a pretty modest price for the work done, and the manner at which its done. Also, the perk here is that there is a video to see that work that was done properly. good job man
Excellent Video I have that motor in my 2015 Scion TC I only drive 8000 miles per year but change my oil and filter every 6 months regardless its not expensive. I currently have 51,000 miles on the engine love the car! My Toyota Dealership who I have been with for 30 years provide outstanding service! Fluids are cheap I am about to change my coolant and was quoted 129 dollars Canadian that is not a lot of money. When you watch this outstanding video I think it brings it all into perspective thanks again learned a lot more about my engines design! Rock on!
Great video and maintenance advice! Our 2013 Corolla odometer went over 61,000 miles a few days ago. We have ensured that the oil is changed every 5,000 miles. For the last 3 years, we've used Mobil One synthetic. We're hoping to keep our Corolla a very long time.
I would say STAY AWAY from M1 its not true synthetic and is known to burn away. Personal experience it burns badly in GM LS motor and Subaru Sti i have had. Switched to Shell Rotella T6 full true synthetic and NO MORE burning.
Years ago it was much cheaper just to rebuild or replace the engine. I still think that holds true. You can't equate the cost of repair to not only the price of newer, but the loan interest, insurance required, down payment, cost of operation, etc. When the owner is done paying for the repair, new owners will still have years left of payments. It was a smart move and put money in your pocket. 🤷♂️
HOLY COW! And here I was thinking how complicated my old '66 Mustang 289 was! I have a new appreciation for the brilliance of these engines and the folks that work on them.
Thank you AMD for such informative and detailed videos. It's nice to know that there are trustworthy unhonest mechanics out there that take pride in their work! I been taken advantage one too many times because of lack of knowledge. It has made me mistrust the whole industry. I can honestly say that I am more informed and more confident about what my car fixes that are immediate and necessary. You are awesome human being! And this is an Awesome video.
Mad props for pulling it out from the top. Much easier just dropping the complete subframe with the motor. Most detailed vid ive came across. Keep up the good work👍
So, I’m just not convinced that this was due to extended oil changes. I saw very little sludge, which means the oil was not breaking down. It had 200k miles and high idle hours so this little 4 cylinder had probably the equivalent of 300k miles or more on it. I also agree on investing 7k back into a car that will more than likely go another 200k, instead of going into debt and spending 25-30k on a newer car and repeating the cycle that so many Americans do. Awesome video, I hope we all respect the amount of editing time that it takes to do a video like this and the ORGANIZATION during this process. Thank you Car Care Nut for taking the time to educate all of us. You, Scotty Kilmer, and Toyota Maintenance channels have saved consumers millions upon millions of dollars.
You're not convinced, but there's mechanic after mechanic out there that are tearing these things down every week saying "it's the 10k mile oil changes." Got it.
@@thooks1234 I don't think anyone would deny that the type of mileage matters though. 10k in the city with lots of idling might be worth 50k on the highway. Run time, heat cycling, age, and extreme conditions are what break down oil. Mileage is only loosely based on that. For a work vehicle that you're putting 40 hour weeks on, probably not a bad idea to change it once a month at the very least however you're using it
@@caribougoo349 There are no oil analysis out there showing that 5k vs 10k is the culprit on the these low tension ring engines. This engine looked very clean to have 200k miles plus another how many hours of idle time. I think the idea and concept of low tension rings are exactly that, low tension. Oil changes will have very little to do with how long they hold tension. These things just wear out. I’ve seen it first hand as I mentioned earlier today with my wife’s 07 Yukon XL with oil changes every 4-6k and guess what…started eating oil by 30k miles as all of those engines do whether or not you change your oil at 3k, 5k, 10k, etc…. Now, if this engine was filthy inside but it wasnt, very little varnish and I saw almost now evidence of sludge. The guides looked good and I am sure if the oil pickup was filthy he would have mentioned that. Not trying to start up a fight here but I think if we all just think about low tension rings for a minute it’s first off a horrible idea, and second the driving habits probably do more to wear them out quickly then do oil changes. Tell you what, I will email black stone tonight and see what the guys who analyze oil every day are seeing and if there is a trend out there in regards to this. If they reply I will post it here.
He said the cause was frozen rings that wore a gouge in the cylinders. Partially because the rings are low tension. The frequent oil changes reduces the chances the rings get frozen. Simple as that.
My 2010 Camry did the same thing at 147,000 miles and I changed the oil regularly. I got rid off it and someone purchased it as a project car. I got a 2017 Camry from my mom with 27,500 miles. 3 weeks later, I got in a 4 car pile up, (not my fault, air bag didn't deploy) and it was totaled out. I took the funds and got a 2019 Camry with 30,000 miles and will be on top of oil changes.
My Toyota service department told me when I asked them to change oil every 10k. I asked how long they guarantee the engine beyond what the warranty states. They said no more miles. I stated I will be changing oil at every 5k no matter what. I have a 2020 Sequoia 5.7L. At may age should be my last vehicle purchase. I do plan on being around for may years yet.
@@bobh8783 the lighter oils do work, but I’ve also been encouraged to go with cheapest-non-synthetic 0W-20 until I can find another car and sell the RAV 4
AMD, for Uber Eats under severe heat conditions, I decided 3,000 miles oil filter changes with full synthetic/oem filter +15,000 changes oem ATF T IV for 2005 Corolla close to 229,000 miles own since new, switched to 3,000 miles at 199,000, and 15k-26k since 45,000 miles only first ATF fluid replaced at 30,000 miles, no fluid consumption, engine oil consumption at 3,000 miles = 0 qts nothing (Scotty kilmer, oil or fluid is cheap, engine and transmissions are not)
I change every 5000 miles synthetic 0-20 on the 2011 lexus is250 and 2015 gs350 fsport. 3000 on my 99 toyota rav , 98 honda prelude and 06 subaru sti 5w-30. I greatly appreciate your time and effort. Wife just got 2021 toyota rav hybrid gle premium
I have the 2AR FE engine , been changing the oil every 5000, and changing the transmission fluid too , and the coolant too , 180 k miles and no oil burning , and yes it’s 7 years old and changed the brake fluid too , gonna keep it a long time , might be my last car
I hope my 2020 Tacoma that I bought used with 17,000 miles had a proper oil change before it was sold the oil sticker was not on the window but they got me one and put on it 21,000 Thanks this senior citizen veteran values your experience I’m in Yuma , Az. Hope my dealer will have dedication like you...
You should have done an oil change as soon as you bought it. Doesn’t matter if they said or it looks like new oil. One way sure way you will know when it was done is if you got it done.
Too low of mileage to do too much long term harm, unless it was absolutely never changed at all.... Which is sorta rare in a used car. Just change it often and you'll be good. This is cumulative damage, it doesn't happen quickly.
That's why I change my oil every 3k miles I have the same car and engine with 200k miles and I have had no problems. Take care of your car it will give you a long life.
How great it was to see how you done this and being so honest with the customer. I watch a lot of your vids now I'm subscribed and that was just Great as a older mechanic retired I only worked on older cars,alot easier as you would know. Thanks again from Australia 🇦🇺 and I look forward to your future vids. Aussie chrisso 👌
You are very informative, sir! I subscribed to your channel because you specialized in Toyotas. I have a 2010 Tacoma Prerunner doublecab TRD Sport 2wd and a 2016 4runner Trail Edition 4x4. My dad was a mechanic but retired already. He also loves Toyotas. Owned two 1st gen Tacoma double cab TRD off road 2wd and never had any problems at all. Now he drives a 2017 Tacoma double cab TRD Offroad 4x4. We owned Toyotas for their reliability and dependability. My Tacoma has roughly 56K on the ODO and my 4runner around 15K and both are still running good. Change the oil around 4K miles and do the regular maintenace, it will keep running.
If I tried to do this type of rebuild, no dought I would have 20+ extra bolts leftover at the end of the rebuild. When no extra bolts or nuts remain after the rebuild, you know you nailed it. Good job!! 👍🙂👍
Wish all mechanics were like you. You are awesome when explaining what has to be done, and the way you take things apart. Enjoy the video and subscribe to your channel.
