Hi Everyone! In this final 1969 VW Beetle episode, I install a new muffler that goes poorly, fix that screaming fan and install a new Pertronix Flamethrower Distributor. Enjoy! That Timing light: amzn.to/35iSeJr The Distributor: amzn.to/3jfPDoe
Hi Jerry, I would have done that if need be, but, surprisingly (amazingly) there were no leaks! It was actually noticeably quieter than the one I took off (which did have a few leaks). Alls well that ends well I suppose... F
Fran, my heat riser tubes are 100% NOT clogged, but they do not get hot. Still I bought new ones and they need a lot an Yanky Ingenuity to get them (the new ones) to fit. Should the left side heat riser gasket, or the right side, have a smaller opening than the other to get hot air flowing, or is that a sign of a failed muffler?
Normally the vacuum line between the carburettor and the vacuum canister consists of a metal tube and two short pieces of hose. The pipe has sort of an elbow with its highest point above the fuel level in the float chamber. I believe this is done so that no fuel can flow into the vacuum canister. Like the one on my ‘69 Thing: tinyurl.com/y5phplud
This series is a prime example of the class and skill that is Franny! The whole work of Heidi and Franny is a great example of how to be better people! Keep up the excellent work you two.
Distributor timing with this type of distributor is this- set max mechanical advance with vacuum disconnected and plugged should be 28-32 BTDC. That is the most advance the distributor will provide at full throttle. Next hook up the vacuum line again and check the max advance it should be the original plus another 8-10 degrees or roughly 40BTDC. This is what the vacuum does for you while cruising part throttle which is high vacuum condition. When you floor vacuum goes down and advance goes to the full mechanical side back toy where it was max set(28-32).
3 years later your comment not only helped me to understand the specs of timing my Bug, but it helped me with the advance, even better. Just wanted to say thank you. Thank you
EMPI is crap. The hassle is not worth saving a few bucks. I enjoy your walk-throughs. Very helpful for me. I like the way you think/talk through the various VW problems. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for this video!! The way you present everything is spot on! As someone who used to own beetles 30 years ago, and now have a newly acquired 1967, your videos have been so helpful in getting my brain back into working on them! I just bought this distributor today. Thanks again!
Well over 20 yrs ago I struggled with the exhausts on Beetles and Vans, they never fitted, I 've attacked them with lump hammers, shut one side of the pipes in the vice and swung on the others. You wouldn't mind but the actual dimensions of the engines never changes, it can't be rocket science to make them using a jig?
Funny, it does change with temperature... On the 911 the engine can widen almost a quarter of an inch but the exhaust system is designed to adjust. But, yes... I'd love to see the car they used for a jig ;)
@@HeidiandFranny there isn’t a car, they are made on a dirt floor in China by a 9 year old with a spot welder and a hammer.......he has a photo in front of him for reference. And a stack of “empi” labels behind him to lick and apply. In the next room is the blister pack operation.
So refreshing to have a really knowledgable woman doing the mechanics on Vdubs.....well done Franny ! Had my Beetle 21 years now and still love driving and working on Abraham ! Will be going over all the vids I've missed.........you're never too old to learn x
Loving the channel 👍 The commentary is perfect, no tech babble. Franny you have a soothing voice. You'd be great telling everyone keep calm the ship is only sinking 🤣❤🤣 Keep the videos coming.
I had a 1971 Volkswagen Super Beetle in this exact color with the "Automatic Stickshift" for 11 years from 1978 to 1989 and I just loved it, even though its zero to sixty time was 60 seconds! It was barely limping along by the time I sold it in 1989 for $400.00. I still wish I had a pristine beetle with that style tail lamps. (I really don't like the newer round tail-lights). I replaced my muffler during an entire engine rebuild in 1979, and I went through EXACTLY this difficulty that you are discussing here now. My new Volkswagen is MUCH better: it is a 2017 911 Porsche Carrera S Cabriolet with the 7 speed manual in Sapphire Blue. But I still miss my 1971 Beetle!
I used the same muffler and had the same issue. I ended up using a broomstick stuck in the muffler's flange and tweaked it until it lined up. Love repro stuff! ;-)
In the late 70's I replaced the muffler on my dad's 73 superbeetle. Even back then the replacement mufflers never fit correctly. It took me an entire day in 10 degree weather to get it in. I think the complex sheetmetal was tough to get to accurately fit. A lot of bending and pounding was needed. And lots of bolts! Great work, it might be fun to find a beetle to play with.
Franny, I love watching your videos. You have got to be the best teacher/explainer/mechanic I’ve ever seen on TH-cam when it comes to our favorite little german 4 bangers! Keep up the good work, and the videos! I show your videos to my girls, too so that they know their is no stigma that girls can’t work on cars! Thanks for all you do to show that ladies are just as good, if not better at doing their own wrenching!
On the new muffler slot the flanges that go to the engine. Just the top on each side. Worked best for me. Also lifted the heat riser enough to push in the gasket, a pair of channel locks.
Hi. Great video as always, I have a Porsche 356 so much of this is relevant. One suggestion, my old apprentice master taught me to always add some copper slip grease to the exhaust studs in the thought that the person coming along behind you to replace would thank you and sometimes it’s you and you think thank god I did this. Love the videos darlin even as a time served engineer.
Really excellent work, yes aftermarket exhaust/manifolds are always a work out... I don't understand why so many fabricators have both incorrect dimensions or jigs they use to manufacture. I'm sure every installer would be reworking them. The electronic distributor is sweet!.
hello franny,i really enjoy these beetle videos,we used to have a 1972 beetle with the 1300 cc,dual port engine,really like this car,my dad and i used to serviced ourselves,we had it for 30 yrs,very durable and practical car,rgards from the Philippines!
