Cleaning an outboard tilt tube
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2024
- In this quick tip video I show one way of cleaning the corrosion out of an outboard tilt tube. This can help to free up and outboard steering cable and making the steering much smoother an easier to turn.
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Hey man, I know this is an old vid. But I want to thankyou, it gave me the confidence to remove mine. It took 6 hours, motor almost off the boat... , a blow torche, and an air hammer !!! :) Yamaha A90 - Love you videos !
This is a great idea Stu. They sell those small hones here in the US for honing auto drum brake cylinders. Never thought to use one for this. Watching your channel makes me a better mechanic and an informed boat owner!
Thanks mate. I found it really did the job for a heavily corroded tilt tube. Not really for a general light cleanup, but perfect for this situation.
Great tip. This info helped me invent my own cleaning tool. Pretty easy to make and worked reasonably well for this task. If you are stuck in the same situation and cannot get your hands on one of these "dangle berry hones" here is how you make the tool i made: Cut the head of a 16mm bolt (or use a threaded 16mm rod) weld this to a smaller diameter rod (must fit in your drill machine chuck). Length on the rod must be carefully picked to suit your needs. The 16mm end can be slitted with a cutoff disk to make it dig faster into the rusted inside of your tilt tube.
I like that idea, a bit like a giant tap! :)
I do a lot of these, as we are in a salt-water area. When they are really corroded, IF you can get the steering cable rod out, the best thing to use first is a long-shafted 5/8" wood paddle bit. You put the shank through first, chuck it into the drill, and PULL the bit through while turning. Often it sounds horrible, grinding and popping and making a ruckus. After you pull it through a couple of times, you can go through in forward direction. This cleans out even the worst, most heavily-corroded tubes.
Once, you get that done, then you follow up with the wire brush several times, then rinse with WD40. After that, you put in a big glob of marine grease, and push it through with a small wad of cloth several times, until you are absolutely certain the entire inside of the tube is completely sealed with grease. No air or water can come in contact with the cleaned surface ever again, or it will rust again. You must seal every inch of the surface in there. Then you grease the steering rod and push it through. It should now be as smooth as silk.
This method makes for a long-lasting repair. I've done this on steering tubes where the rod was almost seized, and big chunks of rust scale came out with the drill bit, and they lasted for years and years afterward, with smooth steering. (my current boat is one of them) If you only use the wire brush on the bad ones, they tend to lock up again, after a season or two, as the brush cannot remove the heavy rust embedded in the tube.
Just a personal experience that I hope is helpful.
Hey Tony, good advice on making sure you get that complete coat of grease in there to protect any metal that no longer has a coating of paint on it. With so many of these tubes a brush won't even come close to removing the rust and corrosion. I would be interesting in trying one of the reams that Will uses one day www.ebay.com/itm/MERCURY-OMC-YAMAHA-SUZUKI-OUTBOARD-TILT-TUBE-REAMER-SERVICE-TOOL-/302243066011
That looks like an effective tool, but YIKES! that is expensive! I think the Irwin 16" long x 5/8" wood paddle bit was $7, and I've been using it for many, many years, probably a decade, and it works very effectively.
Look - Here is one for $5.99:
www.ebay.com/itm/Irwin-Speedbor-2000XL-Long-Shank-Electric-Drill-Wood-Bit-5-8-inch-NIP-Made-USA-/311816347043?hash=item4899b3dda3:g:SMUAAOSw4DJYhByf
Here is a bit that may be a nice compromise between the two:
www.ebay.com/itm/IRWIN-1890713-5-8-X-18-Straight-Shank-Installer-Drill-Bit-for-Wood-/282378424711
With the turned down shaft, you should be able to pull the bit through to increase longevity, but since it's a spiral bit, it should be smoother to operate. I just ordered one of these, and will let you know how it works.
Thanks. I just cleaned out one from one of my old outboards and actually used a wire brush like you did. It cleaned out most of the junk in the tube, but it had some bad rust that I used a round file on to get out. Now the steering rod/cable really works nicely.
Hey Greg, cleaning out the tube can make a huge difference to the feel of the steering. This brush actually has small honing stones on the end of the bristles (I should have shown a better close up) which means you don't need to file afterwards like a regular brush. These ball hones are strong enough to take even stubborn rust off which is why I like them.