I had a similar story with a transmission - dealer thought I was mad to change transmission for $4500, but I knew the engine was fully maintained, and vehicle was well kept... I could have purchased a newer vehicle for approx $15,000, but with this I got a reliable vehicle with a 3 year warranty on the transmission. It was a good decision in the end!
I have a 7AFE 1.8 Celica with 297k miles. I've spent $1100 in maintenance for the past 11 years of ownership including oil changes and all liquid maintenance. I couldn't ask more from a car that refuses to die. Seriously people, just check your oil and add when necessary. Change 3-4k miles. Very simple and inexpensive preventative maintenance.
Another great video from the CCN!! One thing I wonder is: could the condition have been ascertained by a leak down test, and also using a boroscope to look at the cylinder walls? If you could see those divots then no point pulling the engine apart. I guess it is a small additional work to take it apart as most of the work is taking it out. Also, they don’t have JDM engines for these cars? I wonder what the cost difference would have been? At least this way he has a new block put together by a trusted extremely competent mechanic. One thing for sure is that these videos have encouraged me to take good care of my 2006 Camry. I go about 5k km’s with full synthetic, one year time, and it doesn’t get winter driven. Heck, I would even change it at 2.5k km’s if necessary, but what’s the point? Right now at about 2.5k km’s the oil looks quite new still with pennzoil ultra platinum. Now I can just barely see it on the dipstick. Another option for the owner was to put in an engine from the wrecker, and sell it and not tell anyone. That’s what a scammer would do. One scary thing about used cars is you never know how they have been taken care of unless you have full maintenance records. Another option if you had a farm or acreage: buy another used car of the same model and then you have a complete parts car for anything that would break. The thing is everything would probably last until the engine breaks after 300k miles if we’ll kept 😂
Hi! So all these options were given to the owner. I actually inspected before hand and knew that a short block was highly likely so we gave the owner a best case scenario and worst case scenario. The used engine route would’ve saved him just under a $1000 but they didn’t want it. As for a $1000 difference you get essentially a new engine
Just watched this video thanks to you Craigie. Now I'm thinking I need to rescope the Corolla to see if there is evidence of similar cylinder damage. Yikes.
Great video AMD. Fascinating subject. I guessed 7k at the begging of the video. I think in today's market I probably would have done the same thing. We recently decided to spend the money on our old 2004 Nissan Sentra (100,000 Miles) to have the fuel pump replaced as used car prices in Canada are insane as well. Customers also lucky that you did this job. Unfortunately deciding to make a decision to rebuild the engine in some cases is that a lot folks love their particular model of Toyota. I hope to keep my 2020 Tacoma TRD Sport 4X4 for a long time. There will come a day when it may not make sense to keep the Tacoma. However, I did my first oil change at 1,000KM. I have since changed every 8,000KM (4970.97 miles). Toyota Canada calls it a Service 2. Which is just a service 1 but with an oil change.
My parents have a 2015 Rav4 and 2019 Highlander with the 2ar and 1ar engines. I just told my dad to start changing the oil on those every 5k miles. The Rav4 already consumes a little with only 60k miles...but it's not much (.5qt every 7k miles)
I plan to buy a used Camry 2010 soon. After watching your videos on these engines, my major challenge is how to know a car has this issue before buying. Unfortunately, I'm in a country where keeping service records is not a thing.
This was an awesome video! I live in Texas and I wish there was people like you here. I currently own a 2002 Toyota Camry LE and it has a little over 292,000 miles. I have noticed that when I purchased this vehicle 2 years ago the previous owner didn’t keep up with the car, so I’ve been fixing it as I go. It burns oil like crazy I want to say around every 2,500 miles or so… I’ve been changing the oil quite often. This video explains what the problem could be!!
Thanks for your video and information. Since you work for Toyota that must be noted (good and the can’t comment points). I have a 2ARFE 2010 RAV 4. It was purchased new from a Toyota dealership. All oil changes were done at the 5K miles (8000 km) mark or before at Toyota dealerships. They are all on record with Toyota Canada. Oil consumption started slowly around 210km. The PVC was also changed around 220km. I’m now at 260km and I fully replace my oil by the time I have driven 5K miles and go in for my oil change. Definitely Not what they used to be… must be the 3rd seal piston ring that cleans the oil from the cylinder wall. Toyota does not care because the vehicle is 10+ y/o. The vehicle will have a used engine from a 2015 Camry write off with 69k on it installed in a few weeks. I can’t vouch for Toyota engines being able to out run their bodies anymore (400-500km) you are luck to make it past 200km with proper oil change intervals. I also did a compression test on the cylinders and they were all good (140,140,135,140psi). I believe quality has climaxed in all industries at the moment.
I like the "Cut to the chase" method to disasemble and button up the engine instead of watching some guy use a ratchet and viewers see every swing of the ratchet..LOL! Nicely presented indeed.
I liked this video. Thanks for sharing. I agree with your customer, about the current market situation. I have a 2003 Tacoma 4x4. I could probably get ~ $8500 to $9500 blue-book value for it (although with the demand I could ask for more). but since it's paid off and has been well cared for, I would have purchased a new block as well had this issue occurred. I would rather put money back into a reliable vehicle that I know will run for another 100K miles with few issues, rather than a new vehicle, with $300/mo payments. $6K invested now is worth more to me than a new vehicle. I've had salesmen offer to buy my truck, but they can't offer me what it's really worth to me. I don't care about Blue Book... New vehicles are just way over-priced IMO.
Epic job and epic video!!! We have a 2010 Rav4 with this engine so this was extremely interesting to watch. Thank you, Sir and God bless. ❤❤❤ -David, Elizabeth, and little Jessica
The oil/filter change interval on my 2020 Tacoma is 12 months or 10,000 miles as prescribed by Toyota. My 2002 Tundra which I drove for 18 years got annual oil/filter changes. I never even considered the mileage. Honestly everything I own gets an oil change once/year with synthetic oil. I haven't had a significant engine failure since I was a teenager. I'm now 67.
A good title for this video would have been "scared straight ". Thanks so much for this video. Best one yet. Like from the movie The Blues Brothers...you are on a mission from God.
Words would fail me to properly express the rush in my heart. I love the way you work sir. I love your dedication, your commitment, your clarity, professionalism, generosity, your passion, everything. You're doing a super wonderful job sir. Good bless you. I'd like to be in contact with you sir, for your assistance in some project I'm planning on, (if it's convenient for you). You will definitely be 'THE' guardian Angel I need. Thanks, and God bless you plenty!
$6,800 in repair cost plus vehicle down time and lost revenue. All could have been prevented by spending $1,000 - $2,000 in routine maintenence over the 5 years of use. $100 every 4-6 months for oil. Half that if you do it yourself.
This is wisdom right here.
5 years is only $500 extra by going 6 m/5k miles interval for oil change vs 12k miles. With weekly discount from autozone or advance autoparts, 5quarts only cost $30 including filter 0w20 synthetic
I personally go on the 6 month change and been using Valvoline and OEM oil filter and so far 171K miles engine running smooth as can be. Being cheap with engine oil change is a gamble against the odds. Thanks for sharing AMD
4-6 months? Lol. I don’t think you have an idea of km or (miles) driven for taxi. It would be 2-3 months.
Oil is cheap. Engines are expensive.
The Problem is not with the Cost of labour or Parts Quality , It IS the qualified Hands That Works on rebuilding An Modern engine . Bless your HANDS Mr AMD.
So true.
Call profit plus labor
you're so weird dude!! lol
I agree. I would happily pay extra to know the job I am having done is done by someone like AMD who is meticulous to details
Exactly.
When you talked about the cost of the repair being high, yet the owner decided to go for it due to the lack of good used cars it reminded me of something we say on my radio show "the cheapest car to buy is the one you already own!"