Best repair videos ever! She can actually articulate what she’s doing, unlike most videos, where the tech. Is umm , what’s this called again. No wasted time showing me how to remove a bolt, or ten! I can do that! Anyway, she knows her stuff. And is well prepared. Good job!
it's amazing how a couple seemingly simple jobs can go awry! I remember exhaust work on my 71 Super. What a pain! I'm glad the fan noise was relatively easy. You're right about those 009 distributors. Not great in this application. It sounded so smooth afterwards. Great job Franny.
Switch to dual carbs is the best thing a VW owner can do. Get rid of the crappy stock exhaust that have so much difficulty in getting to fit. Franny as far as caps go- both of those fit you would have to reorient the the wires,not a big deal. I cant talk many of my friends to switch to dual carbs let alone a casual viewer of classic VWs. Its a shame really. They are better in every way including gas mileage and performance. No need for a chokes either. I know many will not believe this but it is true. I live in the midwest and drive my bug in all weather unless there is salt on the road and car starts and drives without issue. Anyway always use never seize or copper grease when attaching exhaust nuts to studs or anything exhaust related. Half the battle working with exhausts is getting things loose. As always Franny you do great work and respect the process,fun to watch. Scott
Thanks Scott. Yup, the 356 had dual carbs. The VW was designed with a different philosophy and different price point so I get it. But the 356 is easier to get to run actually. ...and no choke ;)
I always find it funny that you upload videos just AFTER I do the work on my own car 😂 My beetle had a new exhaust fitted earlier this week as well and we had similar issues. I haven't had the greatest experience with EMPI so far but boy does it sound good
Just a couple things on the distributor. First of all the correct vacuum port to run the vacuum advance is on the left side of the carburetor. The port you used has way too much vacuum. Secondly, your car has a single port intake manifold, so most likely has a 30 PICT or H30/31 carburetor. The 30 PICT carbs don’t have enough vacuum pull for the SVDA distributors. I’ve had decent performance using the H30/31 carbs with that distributor. Lastly, timing is usually done with the vacuum port disconnected and set the maximum advance for about 30 degrees. Then, reconnect the vacuum hose and let the idle timing be wherever it lands.
So many companies seem to be competing to corner the market in reproduction body panels that fit perfectly. If only they'd put the same effort in to making stock exhausts that fit 'out of the box'. I had weeks of trial and error before I got mine to fit and seal correctly. After fitting and removing the exhaust half a dozen times; I worked out the trick getting the heat riser bolts in. I found it easiest to get the front left bolt started, then the front right and then use a pipe wrench on the riser flanges to twist the risers while starting the rear bolts (again - left first, then right). The final straw was the heater pods. I had to mix and match in the end. I removed the pods from the old and new exhausts and fitted the old pods on the new one. I hope I don't have to do this again for many years though.
Hi Franny, I would love to see the owner's first drive impression and how much he appreciates the fixes you have done. I hope he will be as impressed with your detective work as all of us following you out here are.
@@HeidiandFranny Those of us who drive these beautiful old cars take so much for granted and just accept that that noise coming from the back or the stiff gear shifter must be 'normal' for such an old car until someone like you comes along and says, "Hang on, what's that?" Your Beetle owner is very lucky and will get many more miles of enjoyment out of his car thanks to you. Not all mechanics would have taken the time and care to get things right the way that you did. Yes, it was like night and day but many mechanics would have just adjusted the brakes and sent him back home without him ever getting to find out how good the car could be. Great work!
something changed with the static distributor timing around 21:30. You can see the vacuum can has moved into the correct position without an explanation.
I think your vacuum hose should have a loop that goes above the carb and back down to the distributor. The metal oem ones did this so gas doesn’t find its was into the distributor. Where was the empi muffler made? China or Mexico? You’re lucky to have a car that wasn’t exposed to rust. I did my vw work in Pittsburgh and we never see heater boxes that weren’t rusted out.
I was considering an old bug to putz with in my golden years. After watching this video , I think not. Reminds me of the 68 bug I had years ago. Getting the right parts on the damn thing was impossible. But I gotta say, this women is an amazing mechanic. I suspect there’s an engineering degree laying around somewhere.
At a very young age I realised I had to control my temper. I did a great job until a few years ago, and then I tried putting a new muffler on my VW Westfalia. After spending hours fighting with it, I suddenly saw that I had beat it into a metal pancake with a hammer. I wish you a better outcome. Love your videos. Take care. 🖖
Great video as usual. I know its easy to say but you should have taken that EMPI muffler back its not fit for purpose. EMPI parts are very poor but sometimes all that is available.
My goodness, I wish I had found your channel sooner. I have to assume you have teaching in your background. If not, you missed your calling. Of course, your filming and editing are top shelf also. I am almost done phase one of rebuilding my Former Wife's MG-TD replica on a Ghia chassis. I have worked on cars my entire life but never a VW. They are a different bird. It began as rewiring it but quickly morphed to much more as the projects always do. I am about to change over to the complete Flameflrower system. This video was invaluable with your expertise. I will go back to watch the entire series in order to see how many mistakes I may have made. Phase two is a complete frame off and painting next winter. Right now I am attempting to complete my latest Jeep project. That I know in-depth! Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge so completely. Peace be with you always.
hopefully do a follow up video to correct some things. Vac line connected to wrong port. No steel line with upward bend. Timing setting way too high etc. Thanks
I would expect the muffler install to be a simple job: couple of bolts, seals, a bracket, but I wasn't expecting this for sure. That fan belt is really close to the bolt on the distributor, you have to be really careful. It reminds me of a mechanic who was working on the Volvo Penta MD7A in my dad's boat while it was running. The mechanic ended up in the emergency room. Luckily they were able to save his finger. Looking forward to the work on the 911 :)
I dread muffler work... Either they don't come off (like the 911) or they don't go on (like the Beetle) or both ;) Always scary adjusting the engine while running. I do that once and then statically after that. I did finally have my hair back though ;)
I think you have connected the vacuum line to wrong port on that carburetor. The port where it is now connected is for DVDA distributor retard function. The vacuum advance connection for SVDA is the one above the idle mixture adjustment screws on the left side of the carburetor. Please look at: www.volkzbitz.com/34pict-3---4-and-h30-31-adjustments.html
Yes I saw that also, and she retweeked the timing after the vacume line was hooked in. The reason the timing was different was probably because the vacume advance was nudging it. Cruising at maximum vacume it should pull about 40°.