Thanks-I'll keep an eye out for them--
As always, Danger Marine is my "go to" videos for advice. THis hone job is always what I have used so thats not new to me. But WHat I do is add MEK or Acetone while I use the hone to break down the grease and soften it up. Continiously cleaning or changing the hone if needed. I have a terry cloth towel on the other side of the tube for any drippings of the solvents. Once that job is done, I use a small steel rod and push a rag through, then another rag with WD40 to coat the inner part of the tube and then reassemble. Seems to hold up for quite a while without needing to perform this job ever year. I also add anti corrosion grease to the zerk on the steering end of the tube to that get in the tube as well. The grease I use doesnt harden up nor does it lock up the cable either. But as always Stu, you are the man.
Sounds like you've done a great job there! :)
@@DangarMarine Thank you Stu. It was all by trial and error then finally getting the skills right so I get it done correctly so it didnt have to be done every year or having to worry about the grease hardening up and making the steering difficult. That summer sunshine can really cook up the grease.
Thanks for the helpful video. I just performed this on my 17 year old pontoon boat that I bought about 11 years ago. I know it's never been done since I've had it. (Freshwater only). This is problem the simplest "bang-for-the-buck" piece of maintenance I've ever done. I will do this at least every couple of years from now on!
Working on my outboard steering right now in Mexico, where parts are a PITA to get. I was excited when I found the teleflex steering cable locally, but am not going to press my luck looking for the tube! I used a long piece of all-thread and wrapped it with sand paper and ran it from a cordless drill. It was pretty clean but when I went to install the cable it got stuck. I didn't force it and was able to get it back out, but I didn't have any lithium grease in there. Will work on it some more and then lube it up and hopefully it will go smooth. Thanks for the great video!
They will generally go in without any lubricant (not that you should!) so I would look at cleaning the tube out a bit more.
Thank you very much. Your video is excellent and you are a fantastic presenter.
Great video! Short and to the point.
Awesome, thanks for putting up simple and easy vids! I'm learning heaps and applying what i can! excellent work!
+Brad Jedd Thanks Brad, glad the vids have been helping you. :)
+Brad Jedd Thanks Brad, glad the vids have been helping you. :)
Hones are an amazing tool to have!
I must buy some more, the only down side to them is that they wear out fast.
very helpful great idea. also ive ordered the hyro steering unit a bit pricey $850. but should make it easier for the grandson thanks
Hydraulic steering is very good. I know it isn't cheap but I think you'll find it's worth the money.
You got to use a pretty old hydraulic steering system today- opinion? Not what you were on the boat looking at though.
Nice! My father and I used a long stem, 5/8 paddle bit to get all those rusty chunks out, polished it w 40grit emery cloth on the drill and grease like no tomorrow. Living in Florida means our outboards are held together with indian river-loctite (salt) so that grease almost HAS to seal the water out... or else
You're dead right about needing to completely seal the water out with the grease, things go downhill fast otherwise.
5/8 spade bit with extension maybe not quite as effect but works in a pinch
Question about greasing the tilt tube. I have a 1996 90HP Yamaha with 2 grease fittings in the tilt tube. Cannot get grease to go into the fittings. Fittings have been removed and cleaned. Do I have to actually remove the steering cable rod from the tilt tube to get grease to flow in there?
I've found Evinrude triple guard grease to be superior to white lithium grease for this application, The Evinrude grease seems to not harden like the white lithium grease does.
Good tip for cleaning the steering tube. I noticed you have a Mercury 90hp, similar to mine. Can you suggest something as mine seems to bogs down after the motor has run for a bit and the engine is warm. It seems to run great before the engine warms up. Thanks in advance.
Great job .....I used my 12 gage rile cleaner
Yes, brushes like that can be great if the corrosion is light that's for sure.
good job. tanks
Thanks Sam. :)
I use a 12 gauge brass cleaning brush
and could you do a video on changing power tilt/trim fluid please mate and how to bleed it up
kind regards Matt
I think brushes are a great choice for keeping a tube clean before it gets this bad. This took about ten minutes of honing to get the rust out so I don't think a brush would have done it, but it's definitely a case of horses for courses.
Done this twice on different boats, pita.. seems to me steering to the left, and the movement of the steering cable displaces air out of the tilt tube,.. and every time you steer to the right it actually sucks air and any spray (salt water!) into the tilt tube. I have seen a few types of seals to try and fix this. Anyone got a method to vent/relieve this pressure, before I drill a hole in the tilt tube?