As long as you take care of it you can have a vehicle for 30 years or more
Very true
I almost always keep my cars until they start "crumbling" - a sharp and relentless increase in repairs. That has varied from 20 years / 270K miles for a 1985 Volvo wagon to 10 years for the 1984 Dodge 600 (Chrysler Lebaron).
Excellent
That's very true 👍
I learned two things from this video, you’re a top notch mechanic to perform this level of engine rebuilding and second, you’re one hell of a nice guy for sharing your knowledge, tips and videos to the viewers who enjoy your channel. God Bless you.
You aren’t wrong. But he more than makes up for it with his price gauging of the customer.
Only an expert could've done that job and you are that expert. Your customer learned an expensive lesson (repair cost and lost revenues from down time) but I am glad he used the best toyota mechanic ever.
This has given me a new appreciation for auto technicians. There seemed to be a hundred things to forget or not install correctly or break while disassembling. Everything about this job was truly impressive! Your dealership is lucky to have you.
Our dads gave us knex and bionicles as children
Just bought a 2021 RAV4 for my wife who drives about 2500 miles a month. I’m definitely getting the oil changed every 5000 miles now. In the long run I am confident it will be worth it. It’s a shame Toyota and others say you only need to do it every 10,000 miles.
Thanks for superb videos. I’m going back and watching as many as I can.
I had a 96 Camry I got from a co worker and her family. 4cyl. 200K. Lots of power for a 4 CYL. She mentioned that her father in law had the motor rebuilt under warranty years back.
I came across that paperwork in the glove box later, the rebuild was done at 65k . Not sure why the rebuild was done. but it amounted to basically disassembly and a ring job done by Beaverton OR Toyota. I drove the car for 26,000 miles, upon purchasing it I had flushed the motor [3 OIL changes 500 mi. apart} and trans 2x and several later oil changes. Sold it at about 230K. That car used zero oil and had great power and nice clean fluids even after 3000 miles on the oil. Shout out to that guy at Beaverton Toyota for a great job. Remember, its not the fancy shop that matters, its who's doing the work!
Thanks for the advice. I never thought 10,000 miles between oil changes could be good for your engine and was told I'm wasting my money doing it at 5,000 miles. You just proved to me I'm doing the right thing. Thanks again.
Like Scotty Kilmer says: Oil's cheap. Engines are expensive.
it is never a waist of money to change oil every 5,000 miles as you can see by this video. Expertly done by an expert
I still don't feel comfortable pushing past 8k myself, but it really comes down to what you're putting in it. Mobil 1 has proven their synthetic oil time and time again to last 10k, people going past 5k on conventional though... just no.. don't do that.
There are oil companies that are saying you can do 10,000 mi don't buy into it always change your oil 5,000 mi with quality synthetic
I change every 3,000 is only like 50 dollars every 3 months because i do my own change.
It was worth the cost cause you were the mechanic doing the work. I would've chose the repair too with your expertise on the job. Great job AMD
My exact words, knowing AMD he triple checks to make sure that everything is done correctly
@@shahrulomar4413 Surprised he didn't change the timing chain components and water pump while he's in there so deep.
Hi James. The timing chain has a wear indicator on it, it was fine. And the water pump was replaced not long ago.
@@TheCarCareNut Thanks. I forgot we're talking about Toyota and not the crap Ford puts out that don't make it to 100k ;-)
Will it be ok if I change engine oil in every 3000 miles a year with mobile 1 full synthetic oil for my 2010 Toyota Highlander V6 ? Thanks
What a wonderful nightmare of a story. On the plus side, the quick but detailed disassembly is fantastic. I especially appreciate the arrows to indicate what is being talked about. It's so satisfying to see parts that are not normally seen or accessed by DIYers. And with that, I hope never to see those parts first hand!
Yes the arrows are very useful. Talking about it as if a viewer knows where or what to look at is a big mistake. It reminds me of when people are trying to point out something in the distance as if our eyes are synchronized. They'll give a description sounding like, "It's right over there".
@@Rhaspun very true! Actually reminds me of how my friend saw me add water (many many years ago) to my dad's coolant tank with my friend watching. He attempted to emulate me and rather topped up the engine oil with water in his dad's car. We all know what happened. The difference was I was daily being taught about cars and knew what was what. He had absolutely no idea!
I recently paid $4500 for an engine teardown and water pump replacement in my 2013 Prius at ~160k miles and it was a no-brainer. Even if I have other major work at the 200k mile mark, the way I see it, I paid under $5k for the vehicle to take me another 40k miles, which would still beat the used car market in normal times. Total Cost of Ownership is the key to happiness!
I agree; It's all about the levelized cost per mile. The purchase price of the car plus fuel, repairs, and maintenance, divided by the total number of miles. "To repair or replace"??????? If his transmission holds out, he may have saved money, by doing the engine.
Especially with the new car computer chip shortage. New Car has to pay $5000 over MSRP and used car has raised 50% compare to 2021 car price.
We had changed oil on our 2014 Prius when the maintenance reminder told us to. I noticed the maintenance schedule said 10K miles were good while the reminder was 5K mile. I was about to change to 10K miles when I saw your video that first told me to change every 5K miles. I think you may have saved me a small fortune somewhere in the not-distant future.
Well, I had the 2014 Prius with oil consumption at 150K but not with the piston ring. The prius gen 3rd notoriously have issues with leaking oil around the cam seal. There are a lot of people on the prius forum experienced the issues. No quick fix. The only fix is replace the cam seal that is required to remove the engine. Not very cost effective.
It's not as critical to do it earlier on hybrids because the ICE don't work as much or as hard as conventional ICE cars. Just another mechanic's opinion here.
@@Jack-qn4vt hibrid engine does start and stop more often then a conventional ICE. That is why you should worry more about changing your oil regularly on those type of vehicle.
@@luigicarannante618 I agree with what you said. Start and stop ICE is usually bad for the engine due to the oil isn't often reach the optimum temperature compare to conventional engine.
@@luigicarannante618 We've got a beat up first gen prius and It's getting close to 300k km and in the last couple of years no one's changed the oil and it's running fine with daily driving. Yes eventually it'll fail but no I'm not worried.
In my experience the hybrid cars I've serviced always seem to have lighter coloured oil come out comparing to the permanently running ICE cars during a service.
If we get data from oil analysts that says yes it's worse then I'll believe you but unless there is data to suggest it, there's no proof that the stop starting of hybrid cars is shortening the engines life or that it degrades the oil faster.
I want to thank you for this video! I got a '17 Camry with the same engine in April. I just did the oil change myself last weekend (95k miles on it) and was set to count down another 10k before changing the oil again. Now that I've seen this...I'm going to keep doing them myself at 5k intervals. It was well maintained before, but only at the car's built in intervals. My car will last so much longer now thanks to your information!
The amount of engineering involved in design and mass production is mind blowing!!
I came in contact with your channel when my car had severe issues with oil consumtion. I saw your video about the different stages and unfortunately my car was in stage 3 and couldn’t be saved. We changed to a newer car since it wasn’t worth fixing the old one though we really liked it. I’ll now be changing oil in the intervals 5000miles/6months to a T as you suggested. Thank you sir for your willingness to share to others your extensive knowledge. I’d suggest you’d call your channel ”The car care genius” since it would be more appropriate 😊 God bless you abundantly sir!
Recently I almost traded my 2016 Corolla for a 2017 Camry(I guess for vanity).When I noticed the Camry was a leased car and the owner changed the oil around every 11,000 miles.Deal breaker.He could of cared less.My Corolla has 85,000 miles on it and I did my own first oil change at 1,100 miles and then my own every 5,000 miles like clock work.My last couple of oil changes I poured the used oil back into the large Penzoil pure Platinum jug and it went right to the top of the jug.Not one drop of burnt oil.I also have only used Toyota oil filters.I dumped my CVT and radiator fluid at 80,000 miles.In the last 5 years I have not gone for a Shell gas station fill up maybe 9 times.Keeping fingers crossed car lasts a long time.Especially these days and times.CCN your the best!
