Thank you for explaining and showing every step so clearly and concisely. Thanks to this video I feel more confident about tackling my upcoming stair rail installation. It will be a fun project now that all my questions have been answered.
This is a great instructional video for DIYer's. Thank you for taking the time to go step by step. So many videos out there don't show each step like you did.
I do appreciate the effort you put into this video. I also reapect you for doing the work yourself . It looks amazing. Im a 63 year old DIY person, and I work like you. Carefully and methodically.
Great video. The pro videos usually make everything look so easy with never a mistake or worry about a particular step. This is real world with real angst like the rest of us feel, and then it turns out great. Congratulations.
Thanks. I'm not a pro, just an avid DIY'r. The goal of my videos are exactly that. Showing real life situations of how I attempt to do get stuff done on my own.
Ive literally watched hundreds of videos of stair newel and banisters and this was the best one! Thanks, it was extremely helpful for my stair, newel banister and baluster remodel.
Couple pointers from a pro. I will say you didn't do bad though! Better job than some "pros" around here 33 inches is low and would fail inspection in alot of states. 34-38" is code in the majority of states, but is sometimes measured from the riser, not the nosing. I personally measure from the nosing and run my rake rail at 36" Easy way to determine where to cut your post on rake rail, set your post where its going (notch included). Lay your level on the steps, mark the bottom of the level onto your post. Measure from the bottom of your post to the furthest point of your mark. (Say 7 inches). Now mark your post where you want the top of your rail. Pull your preferred rail height down from that mark (36" in my case). Mark there, then add that 7 inches on. Perfect everytime! I screw my rosettes to my handrail through the back, then drill a ½" hole in the rostte above the rail and fasten it to the wall, with glue. Plug that hole with a wood plug. Same on bottom I cut my rail on the angle, let it but the bottom of the newel post while its laying on the wall cap. Let it go long past the wall and mark it. Subtract the difference if your post is thicker on the bottom like yours is. Check the wall for plumb though, may need to adjust your cut longer or shorter. Lastly, use glue on everything! Subfloor adhesive is my favorite, and will give you a rock solid install, especially on newel posts. I also glue my wall caps, balusters in rail, rail to post, everything 😂
I would have just used a circular saw. Just because in my early years it was all I had. I also remember using my hand saw. I probably needed a new blade for my 8 1/4 “ worm gear. I bought this saw used and it was used a lot before I got it. It was my only saw for almost my first 10 years as a carpenter. I did have a jig-saw. I bought a used radial-arm saw that I used to set on horses when needed on a job and did rip and cross cutting with it. Things are really easier as far as tools go. Even with all the batteries, two chop saws, small light table saw and every tool you could need on my truck I still resort to my electric 8 1/4” skill worm gear for some cuts.In 1970 when I bought it I remember thinking how lucky I was to have such a modern tool. I must be getting old.
When cutting your Newell post angle cut at the bottom, you should have put a board 2x4 against your fence, this would have pushed the bottom of your Newell post out, so that you could use the whole depth of your blade and then you could have pulled your saw almost to where the blade hit your end mark. Same with dealing with the piece of trim. You could have cut a piece of waste pine so that it was the same thickness as the trim piece on your Newell post. Put this cut piece under the end of the Newell post and then clamp everything together and your Newell post would sit level to the saw. OK, my bad.. I just continued watching the video and you figured out the board against the fence idea when you did the third cut. That is exactly what I was talking about above.
Nice work! DId you fill your counterbore holes afterward? Such as with a wood plug, or putty? I am in the middle of this too and finding the zip bolts and rail bolts to be challenging
Mike. Saw this video and your the greatest. But need to know what size of blade you are using. I have a 12 “ blade on my miter saw it’s too big. Did you use a 10” blade.
Ever notice how all the critics pretend they can do better? Want to bet they couldn’t get the same results? I too would make multiple cuts because each wrong one means you’re buying another length of handrail. How do you like your Hercules tools?
That Hercules Miter saw is great. Basically their tools are clones of DeWalt. I bought it a few years ago along with the matching stand before inflation when nuts. I was starting an enormous Trex Deck project and really needed the compound capabilities. I didn't have high hopes for the blade that came with it. So I got a quality Diablo blade for my Trex cuts. But I used the stock Hercules blade for all the lumber. As you can see it is still going strong even for finer clean cuts. I have a few other of their plug in electric tools. All have served me great. I would have tried the Hercules line of cordless tools if I wasn't already so committed to Makita. I have a slew of Makitas with interchangeable batteries for all those tools. I didn't want to have a second set of batteries and chargers for the Hercules line too.
