VW Beetle NIGHTMARE Muffler Install and a Proper Distributor!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- #VWBeetle #VWService #VWMuffler
VW Classic Beetle Muffler Install, Petronix Surefire Distributor Install, and Fan Adjustment!
Hi Everyone! In this final 1969 VW Beetle episode, I install a new muffler that goes poorly, fix that screaming fan and install a new Pertronix Flamethrower Distributor.
Enjoy!
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The Distributor: amzn.to/3jfPDoe
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Hi Everyone! In this final 1969 VW Beetle episode, I install a new muffler that goes poorly, fix that screaming fan and install a new Pertronix Flamethrower Distributor.
Enjoy!
That Timing light: amzn.to/35iSeJr
The Distributor: amzn.to/3jfPDoe
Why didn't you install muffler paste on the joints to preclude leaks?
Hi Jerry, I would have done that if need be, but, surprisingly (amazingly) there were no leaks! It was actually noticeably quieter than the one I took off (which did have a few leaks).
Alls well that ends well I suppose... F
Fran, my heat riser tubes are 100% NOT clogged, but they do not get hot. Still I bought new ones and they need a lot an Yanky Ingenuity to get them (the new ones) to fit. Should the left side heat riser gasket, or the right side, have a smaller opening than the other to get hot air flowing, or is that a sign of a failed muffler?
Normally the vacuum line between the carburettor and the vacuum canister consists of a metal tube and two short pieces of hose. The pipe has sort of an elbow with its highest point above the fuel level in the float chamber. I believe this is done so that no fuel can flow into the vacuum canister. Like the one on my ‘69 Thing: tinyurl.com/y5phplud
Hedi que no hase mejor el avance el distribuidor centrifugo que el que le instalaste al final de avance por vasio?. Saludos
Your muffler experience is exactly why I started my VW repair TH-cam channel. Poor quality parts! So frustrating! You need to send this video to Empi.
Supposedly EMPI is under new management and they were on a quest to improve the quality of their parts; which is a very welcome proposition.
Installing my new Empi muffler on a 72 Super was a real PITA too..
This is why I avoid buying Empi parts.
Distributor timing with this type of distributor is this- set max mechanical advance with vacuum disconnected and plugged should be 28-32 BTDC. That is the most advance the distributor will provide at full throttle. Next hook up the vacuum line again and check the max advance it should be the original plus another 8-10 degrees or roughly 40BTDC. This is what the vacuum does for you while cruising part throttle which is high vacuum condition. When you floor vacuum goes down and advance goes to the full mechanical side back toy where it was max set(28-32).
3 years later your comment not only helped me to understand the specs of timing my Bug, but it helped me with the advance, even better.
Just wanted to say thank you. Thank you
I think you have connected the vacuum line to wrong port on that carburetor. The port where it is now connected is for DVDA distributor retard function.
The vacuum advance connection for SVDA is the one above the idle mixture adjustment screws on the left side of the carburetor.
Please look at:
www.volkzbitz.com/34pict-3---4-and-h30-31-adjustments.html
This person is correct.
Yes I saw that also, and she retweeked the timing after the vacume line was hooked in. The reason the timing was different was probably because the vacume advance was nudging it. Cruising at maximum vacume it should pull about 40°.
Well over 20 yrs ago I struggled with the exhausts on Beetles and Vans, they never fitted, I 've attacked them with lump hammers, shut one side of the pipes in the vice and swung on the others. You wouldn't mind but the actual dimensions of the engines never changes, it can't be rocket science to make them using a jig?
Funny, it does change with temperature... On the 911 the engine can widen almost a quarter of an inch but the exhaust system is designed to adjust. But, yes... I'd love to see the car they used for a jig ;)
@@HeidiandFranny there isn’t a car, they are made on a dirt floor in China by a 9 year old with a spot welder and a hammer.......he has a photo in front of him for reference. And a stack of “empi” labels behind him to lick and apply.
In the next room is the blister pack operation.
Loving the channel 👍
The commentary is perfect, no tech babble.
Franny you have a soothing voice.
You'd be great telling everyone keep calm the ship is only sinking 🤣❤🤣
Keep the videos coming.
Thanks! Will do.