Well done man! Your car will thank you with a lot of reliable service. Once you do an oil change, you realise they really aren't hard
I changed my cvt oil and coolant at 40,000 km, at 50,000 km i will change brake fluid even though it's still super clear, the manual recommended oil change is at 10,000 km but i do it at 8000 km even though the oil i use is good for 25,000 miles (Amzoil).
I was enthralled by this video. I've never seen an engine removed before (I know) and all the ancillary stuff that goes with it. I learned so much, but mostly to ensure that I get oil changes every 5k on my Toyota no matter what.
Are you sure
I always changed my oil at 10k on my Yaris and the oil still looked like new on the dip stick.
@@ericbennik2071 I generally have gone 7500. However, I'm going to take the word of a Toyota Master Tech especially now that I can see what waiting too long can do,. Besides, for me it's easy to remember that every time I get an oil change, the tires get rotated.
I take delivery of a new Rav4 XSE in about three weeks or so. Now that he talked about what they do, I'm paying for an oil change at 5k and 15k. They cover 10k and 20k. After that, it's every 5k. With a hybrid, it should be very good to go since the engine doesn't run all the time.
@@dj3114 I have an 11 Lexus GS with the 3.5L engine, the book says 5K oci.
I've always changed my oil at 5000 miles,no problems .
Very nice video.
My wife drives a 2017 Camry. Just rolled 60,000 miles. I changed the automatic fluid (just drain and flush). My wife was asking why now when I could wait till 90, 000 or 100,000. I just told her I trust experienced mechanics more than the manual. The fluid was quite dark. She mostly drives 10 mile trips in city traffic.
I am glad I did that and did not try to save on fluids like the owner of this vehicle.
Absolutely fantastic and detailed video. Hard to believe a car with 200,000 miles was worth it to put a new engine in, just because of oil consumption. Buying make up oil would sure be cheaper. I had a 91 Prelude that burned about 2-3 quarts every 1000 miles and I was running 10w40 and a quart of Lucas oil. It ran great! Sold it will 198,000 miles to a very happy new owner
Clearly your main intention is to help people and you are doing a great job thank you.
👍👍👍
With my 2019 toyota c-hr i waited until 7k miles for the first two oil changes, then i did the third myself after 5k miles. Now, after seeing this, i think im going back to the good old 3-4k mile oil changes. I like changing my oil and doing it myself and this way i will hopefully never have to face this same fate. I appreciate that this person didnt give up on the car and decided to put the money into fixing the car right and with good parts. Yeah they should definately have changed their oil far more often, but hopefully their lesson is learned and can go much farther than 200k miles without another failure.
change the tranny oil regularly too as some owners on the CH-R facebook forum have reported some tranny failures.
@@4af i plan on it, ive seen on some forums some owners complain about trans failures on the C-HR due to a bearing i think. Im not sure if they were all turkish built ones or a mix of turkish and japanese built ones.
This is an interesting tear down. The thing that gets me is how quickly even modern full synthetic oils break down. Yes they have detergents and yes they are rated to go 7,000 miles or more between changes, but I've noticed that my engine, the same 2arfe, would just sound a bit louder after 3,000 miles on the oil, no consumption to note yet. I've shortened the service interval down to 5,000 miles, from the 10k, between changes from the dealer and have had no problems so far. Only at 50k miles so far, I know it only gets 10k a year, but they are all city miles meaning I have to follow what would be the severe service intervals as per the user manual. I'm also following the suggestion from another channel, "Ford Boss Me." The car sits in traffic a lot and what it doesn't accumulate in miles it is made up with idling hours. I hope this helps someone to recognize that we have to adapt our maintenance to the operating conditions of the vehicle. This video was very informative in reminding me to check on simple maintenance tasks. Thank you!
You were smart. 10,000 miles is just TOO LONG. The heck with the Japanese say.
@Michael Benardo If you look up the true Japanese way, then that thing wouldn't be in the shop! It's the bean counters that want a return when things conk out. They don't have much sway if the car lasts longer than the warranty and doesn't need anything major. I can't recall the videos as they have Japanese Kanji as their titles, but they have strict criteria on when and how fluids are changed. Granted like anything, there are owners that ignore these services. It's either the perceived cost or lack of knowledge that can get yah! Also, thank the specifications written on Euro oil. More often than not, it's the reason why i've seen bmws and audis in the shop. The make says 10k miles, period, which leads to them breaking just out of warranty.
Thank you for this video, it gave me a lot of insight. I think $6800 for the repair is not bad. I have a 21 year old Nissan Pathfinder with ~380k miles, my mechanic replaced the engine (I lost coolant intermittently and was unable to locate where) with a used one, cost me just under $6000. One thing I noticed is the fact that everything is rusty from the salt use. When I grew up in Germany no car would survive the state inspection after 10 years because they were completely rusted through the steel. Now my 21 year old Nissan here in CA looks much better, we don't have winters.
The problem isn't winter, the problem is stupid laws. I live in the Nordic countries, drive a 15 year old Volvo, with no rust except surface rust on the underside. The issue you have in Germany etc. is that you have outlawed proper winter tires, so that means they pour tons and tons of salt on the roads to keep them drivable. Which is kinda funny considering, especially Germany being so focused on the environment. That salt reaps havoc on nature and makes people have cars that would have many years on them be scrapped. Total waste of both car owners money, tax payer money and nature.
There’s a coolant crossover pipe behind the engine between the block and the firewall that can leak over time once the gasket gives out. It’s kind of hard to pinpoint as the leak isn’t in the most common areas.
@@oriondragos5876 This started to leak about 8 years ago on a trip. A tire shop put the car on a lift and showed me the water dripping, I had lost coolant the day before. They suggested to use stop leak as a band aid since it is impossible to get to, which eventually plugged it (the radiator as well, so I had that one cleaned).
@@NorthernContrarian Sweden, Norway, and Finland may get away leaving the snow on the road. Traffic in Germany is too heavy in order to allow that. They started using grit in the 1980s in town, but the problem was that the snow soon turned to ice. Many accidents resulted from that, and from the fact that many drivers had no idea how to handle the situation. Later when the steel of the car was galvanized cars lasted much longer.
I haven’t seen all your videos, but I think this one was my favorite. However, I wish you showed us where you put all the parts you removed and how you kept them organized while doing the engine work. I have long wondered how professionals, who work on several vehicles at once, keep track of all the pieces! Thank you, please make more like this one!
This engine looks so abused from outside not just from inside. I strictly follow oil change rule, 6 months or 5k miles oil change after I watched video on this Channel about oil consumption. And I'm happy and my car is happy. Thank you AMD thousand times!!!! God bless you 🙏.
Great video, I have a 2011 2AR-FE that was using 1 quart of oil in about 300 miles. All of it was in #1 cylinder (confirmed by pulling spark plug). Mileage was 156,000.Oil consumption was getting worse and had been going on for around 1 year. I ran compression check and it was good. I took to dealer who convinced me a leak down test was needed (waste of money) and it as good as well. I was convinced it was in the rings and was about ready to just keep pouring oil in until it died. It wasn't worth the money of a major engine rebuild or replacement. As a last ditch effort I poured #1 cylinder full of sea foam for one week. The level never went down so I assumed it wasn't getting to rings. Next I filled the cylinder at BDC and put air pressure. Then rotated the crank until valves closed and cylinder held pressure. Refill with sea foam and use 50 psi air pressure for 10 minutes or so. Use an old spark plug to make a fitting to hold pressure. Use a wrench or socket to hold the crankshaft or else air pressure will push it down and open the valves.
Sea Foam - Berryman, Kerosene probably any solvent would work.
Basically you are just freeing up the oil control ring by forcing solvent past the compression rings. Letting solvent sit on piston didn't work but some air pressure did the trick.
Don't forget change the oils if you try this.
Hope this helps someone out - I didn't think it would work at first but it did.
Good luck
11/1/2023 - update, engine still doing ok. Uses oil but nothing like it was when the oil control ring was stuck. My son daily drives it to school and work. Current milage 177,000 so 21,000 miles from doing the solvent procedure.
Any updates?