Electronic dizzy will leave you on the side of the road. I prefer stock. Going slowly out of tune is better. Tune up every 3,000 miles is part of the fun!
Always love watching work being done on our beloved aircooled beauties. Exhaust work can be exhausting. Yeah, someone had to say it. I like how someone mentioned the vacuum advance shepherds crook thingy below. I have yet to find or fab one so I used a longer hose and looped it up and through the air cleaner clamp. Seems to work.
The rotor button should be pointing to the number 1 position on the distributor cap when the number 1 piston is at top dead center (on the compression stroke). The pistons come up two times during the combustion cycle. Once for the exhaust stroke and again on the compression stroke. The mechanical ignition timing should be set so that the rotor hits the corresponding cylinder on the compression stroke to ignite the air/fuel mixture.
just replaced my exhaust on my 75 beetle with a empi GT exhaust didnt fit gaskets were rubbish had to use a bottle jack to make it fit nice chrome but i am expecting it to rust quite soon.still it was fun and you have to be patient
Franny, 36 degrees is too much timing on that engine, 32 degrees is usually the safest you would want to run.. anything more than that you could burn holes in tops of pistons.
The extra 10° of advance only comes in with full vacume, e.g. cruising with very little throttle. When cruising the carb is running lean which makes the power piont of the combustion late. Hence at 40° advance the power part of the stroke will be 30 to 32°. That is why the motor will not ping at 40° advanced on low throttle. I hope you can understand the way I wrote this.
@@Paulman50 No, an air cooled vw should never have anything higher than 32deg at total max advance, and that goes for the 009,SVDA and DVDA... This is also referenced by VW and The Bentley Manual... Which is the VW mechanical bible... I should add I’ve been wrenching on these things for the last 30 years, so I’ve seen a thingy or so...
@@coripuckett5596 if you max out at 32°, why would you want to put a vacume advance distributer on for. Because the feature of the vacume advance distributer is to pull an extra 10° of timing on top of the static 30° timing. This is the reason for the mach between the 34pic3 carb and the vacume advance distributer.
when available, that was the thing here, you went to the supplier and had what they had , they were so cheap , you sort of accepted they fitted rubbish
Seeing this last article;e jogged my memory. Wife number 2 and I had a 69 bug. It was an A.S.S. or an automatic stick shift. Gas, brake but no clutch pedal. A slight push on the shift lever would activate a solenoid that operated the clutch. If memory serves a few 911,s were like that too. I don't think VW made them but a couple of years and I never saw another one besides the one we had. In later years I've owned 2 other Bugs a Rabbit and 3 Porsches and 2 Mercedes Benz (diesels. I love German cars!
Well maybe if the muller was made. Anyware other than China, it would have fit 100% better. Great video,I will used the distributor install part. I also had issues installing a empi type stock muffler . Had to do drill, cut etc.Thx,again !
Hey Franny quick thanks for the inspiration, with the challenges ahead I was feeling that I should sell my 1968 Type 1 but after watching your sessions made me feel that hey I shouldn't stress I should just dive in and do it. First project replace the aged exhaust (oh and fix the oil leaks, ball joints, regulator etc etc.....you know the deal). Take care and thank so much again love the videos. Laurie Tasmania Australia
Hi Frannie, I just got a new electronic ignition without vacuum advance for my 1965 Bug. I’m hoping to eliminate a flat spot, or hesitation when I’m up-shifting/accelerating, as well as improve fuel efficiency and overall performance. Wish me luck! This car has brought me to the point of wanting to throw a match in it and be done on several occasions previously. 🤞
@@JasonNaughton no, it was converted some time before I got it. My new distributor with electronic ignition is working great, it even eliminated the flat spot I had with acceleration with the old one. I still need to fine tune the timing with my timing light, but I’m pleased with it. I never know how these things will go, having been through my fair share of expensive pains in the neck with this car.
Don't know if that part was OEM or Chinese aftermarket but my experience is the same whenever having to use aftermarket products. Usually very poor quality.
Hi Franny - What a great channel you have ! Really enjoy seeing all your videos. Just thought I should mention that you ideally need one of those metal J-tube (looks like an upside down J when installed) between the vacuum canister and the carb, to stop fuel backing up into the cannister. (the fuel can damage the diaphram) They are basically just metal vacuum lines with a kink. Can send a link if you need the part. Cheers, from the UK. Regards, Jon.
You have been formally introduced to “cheap, aftermarket” mufflers for air cooled VWs! The good news is if you loosen half the bolts on the outside of the engine and cut, grind, and weld on the muffler enough, it will eventually fit and work. The bad news is these cheap mufflers are made of low quality steel and they’ll rust out quickly, so you’ll be doing the job all over again a lot sooner than you plan. Genuine German mufflers cost more but make the job a lot easier and they live longer.
Yes the 009 is not really the best choice for a stock VW Type 1 . I am running a 009 distributor with electronic ignition on my 2180cc which works very well for a big street racer motors but for a stock 69 VW i totally agree the vacuum advance distributor is they way to go ..