I have better luck with the ERNST german brand when they are available
when available, that was the thing here, you went to the supplier and had what they had , they were so cheap , you sort of accepted they fitted rubbish
Well I did a few beetle muflers in the past, and don't spend too much money on original muflers becouse they always give you a ficht before theyre on
EMPI is crap. The hassle is not worth saving a few bucks. I enjoy your walk-throughs. Very helpful for me. I like the way you think/talk through the various VW problems. Keep up the good work.
I tend to agree ;) Thanks.
You provide better explanations than anyone else on TH-cam for VW’s. Thanks for your videos.
Thanks so much!
There's always that one part that should be easy but turns out to be a mission haha
Amen lol
I really enjoy how you explain what you are doing, and you make everything seem much simpler than it really is. Well done as usual!
lol! Thanks!
Hi. Great video as always, I have a Porsche 356 so much of this is relevant. One suggestion, my old apprentice master taught me to always add some copper slip grease to the exhaust studs in the thought that the person coming along behind you to replace would thank you and sometimes it’s you and you think thank god I did this. Love the videos darlin even as a time served engineer.
Great tip! Thanks for that :)
Another great video! I’m also working on a 69 Beetle on my channel 👍
Great job. I don’t even have a VW 😀
I've owned VW's for over 40 years of almost every type, and we can ALL relate to your muffler fitting issues. I swear, l don't believe any 2 VW mufflers are the same. It's almost as if every single muffler is manufactured in a different country, in a different plant, using different measurements. They NEVER fit from one vehicle to another. I've got 2 old 40hp bus mufflers (both NOS), and one of them lines up pretty well, while the other is WAY the hell off!
Electronic dizzy will leave you on the side of the road. I prefer stock. Going slowly out of tune is better. Tune up every 3,000 miles is part of the fun!
Shouldn't you be swapping out that coil for a high voltage one if you're using that flamethrower dissy?
I would expect the muffler install to be a simple job: couple of bolts, seals, a bracket, but I wasn't expecting this for sure. That fan belt is really close to the bolt on the distributor, you have to be really careful. It reminds me of a mechanic who was working on the Volvo Penta MD7A in my dad's boat while it was running. The mechanic ended up in the emergency room. Luckily they were able to save his finger. Looking forward to the work on the 911 :)
I dread muffler work... Either they don't come off (like the 911) or they don't go on (like the Beetle) or both ;) Always scary adjusting the engine while running. I do that once and then statically after that. I did finally have my hair back though ;)
Well done Franny! Persistence pays off in the end. Having owned classic Beetles over 40 years ago I really love this series.
Thanks!
Don't know if that part was OEM or Chinese aftermarket but my experience is the same whenever having to use aftermarket products. Usually very poor quality.
Hi Franny - What a great channel you have ! Really enjoy seeing all your videos. Just thought I should mention that you ideally need one of those metal J-tube (looks like an upside down J when installed) between the vacuum canister and the carb, to stop fuel backing up into the cannister. (the fuel can damage the diaphram) They are basically just metal vacuum lines with a kink. Can send a link if you need the part. Cheers, from the UK. Regards, Jon.
Thanks for the tip! I'll pass it on to the owner.
Worked for a VW Porsche dealer in 69 and never installed a new muffler that didn’t require some prying of the manifold heater tube.
Please add a metal tube between the vacuum advanced and the carburetor. Like vw did. Videos are available on how to do it.
The car is gone, but I'll mention it to the owner. Thanks!
You deserve a medal 🏅 for patience
I’d have set it on fire 🔥
hopefully do a follow up video to correct some things. Vac line connected to wrong port. No steel line with upward bend. Timing setting way too high etc. Thanks
I think your vacuum hose should have a loop that goes above the carb and back down to the distributor. The metal oem ones did this so gas doesn’t find its was into the distributor.
Where was the empi muffler made? China or Mexico?
You’re lucky to have a car that wasn’t exposed to rust. I did my vw work in Pittsburgh and we never see heater boxes that weren’t rusted out.