@@ScottOstr oil usage about one quart in a thousand miles, not bad and much better than it was. Oil stays clean as well. Car is driven daily.
@@larrydeem3071 Definitely worth a try at this point. Thanks!
This is actually quite good. I watched a few vids and guys to take on this issue but never seen anyone used air pressure. You gotta be a bit more clear for new guys.
- BDC == bottom dead center
- Before any step, rotate the crank to see how pistons respond. Use (drop in) chop sticks to mark the heights. While at it, blow air into cylinders to see how the valves open and close under specific cylinders. Seeing an animation of how engines run may be helpful.
- Order matters and it will take time
- Quite creative to use air pressure ... not liquid pressure (you can't use the latter, not strong enough to rotate the crank, this is what leads to bent piston rods during driving thru water)
Two separate procedures, one after another: 1) fill at BDC, plug in spark plug opening with custom fitting, blow and pressurize the chamber, rotate til valve closes, let it sit there. 2) Refill with seafoam while valve are closed (doesn't have to be at BDC) and put in air pressure thru custom old spark plug fitting connected to air compressor.
I like it so much I have to reply more! It is more convenient to open up valve cover and access the spark plug tubes. It also enables you to see which valves are closed, opened. I just de-gunk my pistons and the best part for me is ... there is ready made air accessory hose that has threads (that fits spark plug hole) on one end and compressor connection on the other end; no need to make custom fitting using old spark plug.
The context for his comment is one piston or combustion chamber. To hold pressurized chamber, you need to do while both sets of valves are closed. That happens at 2 times:
1) the end of compression stroke at which piston is topmost
2) the end of power stroke, aka the just before the start of exhaust stroke. Piston is at BDC
I prefer the 2). Make sure you adjust the compressor so that it stops at 50 psi max. Unplug the compressor, empty the air, plug in the hose to piston, plug back in the compressor ... all so that air is pumping into the cylinder gradually, rather than abrupt rush-in
Wow, I never thought The Car Care Nut was this high level expert in auto-mechanics.
Thank you for having this channel for us sir, this kinda stuff shouldn't even be free to watch.
When I had my 08 Yaris I did all the oil changes at 3,000 mile intervals. Never burnt a drop of oil. Always used Pennzoil Platinum. I’ve switched from 5W-30 to 5W-20 then 0W-20. It has about 112,000 miles. Ending up giving the car to my mom who drives it in the summer and drives a beater Subaru Forester in the winter. Kind of regretted it. My current car, a 2017 Chevy Volt ended up having Battery Energy Control Module failure after 2 years of ownership, that was covered under warranty. But the EGR valve and cooler was clogged and costed me $1000 to fix it. Both issues cropped up at the same time. I ended up buying a 1 Owner 08 Prius as a backup car in case the Volt breaks again.
I own the very same car, and notice loss of oil after checking my oil. It wasn't very bad, but after watching this video and a couple other videos of you saying "change your engine oil every 5000 miles or 6 months!" I started at 55,000 miles and will for now on changing my oil every 5,000 miles! Thank you 🙏
Thank you my brother. In the current crazy used car market, fixing and driving our cars untill the wheels fall off is certainly a smart financial decision!
@@driverman9528 Same here brother! My 2012 Camry has been my bread and butter. She may be boring to drive but she has never let me stranded anywhere in the last 10 years.
If the wheels fall off the doctor bills may make you wish you bought a newer car.
@@rj.parker Believe it or not. My doctor drives a Lexus ES350 and he said he would drive them untill the wheels fall off.
Smelled oil burning from a 1991 Toyota 3 liter V6, less than 10,000 miles, mounted inside the 1-Ton truck chassis. Oil changed often, left me feeling the future longevity might be limited. Your video caught my attention, thanks for posting.
I really, really enjoyed this video. I wish I could give you 100 thumbs up for this. Very well shown without the non sense and extra blabbering trying to over explain a point. I can't believe you crammed all this goodness in just 22 minutes. I really hope you do more like this to share with us. Thank you
Agreed?
I have always changed my oil every 2,000 miles. Oil is cheaper than this. I don't drive 2,000 miles a year any more so I change the oil once a year with about 1,500 miles on it. The oil looks clean but if you want to keep you extented warranty you have to. You are a great tech. I new the converter would be junk with the engine burning that much oil.
Lesson: change your oil on time. Use quality oil with the correct spec and use quality oil filter.
I want to thank you. Your videos have helped me with my Toyota Tacoma (2TR-FE) which had an oil consumption problem. I was able to reverse the consumption almost completely using Marvel Mystery Oil to clean the rings. I had to go at a higher concentration (40%) and thicker oil (5W30) since MMO thins out the oil. I had to also 3D print a part I designed in order to install a valve cover breather filter inline with the vent tube at the top of the valve cover. The only time my truck eats oil now is if I drive it really hard (over 4500 rpm).
Thank you for the education.
Subscribed! Very worthwhile 22 min and 15 seconds spent watching this video and listening to your well presented disassembly and reassembly procedure; as well as your analysis and explanations. And don't forget -- 5,000 mile oil changes for sure!
Hello, I am fairly new to your channel and enjoy your content. I also have an aircraft mechanic son who likewise enjoys your content. Now, some background. We have owned Toyotas since 1981 and until we bought our 2007 Camry 4 cylinder never had a drop of oil between changes. At one time I changed the oil every 3000 miles and when I went to full synthetic went to 5,000 changes. The 07 Camry was using a quart about every 3,000 miles when we sold it with about 170K miles. It didn't consume enough for Toyota to fix the engine under the excessive usage program. We put about 15,000 miles on/year so the car had 3 oil changes per year. We had a 98 4Runner V6 which was sold with about 170k miles and didn't use any oil and sold a 97 Camry with about 220k miles that likewise didn't use any oil. So I was maintaining the 07 Camry as you recommended. I think I'm going back to a 3k mile oil change interval.
Continue your wonderful pieces and God Bless You and your family.
I’ve torn into quite a few of these and found the low tension oil control rings just worn out. The compression rings were not frozen. Good video as always 👍🏻
@Incog Nito I agree. We purchased a 2007 Yukon XL when it was virtually brand new. Oil changes every4-6k miles….started burning a quart every 2k miles before it had 30k miles on it. A GM technician told me it was 100 percent due to the low tension rings started in 2007. I even turned off the cylinder deactivation, it did nothing to decrease oil useage.
@@hokie9910 Thts y in 2007 nd up a lot of car makers had oil burning issues especially Toyota nd especially after 2008 economic crash they were making it so cheap back then
@@andersonrodriguez8258 yeah and the new regs on mpg came into affect…it’s interesting if you look at a 2006 Yukon and a 2007 Yukon the difference in real world mpg is like .6mpg with low tension rings and cylinder deactivation. What a load of crap we have been forced to accept.
But do you have experience tearing into a low tension oil control ring Toyota engines that had 3,000-5,000 mile oil changes? If not, then you cannot know whether Toyota engines with low tension oil control rings have deminished durability.
Mr. AMD I know you tried and tried to discourage the customer from investing that much money for a 216K mile vehicle. He had his reasons and probably figured he had earned enough on this car through the rideshare business to invest some of the profits back into the vehicle. As an owner of a 2011 Camry with a 2AR-FE engine thank you for the detailed pictures. I love your channel!
Thanks for a great video. 👍🏻 I have a 2008 Highlander with 208k miles, I change the oil and filter myself every 5k miles and use Mobile1. Never have to add oil between changes.
I run Mobil 1 for 10k miles no problemo on all my vehicles since the 80's . I do change the filter every 3 months, and with my Rav 4 I just got a Baxter spin on oil filter adapter. You are a wizard on the engine change. Bravo.
Mobil 1 is not as good as it used to be but is as good as today's competitors. Everyone started using base oil to make "synthetic" as a cost savings. Mobil 1 was pure synthetic but cost $20 a quart originally. So they know start with base oil as well.