I read somewhere that if you're running an electronic ignitor that you can't use the conventional timing marks and you have to time it by ear? Obviously that wasn't the case with yours. So I'm wondering. I tried setting the timing on my 74 bug with what I presume is a 1600 DP and I can't get the timing marks close without the engine bogging down and running rough. If I set the distributor to where the engine sounds smooth, it'll idle great and rev just fine and it pulls good when driving it (with the exception of a little hesitation at takeoff) but the timing marks show the 7° mark to be almost an inch to the left of the case split.... This is my first time working on these and it has me really scratching my head. Also, when I shut it off it won't start back up without cranking for a bit with the throttle wide open. Once started it'll settle back to idle and sounds good and revs good. Thoughts, suggestions? I've adjusted the valves to 6 thou, changed the plugs and wires, adjusted the carb (empi pic 3) checked for vacuum leaks. HELP! LOL
What was wrong with the old muffler? It looked ok to me. I wonder who it was made by. 3:34 that’s why it doesn’t fit....”empi”.....it probably came in a blister pack ha ha ha. Walker, listeritz are ones you don’t have to drill to make fit. I bought a klokerholm and really had a time putting it on, but didn’t have to drill. Check out the inside left...drivers side of that muffler. The klockerholm ones don’t have the “Bernoulli principle “ tube. It’s build in the preheat pipe somehow inside....I don’t believe them....but it’s what they say. Some do, some don’t. Essentially it’s a tube, that the left peashooter has to be about a half inch from as it’s inserted into the muffler. This allows a vacuum to be made in the heat riser tube. Allowing the hot exhaust to circulate right to left and preheat the carb. If you have that exhaust off, take a 3/8 piece of zinc plated stranded cable, cut one end at a 45* angle, and weld its end so it won’t unfurl. Then weld the other end about an inch....3 sides, so when the welds are ground will chuck up into a cordless drill. Use the 45 degree end as a “bit” and with welding gloves on work that through the coked up heat riser tube, pray that it doesn’t bore through the the weak rusted spot....and don’t look up for you’ll get a face full of soot when drawn out. It will really run nice if the intake charge is being warmed up proper. And You ought to talk the owner into buying the correct distributor, FP, and carb. They are all available...about $800 for all through Sparkzwerkz, and whatshisname......on Samba. The carb guy.....ohhhhh...can’t remember.......Volksbitz...that’s it. That car would run like a scalded dog.....look correct,.....and...and.. You would have a customer that would need their points adjusted/ replaced. $$$ 😀😀 Thank you for the Great videos!
Dame I need your bad ass knowledge to help me with my sterling but it simple to work on not really worried but be nice to have your hands in on it because you know your stuff
Hi Everyone! In this final 1969 VW Beetle episode, I install a new muffler that goes poorly, fix that screaming fan and install a new Pertronix Flamethrower Distributor.
Enjoy!
That Timing light: amzn.to/35iSeJr
The Distributor: amzn.to/3jfPDoe
Why didn't you install muffler paste on the joints to preclude leaks?
Hi Jerry, I would have done that if need be, but, surprisingly (amazingly) there were no leaks! It was actually noticeably quieter than the one I took off (which did have a few leaks).
Alls well that ends well I suppose... F
Fran, my heat riser tubes are 100% NOT clogged, but they do not get hot. Still I bought new ones and they need a lot an Yanky Ingenuity to get them (the new ones) to fit. Should the left side heat riser gasket, or the right side, have a smaller opening than the other to get hot air flowing, or is that a sign of a failed muffler?
Normally the vacuum line between the carburettor and the vacuum canister consists of a metal tube and two short pieces of hose. The pipe has sort of an elbow with its highest point above the fuel level in the float chamber. I believe this is done so that no fuel can flow into the vacuum canister. Like the one on my ‘69 Thing: tinyurl.com/y5phplud
Hedi que no hase mejor el avance el distribuidor centrifugo que el que le instalaste al final de avance por vasio?. Saludos
You provide better explanations than anyone else on TH-cam for VW’s. Thanks for your videos.
Thanks so much!
This series is a prime example of the class and skill that is Franny! The whole work of Heidi and Franny is a great example of how to be better people! Keep up the excellent work you two.
Thanks John! You always have the sweetest comments :)
@@HeidiandFranny You both always deserve them!
Distributor timing with this type of distributor is this- set max mechanical advance with vacuum disconnected and plugged should be 28-32 BTDC. That is the most advance the distributor will provide at full throttle. Next hook up the vacuum line again and check the max advance it should be the original plus another 8-10 degrees or roughly 40BTDC. This is what the vacuum does for you while cruising part throttle which is high vacuum condition. When you floor vacuum goes down and advance goes to the full mechanical side back toy where it was max set(28-32).
3 years later your comment not only helped me to understand the specs of timing my Bug, but it helped me with the advance, even better.
Just wanted to say thank you. Thank you
Your muffler experience is exactly why I started my VW repair TH-cam channel. Poor quality parts! So frustrating! You need to send this video to Empi.
Supposedly EMPI is under new management and they were on a quest to improve the quality of their parts; which is a very welcome proposition.
Installing my new Empi muffler on a 72 Super was a real PITA too..
This is why I avoid buying Empi parts.
EMPI is crap. The hassle is not worth saving a few bucks. I enjoy your walk-throughs. Very helpful for me. I like the way you think/talk through the various VW problems. Keep up the good work.
I tend to agree ;) Thanks.
I really enjoy how you explain what you are doing, and you make everything seem much simpler than it really is. Well done as usual!
lol! Thanks!
Thanks for this video!! The way you present everything is spot on! As someone who used to own beetles 30 years ago, and now have a newly acquired 1967, your videos have been so helpful in getting my brain back into working on them! I just bought this distributor today. Thanks again!
