I have had NO trouble with the inserts chipping. I also use the same insert in my lathe tool holder. Even it you hit a very hard spot and do chip the insert you simply rotate the rotate the round insert a few degrees and you are off and running again.
@Histandard2011 Hi Adam, I'm about to venture into fly cutting. I just got a 6pc Indian fly cutter set, 3 - ½" & 3 - ¾", dia ranges from ¾ to 2¼. They take tooling from 3/16 - 5/16". It was the cheapest set I could find w/ the most variety. My wife works for MSC, so I get stuff dirt cheap. I wanted to get some experience before I started looking for or making bigger, better. I have a lathe & 2 LH indexed tool holders to experiment with; 1 is a round insert like this vid & the other is a triangular insert, so I don't have to go buy any tooling. You 2 fly cutting vids caught my attention because you seem to go against 'conventional thinking' & for what works. I'm like that, as well. I've been working on care since age 12 & built my 1st race car at 16, (drag racing). Been fixing, building & fabricating every since. Owned a biz w/ an old friend for a time building street rods, race car chassis & restoring antique cars. Had lots of room & equipment for the only time in my life. Most of my 70 yrs I havn't had the money for fancy ideal tools so I made stuff work. Along w/ my mostly side fun of building/racing cars & such, I clothed & fed my kids as a contractor; spent 30+ yrs doing remodels, lots of custom work. Even built a recording studio as my last big project. He was hoping for a demo studio when a mutual friend asked if I could 'save' him from an unscrupulous contractor. I did, & last count he's recorded 15+ albums for him & others. Did it on the same budget. He's happy, as you can imagine. Anyway, my experience brought me into maching 7-8 yrs ago when I got a lathe. I've been wanting to learn to use & have a lathe & mill since the '60's, but either didn't have the room or the $$ until my 60's. I studied books & YT vids, learning all kinds of theory & such while I was laid up for 6 months, then jumped in. Seemed like DoC & Speeds & Feeds tables weren't made for my lathe. I couldn't get anything good from them; did better doing the opposite, sometimes. So, I started experimenting, using my 'Get it done w/ the wrong/improvised tools' experience & started having reproducable success. I bought an old Jet 16 round column mill this summer, my 1st foray into milling, except what sorta milling I've done on my lathe using a milling attachment I made. It was flaky, but better than the router table I've been using for years, er decades... since carbide came into the construction world, I've pushed the envelope, a bit.. lol. What I wanted to ask, (& share w/ you), is if fly cutting depends on a very sharp cutting tool? May seem like a dumb question, but I have found situations where tooking can be too sharp; gets too aggressive & even shallow cuts in material is impossible. Best broad scale is a too sharp drill bit in a hand drill. What a nightmare that can be. Learned how to put an edhmge on steel long ago; when I started in carpentry, carbide saw blades didn't exist. Everybody had a rack of blades in their truck, destined for the sharpener's place. One nail or two rocks & a blade was done. A dozen rips of oak on a table saw & the burrs start. After I got the 1st carbide lathe tooling I picked up some diamond abrasive tools, (www.mscdirect.com/product/details/38611158), a set of these. At 1st, I was just working on brazed carbide. I'd bought a big azz box of lathe cutters from a retiring machinist & got all he had. He'd never used indexed tooling. One day, I was struggling w/ the lathe & mistakenly thought it was the insert, (later found out it was a broken cross slide lead screw nut). The funny thing is, I learned a bunch filing on inserts. Enough that when I'm working on sticky aluminum, mystery steel or something hard, I get after a brand new insert before I use it. I've found sacrificing a coating or radius is a fair trade when a razor sharp edge works better than anything else. That brings me to my question about fly cutting; if sharp's better, then giving one of those carbide cheerios an edge just might be the ticket. I've been thinking about my scrap pile & what I can try out a fly cutting on since 3:00 am! Wanted to connect w/ you & share one of my out of convention discoveries w/ you, thought you'd relate. The other thing is I see your earlier vids were RCBS related. I haven't reloaded in years, don't shoot much, any more. But I did find a great use for the RCBS brass tumbler I had; thought it might