Hi my brother! This has been a very intriguing topic for me. I spent some time looking at my past oil change receipts last week. I've been changing my oil every 5000 miles since brand new and oil consumption started at 130K miles regardless. For me, the main culprit feels like stop-and-go traffic and the added one hour of idling during lunch hour every single day. I often debate in my mind now if I should have done 3000 mile oil changes from the start to combat this abuse!
Time to choose for a Toyota hybride car. It runs electric during stop-and-go traffic and also your climate control runs without using the engine. My 2010 uses no oil at all, and gets every 5000 miles fresh oil. A no-brainer !! :-)
Try cleaning out the oil side. Marvel mystery oil. Or get a professional BG engine flush. I use marvel mystery oil right before I change oil (500 miles before) and it does a great clean up, on my 2 4Runners.
@@wimschoenmakers5463 Sounds awesome! Do hybrids have enough get up and go? I'm usually too late with catching up with tech 🙂. Also how long/miles do the batteries last in hybrids?
@@kimdavis5631 TCCN has videos on hybrids. Short answer they last a long time 10+ years
@@JAMESWUERTELE I'll give them a try! Thanks! I tried liquimoly once in the past and it was good for next 2500 miles. Will lookup marvel and BG products.
I am doing the same thing this customer did. I bought a used 2011 Scion XB with the 2.4 engine on 9/14/2020. The Scion had oil consumption problems. I having a remanufactured long block engine installed at a total cost of $7,000.00 because I really love the car.
a lot of people don’t realize how important is to change oil every 4-5k miles max, also trans every 40k , just oil change will make your car run more than 200k miles without any big repairs
Hey dude,
I also deliver for a living. I put 3000 miles a month on my car.
Your videos are great. I didn't even know my 2014 hybrid Camry had a battery air intake, fan, and filter until I watched one of your vids. I didn't have a filter on my air intake. I got one from the dealer and it's on now. I cleaned the fan with compressed air.
You convinced me to change my oil at 5000 miles instead of 6000. Also, I changed the transmission fluid with your help.
God bless you sir
That engine bay looks a nightmare compared to my old 2001 Camry.It's a work of genius to complete that job successfully in my opinion.
You do the best car videos on TH-cam. Clearly you are one of the most competent mechanics I've seen and your videos are content rich with excellent pacing. I'm a self described gearhead by avocation. But I'm now older and have sadly done my last engine and other big jobs. I appreciate doing it vicariously through you. I was an audi enthusiast but moving to Toyota. Audis are not affordable to me if I can't do my own work.
I think your customer made a good decision. Better a devil you know than one you don't especially with you in their corner.
You mentioned you've seen 100 cars with rings like this. I understand oil degradation and need for proper maintenance. I also think if you have seen that many failures based on user error then there is a design issue. The vast majority of people simply press pedals and have no idea what is under the hood. That we can have these incredible machines owned and operated as an appliance is a testament to engineering. Amazes me. Still, that many similar failures informs me of a design issue. Clearly a lot of people will not meet the best oil change frequency, especially people who only keep their cars up to 100k miles or so
This then reflects poorly on Toyota as they get a reputation for oil burning engines.
Thank you for sharing your expertise and all you put into these videos. They are a gift to so many, myself included.
PS That comment along the lines of "let's hope it starts". I love that moment when it actually does. Anyone who has torn down an engine knows that moment of doubt and feeling of completion when it purrs.
...and I suddenly feel better about changing my oil every 5k miles or every 6 months, whichever comes first.
Mine has 1,000 miles since last oil change and I want to run out and do it again!!! 😜
AMD convinced me to stay with 5K mile changes. The amount of varnish in the original block told me where this story was going.
My new highlander 2020 dealer wont do an oil change until 10k. That's messup.
@@tomlees7477 same with my 2020 Camry. Dealer told me Toyota says every 10k so that's what they do. They won't change it at 5000 for the first free 36k oil changes. Kinda perplexing.
@@jerrygreitens2522 just change it with your own money after 5k then get your free oil change after 5k more miles. That way you still get your free oil change.
If you catch your high oil consumption early it can be easily corrected. Mine was burning a qt in 100-200 miles and now shows no oil usage after 500 miles so far. WD40 (or seafoam) down spark plug holes every day and turn engine over with plugs out the next day before adding more. Keep doing this for a week. Put plugs back and drive high rpm for 10 miles or so. Do this again for a second week then drive 10 more miles and change oil. So far this has worked for me. Continue removing sludge from engine using seafoam or similar solvent based engine cleaner in engine oil a few hundred miles before each oil change.
Really good work/job, video and advice. I remember when oil change intervals were 3k miles and jiffy lube and every dealer loved that. Having driven 400k miles with 2 Lexus vehicles with the v6 1mzfe engine I believe 5k oil change intervals and switch to synthetic kept sludge away.
Excellent and educational video.
I had a car with the 2AR-FE engine .
I change the motor and filter oil every 5,000 miles,
using Mobil 1 0W-20 and Mobil 1 oil filter.
I also add 300ml of Liqui Moly 2009 Anti-Friction Oil Treatment every other oil change.
Of course I also will be changing the engine coolant more often than the scheduled factory recommendation .
Hopefully this engine will last more than 200,000 miles.
I had the option to spend $17,000 on a brand NEW Toyota Corolla 'L' (automatic), or to go and buy a used 2015 Camry for $14,000. I know for sure that the NEW Corolla will come with a BRAND-NEW engine that won't have a previous owner that did not change the oil often enough. These days it is far safer/cheaper to buy NEW than used.
As a quick screening check on any used car (I have only bought 3 new ones in 50 years of driving) I look at the dipstick above the "full" line. If I see varnish I thank the seller for his time and keep looking. My 2014 Prius, at 147K miles, has just shiny metal above the full line. BTW, the second car I bought new - a Dodge 600 - was the worst car I ever owned. The carburetor died in the first week, and things didn't go any better.
If service receipts have been kept then all should be fine.
totally agree, buy your car brand new and most important have your new car dealership change your oil when required by car manual, dont trust cheap side car auto mechanic.
@@crow_2k11beatsbydre8 if i buy a new car i will not be going back there for nothing, my dad bought a new truck and never went back to dealer for servicing in the 4yrs he owned it, master cylinder seal failed he fixed it himself and sold it 1 month after and within the same week it crashed
@@19910602011 Your new car dealership always use OEM parts and side mechanics usually dont. And your new car dealership mechanics/techs are trained to fix and diagnose your vehicle properly. As far as oil change you can do it yourself, but when you resale your vehicle you wont have service records to prove the oil change was done.
respect for admitting you broke something, and learned from it, 1 and done. honesty is rare.
The manual for my 2013 Scion XB, 2AZ-FE, states 6 months or 5,000 miles, and to check the oil level at every fill up. I do these things and so far so good.
I have a '10 Lexus hybrid SUV that's burning a lot of oil and my mechanic told me he thinks it's more worth it to sell it soon than to fix it. It's just going to be a never ending cycle of repairs and I think that's a fair and honest assessment.
I think its a pretty modest price for the work done, and the manner at which its done. Also, the perk here is that there is a video to see that work that was done properly. good job man
Excellent Video I have that motor in my 2015 Scion TC I only drive 8000 miles per year but change my oil and filter every 6 months regardless its not expensive. I currently have 51,000 miles on the engine love the car! My Toyota Dealership who I have been with for 30 years provide outstanding service! Fluids are cheap I am about to change my coolant and was quoted 129 dollars Canadian that is not a lot of money. When you watch this outstanding video I think it brings it all into perspective thanks again learned a lot more about my engines design! Rock on!
Great video and maintenance advice! Our 2013 Corolla odometer went over 61,000 miles a few days ago. We have ensured that the oil is changed every 5,000 miles. For the last 3 years, we've used Mobil One synthetic. We're hoping to keep our Corolla a very long time.
your right on track with oil change at 5k, but with the age of your vehicle maybe try changing oil at 4k.
I would say STAY AWAY from M1 its not true synthetic and is known to burn away. Personal experience it burns badly in GM LS motor and Subaru Sti i have had. Switched to Shell Rotella T6 full true synthetic and NO MORE burning.