Well over 20 yrs ago I struggled with the exhausts on Beetles and Vans, they never fitted, I 've attacked them with lump hammers, shut one side of the pipes in the vice and swung on the others. You wouldn't mind but the actual dimensions of the engines never changes, it can't be rocket science to make them using a jig?
Funny, it does change with temperature... On the 911 the engine can widen almost a quarter of an inch but the exhaust system is designed to adjust. But, yes... I'd love to see the car they used for a jig ;)
@@HeidiandFranny there isn’t a car, they are made on a dirt floor in China by a 9 year old with a spot welder and a hammer.......he has a photo in front of him for reference. And a stack of “empi” labels behind him to lick and apply.
In the next room is the blister pack operation.
So refreshing to have a really knowledgable woman doing the mechanics on Vdubs.....well done Franny ! Had my Beetle 21 years now and still love driving and working on Abraham ! Will be going over all the vids I've missed.........you're never too old to learn x
Loving the channel 👍
The commentary is perfect, no tech babble.
Franny you have a soothing voice.
You'd be great telling everyone keep calm the ship is only sinking 🤣❤🤣
Keep the videos coming.
Thanks! Will do.
Well done Franny! Persistence pays off in the end. Having owned classic Beetles over 40 years ago I really love this series.
Thanks!
I had a 1971 Volkswagen Super Beetle in this exact color with the "Automatic Stickshift" for 11 years from 1978 to 1989 and I just loved it, even though its zero to sixty time was 60 seconds! It was barely limping along by the time I sold it in 1989 for $400.00. I still wish I had a pristine beetle with that style tail lamps. (I really don't like the newer round tail-lights). I replaced my muffler during an entire engine rebuild in 1979, and I went through EXACTLY this difficulty that you are discussing here now.
My new Volkswagen is MUCH better: it is a 2017 911 Porsche Carrera S Cabriolet with the 7 speed manual in Sapphire Blue. But I still miss my 1971 Beetle!
Worked for a VW Porsche dealer in 69 and never installed a new muffler that didn’t require some prying of the manifold heater tube.
Shouldn't you be swapping out that coil for a high voltage one if you're using that flamethrower dissy?
I used the same muffler and had the same issue. I ended up using a broomstick stuck in the muffler's flange and tweaked it until it lined up. Love repro stuff! ;-)
My 16 year’s old son did that yesterday he said your explanation is the best thank you
In the late 70's I replaced the muffler on my dad's 73 superbeetle. Even back then the replacement mufflers never fit correctly. It took me an entire day in 10 degree weather to get it in. I think the complex sheetmetal was tough to get to accurately fit. A lot of bending and pounding was needed. And lots of bolts! Great work, it might be fun to find a beetle to play with.
Franny, I love watching your videos. You have got to be the best teacher/explainer/mechanic I’ve ever seen on TH-cam when it comes to our favorite little german 4 bangers! Keep up the good work, and the videos! I show your videos to my girls, too so that they know their is no stigma that girls can’t work on cars! Thanks for all you do to show that ladies are just as good, if not better at doing their own wrenching!
Oh, that's great! Thanks :)
at 11:20 as the generator is turned and one hears metal on metal....."That's awesome!" I almost fell of my chair.....summed it up nicely.
Lol!
On the new muffler slot the flanges that go to the engine. Just the top on each side. Worked best for me. Also lifted the heat riser enough to push in the gasket, a pair of channel locks.
You deserve a medal 🏅 for patience
I’d have set it on fire 🔥
Hi. Great video as always, I have a Porsche 356 so much of this is relevant. One suggestion, my old apprentice master taught me to always add some copper slip grease to the exhaust studs in the thought that the person coming along behind you to replace would thank you and sometimes it’s you and you think thank god I did this. Love the videos darlin even as a time served engineer.
Great tip! Thanks for that :)
Really excellent work, yes aftermarket exhaust/manifolds are always a work out... I don't understand why so many fabricators have both incorrect dimensions or jigs they use to manufacture. I'm sure every installer would be reworking them. The electronic distributor is sweet!.
Thanks!
Your video got me up and running with my new Flame Thrower distributor in minutes. Great video.
That's great to hear! Thanks!
hello franny,i really enjoy these beetle videos,we used to have a 1972 beetle with the 1300 cc,dual port engine,really like this car,my dad and i used to serviced ourselves,we had it for 30 yrs,very durable and practical car,rgards from the Philippines!
Best repair videos ever! She can actually articulate what she’s doing, unlike most videos, where the tech. Is umm , what’s this called again. No wasted time showing me how to remove a bolt, or ten! I can do that! Anyway, she knows her stuff. And is well prepared. Good job!
Thanks so much!
it's amazing how a couple seemingly simple jobs can go awry! I remember exhaust work on my 71 Super. What a pain! I'm glad the fan noise was relatively easy. You're right about those 009 distributors. Not great in this application. It sounded so smooth afterwards. Great job Franny.
Thanks Judy!
Yep simple turn out harder,73 beetle
That was a nice series thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
There's always that one part that should be easy but turns out to be a mission haha
Amen lol
Switch to dual carbs is the best thing a VW owner can do. Get rid of the crappy stock exhaust that have so much difficulty in getting to fit. Franny as far as caps go- both of those fit you would have to reorient the the wires,not a big deal. I cant talk many of my friends to switch to dual carbs let alone a casual viewer of classic VWs. Its a shame really. They are better in every way including gas mileage and performance. No need for a chokes either. I know many will not believe this but it is true. I live in the midwest and drive my bug in all weather unless there is salt on the road and car starts and drives without issue. Anyway always use never seize or copper grease when attaching exhaust nuts to studs or anything exhaust related.
