One of these was very badly fitted in my home by a cowboy carpenter. No access was left for future adjustments to the hangers, a few years afterwards I had to work out where screws etc were hidden under paint, dig filler out to get to them, unscrew & dismantle & remove trim above the door on one side to finally be able to adjust the hanger that had become loose causing the door to drop one end so you could see over it. Now reassembled after readjusting the hanger but with a maintenence hatch that ensures both hangers are fully accessible. It was also fitted so that the door didn't go completely in the wall but sticks out at least 5"!!
It would help if you would have shown the construction of the stud wall , thus showing the dimensions of the timber used , for example is it a 3x2 stud wall or a 4x2 stud wall ? and also the bare opening required in the construction of the wall , also what covers the header track ? but overall a good video
Hi Daniel, the design of the Pocket Door Kit is designed around using 45mm x 95mm C16 or CLS timber studs. This is shown in the fitting instructions document which is provided with the kit. The bare opening required in the construction of the wall is 'twice the door width + 30mm' x 'door height + 85mm' - again this is in the fitting instructions. The header track is covered by plasterboard when finishing off the wall. If you need any further help, please let us know. Many thanks P C Henderson
@@Pchenderson I have one of these and I can’t see how to finish the plasterboard at the opening of the pocket part of the door without it looking bodged. Any tips? Same for round the opening of the slider rail..
@@Pchenderson If everything is in the fitting instruction booklet then what is the need for this video as well. Isnt this in the instructions? Not helpful, that you cannot provide visual representation for the stud wall. Many of us are DIYers and you are shutting down that market by not having detailed videos.
@@kuldude9211 thanks for your comments, we appreciate all feedback. This video was filmed in a studio setting therefore we show a wall which is universal and hopefully useful to the majority of people who are following our videos. We have both fitting instructions and installation videos to help anyone fitting our products in their homes. If we can be of any further assistance please contact our technical department on 0191 3770701. P C Henderson
Good! But... I wouldn't screw the floor brackets onto a floating floor. If the floor has any movement, it could cause the floor boards to buckle up. Cut a channel through the floor in the place where the "pocket" will be. Fill with a strip of plywood if need be, and leave the floor planks unhindered.
Many thanks for your comment, you are correct in what you say however for the purpose of the installation video the floor brackets were screwed into a temporary floor.
@@Pchenderson I've installed many of these but here in Florida I can't even find 1. Lowes n home depot look at me like have 3 heads. They never heard of a pocket door kit. What they stock Is a pre-built n they want $105 for it n $99 for just a blank 6 panel door. In ny the kit was $50 n the blank was $39. Do you know how much the kit cost, I'm sure they went up.
Hi we have this exact pocket kit but we also have a stop at the end of the track with a metal hook and a grey lug that sits between the door stoops any video on those?
Good afternoon, It sounds like you are describing our 601H clip stop, is that correct? Installation of this is shown at 09:30 on the video. Many thanks, Kate
Hi Benj, yes this should be no problem. There's two ways of doing this - one way would be to install the kit as normal and then shave some height off the door to match your raised floor level. Alternatively you could mount the kits onto blocks so as to bring the whole kit up to the finished floor level. We would personally advise the second option but obviously this is entirely up to you. Many thanks, P C Henderson
The brackets that go on the floor, I think they are the door guides, can that be screwed to the base floor or does it need to. Be the finished floor. Also can the frame be cut down to size as I don't need the height. And where could I buy some toilet door locks?
where you say screw the door stop to the frame to stop the door hitting the wall that's a bit confusing as the door needs to close flush with the wall ? Also would have been nice to see the finishing trim kit installed to conceal the running gear etc....
Hi Daniel, the bottom door stop is to help prevent the bottom of the door kicking if slammed open, however the distance travelled is controlled by the stop which is in the track. Unfortunately this kit does not include a finishing trim kit as specialise in sliding and folding door hardware, this should be sourced from elsewhere. Many thanks P C Henderson
Good Afternoon, We think this could just be due to the surrounding wall being a staged environment - and so some movement may have occurred - resulting in the gap. Many thanks P C Henderson Ltd
Watching him use drill, particularly a 2 inch hole saw was excruciating lol. Why do they never actually use a joiner to make these vids instead of a random guy from the office with a boat level.
Poor video. Would be good to see how you finish off the walls with plasterboard and how you finish off the edges. No doubt you just leave that bit to someone else?? The hard bit.
Hi Paul, thanks for getting in touch. As a manufacturer of sliding door hardware (we don't supply doors or any other finishing materials) our videos focus on the installation of our products only. There's a number of ways to finish off a pocket door, depending on taste and requirements, and so we leave this completely up to the installer. Hope this helps.
One of these was very badly fitted in my home by a cowboy carpenter. No access was left for future adjustments to the hangers, a few years afterwards I had to work out where screws etc were hidden under paint, dig filler out to get to them, unscrew & dismantle & remove trim above the door on one side to finally be able to adjust the hanger that had become loose causing the door to drop one end so you could see over it. Now reassembled after readjusting the hanger but with a maintenence hatch that ensures both hangers are fully accessible.
It was also fitted so that the door didn't go completely in the wall but sticks out at least 5"!!