I had a 1971 Volkswagen Super Beetle in this exact color with the "Automatic Stickshift" for 11 years from 1978 to 1989 and I just loved it, even though its zero to sixty time was 60 seconds! It was barely limping along by the time I sold it in 1989 for $400.00. I still wish I had a pristine beetle with that style tail lamps. (I really don't like the newer round tail-lights). I replaced my muffler during an entire engine rebuild in 1979, and I went through EXACTLY this difficulty that you are discussing here now.
My new Volkswagen is MUCH better: it is a 2017 911 Porsche Carrera S Cabriolet with the 7 speed manual in Sapphire Blue. But I still miss my 1971 Beetle!
This series is a prime example of the class and skill that is Franny! The whole work of Heidi and Franny is a great example of how to be better people! Keep up the excellent work you two.
Thanks John! You always have the sweetest comments :)
@@HeidiandFranny You both always deserve them!
Great video as usual. I know its easy to say but you should have taken that EMPI muffler back its not fit for purpose. EMPI parts are very poor but sometimes all that is available.
Thanks for the video, very informative! My son and I are working on our 69 Ghia that we saved from the car crusher 👍✌️ See you on the road 👍
So refreshing to have a really knowledgable woman doing the mechanics on Vdubs.....well done Franny ! Had my Beetle 21 years now and still love driving and working on Abraham ! Will be going over all the vids I've missed.........you're never too old to learn x
VW parts never fit correctly especially exhaust systems. gotta re tweek the bends to get them to fit properly.
Bless your heart! (A small milling machine could have cleaned those muffler flanges up, and a TIG welder to re-align...)
A lot can be said about owning an ole Ford model A. Fix them with a monkey wrench, hammer and a screwdriver.👍
Thanks for this video!! The way you present everything is spot on! As someone who used to own beetles 30 years ago, and now have a newly acquired 1967, your videos have been so helpful in getting my brain back into working on them! I just bought this distributor today. Thanks again!
Franny, 36 degrees is too much timing on that engine, 32 degrees is usually the safest you would want to run.. anything more than that you could burn holes in tops of pistons.
I bet you are right... When I got the car originally it was set to 40deg. Probably should tone it back a tad.
Times two. I usually run mine at at no more than 30 degrees max otherwise it’s easy to burn valves and pistons.
The extra 10° of advance only comes in with full vacume, e.g. cruising with very little throttle. When cruising the carb is running lean which makes the power piont of the combustion late. Hence at 40° advance the power part of the stroke will be 30 to 32°. That is why the motor will not ping at 40° advanced on low throttle. I hope you can understand the way I wrote this.
@@Paulman50 No, an air cooled vw should never have anything higher than 32deg at total max advance, and that goes for the 009,SVDA and DVDA... This is also referenced by VW and The Bentley Manual... Which is the VW mechanical bible... I should add I’ve been wrenching on these things for the last 30 years, so I’ve seen a thingy or so...
@@coripuckett5596 if you max out at 32°, why would you want to put a vacume advance distributer on for. Because the feature of the vacume advance distributer is to pull an extra 10° of timing on top of the static 30° timing.
This is the reason for the mach between the 34pic3 carb and the vacume advance distributer.
I used the same muffler and had the same issue. I ended up using a broomstick stuck in the muffler's flange and tweaked it until it lined up. Love repro stuff! ;-)
Is that a fuel filter in the engine bay of a beetle? Thats a big fire hazard. i always learned place them in the front under the feul tank (sorry if i spelled some things wrong) i love your videos!
They did not have an aftermarket filter when new. The tank and pump had filters
Those EMPI parts never really fit that great like the original German parts, your best bet is to get Wolfsburg West parts they're expensive but fit great. I really liked the bug series, hopefully he needs more work done in the future. I also noticed you put a fuel pressure regulator on the bug, what's your reason for that?
It is a bit of a long story (I did a video on it) but the long and short of it is that the new fuel pumps can't seem to be adjusted to the 2.6psi or so without compromising on flow. They put out more like 5psi which is too much for the needle and seat in the float valve and it can no longer control the flow. I show in the video that even with the car off, the pressure blows past the needle valve and dumps fuel into the intake manifold. Then when you go to start, it is terribly rich. If you shim or grind the pushrod to get the pressure down the flow will be so low that at cruising speed the engine will run very lean. The pressure regulator will bring the pressure down without compromising flow.