help you as much as me. It makes a great, minimal mess parts cleaner. Got some plastic gutter screen from Home Depot & covered the inside brass basket using the screen & zip ties, to keep small screws/washers in tumbler basket. Then I put some scraps of tile in the bottom of the tumbler, so the level of fluid would be high, but a lower volume. Figured I'd be changing the fluid a lot, so saving $. My neighbor told me about a Dollar Tree cleaner almost 20 yrs ago, Awesome Orange; I've been buying 10-15 half gallon refill jugs @ 1.00 ea, every since. Probably cancerous as all get it, don't drink or bathe in it, but it is a degreasing mi fo. I use it in the shower tub, just spray it, no scrub. Brass clean, chrome sparkles, soap scum gone. Like I said, likely give our dead uncles cancer... Put enough in the tumbler that stuff in the basket can soak & give it 7-8 spins per hour & in 2-3 hrs, stuff looks like it was hot tanked. It takes every paint but lacquer off, if soaked. Here's the kicker, though. After a year or so, I was cleaning some stuff, most of it rusty, so it was heading to a derust bath. I needed to change the cleaning fluid, & looked at the jug of derusto solution I use & thought.. Wonder if I can make this a 1 step process. Damned if it didn't work. What I'll caution is the last gallon of de rust, I tried, Evapo Rust. Thought I try it, & it doesn't work as good, by itself or w/ Awesome Orange as well as my 1st love, Metal Rescue. It's slightly more per gallon, but it's well worth it. So, if you have a brass tumbler you're not using, or if you need a great parta cleaner enough to buy one, go for it. You win't he disappointed. It is so low mess, I had it in a spare, light colored carpet, bedroom, on a small backseat floor car mat for a winter & didn't get a drop in the tan carpet. Was careful, but not overly so. As long as you don't aggressively tumble the parts, it doesn't even leak more than a drop or two. Hope that helps, as well as the insert sharpening suggestion. I'll let you know how my fly cutting goes if you're interested. I'll be putting an edge on the Cheerios, fior certain. GeoD
![[Gegagedigedagedago] NEW Help Gegagedigedagedago Nugget escape from Nikocado Avocado Challenge](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hJWnwRC2Fz8/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks Adam....great video thanks....
Thats the bees knees! Thanks for sharing
Great info, thanks
Any concerns with the inserts chipping since its an interrupted cut?
I have had NO trouble with the inserts chipping. I also use the same insert in my lathe tool holder. Even it you hit a very hard spot and do chip the insert you simply rotate the rotate the round insert a few degrees and you are off and running again.
@@Histandard2011 Awesome !!!
@Histandard2011
Hi Adam, I'm about to venture into fly cutting.
I just got a 6pc Indian fly cutter set, 3 - ½" & 3 - ¾", dia ranges from ¾ to 2¼. They take tooling from 3/16 - 5/16". It was the cheapest set I could find w/ the most variety. My wife works for MSC, so I get stuff dirt cheap. I wanted to get some experience before I started looking for or making bigger, better.
I have a lathe & 2 LH indexed tool holders to experiment with; 1 is a round insert like this vid & the other is a triangular insert, so I don't have to go buy any tooling.
You 2 fly cutting vids caught my attention because you seem to go against 'conventional thinking' & for what works.
I'm like that, as well. I've been working on care since age 12 & built my 1st race car at 16, (drag racing). Been fixing, building & fabricating every since.
Owned a biz w/ an old friend for a time building street rods, race car chassis & restoring antique cars. Had lots of room & equipment for the only time in my life.
Most of my 70 yrs I havn't had the money for fancy ideal tools so I made stuff work.
Along w/ my mostly side fun of building/racing cars & such, I clothed & fed my kids as a contractor; spent 30+ yrs doing remodels, lots of custom work. Even built a recording studio as my last big project. He was hoping for a demo studio when a mutual friend asked if I could 'save' him from an unscrupulous contractor. I did, & last count he's recorded 15+ albums for him & others. Did it on the same budget. He's happy, as you can imagine.
Anyway, my experience brought me into maching 7-8 yrs ago when I got a lathe. I've been wanting to learn to use & have a lathe & mill since the '60's, but either didn't have the room or the $$ until my 60's.
I studied books & YT vids, learning all kinds of theory & such while I was laid up for 6 months, then jumped in.