It would help if you would have shown the construction of the stud wall , thus showing the dimensions of the timber used , for example is it a 3x2 stud wall or a 4x2 stud wall ? and also the bare opening required in the construction of the wall , also what covers the header track ? but overall a good video
Hi Daniel, the design of the Pocket Door Kit is designed around using 45mm x 95mm C16 or CLS timber studs. This is shown in the fitting instructions document which is provided with the kit. The bare opening required in the construction of the wall is 'twice the door width + 30mm' x 'door height + 85mm' - again this is in the fitting instructions. The header track is covered by plasterboard when finishing off the wall.
If you need any further help, please let us know.
Many thanks
P C Henderson
@@Pchenderson I have one of these and I can’t see how to finish the plasterboard at the opening of the pocket part of the door without it looking bodged. Any tips? Same for round the opening of the slider rail..
@@Pchenderson If everything is in the fitting instruction booklet then what is the need for this video as well. Isnt this in the instructions? Not helpful, that you cannot provide visual representation for the stud wall. Many of us are DIYers and you are shutting down that market by not having detailed videos.
@@kuldude9211 thanks for your comments, we appreciate all feedback. This video was filmed in a studio setting therefore we show a wall which is universal and hopefully useful to the majority of people who are following our videos. We have both fitting instructions and installation videos to help anyone fitting our products in their homes. If we can be of any further assistance please contact our technical department on 0191 3770701.
P C Henderson
The hanger ears should face the end of the tracks to engage with the stops, as per the manual, not the curved end as described here.
How come it doesn’t show how to plasterboard and trim out door 🤷♂️17:51 12-10-24
Fair enough
Good! But... I wouldn't screw the floor brackets onto a floating floor. If the floor has any movement, it could cause the floor boards to buckle up. Cut a channel through the floor in the place where the "pocket" will be. Fill with a strip of plywood if need be, and leave the floor planks unhindered.
Many thanks for your comment, you are correct in what you say however for the purpose of the installation video the floor brackets were screwed into a temporary floor.
@@Pchenderson I've installed many of these but here in Florida I can't even find 1. Lowes n home depot look at me like have 3 heads. They never heard of a pocket door kit. What they stock Is a pre-built n they want $105 for it n $99 for just a blank 6 panel door.
In ny the kit was $50 n the blank was $39.
Do you know how much the kit cost, I'm sure they went up.
Hi we have this exact pocket kit but we also have a stop at the end of the track with a metal hook and a grey lug that sits between the door stoops any video on those?
Good afternoon,
It sounds like you are describing our 601H clip stop, is that correct? Installation of this is shown at 09:30 on the video.
Many thanks,
Kate
Can the kit be installed onto floorboards and then laminate flooring installed later?
Hi Benj, yes this should be no problem. There's two ways of doing this - one way would be to install the kit as normal and then shave some height off the door to match your raised floor level. Alternatively you could mount the kits onto blocks so as to bring the whole kit up to the finished floor level. We would personally advise the second option but obviously this is entirely up to you. Many thanks, P C Henderson
The popup link at the end totally blocked the finger pull installation.
Thanks for your comment Nick, we will look into this.
The brackets that go on the floor, I think they are the door guides, can that be screwed to the base floor or does it need to. Be the finished floor.
Also can the frame be cut down to size as I don't need the height.
And where could I buy some toilet door locks?
where you say screw the door stop to the frame to stop the door hitting the wall that's a bit confusing as the door needs to close flush with the wall ? Also would have been nice to see the finishing trim kit installed to conceal the running gear etc....
Hi Daniel, the bottom door stop is to help prevent the bottom of the door kicking if slammed open, however the distance travelled is controlled by the stop which is in the track. Unfortunately this kit does not include a finishing trim kit as specialise in sliding and folding door hardware, this should be sourced from elsewhere.
Many thanks
P C Henderson
Why is there a gap at the top left when the door is shut at the beginning of this video ?
Good Afternoon,
We think this could just be due to the surrounding wall being a staged environment - and so some movement may have occurred - resulting in the gap.
Many thanks
P C Henderson Ltd
That's the first thing I spotted too. You would expect that there will be no gaps when the door is shut.
Someone buy that man a ratcheting screw driver
Or he could have just used the drill!!! Lol
Use your drill to drive the screws!!!! Lol
pro trick : you can watch movies at flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching lots of of movies lately.
@Dexter Gavin definitely, I've been using flixzone} for months myself :)
You don’t need to show him manually screwing every flaming screw in. That was painful to watch but will still help me fitting one
Hi Joseph, glad it well help with the fitting of our kit. If you have any queries - please don't hesitate to contact us.
This was super tough to watch
He had a drill but didn't use it???!!! Lol.
Does anyone other than myself actually use a sharp pencil anymore????
Watching him use drill, particularly a 2 inch hole saw was excruciating lol. Why do they never actually use a joiner to make these vids instead of a random guy from the office with a boat level.
Poor video. Would be good to see how you finish off the walls with plasterboard and how you finish off the edges. No doubt you just leave that bit to someone else?? The hard bit.
Hi Paul, thanks for getting in touch. As a manufacturer of sliding door hardware (we don't supply doors or any other finishing materials) our videos focus on the installation of our products only. There's a number of ways to finish off a pocket door, depending on taste and requirements, and so we leave this completely up to the installer. Hope this helps.
Sharpen yer pencil mate.
Thanks. Looks like he forgot his driver.