LOL DANG, I think that car lives there! If it wasnt for that car you wouldnt have half of your content.. EXCELLENT quality video
Hi! I just stumbled onto your channel!
& I gots a question.
See my little avatar?
The motor in it is a 1/2VW, literally sawn in half.
(It makes the nicest sound!)
This motor has points and I'd love to get rid of them.
Would this installation work on that motor (It's the 1600cc, rather, 1/2 of 1600cc)
Thanks!
Your instructions are very clear with good video.
It would be neat to own a VW, but dang it....I need an AC!
Absolutely superb. Thank you very much for such a clear explanation and helpful video. Genuinely learnt something today!
Don't worry about "putting too much stress on the intake manifold..." Just throw a couple of valiums into the the gas tank and it'll be okay!
The 009 is a horrible distributor. Its only good for drag racing or flat out driving.
A distributor with a proper curve and a vacuum advance really transforms the car. It has all the benefits without the drawbacks
great videos 👍love the vw stuff 😍 thank you for the help & motivation i need to work on my beetle 👍😍
Happy to help!
When it comes too the soo called dead spot most of the time it's not the 009 dizzy. Have you verified there are zero air leaks/vacuum leaks? Because I've run 009 dizzy my entire life,my father was a vw/porsche/audi mechanic and he swore by the 009. Also the vacuum pull dizzy will work better if your engine has air/vacuum leak. I never run a vacuum pull dizzy.
Hi Franny....great video...its been a LONG LONG time but I thought when setting the timing with a vacuum adv. Dist. You had to put the pulley on the TDC mark ? Not the 7 1/2 mark...i thought the 009 dist. gets timed with the pulley on the 7 1/2 ?
your installing a crap empi exhaust muffler........zero quality checks or alignment in manufacturing made in china!
Kick A$$ video ......Thanks for doing such a through job ;)
Cheers!!
Would have just been quicker to drop the engine, 8 mm, 4x 17 mm and a 10 mm and it drops out and a few screws, if this is a Mexican made muffler that's why you had issues, should have bought one from Brazil, they just fit.
Well maybe if the muller was made. Anyware other than China, it would have fit 100% better. Great video,I will used the distributor install part. I also had issues installing a empi type stock muffler . Had to do drill, cut etc.Thx,again !
I read somewhere that if you're running an electronic ignitor that you can't use the conventional timing marks and you have to time it by ear?
Obviously that wasn't the case with yours. So I'm wondering. I tried setting the timing on my 74 bug with what I presume is a 1600 DP and I can't get the timing marks close without the engine bogging down and running rough. If I set the distributor to where the engine sounds smooth, it'll idle great and rev just fine and it pulls good when driving it (with the exception of a little hesitation at takeoff) but the timing marks show the 7° mark to be almost an inch to the left of the case split.... This is my first time working on these and it has me really scratching my head. Also, when I shut it off it won't start back up without cranking for a bit with the throttle wide open. Once started it'll settle back to idle and sounds good and revs good. Thoughts, suggestions?
I've adjusted the valves to 6 thou, changed the plugs and wires, adjusted the carb (empi pic 3) checked for vacuum leaks. HELP! LOL
I have a 71 SB. If I change my 009 for this type of distributor, do I need to install a matching Pertronix coil? What about spark plug wires? Thanks
Hi Heide, is there a particular model of the Pertronix Distributor for my 1972 Beetle 1302S ? Where can my sister in New Jersey buy it ? And how much, more or less ?
Thank you for your help.
I have built 100s of vw engines and the other time I rum a vacuum pull dizzy is on automatic/autostick buses,type 3 or bugs
very good videos I use to have a 1971 super beetle ii was fun to work with it
That was a nice series thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
You should have never put that cheap aftermarket exhaust on it, Should have cleaned up the original and put it back on. The aftermarket weren't designed to fit properly, And by widening out the bolt holes you only open it up to leak later. I use to own that exact year and they are a pain, But only with the aftermarket mufflers. OE slides right on every time.
Dame I need your bad ass knowledge to help me with my sterling but it simple to work on not really worried but be nice to have your hands in on it because you know your stuff
You are tired of reading my nonsense, but it's order of operations. The intake manifolds to the heads connexion is critical. No leaks, and the metal gaskets can only be crushed once. Everything else needs to be bent to fit.