I made it match my railings on the staircase going from the first to second floor which was done by the "pros" when the house was built. A minimum requirement makes no sense. Whadda ya gonna do? Install a a railing 7 feet high off the stairs and claim "I met the minimum requirement"? Of course it's somewhat personal preference.
@@keithcastleberry3993 Not Oak. Being that I was painting it, I just used a cheaper pine rosette. But Yes, I still drilled a pilot. Even when using those No-Split construction screws, I do.
I got like $200.00 for a straight run 1st to 2nd flr set post, drill holes in rail & treads fit easment together . One day if your gonna make any money at all
I hate those cheap ass newel posts. Not even solid oak, made out of 1x1 material surrounded by a 1/16th inch oak panel. Cheaply made, bad to work with. Hollow on the inside of some them. I would.neber recommend this product
Thank you for explaining and showing every step so clearly and concisely. Thanks to this video I feel more confident about tackling my upcoming stair rail installation. It will be a fun project now that all my questions have been answered.
This is a great instructional video for DIYer's. Thank you for taking the time to go step by step. So many videos out there don't show each step like you did.
Happy to help.
I do appreciate the effort you put into this video. I also reapect you for doing the work yourself . It looks amazing. Im a 63 year old DIY person, and I work like you. Carefully and methodically.
Thanks for posting such a thorough video. Very helpful for installing my own newel post and hand rail!
Great video. The pro videos usually make everything look so easy with never a mistake or worry about a particular step. This is real world with real angst like the rest of us feel, and then it turns out great. Congratulations.
Thanks. I'm not a pro, just an avid DIY'r. The goal of my videos are exactly that. Showing real life situations of how I attempt to do get stuff done on my own.
Ive literally watched hundreds of videos of stair newel and banisters and this was the best one! Thanks, it was extremely helpful for my stair, newel banister and baluster remodel.
Comments like this mean so much. Thank you for the compliment. Glad my efforts in making these videos are helping someone.
Couple pointers from a pro. I will say you didn't do bad though! Better job than some "pros" around here
33 inches is low and would fail inspection in alot of states. 34-38" is code in the majority of states, but is sometimes measured from the riser, not the nosing. I personally measure from the nosing and run my rake rail at 36"
Easy way to determine where to cut your post on rake rail, set your post where its going (notch included). Lay your level on the steps, mark the bottom of the level onto your post. Measure from the bottom of your post to the furthest point of your mark. (Say 7 inches). Now mark your post where you want the top of your rail. Pull your preferred rail height down from that mark (36" in my case). Mark there, then add that 7 inches on. Perfect everytime!
I screw my rosettes to my handrail through the back, then drill a ½" hole in the rostte above the rail and fasten it to the wall, with glue. Plug that hole with a wood plug. Same on bottom
I cut my rail on the angle, let it but the bottom of the newel post while its laying on the wall cap. Let it go long past the wall and mark it. Subtract the difference if your post is thicker on the bottom like yours is. Check the wall for plumb though, may need to adjust your cut longer or shorter.
Lastly, use glue on everything! Subfloor adhesive is my favorite, and will give you a rock solid install, especially on newel posts. I also glue my wall caps, balusters in rail, rail to post, everything 😂
home depot trip is in order for some longer drill bits....love your patience.
I watched 10 videos but none explained how to do this nearly as good as your video…got my post in tonight..railings and balusters tomorrow…thanks man!
Thanks so much for the kind words. Comments like these give me motivation to continue making these kind of videos.
I was rooting for you the whole way. How exciting! Love it when things go well. 😅😅
A few times I was stressed but you did great.
Bro!!! You have the patience of Job! 😂 (Job in the Bible) Bless you!
Love the Biblical reference. Thank You!
Great job and video!! I’m going to follow it to install my post!! 👍💯
Awesome! Thank you for the comment and watching the video.
Code where I’m at is 34”-37” to top of rail from nosing on the rakes(I do 38” on my flat runs)but you got some good techniques for sure
Thank You sir. Very kind.
Great video! I'm about to do this exact type of install and have been scratching my head how to cut the newel to height
Thanks for watching and commenting. Good luck with your install.
Great explanation!