Half the battle working with exhausts is getting things loose. As always Franny you do great work and respect the process,fun to watch. Scott
Thanks Scott. Yup, the 356 had dual carbs. The VW was designed with a different philosophy and different price point so I get it. But the 356 is easier to get to run actually. ...and no choke ;)
I always find it funny that you upload videos just AFTER I do the work on my own car 😂
My beetle had a new exhaust fitted earlier this week as well and we had similar issues. I haven't had the greatest experience with EMPI so far but boy does it sound good
It really does sound much better, so there's that I suppose ;)
Just a couple things on the distributor. First of all the correct vacuum port to run the vacuum advance is on the left side of the carburetor. The port you used has way too much vacuum. Secondly, your car has a single port intake manifold, so most likely has a 30 PICT or H30/31 carburetor. The 30 PICT carbs don’t have enough vacuum pull for the SVDA distributors. I’ve had decent performance using the H30/31 carbs with that distributor. Lastly, timing is usually done with the vacuum port disconnected and set the maximum advance for about 30 degrees. Then, reconnect the vacuum hose and let the idle timing be wherever it lands.
So many companies seem to be competing to corner the market in reproduction body panels that fit perfectly. If only they'd put the same effort in to making stock exhausts that fit 'out of the box'. I had weeks of trial and error before I got mine to fit and seal correctly. After fitting and removing the exhaust half a dozen times; I worked out the trick getting the heat riser bolts in. I found it easiest to get the front left bolt started, then the front right and then use a pipe wrench on the riser flanges to twist the risers while starting the rear bolts (again - left first, then right). The final straw was the heater pods. I had to mix and match in the end. I removed the pods from the old and new exhausts and fitted the old pods on the new one. I hope I don't have to do this again for many years though.
Hi Franny, I would love to see the owner's first drive impression and how much he appreciates the fixes you have done. I hope he will be as impressed with your detective work as all of us following you out here are.
That would have been nice. He said it was like night and day on the way home. This is a car he drives a fair bit.
@@HeidiandFranny Those of us who drive these beautiful old cars take so much for granted and just accept that that noise coming from the back or the stiff gear shifter must be 'normal' for such an old car until someone like you comes along and says, "Hang on, what's that?" Your Beetle owner is very lucky and will get many more miles of enjoyment out of his car thanks to you. Not all mechanics would have taken the time and care to get things right the way that you did. Yes, it was like night and day but many mechanics would have just adjusted the brakes and sent him back home without him ever getting to find out how good the car could be. Great work!
something changed with the static distributor timing around 21:30. You can see the vacuum can has moved into the correct position without an explanation.
I have the same type of the car vw bug '69 still running good
Thanks for the video, very informative! My son and I are working on our 69 Ghia that we saved from the car crusher 👍✌️ See you on the road 👍
very good videos I use to have a 1971 super beetle ii was fun to work with it
I think your vacuum hose should have a loop that goes above the carb and back down to the distributor. The metal oem ones did this so gas doesn’t find its was into the distributor.
Where was the empi muffler made? China or Mexico?
You’re lucky to have a car that wasn’t exposed to rust. I did my vw work in Pittsburgh and we never see heater boxes that weren’t rusted out.
I was considering an old bug to putz with in my golden years. After watching this video , I think not. Reminds me of the 68 bug I had years ago. Getting the right parts on the damn thing was impossible. But I gotta say, this women is an amazing mechanic. I suspect there’s an engineering degree laying around somewhere.
I'm sure you must get this a bunch (it's my first time watching), that is one beautiful example of a Beetle, especially in a Vert!
At a very young age I realised I had to control my temper. I did a great job until a few years ago, and then I tried putting a new muffler on my VW Westfalia. After spending hours fighting with it, I suddenly saw that I had beat it into a metal pancake with a hammer. I wish you a better outcome.
Love your videos. Take care. 🖖
I was getting there!!
I just bought my first vw, a 72 super beetle! Your videos are the best! Very informative and concise!!! Thanks!!!
Great video as usual. I know its easy to say but you should have taken that EMPI muffler back its not fit for purpose. EMPI parts are very poor but sometimes all that is available.
My goodness, I wish I had found your channel sooner. I have to assume you have teaching in your background. If not, you missed your calling. Of course, your filming and editing are top shelf also.
I am almost done phase one of rebuilding my Former Wife's MG-TD replica on a Ghia chassis. I have worked on cars my entire life but never a VW. They are a different bird.
It began as rewiring it but quickly morphed to much more as the projects always do.
I am about to change over to the complete Flameflrower system. This video was invaluable with your expertise. I will go back to watch the entire series in order to see how many mistakes I may have made.
Phase two is a complete frame off and painting next winter. Right now I am attempting to complete my latest Jeep project. That I know in-depth!
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge so completely.
Peace be with you always.
Thanks Jake! That sounds like quite the project. Good luck :) It is going to be amazing!
hopefully do a follow up video to correct some things. Vac line connected to wrong port. No steel line with upward bend. Timing setting way too high etc. Thanks
Great editing on the timing adjustments!
Thanks! Always a tough thing because it lasts about a single frame!
Greetings from Japan. Thanks for the ideal useful information for my 67 bug. Also your English sounds so clear and beautiful!
I would expect the muffler install to be a simple job: couple of bolts, seals, a bracket, but I wasn't expecting this for sure. That fan belt is really close to the bolt on the distributor, you have to be really careful. It reminds me of a mechanic who was working on the Volvo Penta MD7A in my dad's boat while it was running. The mechanic ended up in the emergency room. Luckily they were able to save his finger. Looking forward to the work on the 911 :)
I dread muffler work... Either they don't come off (like the 911) or they don't go on (like the Beetle) or both ;) Always scary adjusting the engine while running. I do that once and then statically after that. I did finally have my hair back though ;)
GOOD JOB 👌.