The mufflers are a PITA, and the carb/intake/carb base heating is equal nonsense. Many times it's a matter of putting stuff in a vise and bending it. Other times it's a big crow bar to get stuff lined up. Other times it's longer bolts to get the shorter bolts lined up... and then the longer bolts go in the coffee can....
Next time, pull the motor. Seriously, that job is so much easier with the motor out of the car. Pulling the motor in a 69 shouldn’t take you longer than 30 mins. How many hours did you waste?
it's amazing how a couple seemingly simple jobs can go awry! I remember exhaust work on my 71 Super. What a pain! I'm glad the fan noise was relatively easy. You're right about those 009 distributors. Not great in this application. It sounded so smooth afterwards. Great job Franny.
Thanks Judy!
Yep simple turn out harder,73 beetle
Really excellent work, yes aftermarket exhaust/manifolds are always a work out... I don't understand why so many fabricators have both incorrect dimensions or jigs they use to manufacture. I'm sure every installer would be reworking them. The electronic distributor is sweet!.
Thanks!
Franny I need to change my distributor clamp. It seems to be stripped. I can’t get it so lock fully into position it stays kinda loose. When you pulled that dist out was there anything holding that clamp to the car or could you have just lifted it right off ?
In the old days (60s and 70s) you could go to the VW dealers and buy any part for your car over the counter. All German parts that actually fit.
I’ve got VW beetle based trike and have had to replace the gear shifter as the pin at the end of the stick snapped. My genuine VW replacement shifter won’t fit into the linkage cup. Does anyone know if the shifter ball joint size is meant to be standard?
ain't that exhaust a nightmare! I had to clean the carbon out of the heat riser tube, ended up pulling the engine!!! PS what carb are you running on that car? Thanks. Carry on.
He'll o,, in 'vw you take off all wire of the coil and remove points inside distributor and condenser, just leave the rotor and cap with wires, connect to the coil secondary, from the dinamo/ generator D+ that its 30 dc volts connect to primary in the coil + on the other side will come - after pass the widing inside coil, connect that to choke solenoid in the carburetor, then 30 volt × coil equivalent 100.000 volts to spark plug, then u need to timing the engine go fire after topdeadcenter cause u know running cold fusion water don't need to eletrolit split when water will inject to cilynder with air will separate from hidrogen and nitrogen cause u fire on negative pressure, this cause to lighter gas such flow up to chamber then implosion will happen cold , rise,friction create heat then same like thunder in the sky light up and what is result water in end of circle,in nature sun heat air form white clouds sun heat water form hidrogen, two inert gases collide in negative pressure between cold and heat create friction litghng and thunder, energy an water just result,
He'll o,, in 'vw you take off all wire of the coil and remove points inside distributor and condenser, just leave the rotor and cap with wires, connect to the coil secondary, from the dinamo/ generator D+ that its 30 dc volts connect to primary in the coil + on the other side will come - after pass the widing inside coil, connect that to choke solenoid in the carburetor, then 30 volt × coil equivalent 100.000 volts to spark plug, then u need to timing the engine go fire after topdeadcenter cause u know running cold fusion water don't need to eletrolit split when water will inject to cilynder with air will separate from hidrogen and nitrogen cause u fire on negative pressure, this cause to lighter gas such flow up to chamber then implosion will happen cold , rise,friction create heat then same like thunder in the sky light up and what is result water in end of circle,in nature sun heat air form white clouds sun heat water form hidrogen, two inert gases collide in negative pressure between cold and heat create friction litghng and thunder, energy an water just result,
Its a bad reflection on the ability of the mechanic to have a problem working on a beetle. They are designed to be worked on by any backyard mechanic and are dead easy to fix just about anything. And it only take 30 minutes to drop the engine so thats the way to replace the muffler.
A lot of the modern day empi parts are Chinese junk, the quality is not that great, if it even fits right half of the time. There are other companies that make a better quality stock muffler that fits. I would if sent that muffler back. Great video.
Your issues have to do with empi. Get a German muffler lady. Would you put a Chinese muffler on a Porches?