Years ago it was much cheaper just to rebuild or replace the engine. I still think that holds true. You can't equate the cost of repair to not only the price of newer, but the loan interest, insurance required, down payment, cost of operation, etc. When the owner is done paying for the repair, new owners will still have years left of payments. It was a smart move and put money in your pocket. 🤷♂️
Great video. Rest assured my 2021 ES hybrid will get oil changes every 5k!
Overkill.
@@Shane-zx4ps Nah 5k to 6k on brand new engines and after 100k change oil every 3k. Always keep your own service records with new car dealer.
HOLY COW! And here I was thinking how complicated my old '66 Mustang 289 was! I have a new appreciation for the brilliance of these engines and the folks that work on them.
Fantastic video. I am changing my oil every 5000 miles or every six months from now on, even though, I use synthetic oil. Thanks.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who feels the need to clean the area I work in and then give the engine bay a good clean 💚
Thank you AMD for such informative and detailed videos. It's nice to know that there are trustworthy unhonest mechanics out there that take pride in their work! I been taken advantage one too many times because of lack of knowledge. It has made me mistrust the whole industry. I can honestly say that I am more informed and more confident about what my car fixes that are immediate and necessary. You are awesome human being! And this is an Awesome video.
Mad props for pulling it out from the top. Much easier just dropping the complete subframe with the motor. Most detailed vid ive came across. Keep up the good work👍
So, I’m just not convinced that this was due to extended oil changes. I saw very little sludge, which means the oil was not breaking down. It had 200k miles and high idle hours so this little 4 cylinder had probably the equivalent of 300k miles or more on it. I also agree on investing 7k back into a car that will more than likely go another 200k, instead of going into debt and spending 25-30k on a newer car and repeating the cycle that so many Americans do. Awesome video, I hope we all respect the amount of editing time that it takes to do a video like this and the ORGANIZATION during this process. Thank you Car Care Nut for taking the time to educate all of us. You, Scotty Kilmer, and Toyota Maintenance channels have saved consumers millions upon millions of dollars.
You're not convinced, but there's mechanic after mechanic out there that are tearing these things down every week saying "it's the 10k mile oil changes." Got it.
@@thooks1234 I don't think anyone would deny that the type of mileage matters though. 10k in the city with lots of idling might be worth 50k on the highway. Run time, heat cycling, age, and extreme conditions are what break down oil. Mileage is only loosely based on that.
For a work vehicle that you're putting 40 hour weeks on, probably not a bad idea to change it once a month at the very least however you're using it
@@thooks1234 Correct.
@@caribougoo349 There are no oil analysis out there showing that 5k vs 10k is the culprit on the these low tension ring engines. This engine looked very clean to have 200k miles plus another how many hours of idle time. I think the idea and concept of low tension rings are exactly that, low tension. Oil changes will have very little to do with how long they hold tension. These things just wear out. I’ve seen it first hand as I mentioned earlier today with my wife’s 07 Yukon XL with oil changes every 4-6k and guess what…started eating oil by 30k miles as all of those engines do whether or not you change your oil at 3k, 5k, 10k, etc…. Now, if this engine was filthy inside but it wasnt, very little varnish and I saw almost now evidence of sludge. The guides looked good and I am sure if the oil pickup was filthy he would have mentioned that. Not trying to start up a fight here but I think if we all just think about low tension rings for a minute it’s first off a horrible idea, and second the driving habits probably do more to wear them out quickly then do oil changes. Tell you what, I will email black stone tonight and see what the guys who analyze oil every day are seeing and if there is a trend out there in regards to this. If they reply I will post it here.
He said the cause was frozen rings that wore a gouge in the cylinders. Partially because the rings are low tension. The frequent oil changes reduces the chances the rings get frozen. Simple as that.
My 2010 Camry did the same thing at 147,000 miles and I changed the oil regularly. I got rid off it and someone purchased it as a project car. I got a 2017 Camry from my mom with 27,500 miles. 3 weeks later, I got in a 4 car pile up, (not my fault, air bag didn't deploy) and it was totaled out. I took the funds and got a 2019 Camry with 30,000 miles and will be on top of oil changes.
I hope no one got hurt In the accident!
The woman behind me had a broken arm. I am going to physical therapy for my back. 3 out of the 4 cars were totalled.
My Toyota service department told me when I asked them to change oil every 10k. I asked how long they guarantee the engine beyond what the warranty states. They said no more miles. I stated I will be changing oil at every 5k no matter what. I have a 2020 Sequoia 5.7L. At may age should be my last vehicle purchase. I do plan on being around for may years yet.
Thank you brother! Be blessed as you have helped others! I just got an 07 RAV4 2.4L with 175K so I’ve been burning oil like crazy
Try Amsoil Signature Series if you burning 1qt every 1,000 miles. If it’s not that bad, use Full Synthetic from Walmart if Amsoil isn’t worth it
@@bobh8783 the lighter oils do work, but I’ve also been encouraged to go with cheapest-non-synthetic 0W-20 until I can find another car and sell the RAV 4
Go up one step in the viscosity rating like from 0w30 to 5w40.
@@alouisschafer7212 i did; it burned more oil
@@stephenyoungblood3683 bruhh shes fucked big time then.
AMD, for Uber Eats under severe heat conditions, I decided 3,000 miles oil filter changes with full synthetic/oem filter +15,000 changes oem ATF T IV for 2005 Corolla close to 229,000 miles own since new, switched to 3,000 miles at 199,000, and 15k-26k since 45,000 miles only first ATF fluid replaced at 30,000 miles, no fluid consumption, engine oil consumption at 3,000 miles = 0 qts nothing (Scotty kilmer, oil or fluid is cheap, engine and transmissions are not)
I change every 5000 miles synthetic 0-20 on the 2011 lexus is250 and 2015 gs350 fsport. 3000 on my 99 toyota rav , 98 honda prelude and 06 subaru sti 5w-30. I greatly appreciate your time and effort. Wife just got 2021 toyota rav hybrid gle premium
I have the 2AR FE engine , been changing the oil every 5000, and changing the transmission fluid too , and the coolant too , 180 k miles and no oil burning , and yes it’s 7 years old and changed the brake fluid too , gonna keep it a long time , might be my last car
Me too , doing the same thing
Wow! How many professional mechanics are competent enough to do that Job??? Amazing knowledge!!! Like they say, oil is cheap, engines are expensive.
I hope my 2020 Tacoma that I bought used with 17,000 miles had a proper oil change before it was sold the oil sticker was not on the window but they got me one and put on it 21,000
Thanks this senior citizen veteran values your experience
I’m in Yuma , Az.
Hope my dealer will have dedication like you...
Just change it if you are in question
You should have done an oil change as soon as you bought it. Doesn’t matter if they said or it looks like new oil. One way sure way you will know when it was done is if you got it done.
Too low of mileage to do too much long term harm, unless it was absolutely never changed at all.... Which is sorta rare in a used car.
Just change it often and you'll be good. This is cumulative damage, it doesn't happen quickly.
Hi! I wouldn’t worry as that’s too low mileage to cause harm. Just from this point forward take care of the maintenance and you won’t have issues
That's why I change my oil every 3k miles I have the same car and engine with 200k miles and I have had no problems. Take care of your car it will give you a long life.
How great it was to see how you done this and being so honest with the customer. I watch a lot of your vids now I'm subscribed and that was just Great as a older mechanic retired I only worked on older cars,alot easier as you would know. Thanks again from Australia 🇦🇺 and I look forward to your future vids.
Aussie chrisso 👌
You are very informative, sir! I subscribed to your channel because you specialized in Toyotas. I have a 2010 Tacoma Prerunner doublecab TRD Sport 2wd and a 2016 4runner Trail Edition 4x4. My dad was a mechanic but retired already. He also loves Toyotas. Owned two 1st gen Tacoma double cab TRD off road 2wd and never had any problems at all. Now he drives a 2017 Tacoma double cab TRD Offroad 4x4. We owned Toyotas for their reliability and dependability. My Tacoma has roughly 56K on the ODO and my 4runner around 15K and both are still running good. Change the oil around 4K miles and do the regular maintenace, it will keep running.