I have built 100s of vw engines and the other time I rum a vacuum pull dizzy is on automatic/autostick buses,type 3 or bugs
Don't worry about "putting too much stress on the intake manifold..." Just throw a couple of valiums into the the gas tank and it'll be okay!
Please add a metal tube between the vacuum advanced and the carburetor. Like vw did. Videos are available on how to do it.
The car is gone, but I'll mention it to the owner. Thanks!
You do a great job explaining everything! I love the VW videos.
I think you have connected the vacuum line to wrong port on that carburetor. The port where it is now connected is for DVDA distributor retard function.
The vacuum advance connection for SVDA is the one above the idle mixture adjustment screws on the left side of the carburetor.
Please look at:
www.volkzbitz.com/34pict-3---4-and-h30-31-adjustments.html
This person is correct.
Yes I saw that also, and she retweeked the timing after the vacume line was hooked in. The reason the timing was different was probably because the vacume advance was nudging it. Cruising at maximum vacume it should pull about 40°.
Electronic dizzy will leave you on the side of the road. I prefer stock. Going slowly out of tune is better. Tune up every 3,000 miles is part of the fun!
Bless your heart! (A small milling machine could have cleaned those muffler flanges up, and a TIG welder to re-align...)
Always love watching work being done on our beloved aircooled beauties. Exhaust work can be exhausting. Yeah, someone had to say it. I like how someone mentioned the vacuum advance shepherds crook thingy below. I have yet to find or fab one so I used a longer hose and looped it up and through the air cleaner clamp. Seems to work.
That's a good idea!
Extremely well explained, you are real great pedagogues.
Hmmm, since you are using that word by definition, what is it that makes you believe that as an instructor, I am strict?
Really nice work. I always enjoy the quality of your videos and the wonderful explanations that accompany them.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for the advise.. I'm about to replace my 1954 single tip muffler on my Bug.
I really hope you have a better time than I... Good luck :)
The rotor button should be pointing to the number 1 position on the distributor cap when the number 1 piston is at top dead center (on the compression stroke). The pistons come up two times during the combustion cycle. Once for the exhaust stroke and again on the compression stroke. The mechanical ignition timing should be set so that the rotor hits the corresponding cylinder on the compression stroke to ignite the air/fuel mixture.
just replaced my exhaust on my 75 beetle with a empi GT exhaust didnt fit gaskets were rubbish had to use a bottle jack to make it fit nice chrome but i am expecting it to rust quite soon.still it was fun and you have to be patient
Franny, 36 degrees is too much timing on that engine, 32 degrees is usually the safest you would want to run.. anything more than that you could burn holes in tops of pistons.
I bet you are right... When I got the car originally it was set to 40deg. Probably should tone it back a tad.
Times two. I usually run mine at at no more than 30 degrees max otherwise it’s easy to burn valves and pistons.
The extra 10° of advance only comes in with full vacume, e.g. cruising with very little throttle. When cruising the carb is running lean which makes the power piont of the combustion late. Hence at 40° advance the power part of the stroke will be 30 to 32°. That is why the motor will not ping at 40° advanced on low throttle. I hope you can understand the way I wrote this.
@@Paulman50 No, an air cooled vw should never have anything higher than 32deg at total max advance, and that goes for the 009,SVDA and DVDA... This is also referenced by VW and The Bentley Manual... Which is the VW mechanical bible... I should add I’ve been wrenching on these things for the last 30 years, so I’ve seen a thingy or so...
@@coripuckett5596 if you max out at 32°, why would you want to put a vacume advance distributer on for. Because the feature of the vacume advance distributer is to pull an extra 10° of timing on top of the static 30° timing.
This is the reason for the mach between the 34pic3 carb and the vacume advance distributer.
I have better luck with the ERNST german brand when they are available
when available, that was the thing here, you went to the supplier and had what they had , they were so cheap , you sort of accepted they fitted rubbish
Well I did a few beetle muflers in the past, and don't spend too much money on original muflers becouse they always give you a ficht before theyre on
LOL DANG, I think that car lives there! If it wasnt for that car you wouldnt have half of your content.. EXCELLENT quality video
I wasn't sure I'd like your videos, but I'm impressed. Nice work. Edit: Your install of this distributor is better explained than any other I've seen.
if you forget the firing order , where the oil/generator stand meets the block has it embossed on it.
My kind of lady. Your mechanical skills are amazing. 😅
I really like the concept, very easy to understand! Keep it up, I like it.🤔
Another great video! I’m also working on a 69 Beetle on my channel 👍
Oh, this episode took me back to working on my 1969 Bug (John Muir's guide was invaluable). Good times!
I always like seeing the yellow bug!!! Those cars are fun to own!
Seeing this last article;e jogged my memory. Wife number 2 and I had a 69 bug. It was an A.S.S. or an automatic stick shift. Gas, brake but no clutch pedal. A slight push on the shift lever would activate a solenoid that operated the clutch. If memory serves a few 911,s were like that too. I don't think VW made them but a couple of years and I never saw another one besides the one we had. In later years I've owned 2 other Bugs a Rabbit and 3 Porsches and 2 Mercedes Benz (diesels. I love German cars!
Great job on the VW series. 👍👍
Thanks! 👍
You should have a "top loop" on the vacuum line. Made with metal line making a upside down U.
Buen trabajo. Apreciamos tu arduo trabajo. Los vochos son un poco latosos.
¡Gracias!
Well maybe if the muller was made. Anyware other than China, it would have fit 100% better. Great video,I will used the distributor install part. I also had issues installing a empi type stock muffler . Had to do drill, cut etc.Thx,again !