My kind of lady. Your mechanical skills are amazing. 😅
I always find it funny that you upload videos just AFTER I do the work on my own car 😂
My beetle had a new exhaust fitted earlier this week as well and we had similar issues. I haven't had the greatest experience with EMPI so far but boy does it sound good
It really does sound much better, so there's that I suppose ;)
What was the name brand of the muffler? I hate it for you but I thought I was the only one who had this kind of problem! LOL
73 beetle all of sudden no power to dash lights,board nothing, replaced fuses check wires on fuse box new regulator, generator can coil be bad or short somewhere need help
where do i connect the vacuum line for distributor? i just bought a beetle today and i mine don't have a line. my carburator is weber dual port?
Your video got me up and running with my new Flame Thrower distributor in minutes. Great video.
That's great to hear! Thanks!
Is it possible to time it without the tester??? Because i dont currently own one and im trying to time my way out of time 73’ super beetle… or do you think i will need a tester?
You should have a "top loop" on the vacuum line. Made with metal line making a upside down U.
you should check the ohms rating of your coil petronix is very picky ,i have seen those things melt down with the wrong coil
My bus has twin carbs and has been set up on the rolling road but still spits and pops on exhaust and struggles in set off could that be 009 it also has electric ignition
What was wrong with the old muffler? It looked ok to me. I wonder who it was made by.
3:34 that’s why it doesn’t fit....”empi”.....it probably came in a blister pack ha ha ha.
Walker, listeritz are ones you don’t have to drill to make fit.
I bought a klokerholm and really had a time putting it on, but didn’t have to drill.
Check out the inside left...drivers side of that muffler.
The klockerholm ones don’t have the “Bernoulli principle “ tube. It’s build in the preheat pipe somehow inside....I don’t believe them....but it’s what they say.
Some do, some don’t.
Essentially it’s a tube, that the left peashooter has to be about a half inch from as it’s inserted into the muffler. This allows a vacuum to be made in the heat riser tube.
Allowing the hot exhaust to circulate right to left and preheat the carb.
If you have that exhaust off, take a 3/8 piece of zinc plated stranded cable, cut one end at a 45* angle, and weld its end so it won’t unfurl.
Then weld the other end about an inch....3 sides, so when the welds are ground will chuck up into a cordless drill.
Use the 45 degree end as a “bit” and with welding gloves on work that through the coked up heat riser tube, pray that it doesn’t bore through the the weak rusted spot....and don’t look up for you’ll get a face full of soot when drawn out.
It will really run nice if the intake charge is being warmed up proper.
And
You ought to talk the owner into buying the correct distributor, FP, and carb. They are all available...about $800 for all through Sparkzwerkz, and whatshisname......on Samba. The carb guy.....ohhhhh...can’t remember.......Volksbitz...that’s it.
That car would run like a scalded dog.....look correct,.....and...and..
You would have a customer that would need their points adjusted/ replaced. $$$ 😀😀
Thank you for the Great videos!
I would’ve cut the ends right out of the holes. That way you have a U-shaped cut out on each side.
A big problem is that EMPI muffler.
Normally you do not do that. It's best too remove the engine for that job
Fanny, was that a 34pic 3 carburetor on Lemon Drop?
where I can get 009 distributer elotronic? can u share.
What is the thing under the fuel filter? Do you not use the vacuum port on the side of the carb?
bend the hot air tubes a little , that;s all, no grind no drill method, when all bolts and nuts on intake and exhaust are loosely installed
But isn't it a difference from 009 to vacuum distributor
thats not the correct way to set timing on a VW beetle , you use a test light and its actually fairly simple
how much for that distributor 034 & where i cold get it.
A muffler install should be done with the engine out.
You should of used 2 nuts to lock on the stud and then put the exhaust in place instead of filing the hole.
Won't you be my neighbor? I could really use some help understanding timing better. There is just something I'm not grasping about it. Something not clicking for me. But this video DID give me a bit more grasp. I'm the kind that needs to know EVERY detail of something so I can dissect and really know it. Thanks for helping me to get closer. Nic.
How do you know signs of bad distributor also does it tick like valves
Send that muffler back, What a piece of crap.
Really nice work. I always enjoy the quality of your videos and the wonderful explanations that accompany them.
Thank you very much!
I dont think u want over 32° full advance