Would penetrating oil be ok to use with a flex hone?
Any tips if the rod is completely stuck inside the tilt tube? Anyone?
Nice trick, and perhaps a gun cleaning brush would work too.
With a relatively clean tube, yes, with rust and corrosion like this I don't think it would be aggressive enough to remove all the crud.
hydraulic arm got frozen, had to bang the tilt tube out, and THAN clamp down the tilt tube to bang out the steering ram/arm. (old hynautic cylinder, which is junk now)
Question: Tilt tube , inside, now had uniformed pitting or rings up N down. I would assume it's damaged from the days of banging. Should it be smooth on the inside? SHould I just buy a new tilt tube.
Should be smooth, it is probably from corrosion.
Hey mate..just noticed the old yamaha 50 cowling is not in frame...surely it's on another wall in the workshop ?? lol
Yeah, it's still there. Wouldn't throw that out!
Maybe we should use brass brush for not to damage the surface?
If it just has a small amount of dried grease you could, but in this case it took about 10 minutes of honing just to be able to get the cable to fit back in it was that badly corroded. A brass brush wouldn't have been up to it.
Ahoy mate can you tell me how long a water pump lasts on a out board I get different takes from repair people on changing them one guy said 2 a year another every 2 years whats your take on this thanks
My own experience is this...I had a 90hp evenrude and had same impeller for the 10 years I owned it...never had a problem and was the best motor I have owned.I guess in my opinion for what it's worth is it depends on how well you care for motor and many other factors.Just my personal opinion.
I've got to say I agree with the comment below. I find they do tend to last a lot longer than many manufacturers specify. The argument is you are better off replacing if before you need to but I find many people just leave it in as long as the telltale is flowing and provided the outboard has overheat protection and you aren't far from shore, that sounds reasonable to me.
I guess the continental shelf off Tasmanian east coast is "close" to shore....lol as that was one of my fishing spots...and never even turned motor over dry....that makes me cry when I see outboards started in rigging areas.
ill let you know as soon as the ice melts here lol
Yes, not quite the boating season up north!
would dialectric grease keep it from corroding? i always have it on hand
I would stick to a lithium based grease as other grease types can react badly with salt water and actually cause the steering to seize up even if it hasn't corroded - the grease just becomes like a glue.
Why don't you give your local gun shop a call they will have all size brushs like this one used to clean 22 caliber to 18 gauge shot gun. They are quite cheap. For what you get cheers
Mike
I'd definitely like to give them a try, particularly for outboards that aren't corroded and don't need the extra strength of a hone.
how do i get one of your tee shirts ?
You can order them online here dangarmarine.com.au/collections/merchandise/products/dangar-marine-t-shirt
Really appreciate the video. Is there a way to remove the bit of slop in the steering wheel somehow in the control box?
Unfortunately it isn't adjustable, it is just wear in the parts.
Was afraid that was the case! Thanks again, cheers,
looks like my 50 hp Merc, I would love to see more action on that engine (I know, I'm being selfish... :)
There are a few Merc on the river here so I'm sure there will be more vids on them soon! :)
A+++
Thanks Manos. :)
Good tip can you check your Direct messages?
Thanks, will do.
Pete and Repeat at 0:30-0:45?
Oops! Bad edit...
I figured that had to be it...or I'm in the Matrix and that was the machines changing something. :P
I think we don't have dingleball anything in the U.S.
I take it back, apparently Amazon knows what your were talking about. A search there for "dingleball hone" produced a wide selection of hones very similar to the one you videoed.
Go to a good auto parts store like NAPA or a mom and pops store. Or jump on a tool truck like snap on or matco. They sell them, can be tricky to find though.
Stu,
I use a reamer. I got mine from here. www.ebay.com/itm/MERCURY-OMC-YAMAHA-SUZUKI-OUTBOARD-TILT-TUBE-REAMER-SERVICE-TOOL-/262807605439
Hey Will, I remember you mentioning these, they seem perfect for the job. Do you find you can get them in to a tilt tube when the transom is cut out like this or do you need to take the outboard off first?
Some outboards you do need to remove the outboard first.
Looks like a bit from shot gun cleaning kit
I'll take your word for it. Here they are sold as brake cylinder hones but I imagine they could be used for a great many things.