Seemed like DoC & Speeds & Feeds tables weren't made for my lathe. I couldn't get anything good from them; did better doing the opposite, sometimes.
So, I started experimenting, using my 'Get it done w/ the wrong/improvised tools' experience & started having reproducable success.
I bought an old Jet 16 round column mill this summer, my 1st foray into milling, except what sorta milling I've done on my lathe using a milling attachment I made.
It was flaky, but better than the router table I've been using for years, er decades... since carbide came into the construction world, I've pushed the envelope, a bit.. lol.
What I wanted to ask, (& share w/ you), is if fly cutting depends on a very sharp cutting tool? May seem like a dumb question, but I have found situations where tooking can be too sharp; gets too aggressive & even shallow cuts in material is impossible.
Best broad scale is a too sharp drill bit in a hand drill. What a nightmare that can be.
Learned how to put an edhmge on steel long ago; when I started in carpentry, carbide saw blades didn't exist. Everybody had a rack of blades in their truck, destined for the sharpener's place. One nail or two rocks & a blade was done.
A dozen rips of oak on a table saw & the burrs start.
After I got the 1st carbide lathe tooling I picked up some diamond abrasive tools, (www.mscdirect.com/product/details/38611158), a set of these.
At 1st, I was just working on brazed carbide. I'd bought a big azz box of lathe cutters from a retiring machinist & got all he had. He'd never used indexed tooling.
One day, I was struggling w/ the lathe & mistakenly thought it was the insert, (later found out it was a broken cross slide lead screw nut).
The funny thing is, I learned a bunch filing on inserts. Enough that when I'm working on sticky aluminum, mystery steel or something hard, I get after a brand new insert before I use it.
I've found sacrificing a coating or radius is a fair trade when a razor sharp edge works better than anything else.
That brings me to my question about fly cutting; if sharp's better, then giving one of those carbide cheerios an edge just might be the ticket.
I've been thinking about my scrap pile & what I can try out a fly cutting on since 3:00 am!
Wanted to connect w/ you & share one of my out of convention discoveries w/ you, thought you'd relate.
The other thing is I see your earlier vids were RCBS related. I haven't reloaded in years, don't shoot much, any more.
But I did find a great use for the RCBS brass tumbler I had; thought it might help you as much as me. It makes a great, minimal mess parts cleaner.
Got some plastic gutter screen from Home Depot & covered the inside brass basket using the screen & zip ties, to keep small screws/washers in tumbler basket. Then I put some scraps of tile in the bottom of the tumbler, so the level of fluid would be high, but a lower volume. Figured I'd be changing the fluid a lot, so saving $.
My neighbor told me about a Dollar Tree cleaner almost 20 yrs ago, Awesome Orange; I've been buying 10-15 half gallon refill jugs @ 1.00 ea, every since.
Probably cancerous as all get it, don't drink or bathe in it, but it is a degreasing mi fo. I use it in the shower tub, just spray it, no scrub. Brass clean, chrome sparkles, soap scum gone.
Like I said, likely give our dead uncles cancer...
Put enough in the tumbler that stuff in the basket can soak & give it 7-8 spins per hour & in 2-3 hrs, stuff looks like it was hot tanked. It takes every paint but lacquer off, if soaked.
Here's the kicker, though. After a year or so, I was cleaning some stuff, most of it rusty, so it was heading to a derust bath.
I needed to change the cleaning fluid, & looked at the jug of derusto solution I use & thought..
Wonder if I can make this a 1 step process.
Damned if it didn't work. What I'll caution is the last gallon of de rust, I tried, Evapo Rust. Thought I try it, & it doesn't work as good, by itself or w/ Awesome Orange as well as my 1st love, Metal Rescue. It's slightly more per gallon, but it's well worth it.
So, if you have a brass tumbler you're not using, or if you need a great parta cleaner enough to buy one, go for it. You win't he disappointed.
It is so low mess, I had it in a spare, light colored carpet, bedroom, on a small backseat floor car mat for a winter & didn't get a drop in the tan carpet.
Was careful, but not overly so. As long as you don't aggressively tumble the parts, it doesn't even leak more than a drop or two.
Hope that helps, as well as the insert sharpening suggestion. I'll let you know how my fly cutting goes if you're interested. I'll be putting an edge on the Cheerios, fior certain.
GeoD