I would have just used a circular saw. Just because in my early years it was all I had. I also remember using my hand saw. I probably needed a new blade for my 8 1/4 “ worm gear. I bought this saw used and it was used a lot before I got it. It was my only saw for almost my first 10 years as a carpenter. I did have a jig-saw. I bought a used radial-arm saw that I used to set on horses when needed on a job and did rip and cross cutting with it. Things are really easier as far as tools go. Even with all the batteries, two chop saws, small light table saw and every tool you could need on my truck I still resort to my electric 8 1/4” skill worm gear for some cuts.In 1970 when I bought it I remember thinking how lucky I was to have such a modern tool. I must be getting old.
No kidding , that's the correct way of doing things .
When cutting your Newell post angle cut at the bottom, you should have put a board 2x4 against your fence, this would have pushed the bottom of your Newell post out, so that you could use the whole depth of your blade and then you could have pulled your saw almost to where the blade hit your end mark. Same with dealing with the piece of trim. You could have cut a piece of waste pine so that it was the same thickness as the trim piece on your Newell post. Put this cut piece under the end of the Newell post and then clamp everything together and your Newell post would sit level to the saw.
OK, my bad.. I just continued watching the video and you figured out the board against the fence idea when you did the third cut. That is exactly what I was talking about above.
Thanks😊
We all can’t be Larry Haun but good work!
well since he was a framer...
Nice work! DId you fill your counterbore holes afterward? Such as with a wood plug, or putty? I am in the middle of this too and finding the zip bolts and rail bolts to be challenging
Yes, I used both plugs and putty. Then sanded them flush and painted.
Excellent
Mike. Saw this video and your the greatest. But need to know what size of blade you are using. I have a 12 “ blade on my miter saw it’s too big. Did you use a 10” blade.
If definitely a 12” blade on the saw seen in this video.
Ever notice how all the critics pretend they can do better? Want to bet they couldn’t get the same results? I too would make multiple cuts because each wrong one means you’re buying another length of handrail.
How do you like your Hercules tools?
That Hercules Miter saw is great. Basically their tools are clones of DeWalt. I bought it a few years ago along with the matching stand before inflation when nuts. I was starting an enormous Trex Deck project and really needed the compound capabilities. I didn't have high hopes for the blade that came with it. So I got a quality Diablo blade for my Trex cuts. But I used the stock Hercules blade for all the lumber. As you can see it is still going strong even for finer clean cuts.
I have a few other of their plug in electric tools. All have served me great. I would have tried the Hercules line of cordless tools if I wasn't already so committed to Makita. I have a slew of Makitas with interchangeable batteries for all those tools. I didn't want to have a second set of batteries and chargers for the Hercules line too.
As far as I know it's supposed to be 34" minimum it's not up to personal preference. But at least u said check ur local codes.
I made it match my railings on the staircase going from the first to second floor which was done by the "pros" when the house was built. A minimum requirement makes no sense. Whadda ya gonna do? Install a a railing 7 feet high off the stairs and claim "I met the minimum requirement"? Of course it's somewhat personal preference.
you put the newel post on top of the flooring? Ouch!
Oh the madness! Call the DIY SVU hotline. I should be doing hard time.
No glue? That's a bold choice.
BOLD! Like a morning cup of coffee? Real daring choice.
Sir did you also use a wood plug for the top of the hand rail where you screw it to the wall? Thank you
Yes, I did. But being that it is not as visible, you could get away with a little putty.
I assume you put a pilot hole through the oak rosate(?) at the top rail prior to final screwing? I would worry about splitting.
@@keithcastleberry3993 Not Oak. Being that I was painting it, I just used a cheaper pine rosette. But Yes, I still drilled a pilot. Even when using those No-Split construction screws, I do.
I got like $200.00 for a straight run 1st to 2nd flr set post, drill holes in rail & treads fit easment together . One day if your gonna make any money at all
Some of my 1st installs were pre mitre saw,
AMATURE
But can he build a spiral staircase without use nails or screws 😮
No offense though he is indeed a craftsman 😅
🤦🏻♂️ that piece of 2 x 4 glue it together to the post
Hope this guy isn't getting paid by the hour 😢
He is not working, he is teaching. That by it self consumes some brain performance when you have to do both at same time.
Don’t be an a-hole
Definetly union.
Oh your that guy…
You get paid by the hour...youre cheating urself out of time and $
I do? I am? That's news to me. Love to know who's paying 'me' to do work on my own house. But thanks for watching.
Any Mexican would have been fired by now😮
I hate those cheap ass newel posts. Not even solid oak, made out of 1x1 material surrounded by a 1/16th inch oak panel. Cheaply made, bad to work with. Hollow on the inside of some them. I would.neber recommend this product
shut up. it's what 99 percent of finish carpenters prefer to use.