Hey Franny quick thanks for the inspiration, with the challenges ahead I was feeling that I should sell my 1968 Type 1 but after watching your sessions made me feel that hey I shouldn't stress I should just dive in and do it. First project replace the aged exhaust (oh and fix the oil leaks, ball joints, regulator etc etc.....you know the deal). Take care and thank so much again love the videos. Laurie Tasmania Australia
You are an inspiration. I am so happy I found your channel. Can’t wait to learn more.
Hi Frannie, I just got a new electronic ignition without vacuum advance for my 1965 Bug. I’m hoping to eliminate a flat spot, or hesitation when I’m up-shifting/accelerating, as well as improve fuel efficiency and overall performance. Wish me luck! This car has brought me to the point of wanting to throw a match in it and be done on several occasions previously. 🤞
Is your car still 6v?
@@JasonNaughton no, it was converted some time before I got it.
My new distributor with electronic ignition is working great, it even eliminated the flat spot I had with acceleration with the old one. I still need to fine tune the timing with my timing light, but I’m pleased with it. I never know how these things will go, having been through my fair share of expensive pains in the neck with this car.
I really like to keep some PTFE on hand for stuff that comes dry but needs lube.
Great job. I don’t even have a VW 😀
Don't know if that part was OEM or Chinese aftermarket but my experience is the same whenever having to use aftermarket products. Usually very poor quality.
Good job...runs well....
By far the best vid on this topic. Ty so much
I’m going to check out this distributor.
Hi Franny - What a great channel you have ! Really enjoy seeing all your videos. Just thought I should mention that you ideally need one of those metal J-tube (looks like an upside down J when installed) between the vacuum canister and the carb, to stop fuel backing up into the cannister. (the fuel can damage the diaphram) They are basically just metal vacuum lines with a kink. Can send a link if you need the part. Cheers, from the UK. Regards, Jon.
Thanks for the tip! I'll pass it on to the owner.
great videos 👍love the vw stuff 😍 thank you for the help & motivation i need to work on my beetle 👍😍
Happy to help!
You make it look easy I think I can do a few things thanks for the help.
you should check the ohms rating of your coil petronix is very picky ,i have seen those things melt down with the wrong coil
You have been formally introduced to “cheap, aftermarket” mufflers for air cooled VWs! The good news is if you loosen half the bolts on the outside of the engine and cut, grind, and weld on the muffler enough, it will eventually fit and work. The bad news is these cheap mufflers are made of low quality steel and they’ll rust out quickly, so you’ll be doing the job all over again a lot sooner than you plan. Genuine German mufflers cost more but make the job a lot easier and they live longer.
This is a friend's car and he purchased the muffler. If it was me I would have spent a bit more on a more legit muffler ;)
Absolutely superb. Thank you very much for such a clear explanation and helpful video. Genuinely learnt something today!
Yes the 009 is not really the best choice for a stock VW Type 1 . I am running a 009 distributor with electronic ignition on my 2180cc which works very well for a big street racer motors but for a stock 69 VW i totally agree the vacuum advance distributor is they way to go ..
I'm running vacuum advance on my 1776 and 1915 CC with Dual Dellortos , drivability for street is better than 009
You are the best out there!
Good job lady !
I read somewhere that if you're running an electronic ignitor that you can't use the conventional timing marks and you have to time it by ear?
Obviously that wasn't the case with yours. So I'm wondering. I tried setting the timing on my 74 bug with what I presume is a 1600 DP and I can't get the timing marks close without the engine bogging down and running rough. If I set the distributor to where the engine sounds smooth, it'll idle great and rev just fine and it pulls good when driving it (with the exception of a little hesitation at takeoff) but the timing marks show the 7° mark to be almost an inch to the left of the case split.... This is my first time working on these and it has me really scratching my head. Also, when I shut it off it won't start back up without cranking for a bit with the throttle wide open. Once started it'll settle back to idle and sounds good and revs good. Thoughts, suggestions?
I've adjusted the valves to 6 thou, changed the plugs and wires, adjusted the carb (empi pic 3) checked for vacuum leaks. HELP! LOL
What was wrong with the old muffler? It looked ok to me. I wonder who it was made by.
3:34 that’s why it doesn’t fit....”empi”.....it probably came in a blister pack ha ha ha.
Walker, listeritz are ones you don’t have to drill to make fit.
I bought a klokerholm and really had a time putting it on, but didn’t have to drill.
Check out the inside left...drivers side of that muffler.
The klockerholm ones don’t have the “Bernoulli principle “ tube. It’s build in the preheat pipe somehow inside....I don’t believe them....but it’s what they say.
Some do, some don’t.
Essentially it’s a tube, that the left peashooter has to be about a half inch from as it’s inserted into the muffler. This allows a vacuum to be made in the heat riser tube.
Allowing the hot exhaust to circulate right to left and preheat the carb.
If you have that exhaust off, take a 3/8 piece of zinc plated stranded cable, cut one end at a 45* angle, and weld its end so it won’t unfurl.
Then weld the other end about an inch....3 sides, so when the welds are ground will chuck up into a cordless drill.
Use the 45 degree end as a “bit” and with welding gloves on work that through the coked up heat riser tube, pray that it doesn’t bore through the the weak rusted spot....and don’t look up for you’ll get a face full of soot when drawn out.
It will really run nice if the intake charge is being warmed up proper.
And
You ought to talk the owner into buying the correct distributor, FP, and carb. They are all available...about $800 for all through Sparkzwerkz, and whatshisname......on Samba. The carb guy.....ohhhhh...can’t remember.......Volksbitz...that’s it.
That car would run like a scalded dog.....look correct,.....and...and..
You would have a customer that would need their points adjusted/ replaced. $$$ 😀😀
Thank you for the Great videos!
Dame I need your bad ass knowledge to help me with my sterling but it simple to work on not really worried but be nice to have your hands in on it because you know your stuff