I still change my oil at 3k or less. I do a lot of city driving. 02 Taco and I'm tbe original and only owner.
If I tried to do this type of rebuild, no dought I would have 20+ extra bolts leftover at the end of the rebuild. When no extra bolts or nuts remain after the rebuild, you know you nailed it. Good job!! 👍🙂👍
Nah you just reassembled it more efficiently than the manufacturer. Never said anything about it running though lol.
@@mxmobile5619 😂😅🤣😂😅 That makes no sense
Wish all mechanics were like you. You are awesome when explaining what has to be done, and the way you take things apart. Enjoy the video and subscribe to your channel.
I had a similar story with a transmission - dealer thought I was mad to change transmission for $4500, but I knew the engine was fully maintained, and vehicle was well kept... I could have purchased a newer vehicle for approx $15,000, but with this I got a reliable vehicle with a 3 year warranty on the transmission. It was a good decision in the end!
Beautiful job, nice to see someone take pride in their work.
I have a 7AFE 1.8 Celica with 297k miles. I've spent $1100 in maintenance for the past 11 years of ownership including oil changes and all liquid maintenance. I couldn't ask more from a car that refuses to die. Seriously people, just check your oil and add when necessary. Change 3-4k miles. Very simple and inexpensive preventative maintenance.
Another great video from the CCN!!
One thing I wonder is: could the condition have been ascertained by a leak down test, and also using a boroscope to look at the cylinder walls? If you could see those divots then no point pulling the engine apart. I guess it is a small additional work to take it apart as most of the work is taking it out.
Also, they don’t have JDM engines for these cars? I wonder what the cost difference would have been? At least this way he has a new block put together by a trusted extremely competent mechanic.
One thing for sure is that these videos have encouraged me to take good care of my 2006 Camry. I go about 5k km’s with full synthetic, one year time, and it doesn’t get winter driven. Heck, I would even change it at 2.5k km’s if necessary, but what’s the point? Right now at about 2.5k km’s the oil looks quite new still with pennzoil ultra platinum. Now I can just barely see it on the dipstick.
Another option for the owner was to put in an engine from the wrecker, and sell it and not tell anyone. That’s what a scammer would do.
One scary thing about used cars is you never know how they have been taken care of unless you have full maintenance records.
Another option if you had a farm or acreage: buy another used car of the same model and then you have a complete parts car for anything that would break. The thing is everything would probably last until the engine breaks after 300k miles if we’ll kept 😂
Hi! So all these options were given to the owner. I actually inspected before hand and knew that a short block was highly likely so we gave the owner a best case scenario and worst case scenario. The used engine route would’ve saved him just under a $1000 but they didn’t want it. As for a $1000 difference you get essentially a new engine
Just watched this video thanks to you Craigie. Now I'm thinking I need to rescope the Corolla to see if there is evidence of similar cylinder damage. Yikes.
Great video AMD. Fascinating subject. I guessed 7k at the begging of the video. I think in today's market I probably would have done the same thing. We recently decided to spend the money on our old 2004 Nissan Sentra (100,000 Miles) to have the fuel pump replaced as used car prices in Canada are insane as well. Customers also lucky that you did this job. Unfortunately deciding to make a decision to rebuild the engine in some cases is that a lot folks love their particular model of Toyota. I hope to keep my 2020 Tacoma TRD Sport 4X4 for a long time. There will come a day when it may not make sense to keep the Tacoma. However, I did my first oil change at 1,000KM. I have since changed every 8,000KM (4970.97 miles). Toyota Canada calls it a Service 2. Which is just a service 1 but with an oil change.
My parents have a 2015 Rav4 and 2019 Highlander with the 2ar and 1ar engines. I just told my dad to start changing the oil on those every 5k miles. The Rav4 already consumes a little with only 60k miles...but it's not much (.5qt every 7k miles)
I plan to buy a used Camry 2010 soon. After watching your videos on these engines, my major challenge is how to know a car has this issue before buying.
Unfortunately, I'm in a country where keeping service records is not a thing.
I got an 03 1zzfe that burns a quart every 500 miles, it has 330000 miles. Bought another vibe with 252000 miles, no oil burning.
This was an awesome video! I live in Texas and I wish there was people like you here.
I currently own a 2002 Toyota Camry LE and it has a little over 292,000 miles. I have noticed that when I purchased this vehicle 2 years ago the previous owner didn’t keep up with the car, so I’ve been fixing it as I go. It burns oil like crazy I want to say around every 2,500 miles or so… I’ve been changing the oil quite often. This video explains what the problem could be!!
Wow, I thought that was gonna be about 4K more than the price you said.
Great vid, loved the step by step. 🤘🏻🇺🇸
Thanks for your video and information. Since you work for Toyota that must be noted (good and the can’t comment points). I have a 2ARFE 2010 RAV 4. It was purchased new from a Toyota dealership. All oil changes were done at the 5K miles (8000 km) mark or before at Toyota dealerships. They are all on record with Toyota Canada. Oil consumption started slowly around 210km. The PVC was also changed around 220km. I’m now at 260km and I fully replace my oil by the time I have driven 5K miles and go in for my oil change. Definitely Not what they used to be… must be the 3rd seal piston ring that cleans the oil from the cylinder wall. Toyota does not care because the vehicle is 10+ y/o. The vehicle will have a used engine from a 2015 Camry write off with 69k on it installed in a few weeks. I can’t vouch for Toyota engines being able to out run their bodies anymore (400-500km) you are luck to make it past 200km with proper oil change intervals.
I also did a compression test on the cylinders and they were all good (140,140,135,140psi).
I believe quality has climaxed in all industries at the moment.
I like the "Cut to the chase" method to disasemble and button up the engine instead of watching some guy use a ratchet and viewers see every swing of the ratchet..LOL! Nicely presented indeed.
I liked this video. Thanks for sharing.
I agree with your customer, about the current market situation.
I have a 2003 Tacoma 4x4. I could probably get ~ $8500 to $9500 blue-book value for it (although with the demand I could ask for more). but since it's paid off and has been well cared for, I would have purchased a new block as well had this issue occurred. I would rather put money back into a reliable vehicle that I know will run for another 100K miles with few issues, rather than a new vehicle, with $300/mo payments. $6K invested now is worth more to me than a new vehicle.
I've had salesmen offer to buy my truck, but they can't offer me what it's really worth to me. I don't care about Blue Book... New vehicles are just way over-priced IMO.
Epic job and epic video!!! We have a 2010 Rav4 with this engine so this was extremely interesting to watch. Thank you, Sir and God bless.
❤❤❤ -David, Elizabeth, and little Jessica
The oil/filter change interval on my 2020 Tacoma is 12 months or 10,000 miles as prescribed by Toyota. My 2002 Tundra which I drove for 18 years got annual oil/filter changes. I never even considered the mileage. Honestly everything I own gets an oil change once/year with synthetic oil. I haven't had a significant engine failure since I was a teenager. I'm now 67.
Worth every penny paid...Great detailed explanation of disassembly and assembly. Awesome work and photographs of the process too, Mr.CCN.
Another 200k miles unless the transmission dies first, better get those fluids changed more often.
I will definitely be changing my oil more often !
There is nothing better than having a "qualified " technician working on your vehicle, or should I say "professional " thank you for that video!!!
A good title for this video would have been "scared straight ". Thanks so much for this video. Best one yet. Like from the movie The Blues Brothers...you are on a mission from God.
Words would fail me to properly express the rush in my heart. I love the way you work sir. I love your dedication, your commitment, your clarity, professionalism, generosity, your passion, everything. You're doing a super wonderful job sir. Good bless you. I'd like to be in contact with you sir, for your assistance in some project I'm planning on, (if it's convenient for you). You will definitely be 'THE' guardian Angel I need.
Thanks, and God bless you plenty!